Reddit mentions: The best steering system

How much do you want to spend, and what are your priorities? Value? Performance? Authenticity and physical quality?

For $300-$400, the Thrustmaster TX or T300RS are the best on the market. The T300RS was recently on sale for $300, so you probably could find it soon again for that price. Both have the same base (T300RS is slightly revised), but the T300RS is Playstation branded and compatible, and has a wheel that many regard as superior to the stock TX Ferrari wheel. You can get a very similar replacement wheel for the TX for roughly ~$100. The T300RS is the wheel I'm planning on buying, and believe me, I did a lot of searching.

CS V2 costs $550 plus a wheel which will cost roughly $250-$350, plus shipping costs. You're looking at like $800-$900, two, to three times the cost of the TX/T300RS without taxes or shipping. Not to mention you need an invite.

The Fanatec Base and the Thrustmaster TX T300RS all have brushless servo motors and belt drives, and have that "Hall Effect" tech. T300RS has 1080 degrees of rotation which is more than the CSv2, but that's a minor point.

They are very close to the CSV2 mechanically. CSv2 has a higher quality fit and finish. Personally, I don't mind rubber on a wheel so the TX/T300RS are fine for me, and fit and finish isn't really noticeable while in a race, at least for me anyways, you're focusing on the car, not the wheel, lol. I don't even feel the wheel while in an intense race. The CSv2 may have a slight advantage mechanically, but I've done a lot of searching myself and folks who have owned both say the CSv2 is better, but it isn't twice as good as the TX/T300RS, despite its price, as the CSv2 costs 3x as much as a TX and 2x as much as a T300RS.

> "Clubsport feels better than the TX but it's not twice as good.... given the price difference. The TX is honestly a great base when you replace the standard rim.
> When I moved from G27 to TX the driving feel was dramatically improved. But switching from TX to Clubsport the best way to describe the feeling is its a more refined force feedback.
>
> My personal advice for TX owners... thinking about switching
>
> Step 1: Switch to clubsport V2 pedals
>
> Step 2: Replace standard rim with a real car wheel
>
> Step 3: Triple screens
>
> Step 4: Add Fanatec SQ shifter
>
> Step 5:- Only now "consider" buying clubsport base & rim
>
> As a TX owner you should know you have great wheel base with good force feedback."


> "I keep reading reviews from different people and basically yes the Clubsport equipment is definitely better looking and appears more substantial and built of superior materials (ie metal vs lots of plastic) but only a little better in performance.

> Even Darin Gangi stated more than once that when testing the Thrustmaster T3PA pedals they were getting same lap times as when using clubsport pedals. I guess you have to decide if look and feel is worth 2-3 times the price with little performance improvement."
(link)

TL;DR: For $300-$400 get a Thrustmaster Tx or T300RS. If you have an unlimited budget you can get a CSv2, but don't expect it to be 2 or 3x the wheel the Thrustmasters are...you're paying primarily for exclusivity and fit & finish. The CSv2 has the better build-quality no doubt, and if you want ultimate authenticity you could justify the cost, but at that point you're probably looking for an Accuforce anyways. But in terms of playability it's very close to the Thrustmasters.

This was a year ago and I’ve done a few upgrades since then. This is a write-up with some links for those interested in it. Hopefully this wall of info might be useful to someone looking to do what I’ve done. It is a headache and a half along with hours of time just trying to find straightforward info for modding these trucks.

Full specs: 2018 TRD ORP w/ KDSS. Bilstein 6112 2.4” lift (5/5 clip settings for KDSS) & 5160 rear shocks. Eibach ProLift rear springs 1”(note: the KDSS models sit about a .5”-1” lower up front in stock.) Super bump kit. OME rear Right 10mm trim packer for lean correction. 275/70/17 KO2 tires. Stock OR Rims. JBA high caster UCAs. Tyger Auto TG-AM2T20148 side steps (for the little wife, to mitigate the tires flinging rocks at the paint and they also help with parking lot door dings)


Lights: The LEDs are Nineo Gen2 for H11 and 9005. It was around $100 total from amazon. They are identical to the Supernova v.4. So if you’re thinking of those, save your money with these.

