(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best bike tires & tubes

You could always head to Dover and get a ferry to Calais; then cycle/train your way to Paris from there. It would save you the horror of the Eurostar and the ferries are much easier with a bike. If sticking with the train, giving them a call soon, or popping into St Pancras when you get to London; would be advisable; they can give you the most up-to-date requirements and get everything booked in one go.

Wild camping is enshrined in law in Scotland, Illegal in France. So if you do it, it's on you and neither Reddit or I take no responsibility for your actions! ;)

France is a pretty big country, so I'd hesitate to give you a forecast; keep your eye on meteo.fr! Where my family lives tends to be quite up and down through autumn, further south and east is likely to be better. Be aware of snow through November. And when I say 'be aware of snow', I mean if you see a white star on a weather map, it wouldn't hurt to have some of these. My parents have gotten stuck plenty of times in the car even on well kept roads, and they always keep snow chains for if the weather looks to turn foul. I keep a worn-in set of winter tyres for my bike so I'm ready to go if necessary.

Finally, while English is well-spoken throughout France, it is not universal; and in many rural areas there is sometimes a culture of deliberately being difficult to anglophones who don't at least make an effort to speak French. A pocket phrasebook would be a very good thing to have in your bar bag, and will not cost you very much at all.

If you do end up going via Calais, Belgium is an interesting country that is not far away. The Eurovelo route obviously skirts the atlantic via the bay of Biscay, since you're not following the route anyway, and you seem to have plenty of time I'd consider heading south-east from Paris, perhaps dip into Switzerland and visit Geneva, Turin in Italy and then follow the Mediterranean towards the Pyrénées and rejoining the route into Spain? The straight line from Italy to Spain through med france is actually mostly national parks, so should be easier riding than a lot of other places!

Since it's the kind of scenery I love, I'd happily lead you from mountain range to mountain range (in Spain there's the Picos de Europa, one of my favorite places. Totally not really on your route though). I don't really know what you're looking for from what you've said here, so giving better advice than that is pretty tough. Also bear in mind that most of these places in the south are places I've been to only on motorized transport, so while I've seen bikes on the route; I've not done it myself! The parts of France I know well, are all north-west of anywhere you're considering going, so I really can't assist you much on specific routes!

I would highly recommend a set of Schwalbe Kojaks 700 x 35. They'll keep the same trail, so handling should be identical to using knobbies, but since they're slicks with nice supple sidewalls they roll very well and aren't priced to break the bank. Oh, and they're not that heavy either. Have a set and love them over Gatorskins, Conti 4Seasons and even my 4000S's.

Personally I would avoid gatorskins. Not a bad tire, but a bit more hype in regards to being bombproof and don't roll all that smoothly. They once were the best value, but their price rose and now they're ok.

You have gotten a number of crappy recommendations in this thread, from my time here it seems like the average ebiker is a 260lb dude who only wants a fat bike and to never peddle.

I am 135lbs, use a BBS02 on a mountain bike with Low rolling resistance tires and a 48V battery and have no problem going 30 with max peddle assist and half hearted peddling on flat ground.

When you are small you can make a lot happen without too much power, getting a little more aero and peddling a bit can be equivalent of adding 50% more power for basically free.

I would avoid hubs motors as they really heavy and ungainly to work on for smaller people, I have not ridden one but I bought one and noped out before finishing my build with a mid drive. Also being light means that you are a lot gentler on your drive train, a main criticism of mid drives.

You will be able to get 20 miles of range out of any good battery that isn't a meme battery like the mighty mini. Even with a smaller 11 amp hour battery 20 miles is doable while riding the bike like you stole it. A bigger battery gives you a buffer for windy/cold/hilly days and lets you go multiple short rides without charging.

I would spend a little bit more and get a nice setup if I was you, I personally found ebiking to be much more enjoyable than I thought it would be and would have splurged a bit more in hindsight.

A parts list something like this.

Motor: BBS02 with 46 tooth bling ring. $450

Battery:52V dolphin pack. $590

Bike: Random chinese bike(one I used). $300

Tires/rear shifter(bike uses bifters and you are replacing the brake levers with ebike ones) other bits and bobs: $100

Total cost before tax: $1450

You can go cheaper by going with a used bike, most anything will work really. Or get an ebay hub motor if you really want, but I find a 50lb bike already kinda a bear to deal with and a hub motor would push that weight higher and put it in a more awkward spot. Lastly by going with a 48v battery saving like $90.

