Reddit mentions: The best camera batteries

You are going to need a few things:

• An APS-C sensor camera. Example: [Nikon D7200] (https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=nikon%20d7200&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ps); an older used Nikon D7000 would be perfectly fine too (~$350). The Nikon D7xxx series is the lowest-end Nikon that supports lens focus adjustment and older, motor-driven lenses, so that's where I would start. The D5xxx series isn't bad either, and the tilt screen is nice, but it doesn't support focus adjustment.
  
  
• A decent lens. A kit lens will work well for your purposes, although for interiors a wide angle lens is sometimes helpful. You can get the D7200 in a bundle with the kit lens. An older used 18-105mm (or even an 18-55mm) will do just fine too ($200). A kit lens will let you get shots where everything is in focus (i.e., using a narrow aperture like f/5.6); if you want shots that isolate a single subject, you may need more expensive lenses that support wider apertures like f/2.8 or f/1.8.
  
  
• A good flash, which supports aiming, wide angle lenses, TTL, and wireless triggering. Example: [Nikon SB-700] (https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/734997-USA/Nikon_4808_SB_700_Speedlight_Shoe_Mount.html) (about $175 used). This is essential for good interior shots; good photographers often use multiple flashes and light modifiers, but this one solid flash will be great to get you started.
  
  
• A steady tripod that's easy to deploy. Don't cheap out on the tripod. Read [this] (http://bythom.com/support.htm) about tripods. A good mid-range Tripod brand is [Feisol] (http://www.feisol.net/tripods.html) (I'd budget around $400). A good tripod is absolutely essential to getting nice interior shots like you are talking about. You'll want to set your camera up on the tripod, get everything in focus, then use a cable release (or wireless release) to trigger it. That will give you sharp pictures in indoor light.
  
  
• A good ballhead. Don't cheap out on the ballhead: FLM (I'd probably just buy this new for around $200). I've used the FLM ballhead I linked -- it's technically only mid-range, but it works spectacularly well for the price. I actually like it better than my more-expensive Markins ballhead. The brands in the Thom Hogan article are all fine (RRS, etc.). Don't go with the low-end brands like Surui; I tried one, and it is not even close.
  
  
• A quick-switch plate: Peak Design ($30). I like the Peak Design plates because they are small, light, and they have strap hooks if you want to go that way. Any arca-swiss plate will work though.
  
  
• A remote ($20, or like $.50 used). These are super cheaply made but they generally work OK. The higher-end cameras use radio rather than infrared, but you can get by just fine with the infrared remotes the D7xxx cameras use.
  
  
• Two [memory cards] (https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Extreme-Flash-Memory-SDSDXPA-064G-X46/dp/B005LFT3UW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1491828485&sr=8-6&keywords=sandisk%2BSDHC&th=1) ($80 total, I'd buy new personally). The D7xxx cameras allows you to use two cards (with the second as an overflow or backup).
  
  
• A [spare battery] (https://www.amazon.com/Nikon-EN-EL15-Rechargeable-Battery-Packaging/dp/B0045KGZOG/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1491828565&sr=8-6&keywords=nikon+battery) ($49, I'd buy new personally). You can get by without this, but it's much more convenient to have a spare.
  
  If you bought all of these things new, it would be way outside of your budget. But, luckily, camera gear has a great used market. I personally use the Fred Miranda forums buy/sell page, but you can also find great stuff on eBay or elsewhere. Refurbs are fine too. And the nice thing about buying used is that if you don't like it, you can sell it for about what you bought it for.
  
  If you buy used (and go for the D7000 rather than the D7200), this should add up to around $1500 or less. I've shot tens of thousands of pictures with the D7000, and it's a wonderful camera. I've also used the D7100, and it's fine too, although honestly I'd probably take the sensor of the D7000 over the D7100. I've heard good things about the D7200 but haven't used it personally (and it has been eclipsed by the more expensive D500). If I were you, I'd go for the used D7000.
  
  

I recently went on a once in a lifetime trip to France for two weeks, so hopefully I can provide some helpful advice/insight.

First, and I cannot stress this enough, have enough memory! I'd recommend bringing at least 16GB, if not more.
I brought two 8GB cards to France and transfered them to my computer each night. I never used the second card, however, if I wouldn't have had the luxury of transferring to a laptop each night, I would have quickly exceeded this.
If you are able to bring a computer or other means by which to back up your photos, I'd STRONGLY recommend it. It's great peace of mind to not have to worry about losing pictures or running out of room.

Second, DO NOT use the Auto mode, that just makes your DSLR a big point and shoot. A lot of people recommend using M(anual), but it can be a little overwhelming if you're not used to your camera. The Av (Aperture Priority) mode is great because it allows you to select the aperture value you want (which will effect what's in focus and Depth of Field) while automatically determining the rest. Constipated_Help gave you some very sound advice on exposure, so follow that if you're able.

Third, make sure you have the right accessories. A tripod would be great for landscape shots. The Dolica Proline is a great value at 40$. At least one extra battery would be good to have, especially if you will not be able to recharge during the trip. An Opteka t2i battery can be had for 12$, and works with your Canon charger.

If you can swing it, a new lens would be good to have since the lens is the determining factor of image quality. If you like to "zoom" and isolate subjects, you'll want a telephoto. The Canon 55-250 IS is a great deal at 240$. If you like wide angle, you'll need an ultra wide. These will typically run above 400$. I have a Tokina 11-16 and I am very pleased. As others have recommended, the Canon 50 1.8 is an incredible deal at 100$ and provides creative options with it's wide aperture.
A nice bag is also a good thing to have. You can buy either a messenger style, a holster or a backpack. Filters would also be nice, but they're not a necessity.

I hope this can help. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. I'd be glad to (try to) help! :)

Beyond DSLRs and mirrorless DSLMs (such as the A7 series), here are the cameras you might want to consider below $10,000 (in ascending price order):

Below $3000

In this category, I recommend the [$1999 Sony PXW-X70] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NPAJH8I/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00NPAJH8I&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) professional camcorder.

This camera has a relatively large 1" sensor, pro XLR mic inputs, records to a broadcast quality 10-bit 4:2:2 codec, has an SDI out connection and a [$499 paid upgrade path] (http://adorama.evyy.net/c/60286/51926/1036?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.adorama.com%2Fsocbkzx70fx.html) to 3840x2160p Ultra High Definition "4K" resolution.

In addition, the X70's optical steady shot system makes for very stable handheld shots, as seen in the walking shots in this travel piece: [San Blas Islands of Panama. December 2014.] (http://player.vimeo.com/video/119601178)

Here are a few more examples:

Documentary

• [Classic Days - Schloss Dyck 2015] (https://vimeo.com/135595246)
  
  
• [Documentary - Life of street performer from Japan] (https://vimeo.com/139793673) (intercut with the Canon T3i)
  
  Musical Performance
  
  
• [Chris August sings The Maker] (https://vimeo.com/118133998) (intercut with the Panasonic GH4)
  
  Here is the image quality this camera can produce after the 4K upgrade (please watch at 2160p and your monitor's highest resolution):
  
  
• [Test Sony PXW-X70 in 4K by magazinevideo] (https://youtu.be/iQDiCeoZwP4)
  
  
• [Sony pxw-x70 test 4K - Night view of Seoul, Korea by yoonkee sung] (https://youtu.be/MAYWXxBdWZQ)
  
  In my view, the X70 with the 4K upgrade is best all-in-one (power zoom lens included) 4K video solution you can get below $3000.
  
  Below $4000
  
  In this price class, I recommend the [$3495 4K Super 35mm JVC GY-LS300] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00USBVISE/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00USBVISE&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20).
  
  With the new v2.0 firmware update, it records to 4096x2160 Digital Cinema Initiative (DCI) 4K, as well as 3840x2160 Ultra High Definition (UHD), 2048x1080 DCI 2K and 1920x1080p HD (up to 60fps).
  
  It also has a flat LOG profile, which increases its dynamic range - and it has standard video camera features that still/video cameras lack: dual card slots, SDI out, a top handle, built in ND filters, etc.
  
  This is an 8-bit camera, but it has 4:2:2 color subsampling and will stand up to grading pretty well.
  
