Reddit mentions: The best automotive oil filters & accessories

One thing that helps is having a driveway with a little privacy, and no homeowner's association that won't prevent you from doing oil changes and tire rotations on your car.

Husky and Craftsman tools are ok: http://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Mechanics-36220-Newest-Version/dp/B00F1WPCEG/ref=pd_sim_sbs_328_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=51O7n-Tt4mL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0GZXKZTCM0RPZKMW48D2

You can just buy tools individually on amazon if you can't afford the whole tool kit.

Here's a huge guide for the tools needed for working on Subarus: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f62/what-tools-buy-work-my-subaru-127475/

And some rhino ramps, wheel chocks, and jack stands: http://www.amazon.com/gp/registry/wishlist/199GQ6N13H6N0/ref=cm_wl_huc_view

For oil changes, you should order yourself a 6-pack of genuine WRX oil filters with crush washers off amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Subaru-Oil-Filters-Washers-Pack/dp/B007NLQO0O/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458339681&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=subaru+wrx+oil+filter+and+crush+washer

Buy your fully synthetic oil at walmart. Auto parts stores will rip you off on oil.

Dealerships are expensive for general maintenance but useful for doing comprehensive checkups for the maintenance intervals. The maintenance intervals are pretty standard general maintenance every 5k miles.

you'll want some RTV to reseal the cases. honda brand is honda-bond I believe.

some engine assembly lube is good too for the cam and other parts until it gets running and oiled properly again.

If you're taking apart the head, (Actually the tool is needed for reassembly only, to turn/compress the torsion springs into place) there's a special tool honda made to turn the torsion springs that hold the valves in. I just cut a notch in a socket, another guy just put a wrench on it to turn it.

I will also say that the 500t engine is essentially identical to the CB450 engine, and the CB450 service manual is a fantastic service manual. I would recommend you use that to rebuild the 500t engine. All the 500t manuals I found were pretty poor manuals in comparison.

timing gun isn't entirely needed on these bikes if your spark advance works properly, i've found static timing a bit easier for me, but I know my advance works properly.

you'll also need a chain breaker tool for the very long cam chain in the engine, as it has to come off to remove the head. I used a slightly modified bicycle chain tool, as it's much smaller than purpose built ones and I found it easier to use.

When I lapped my valves, the suction cup tool thing they sell was a pain to use. I wound up sticking a rubber vacuum hose around the end of the valve and used that to spin/ move the valve. worked well.

make sure the seal/gasket kit you get has the rubber cylinders for the oil galleys. when I rebuilt mine a few years ago some kits didn't have them.

finally, there is a special socket needed to remove the oil slinger from the end of the crank shaft. You probably won't have to remove it, so you probably won't need it. here is one on amazon. I just bought myself a cheap socket and ground it down to the right shape.

EDIT: changed a couple things.

Yeah, turbo failures on the XTs aren't uncommon and can cause a total engine failure when they blow. Have fun, give her all she's got every once in a while, but don't rag the engine out, and stay on top of those oil changes with full synthetic. Your manual will say 7,000 miles but Subaru amended it to be 3,750 miles after seeing a lot of turbo failures. If you're mechanically inclined, do it yourself and save $40-$50. I bought a six pack of Subaru filters on Amazon for $35 or so and a pack of crush rings for the oil drain plug. I might get one of those Fumoto drain plugs one day, but they make me a little nervous. I used to use Castrol GTX Edge, but recently switched over to Shell's Rotella T6 5W-40. It's a heavier weight engine oil, but I live in the south and it's within summer temp weights for our car most of the year. A lot of Subaru drivers use Rotella T6. Even though it's labelled for diesel engines, you won't hurt your car.

Here's a link to the oil filters and crush rings

Also, as another user stated, be sure to remove the filter on that banjo bolt for the oil feed line to the turbo. They get clogged and will starve the turbo of oil, killing it pretty quickly.

Congrats again on the new car. I love mine. She's at 200k miles now, and I'm hoping to get another 50k out of her.

Not sure these are the right ones, but a good example of the prices you can find in bulk, I usually get them from an actual Subaru dealership that sells online. Sure it's a bit of upfront cost, but I know I always have them available. I keep oil on hand at all times too, every time I dump my used oil I buy the same amount of new oil. One Saturday it turned out all three Subarus needed oil changes soon, so I said "screw it" and just did them all, took about 45 minutes to an hour since I had everything ready.

https://amazon.com/2011-2018-Case15208AA15A-Geniuine-Impreza-Forester/dp/B071LN66J8/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=subaru+oil+filter&qid=1563294076&s=gateway&sr=8-15

I like these filters. Meets all OEM specs, fits for a forester, and has a check valve.