The DRLs do work fine, believe it or not, and the flicker when in DRL mode is BARELY noticeable and looks kinda cool imo, it’s $50 vs $180 for xenon depots, and I don’t think XDs are $130 better imo. They also do dim. I’ll post more pics and a video of the flicker later when I get the headlights adjusted. If you still can’t stand the flicker the XD LEDs with the DRL driver is the way to go or you can just shut off the DRL mode completely without messing with other lighting functions, this is also a warranty safe and non-permanent solution as you can just push the wire back in if you decide to change your mind. (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5-lFBDFjs4VOUtFN2RETDJPd0E/view)

Xenon Depot 9005 LED kit w/ DRL module: https://www.xenondepot.com/9005-Xtreme-LED-kit-pro-p/xt-led-9005-pro.htm

Nineo GEN2 9005: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JCSRS7H/

Katana H11(the Nineo looks sold out, but these are the other identical brand): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078W5WJZ2/

Fog Lights, Yellow LED, installing today along with a yellow film, will post pics later: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F9S49GP/

Lamin-x Yellow Film: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001P2EZFI/



Rubbing, death wobble and suspension: The only rubbing I have is on the front mudflaps at full lock, might modify or just remove flaps completely. No rub on UCAs or body mount.

For grease I use Valvoline VV615, if you go JBA, I highly recommend this 90 degree grease adapter. No mess and super easy. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000G76OMA/

Or you could replace the straight zerk fittings with 45-90 degree zerk fittings.

The rear right OME trim packer that corrected the lean also fixed the steering wheel death wobble some may experience after a lift. So for this particular case I’ll attribute it to a suspension geometry problem. If you still experience the wobble after lean correction there is a bushing to replace the spider bearing in the front left differential, made by ECGS. it’s about $170 for the full install kit with a new cv axle seal. I highly recommend either of these if you’re are finding yourself getting your wheels balanced way more than you should be.

OME 10mm Trim Packer: https://wheelersoffroad.com/i-25490059-rear-trim-packer-for-2003-4runner-2007-fj-cruiser-150pr10.html

ECGS bushing kit: https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-8536125-toyota-8-clamshell-bushing-eliminates-needle-bearing.html

Bilstein 6112 Front Assembly with standard coilovers: https://wheelersoffroad.com/i-26910006-bilstein-6112-height-adjustable-front-strut-set-for-2010-4runner-47-259768-or-47-281202.html

Bilstein 5160 rear shocks with oil reservoir: https://wheelersoffroad.com/i-25489698-bilstein-5160-remote-reservoir-rear-shock-set-for-2003-4runner-2007-fj-cruiser-25-227611-x2.html

JBA STD High Caster UCAs: https://jbaoffroad.com/jba-std-high-caster-upper-a-arms-for-toyota-tacoma-05-plus-4runner-03-plus-fj-cruisers-07-plus.html

Super Bump Kit: https://wheelersoffroad.com/i-25490332-wheelers-front-superbump-bumpstop-set-for-2005-tacoma-2003-4runner-2007-fj-cruiser-2007-tundra-01superbumpkit.html


DIY lift info that helped me:

If you want to lift your KDSS 5th gen 4Runner: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/154230-how-lift-installation-kdss-equipped-vehicles.html

How to install new UCAs on your 4Runner: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/237425-4th-5th-gen-upper-control-arm-uca-install-write-up.html


Information pit #1: Toyota-4Runner.org

Information pit #2: 4runners.com

Other useful sites: tacomaworld.com, tacomaforum.com, tundratalk.net

trail4runner.com(review site, decent tutorials)

Any double din will fit, but you will have space on the sides. Im not too sure about other years but I know the 2017 brz has a trapezoidal shaped head unit.


There is one headunit that will fill in the gaps. I cannot remember what its called atm.



Edit: Also you will need to either create a harness or buy one. I have this one and its completely plug n play. If you want your steering wheel controls to work youll need one of these. This is exactly what I have and it is super easy to use, once you figure out the vague instructions.


Edit2: my link to the harness doesnt seem to be going through. www.autoharnesshouse.com/67122.html


Edit3: The stock units are 200mm.

Yes. I have a pioneer w4400nex in my 2018 wrx base model. Great headunit with wireless CarPlay. It’s relatively plug and play with a harness from autoharnesshouse. Here are all the links:

AutoHarnessHouse Aftermarket... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GD8627K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Direct wire harness for Pioneer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078GBDRVX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Maestro ADS-MSW Universal Analog Steering Wheel Interface https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J4W10XG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Jg22Db6PFF6R1

Need this to connect FM radio to new Headunit:
Aftermarket Radio Antenna Adapter by Vehicle Aerial Stereo Converter Cable, DIN (Motorola Type) to Antenna Terminal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QNL9QQ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7l22DbVWFF1K2

