(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best bike drivetrain components

Hey guys I am looking for input on my current build. Tried to post earlier but it got removed without telling me why.

I originally bought the basic parts in fall of 2018 which included:

19" GT Agressor Pro from Dick's Sporting - $295

27.5" Conversion Kit 35MPH from LeafBike.com - $508.13

52v 14s9p-pf 25.7AH Triangle Battery Pack from EM3ev.com - $827.4

Rear Cargo Rack from Amazon - $25.99

SKS Velo Snap-on Fenders from Amazon - $21.65

BikeHand Toolkit from Amazon - $49.99

Shimano HG41 from Amazon - $16.70

Torque Arm from Amazon - $16.50

Park fr52 from REI - $7.15

Tire Liner from REI - $17

Tubes from Walmart - $20

Total $1825.51

Hot Damn! Never actually did the math that is quite a bit more than i thought it cost, I'm a little embarrassed I've been telling people that it cost around $1300 lol boy the shipping and tax just kills you!

Anyways it all arrived without issue (Thank goodness) and I put it together (minus the pedal assist due to a crank removal fiasco) with some difficulty as a number of things required modification to work. That rear wheel is an absolute biatch to install. I have had an absolute blast with it both on and off road since then. Only major gripe is with the controller, hella loud and super weak regen breaking.

Just recently decided to do some additional tweaking with the bike. Went on another spending spree over at Aliexpress. Ended up buying the following parts:

Pedals - $21.45

Longer Handlebar - $8.80

External Bearing Bottom Bracket and Cranks - 32.66

Four Pairs of Brake Pads - 5.29

3-Button switch - $27.49

Handlebar Grips - $2.66

Torque Arm - $8.35

Left hand thumb Throttle - $5.67

Lights DC 12v-48v - 20.89

42 tooth Chain ring - 17.60

Pannier - 30.51

1xSchwalbe MTB 27.5 2.25 - 50

Total $231.44

Already installed new bottom bracket and pedal assist (with some modification lol) and its amazing!

I am about to start getting into the electronics so i figured i would ask for advice before i solder everything up in case you guys come up with a better way to do things.

Anywho I am getting rid of those handle grips with the twist throttle in favor of a left handed throttle, this will allow me to shift on the rear cassette a lot easier. Then its on to replacing the super cheap switch (cruise, regen, reverse) with the Aliexpress switch (cruise, horn, lights, gonna short regen for always on) and add lights. Considering adding another on/off point for security but cant think of a great way to do that... Right now i have the BMS on/off at the battery itself (momentary switch) and the power on the LCD display itself.

Also anyone have a line on a cheap controller with strong regen breaking and sin wave fets? I see the ebikes.ca but looks like that requires cycle analyst v3 for pedal assist which doesnt seem to display information nicely plus itll cost around 265 for both...

I have a 2018 Trail 6 that I got last November and really love and it's been a great bike to learn on. I have ended up doing a lot of upgrading on and there are some idiosyncrasies to the Trail series that I wish I would have known.

First big upgrade was the dropper post, and that's been awesome. You can internally route a dropper on the Trail series so just find a good deal on a dropper that you like and you're good to go. I was able to get a KS Lev Si used for $100 and it's been solid.

Putting the dropper on prompted me to want to get rid of the front derailleur/shifter and go 1x. I ended up ordering this chainring as the FSA cranks have a weird chainring size. Thankfully I was at a friend's house to help me because FSA does a little proprietary thing with their chainrings and he ended up having to grind a bit around the bolt holes (the flat part towards the center of the circle) to get them to fit. The other thing is that the rear derailleur didn't have a clutch so my friend suggested running the chain a little smaller than stock to keep from dropping the chain. I ran it like that from January to July and never dropped a chain. It also helps that I was intending to upgrade the rear derailleur within the year, definitely not a long term plan as it would wear a lot faster.