Plus a super tiny secondary filter to ensure that the oil is clean.

Filter

I think he just means that it's not the canister type that has the metal housing around it, some cars use the paper internals only and have a plastic or metal housing for it on the car itself. So the Fiat 500 just takes the pleated paper filter portion (that looks like the inside of the canister kind). It looks like this so it drips a lot more than the type that's in a metal canister.

This isn't really uncommon though, it's super popular on European cars.

• Dogbone insert.
  
• Replace any non-LED with LED bulbs.
  
• Change color of LED bulbs for interior (i.e. I got red footwell LEDs)
  
• Clubsport S Center Caps (have a red ring around them)
  
• Tint (find a shop that does triangle windows w/o removing trim or charging extra)
  
• New tires
  
• New lightweight wheels (something flow formed - Neuspeed/Konig/etc)
  
• Add a rear lip/spoiler
  
• Hardwire a dash cam (highly recommend this) or radar detector.
  
• Drop in panel air filter like AFe DryFlo/Remove snow catcher in intake
  
• Automatic hatch pop kit (USP's kit is best), though they're sort of meh and require extra force to close.
  
• OBDEleven
  
  Some would say JB4. I would fall into that group since it is removable before any necessary dealer visits.
  
  Invest in oil change supplies because it's so simple on this car and you can save yourself a good bit of money vs paying someone. Buy some things in bulk and you won't have to worry about not having them when the time comes and you'll save some cash. I have 2 MK7s and by doing this, my changes cost me about $30-35/ea and take me about 20 minutes, which is less time than most people will spend driving to the dealership.
  
  
• Fluid Extractor or catch pan.
  
• 4 Pack of Plugs Replacement oil pan plugs if you're doing catch pan drain method vs extractor.
  
• 3-pack VW Genuine oil filters
  
• Mobil1 0w-40 VW502.00 Spec Motor oil rebate is ongoing through October. You can get 10L for about $24 give or take. Walmart has them for $22.xx per 5L jug. NAPA also recently had singles for $5/ea, may still be ongoing.

Good luck! Oh also, you can pick up OEM oil filters off of amazon for pretty cheap too.

https://www.amazon.com/2015-2016-Volkswagen-Filter-Replacements-GENUINE/dp/B00LMGORXC

I also use Mobil 1 5W-30, but I use Purolator PL14610 PureONE Oil Filters. They're a little longer than stock, but I like them.

And I definitely recommend getting a magnetic drain plug.

Amazon FTW. It took me about 10 seconds to find this.

Fleetguard LF16035 Oil Filter for Dodge Ram Cummins Engines Diesel (2 Packs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZ8WRW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-LvQCbKPZW38M

That’s a great price for two filters and you get Prime shipping.

First oil change can be early. SOA doesn't mention it but dealers do offer it at varying intervals. I'm in FL and my dealer offered to do it at 1k after the break in period.

I'm doing my own changes and did the first one at 3k and second at 6k to get me back on track. Pretty easy to do on these engines and total cost is about $30: $23 for the oil and $8 for OEM filter, the latter you can probably get a little cheaper from other sites or possibly the dealer.

Thanks, and I’m using a Mishimoto catch can. I had to drill 2 small holes to mount it, it was pretty easy to install.

I buy my Valvoline 0W-20 on Amazon, usually around $20 for a 5-qt jug. I ended up with a Subaru dealer coupon and bought a case of oil filters to keep on hand, but Amazon has those too.

I couldn't tell if you if I'm getting the best deal around but between Prime and their Chase card, it works for me. Never seen them out of stock either.

Jesus. That's terrible. Don't go to a dealer.


https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-15208AA15A-Oil-Filter/dp/B00I798FIA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484523047&sr=8-1&keywords=crosstrek+oil+filter

Filter : 8.50

https://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-106N-Engine-Drain-Valve/dp/B003T7XUE4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484523075&sr=8-1&keywords=fumoto+valve

Fumoto 25 bucks so you have a clean easy drain for when you keep doing it in the future.

https://www.amazon.com/Pennzoil-550038221-Platinum-5W-30-Synthetic/dp/B00ELHNM3K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484523115&sr=8-3&keywords=pennzoil+ultra+platinum+5w30

35 for pennzoil oil thats way better than whatever generic shit theyre pumping into your car.