  Here's a UHD file shot with cine gamma (before the J LOG release):
  
  
• [“Honmonji Temple” in GY-LS300 by moribun] (https://vimeo.com/139214323) (downloadable if you're a Vimeo Plus or Pro member [if you're not, you can sign up [here] (http://vimeo.com/pro/new?utm_source=affiliate&utm_medium=prosubscribe-cj-vimeo-bizlander-300x250-20130424&utm_campaign=7696)])
  
  Here's a nice J-LOG piece from Dan Chung at newssshooter.com:
  
  
• [JVC GY-LS300 4K J-Log Vision] (https://vimeo.com/138523082) (not downloadable)
  
  And here's a very quick J-LOG camera shelf test at 4096x2160 Cinema 4K resolution from Gert Tetzner at avmediafactory:
  
  
• [JVC GY-LS300 Firmware 2.0 J-log ungraded] (https://vimeo.com/140984524) (downloadable for Vimeo Plus and Pro)
  
  A few more examples of the image quality this camera can produce:
  
  
• [GY-LS300 UHD 4K w/ Canon 70-200 and 85mm lenses] (https://youtu.be/QYCdxMrvAoA)
  
  
• [EVS’s test footage for the JVC GY-LS300 4K super 35 Cinema camera] (https://youtu.be/S47dceBcuJI)
  
  ...and 1080p on Vimeo:
  
  
• [JVC GY-LS300 Camera Test] (http://vimeo.com/122736335)
  
  
• [Breathing in New Life] (http://vimeo.com/120445118)
  
  A very nice overview from Zacuto:
  
  
• [First Look at JVC's GY-LS300] (http://vimeo.com/121192570)
  
  And a couple of useful reviews from Rick Young's Movie Machine:
  
  
• [One of a kind - shooting with the JVC GY-LS300] (http://vimeo.com/133929950)
  
  
• [Shooting with the JVC GY-LS300 & Micro Four Thirds Lenses] (http://vimeo.com/136918105)
  
  With a [$133.43 Commlite CM-EF-MFT adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011I2WWQ8/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B011I2WWQ8&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20), you can mount Canon lenses with aperture control and image stabilization enabled.
  
  I have shot with this camera - it is an easy-to-use, very high quality Super 35mm camcorder and a very good value for your money.
  
  Below $4500
  
  At [$4195, you might want to consider the new Panasonic AG-DVX200] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016043JWA/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B016043JWA&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20).
  
  With the DVX200, Panasonic has put a relatively large micro 4/3 sized sensor in a traditional camcorder form factor with a 13x fixed parfocal power zoom lens, 5-axis in-body stabilization, dual card slots, built-in NDs and 4K/60p.
  
  And it produces high quality images:
  
  
• [KYOTO - A Panasonic AG-DVX200 short film by Sebastian Wiegärtner] (https://vimeo.com/134622078)
  
  
• [A Day of Life by Panasonic Pro Video] (https://youtu.be/6dnPUE5LQLs)
  
  
• [A Day of Life Behind the Scenes by Panasonic Pro Video] (https://youtu.be/iuHqorCPfd4)
  
  And a nice first look from Zacuto:
  
  
• [Zacuto's First Look at the Panasonic DVX200 HD by Zacuto] (https://youtu.be/vb2e6YKRD_8)
  
  This camera type (fixed, non-interchangeable lens camcorder) limits your creative flexibility, but is ideal for events and run & gun, where changing lenses can sometimes slow you down.
  
  Below $5500
  
  In this price class, I recommend the new [$2995 shoulder mounted URSA Mini 4K] (http://adorama.evyy.net/c/60286/51926/1036?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.adorama.com%2FBMURSAM40KEF.html), which records RAW or edit-ready 10-bit ProRes 4:2:2 internally and is just now starting to ship. It has a Canon EF lens mount, so it is 100% compatible with your current lenses.
  
  The body is only $2995, but you'll need a [$1495 EVF] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WRB14EQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00WRB14EQ&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20), a [$95 battery plate] (http://adorama.evyy.net/c/60286/51926/1036?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.adorama.com%2FBMURSAVLBPL.html), a [$285.49 CFast 2.0 card] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LL4QUTE/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00LL4QUTE&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20), a battery solution (such as this [$39.95 Sony L to V mount adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016XIQ4Y8/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B016XIQ4Y8&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) and a couple of [$8.39 Sony L batteries] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007Q9PWQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0007Q9PWQ&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20)), and a [$395 shoulder mount kit] (http://adorama.evyy.net/c/60286/51926/1036?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.adorama.com%2FBMURSASHMKM.html) to get it up and running.
  
  Here are a few URSA Mini Image Quality Examples:
  
  
• [A wedding with the Ursa Mini 4K by The Dreamers] (https://vimeo.com/139130557)
  
  
• [#mydubai by Daniel Peters] (https://vimeo.com/146414106)
  
  
• [URSA Mini 4K | Christmas Spectacular, Hillsong Melbourne by Mat Sliwinski] (https://vimeo.com/149554465)
  
  
• [Blackmagic URSA Mini 4K by Norbert Bielan] (https://vimeo.com/145466251)
  
  
• [Blackmagic Ursa Mini 4k by Jsfilmz] (https://youtu.be/-m13NdGBcvM) (please watch at 2160p and your monitor's highest resolution)
  
  This camera is decent in low light with fast lenses (as seen in the sample videos), but not great.
  
  This camera also lacks built-in ND filters, so you'll need a matte box or screw-on NDs.
  
  That said, it has the best codecs among the cameras on this list and, in my view, will give you the highest quality images.
  
  Below $6000
  
  If you don't need the gradability and convenience of internal RAW recording, but you want internal ND filters, inexpensive SD card media, a small form factor and light weight (1.5 lbs. body-only) - you might want to consider the UHD [$5599 Sony FS5] (http://adorama.evyy.net/c/60286/51926/1036?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.adorama.com%2FSOPXWFS5.html).
  
  The FS5 can produce images that look like this:
  
  
• [Newsshooter.com Sony FS5 London anti war demonstration footage - graded by Dan Chung] (https://vimeo.com/147904573)
  
  
• [Iron Works - Blacksmithing with the Sony FS5 by OC Films] (https://vimeo.com/147975548)
  
  Below $8000
  
  In this price class, you should consider the shoulder mounted 4K [$7999 Sony FS7] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P7AK580/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00P7AK580&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20). It is a proven doc camera with power zoom compatibility that has produced 1080p content for CNN and others.
  
  Here is the image quality this camera can produce:
  
  
• [The Wonder List: Yakel Village, Tanna, Vanuatu by Philip Bloom] (https://vimeo.com/119020133) (shot for CNN)
  
  
• [Arizona in Winter by Biff Malibu] (https://vimeo.com/118882037) (shot for the Super Bowl on NBC)
  
  Hope this is helpful, good luck with your upgrade - and Happy New Year!
  
  ...

The most important accessory that you can get for any mirrorless camera is a couple of extra batteries. The X100T is supposed to have better battery life than previous cameras in the series, but it's still a good idea to have at least a back-up battery -- maybe more, especially if travelling.

I have these: http://www.amazon.com/Wasabi-Power-Battery-Charger-Fujifilm/dp/B005CRHM5C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411507057&sr=8-1&keywords=wasabi+power+x100s (Not sure if X100T uses the same battery as my X100s).

Some things that are ergonomically helpful are add-on grips, such as the lensmate: http://www.amazon.com/Fujifilm-X100S-Thumb-Lensmate-Silver/dp/B00E259GCC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411507115&sr=8-1&keywords=thumbs+up+x100s , though I use a knock-off: http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER-Thumbs-TU-100S-Camera-Sliver/dp/B00C9UROH6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1411507115&sr=8-5&keywords=thumbs+up+x100s , and it works fine. Another ergonomics helper is a soft shutter release button (the shutter button on the camera is an old-school threaded one), there are tons of these on the market, again I went with a knock-off ( http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JCJO5QU/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1411507202&sr=1&keywords=soft+shutter+release ) and it's fine.

As far as the hood / filter-adapter, I would recommend buying this. I don't really care for the lens hood (though it does cut flare) but instead use the filter adapter and a B+W MRC UV filter. I've never used UV filters on digital before, and still don't on my interchangeable-lens cameras, but being that this is a fixed lens camera and I'm pretty rough on it, I just use the filter and toss it in bags without a lens cap or anything and it's just fine.

A different strap may be good, it's all personal preference. I use a leica non-slip strap and it's great.

Here is a nice neoprene case that will snugly fit the X100s for carry inside some kind of other bag: http://www.amazon.com/OP-TECH-USA-Digital-D-Compact/dp/B0001TSSM2/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1411507453&sr=1-2&keywords=op+tech+compact

Fuji makes wide/tele converter lenses for 28mm and 50mm equivilent perspectives. They are supposedly very good but I haven't used them.


Other than that, it's all in what you want to shoot. filters and tripods might be nice for landscape shooters, lighting gear is nice for portrait shooters. Just like any other camera, really.


