(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best beading & jewelry making crafts

I think you should pick up another straight that has been honed to shave ready. Larry at Whipped Dog has some very affordable blades that are supposed to be shave ready. You can use this as a measure to getting your blade up to snuff.

Also, technique may be an issue. But you've been shaving a while....

If you can't get it keen on a 4K, you may need to set that bevel again... There is no formula for bevel setting, just a feeling. I'd blunt the blade on a thumbnail, then hone until you can easily pop hair with the edge. Then, move up a measured progression like pyramid honing.

Here's a copy past I did you might find useful:

Equipment Essentials

• A pro honed razor at your side. You need to compare the sharpness of the razor you're working on, with the sharpness of a razor that is shave ready. This will decrease your learning curve considerably. You're working blind otherwise.
  
  

• DMT flattening stone. Your hones don't ship flat, and you must even them out to ensure a smooth edge. Flattening before every use is a good idea. If you don't want to buy the DMT, use 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper and atop piece of marble/glass.
  
  
• Norton 4K/8K A popular choice for general honing, and can perform a laborious restoration/bevel set (if you do more than a few razors, get the 1k below to set a bevel).
  
  
• A jewelers loop to see what happens to the blade as you hone, polish, stop and shave. I feel watching the scratch patterns of a straight razor bevel change is a critical educational step in straight razor bevel maintenance.
  
  
• Chromium Oxide on a strop for final polish, or a diamond pasted strop.
  
  
  Honing Supplies for Restoring a Few Straights
  
  
• If you end up honing a few razor from antique stores or ebay, it's good to have a stone dedicated to bevel setting. This stage is 50% of the sharpening process, so it pays to have quality gear at this level King 1000 K For bevel setting on a budget (beware, it's a slow cutter). Or a nice bevel setter like this Chosera.
  
  
  
• Niawa 12K For a nice final polishing of your razor. 8K is fine, but this puts a great edge on your blade.
  
  To hone:
  
  First, you need to flatten your stone, making sure you've removed the top 1/64th or so of stone material to reach the true grits (the top is a bit rough on Nortons especially).Make sure your stone is perfectly flat. Use the DMT or the sandpaper I described above for this.
  
  Next, clean your SR in soap/warm water. Dry it, and put a piece of electrical tape along the spine and fold it over (like a book binding) if you'd like (not necessary, and I don't do this, but some prefer the look of the end product).
  
  I like to clear the edge of possible errand burs before I hone, so I drag the shaving edge against my thumbnail or a glass bottle. These burs can cause issues, and may make for a rough feeling edge. I've found that this is a good way to remove them. It may be unnecessary for some/most blades, but it's part of my bevel setting routine, and by doing this, I've notice good things and increased consistency when I hone.
  
  Now, to hone. You're going to get your razor sharp in these stages:
  
  

• Set the bevel (establish the sharp edge shape)
  
• Polish the bevel (polish the shape you created earlier)
  
• True the bevel (strop the bevel to make sure the edge is very uniform)
  
  Setting the bevel:
  
  While all steps are important, this step is foundational. Place your razor on your bevel setting stone, keeping the razor spine and edge completely flat on the surface togehter. Do tiny circle strokes (circular motion down the hone) so you do about 30-40 tiny circles as you move own the bottom hone. Repeat on the other side of the razor, moving up the hone in the opposite direction (and counter-wise circle direction). Now do 15 x strokes. This is a set.
  
  Repeat doing these sets until you can shave hair on your arm or leg by very slowly grazing over the tops of the hair - it should catch and cut with a bit of a tug.
  
  It will take many many of these sets with a 4k stone, and less with a 1K.
  
  Once you can shave hair on your arm or leg all along the bevel (toe to heel) with uniform sharpness and cutting, you may be set. Do another 10 or so x-strokes, very lightly, very perfectly as a final sharpening for your bevel. See if this helps your edge.
  
  Once you're happy with your bevel, strop it and shave. If it's painful, it's likely your bevel isn't set. If it's decent, you're ready to move on.
  
  Polishing the bevel
  
  Now move up to polishing. On the 4K and do 35 light x strokes. Go to the 8K and do 35 light x-strokes. Repeat this back and forth going 4K 30, 8K 30. Now keep this up, decreasing the stroke number by 5. When you're at 10 strokes, just do 25 on the 8K.
  
  Always check for sharpness along the edge by trimming a bit of arm hair. You'll learn a lot from an edge by doing this.
  
  Following the grits up in this fashion should give you a fairly polished bevel. It's best to go higher than 8K with a high grit chinese hone from a woodworking store, or a naninwa 12k, but 8K will do for now.
  
  Truing the edge:
  
  Strop about 30 passes on your chromium oxide, clean the blade, and the perform 200 passes on leather - all spine leading, done very lightly.
  
  The Shave
  
  After all this, you should have a great edge. Give it a test shave and compare it to your pro honed blade.
  
  While honing, you'll likely get frustrated, but keep at it! If you're getting aggressive with the razor, just give it a break, and come back later. If the shave is no good, post back here and we'll help you diagnose.
  
  
  Some thoughts:
  
  I tired to present information that's very searchable. Straight razor place has archived many of the ideas that I just presented. I highly recommend researching on your own and reaching a personal conclusion. What follows are my personal opinions.
  
  This equipment I suggest is not necessarily the best, nor is it bad at all. It's great way to get started and find out what you like in a stone/routine. Some ideas to consider if you upgrade your set:
  
  
• Try a natural stone for a finisher. I use a vintage Thuringian hone called an Barber's Delight Escher.
  
• Upgrade your progression by adding various in-between grits. I really like going from a Chosera 1K, to Shapton Pro (not glass version) 2K, 5K, 8K, 15K, then finish.
  
• Try finishing a blade with a pasted strop, and try without. Some love one over the other.
  
  The back and forth honing I recommend is a honing series called pyramid honing, where you go between two different grit hones to ensure you don't form a wire edge or a bur. I like to recommend this for folks getting into honing since this is one of the most documented methods for get a razor to shave ready from a bevel set. A quick google search on pyramid honing will give you plenty of reading. I don't hone this way any more.
  