So its 44 bucks for the oil and the filter for premium oil. 70 with the sweet valve that will make it a snap for the rest of your life.


Also, if you're considering paying 79 for a cabin air filter FYI you can get one for 12 bucks on amazon and pop out your glove box in 3 minutes and do it yourself.

My 01 did this to me but was also misfiring too. I ended up replacing oil control filter valve and the variable valve timing solenoid.

It's a super easy diy job and parts were ~$80.

Essentially, my variable valve timing was off because either the filter was blocked or the solenoid failed. This cause the misfires and the engine and traction light.

These are the parts I bought (you'd have to verify they fit your 02)

Dorman OE Solutions 917-288 Variable Valve Timing Solenoid https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CGSJYH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3ZPYAbAXQG9GV

Toyota 15678-46020 Oil Control Valve Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TNNQHRU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_10PYAbK1FZ4AW

They're nice filters. Super cheap on amazon with next day shipping as an add-on item.
https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-FL400S-Oil-Filter/dp/B000AS3D42/

That, with full synthetic oil at $28, makes my oil change just over $31.

On amazon a Wix filter for my truck is $10.25.

On Rock Auto the same filter is $6.63.

But yes, if you're ordering just one filter at a time from RockAuto you're better off going Amazon because of Prime. I just order 5 at a time from RA and it comes out a little cheaper.

$47 for the oil and $13 for the filter. Labor is free because I usually do it in the parking lot of any auto store and then drop the oil into their free oil dispense containers. lol

If you don't have record of the last time the coolant was changed, change it. To play it safe I'd use Subaru Super Coolant (blue) with Subaru Cooling System Conditioner (Holts Radweld).

In the event you need to do the head gasket, Speed Academy has an amazing video I used to do mine.

• Subarus tend to be easy to fix when they break. I have an '09 2.5i SE 5MT and I didn't even have to remove the hood to remove my engine.
  
• Make sure whatever brand you use the new gaskets are MLS (multi-layer steel). As they are regarded in the community I used Six-Star Bernie.
  
• If I had to do it again I would have used ARP studs to fasten my heads to the block.
  
• Machine shop labor is cheap. Take your heads to one to have them professionally-decked.
  
• When torquing the head studs into the block, find the Subaru directions (i.e., Mitchell1) and *follow them to the letter*. You're going to be turning them, backing them off, turning them again and whatnot. Just go with it.
  
• "As long as ya got it outta there" you can change these things as well:
  
  • Timing belt & pulleys, thermostat, water pump (Aisin / "eye-shin" sells a reasonably-priced kit)
    
  • Coolant hoses
    
  • Spark plugs
    
  • Engine oil and filter
    
  • Oil pump
    
  • STi engine mounts (left, right)
    
  • *RECOMMENDED* oil pickup (the OEM one tends to crack, starving your engine of oil)
    
  • *RECOMMENDED* timing belt guide (as the stamped OEM one failed when my engine blew, I replaced it with a Tomei milled one)
    
    Call me crazy, but when I blew my engine I elected to keep the car. Subaru has engineered a family sedan way better than it has to be for the market and it shows.
    
    I need to do some digging to find the invoices of parts I purchased; I'll update this reply as I find them.

I did the same thing to my 76 360 (very similar engine). The tricky part was the oil filter locknut.
All i had to do was drain the oil, remove the crankcase cover, pull the centrifugal oil filter (this took a spanner to remove the locknut as shown in the manual), pull the clutch and the shift shaft pulls right out. Have a look at a parts fiche on partzilla or whatnot and it'll give you a pretty good idea.

The spanner can be purchased here for 10 bucks (worth it), or do what i did and spend an afternoon making one from a 12 point 15/16" socket - http://www.hondatwins.net/forums/62-engine-discussion/19731-clutch-hub-nut-socket-how-make-2.html

Overall it was an easy fix and didnt take more than 2 hours for a totally incompetent mechanic like myself.

