Reddit mentions: The best air tool fittings

Something like this sliding plate wall mount (but smaller) would work really well.

Then you could use command strips to attach the mounting bracket to the wall in both rooms and easily slide the station on in either of the two locations.

I can't find anything similar but smaller unfortunately.

Edit 1: This type of faster is called a 'keyhole hanger'. I haven't found quite the perfect thing, but I'll keep an eye out.

Edit 2: One of these or these might do the trick. You'd have to mount on the side of the base station, but it'd be pretty secure and easily swap-able!

Edit 3: Ahah! These seem about as close as it's going to get.

I have one like this, too. It was inspired by DIY inflation but I haven't used caulk or anything permanent (yet).

The nipples I'm using don't entirely match up, so there is a bit of gapping depending on which way/order I stack them (turned inside-out or not, too).

Since I didn't fill them, they can collapse which reduces the holding power (depending on how much skin is between them).

Anyway, up until this week I have just had a catheter stuck in the end and used a binder clip to hold pressure (inflating by using my mouth). It works well enough but not when dressed (clothing pushes the catheter a bit which allows leakage). But it is lightweight and simple.

I had been envisioning your method for some time and decided to try it out. At first, I tried a Presta valve since there isn't a spring to push against and the inside pressure creates the seal. Well, the pressure I can create isn't enough to get the valve to seal well so it leaks. I have a valve stem so I tried that and it's much better.

I found out that inside-out or not matters due to the swirl ridges against the valve stem.

I am using a Schrader ball chuck on a quick connect and a hose (part of a catheter (the larger end that goes on a bag—perfect fit) and some random hose I stretched over the catheter). Side note: I don't think the hose needs to be special (food grade), just anything clean enough that I'm willing to put in my mouth. You can buy various size hoses by the foot at hardware stores.

Since I don't have caulk to support the nipple, it's easily deformed. When I put the ball chuck on, it needs pressure to both open the seal in it and push down the spring in the Schrader valve. I can't firmly hold the assembly because then there isn't a seal. Holding the valve stem is really difficult (normally, there is a tire/rim for resistance).

The ball chuck is heavier than I realized and with the hose, it's a fair bit to have in a pocket.

What do you recommend?

A few things typically break shortly after you start using one of these.. the biggest pain, and it's not even a printed part, is rewiring the bed so they don't rub on the hole going into the base.


Printed parts, I print an extra extruder arm and baseplate (part on top of the tower that feeds filament. This breaks second. I'll find the file I like to use, it's hard to find on thingiverse for some reason. WK7 has one, but it's not as tight and gives space for flexible filament to bend. Further you'll need, at least one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WE1A3D2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and send me a self addressed stamped envelope and 1 dollar and i'll send you one. IM for an address.


Height spacer for when you get fed up with a warped print bed and move to glass.


There are a few options for each one, if you want links I can provide you the ones I like. It's sometimes funner to see what's available and play with the options yourself.

Playa Shower

Instead of using a standard solar shower which

• needs to be hung up above your head
  
• has an annoying valve that's difficult to use with one hand
  
  Use a Garden sprayer (one gallon is sufficient but two might be a bit better) with the misting sprayer replaced with a kitchen sink sprayer.
  
  To make this cut the sprayer itself off the garden sprayer hose.
  Use a 1/4 inch male MIP to 1/4 inch barb fitting to connect the two.
  
  You may or may not wish to use a solar shower bag for heating the water. Black pots and pans work as well or you can just heat a few cups of water to boiling on the stove and add it to a gallon of desert temperature water.
  
  With this I can take complete showers with less than one gallon of water (including washing and conditioning long hair) since I only use water explicitly where and when it's needed. If you want to be more efficient still, shower with a friend, since they can see and rinse your back with less water (or at least that's the excuse I use).
  
  Fountain Pump
  
  Use a small fountain pump to transfer your melt water from your cooler to whatever you're storing your shower water in. This is almost the only way of getting cooler water directly into a shower bag without spilling lots of it. You'll also need some 1/4" inside diameter hose but it's easiest to just buy 4 feet of that at home depot rather than buying a roll of it somewhere online.
  