You are probably not going to ride around at 30, at 30 you start catching a little air off really bumpy pavement and intersections feel sketchy. 25 is really comfy and with a setup described here you can do that all the time even up hills and have a little "merging power" left in the tank for faster roads.

Good luck with your build!

> I definitely agree with the others that recommend a hand gauge. I have owned a few different gauges and the SKS Airchecker version 2 is my favorite for cross. Topeak Smartgauge D2 is also really good, but only shows 1 psi increments. Not helpful if you care about half a psi. But maybe it's not worth caring about half a psi.

My favorite gauge. I had one of those fancy digital gauges, can’t remember which, but I found it to be incredibly finicky and unreliable (this is not a review, just my own experience). So I bought a 30 psi Accu-Gage and I’ve used it the last 4 years. As a nice bonus, it’s much cheaper than the digital gauges but reliable and basically indestructible. Anyway, not trying to say not to use a digital gauge. Just use some kind of dedicated low pressure gauge, not the gauge on your floor pump, and if you’re price sensitive, know that the analog options are inexpensive and really good.

I have a Panaracer Pasela Tourguard 1 1/8" I only have one but it is a fairly fast, awesome tire that has not seen many miles at all. I would love to send it to you if you wanna pay for the shipping ( I could probably fit it in a flat-rate box)

http://www.amazon.com/Panaracer-Pasela-Guard-Bicycle-27x1-1/dp/B001CK2DZM

For bout $30 you could have a sturdy set of tires.

1. Go for a hybrid. Something like the Specialized sirrus will be faster than any mountain bike. Make sure the bike you buy has mounting points for full fenders and a rear pannier rack
   
   
2. Full fenders are a must. They will make a huge difference. Other things that can make a big difference in wet weather are shoe covers. Also, as other have said, backpacks are a bad idea because they make you sweat like hell. Go for waterproof panniers or a good quality messenger bag like this one. Finally, one thing you don't want is to have a puncture in the rain or cold weather. Get tires with good puncture protection like the Schwalbe Marathon Plus to reduce the chance of getting flats.
   
   
3. Clipless pedals (the one that hook your feet to the pedals) have a learning curve, but they will make you pedal more efficiently. If you want to go this way, try hybrid pedals first. They can be used with cycling shoes (hooking your feet to the pedal) or with regular shoes.

O wow thanks so much! What's the difference other than the tires though? Could I just put these tires here

https://www.amazon.com/Schwalbe-Marathon-Winter-Studded-Allround/dp/B001K72VO0/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1473879065&sr=1-1&keywords=Studded++Bicycle+Tire

On the other bike Speak_The_truf suggested? The Diamondback Bicycles 2016 Century 1 Complete Road Bike with Disc Brakes. Or would you definitely suggest I just get the other bike? I see the other one is about $160 cheaper with the hyprid bars.

I always bring Tire Levers, a new tube, a bike pump, wallet, & phone (I personally ride with a CamelBak, but you could easily fit this in a small underseat pouch). Plan A is fix the flat. Plan B is call a cab. Although I purchased my stuff at LBS, here's some amazon links:

Tire Levers: http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Tire-Lever-Set/dp/B000BR1182/
Pump: http://www.amazon.com/Lezyne-Micro-Floor-Drive-HPG/dp/B005UZO7RM/
Tubes (be sure and get your size!): http://www.amazon.com/Continental-Presta-Valve-Black-20-25cc/dp/B0068FAXTY

I usually get my stuff from Amazon. I bought from Chain Reaction once. Good experiences from both.

I'm thinking of swapping my Schwalbe Smart Sam, 27.5”x2.10” to one of the following slicks but I'm not sure if they would fit my 27.5 wheel.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PZE2I6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=294D125K07MNN&coliid=I24TXMA1HILOWH

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AYA8KIA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=294D125K07MNN&coliid=I1RVZWM1E5ZKH4

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SR3O88/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=294D125K07MNN&coliid=IPPT3P4RB80T4&psc=1

Hopefully some good deal crops up for either of these though I highly doubt it. There's been nothing much to get since Black Friday.

Hey!