If you're new to photography, I would recommend picking up some books -- start with Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson and The Photographer's Eye by Michael Freeman. A book about the X100T specifically would be helpful too -- they are sure to come out soon.

Start slow:

The zoom kit (assuming we're speaking of one of the versions of EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6) will be great for:


a) Well lighted scenes (i.e., daylight)

b) Capturing wide images as well as mildly zoomed in images. Don't expect the extreme digital zooming of point and shoot cameras. The upside of your kit zoom being that it will not lose optical quality like those digital zooms.

c) Figuring out what it is you like to capture more. For example I like the isolation of subjects so I tend to use higher focal length lenses more often (think the 55mm end of your zoom instead of the 18mm).


What will you soon realize:

a) You want to take better images in low light. In this case you need to consider lenses with apertures (aka. f-numbers) of 2.8 or larger. Larger meaning a lesser number than 2.8. This number, the smaller it is, the wider it opens and lets in more light.

b) You have a predilection for one end or perhaps the middle of the focal length spectrum. You will then perhaps look for primes that have the wide aperture (2.8 or higher) OR a zoom that perhaps stays at 2.8 (these can get expensive so watch out!).

Many people get the Canon EF 50mm 1.8II because it works well for portraits and low light. Not ideal for inside the house in your camera because it has what we call a crop sensor. This means that your actual focal length will be the number on the lens, say 50, time a crop factor of 1.6. Read more into this on your own. Lots about it on Google and Youtube

OK, accessories:

I personally recommend aftermarket batteries. I bought these which even inculde a charger. Don't expect the same battery life as your original battery but it will get you out of binds. These are much cheaper, though. If money is not an issue then do as you wish

Post processing software might be something you need. Lightroom is a good way to start,I believe, but I personally use Photoshop. I'll let other experienced members chime in.

Asides from that you'll feel certain needs as time goes on. Your lens will get dirty and you'll need a lens cleaner (look online for best reviews, etc.) Many people like the lens pen, btw.

Anyway you get the point. But the most important thing is to go out and enjoy your camera. This is a beautiful hobby that brings peace, appreciation, and excitement to a lot of people. It can also bring frustration but keep a positive and curious attitude and you'll see your photography improve a lot.

One last thing! Learn these concepts... Aperture, Shutter Speed, and ISO. Learn what they are and how they interact to provide an exposure/image. This is crucial, imo.

Hi /u/sanityrepresent - I own the BMPCC , and with the right setup, it can be a good, inexpensive first camera. But first you have to fix the few things that make it a challenge to shoot with out of the box, e.g. the tight crop, the "iPhone-like" ergonomics, the dim LCD and the short battery life.

Crop

You absolutely need a wide angle lens to shoot indoors with this camera. I have an old Olympus 11-22mm f2.8-3.5 with a Panasonic DMC-MA1 adapter that gives me a full frame equivalent 32-63mm. But it was expensive. If I was starting again from scratch, and couldn't afford a Speed Booster, I would get a [used Nikon mount Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 for about $400] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2FLenses-%2F3323%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3Dtokina%2B11-16mm%2Bnikon%26rt%3Dnc%26LH_BIN%3D1) and an [inexpensive Nikon G to micro 4/3 adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TROEBM/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B003TROEBM&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) (this is the adapter I use for my Nikon lenses).

Ergonomics

Yes, you can buy or build a shoulder mount - but that can be expensive and/or time consuming. I built my own for less than $200 and I love it ([here] (https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QW78g2jQbeU/U2mZ-aV32NI/AAAAAAAAIzg/E4d9v8aCmME/w963-h543-no/P1080600.JPG)'s a photo - I'll post the parts list if you like), but it turns out I don't use it much.

Instead, I use a [$24 pistol grip with a trigger] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=221603818145&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) - just like my old Super 8 cameras from 40 years ago. With the right stance, it works great to keep the camera steady and is a lot less hassle than my rig.

You will also need a [$10 cold shoe] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJFBUCQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00HJFBUCQ&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) if you want to mount a mic, light or recorder on top of the camera.

LCD

It is very difficult to see the LCD outdoors (or even indoors, in a brightly lit room). The best solution for this problem is an LCD Viewfinder. I bought a Kinotehnik LCDVF BM ([$118 at B&H] (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1013082-REG/kinotehnik_lcdvfbm_blackmagic_pocket_2ea_mounting_plates_soft.html), [$159 at Adorama] (http://www.adorama.com/LCDVFBM.html?KBID=66297)).

With the pistol grip and the LCD Viewfinder, this camera becomes a joy rather than a pain to handle. Here is a pic of my setup: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-f3hbYYV_y8o/VHDp77GMxoI/AAAAAAAAJF8/xnHRvNcCm5o/w724-h543-no/P1020575.JPG


Battery

I started out by buying a bunch of spare batteries, but that was unmanageable, so I am getting a [$70 belt clip adapter for my Sony camcorder batteries] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LPJ1FJ0/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00LPJ1FJ0&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20). If you don't have any of these batteries laying around, you can [buy them for $10] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007Q9PWQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0007Q9PWQ&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20). They have twice the capacity of Blackmagic batteries and cost less. I would get at least two of them plus a [$17.50 dual battery charger] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=321347920244&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) (I have one of these for my Sony batteries and they work great).

With this setup, you will have an easy to shoot with, affordable, RAW/10-bit ProRes Super 16 camera with 13+ stops of dynamic range for about $1675 all in.

Good luck!

HCR

A question before I start; will you be using an editor to sync things up in post or would you rather take things together(audio and video) and have them all sorted out at one time?

Here's a list of things that I think would be beneficial, but not an encompassing list. If you're trying to go for a cheap list that could still get the job done, I find that these items have decent reviews on Amazon and websites and they do offer a good starting point for a budget.

1. The Camera: Canon EOS M2 ($250)
   
   I feel like the Canon EOS M2 would be a strong contender. It is actually a mirrorless camera that has the same sensor as that of the more expensive T3i. Due to it's lack of popularity with photographers due to the slower autofocus, it has seen multiple price reductions. Although it contains autofocusing issues in the photography modes, it's video modes are what really helps this camera out. You have a good starting lens with an 18-55mm lens, which may be wide enough for that room at 18, but it could even be close enough for a closer image. You can even be more technical and add in other features. Also this camera has a direct mic-in line for use of an external mic, like the shotgun mic below.
   
   
2. The Audio: Zoom H1 Portable Audio Recorder $99 OR TAKSTAR SGC-598 $29.99
   
   Audio is key here. You want to be able to hear the pastor as he gives sermons, so you have two general models. You can place the portable recorder closer to him, giving you crisp audio at a very minimal distance, or you can attach a shotgun microphone to the camera and pick it up from a distance further away. The only thing is, would you rather have the camera do it all for you or would you rather have to sync up the audio in editing? The Zoom mic is nice because you can purchase one of these ($21.38) and mic the pastor up before service to give a very crisp lapel audio.
   
   
3. The SD Cards: Sandisk 64GB 80mb/s ($22.49)
   
   This should be a given.
   
   
4. Power and Adapters: AC Adapter ($15.50) OR 2-Pack Spare Batteries($28.99)
   
   You can choose to have it either plugged in the whole time during recording, or you can have it run off of batteries. Your personal preference.
   
   
5. Tripod: AmazonBasics 60" tripod ($23.49)
   
   You requested a tripod for the ease of use.
   
   Given that you live in the US, after taxes, you're essentially looking at a $500 setup for all of that equipment. That may not be the best equipment for people or even be suggested by anyone else here, but that is just my $0.02.
   
   
   Source: Use the EOS M1 and most of the gear listed.

Hi /u/misdy - welcome to /r/videography! I am a big fan of ring lights because you only need one to get nice, even light.

With two or three, it looks like you have a whole studio full of lights.

I started out with a [$120 AC powered Ring Light] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B1V6QAU/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00B1V6QAU&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20), which I bought after I saw this review: http://www.lafcpug.org/reviews/review_diva_ring.html

This is a fabulous light, but I needed a light that was battery powered and portable - so I bought a small, but powerful [$199 F&V R-300 Ring Light] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AY0J4OY/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00AY0J4OY&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) with a [$25 Milk Diffusion Filter] (http://www.adorama.com/FVMWDR300.html?KBID=66297).

Here is what the lights look like on a [$28 pair of light stands] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001WB02Z4&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20): https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jrqsQtPN3TU/U1sjz3-jwnI/AAAAAAAAIt4/k2WveyQeO4o/w724-h543-no/P1120732.JPG

The R-300 runs on either a 12V AC adapter or a [$10 Sony camcorder battery] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007Q9PWQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0007Q9PWQ&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20). I bought a couple of them along with a [$19 dual battery charger] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=321347920244&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg).