So, if you're really set on going 1x, my advice would be to do the cranks and bottom bracket too unless you have access to a grinder and someone competent to use it. I ended up installing a Shimano XT bottom bracket and a used set of XT cranks/chainring this summer and have been really happy with them. I don't know that I can actually feel the difference, but they are lighter for sure. I also upgraded to an 11 speed SLX cassette, derailleur, and shifter and have really loved having the bigger gears (46T) on the hills (also went from a 30T chainring to a 32T).

The other thing to consider is the tool cost if you're doing it yourself. You'll need a tool to pull the square taper cranks and another one to pull the bottom bracket. Then you'll need a new one to install a Hollowtech BB. And you'll want a cable cutter for the upgrade to a 11 speed too.

I've been tracking stock and upgraded parts here, feel free to ask about any other upgrades you're planning on.

I built up a Disc Trucker last spring. I stuck closely to Surly's build in the gearing department as it mainly is a touring bike. I went 9-speed because the chains are a touch more durable and when you get into 10-speed, Shimano's road and mountain offerings start having some incompatibilities. With a 9-speed drivetrain, you can mix and match road and mountain to whatever extent you like.

I actually have two different gearing setups. One for true touring with a mountain rear derailleur and an 11-34 cassette and another with a road rear derailleur and a 12-26 cassette.

Here's relevant parts off my list:

|Part|Model|Other|Notes|
|:---|:---|:---|:---|
|Crankset|Shimano Deore M590|175mm arm length|Has the trekking gearing 26/36/48 and Hollowtech because why not.|
|Rear cassette|SRAM PG-950|11-34 for touring, 12-26 for commuting|Yes, as far as casettes go, it's a heavy bugger. But when we're talking about LHTs, who really cares overly much about weight? As a side note, you'd need a mountain derailleur to use the 11-34, but you'd be just fine with the 12-26 for your 105.|
|Shifters|Shimano Dura-Ace 9-speed bar-end||If you're using this for touring, I'd recommend the bar ends. Otherwise, get whatever brifters you like, use a couple of Travel Agents and get some V-brakes.|
|Brake levers|Tektro RL520|Long-pull|Those guys are long pull, so they work with V-brakes and mountain-pull disc brakes. Ergonomics are decent, if a tad too pointy for my tastes.|
|Handlebars|Salsa Bell Lap||No longer being produced, sadly.|
|Saddle|Brooks Champion Flyer||I've put thousands and thousands of miles on this saddle. Love it. It's a little heavy if you're doing light commuting. For daily commuting and touring, though, it's hard to beat.|
|Pedals|Shimano M520||They're pretty low on the totem pole as far as component level, but I've had nary a problem with multiple sets. Clipless that won't break the bank.|
|Chain|SRAM PC-951||It's a cheaper chain more than adequate for commuting and touring.|

All the drivetrain stuff is 9-speed, but you can find the 10-speed equivalents rather easily. In your case, if you're not setting off across the country or across the world on your LHT, I'd say go for a set of brifters. If you want to go 9-speed, I'd look for an older set of Ultegra shifters. For 10-speed, I'd keep it 105 or above...or Rival or above for SRAM. SRAM has a lot more tactile feedback on the shifts while Shimano tends to be smoother. I prefer SRAM, but to each their own. Bar-ends are great and low maintenance, but not being able to shift from the hoods can get a little annoying after a while.

As to online retailers, a lot of parts can be had reasonably from Amazon. I also use Jenson USA. They ship fast, have free shipping on orders above $50, and price match on parts. I use Nashbar occasionally, but their shipping department is woefully slow and I avoid buying from them whenever possible.

Here's some of the parts I used when I converted my Schwinn, I don't know the year or model of yours so there may be some slight differences, but but the way your frame is constructed I know they're close

Bottom bracket conversion: https://harriscyclery.net/product/truvativ-bottom-bracket-conversion-american-to-euro-adapter-1335.htm

Crank Parts:
https://www.amazon.com/Sugino-Single-Speed-165mm-130mm/dp/B0068S1YH6/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1510250991&sr=1-1&keywords=sugino+crankset&dpID=41uvhXCdn2L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G37X5Y/ref=twister_B00RNFQ79I?th=1&psc=1

You'll also need a new rear wheel, you can buy a new wheelset but I kept the front to keep the budget down. If you choose to keep the front, look for a 27" rear wheel, just make sure it has a flip flop hub.