First of all, thank you for following us & we are glad you like our bike!

The tires & tubes we use are Mongoose 20x4:

https://www.amazon.com/Mongoose-MG78456-2-Fat-Tire-20/dp/B01CGDW2AO/ref=pd_bxgy_468_img_2/137-6884282-9607559?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01CGDW2AO&pd_rd_r=1d2d8ad9-8a3e-4cd1-a7e9-ef68251f2833&pd_rd_w=b6ioR&pd_rd_wg=KyxKZ&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=BNMAA42VW3TRFVVGGGQ6&psc=1&refRID=BNMAA42VW3TRFVVGGGQ6

https://www.amazon.com/Mongoose-MG78457-6-Fat-Tire-Tube/dp/B01CGDVXL8/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=mongoose+20x4+tires&qid=1567357413&s=gateway&sr=8-2

We also use the "Mr Tuffy" (4XL) tire liners between the tires & tubes:

https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Tuffy-Bike-4-1-5-0-4X-Large/dp/B00SM1OW5S/ref=pd_cp_468_3?pd_rd_w=PdK7t&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=ZNT38DCP3NNZC58DTQ73&pd_rd_r=2130f3f9-a96c-4abc-9bdc-100d08fa34d0&pd_rd_wg=h9Tsw&pd_rd_i=B00SM1OW5S&psc=1&refRID=ZNT38DCP3NNZC58DTQ73

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(We are not an official UK dealer)

not digital, but i like this one - it's presta and you can release pressure until you get the value you want (by pressing the button) while keeping it on the valve. it also has a decent sized range (you can easily get to within 1 psi).

(actually, i just looked, and mine - same make - goes to 60psi, but that one seems better for mtb)

(also, i find this post kinda weird - like saying "hey guys i know all about the latest trends but look at them noobs")

https://www.amazon.com/Kenda-Kwest-Commuter-Hybrid-Bicycle/dp/B00LGVUZJ8

They come in a couple colors, but the red was a perfect one. They ride well and besides a chunk of metal one day, only 1 flat

That was a very helpful website. Out of everything I looked at the Schwalbe Marathon's looked to not only have good puncture resistance, lower rolling resistance, but were also the only ones I found that fit my bicycle.

https://www.amazon.com/Schwalbe-Marathon-Wire-Bead-700X32/dp/B004JKNY7I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473807134&sr=8-1&keywords=schwalbe%2Bmarathon%2Bgreenguard

Do you think I will be good using those tires with puncture resistant tubes?

OK. We've got similar trails too. I used to use tire linings like this one.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026R9DLM/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=1944687602&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000ENSRQW&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0DJ8GJ14WC5QWJGNHJSD

Never had a flat from a thorn after that. I had a better/lighter Kevlar one back then and not sure if this particular one is as good though. I can't find the one I used. Tubeless with sealant, even ghetto setup, won't get flat from thorns either. You might not even need sealant if you have a UST setup.

I ride 35-38s now, and 23-25s in the past and have never bought a studded tire. That bike would be perfect in the winter. If you're apprehensive, go to a shop and get some marathon winters; they're like ~$50ea on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Schwalbe-Marathon-Winter-Studded-Allround/dp/B001K72VO0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506697732&sr=8-1&keywords=marathon+winter

Something like this would probably do you great.

Panaracer Tour Tire with Wire Bead, 26 x 1.5-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AZWXEV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IqRlDbD3M36DT

Has anyone had any experience with Vittoria Rubino Pro III's? I remember seeing a thread a few months ago that they're a great value.

OPI nail polish is the best quality if you decide to go that route . Or you can cover it up with a top tube protector.

https://www.amazon.com/Green-Guru-Gear-Upcycled-Protector/dp/B00A8JQVDI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=bike+top+tube+protector&qid=1568159663&s=gateway&sprefix=bike+top+tube+&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/All-Mountain-Style-Honeycomb-Impact/dp/B00PWUPL4I/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=bike+top+tube+protector&qid=1568159663&s=gateway&sprefix=bike+top+tube+&sr=8-2

I want to switch my bike to 29" tubeless, and have decided on the Maxxis Ardent Race Exo Kv 3 29x2.20 for the front and Maxxis Ikon 29x2.20 for the rear

Now to complete my new setup, can someone suggest what kind of sealant, rim tape and tubeless valves to get? (Bonus points if they're available on amazon.de :D)

Thanks a lot

Well, you can get Panaracer Paselas or Paselas with a puncture proof layer for not much money considering how well they ride. Those are some awesome tires most mainstream sites ignore and pretend that don't exist.