  I highly recommend honing your razor as sharp as possible on one stone, strop as I've outlined, and give it a shave. For example, sharpen as much as you can at the 4K stage, and strop it 200 times. If it shaves ok, you're on the right track. If not, you've got more work to do at that level of stone. You'll be amazed that such a low grit can shave so well. If it's painful to shave after your lowest stone.... you're not done, and moving up the stones will not benefit your edge. Repeating this process of shaving up all the stone grits (4K, 8K, 12K) will help you get a feel for what honing at the different levels provide. Shaving off my 1K bevel provided me the biggest leap in edge quality while learning.
  
  Don't limit your techniques. Once you can confidently bring a restored razor to shave with consistency, I'd recommend playing around and experimenting. Though this, I've developed some strokes that are critical to my routine, and used effectively with every blade I sharpen.
  

Okay, so I'm actually planning on doing a Crusader myself next year and I can go into some of what I plan on using. Also keep in mind that while I have done armor before, I am by no means an expert on it, I just know what my preferences are and how I plan on tackling some of the hurdles.

So lets tackle the elephant first, The Armor:

"Armored by faith, driven by duty, bound to kill the enemies of the Zakarum."

• For materials I plan on using a combination of things as in my experience one typically isn't enough. Yes worbla is a good jumping off point, but its rather expensive for my tastes and I have heard a lot of horror stories in the past of it reforming itself when being left in peoples cars. So instead, like the addict I am, will be resorting to my normal shenanigans of ABS and Sintra with a dash of craft foam and EVA foam.
  
• Both the plastics you can get at a plastic manufacturer , ABS runs around $80 for a 4'x8' sheet, and Sintra runs about $30 for the same size, you will need a power cutter for the ABS, but a box cutter should be okay for the Sintra. Craft foam is carried at most craft stores for scrapbooking, just ask and they can get you set up and its like $8 for a pack of 12-16 18"x24" sheets, and EVA foam you can get at most hardware stores or Wal-Mart but I'd recommend Harbor Freight as they have both rolls and squares, typically runs $10-$20.
  
• All of the above can be molded with a heat gun, if you get one get at least a 2 heat, and I'd personally recommend this one. Just becareful and wear gloves and make sure you ventilate pretty well. Also, test it, test it, test it! Make sure to get a good feel for how the material will work with your resource.
  
• Bonus note! ABS and Sintra can be heated in the oven. Use a non-stick silver pan when heating them. ABS is roughly 300 degrees for 15 min, will be flexible for about 45 seconds, so you need to act fast. Sintra goes in about 5 min at like 250 degrees (much lower heating threshold). Oven heating is really good for base shapes, base shape around an arm, or a leg or w/e, but not for detailing, use a heatgun on low for that. Also make sure that after you base-shape you smooth it out really nice or you're gonna have some warping on the sides. And since both of these are heat moldable, if you don't have glue you can stick it back in the oven and try again.
  
• Bonus bonus: ABS is solid, like ridiculously solid. I've had people physically hit my armor and hurt themselves on it. I also can withstand competition level Airsoft Rifles and literally not feel a thing.
  
• For small details I'm going to be investing in a 3D printer next year. Dremel has one that is supposed to have super good quality and really easy to use for $1000, so come on tax return.
  
• Chain mail if you have a pair of pliars and a lot of patience you can get chainmail rings on Amazon for about $25-30 depending on the size. This does take a while so I'd recommend starting a good TV show and watching it in the background while you work.
  
• Finally, make sure you pattern your pieces. To do this wrap what you want to pattern in cellophane and cover it loosely in tape, preferably something that you can use a sharpie on, and then draw out the base pattern from there. Make sure to include an extra 5-10%. I cannot stress this enough, you would not believe how many pieces I've had to remake because I didn't make them big enough the first time. Don't waste your money because of this stupid simple mistake.
  
  Okay, onto a bit easier subject, The Cloth and Leather:
  
  "My faith is rewarded."
  
  
• For the fabric you really need to decide if you want to be a little worn or like a majestic unicorn. IF you're going for worn look for a fabric that already appears as such. A good example would be some sort of cotton linen hybrid that you can wear up a bit with a box cutter (look up how to weather pants for this). If you want to be majestic and BA, look for a high sheen cotton sateen. It really all depends on what you can find in the store, also look online too, most places will either just give you a small sample or sell you them for like $1-2.
  
• For your leather I'd say go for a Vinyl for solid pieces and actual leather for the quilted pieces. If you have a Tandy Leather in your area go there. They are super willing to help and if you show them pictures and tell them what you want to do they'll get you all set up. They even offer classes and have open work where an instructor will just sit there and answer questions.
  
  My plan for my eternal Phalanx, and this can be debated, The Shield:
  
  "The crusade marches on!"
  
  
• For the base I'm going to be using pink insulation foam layered upon itself. I'm doing this because it's cheap and light, and trust me, that is important. You need to carry this around all day, no reason to make your arm hate you. Also I do not care if the inside is curved in, in fact, I almost prefer it not to be.
  
• After I carve/sand the outside to base shape I'll add detail where needed with either more insulation foam or craft foam.
  
• Once everything is pretty coat it all in either Gesso (4-5 coats) or Paper Mache to seal the pours. Then cover it in (Plasti Dip](http://www.plastidip.com/) to seal it and give it a nice look, this will also add a bit of stability to it.
  
• By far the Gesso will be the most expensive as it's about $20 for a 32 oz jar and will need about 1 jar per coat.
  
• After all of that paint it, add some straps and your golden. Oh and if you want to save some materials and money dont make an arm guard for your shield arm unless you want to magnetize it as it will more than likely just be getting in the way and you will run the risk of ruining the guard anyways. My plan is to magnetize both forearms so I can use the shield in either arm btw.
  
• Oh and for the shield grip (what you hold in your hand) use a gate pull. They wont move around like cloth, they're not entirely uncomfortable, and they're cheap.
  