Also, consult your local bike shop! you mileage may vary, but my LBS is filled with fixie goons that are more than happy to help you find parts. They may have used parts that'll save you some money.

i've got a franken-gravel bike that's like this - i took the big chainring off and put the small one on the outermost side of the crank (where the big one was) to help keep the chain line straight.

if you can manage to find a 'narrow-wide' chain ring - it's a solid investment, helps to keep the chain on.

I don't have a front der, so I used this (https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Torqlite-UL-Chain-Guide/dp/B008ZTLV9W/ref=pd_rhf_ee_s_rp_c_0_9?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B008ZTLV9W&pd_rd_r=2b612691-9413-4481-b9a3-7bdbcd0d8d19&pd_rd_w=Gk3jV&pd_rd_wg=9HtN6&pf_rd_p=87f46b45-938f-430f-a8e4-ecf1b1b39902&pf_rd_r=4H18PQ2X8TQ7MSQ0KK85&psc=1&refRID=4H18PQ2X8TQ7MSQ0KK85) in conjunction with the narrow-wide ring to keep the chain from bouncing off

it's a great idea - consider a mountain bike cassette and a small chainring to help you with the climbs. The big thing I have to deal with is not shifting under load, when the chain comes off - it's off. Without the front der. there's nothing to help you get the chain back on the ring without stopping and doing it with your hands

Wonderful, it sounds like great upgrade. I was looking at something like this chain. I assume this will require the removal of some links to fit?

I scored this Rockhopper for $50! Now I’m looking to modernize pretty much the whole thing. Please critique my build list below. Would you get anything different, or better, or maybe anything else that would be better value? Did I miss anything? Do you think all of this will work together? It will be my adventure bike for bike packing, gravel, off road touring.

FOMTOR 25.4 stem 60mm 35 Degree Bike Handlebar Stem Riserhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G71CZG6

UPANBIKE Road Mountain Bike Bicycle Stem Riser Adapter 1 1/8" φ22.2mm https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LLR8PR

Action 1-1/8" W/Adjuster Black Cable Hanger Fronthttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XCSKWCQ

KMC X9L 9 Speed Chain Gold Coatedhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789HPV7M

Wheel Set 26 x 1.5, Mavic x M117, Deore M530 9Sp Hub, Blk SS Spokes, 32Hhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0033H53VI

Shimano Deore 9-Speed Mountain Bicycle Rear Derailleur - RD-M591https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OWPRLI

Maxxis DTH 26 X 2.15 60A Kevlar Blackhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XIT4YS

XCSOURCE MTB Mountain Bike Crankset Aluminum Bicycle Crank Sprocket and Bottom Bracket Kit 170mm CS400https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWXUV7I

RaceFace 104mm Single Chain Ringhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3FG6ZW

​

Edit: Adding Shifters and Cassette

SHIMANO Deore SL-M590 9-Speed Shift Lever
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKVJF8Y/

JGbike Sunrace 8 9 10 Speed MTB Cassette 11-40T 1 Wide Ratio Including 22mm Extender - for SRAM Shimano-Type splined freehub Body
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRLWHEO

BB standards and headest standards are retarded as fuck.

Brief lesson on BBs:

• Basically, most common standard that was on most bikes is the threaded bottom bracket, with a shell width (ie the left right edge to edge distance of the hole that holds the bottom bracket) of either 68 or 73mm. 68 was common for road bikes, while 73 was common for mtb. You would get something like this, which you would thread into the hole from one side and the cup from the other, and then mount the cranks.
  