You can also buy a [$40 rail mount] (http://www.adorama.com/FV15RMR300.html?KBID=66297) for it and put it on a set of 15mm rails. This light does a great job in the field as well as in the studio.

Here it is on my camera: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-rhqiHavOnGM/U1J4paO2vRI/AAAAAAAAIrk/eW1mhniD0gY/w724-h543-no/P1120708.JPG

Two F&V lights, two stands, a couple of milk filters, two batteries and a dual charger and you'll have a pair of cool, powerful and compact portable lights that will fit into very small spaces - all for about $500.

Hope this is helpful!

Bill

Batteries - $22 - https://www.amazon.com/Powerextra-DMW-BLC12E-DMW-BLC12PP-DMC-FZ1000-DMC-FZ300K/dp/B01IMQAVDY/ref=sr_1_19?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1518114737&sr=1-19&keywords=panasonic+g7 - Always used these and they've never let me down. G7 lasts a good 5-6 hrs of shooting, but another battery can get me through an entire day.

Luckily for audio stuff, audio isn't much of a concern, but if you need something, the VideoMicro is only around $50.

Bag choices are endless and i really cant recommend one simply because there are so many options. Look at B&H or amazon. I use the Lowepro Transit Sling (around $35) when i'm traveling. In general, lowepro makes a ton of good options that aren't crazy. I also love the Canon 100DG or 200DG bag for something a little bit bigger

For lighting there are a couple ways to go. On the ultra cheap side, you can essentially DIY a lighting setup using home depot clamp lights and/or work lights. But that's like emergency level broke. You're better off just saving up and picking up either a few budget LED panels or I also REALLY like the older Lowell Pro light kits that you can get used. They're tungsten hard light kits but are great as a solo shooter. I picked up a 4 light (200w/each) kit on ebay with stands, gels, diffusion, case, etc, for around $200. For LED panels, i recommend looking at the Yongnuo YN300iii. It's $60 but it's better than most LED options under $100. Keep in mind that you will need a stand ($20) and batteries ($20).

For memory, pretty much any UHS-1 speed card from a major manufacturer will work. You can get away with 32gb but you'll probably just want to pony up for a 64gb. It's up to you though. I use various sandisks. Here is a good one - https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Extreme-32GB-UHS-I-SDSDXXG-032G-GN4IN/dp/B01J5RHBQ4/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1518115492&sr=1-3&keywords=sandisk+extreme+uhs-1+32gb

I'll keep adding stuff as i think of it

I found these:

Goingpower

Maximal Power

Celltime

I have the first two, but to be honest I can't be sure which one is still good. I am almost positive it's the one I got for free from buying a shitty off brand charger and the battery has no brand at all.

I'd actually like to try the last one, as it holds more charge than the other ones, but I'm happy with Maximal Power. They sell a two pack for 30 bucks, if you have amazon prime it's 2 day free shipping.

Edit: Again, I can tell you if I have the money to blow, I'd get all name brands, but neither my 60D nor my 5Dmkii complained. I had my 60D two years and change, and my 5Dmkii since last august and it was used.

Does that include everything, like you need audio equipment to fit the $1k budget too?

Assuming that's the case, here's what I would buy...

The Panasonic G7 camera kit, the Rode Filmmaker wireless mic kit, and the Rode VideoMicro. Grab some spare batteries for the camera while you're at it. Rechargeable batteries for the mic are also a good idea.

That's the best video kit you can get on that budget right now.

The G7 is a great camera, easily the best 4k video for the money, and you absolutely have to have the audio gear for interviews, and good video in general.

Use the wireless mic for interviews, and the VideoMicro for b-roll and everything else.

Also, fyi, the a7 doesn't do 4k video anyway.

I know using 18650s is trendy (and pretty easy if you use an amp board from Parts Express, they sell battery holders that plug right into the boards) but I’ve been a big fan of using a removable battery pack (with its own safety circuit), like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RNnoDbP0KDB6R


I built a mid sized boombox using these: https://reddit.com/r/diysound/comments/7ph3ck/update_pelican_550_budget_audiophile_boombox/

Using this type of battery makes it easy to swap batteries instead of recharging them inside the unit (I use industrial velcro to keep them secure inside the boombox), and like I said, they already have safety circuits. I like to put an externally visible volt meter on the power switch circuit so you can know how charged your battery is too.

One limitation is you’ll be limited by the amperage of the safety circuitry on the battery configuration you choose. With 18650s you can get a lot more wattage depending on how you configure them, with the battery I suggested you’re limited to 3 amps at 12 volts, so 3 x 12 = 36w total

This very well may have been my friends, as we usually extend our sessions after the sun goes down.

We have a couple of these headlamps. Cheap, and super bright. They have a zoom function so you can concentrate the light as needed:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QAAZY00?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00

Then we use these as floodlights. Not super durable, but very bright and cheap, and the brightness is adjustable via dial.

http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER%C2%AE-Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=pd_bxgy_421_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0BFHGB0K90J2N6SASFDM

http://www.amazon.com/Generic-Replacement-NP-F550-Digital-Battery/dp/B0007Q9PWQ/ref=pd_sim_421_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=51DW8ndgtKL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1QD2ST71K4MTG47GN6J7

http://www.amazon.com/niceEshop-NP-FM50-Np-f330-Np-f550-Np-f570/dp/B000OPB4U6/ref=pd_bxgy_421_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0BFHGB0K90J2N6SASFDM

Two is enough to light up anything but really big problems. We combine those with the headlamps and have been able to light up things like High Plains Drifter enough to get good video in the middle of the night.

Trust me, this is what you want. Most of the people who have climbed with us end up asking me later what lights we were using so they can buy some for themselves.

They come with 2 non-rechargable cr123s. I'm not too confident on rechargeable options, but I know that whatever charger you're going to get needs to be able to adjust to correct voltage of batteries and protect against overcharging.


NITECORE i4 (New 2014 version) Intellicharge universal smart battery Charger For Li-ion / IMR / Ni-MH/ Ni-Cd 26650 22650 18650 18490 18350 17670 17500 17335 16340 RCR123 14500 10440 AA AAA AAAA C types with Ac and 12V DC (Car) power cords, 2 X EdisonBright AA to D type battery spacer/converters https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KBGDK8M/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_20zyub109G7SE

--

EDIT: here's a link to some batteries - 12Pcs Tenergy Propel CR123A Lithium Battery with PTC Protected https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003EOMVX8/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_04zyub066SV4Q

--

Also, another commonly recommended flashlight on this sub is olight's s10 or s20. Similar specs as 47s, but a little cheaper with a different button layout and UI that people seem to like... I've never owned one myself (don't like the side button), so I can't give any more details on it. This one doesn't come with batteries though Olight S20 Baton LED Flashlight 470 Lumens - Use Two CR123A or One 18650 Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AJNSL5O/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_v8zyub125ZVNP

--

Bonus for this light is that it can fit an 18650 battery, which will last a very long time.

I've had plenty of success with the Windcamp kit. I have yet to run it down completely while doing SOTA, but I don't usually operate for more than an hour. That said, I'm running 5w SSB the whole time.

For more juice, and if I care a little bit less about weight, I'll run the internal rechargeable pack in combination with this lovely little pack. There's also the option of just removing the internal pack in this case, but I like having a "reserve" battery.

At some point, I'd like to have a BioEnno LiFePO4, perhaps 6-9 amp-hours or so. And I'd combine this with some sort of solar charging setup. But for now, the above seems to cover most of my needs.

If you want to build it yourself: you are on the right track.

If you want a (almost) ready solution, then this might be what you are looking for. It's a simple 11.1V - 3S case with (5V) buck converter and a BMS. You should test if your horn works down to 9V. If that's the case then this will be an excellent solution.

>Given the voltage and current requirements, should I expect to be able to build this in a convenient handheld size and weight form factor?

This will depend on your usage. You should test the horn and calculate it's power consumption.

>Does a 4S system sound reasonable here? If so what kind of battery protection and charge circuit am I looking for?

As stated above, you need to test your horn to test its voltage range.

>Can I reasonably charge a 4S system from USB? Is there a convenient boost converter board out there to do this, or built into a 4S battery management board?

For simplicity I would go for a dedicated 3S or 4S charger.

>Should I instead consider a single cell battery system with a DC-DC boost to drive the load? That would seem easier to charge and manage the battery, but 3.7V to 12-14V at 10A seems like it might be a hefty boost converter.