  Last but not least, everyone favorite, The Weapon:
  
  "Do not hesitate to strike down your enemies. Death is their salvation from evil."
  
  
• Dowel rods are a great base. I'd also recommend PVC, for longer weapons PVC is ideal as its lighter and thicker pieces won't bend as much as you think, but feel free to test this out.
  
• Use pink insulation foam for the larger pieces like the hammer head and spear tip. Again it makes it lighter, and the lighter it is the more comfortable you'll be.
  
• For things like blades and whatnot, if it's more than a foot long add an internal notch and some way of anchoring it inside of the insulation foam. This will make sure that the foam wont move around on you and you don't have a magic rotating weapon. This will also prevent them from flying of if the glue someone comes undone.
  
• For the details it's back to Sintra and Craft Foam. Like these are amazing and can really add a nice pop to your weapon. Other commonly used items are foam display board.
  
• Finally make sure you cover porous things in Gesoo + Plasti Dip. I've even see people use 4-way stretch spandex because they didn't want to paint. Just make sure your edges are nice and clean.
  
  That's really all I got. Only other thing I could suggest is to take your time and start early. Some of my friends, and even me sometimes, don't start early and will run around the week before/week of freaking out because we're not done, so don't be like us. Be smart. Oh, speaking of being smart, make sure you use PPE. If you don't know if you need it ask about it. You don't want to be working with something like resin without a mask and get breathing issues in 15 years because you didn't protect yourself. And what ever you do, don't forget:
  
  "Kneel before Zakarum!"

OMG. You are amazing, my friend. Happy cake day! I love love love this contest idea!! And it gives me motivation to actually finish a drawing!! Thank you for this!!

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2. The person I love the most is my wonderful and amazing boyfriend. The past few years have been pretty rough for me.. I struggled with super low self-esteem and trying to recover from abusive relationships. My home life seems to be getting more and more uncomfortable and stressful and things were just looking pretty gloomy. Then he came into my life. He gladly accepted me the way I am. He accepted all of my flaws and faults and still encourages me to get better. I don't have to pretend to be perfect around him. For the first time in a relationship, I feel safe. He makes me laugh and smile just by being himself. He knows what little things I love like spending $2 to feed ducks and geese for 6 hours, or just cuddling and watching a movie or talking. He always wants to help and he tries so hard to help me feel comfortable. I know I'm a lot to deal with, but he works with me. I have never felt so beautiful and so appreciated. I failed a class last semester and I was so upset, so afraid. He didn't get upset or disappointed. He said, "You tried your best, right? You know what you did wrong. You know where you struggled. Take it again next semester and try your best again. I know you can do it." In my family, education has a high place and failure is the worst possible thing. It was truly different and shocking to hear those words. To hear someone who I cared about and who knew what I was trying to do to tell me it was okay that I failed. I know I'm a stronger person because of him. I'm more confident and I'm not as hard on myself. I can't imagine being with anyone else, but I know if we do end for some reason, it'll be okay. He treats me so amazingly and he keeps letting me see these good aspects of myself I never noticed. He supports me and I support him. We're able to talk to each other about a problem that comes up without a huge fight or blaming one another. I admire him so much and respect him. He's truly one of the most amazing humans I could have ever met. I'm just so glad that we work well together. <3
   
   
3. This is definitely my best work yet. c: Thank you for holding this contest and giving me the drive to work so hard on this piece c: It's perfect timing too! His birthday is coming up! :D ONTO THE PICTURES. Here is the picture I referenced. Here is my drawing c:
   
   
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5. I hope you have a fantabulous time before the river, during the river, and after the river! You are an amazing person. I don't know you well, but I really hope that I'll be able to do a contest as big as yours some time in the future! This is a great idea!

http://www.reddit.com/r/askscience/comments/e1sa0/my_kids_asked_santa_for_a_microscope_for/ Some not bad advice in that thread. Let me second a stereo-microscope. The stereomicroscope in my lab is easily my favorite to play with. I'd start by reading this

I think something like this or something like this which are, as far as I can tell, modified dermatologist scopes, might be good for a 5th grader. (Reviews are pretty good indicators on this, though don't trust zoom numbers most zoom 20-30x and the rest is all digital.) I spent a summer volunteering at a place with something like these, they are fun. Also if you want something that doesn't take pictures but is a pretty neat field scope you should check out, this, this, or this (note, jeweler loupes do not have lights built in). If you want something kind of medium range, most sites recommend Celestron scopes as pretty good. If you really want a compound microscope (and you know how to operate a microscope, I can't emphasize this enough, otherwise it will not work!) this is recommended by the microscope buying guide. (Also as someone else said, you will run out of stuff to look at pretty fast with a compound scope.) Though that site has a number of nice compound microscopes.

Hi! The beads you want are called pony beads, best to buy a variety of colors, and I really prefer sorted boxes like this: https://www.amazon.com/Beadery-Bead-Extravaganza-19-75-Ounce-Pearl/dp/B007QNFP40/ref=sr_1_7?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1496023909&sr=1-7&keywords=pony+beads

They are good to use for most of the bracelet, some people also like to put on fancy glass or wood beads, or metal charms, or plastic small toys, the possibilities are endless.

For string, you want something stretchy, and my personal favorite is this fabric covered elastic: https://www.amazon.com/White-Medium-Elastic-Cord-Yard/dp/B000GPTDB6/ref=sr_1_4?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1496023994&sr=1-4&keywords=elastic+string but some people also use clear plastic stretchy string.

Other things you might want are letter beads for writing words: https://www.amazon.com/Trasfit-Acrylic-Alphabet-Bracelets-Necklaces/dp/B01IQNJF1W/ref=sr_1_13?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1496024078&sr=1-13&keywords=letter+beads

You can find all of these locally at any craft store (joann, michael's, hobby lobby, even the craft section of walmart, or whatever your local equivalents are).

For the kandi masks, I've never made one, but I have had good luck searching for tutorials for cuffs and other things on youtube. I'm sure they will have a good one for masks too. Good luck! :) It's very rewarding to be able to give kandi and trade to make memories.