  
• Shimano then figured out that you can make the cranks stronger by having bearings wider from each other. So what they did is made a threaded bottom bracket, except the bearings would sit in the external cups. The inner diameter of the BB is 24mm, designed for the 24mm crank spindles, (known as Shimano Hollowtech2). Note that the distance from the inner edges of the cups is 73mm as the wider standard is use on most mountain bikes, and the BB comes with the spacers to make it fit a 68mm width shell for the road or smaller width bikes (some modern dirt jumpers use a 68mm shell). However, the cups themselves are about ~10mm wide.
  
  
• Then bike makers found out that you can make the system even stiffer if you make the cups go in the frame, and thus was born the concept of press fit bottom bracket. Because the cup width was integrated into the shell, the shell width grew by about 20mm (the width of the 2 cups as before). So a bike with the 68 mm shell grew to the 86-90 mm range, and the bike with the 93mm shell grew to the 92-95mm range.
  
  
• The first way of doing the press fit bottom brackets was simply pressing the bearings into the shell. This is the BB90/95 standard and is the widest because of the support structure needed for the bearing. The bearings would be pressed in and fit flush into the frame.
  
  
• The next iteration of that was to include a sealed bearing type that was placed in cups from the factory, and these cups would be press fit into the frame. The cups themselves have a small ~2mm lip on them that acts a stopper against the shell edge when you push them in, so the shell width got smaller for these bottom brackets. So the BB95 became the PF92 (which is what yours is, sometimes called BB92), and the BB90 became the PF86. The advantage of this is that the unit was a sealed type, which meant less contamination, and the cups took up the compression stresses, which means less of a chance of overpressing the bearing during installation, which would lead to a reduce bearing life.
  
  http://problemsolversbike.com/files/tech/Bottom_Bracket_Standards_Reference.pdf
  
  So to answer your question, most shimano hollowtech2 crank will fit, as it is 24 mm and is the correct width for all of the above. The replacement bottom bracket from shimano for yours is called the shimano xt m800 press fit bottom bracket. A lot of them will say shell width of 68/73mm, which is fine because the "true" shell width from bearing to bearing is still 68/73mm.
  

If the pins and internals of the chain are rusted, when the rust is removed there will be some slop. I do agree that if the whole drivetrain is worn, your better off just freeing the chain so you don't have to replace the cassette too. But if the cassette isn't worn, I'd just replace the chain.

Without getting into the LBS debate, I buy chains online. My old LBS charged $40 for an 8 speed chain. They're less than $10 online. I'm not gonna make my college student friends pay $30 extra to support the LBS. $10 speed chains have a similar markup as well. I find many shops don't carry the basic KMC chains which I prefer.

http://www.amazon.com/KMC-7-8sp-chain-Silver-Brown/dp/B001CN6QA2/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1413374754&sr=1-1&keywords=8+speed+chain

http://www.amazon.com/KMC-10-Speed-116-Links-Bicycle-28-Inch/dp/B001AYOP9M/ref=sr_1_11?s=cycling&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1413374848&sr=1-11&keywords=10+speed+chain

The omnomnomiums are certainly worthy of the hype, just make sure you've got a frame that's worthy of them. Messengers are great too, especially if you don't want to spend all that cash and have a huge disparity between the quality of some parts in your build. Honestly any sealed shimano BB between $30-$50 will work absolutely fine for many, many miles. This one is a good option, but I use Eighthinch's and haven't experienced any problems in 2,000 miles.

FIFTY FIVE DOLLARS for a dummy hub!?!?!? That's a pretty impressive markup for adding some green anodized aluminum and a logo. Some people will buy anything.

A Pedro's Chain Keeper does exactly the same thing for about 12 bucks, and will probably last your lifetime ... even if you clean your chain several times a day.

You want something like this.

You can run with just the middle crank ring for now, but I'd get a real single ring. The chain will retain a lot better, as the teeth are a lot taller. Plus it will weigh a fraction of what the steel ring on your cranks weigh. My shimano middle 32T ring weighs as much as 4 or 5 of the race face rings I have. Once you're already setup single ring, they only take a minute to change out. Just unbolt and slip over the crank arms.