>90915-YZZF2

Indeed, I was asking that, if I could find the manufacturer for that filter, so I don't have to spend extra for the toyota logo, I found:

for mahle filters and its price

for fram filters and its price (it says high mileage)

and ofc the one suggested by another redditor bosch 3311

Now I have to ask, which brand is better, thanks in advance

I see two wix filters

$15 https://www.amazon.com/WIX-Filters-57047XP-Cartridge-Filter/dp/B00HFLCGP4/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_3?keywords=wix+xp+oil+filter+2017+camry&qid=1556081836&replacementKeywords=wix+xp+oil+filter&s=gateway&sr=8-3-fkmrnull&vehicle=2017-76-1011------------&vehicleName=2017+Toyota+Camry

$10 https://www.amazon.com/WIX-Filters-57047-Cartridge-Metal/dp/B000RDLBFS/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1?keywords=wix+oil+filter+2017+camry&qid=1556081992&replacementKeywords=wix+oil+filter&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnull&vehicle=2017-76-1011------------&vehicleName=2017+Toyota+Camry

​

​

that $15 looks pretty similar in construction the $11 fram from walmart

the $10 one looks like the k&n and the toyota oem both at $5..

From what I understand the "30" oil change is the most basic, bulk oil on the market as well as the crappiest cheap filter too. I like to get the 15K Miles full synthetic for all of $25 shipped with prime as well as a premium BOSCH filter for abouit $5. But thats just me.

Ford just puts semi synthetic in, so any full synthetic and you're doing well... But even then, mind=blown that they still think 10k OCI is fine for a GDI-T motor, so I'm going with 5k intervals personally.

To answer your actual question, just did my first at 1500 miles (get the break in oil out, 5k from here on out) with Castrol Magnatec 5w-20 full synthetic w/Bosch Premium filter (#3330, excellent drain back valve to prevent dry starts). Was only $17.88, at the time for the oil and $5.59 for the filter w/Prime. Car immediately ran smoother and pulled quicker, that initial break in oil must be rough.

It's just that a decent oil filter usually has it. The Purolator PureOne was fantastic for me "Anti-Drain Back Valve" this is meant to prevent oil from flowing out of the top of the engine due to gravity. In other words, oil will remain inside your lifters, and reduce the amount of tick when starting up, and the amount that oil will dry up or gunk up. I just changed my oil and didn't use this type of filter, and it is significantly louder on startup.

Best oil filter you can buy

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000AS3D42?cache=7f64b7e7e11b780165e3b3122a2984f7&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1413471655&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

It can also help to buy the filters in bulk on Amazon, or a similar site: http://www.amazon.com/Subaru-Oil-Filters-Washers-Pack/dp/B007NLQO0O/

Amazon, looks like price went up a little.

Subaru 15208AA15A Oil Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I798FIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_h13Jyb556SS3Y

Here's what the vdub filter should look like https://www.amazon.com/Mann-Filter-719-45-Spin-Filter/dp/B002UZGCSW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536525444&sr=8-3&keywords=volkswagen+tiguan+oil+filter

Someone suggested that they might have used the old adapter onto the new filter. I still wouldn't be comfortable with that.

Green filter

Clutch Spring

Short shift plate

FL400s oil filter

Shift knob (JBR)

Rear motor mount (Mountune not really cheap))

This is what Purolator is to me.

This is what I do on my MK6. You cannot beat the price!

Motul 007250 8100 X-cess 5W-40 Synthetic Gasoline and Diesel Engine Oil - 5 Liter Jug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LEYIQ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_DR8Izb3RH6NR0

Mann-Filter W 719/45 Spin-on Oil Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UZGCSW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_.T8Izb5JM5AKP

Oil

Filter

Shell Rotella Synthetic 5w-40 in the blue bottle and a Purolator PL14610. I know it's not available outside the US, but when I wanted to know about oil there's more information than you should ever need to know at this website. Both my oil and filter are direct results of that website.

OEM oil filters are so cheap there's no reason not to use them, in my opinion. Amazon sells a six pack of them for $27.

Also, the oil could be burning because it's too thin. I have been using Motul 8100 xcess 5w40, which my tuner Yimisport recommended, in my 2012 STI and I've had basically zero consumption over the last two years.

Finally, a big step toward solving oil consumption is using an air-oil-separator. The stock configuration returns oil to the engine via the intake, which ends up getting in your intercooler and ultimately burning in the combustion cycle. An AOS strips the oil from this air and returns it via a drip back into the engine block. It never needs emptying like an oil catch can either. Crawford and Perrin both make them now. Grimspeed makes a cheaper, smaller design but I've read it doesn't work as effectively.