Look for the Panaracer PT 27" 1 1/4

Advertising budgets = $$$$$

You probably won't find a local shop that stocks them so see what amazon has to offer.

Yes thank you. Green Guru Top Tube Protector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A8JQVDI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_ceoQwbXD717BM

I hit a jutted up rock. You can hear it at :35 in the video. I've flatted the front before doing the same thing, but a different section. Going fast and hit a jutted rock.

Other flats I've had were from something that slit my sidewalls open and cut the tubes pretty bad. Those were the cyclo-x kings. These are the now I'm running the cheap CST tires and they are pretty nice. I might get a pair of Surly Knard 40c tires fore trail riding in the fall.

yes, i'd say my experience with the kendas was non-typical to say the least.

As for the Schwalbe's i'm finding them well within my budget, thanks for the recommendation.

edit: so the link I put there aren't the plus version apparently, will continue researching.

The diamondback pro 29 can run tubeless and I have no tubes on rn.

https://www.amazon.com/Maxxis-Ardent-Race-Folding-29x2-2/dp/B00GOFKPN2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=maxxis%2Bardent%2B2.2%2Btubeless&qid=1564530159&s=gateway&sr=8-1&th=1&psc=1


This is the rear you're suggesting right? 29, 2.2 tubeless ready. All good, price point looks fine etc?

any 700C and tire ranging from 28 - 32 mm wide should fit using the same tubes you have now.

I Like Conti Tour Ride and the Michelin City myself

Or you could just get the same tires you have now

I posted the same question a few weeks ago. I got the Vittoria Rubino Pro III after a recommendation and absolutely love them.

Just for clarification with terminology:

Wheel = the whole wheel, with or without the tire
Tire = the outer rubber part of the wheel
Rim = the outer part of the wheel the tire fits into

>The front is seemingly new, but that may just be that the wear is more even.

It's normal for the rear tire to wear faster because it carries more weight and drives you forward. If you brake mostly with the rear brake it gets even more uneven wear.

>Anyway, I don't take this thing in any serious mud. I'm running it because it's what was in the basement when I went off to college, so I get that mountain bikes aren't the best, but it's what I got.

There's nothing wrong with an older mountain bike for this kind of use apart from the tires. Early 90s MTBs with rigid forks are more like modern hybrids and touring bikes than modern MTBs (apart from the tires).

>But, I do still run it through the grass because my college has some annoyingly poor sidewalk planning, so running street slicks isn't the best option.

Unless the grass is on a steep hill you don't need knobbly tires. Yes you won't have that much grip with slicks if the grass is wet (in the dry it will be plenty grippy enough) but if the grass is fairly flat that doesn't matter. Many people greatly overestimate the necessity of knobbly tires for offroad riding.

> I can get a 26x2.125 cruiser wheel for pretty cheap.

You would be able to fit any 26" tire between about 1.4" and 2.4" you don't have to get exactly the same width. Though 1.9-2.3 is the width that makes the most sense on a bike like this.

While that tire would fit it is totally unsuitable, it's meant for a beach cruiser bike (and I wouldn't recommend it even for that). Because of the square profile it would handle terribly if not ridden in a straight line and it would be extremely slow, wouldn't be surprised if they rolled slower than your current knobbly tires. The tread it has might give more grip on sand but it wouldn't help on wet grass.

If you can only afford $20 per tire or less I'd go for a set of these

If you can afford a bit more I would go for these

That Food Bazaar on Broadway/Manhattan was my go to when I lived in Bushwick!


I know you said 28c but these 32s have been my winter tires for the past 5 years, polar vortex included. Just installed a new pair last week... last set lasted me about 3000 miles. I bring out the fat bike with 4” tires if I have to ride through the blizzard or unplowed streets.


700x32 still feels a little sketch in the snow.. have to run about 20-30 psi and take things slooowww. 700x28 will be even less effective.

https://youtu.be/tkxU6a2esIA

Tristan also made a tutorial with the shop in Cali.a step by step,now I just do it myself and buy a couple of tubes on amazon.