Hey! I'm by no means an expert in this, but I figured I could at least try to answer.

First off- Welcome! It's super awesome that you're so interested in bead spriting. Now, onto the answers!

• Fuse, hama, and perler beads are all technically different things!
  
  • Fuse beads - Refers to any/all types of beads used for bead spriting. Sort of like how Crayola and Roseart both make crayons, "fuse" is the type of product all bead-based companies produced. They're beads that are FUSED together through, generally, ironing.
    
  • Perler beads, as far as I can tell, are sort of the U.S standard for fuse beads. They're also the only kind I'm familiar with! "Perler" refers to the brand. Their website is here!
    
  • Hama beads, as far as I can tell, are the U.K standard for fuse beads. They're more or less the same (with slight variation in color, and though I've never used Hama, i'd imagine there's a different melting rate) as perler beads. "Hama", like "Perler", refers to the brand. You can view their website here!
    
    • I'm unfamiliar with the quality of Perler vs Hama. I'd order more based on what's convenient for your location- as a beginner, I can't imagine you're dead-set on figuring out the hyperspecifics of qualities!
      
• If I were you, I'd buy supplies separately. I purchase a lot of my stuff from Joanne in-person, but I'd imagine similar products are available online. My purchasing habits sort of go as follows...
  
  • If I know I need a specific color, I buy a bag of that specific color. For instance, I use black beads a lot for outlining, so I always try to have lots of them on-hand.
    
  • You can't do beading without a pegboard! Because I tend to only do sprite patterns, I don't need any specific shape of board. Perler makes a lot of boards in certain shapes- things like horses or dolls- for kids. These are awesome options to look into, but personally, I use a big, clear, rectangular board.
    
  • You also can't iron your designs (or, at least, shouldn't) without some sort of protection. You can get a roll of ironing paper, though I know there's some alternative ironing methods on this sub.
    
  • This might not be the best tip, but it's how I do/did it. If you're looking for a variety of colors and don't mind sorting, you can buy bulk buckets of various colors of beads. Buckets like this have a wide variety of colors, but you won't get quite as many of any one color, and you have to sort. It's a trade-off; you can get a few of a wide variety, or a lot of one color in bags.
    
  • You might want to consider a case if you're planning on organizing your beads.
    
• There's DEFINITELY better advice than this, but if you want it to have a more melty look, more heat is gonna get that. I'd go for lower heat for longer, rather than ramping up the heat for the same amount of time. Too much heat in any case can be damaging; it can warp the board or you can end up with wrinkles in your design.
  
  ​
  
  hope this helps!

Here is the standard list I send out to people. :) I want to really stress how useful the spray bottle is too. My lord, so useful for keeping the paint wet on the palette.

Acrylic


Cheap set of paint: Which hopefully contains most of these colors: Cadmium Yellow, Cadmium Red, Colbalt or Cerulean Blue (I prefer Cerulean), ultramarine blue, alizarin crimson, zinc or lemon yellow (optionally yellow ochre if you don't get Raw Sienna), burnt umber, titanium white, ivory black.

cheap brushes (these can come in packs...you'll probably want nicer brushes after a while but this is a start): a couple rounds (be sure to have a nice small one), a few square edge (1/4 inch, 1/2 inch, 1 inch), and a couple filberts

a palette: either a gessoed piece of wood, a piece of glass, plastic plates, etc

a spray bottle (so freaking important): helps keep the paint on the palette or surface wet

Gesso: not necessarily required for acrylic (because gesso is made out of acrylic) but paint binds well to gesso and it makes it possible to draw on the surface as well.

canvas, heavy paper, or wood: whatever you want to paint on. If you find pieces of wood just be sure that it is the raw surface and not varnished, covered in oil paint, or laminate.

Matte Medium: Always mix paint with a medium. It helps it have a better consistency and keeps the paint workable longer. They have a whole bunch of different types but matte is pretty standard.

Plastic containers for storage: Why was paint? Store your mixed paint in these

Edit: You may also want some acrylic retarder to make blending a little easier too. Also, titanium white replaced zinc white.

So I've seen a lot of " is this ready" posts and wanted to share my experience.

I bought one of these back in July when I had an auto finishing up and it was great.

Blue Dot Trading 2 in 1 Jewelers Loupe, 30x/60x Magnified Jewlers loupe (jewelers-loupe-30x-60x) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00MMP6VRW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2epFDb8Y7Z4EW

They are super cheap and with the led on you can see the trichs perfectly. I'm still not sure if the trichome colour is the most scientific way to do it, but at 50/50 milky / amber, mine turned out well.

With the loupe you can almost nail it down to the day when to harvest.

Just wanted to share how cheaply and easily you can time your harvest as we approach the end of the season.

Also great for checking out weird growth, diseases and pests if you are unfortunate enough to have them.

Good luck and good growing everyone.

Learn in stages. Right now you need to figure out how big you want to go, and pick out your three fundamental pieces of equipment. Tent, light and blower/filter. First you pick out a tent. Common tent sizes are 2x2, 2x4, 3x3 or 4x4. They will get you around 4oz, 8oz, 8oz, or 16 oz per grow. They will require around 150w, 300w, 300w, or 600w of quality light. Quantum board lights from alibaba.com are an excellent affordable option, but you need to be comfortable ordering from China and putting it together. 315w or 630w CMH lighting is a very good option if you want plug-and-play. CMH runs a little warmer than quantum boards, and fits best in a tall tent. This Active Air 6" is a great blower/filter for a medium-large tent. You can use the 4" version for a small-medium tent.

Oh man I need to get that playmat, but for me it was definitely my addon for Food Chain Magnate. It condenses the game from taking up every inch of a large table, to now being playable on an average or possibly even small table. Plus cleanup and setup takes half the time and it's much easier to keep track of who has what powers.

Runner ups include:

• Kemet - Buying these coin cases to hold all of the power tiles. Now it's so much faster setting up the game, I also have enough to give to each player so they can have their own sleeve of powers. Best part is is that for new players they can just grab the sleeve rather than having to glance over at the power tiles from afar.
  