14V * 10A = 140W.

140W/3.0V = 46A

You'd need to draw 46A from your 1S pack of cells.

​

I've used power extra and Opteka and Wasabi power

Initially they'll all perform the same as the OEM battery but wont last more than a year or two depending on how often you use them.

I'd go with wasabi they have reasonable brand recognition. Pretty popular 3rd party gopro battery supplier. Probably lasts longer than the other lesser known brands but I managed to loose my wasabi battery so I can't vouch for it's longevity.

Still better than buying a bunch of Canon batteries if you're going to be going through a bunch of them in a day.

But if you just need an extra battery you might want to just invest in the Canon branded one since it will last for years.

Since I usually just use my t3i for Macro stuff in a more studio-ish environment. This is a life saver. highly recommend you get one if you use your camera indoors and on a tripod often.

Hey u/Zak, late reply, but how do these Tenergy's look?

[Amazon(https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B003EOMVX8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2AOMP7GTQZFW0&psc=1)

[They're available on Fenix-Store and have good review there(http://www.fenix-store.com/cr123a-tenergy-propel-3v-w-ptc-lithium-battery/)

I can't seem to find much info about them online, other than this review which detracts me from purchasing:
CPF Review


Thanks for your help, much appreciated.

The Canon T3i is probably the best bang for your buck camera-wise. They are limited to 12 minute clips, but as mentioned if you're sets are longer than that you can install magic lantern firmware.

I would buy the body only, and then get a cheap used zoom (like the 18-55) off of eBay.

Rode makes a few sub $200 mics that are all really nice.

Good sound is very important, especially for comedy, so definitely don't skip out on sound gear.

For tripods, check thrift stores, I find nice tripods there all the time for $3.99.

Lastly, you'll want some extra batteries. Don't buy them from stores, they cost usually cost 40+ bucks. These are the ones I buy. Two batteries for $10 is a steal. Never had an issue with them.



That puts you at about $564

My original post is based on trying to replicate from pictures what someone else has done which, presumably, worked at some level. Metal detector technology, particularly in the battery department, is still in the stone age. Dealing with 8x AA cells is unreasonable and ends up with a ton of crap in the landfill, hence my wanting to swap out so something better.

So, if building something like this is complicated, unsafe, etc... what's the happy path to getting to where I want to be?

Something like https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-3000mAh-Lithium-External/dp/B01M7Z9Z1N

and setup an adapter from the current battery pack connector to convert to it?

To be clear, I'm not doing this because I have any desire to build a battery pack, I'm just trying to get somewhere more reasonable than a fistfull of AAs.

It's been suggested, but the 5" Raspberry Pi screen would work, but has a resolution of 800x480. Another advantage is it can be powered by a USB battery bank via the micro USB.

Personally I'd go with something like this 7" 1024x600 and power it via a 12v/5v power bank and you'd be in it for $95, but that's because I'd like a slightly larger image.

When I used to install security cameras I used a Photography external output as it has an included battery and is pretty simple.

The best flashlight I have ever owned is my Surefire Guardian M6LT. At $400 it is also the most expensive flashlight I've ever owned. This is a searchlight/spotlight with an incredible throw. I live on the side of a mountain and have lit up bears and coyotes with it from around 75 yards away. I can point it at trees across the (short) valley here and see them light up. At 300 yards I can see the light reflecting off metal bits from light poles. Occasionally I'll point it straight up into the sky just to enjoy the beam, and allow neighbors to do the same. It is a remarkable piece of gear that I expect will last me a lifetime. My (now ex-) girlfriend once asked to borrow it to take camping and I said no. It is simply too expensive and powerful to leave in less capable or responsible hands. In my defense, I offered her my smaller E2E Executive but she was still pretty irritated.

Surefire CR123A batteries are expensive, near $2/ea, but you can use the Tenergy brand to bring them down to about $1.12/ea. The M6LT takes six of these batteries and has a runtime of 3 hours at a rated 900 lumens. The output is constant, not variable. If you want variable output, I would suggest the M3LT ($430) or the UB3T ($550). For me it came down to the form-factor and already having a lower-output flashlight for lesser duties. This is a searchlight and you would go blind trying to look at something lit up from only five feet away.

Here's a video showing the throw, here's a video of unboxing and comparison between M6LT and M3LT, and here's an M6LT video with music to get you pumped.

I also purchased a GizzMoVest case for it some months ago so I could attach it to my belt for hands-free carrying while hiking. It's worked out wonderfully.

TalentCell Rechargeable 12V 3000mAh Lithium ion Battery Pack for LED Strip, CCTV Camera and More, DC 12V/5V USB Dual Output External Battery Power Bank with Charger, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7Z9Z1N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ad.kDbVMMFR4B

This is the battery. I bought a couple of these 3000 maH ones. Thanks also have a v-mount battery but this one is great for more run n fun style shooting.

The cable I made myself out of a 12v connector and the AC power supply included with the camera but you can buy new ones on Amazon for reasonable prices

I have an EOS M.

I'd suggest installing Magic Lantern firmware to unlock 3x lossless crop zoom which gives you the same benefits of the t3i crop zoom.

Along with the 22mm it came with, I have a Canon 50mm f1.8 and a Sigma 30mm 1.4 that work with my Fotodiox EOS M adapter.

The EOS M goes through batteries kind of quick, so I bought a 2 pack third party Wasabi batteries and charger.

I also have an EOS M AC adapter which lets you plug the EOS M into a wall or to a large battery like this...



Here's a couple videos I shot with the EOS M.

• Home Studio Setting
  
• Event Coverage
  
  It's a great starter camera.
  
  I wish it had remote shooting, so I can use apps like DSLR Controller.

The Spongeface kits are awesome, and require very little modification on the pack itself, have fun with it and take your time!
As for the battery you want something along the lines of this: https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-12000mAh-Multi-led-indicator/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=talentcell+12v&qid=1562712683&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
And some Barrel plugs to wire it with like these: https://www.amazon.com/43x2pcs-Connectors-Security-Lighting-MILAPEAK/dp/B072BXB2Y8/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=barrel+plug&qid=1562712775&s=gateway&sr=8-4


Also definitely check out GBFans.com! The forums are a really handy place to find info and parts of all kinds for Ghostbusters props of all types.

I have the Neewer CN-160 which are LED fixtures for only $27.95 on Amazon. Of course these are cheap and have a color cast. They do, however, operate off of NP-F550 batteries so if you plan on filming on a location without wall outputs, you can easily use these. Although, just as HybridCamRev said, The F&V R-300 Ring Lights are great options but more expensive. They're brighter and can hang right over the lens of your camera or off on a light stand. These are great because you only need one to evenly lite your subject (in this case, yourself). It all just depends on your budget.

Good day. I am in the final stages of completion of a Pelican Boom Box and have a question about charging this [Lithium Ion Battery](http://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-12000mAh-Multi-led-indicator/dp/B00ME3ZH7C) I have linked. If you click through the images you can see that I presently have the battery wired to a terminal block that goes up to a switch and the charging port on the exterior of the case.
For charging I used an [SAE socket](http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031BOTFC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s03) because that is what all the accessories on my motorcycle are powered by. I have replaced the end of the included wall charger for the LI battery (12V @ 1A) with the corresponding SAE plug. My goal is to be able to charge the case on AC from the wall plug, or DC from the bike or any other 12V outlet. When I spoke with a representative from the battery company they stated that 1A is the max amperage the battery should receive.

My questions are these;

1. Do they make a product that is an AC to DC converter that will allow DC input to pass through and become regulated to a specific amperage if that is what it was connected to. I'd prefer to have as little external of the box as possible. My desire is to have the wall AC/DC converter internal to the box so if I plug in an external power cable to AC through the SAE socket it will convert to DC @ 1A and if I were to plug in to a DC source it would regulate the incoming voltage to 12V @ 1A. If a product like this does not exist, can I add some sort of amperage regulation in line so when I'm powering off DC I don't blow my box up.
   
   
2. I was receiving a significant amount of interference from the bluetooth module and when hardwired to the 3.5mm jack from my cell phone. A ground loop isolator inline solved 90% of the noise, but I didn't know if there were any other tricks you had.
   
   
3. In order to extend the antenna of my bluetooth dongle I'm going to solder an additional antenna. I used (300/2450MHz)/4(1/4 wave)=.030cm. If I did that correctly, I would need a 30mm antenna to act as my 1/4 wave bluetooth antenna.
   