Mongoose MG78457-6 Fat Tire Tube, 20 x 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CGDVXL8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Q5D1DbWRH0TB7

I also put slime in my tires to plug any holes and carry a bike patch kit with me.Its my daily,had three flats due to construction sites, staples and nails everywhere.I avoid that area now but carrying this stuff and an air pump helps.good luck!

Charger Combo CDN 5.76 From Would Like list.

For safer and more psychedelic bike rides CDN 2.27 From Under $5 stuff... for the most part list.

I just went with the recommended Tacx Trainer Tire from Amazon. Works well, matches my bike, and doesn't slip.

buying cheap stuff always ends up being more expensive in the long run. that hole looks like it has one of those recessed allen screws. its hard to tell from the picture tho. didnt this thing come with an instruction manual? if not, did you try to find a pdf of it online? i would also suggest that you get a trainer tire. they are made to withstand the friction better
http://www.amazon.com/Tacx-Trainer-Tire-700c-23-mm/dp/B001C6DBXE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1448970657&sr=8-7&keywords=trainer+tire

Your...your situation sounds identical to mine. First winter for me, I commute 6 miles each way, part on a multi-use path, the rest on roads.

I am using the Giant Roam 3 with studded tires and so far am very pleased with it.

For the side view.. I like something like a valve cap The kids in my neighborhood have them cuz they think they're cool, but they ALWAYS get my attention.

I just recently put these on my fs Santa Cruz. It's definitely faster and easier to ride around on the streets, but they're so skinny it looks ridiculous. I wish Maxxis would make Hookworms in 27.5.

thx. I just ordered a spare tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CGDVXL8/?cv_ct_id=amzn1.idea.7UDB61NV3OQO&cv_ct_pg=storefront&cv_ct_wn=aip-storefront&ref=exp_cov_teamdominican_dp_vv_d

Shelton Brown was speaking in terms of commuting and people that put major miles on their bike as primary transportation. i.e., will the tire still work? The technical answer is yes, but for my money I would never run a tire that had lost enough flexibility to crack. It's not conforming to the surface of the trail anymore and the contact patch is smaller.

The real world answer is replace the tire when it is no longer capable of doing the job...even if it still "looks good". Plenty of brands of tires go off long before they look worn out. From the looks of your picture, it is a pretty old MTB with off brand tires that probably doesn't see any real trail duty. In that case, no worries. However if you just commute on it or ride greenways, putting a set of new soft city slicks on your bike won't set you back much and will make riding it worlds better.
Like these
or these

$1.30 Thank you for the contest!

I use these for commuting after giving up on race tires because they wear out / flat too quickly.

https://www.amazon.com/SCHWALBE-Marathon-Plus-Smart-Guard/dp/B00FM3LYC8/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=schwalbe+marathon&qid=1569507060&s=outdoor-recreation&sr=1-1

Looks like Kenda Kwests. They also appear to be mounted backwards.

I got these for my tandem and like them so far. Panaracer Tour Tire with Wire Bead, 26 x 1.5-Inch (38mm) paid $19.99 each
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AZWXEV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CoDwDbDVC5YC6

You could try these tires assuming your frame will fit them

http://www.amazon.com/Schwalbe-Kojak-Folding-Bead-Tire/dp/B004YIBJ90/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

ABSOLUTELY

Get one of these babies

Stick one or two of these appropriately sized puppies in there

Keep one of these suckas on your person when out there.

And should something like this shit go down, youre gonna want some of these life savers.

Oh and lemme go 'head and save them fingers

Heres a quick lil video on how fix a flat

If that video doesnt suffice, we have the man Sheldon Brown

My next guess would be the liner that keeps your tube from rubbing against the inside of the spokes is missing or out of place. I can never seem to get mine to stay put when I have to change tubes, so I've just been using heavy duty electrical tape, and it seems to work fine.

Another issue might be that something has gotten embedded into the tire that sticks through just enough to poke the tube. If that's the case, you need to replace both the tire and the tube.

As a side note, I personally prefer to use heavy duty inner tubes since they are harder to puncture. That said, when I bike it is almost exclusively mtn. biking and it never hurts to have extra strong equipment when mtn. biking. I've also heard that tires with kevlar bands in them are a lot harder to puncture. I haven't tried them myself, so I cannot say one way or the other. There are also tire liners, but I don't know anybody who has tried them.