• Pandemic/Dominant Species - I got these containers to hold all of the disease cubes and species cubes for both games and they work perfectly. My only suggestion would be to get a slightly larger container so it is easier to grab the pieces when they are inside, but the negative to that is that they will not fit in the original box as well.
  
  If I can think of anymore upgrades I'll post them

Yep! Mine is the same way -- fits great during summer but is annoyingly big during winter. I've thought about buying [these things] (https://www.amazon.com/RING-NOODLE-1-Petite-1-Narrow-Adjuster/dp/B00GUTWY5E/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1475253457&sr=8-4&keywords=ring+size+adjuster+for+loose+rings) to help it fit better but haven't bit the bullet yet. Also, congratulations! :-)

I've done both. Here's what I use for chains:

1. Crimps with loops. These go on either end of the chain.
   
   
   
2. Chain. These come in different patterns and widths, so make sure you get the right ones. The width of the crimps needs to be appropriate for the chain.
   
   
   
3. Clasps. There are tons to choose from. Lobster is the most common for chains, but there's also toggle, barrel, magnetic, etc. Just google around until you find what you want.
   
   
   
4. Jump rings, if needed. These might be needed to attach the clasp to the crimps and also to attach your pendants/charms to the chain. Things to note are diameter, thickness, and open vs. closed. Closed is best for hanging onto the chain since there's no gap for the chain to slip through, but closed won't allow you to attach to the pendant unless you're using an open one to go from the pendant to the closed one.
   
   
   
5. Crimper. This is the one I have, but you'll need to make sure whatever you get is the right size for the crimps you're using.
   
   
   
6. Any sort of wire cutter to cut the chain. Scissors don't cut metal. And needle nose pliers to bend the jump rings into place.
   
   
   You're better off getting all these things online. Cheaper and more variety. The links are only examples. Make sure you get what you want!
   
   
   I learned how to do this via how-to videos on YouTube so have a look there. Good luck!
   
   Edit: Saturday morning grammar

Pistils have nothing to do with time frame. You need a loupe. To check the tiny little “diamonds” on the buds. (Not on the sugar leaves)

Some people like to look at pistils, but really the best way to judge is by looking at trichomes. You’re going to want more cloudy, less amber(I wouldn’t do no amber. It’s better to have some amber rather than more clear.)

If you don’t have a loupe I would recommend buying one. It’s like 10-15$ on amazon. one I use, nothing fancy

Edit: from the photo you recently posted, you look like you have a ways to go!

DMSO is also godly for making transdermal ointments.

One wildly successful experiment of mine was using AVB (already-vaped marijuana) to make a cannabinoid ointment. It was incredibly easy: just take the AVB in a finely ground form, add DMSO, and let sit for a week. The DMSO turns a dark green and is incredibly soothing for sore joints and muscles.

DMSO really stings in its raw form, though! I'm not squeamish, so I just put up with it (you only need a paltry amount to get an effect with the AVB ointment) but I know some people react way worse. It seems that DMSO causes a pretty strong histaminergic reaction at the point of contact. If you are prone to skin problems, it will likely resemble a chemical burn for the first hour after application if you don't dilute it.

I'm not sure, but I bet that the cannabinoid ointment could be diluted. It's just a matter of keeping the compounds in solution when they diffuse across the epithelium. I'll have to try that next time I use it.

Because I was driven to make the best, I got this brand off of Amazon. I didn't check for third-party testing, but unlike the other brands this one comes in a glass bottle, which I like more already. It's worked just fine and, while I have no context for it, it seems to be very pure.

I have these nifty stackable containers that you can purchase pretty cheaply but they have saved me so much luggage room and will get me through at least 3 weeks of lotions and potions even though they look small. You can stack as few or many as you like. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006L2UUVA/ref=pd_aw_sims_2?pi=SS115&simLd=1&dpPl=1&dpID=31Wyfd0TrzL

In flight I use a moisturising spray, at the moment a DermaE hyuralonic acid spray but I'm keen to try the Mario badescu one mentioned too. If it's a night flight I sneak in a moisturising sheet mask. People are usually sleeping and if anyone sees you who cares, it is worth it to keep your skin flaking off! In daytime make sure you keep on top of sunscreen application because those UV rays can be brutal through the window.

Seconding this! I got a little plastic 'bar' that sits at the bottom and keeps my ring at the right size. I think I got 5 6 for 10 bucks on amazon? I've also seen ones that are gold/silver (ebay) which might be preferable for some, but I needed it right away so the cheap ones on Amazon prime worked for me! It also loosens slightly over time (and if you bend the plastic a lot - like I did).

Edit: I also found that my ring fit on my finger really well when he first proposed, but was super loose the next day, and changes every day (swelling, ugh) so the non permanency of these really appeals to me!

Link to the one I got: https://www.amazon.ca/RINGO-6-Pack-Invisible-Material-Perfect/dp/B01LWTZC9H/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484688076&sr=8-2&keywords=ringo

When I lost weight, I went on Amazon and bought this. it worked like a charm for me. I have three bands that aren't soldered together, so I just put it on the last band, and never had any issues.

Then of course, once you're ready, go have it sized!

Edit: I didn't see the part about the reason I made the choice I did...

I had gained weight, and also added a 3rd band, so having all 3 made it tight. I sized up, and they fit perfectly. I then lost weight, and because we were going to try to get pregnant again, it didn't make sense to pay $90/ring to get them resized. This was a quick, cheap solution for me, and I'm glad I did it the way I did.

Once I pop this kiddo out, and my swelling goes down/I lose more weight, I will get them resized again to fit..but, I'm guessing that I'm probably a year or more out from hitting my goal weight.