Most likely you want a 32T x 104mm, 104 being the spacing on your middle ring bolt pattern. The ring will probably be $25-$30 depending on what you get, and where. There are plenty of brands to choose from, just search 32T x 104 single ring on amazon and pick one! Race Face, Vuelta, Blackspire, e.13. Any of them are fine.

Single Ring, tight chain and N-gear Jump Stop will keep your chain where it belongs through any rough stuff. Edit - nevermind, saw you got an MRP chain retainer!

Here's a pic of my bike with the chain shortened, in the large rear cog. You can see the RD's cage angle.

Sweet. So I am going to go with the 130mm spaced hub you linked above along with this cassette with 34 teeth to help with those mountains, this derailleur with the longer lever to work with the larger cassette, and this 6/7/8 speed chain. Let's hope it all works together!

perfect! thanks. is sunlite any good?

sort of unrelated: If im only using the rear 5 gears and 1 in front on my 10 speed, then could I get a chain that is meant for a 5-8 speed and then not use my full range? 10 speed chains are stupidly expensive. im looking at this shimano cn-hg70 right now.

The gears on the back wheel are the cassette (the gears in the front are the chain rings).

A cassette with a wide range of gears has a very small gear (fast but harder to turn) and a very big gear (slow but easy to get up hills). In 9 speed cassettes, a wide range would be 11 teeth through 36 teeth. For example, this one.

If you're struggling with hills, a cassette with a larger gear will make it easier to make it up the hills. Road bikes usually have a smaller range of gears vs. hybrids or mountain bikes ... so to answer your question, no, a road bike probably won't help with getting over hills more easily. Also, a new cassette, at about $25, is easier on your budget. It will require some specialty tools to install so it might make sense to have your local bike shop install it for you (probably another $25).

Cartridge bearing BBs are slightly more difficult to work with, they require a large adjustable crescent wrench and a splined tool that engages with the cartridge cups. Sometimes the cups require quite a bit of force to remove. The right hand cup is reverse threaded, so be sure to remember to wrench in the opposite direction you think.

Pull the BB out and either take it to your LBS for them to measure, or just use a ruler or calipers to measure the spindle going through the BB from end-to-end. I'd expect something like 113-118mm in length. Shimano makes a cheap square taper cartridge BB that replaces that one and is pretty ubiquitous and will mate up with your crank easily. I've found that the quality of those FSA units is poor so you can call it an upgrade!

Check out this page for a really in-depth guide!

edit: left for right

Thats the 112 link x10 10 speed chain with the connector link removed, leaving 111 links. I'm leaving the Amazon link below. They're buying this and removing the connector and selling it for the original price but as an 11 speed chain. Wow. Also it's out of stock. Maybe they got reported.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001AYOP9M/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?qid=1466225022&sr=8-16&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=kmc+11+speed+chain&dpPl=1&dpID=41-A4hwdBrL&ref=plSrch

Ya you either need a new 700c rear wheel or to lace a new rim to the current hub. . Not sure if your bike has a cassette or a freewheel. It says 6 speed gearing so my money is on a 6 speed freewheel. If that’s the case you need a wheel set up for a freewheel and also a freewheel remover if you are gonna do it yourself.

I’m gonna throw an upgrade at you to consider.

29er wheelset (same size as 700c but called 29er because it’s a mountain bike rim.)

Mountain bike wheels are a little beefier and will take more punishment. This one is cheap and comes with tires already.

Mavic Rim 29er Mountain Bike Wheels with Disc Brake Shimano Hubs PLUS Free Continental 29x2.2" Race King Tires and Tubes! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HDTR27Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SlF9AbR7A1F1B

9 speed cassette
Shimano HG400 9 Speed Mountain Bike Cassette - CS-HG400-9 (11-36) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073CFBPF9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_boF9Ab48BVPKH

SRAM X.5 Rear Trigger Shifter for 9 Speed Drivetrains, Black, 9 Speed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0063HG45Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bpF9AbA9TRZ94

SRAM X5 Medium Cage Silver 9 Speed Rear Derailleur https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00554231U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QqF9AbC18FV41

KMC KMC023 X9.93 Bicycle Chain (9-Speed, 1/2 x 11/128-Inch, 116L, Silver/Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AYJF2E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lrF9AbDFWEG5T

So basically $280 would get you new wheels that are tougher and come with bigger cushier tires, and allow you to upgrade to disc brakes in the future. Also we’re scraping the terrible 6 speed freewheel and upgrading to a 9 speed cassette. It will shift better, give you better low end torque and high end speed. The wheel set also allows you to upgrade to 10, 11 or even 12 speed but 9 should be sufficient.