   
4. For audio switching between the Bluetooth module and the 3.5mm jack I ran each channel of each input to it's own section of a 4pdt relay, from a switch that also switches on power to the Bluetooth. The output of the relay goes to the amp and I jumped the output of both relay sides to have one cable. For the audio grounds I connected them all together for the two input and one output cable. All the audio works fine, I was unsure if this was the appropriate way to do it, or if there is something better.
   
   Over all this has been a fun project and I look forward to version 2.0.
   Build Link

Thanks for the quick and informative reply. I think I'll go with [this one]https://www.amazon.com/Powerextra-Compatible-DMW-BLC12E-DMW-BLC12PP-DMC-FZ1000/dp/B01IMQAVDY) as it mentions the exact battery model and comes with 2 other batteries, and it has good reviews. Thank you for the help :)

You know, I was about to type a long reply but I've decided to be lazy and copy/paste the contents of an email I sent to a buddy who just bought a T3i. I use a 60D, and use all these things, but most all this stuff should work for you with a 5D.

Crane and eyecup:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003SAHSVI

Cards:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WE4HE2
I buy 8 or 16 gigs, with the idea being that that's NOT a lot of room. If I had a 32 or 64 gig card and that card failed I'd much rather lose 16 gigs of footage than 64 gigs which could be an ENTIRE production.

Batteries:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ZSHKIO
Work justs as good as the Canon name brand ones.

My 'Kit' lens:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EXR0SI

Cheapo plastic shoulder mount we used for the music video:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036NMQ7S

Gini camera rigs:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/gini-2011/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686
I did a minimum purchase right as the auction ended, and snagged their "dslr rig pro 10" for 235 + shipping. If you look at their past auction history, it seems like EVERYONE does this.

Audio Recorder:
http://www.amazon.com/Zoom-Handy-Portable-Digital-Recorder/dp/B001QWBM62/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1315766729&sr=8-1
They just got me this bad boy at work to plug my XLR mics into, so I record audio to it, and video to my dslr and then sync in FCP. Works awesome, however you probably could do the same thing with your HDV camera, they'd be about the same size.

As always: cheesycam.com has the best reviews and whatnot on all this stuff.

Here's KEH.com's listing for the kit lens you are looking at. They have a rating system with UG at the bottom, then BGN, and up. I'd go for BGN though, they tend to be extremely conservative with their appraisals. http://www.keh.com/camera/Canon-Digital-Zoom-Lenses/1/sku-DC079990648100?r=FE

Remember, it's the glass that matters. so buy the (or borrow my) cheapest lens you can and start saving for the nice lens.

I have three of these, and arlo pro 2's. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0721PJYTY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

For some reason they have bad reviews, but they work great. Keep the battery constantly at 100% durning sunny days. I highly recommend them. Make sure you get the Arlo ones. I tried a knock off one before because they where cheaper. The camera thought it was constantly plugged in and thus the battery just drained.

Most if not all of your example images could have been taken with a 18-55 lens - the kit lens. The main difference between the kit lens and "better" lenses in its focal length range is the last 5 to 10% increase in image quality (IQ) will cost an additional $400 to $1000.

Here is a link to some images from the kit lens.

• http://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/122-lens-clubs/45425-kit-lens-club.html
  
  Here is a link to a lens focal length simulator
  
  
• http://imaging.nikon.com/lineup/lens/simulator/
  
  In your example images, I am going to guess that a lot of them were taken at around 24 to 28mm.
  
  I am going to go out on a limb here a bit and say the only two lenses you are going to need (for quite a while - several years), are the DA 18-55 WR and the DA 55-300 WR. Between the two, you can cover everything. They are as small as you can go and as light weight as possible, and both WR (need to have the WR or AW designation as there are non WR models also available). Using stitching will give you wide angle shots. Long exposures will give you low light shots (the longer the exposure the greater the need for a tripod).
  
  Tripods can induce sticker shock too. Removing the last ounce becomes VERY expensive. Here is a good overview.
  
  
• http://hikeitlikeit.com/2014/lightweight-tripods-for-the-hiker/
  
  
• http://www.jmpeltier.com/2015/02/24/5-lightweight-backpacking-tips-for-photographers/
  
  Note - all tripods usually come with a center column. The shake that the legs remove, if you use the center column up - it will put back in. So, keep the center column down, and since you have the tilt screen on your camera body, use it in LiveView to frame the shot and shoot the image.
  
  I took a look at the Ks2 user manual, and it does not support a cabled external shutter release. You have your choice of an IR shutter release, or a WiFi (smart phone) app tethered capability. See pages 61 and 91 of the manual.
  
  
• http://us.ricoh-imaging.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/KS2-OPM-EN.pdf
  
  The Pentax OEM battery is very good. It takes about 6 hours to charge and is good for about 600 shots. A good third party battery costs 1/4 and is good for 3/4 of the shots and charges in a bit over an hour or so. Check out a Wasabi battery on Amazon.
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Wasabi-Power-Battery-Charger-D-LI109/dp/B00598PMY2
  
  

Congratulations. Treat yourself and your camera
to make an X100T really rock, and be an extension of your arm get yourself a thumgrip and a wrist strap. I wont sugar coat if for you. you want a Lensmate thumb grip....which costs an astounding $60. yup, trust me on this. You also want a Gordy's wrist strap. a bit cheaper there. not only are these outstanding accessories, they also make your camera look cool. Oh, love my Fuji but he battery charger is probably going to break. Get this. wall charger, with car and European adapter plus 2 extra batteries. you will need those too. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CRHM5C?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

I think the best quality and most useful products were the Neewer Battery Grip and some no-name Canon batteries from Amazon. The batteries are not quite as good as the original batteries, but for the price, they are great to throw in your bag as extras!

Neewer Batter Grip $19: http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Battery-Grip-Canon-Rebel/dp/B004UTQRHW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367941647&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+grip+t2i

Batteries (x2) $6: http://www.amazon.com/LP-E8-Equivalent-Battery-Canon-Rebel/dp/B003CVLTCW/ref=pd_bxgy_p_img_y

It's definitely possible, ESPECIALLY if you're willing to buy refurbished.

Canon 60D

Canon 70-300mm IS USM

meFOTO tripod

SanDisk 16GB memory card

Camera bag

2 extra batteries and an extra wall charger/car charger

Lens Pen (to clean your lenses)

Rocket blower (to clean your camera)

Done. All under $1500 (when I did the math it came out to ~$1400 for all of this). And you can even buy a cheaper bag or use one you already own if you so choose. Or a different brand of tripod. I just chose that one because it can fold up compact and it's pretty light so it's easy to travel with.

I have no idea.

However, I'm assuming you'll need a new battery and I definitely recommend these. I bought one for my vertical grip and it holds as good a charge as the Canon. I just picked up a second one last month and it functions perfectly as well.

I have a wasabi that came with my bundle as a spare. No difference from Sony.

I also bought a 2 port hub from RavPower on amazon to charge my batteries and it came with 2 more batteries. RavPower makes some pretty good power banks for my other devices and I figured for $30 I'd give them a shot with my camera. Those batteries work just as good as the original as well.

https://www.amazon.com/RAVPower-Replacement-Batteries-Versatile-Compatible/dp/B01JG54F3C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496402313&sr=8-2&keywords=sony+battery+replacement

The technique is much more important than the camera at this level. I would get the Nikon D3100 with 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 lens and a 55-200mm f/3.5-5.6 lens. Then you would have plenty of money left over for accessories (or other lenses once you know what you want) and maybe a good book on photography technique.

edit: An extra battery can be a lifesaver. Also, make sure the memory card is fast enough if you plan on ever taking video.

Both of what these guys said is great advice and you will definitely have to consider what to do.

The G7 often fluctuates in price between $500 and $800 so try and get it on sale if you can. Find a price tracker website and use it if you don't check prices everyday.

If you go with HybridCamRev's idea, I would highly recommend getting the g7 on sale. That would allow you to get an sd card, shotgun mic, battery, and a lav mic. You could also go for a cheaper tripod since the g7 is so light. Up to you though.

There are tons of discussion on this topic here, dp review forums, YouTube etc

Based on my experience I would recommend Wassbi batteries ( two batteries with charger). Been using it for almost 2 years now without any issues. Costs around 25$

Recently a friend of mine bought Rav Power dual battery pack. Which is said to be excellent

Check out these and the Amazon reviews of these

1. Wassabi
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01HFOJUCW/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1511952769&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=npfw50&dpPl=1&dpID=51-XPAAM0PL&ref=plSrch
   
   
2. Ravpower
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01JG54F3C/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1511952769&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=npfw50&dpPl=1&dpID=41PVL8BPYqL&ref=plSrch

Yes it is a for a Blacksys Ch-100b. The reason I was asking is because I am interested in wiring a 12v power bank to my dash cam. For example something like this, and I wasn't sure if I could connect the power bank directly with a 12v DC cable, or if I needed to splice that cable to include those fuses in between. Looks like I should include the fuses in between right?