DMSO is a really tricky one. There's a ton of guys selling it as "natural" and "pure" but basically they're buying industrial drums of the stuff an packaging it down in to smaller bottles for profit. From what I understand that Nature's Gift (the one with the tree) does this and they never list the source and/processing. Given that DMSO has to be handled incredibly carefully, you have to be really careful where you get it from. This one seems to get good reviews, although it is expensive. For our uses (which are tiny amounts), I don't see the price being an issue:
http://www.amazon.com/DMSO-99-98-Pharma-Grade-Liquid/dp/B009L6NW4U/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

You're on the right track waiting for summer to make sure your ring is not too tight on hot summer days. Don't rush into resizing it. My fingers change a LOT between summer and winter, and it's better to be too loose than too tight.

Rather than alter the ring just for the season, I wear these in the winter, and they work great.

Once summer rolls around, and you've seen some hot days, bring it into a local jeweler and see what they say. If it's a plain metal band, it should be super easy to resize, and I'd expect it to cost on the order of $100 (or less). If it's got designs carved or stamped into it, or tiny stones, it will be tougher.

Man I wish! Just found out I should have been wearing glasses my whole life. I'm 21 and I play baseball in college 😂 I have both the usb microscope and a loupe and let me be honest, i prefer the loupe.

Happy Hydro LED Loupe 30x & 60x Magnifying Lens - Includes Batteries & Carrying Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M8MDTAN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_b0DKzb5F4GHBA

Something like this may work if it's only a small size difference. https://smile.amazon.com/Adjuster-Invisible-Transparent-Silicone-Tightener/dp/B07G5Z9X4G/

Amazon has a ton of nice looking tungsten and titanium rings for super cheap. I can share some of the ones on my list if you'd like.

I personally found these less annoying than the kind that fit all the way around the band, but if you remove your ring a lot then the kind that stay on the band like the spiral would be better. I'm planning on having my wedding band fitted properly and hopefully just wear it on top so the engagement ring stays put.

heh, diving right in then?

• tines are about 0.08mm apart. Various vendors sell brass sheets, or you can use a feeler-guage. The Pilot Parallel comes with a mylar sheet for flossing tines. I don't actually use this often, but I usually use nice paper that doesn't shed fiber.
  
• magnifier - I like 30x with LED, and use it all the time to check tine alignment, for modifying feeds, etc.
  
• sand paper - woah there. Unless you're grinding nibs you'll want micromesh to do smoothing. I like feedback, but if you want glassy-smooth you can use mylar to put a super-polish on. 12,000 micromesh is probably all you need.

I totally voucher for using these. They come with loads in the pack and I change it out for a new section whenever the plastic starts to turn colors from getting dirty. My hands fluctuate so much throughout the year, between different activities (like cold day at work to doing hot yoga) or even within the normal progression of the day. I have found these to be fantastic and have no complaints. I'm only probably a 1/4 off, but when I tried to my wedding band in addition to the e ring without the plastic loops, it fit perfectly. I don't want to resize my e ring.

Unfortunately the exact one I bought on Amazon is out of stock but look for the same spiral loop. It gives you lots of customization for exactly how much space you need. Much better than the traditional plastic tube, or the metal crimped wire

Ring Size Adjuster with Jewelry Polishing Cloth,2 Sizes Fit for Any Rings,Clear Ring Sizer,Perfect for Loose Rings,Pack of 12 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBUZPZP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jZjYBb8DQST2X

Honestly, it depends on how many repeats you have per row. I use small markers like this when I'm knitting lace and they don't get in my way at all. Jump rings also work well, as long as you make sure to get a size big enough to fit your needles.

Once you get used to marking your work, you won't even notice them (except for when you need to), and it will be immediately obvious when one of your repeats is off.

Yes, I do brush load. :) -- I actually have these little ink pots so it's convenient even if I make too much because it'll be covered. I don't plan on buying any more colors anytime soon because by the rate of my usage, it looks like this primary set will last me quite a while. Your ultramarine suggestion is filed for future purposes, is all. :)

I’m on mobile so I can’t see your whole flair, but if you haven’t reached your goal weight yet I highly recommend getting some ring size adjusters like these: www.amazon.com/dp/B07G5Z9X4G/ in the meantime!

I considered getting my e-ring resized when I was 10lbs away from my goal weight and I’m glad I didn’t because I lose another half-size with those 10lbs!

316L is my goto but 316 is excellent as well and less springy. I get mine from Amazon or Fasttech.

You can also try a welding supply store if you have one local.

EMTS are awesome!! :)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0098UVTSK/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_ap_am_us?ie=UTF8

Hide and seek! I found you! This is less than $3 and has free shipping.

Awesome contest!

u/SandraRosner has offered good advice on this issue.
I would go with clear silicone ring size adjuster, not metal ones. Here's acouple from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Anpro-Adjuster-Sizes-Clear-Resizer/dp/B073FDFLSF/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540226182&sr=8-3&keywords=ring+size+adjuster


and


https://www.amazon.com/Invisible-Adjuster-Loose-Rings-Assorted/dp/B07C15P2F7/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1540226182&sr=8-4&keywords=ring+size+adjuster

i can easily see the blue line with one of these, which fit on a keychain

http://www.amazon.com/SE-Loupe-Set-Dual-10x/dp/B001C9LG60/ref=pd_sim_op_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0P8J0B8YSF68S4GM553V

loupes also effective in seeing the blue line in a stack of 100 or so cards very quickly

This loupe is super affordable and honestly I’m a huge fan, don’t have any issues seeing tric’s with her. I’ve heard this slightly higher priced loupe ($16 usd) is a bit better but I really don’t mind my cheaper loupe one bit!

OP... I've been using this 26ga 316L wire purchased on Amazon and it works very well.

I actually prefer to use it in Power Mode, but the vape quality is fantastic.

I generally do too, I just dont paying premium price or not getting exactly what I want because its out of stock or they dont carry that exact model. The loupes I could find locally were either way less power than they were stated for, or the lense was so small it was difficult to see as much as I wanted too, more the size of the 60x lense on the one I linked.