Need this if you want to retain factory USB port:
Metra Electronics AX-SUBUSB Multicolored Subaru 2011 & Up 4-Pin USB Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JYTLW14/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_do22DbN1SNNSH

This is the dash kit to make the headunit fit properly:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_142SU2031B/Scosche-SU2031B-Dash-Kit-Gloss-Black.html

Those are all the harnesses/wires you’ll need to make it plug and play. The USB adapter might not work if your car has 2 USB ports in the center console. This shouldn’t be a problem anyways since CarPlay is wireless. The USB ports will still charge your phone regardless. If you have the base wrx, it’ll be fine. On YouTube there are plenty of install vids if you ever feel confused.
Edit: the guy from autoharnesshouse (Brian) is also very friendly if you have any questions about the harness, just email him.

$70-90 kit and parts - do it yourself and catch up on a few YouTube videos on how. The Alpha 1 is pretty easy to work on. Mercruiser Alpha One Gen 1 Transom Repair Kit Seals Bearing Bellows 30-803097T1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D4QP9GC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_E-QFDbHMCZK06



Easy weekend project with a buddy and hand tools - https://youtu.be/PU7rUhVw3QY



Good read too -


http://www.sterndrive.info/sterndriveparts/u_joint_bellows_install.html


Might as well do the impeller on the lower unit while you’re at it too.

Thrustmaster TX is a fantastic starting wheel for Xbox One. It has an interchangeable rim system so he can have multiple rims for different games. Theres a good Ferrari F1 Replica Rim for this base that would work perfectly.

In looking at the diagram, 11-20 makes up only one of the 4 caster systems on this deck. The other 3 are made up of (8,) 9, 10 and 13. The part number 13 is what I have multiple kits of because it is the service kit for all casters. The bushing number 14 is common only in the one with the bolt running clear through the system. However, that bolt is only running through a piece of plate steel about 1/4" thick. If I drill through number 8 and the two 9's on the other three, the bolt will need to be much longer. I would guess an M8 x 100 since the one on the plate steel is a 70 mm carriage type bolt. Do you think that will be strong enough? Should I be looking at a certain strength of bolt? Shouldn't that bolt be tack welded so it doesn't spin just like the carriage bolt number 11?

edit: I would need two of these https://www.amazon.com/John-Deere-Original-Equipment-AM120681/dp/B00CAXE6G4 and one of these https://www.amazon.com/John-Deere-Original-Equipment-AM120680/dp/B00CSBRZUW to repair this deck properly. $125 is just too much. Screw that...

I hear they are a great vendor and are really helpful when setting up your wheel. In fact, I ordered one (SW20+) myself and it will be here next week some time. Communication leading up to shipping has been great.

If you're interested in options; I got an inexpensive (~$80) wheel from motamec and built my own wheel button box. It's currently on a T300 base but It will bolt onto a DD. Next I plan on getting a Sport Line rim and maxing a second box. If you want a button box I can provide some links to commercial options and I'm sure others can provide recommendations as well.

The top-end Thrustmaster bases are perfectly comparable to the CSL, everyone in this thread seems to be thinking of the TS-PC / T-GT / TS-XW as equivalent to the T300 which just isn't at all true.

Pedal wise it's trickier as Thrustmaster don't offer a loadcell (though plenty of people would argue the T3PA brake mod makes that fairly superfluous, it's a pretty subjective thing and a lot of the time it's post-purchase rationalisation either way) - but you can always use Fanatec's pedals with Thrustmaster's base.

Just for the sake of (much) cheaper rims I'd personally go for a TS-PC instead of the CSL, even if I was using the Fanatec pedals. I'd either go for the TS-PC and add the 599XX or Sparco r383 rim, or the TS-XW by itself (though Thrustmaster are a bit weird with selling that one with the T3PAs) and then get the Fanatec CSL pedals.

That should be within your budget roughly

TS-PC Racer: $450

TM Sparco R383: $200

CSL Elite LC: $200

Or alternatively you could look at the 488 Challenge wheel which just came out which is a 9:10 scale replica (32cm diameter compared to the standard T300's 28cm) on the TS base, which oculd be very nice (but bumps up the price a decent amount - if you wanted a formula rim you'd probably have to get the Ferrari F1 which is a bit plasticky compared to the rest)

Edit: The caveat here is that if you think you might end up moving up to a Clubsport wheelbase there might be a reason to start investing in the Fanatec ecosystem regarding rims etc. but you're well into diminishing returns at this point and there's every chance that Thrustmaster keep on bringing out higher end wheels given their current trends with the 488 Challenge/TS-XW/T-GT etc.