I've always thought that the entry level pearl pedals were pretty sweet. Haven't played the most recent ones, but I've heard good things about them.

perhaps this:

https://www.amazon.com/Sugino-Single-Speed-165mm-130mm/dp/B0068S1YH6/

but square taper, you can put anything you like on there. why do you want a 130mm BCD? you wanna change rings, you can probably get whatever ring you want for a 110bcd just fine.

Think this guy will work? I hope so because that’s what I ordered...
Sunlite Easy Off Single Freewheel, 18T x 3/32" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L9CASC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_UutOBbVJGGYA3

Yes. I like fidgetland toys, have a few "Noah" and similar I bought as well as bunch of home made "chainey" (just need this chain and a chain tool I already had for working on my bike). I also really like my thinket (just got the cheapest plastic one) and my fidget cube , but they're a bit noisier and distracting to others if anyone is around.

I have fidget cubes and spinners, and don't find either one as useful for me.

nice thanks. whats the bb spindle length on http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DTIG9U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

shimano 55?

It would be preferred if you got a chainring designed for the same speed as the rest of your drivetrain.

But, considering replacement FC-M361 full cranksets are super cheap on Amazon, I wouldn't bother with just the ring if you could find the right one.

http://amzn.com/B00288JWH4

It's a great bike for the price. For what it's worth, I've done plenty of loaded touring in mountains with similar gear ratios (compact crank with 11-28t cassette). Others will say your lowest gear ratio (1.2) isn't low enough for mountainous touring. Depends on your strength and how much you're carrying.

To get it lower, you can buy an 11-34t cassette which will bring you down to a 1.0 ratio.

However, I'm not sure the derailleur it comes with will fit an 11-34t cassette. If it doesn't, you'll need a mountain bike rear derailleur like this.

In short, you're looking at $30 or $70 to upgrade to a traditional low touring gear ratio, not including labor.

Judging by your chain rings, this is an older bike. In the past few years, chain stops have been introduced to prevent this from happening. I use one (N-Gear) and have had very few problems since it was installed. The newer ones (if they are more carefully adjusted) may even work better. Links to three chain stoppers on Amazon are provided below. Your local bike shop may also be able to help. Adjusting your stops on your front derailleur to its most conservative setting (that still works) will help.


http://www.amazon.com/N-Gear-Chain-Guide-Watcher-34-9mm/dp/B0029LKXPA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1348718647&sr=8-1&keywords=chain+stop


or


http://www.amazon.com/Third-Eye-Bicycle-Chainwatcher-Universal/dp/B000AO3HO2/ref=pd_sbs_sg_1

or

http://www.amazon.com/Redline-Cyclo-Cross-Chain-Keeper-31-8mm/dp/B001398H8O/ref=pd_sbs_sg_3

I love a quiet chain so, this and this.

I'm learning a lot thanks. Yeah I don't think .3mm will lead to major problems one way or another and I don't think the chain will randomly snag then jump even if the chain isn't lined up because of the larger chainrings being on the outside, meaning the chain would at worst be angled across and above the smaller chainrings of the crankset as the chain runs toward the singlespeed freewheel.