This is the Loupe I picked up, was there in under 24 hrs, its not amazing but it does what I need it too well and the price is amazing.

https://www.amazon.ca/KINGMAS-Illuminated-Jewelers-Magnifier-Magnifying/dp/B00KMSE100/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=jewelers+loupe&qid=1564073738&s=gateway&sprefix=jewelers+&sr=8-3

Haha, OK then look up elastic cord. Here's an amazon example

I think [49x69 is the biggest one] (https://www.amazon.com/Perler-80-30105-Beads-Classic-Superpegboard/dp/B005IP77G2/). (standard is 29x29). Make sure you use the masking tape method, because reading the reviews it looks like the big board is more sensitive to heat and warps easier.

Awesome !

Get some ring sizers like these and keep them handy. I had a friend who lost quite a bit of weight and before she even thought of it, her ring slipped off her finger and I don't think she ever found it again. https://smile.amazon.com/Adjuster-Invisible-Transparent-Silicone-Tightener/dp/B07G5Z9X4G/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=ring+sizers+for+loose+rings+women&qid=1572872233&s=instant-video&sprefix=ring+sizer&sr=8-7

Sorry for the wall-o-link. I'm not great with reddit formatting yet. I'll get the hang of it eventually. I just don't know where to practice.

You might consider a folding hand lens.. Very cheap and useful for looking at little details (e.g. head scales) in all sorts of critters and other nature nuggets.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AKYYSCM/ref=shptrk_scth these ones. The Meow ones are the 5 gram, I think? The acrylic case came with these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0036C0RT8/ref=shptrk_scth which I would NOT recommend. The threads on the lids don't really match up half of the time and quite a few lids were cracked and wouldn't close at all. The case is super nice though.

In my noob grower's opinion, looks like it could possibly fill out a bit more... maybe keep feeding over the next week and then flush to completion?

Most importantly invest in a loupe to take out a lot of the guess work. Here is the cheapest I could find, that still has both 30 and 60x magnification! KINGMAS Jewelry Loupe 2-Lens 30x 60x Jewelers Eye Loupes Magnifier LED Illuminated Magnifying https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KMSE100/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_DsN1MbbVvz3T8

This is the one I got, and it's served me well so far. There's probably better ones, but it should show that you definitely won't break the bank.

You can get 100yd of this for about $14 (though I haven't ever bought it before, I plan on it soon. It's sold by the company that kandipatterns.com suggests.)

As far as beads go I'm not really sure myself, but Amazon definitely doesn't seem like a bad place to get everything.

Yes, take a friend with you to Michaels and use the 50% coupon. You can walk in and out and use it multiple times. I don’t recommend buying the “magic string” from there tho. I recommend the elastic one from amazon. It’s stretchy but doesnt snap or fall apart.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GPTDB6?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title

This or this can help with your ring until your weight stabilizes and you can get it resized. :)

The hair method is pretty unreliable, it varies from strain to strain. Just get one of these 30x jewelers loupes and look at the heads of the trichomes. When they seem at least 50% amber, 50% cloudy is a good time to harvest.

I bought this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036C0RT8/ref=oh_details_o00_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. The jars don't come with sisters but that doesn't bother me. It does have a little tray that all the jars sit in which is nice for storage.

Here's a temporary fix until you want to do something permanent.

Ring Size Adjuster with Jewelry Polishing Cloth,2 Sizes Fit for Any Rings,Clear Ring Sizer ,Perfect for Loose Rings,Pack of 12(2mm/3mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBUZPZP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_EcNYzbBZAB7VN

I use these -- they screw together so you can adjust how tall they are, and there're wide ones and smaller ones for different minis. They're not too expensive and they work pretty well!

https://www.amazon.com/Darice-Round-Caddy-Stacks-Count/dp/B006L2UUVA/

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

https://smile.amazon.com/Exclusive-Wellness-Club-Odorless-99-995/dp/B009L6NW4U

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

Get those silicone ring sizers to keep it fitting until you're ready to resize it. Something like this....
https://www.amazon.com/Invisible-Adjuster-Loose-Rings-Assorted/dp/B07C15P2F7

Yeah I have two similar to this. Yeah I guess I'm waiting until I hit my goal weight, realistically I probably won't have to because I don't think I can lose much more in my hands. They are the lankiest piece of me right now.

I ordered mine from an eBay seller that has since sold out. origin Vape has the UD branded wire in stock. They are a reputable site but there are probably better deals out there. Many people use the Beadalon brand sold at craft stores.

Bracelet

Garfield loves lasagna! but no one makes a better one then I do

This is the one i got in case you did get one that doesnt work 😔


Happy Hydro - LED Loupe - 30x & 60x Magnifying Lens - Includes Batteries & Carrying Case https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01M8MDTAN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_otQDDbTHKYA0R

Solid choice. Cheap too. I have this one and am blown away how good it works for the price.

Here is the loupe I use, it has a built in light and blacklight too: https://www.amazon.com/Illuminated-Magnifier-Construction-Kare-Kind/dp/B00YBHQ7X2/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1521233001&sr=8-6&keywords=jewelers+loupe&dpID=41kfrmUFCkL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

The cover started getting wobbly after ~2 years of use, but other than that works really well!

The "normal" boards (29x29) link together, so you can go pretty much as big as you have space for. All of these particular items fit on one board each, except for one column on Pop. Otherwise there is this giant board:

https://www.amazon.com/Perler-80-30105-Beads-Classic-Superpegboard/dp/B005IP77G2

This is about the size of 2x3 normal boards. An issue here is the size allows it to warp pretty easily while you are ironing. This can be nice for bigger pieces, but plan on using masking tape to lift it off the board before ironing. Another downside is these don't link together, so you if you need bigger, you are stuck using that many more smaller boards.

Just to throw it in, I found the board that comes on the iPad app kit is something like 27x33, so in some cases (like Pop), I could use that and not have to use two boards or the giant one. Downside is that it has handles that get in the way of ironing. I may just cut/snap them off.

https://www.amazon.com/Perler-80-22671-Beads-i-Pegboard/dp/B009MRLVQE

Jump ring - your basic ring.

Split ring - basically a mini key ring, and will provide a more secure hold for your key. Both can be found in any craft store, in the jewelry/beading section.