I used these, bought from Amazon.

Prothane 6-106-BL Black Body and Cab Mount Bushing Kit - 12 Piece

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AVWYPK?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Perfect fit for my 94 xlt 4x4. Someday I'll use the rest of the bushings because it's not like the originals are in great shape.

The thing is these are just the bushings. The hardware to attach them is bizarre, expensive and probably rusted solid in your rig.

I cut out the old bushings, used these replacements and built my own mounting solution using grade 8 bolts.

You can buy new hardware from LMC but it's like $100 for each bushing.

My dealer called and said the car is ready and the factory radio is in the car and there are no issues with remote start. So I’ll run with this for a while to see if I have any issues with remote start again.

I called idatalink support again and asked about the OBD2 port causing this issue. They now say that it is possible that having remote start and the maestro on the ODB2 port both talking to the car can cause issues. But none that would blow a fuse. I asked if I just unplugged that would I eliminate this issue. They said maybe but unplugging the OBD2 plug will not allow the backup camera to work. I definitely need the backup camera to work.

I might buy the harnesses that auto harness house makes for Subaru and use those because they have a harness that gets power for the rear camera from some other pin on the factory harness. I’d then need the maestro SW not the RR for steering wheel controls but at least I’d not be using the maestro OBD2 plug anymore. I don’t care about the data it provides to the screen anyway.

Pioneer to Subaru harness - https://autoharnesshouse.com/AHH-70-1761.html

Subaru 28 pin harness with voltage step down for reverse camera - https://autoharnesshouse.com/49021b.html

Maestro SW - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J4W10XG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Or maybe I just return the pioneer head unit and get a Sony that has steering wheel controls built in and does not need a Maesto at all. They don’t have HD Radio though which I really would miss.

sure. and IM no engineer but its seems like if you put a dampener on the steering neck that prevents the wheel from sharply turning left or right you would at a minimum eliminate the modulation at speed.
something like This comes to mind

Rancho RS5417 RS5000 Series Steering Stabilizer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004YJSN1G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_G.pQAb0E2PYS5

This one has been working great for me, if you can swing the bilstein it is also a good option.
You'll need a 7/16 x 2.25 bolt, nut, and lock washer though.

This is what I just installed on my 94’. It’s pretty easy just remember they are bolts not studs that go through so you have to pull the carpet up to access the top of the bolts

Prothane 6-106-BL Black Body and Cab Mount Bushing Kit - 12 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AVWYPK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CAT7CbAVMPE1K

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GD8627K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 this is the harness i used, has the reverse 6v signal already to go. all you need us usb retention https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DJ4KVQ6/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

then the speaker harness. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BEQJ8/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and lastly the antenna harness https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VYWSES/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

these were all the things i used to wire in my kenwood. besides the tool to keep steering wheel buttons https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J4W10XG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

the autoharnesshouse harness makes it easy to use the maestro by the way. hope this helped. i have a 2017 wrx by the way so i dont know if there is a difference with 2015 and the new 2018+s

Selling the following:

Thrustmaster TX Wheel Ferrari 458 Italia Edition
http://www.thrustmaster.com/en_US/products/tx-racing-wheel-ferrari-458-italia-edition

Thrustmaster TM Leather 28 GT Wheel add on
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-TM-Leather-Wheel-Add-pc/dp/B00TTQKSUS

Both for $225 + shipping (US only)

I can try to take some pics of it tonight and post it here

Pretty sure he's using this with this.

Yep! It's cost me just over $5K including the wheel [$4K without]