This one: Meiser Presta-Valve Dial Gauge with Pressure Relief: 30psi https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XISIK4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3H20DbVCBF11P

I've got 35c studded tires - they worked OK for me. I didn't fall, although it felt kind of sketchy at times.

Big thing is traffic. Very few cars were out and about. When I did get near one I just pulled over, since I don't trust drivers on this stuff. That car at the light is the only one I saw moving on the road for like 5 minutes.

I saw a guy out there with a fat bike, he was killing it. But I can't see buying a fat bike to ride in the like 2 days a year we get snow.

You might want to pick up a training tire. They make less noise and have less wear so you will be saving money on buying new tires.

Here

these?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004JKNY7I?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Schwalbe Marathon Greenguard in 700x32c

Similar for me, but I went with the 30 psi range.

Would advise against that pump and tool kit.

Here's the tools you should get:

https://www.amazon.com/Pedro-Tire-Lever-Yellow-Pair/dp/B008FOMD6M/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1483755226&sr=1-2&keywords=pedros+tire+lever

https://www.amazon.com/Pedros-142724-Trixie-Fixie-Tool/dp/B001Q221GM/ref=sr_1_7?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1483755245&sr=1-7&keywords=lockring+tool

https://www.amazon.com/Continental-Presta-Valve-Black-20-25cc/dp/B0068FAXTY/ref=sr_1_5?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1483755280&sr=1-5&keywords=bicycle%2Btube&th=1&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Road-Morph-Bike-Gauge/dp/B000FI6YOS/ref=sr_1_1?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1483755338&sr=1-1&keywords=topeak+hand+pump

which puts you at $52 for tools.

For a helmet I'd look at a Giro Foray or a Specialized Echelon

Tube

Levers

Frame pump (or alternatively CO2 inflator)

Patch kit (optional)

Saddle bag

I use this - https://www.amazon.com/Meiser-Presta-Valve-Gauge-Pressure-Relief/dp/B004XISIK4

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A8JQVDI there's plenty more options too.

Would u consider these one day:

http://www.amazon.com/Schwalbe-Marathon-Winter-Studded-Allround/dp/B001K72VO0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415846439&sr=8-1&keywords=schwalbe+winter+tires

I needed winter tires for my rear wheel drive car for the Colorado winters. I couldn’t get out of my subdivision with the previous storm, and it wasn’t that bad. I opted for studded bike tires and finding my ski base layers instead dropping $700. Less miles on the car, and now I get to enjoy snowy mornings. I learned my lesson on trusting Big O Tires on what constitutes an “All Season Tire” when all the google reviews reference them as summer tires that suck in cold weather.


SCHWALBE Marathon Winter HS 396 Studded Road Bike Tire (700x35, Allround Wire Beaded, Reflex) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001K72VO0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tDSZDbQPYDK0Y

This. Try and get a cheap-ish tire pressure gauge to make accurate changes to your tires. I bought one on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004XISIK4/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1527479651&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=meiser+presta+gauge&dpPl=1&dpID=51VlanwBIXL&ref=plSrch

Agreed. I have a Karate Monkey with plus tires and couldn't live without my little gage: Meiser Presta-Valve Dial Gauge... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XISIK4?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Start at something high (20f/30r? Others may have a better starting point) and slowly drop it by 1 or even 1/2 psi every ride on the same trail.

When the tires start to feel too squirmy, go up a bit and there you go. Also, remember that one tire can feel squirmy while the other is okay to drop some more. I'm can run much lower pressures on the front tire.

I rode on Schwalbe Marathon Winter HS 396 last winter and really liked them. Hit some black ice one time and locked up the rear tire but these kept me up right. If it's not icy you can run them at 60psi and they still roll OK (they're still heavy as hell though), but you can drop the pressure and really stick if you need to.

The previous winter I rode on the non-studded version of those and my rear tire slid out through a turn. It was pretty dry otherwise that season so I couldn't justify buying them.

As PureBeetSugar said there aren't any good budget studded tires out there. I put three or four hundred miles on those and only lost a two or three studs total. Cheaper ones will either have steel studs that will rust out and/or poor methods for securing them to the tire - which means no more studs.