  Electric
  
  My camp has a generator and a space for charging batteries. But I don't like leaving my chargers or devices out where they are going to be playafied. So I use a small 12v battery (8Ah is fine, I use 18Ah batteries because that's what I have) and either a small inverter or just use car chargers for all of my devices. Then I just have my 12v battery charger out in the open and most of those are designed for harsher environments and when that's charged I take it into my tent to charge my camera batteries and the like.

Oh yeah, there's that bit of caveat though. The comp I linked to is more for general hardware use (which is kinda a good thing since it's meant for more robust work and can take the beating). So it uses a Quick-Detach pneumatic connector. You will need an adapter for it. Also the system, while it does have a regulator, does not come with a moisture trap so I ended up getting one of these. You can direct plug it with the adapter but I ended up using another airbrush hose that way I can snake the new regulator moisture trap closer to my airbrush station so I can manipulate PSI on the fly. All in all yeah, that's about another $30 in cost.

So I guess a Master is good enough for a starter comp as it is pretty much plug and go but the Senco I alluded to would probably be a good next level comp to take if you ever get tired of the Master Brand.

You can fix the threaded side by replacing the tape, but there's not much you can do if the plug side is leaking other than replacing them. How many fittings are you dealing with? It might be an expensive investment, but having a solid system with no leaks is worth it. It might also be worth looking into high flow fittings. The Milton fittings are great, but I'd argue these particular HF fittings are better. Most of the other HF fittings feel cheap and loose and many of them tend to leak, but these '3/8"' (they're still 1/4") fittings are really solid and feel better made than their standard 1/4" fittings. The only issue would be compatibility if you borrow tools or lend yours out. In that case, you'd need to make an adapter for each scenario with a standard fitting.

Milton S-217 1/4" NPT V Style Coupler and Plug Kit - 6 Piece
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O2ZGQ6/

1/4 In. x 3/8 In. Automotive Series Coupler and Plug Kit 4 Pc
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/fittings/14-in-x-38-in-automotive-series-coupler-and-plug-kit-4-pc-68187.html

Alright! I was able to google it from your links and found it on a bunch of other places easy to get, like Amazon.es! Thank you!

do you mean this:
http://www.amazon.com/Mattress-Support-Fasteners-female-pieces/dp/B001DSXCPS/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1382676361&sr=8-6&keywords=Bed+hardware

or

This:
http://www.amazon.com/Platte-River-Hardware-Furniture-Fasteners/dp/B008GWNN80/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1382676361&sr=8-5&keywords=Bed+hardware

That's the extent of the bed hardware I've seen . . . honestly don't see the need for the center support hardware (although I'm sure someone could dream up a design that required it.

I had this happen to me too and these worked out beautifully. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WE1A3D2/ref=gp_aw_ybh_a_46?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KZ034DRXZ93250TN11CA comes in a ten pack too which is great

Hello, i have just purchased an Air Compressor ( [this bad boy] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00E9AMC2G) ) and i have a hose to connect to it ( [Hose] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01LY0LD13) ) but they do not connect, the Compressor has a quick release valve, so i must need an adaptor to pair them, is this the right one for what i want? ( [adaptor] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-25832-Standard-Coupling-Adaptor/dp/B0001K9REO) )

thanks in advance :)

Valve Extensions

Those are plastic ones but work great!

> Obviously the run current is way out of spec, but I don't know what would cause this.

Two things come to mind:

1. If the water supply line is somehow becoming intermittently blocked, that could cause overloading. Not sure how that would happen, though, I'd say a problem at the pump is more likely.

2. Your might be over-drawing. Your pump expects to be submerged and water-cooled, if the water draws down too far it spins free, you get no water, and it overheats. This is often accompanied by muddy water, but not necessarily. Most townships have public well logs, so you might check if you have the shallowest well in the area, and ask around if anyone at a similar depth has had issues.

If you have a bypass valve or slip joint at the pump head, open it and turn on the pump to see if there's any difference without the tank and lines in play. The more you can isolate the problem, the better.

I might also try powering everything down and "snaking" with 65 feet of wire just to see if I hit anything before calling for the pump to be pulled.

I'm sure this isn't officially recommended, but personally I would also try using an air/water fitting, something like this, shut everything down-stream, and blow the pump line out backwards, regulated to no more than 55 psi. If that helped, it would mean you've got some crap pulled into your pump and it's just going to happen again, but the pump itself might be ok.