My log album here

Build list Here

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | Purchased For $365.94
CPU Cooler | Noctua NH-D14 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler | Purchased For $84.99
Motherboard | MSI Z97-GAMING 7 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | Purchased For $194.14
Memory | Kingston 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | Purchased For $174.99
Storage | Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | Purchased For $97.40
Storage | Samsung 840 EVO 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | Purchased For $254.29
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | Purchased For $104.98
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Ti 3GB Video Card | Purchased For $738.14
Case | Corsair Air 540 ATX Desktop Case | Purchased For $146.99
Power Supply | Corsair RM 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | Purchased For $124.99
Optical Drive | Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer | Purchased For $42.19
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) | Purchased For $103.72
Monitor | Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor | Purchased For $267.49
Monitor | Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor | Purchased For $267.49
Monitor | Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor | Purchased For $267.49
Monitor | LG 23EA53V-P 23.0" Monitor | Purchased For $157.49
Case Fan | NZXT Air Flow Series 83.6 CFM 140mm Fan | Purchased For $30.38
Case Fan | NZXT Air Flow Series 83.6 CFM 140mm Fan | Purchased For $30.38
Case Fan | Silverstone FHP-141 171.0 CFM 140mm Fan | Purchased For $14.43
Case Fan | NZXT FZ-120mm LED 59.1 CFM 120mm Fan | Purchased For $22.72
Case Fan | NZXT FZ-120mm LED 59.1 CFM 120mm Fan | Purchased For $22.72
Case Fan | NZXT FZ-120mm LED 59.1 CFM 120mm Fan | Purchased For $22.72
Keyboard | Razer Blackwidow Ultimate 2013 Wired Gaming Keyboard | Purchased For $146.87
Mouse | Logitech G400s Wired Optical Mouse | Purchased For $62.98
Headphones | Astro A40 7.1 Channel Headset | Purchased For $120.00
Other| EVGA GTX 780 Ti Back Plate Cooling, 100-BP-2881-B9| Purchased For $38.26
Other| NVIDIA 3D Vision 2 Wireless Glasses Kit| Purchased For $142.99
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $4047.17
__

I will be doing a full water loop and this is that part list with the water cooling parts, 1.8K for that

This is the wheel

Standalone shifter

Ferrari F458 Wheel Add On

I got thrusmaster:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014US043A/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TTQKSUS/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UVN21IU/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I really like it. I considered logitech in the beginning but then went with thrustmaster because a lot of people said it felt like a toy and there was a deadzone.

I would use this steering wheel control module. User programmable double function for all buttons and better customer support.

This is what car installers use to hook up steering wheel controls to the head units.
http://amzn.com/B00J4W10XG

The kit appears to be universal... so if you don't have steering wheel controls built in... with this you should be able to wire switches/knobs in and program them pretty easily.

• Wheel base: $220
  
  
  
• Shifter: $180
  
  
  
• Pedals: $150
  
  
  
• Wheel rim: $200
  
  Grand total: $750
  
  
• Fanatec: $1000
  
  It's really not that far off when you consider that Fanatec is broadly considered higher quality than Thrustmaster. I was ready to go all-in on Thrustmaster before I added it all up and realized I might as well keep saving and get the Fanatec stuff.

If you're thinking of this, then I don't THINK that's the issue. I had to change one on a 2012 Sonata, and there was a little bit of play in the steering wheel before it hit the metal teeth that this coupler goes between. On my car, it feels solid, and feels like the noise is being transferred up the steering wheel from components under the hood.

Any of the Thrustmaster wheels should work on it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014US048A/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_1_w

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Ferrari-F458-Wheel-playstation-3/dp/B00CP4IKHE/ref=sr_1_50?srs=2530623011&ie=UTF8&qid=1521061859&sr=8-50

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-TM-Leather-Wheel-Add-pc/dp/B00TTQKSUS/ref=sr_1_56?srs=2530623011&ie=UTF8&qid=1521061859&sr=8-56

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Sparco-Rally-Wheel-Add-383/dp/B0764415FS/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1521061911&sr=1-1&keywords=sparco+thrustmaster

If you want cheaper, maybe someone will sell your their 458 rim from the TX regular package or something.

I personally don't see an advantage just 180 more degrees of rotation.

You could get a servo base like this one and a wheel like this or the TMX and not use the pedals it comes with.

He sells them on Amazon with free next day delivery if you have Prime.

Eagle Mfg. Doohickey - Balancer Idle Lever & Spring Upgrade KAWASAKI KLR650 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FST92I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_n9nZBb28CBTPW

Don’t have an answer on the ball joint but this may be of some interest to you
Lincoln Lubrication 5883 Slotted Right Angle 90 Degree Coupler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000G76OMA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cxiyDbNKB0BHK

I agree I could get an O and the f1 wheel if I really wanted that might not be a bad idea (but still a bit expensive), still don't know to much about what I want to do yet.

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Ferrari-Wheel-Add-PC-6304300-x/dp/B005PPOBQE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541390442&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=thrustmaster+f1+rim&dpPl=1&dpID=51F1C0xlyxL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Ferrari-F458-Wheel-playstation-3-x/dp/B00CP4IKHE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541390399&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=thrustmaster+ferrari+rim&dpPl=1&dpID=51GeLsKQWdL&ref=plSrch

Yes, exactly like the normal DC game. ( btw, the wheel setup / rotation is exactly the same between in-game and real-life )

I did personally tested both DC and DC VR with a wheel from an amazon tryout ( T300RS + Ferrari F1 Wheel Add-on ) with the Renault RS01 and it was really immersive, unfortunately, I wasn't able to be as fast as I should with the wheel, so I didn't bough it.