I use one of the 30x ones from this set, you could probably find one individually for $6 or so. 30x vs. 40x or 60x may not matter much for you. They're really common and there's nothing particularly special about that set. I already had them because they're also really useful for working with tiny electronics. :) It works to hold it to the lens on my phone, too.

When I started growing cannabis I tried getting one of the adjustable hand microscopes, but I found it much harder to use that the loupes I already had unless I cut buds off the plant and held them flat.

I got the Perler Superboard on Thursday. I'm learning a lot, like not ironing on the board because it warps, and how to use the masking tape method.

https://www.amazon.com/Exclusive-Wellness-Club-Odorless-99-995/dp/B009L6NW4U

thats PHARMA grade DMSO, i could fit 1000mg clonazolam into a 30ml vial correct?

Just for ease of access.

$10 amazon$10 amazon

Maybe something like this?

Don't waste your money on those expensive magnifiers. This is really all you need. Maybe 40 or 50x but any higher will be too hard to keep stable and at this level you will be able to see all you need to.

Ring guards! Buy them on Amazon. I got mine and it had like 12 long coils and i thought I wouldn't need that much because I only have 1 ring too big, but I think I will need most of them. I have to take my wedding/engagement bands every 6 months for cleaning and I'm going to have to replace them each time. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NBUZPZP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As a temporary solution, there are plastic ring "size adjusters" you can wear. Here's one example, here's another example.

the one i got from amazon works well.

I use the same one - it's also very easy to hold against your phone's camera and take pictures with.

Same one but a couple bucks more because Prime: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00MMP6VRW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1

Silver Jump Rings!

destruction is a form of creation

Thanks for the contest!

Since LV was sold out of 316 when I ordered my cuboid, I ordered this. It's obnoxious that it doesn't have a spool, but other than that, it's been working fairly well.

Here is the link to the Canadian Amazon, same thing but skips the duty and import fees.

So is this stuff G-Plat?

try this. it's what i use plus it's way cheaper.

http://www.amazon.com/White-Elastic-Cord-100yd-Medium/dp/B000GPTDB6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1410220762&sr=8-5&keywords=elastic+cord

Most coin collectors I know use a loupe. Here is a very affordable one that lights up and is 40x magnification. It's the same type and specifics that I use, just a different brand.

KINGMAS Illuminated Jeweler's Eye... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00KMSE100?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Yes! It's so cute. It came a teensie bit tarnished, but it cleaned right up.

Kandi bracelets are made up of beads that you string together yourself. Think of children's jewelry, specifically called pony beads, alphabet beads, and elastic string.

Pony Beads

Alphabet Beads

Elastic String

Couple 26 gauge still left on Amazon still

Here you go

https://www.amazon.ca/KINGMAS-Illuminated-Jewelers-Magnifier-Magnifying/dp/B00KMSE100/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=jewlers+loop&qid=1562034529&s=gateway&sprefix=jewler&sr=8-2

loupe

Use this with my iPhone

https://www.amazon.ca/Happy-Hydro-Loupe-Magnifying-Lens/dp/B01M8MDTAN/ref=asc_df_B01M8MDTAN/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292998552471&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1569126630693903932&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1002305&hvtargid=pla-316100924577&psc=1 **buy this

https://www.amazon.com/KINGMAS-Jewelers-Magnifying-Illuminated-Magnifier/dp/B00KMSE100/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_229_lp_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=S6NBKEQSYY08C79NE766

https://www.amazon.com/KINGMAS-Jewelers-Magnifying-Illuminated-Magnifier/dp/B00KMSE100/ref=asc_df_B00KMSE100/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167150790864&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=934295075176505510&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1027632&hvtargid=pla-308555913491&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XPQVVLZ/ref=sspa_mw_detail_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Necklace would work - or, there's these: http://www.amazon.com/RING-NOODLE-1-Petite-1-Narrow-Adjuster/dp/B00GUTWY5E...

For the clumsy Real Runners^TM out there.

https://www.amazon.com/Invisible-Adjuster-Loose-Rings-Assorted/dp/B07C15P2F7/ref=sr\_1\_4?keywords=ring+resizers&qid=1569843651&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Here ya go. You might have to do a search for other gauges but that's the exact listing I bought mine under

Safe? Doesn't say uncoated but other people have used it.

I use [these] (https://smile.amazon.com/Darice-Round-Caddy-Stacks-Count/dp/B006L2UUVA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521088347&sr=8-1&keywords=bead+organizer+stackable) stackable bead/pill organizers with about a month of food in them and refrigerate the rest.

They have plastic or metal thingys that you can put on rings to make them smaller Example

SE - Loupe Set - Dual 10x+20x, 10x, 30x, 3 Pc - MJ361830C https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001C9LG60/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_7l-IwbFE08DGC

This is what I was using, just black. Elastic string.

I've purchased this a couple times https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GPTDB6/ and it's very durable, I've never had the cord break for anything, including some kandi handcuffs me and my bf wear to raves together.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001R8I5T2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Funny that you mention that, last saturday, i was looking for a decent tardis pattern and couldnt find one i was satisfied with. I'm sadly limited as far as size goes because i have the big one piece peg board
The few places here in Montreal who sell that stuff only had this one and not the little squares you can connect. I wanted to do a majora's mask too but again, limited by pegboard size :(.

I have a combination of these and these. Avoid the latter! I didn't find out until after I ordered the 50 pack that the bottom of the jars is indented - it means if you try to stick a label on the bottom, it gets all scrunched up and wrinkled :(

IMO the trick is to find a felt where the fibers arent too tight, but not open weave either.

Now this story will probably reveal me for the geek I am but whatever - I spent some time at a Michaels with one of these looking at the architecture of different felt and foam sheets. There was a typical Michaels sales person (if you have ever been to the store, you know the type) who spent about 5 minutes staring at me with increasing curiosity and concern until she could no longer control herself - she came up to me and in an agitated whisper said "WTF are you doing?"

I tried to explain but it was no use, it was obvious that she thought I was a complete asshat :-)