Here is a diagram of how I plan to connect everything together. Does this look right?

Couple additional thoughts...

• I didn't see a PFD on the list? Looking at the fly-fishing vest I'm pretty sure that's not a PFD.
  
• Rod leashes -- I find a bit of 3mm accessory cord (or 550 paracord) and a couple knots serves just fine as a rod leash. Set up a running bowline on one end to drop over a cleat or rod holder, then double half hitch around the rod ahead of the reel foot.
  
• Sonar - make sure you know the difference between the Striker 4 and the Striker Plus 4, as well as the difference between the chirp-only transducer and ClearVu+Chirp version (4cv). Pricing on these is not all that far apart, and it may be worth a few more $$ to get the newest model (Plus) instead of the old version (non-Plus).
  
• Battery -- Have a look at lithium ion vs gel-cell. Striker Plus 4 has a stated current draw of 0.4A -- so a 6000mAH/6AH battery such as this one should last you all day. TalentCell Rechargeable 12V 6000mAh/5V 12000mAh DC Output Lithium Ion Battery Pack https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME3ZH7C
  
  • (for full disclosure, I've only been able to bench-test that battery with my EchoMap 73sv so far, hope to get on the water with it this weekend.)

The other option for the a6000 is the 18-200mm. It gets you almost the zoom range as those two lenses separately. Its bulkier than the 16-55mm (which is the range you'd probably use for everything except for wildlife photography or doing sports or something), but could be a good option (If you are willing to buy used or stretch your budget)

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/used/732292/Sony_SEL18200_DT_18_200mm_f_3_5_6_3_Zoom.html

pair it with a used a6000

https://www.adorama.com/us%20%20%20%20970738.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw-uzVBRDkARIsALkZAdmHe42BhoOPy5-DyCSqp-Wtj4n7bq6TGnVK7RKfoHAwsNYROVwcnUwaAl5WEALw_wcB

and a couple extra batteries with a USB charger

https://www.amazon.com/RAVPower-Versatile-Charging-Compatible-Original/dp/B01JG54F3C/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1522222753&sr=8-5&keywords=a6000+battery+usb&dpID=41PVL8BPYqL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch


I personally don't really have a problem with 2 lenses (I just carry the extra in my daypack or larger jacket pocket while traveling if I think I need a second one with more zoom), but I can certainly understand how one is appealing.

Yes, you'll want to pick up a few decent memory cards. I'd run into issues with some of my old cards which I had no idea were too slow and my video was randomly shutting off without me knowing. I personally recommend SanDisk Extreme Pro cards which are about as fast as you can go for SD cards that your camera supports. Ever since switching, I no longer had any video issues.

As far as batteries are concerned, unless you're doing a ton of video you'd be surprised how long a single battery will last. My 60D was able to shoot a day-long even with over 1000 shots and it still had a good amount of juice in it. If you want extras, you effectively have two options: official Canon batteries which are expensive, or cheaper 3rd party batteries which aren't nearly as pricey. Personally I buy 3rd party Wasabi Power batteries and of the 7 I've purchased, only one has ever failed me and I suspect bringing the camera into some extreme cold this past winter might have had an impact on that. Even so, for the price of one Canon battery I can get four Wasabi Power, so I generally just go that route.

Love my Surefire, I use these and they work just as well as the brand name batteries and for a fraction of the price.

12 pack

40 pack

It looks like Grandmother requires 12V, 2A, DC

So, you want a lithium ion battery pack that outputs 12V and 2 amps or more.

https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-12000mAh-Multi-led-indicator/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/

^ that one is 6000mAh, so it’ll power Grandmother for something close to 3 hours. You can buy heavier batteries that have more capacity if you want. Be sure to check if your Moog requires center positive power (likely) or center negative. That’ll be indicated on your power supply.

Just remember we are random people on the internet, and this could void your warranty :)

I have a couple of computer fans I use on my dob and I use a battery like this:

https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-12000mAh-Multi-led-indicator/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=lithium+battery+pack&qid=1566324764&s=gateway&sr=8-6

And I bought the DC connectors like this:

https://www.cnaweb.com/2-1mm-dc-male-power-connector-lead.aspx?gclid=CjwKCAjwtO7qBRBQEiwAl5WC20VrLjHXGBXkCLMt44xbVpt3Up1zdyBDOrTEufdV_-4oIaX_5QjTaxoCLSoQAvD_BwE

Wired the fan to the connector and it now plugs directly into the battery. I built a splitter with one in connection and 4 out connectors so I can plug multiple fans using only the one battery. The battery lasts several nights, charges easily and is fairly small and portable.

Why not just use a 12V rechargeable battery pack? Converting DC voltages can be done efficiently, but I'd be surprised if a $10 device was designed with efficiency in mind. Further, connecting devices in parallel to increase current supply is usually a tricky proposition.

https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-12000mAh-Multi-led-indicator/dp/B00ME3ZH7C

Go with Wasabi batts, best 3rd party brand out there.

The cells are going to be re-wraps of something random. See the Q/A section of https://www.amazon.com/ask/questions/asin/B00ME3ZH7C/5

The original rating is 12000mah, which makes the original cell capacity 2000mah each. It's also listed as 3A mac discharge current. I see no way to tell if that limit is in the controller or the cells themselves.

Also, the cells appear to be in a weird 2p3s layout, but I can't tell by the pictures.

Note - these are likely connected by spot welded metal straps. Getting them separated can be a challenge, and getting new cells in place will require more spot welding or soldering, as I don't see any spring loaded contacts to allow easy replacement.

IMHO, use the power bank as-is. When it stops doing what you want it to do, toss it in a Home Depot or Lowes batery recycling box.

Powerextra 2 Pack Battery and Charger Compatible with Panasonic DMW-BLC12, DMW-BLC12E, DMW-BLC12PP and Panasonic Lumix DMC-G85, DMC-FZ200, DMC-FZ1000, DMC-G5, DMC-G6, DMC-G7, DMC-GH2, DMC-GX8 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IMQAVDY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mfg.BbVFD1APG

I bought these ones a while back and they are great. I don’t notice much of a difference when it comes to battery life between these and the original battery.

Yeah I've looked very carefully at those cheaper options as well, and wonder if this lower-capacity one (6000mAh @ 12v) would be enough to power a mount and a USB cooling fan.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME3ZH7C

Assuming you are in the US RavPower batteries have the most / best rating on Amazon. I have a couple of these. But actually the two Sony batts in my grip usually last me for whatever I am doing (a6500) so I have not used mine much.

17v and 800 mA is an unusual value. Since most 12-volt supplies are usually more like 14 volts, one of these 12-volt rechargeable battery packs will probably work fine. You will need to work out a comptible cable to connect the ampifier, though.

I've had good luck with Wasabi Power replacement batteries: https://www.amazon.com/Wasabi-Power-Battery-2-Pack-Charger/dp/B004VTAVLE

700 battery (close match)

I just ordered this battery. I will try it out later today and see if it charges ok. $9 for 2 batteries. Easy peasy to change it.


Good luck...

I shoot for a tour & travel company and travel a lot (3 weeks traveling 1 week home, for the past 8 months). I originally had 5 batteries and that would get me through. I recently added two more because I bought an a6300 for my mother or gf to use when we went on a vacation together. I occasionally would use it as well as a second body to do video with. All of my batteries are Sony because I have never found an off brand camera battery that didn't become a paper weight after a few months of rigorous use. When I used to shoot Nikon I got burned a few times from this. I have been told they are better, but I refuse to go down that road again. You can if you like, but I urge you to read reviews carefully. If a reviewer says it works fine after a few charges, that is not long enough to have an informed opinion.

For charging I use this two battery charger. It feels cheap but it gets the job done. It comes with two off brand batteries. I did not even bother I just recycled them. I have 2 of the chargers and I usually rubber band them together and toss it in my suitcase. Those live in my hotel room usually. For when I am out and about I will keep one of these smaller one battery chargers in my camera bag so in an emergency I could be charging a battery. I usually only use it if the weather is very cold and I know my batteries will die faster. The good thing about it being USB is that I can plug an external battery bank into it and charge one of my already depleted batteries while I am shooting with another battery. For external battery banks I use this anker 13400mah one. The construction is solid, it charges things almost as fast as a wall outlet, the capacity is pretty accurate and it has two ports so I can charge a camera battery and something else if I need to. Overall it is a great battery bank, probably not the absolute best, but still great.