Just pulling the pump and putting it back will probably cost a few hundred dollars in labor and new pipe. A ten-year warranty is not uncommon for a pump like that, though, so you might get a break if you have to replace it and can find the info. Otherwise, expect maybe $3-500 for a new ~10gpm pump.

Okay, just to confirm; http://www.amazon.com/Tru-Flate-21-123-Male-Hose-Fitting/dp/B000CFNVGS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376790166&sr=8-1&keywords=1%2F4%22+barb for the barb?

The chamber says it comes with (2) Brass Barb that Fits 1/4” ID Hose. I just want to make sure I'm getting absolutely all the right things I need to connect. It looks like the pump that I linked, a Yellow Jacket Ritchie 93560 has a 1/4" and 3/8" male flare intakes, so I think I would need something else.

for the lazy

https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/inline-blow-gun/A-p8809055e

I can see how that might get in the way, so this might be better

https://www.amazon.com/Coilhose-Pneumatics-CoBlo-Coupler-Blow/dp/B07D2LP8ZC/ref=pd_bxgy_2/144-1465503-7701320?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07D2LP8ZC&pd_rd_r=74bc03c6-5982-11e9-8b21-c1cc28e5a00b&pd_rd_w=Sx8Uh&pd_rd_wg=Bv3WQ&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=FRJDTM0RE7TEXRNV3ZS5&psc=1&refRID=FRJDTM0RE7TEXRNV3ZS5

probably not as much of a focused stream, but good enough for clearing shavings off a workpiece.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Brass-Connect-Aids-Removal-36143/dp/B002XL2IEA

This is the adapter I have. It hooks up to the quick connect hose I have on my 5 gallon air compressor. I don’t know if a plug in will work with it, just a heads up.

Also’ make sure you blow out the toilet. I have a friend that didn’t once and it cracked the valve.

For you guys at home shops or businesses with a smaller air compressor look into high flow fittings. I couldn’t get the pinion nut loose and changed my fittings to high flow and it came right off. Blew my mind the difference it made and it’s compatible with existing fittings. I’ve changed all of mine over.

Home Depot has them but this is a much better deal. High Flow Fittings They were cheaper when I got them @ $15 or so.

Another option are these if you just want to try it out. High Flow Fittings

This is exactly what I needed! Thank you I'm more of a visual person so this is perfect! what do you think about using this to depress the valve? I could drill it but I feel this impairs it's integrity.

people avoid putting antifreeze in the fresh tank because the taste is hard to wash out. personally i don't consume any of the water from inside my camper; however, IMO it just takes sometime to run enough water though to get the taste out. the other problem is you might get away with a gallon or 2 if you use the bypass where as you'll need 5 or 6 if you pour it in the fresh water tank.

i see there is some advice about blowing out the water rather than using antifreeze. I can tell you from experience that it's possible to be blowing zero water out of the outlets and still have water in the lines that will freeze and can cause leaks. when I lived in a colder climate, I did both... first blow out everything i can with something like this

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-36153-Brass-Blow-Plug/dp/B0006IX68O

then add antifreeze to the fresh water tank and turn the pump on to circulate it. getting to where some of those fittings are (which seems to be where splits happen) is too much work for how relatively cheap rv antifreeze is.

your other alternative is to move somewhere that you don't need to winterize your camper... that's what i did!

Can you recommend any?
Will this barb & tubing be compatible?

-Barb:
http://www.amazon.com/Tru-Flate-21-123-Male-Hose-Fitting/dp/B000CFNVGS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1369779764&sr=8-2&keywords=1%2F4+barb


-Tubing:
http://www.amazon.com/Watts-SVEB20-Pre-Cut-Diameter-0-170-Inch/dp/B0046ECKWC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1369779659&sr=8-3&keywords=1%2F4+inch+tubing

Something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Interstate-Pneumatics-SS320-Converts-Paintball/dp/B00VAPPHYS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468686351&sr=8-1

Why not just ditch the sodastream junk completely?

i think most revisions use an M6 coupler

useful to keep around, I used some to make dryboxes.