You can buy the T300 Base for $244 from Amazon plus your choice of wheel like the Ferrari 599XX EVO Wheel Add-On, Alcantara Edition for $165, the TM Leather 28 GT for $150 or the Ferrari GTE F458 for $130 or you could listen to /u/isternes and go Fanatec for a few dollars more.

I went with the prothane kit

Ride feels objectively better, although I only replaced the bushings that were completely rotten yesterday, the passenger front radiator support and passenger side front cross cab support, the rest of the bushings are still in okay condition, and plan to change them as time permits.

I had a huge issue with "crashing" on hard bumps, and it turned out due to the lower bushing missing on the aformentioned corners, the cab would lift then fall back down on the frame rails, causing a pretty harsh ride quality.

Google is your friend.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-cherokee/1579818-xj-unibody-stiffener-vs-plating.html

Plenty of options


http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/XJRAIL.html

http://liquidironindustries.com/XJ-Front-Frame-Plating-kit.html

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DEP3YUQ

Closest F1 racing wheel i can find to look as cool as you... http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005PPOBQE?cache=26d6c035f6b2fa71a03ed4444678ada9&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1405227562&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1 ....is the Shift meter functional on yours?

I’m not actually too much of a fan of my current Momo wheel... I’m eyeing up this one

https://www.amazon.com/PRH35BK2B-Steering-Prototype-Heritage-Leather/dp/B076VTV3FK

I got the Dynatek DSPT-1 on my Sportster. It doesn't require a computer to adjust timing but it's also not as adjustable as those ignitions. If you're going for just a stage 1 then you're fine.

https://www.amazon.com/Dynatek-Davidson-2004-06-Sportster-carbureted/dp/B000GZQOL8

Or get one of these and use it in your car as well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IIM69HK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ujWCDbSTNPDG0

*ETA: Just to clear up confusion these are the repairs as quoted to me: Tail light - $242 Rack and Pinion - $876 Power Steering Pump - $342 Power Steering Flush - $119 2 front tires - $282 Alignment - $89 Wiper blades - $25 (would just replace myself).

That's $2000 to replace this and this. I don't see it.

From this older post of OP's It looks like a classic Nardi wheel, but you can find one made by MOMO that is almost exactly the same.

Parts alone will be like $70 including steering wheel controls, specifically this. Not sure of any new, known brands that are less than 250 for a touchscreen.

From memory/Amazon history, here's what I installed:

• Kenwood DDX6704
  
• DKMUS Double Din Radio Stereo Installation Panel
  
• Maestro ADS-MSW Universal Analog Steering Wheel Interface
  
• Metra TYTO-01 JBL Amplifier Interface Harness
  
• Also bought this but I don't think I used it...

Nex2300


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073BKPWNC/

With this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J4W10XG/

Over your budget, but this is a real wheel that's similar to the Mod30 (320mm) but slightly smaller at 300mm, and $75ish cheaper.

https://www.amazon.com/Sport-Line-Racing-Steering-Wheel/dp/B00EBGHRT6

was thinking of getting this wheel

https://www.amazon.ca/Thrustmaster-Ferrari-Racing-Wheel-T500/dp/B005PPOBQE/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=f1+race+wheel&qid=1572317349&sr=8-1

http://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Ferrari-Wheel-Add-On-PC-6304300/dp/B005PPOBQE

How are you guys setting up the wheel? I tried using an f1 wheel at 270 Degrees and just couldn't make it work. I picked up an Alcantara specifically for Dirt rally what degree are most of you using?.

The dash kit for your car ALONE is almost $300:

PAC RPK4-HD1101

Bonus points is it comes with the radio harness and SWC is built in.

Metra makes one with rubber buttons that's gross and I hate it because it's terrible and bad but might be found cheaper.

I SUPPOSE you could do the pocket replacement kit:

Metra 95-7862

But it looks ril bad and the factory radio just kinda sits there and looks dumb.

As far as radios for your budget? Alpine iLX-W650

Does what you want, none of what you don't. Add the install parts and a new SXM tuner and you're off.

Wanna do it cheap AND keep SWC: Maestro SW

And still need the wiring harness to the car, I wanna say Metra 1721? Don't quote me.