Thanks for the size of the 7 speed chain. I was able to search 3/32" singlespeed freewheel and found this item on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Easy-Off-Single-Freewheel/dp/B003L9CASC/ref=sr_1_cc_5?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1468904959&sr=1-5-catcorr&keywords=single+speed+freewheel+3%2F32

Do you more or less suspect it will be compatible with this crankset? https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Acera-28-38-48t-Square-without/dp/B002P71OC4/ref=sr_1_8?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1468828113&sr=1-8&keywords=48t+chain+wheel#Ask

You've helped so much. Here is a picture of my bike so far. Just waiting on loads of other parts to arrive. https://postimg.org/image/todz6lobn/

Thanks,
Al

Here's the fanciest chain Shimano makes for 6/7/8 speed drivetrains, and it's under $20 with free shipping from the Walmart of the web: https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-ICNHG71116I-Shimano-CN-HG71-8-Speed/dp/B00N3R30WC/

yes im probably gonna go for that. is this it? the price, quality and everything, does it seem right?

So something like this in the 68x110mm option?

You just replace the whole crankset. Take the chainrings off to keep as spares and put the rest of the cranks in the recycle. Get another square taper 104mm BCD chainset like this. It's a potentially expensive mistake but one a lot of beginners to bicycle maintenance make. Just in case you weren't aware, one of the pedals is reverse threaded.

You can replace it yourself but you might need to buy a tool or two.

Are you sure your pedal is damaged? Normally it is just the crank arm that strips as the pedal thread is much harder steel. You might need to use a wire brush to clean out the threads.

I know if you order the Sunrace cassette off Amazon it comes with a generic "Road Link" a dohicky that will make sure your RD will work with the cassette.

https://www.amazon.com/Sunrace-cassette-9-speed-provided-JGbike/dp/B01MRLWHEO

Been riding this one for 4 years, still good as new. ~$8

http://www.amazon.com/KMC-Z410-Bicycle-1-Speed-8-Inch/dp/B000AO5NI0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463584099&sr=8-2&keywords=bike+chain

I would go with a OneUp chainring instead. After further investigation you can remove the whole spider and buy something like this

Oh hey, I was in the same boat. I swapped over to 1x from 3x at the front and my chain would fall off the front ring in rough sections. I tossed one of these on the front https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Torqlite-Chain-Guide-31-8-34-9mm/dp/B008ZTLV9W?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2 , and once I got it set up super close to the chagrining it did its job. No more issues with the chain popping off, and cheaper than a new derailer with a clutch.

Sure! This here is your standard very basic shimano unit.

You look it up online. Or on the packaging I'd guess. According to amazon it's a 3/32.

I think that'd fit with the 'narrow' on your previous chain (the 2 most common chain widths are 3/32 and 1/8).

(3/32 is narrower than 1/8)

Looks like this might be what you're looking for.

> Sram PC-1091

https://www.amazon.com/KMC-10-Speed-116-Links-Bicycle-28-Inch/dp/B001AYOP9M

This seems to be the chain that was on the bike.. doesn't look like the hollow pin design you had mentioned.

Thanks man

If the bike you have fits you and hasn't been terribly abused it might be worth just keeping it. 550 is going to buy another entry level-ish bike. $200 in tools and parts can fix most issues, and you can keep up on your own maintenance from then on.

A 9 speed chain and chain tool. 30 bucks

[Brake and Shifter Cables and housing ]
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXV23A7/) and cable cutter $50

9 speed cassette HG400 and Lockring tool $35

Cone Wrenches 13/14 13/15 15/16 17/18 $20 for repacking hub grease $11

allen wrenches $11

None of this is very difficult to do if you watch a youtube or 2. The hardest part is getting the derailleurs working again, and that isn't really that bad.

I spend up for the K710SL, but this doesn't look too bad (friends have bought it), and has become my reference for base level chain cost.

https://www.amazon.com/KMC-Silver-Single-Speed-Chain/dp/B000AO5NI0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500666491&sr=8-1&keywords=single+speed+chain+kmc

Wait correction, I do have one of these on my """beater""" fixie.

OP can get a white one for $8
Brown is under $7 delivered, a real testament to the power of capitalism

Wiggle.com might be cheaper but here are amazon links. This is a simple parts list. In addition to cables.