Wiki is: http://mpselectmini.com/

Some items I bought from Amazon (don't buy the hot end pieces if you have a V2. They changed the hot end to an all metal one):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WE1A3D2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T2DNKJY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LAYCRAA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4UXQ42/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
V
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MQKW230/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A81FXMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ACIFPYA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought 10 for ~$7 on amazon JIUWU Pneumatic Air Straight Fitting 4mm thread M6 One touch hose Connector Pack of 10 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WE1A3D2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Ex8VNlMxPNHxG

That would work, you'll just have to be careful that you've still got enough length on the tube that you don't choke up the filament path when the X axis is all the way out.

Here's a link for replacement fittings.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WE1A3D2

This is for extra PFTE tubing
https://www.amazon.com/Meters-Filament-3D-printer-Rostock/dp/B00THZKC8Y

I use a couple of these these with my iConnect. Makes it a little bit easier to throw on gauges for vacuum or charging. If I'm really lazy I charge straight from the tank into the true-suction port with a ball valve hose.

If it won't lock in again then replace it. Someone on here suggested these to me: JIUWU Pneumatic Air Straight Fitting 4mm thread M6 One touch hose Connector Pack of 10 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WE1A3D2

They work and don't require any new printed parts, and prime shipping means they show up fast.

JIUWU Pneumatic Air Straight Fitting 4mm thread M6 One touch hose Connector Pack of 10 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WE1A3D2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gBlACbGT9J0X4

It could be a lot simpler. Just from a couple of minutes looking.

Not a bike inflator CO2 canister

Adapter to NPT (could just go into the paint gun at this point)

Pneumatic momentary valve (to be used as a trigger if you didn't want the paint gun part)

With all NPT you can hack these things together in all sorts of configurations and have a much wider array of connection options.

I didn't really shop around for good deals or think too hard about this, so the prices might not be the best and there could be an even better way to do it. Even with that disclaimer, it would be a much more legit and solid piece than what is in the video.

you could always try one of these don't know what pressure they are rated at. also if you just buy this blowgun it has 1/8" threads on it's output. the same company also has model # b310 and b500 with the same feature. from there adapting up to 1/4 should be a cinch.

Do yourself a favor and spend seven bucks and do it the right way. It will even save you a bunch of time.

Buy this product:

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Brass-Connect-Aids-Removal-36143/dp/B002XL2IEA

Drain your tanks. Leave the drains open, open all of your faucets, hook this up and run ~40-50 psi compressed air through your lines for about 5 minutes. Disconnect, leave the faucets and drains open, pour a little antifreeze down each drain so it's in the P traps, and you're done. There is absolutely no need to go so overboard, and you're wasting a bunch of time.

These
The female portion springs closed until you connect the male portion.

https://www.amazon.com/Milton-S-451-Plastic-Valve-Extension/dp/B000COS0OC

https://www.amazon.com/PalaQi-Accessory-Compressor-Fitinngs-Inflation/dp/B07DXKJ5CQ/

You'd connect a gadget like in the link below to your city water connection. No it won't clear your freshwater tank as that will have its own drain.

Camco Blow Out Plug With Brass Quick Connect-Aids In Removal of Water From Water Lines (36143) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XL2IEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DTbYDb4CT1YXS

Here's a low profile one

The blue-topped connector is a fitting that connects to a lock-washer-looking piece of garbage that sits just inside the extruder case. If you unscrew the top of the extruder case, you should see that the lock-washer-thing has shattered, which means the connector can't keep the tube held in place. On another extruder, you'd be able to swap out this shit plastic fastener with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WE1A3D2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
But this won't work with the stock extruder casing because there's no threading to screw it into. If you were able to drill your own threading or swap out the plastic bit that broke, you'd be all set. Otherwise, you need a new extruder case and you might as well swap out all the parts with cheap metal versions that won't break down.

I agree with troubleshooting, a lot of times sediment from the water heater will get kicked up and clog a line.

The fact that you have cold pressure but not hot eliminates the shower head and shower hose as culprits. That leaves the hot water line itself and the hot side of the faucet.

The first thing I would do is switch the hot and cold on the back of the faucet and see if you get full pressure from the hot line when it's connected to the cold side of the faucet, that would indicate that the problem is in the faucet itself.

If that doesn't work I would follow the hot line as far as you can to be sure it's not kinked anywhere. If it's not I would drain all the water from the RV through the low points, remove the line from the shower faucet side, bypass the water heater, close the low points, and blow the line out through your city water with compressed air with something like this.

Edit: have someone with a bucket at the detached shower line, it'll make a huge mess if it's not directed into the shower.