Shimano Sora R3000-GS Medium Cage Rear Derailleur Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K5C70T6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NAQ1AbV85X6N3



KMC KMC023 X9.93 Bicycle Chain (9-Speed, 1/2 x 11/128-Inch, 116L, Silver/Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AYJF2E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9BQ1AbT1P3155


Shimano FC-2450 50/34T Double 8-Speed Claris Crankset, Silver, 170mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CSYP2CC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BDQ1Ab774ETJ1


SRAM PG950 11-32T 9-Speed Cassette https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001A3DMBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rEQ1AbRJTATWS

Had the same issue with a DB Hook. If it’s that cheap plastic piece above and below your chain ring, don’t bother with their chain guides, get a proper narrow wide chain ring and if you really want to, there’s this guide on amazon.

Origin8 Torqlite UL Chain Guide, Mini Clamp On (31.8 - 34.9mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ZTLV9W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_U.CdBbYGY2MRT

Raceface makes a relatively cheap, well made narrow-wide chain ring.

RaceFace 104mm Single Chain Ring, Black, 32T 9/10/11 Speed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3FG5EY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_waDdBbE7C18PJ

I bought this one; https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001AYJF2E?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Its 116 links. It's also worth checking on the cable tension and making sure your derailleur is aligned and indexed correctly.

Here is an 11-28. You won't be able to find anything much fancier without lookin at NOS parts.

If you want the HG50, it'll probably be a little lighter and perhaps shift slightly smoother.

It's a chain keeper. Not sure who made that specific one (looks like Park Tool blue, but who knows), but here's Pedro's Chain Keeper.

Edit: Appears to be a Morgan Blue Chain Keeper

This might work. It’s not a chain guard, but will keep the chain on.


https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Torqlite-UL-Chain-Guide/dp/B008ZTLV9W

Shimano HG71 6/7/8-Speed Chain https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N3R30WC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OH42Cb98QQG56
Just match the size of the chain and weave it in the same way it's in now.

How about Sugino?

http://www.amazon.com/Sugino-Single-Speed-165mm-130mm/dp/B0068S1YH6/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1415203910&sr=8-7&keywords=sugino+crankset

https://www.amazon.com/Pedros-Chain-Keeper-Bicycle-Tool/dp/B000IZEH1K

Very handy

Wait...I think I used the wrong term. The chainguard you refer to, I'm thinking, is the plastic disc, about the size of the chainwheel.

I meant to say a chain guide. Like this. As far as I know the BBS02 comes with a chainring chainguard but does not come with a chain guide.

I don't run any kind of chainguide for the riding I do, which is either fast and flowy or technical (roots errywhere) XC, with the occasional drop/jump.

My entire reason for going shadow+ was to quiet the bike up. Before replacing the derailleur and going 1x10, coming down a rooty section sounded like a toolbox falling down a flight of stairs, and that's with serious chainstay padding.

The only thing I hear anymore is the very occasional slap and every now and then some rub on the RF bash I have mounted up. I use the bash and a JumpStop to keep the chain on, I've had one chain drop since going to this setup, and that was in a wipeout.

If you're getting a clutch derailleur AND the upper guide/bash, I wouldn't sweat the ring. You really have to work to throw a chain from the bottom with the new mechs. The tension is adjustable, too, you can always crank it up or down if shifting gets too hard or you keep dropping chains.

I did 105 chains for a while, but they cost a fortune and they lasted me about 2 months. I've since started using this bad boy:

http://amzn.com/B001AYOP9M

It's cheaper, comes with a master link, and makes it through a whole year. It probably weighs 2 oz more. Oh no!

Thx, that was really helpfull. I searched for sth similar in German / on the german Amazon pages, but no matches. For example I typed in "26 36 46 Kurbel" (=crank) and the only hits were either some 2-chain-rings cranksets or a 26-36-48 Crankset.

Regarding radcopter2's comment that the rings don't needed to be replaced urgently, I will have my chain checked, if it is too loose by now. THe chain is still a mass product and only costs ~ 20 USD.

Also the cassette (7-speed, 12-28 teeth) is still available at amazon.