If you are going to be away from outlets for 3 days you might want to get a beefier battery pack. Depending on your shooting style of course. Anker makes a lot of sizes even up to having this properly named powerhouse.

"Add a fuses" (plugged into power window circuit, which only turns off after door is opened), fished wire over to passenger side where I crimped on a 2 USB port 5V DC/DC adapter (VHB taped behind glovebox, grounded locally to a ground point -- check with a multimeter!), and ran a lengthy USB cable under the plastic trim to the cameras. You should be able to force the wire behind rubber seals along the door frame and up the A pillar. You should also be able to hide the cable in the seam between the rear seats and the flooring/felt.

Tip: If the wire falls out from the crack between the window and plastic trim, wrap a few loops of tape around the wire. Its increased thickness keeps it hidden and not dangling in front of your passenger.

I know this wasn't clear. I can draw a picture if you wish. I also did the same with my GPS, so the singular 12V socket doesn't have a squid of USB cables going all over the car. Note that the suction cups don't stay on well on hot or cold days. I used VHB tape to attach a camera behind my rear view mirror (onto the screen printed sun shade dots no less).

DC-DC converter

Add-A-Fuses (Though look for ones for your specific fuse variety)

VHB tape (used to attach the DC/DC converter; fixes the suctioncups not adhering well)


If you're feeling adventurous, I wanted to try to make a UPS for it using one of these. (For public parking lots / when car isn't on)

I picked up this. Seemed like a good price. So far so good!

Aside from the lead-acid battery (which I think is fine, just heavy), there is a pretty long list of crappiness:

• Made in China with the absolute cheapest components you can imagine. The circuit boards inside are thin, single-sided, and appear to have been assembled by chimpanzees.
  
• The multi-voltage outputs aren't regulated. It's literally a resistor network providing the different voltages. Good luck actually getting the stated 1A out of each of them. And as the 12V battery voltage gets lower, the 3V, 6V, and 9V outputs drop as well.
  
• The charging "circuitry" is completely stupid. The green light that is supposed to tell you that it's charged -- yeah, that's just an R-C circuit with a crazy-high impedance resistor that makes the LED slowly get brighter over about 8-10 hours. It actually has nothing at all to do with the voltage of the battery.
  
• The charger outputs 15V, and the charging port is wired directly to the battery, which is why you have to switch the unit to "charge" mode to charge the battery. There is no battery management or charger cut-off, so if you forget to unplug the charger, it will eventually destroy the battery.
  
• You can't charge the battery while in use.
  
• You can't charge the battery from a standard 12V car plug
  
  For the money, you're WAY better off buying something like this: https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-12000mAh-Multi-led-indicator/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1465616058&sr=8-4&keywords=12v+lithium+ion -- that will run your mount for the entire night without breaking a sweat (assuming you don't have to run dew heaters or anything), costs 75% less, and is small and light enough that you could actually velcro it right to the mount.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M7Z9Z1N/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1. We only used it for a short while because of her age, but I've heard reports from others that they kept going strong after 5-6+hrs.

Three. Funny. Pick up two more

http://www.amazon.com/DB-CAN-LP-E6-Rechargeable-Replacement/dp/B003ZSHKIO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1301426735&sr=8-2

I shoot these and they work great

Depends how much local storage you want, as well as fps/resolution.

I think an easy/cheap solution would be a Wyze Cam with a little battery bank that has a 5v output to use instead of the charger as a UPS, like this one. That'd give you upwards of 12 hours uptime when the power goes out.

Wyze advertises max capacity SD card as 32GB which will only give you 2-3 days of HD video storage, but there are plenty of reports of using a 64GB or 128GB formatted to exFAT. If you do supply your own larger SD card, just make sure you format it with a tool designed specifically for formatting SD cards.

If you look at Page 116 for the TechRef Manual the front battery port has the following pinout:

1 +5V
5 +12V
7 GND
8 GND

So something like this could potentially power it while fitting in one of the disk bays like the modems usually did

To piggy back off this, a cheaper solution might be to just buy a 12v portable battery pack and car port adapter to charge it, though a jump start battery and solar panels are definitely solid investments if you don't mind spending a bit more.

I wanted to find a different higher mah battery to put into mine and just did a bunch of research last night and found a battery that would fit. I found somewhere though that the psp won't charge bigger batteries completely or something along those lines. I'm not sure though. Anyway here's the link to the 1200mah battery that will fit. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EDQ6LZ0/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_yre-BbQNB0EYP


Edit: for PSP Go

A friend uses this one with her Spectra and loves it. I never used it because I didn't know about it for baby #1 but may get it for baby $2 (whenever that happens). TalentCell Rechargeable 12V 6000mAh/5V 12000mAh DC Output Lithium Ion Battery Pack for LED Strip and CCTV Camera, Portable Li-ion Battery Bank with Charger, Black (Multi-led Indicator) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1UauDbEFXEF3G

These are the two batteries I was looking at so far

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=as_li_ss_tl?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00&linkCode=sl1&tag=reemedcoa-20&linkId=191c1678d31e4d67fd9a7cc984426bce

https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP1270-Rechargeable-Lead-Battery/dp/B003S1RQ2S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496774277&sr=8-3&keywords=12v+lead+acid+battery

I'm trying to use the speaker enclosure as my case so the lithium might be a better option due to size.

I returned the Rode Pro and ordered the Pro +. Already ordered spare battery's I got these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IMQAVDY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
which I hope are encoded. I got the Movo 4" bar and this tripod
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LW14QNB/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't know which the OP used but it looks like this one.

TalentCell Rechargeable 12V 3000mAh Lithium ion Battery Pack for LED Strip, CCTV Camera and More, DC 12V/5V USB Dual Output External Battery Power Bank with Charger, Black https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01M7Z9Z1N/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_KFC0Db1MG56ZZ

If you want smaller panels you're going to sacrifice by them not charging fast enough. You're trying to get too much.

Instead of going solar why don't you just get Wasabi LP-E8 compatibles. https://www.amazon.com/Wasabi-Power-Battery-2-Pack-Charger/dp/B004VTAVLE/ref=sr_1_1?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1466534713&sr=1-1&keywords=wasabi+lp-e8

Real LP-E8s are only 8.1Wh the Wasabi are 14.4Wh and WAAAY cheaper. I use Wasabi GoPro batteries and Wasabi LP-E6s all the time. Way better than the official batteries for either.

Wasabi power lithium batteries from Amazon. Paid something like $12 each versus $45 for OEM ones.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00598PMY2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421866704&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=51z1%2BRCBmHL&ref=plSrch

I've been extremely pleased with the capacity of these - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JG54F3C

I'm just finishing up a portable bluetooth speaker. You need a 12v battery (5v ones are for charging phones and other small devices) - this is the one I used.

The Lepai runs on a 12v power supply. The TDA7492 can run on 8-24v. You will get more power out of the amp when giving it a higher voltage, generally.

Assuming you go the bluetooth route - you can find 5v and 12v bluetooth boards. I'd go with 12v since you can use the same battery without a step-down converter. If you want to add a 5v output to your suitcase, for bluetooth or phone charging, Talentcell makes a battery with 12v and 5v. It's only a few dollars more.

not sure how much money you're willing to spend, but i would probably get a rechargeable high capacity lithium ion type battery for maximum time. something like this. you might get 3 hours out of that instead of 30 min from the 9V.

but if you only expect to use this thing once of twice, maybe getting a pack of 9Vs and changing them out every 30 min is more economical to you.

and you might end up spending similar amounts of money on getting one-time use C cell batteries. you would need 6 C-cells (1.5V each) in series to get 9V.

Soo...$100 CAD is an OK price?

Or is this official enough: https://www.amazon.ca/Nikon-EN-EL14-Rechargeable-Battery-Digital/dp/B003ZYF3M8

From their website:

>Is there a battery pack that can be used instead of hard-wiring the harness to the motorcycle battery?
>
>There are several 12v battery pack options that can be purchased separately that will work with the ACH-1 connectors such as this option from Talentcell. Please read the specifications carefully and be sure to use a battery pack that does not exceed 13v and works with the ACH-1 connectors. The length of time these batteries will power the helmet in AC mode will vary, but you can expect the following approximate times:
>
>3000mAh battery should power the helmet for around 2 hours
>
>6000mAh battery should power it for 4 hours
>
>12000mAh should work for 6 hours.

Given the sizes and capacities of the modern lithium batteries, it should be possible to build one with a built in battery.

I'm putting together a photography kit for my wife, after asking questions here before and doing a lot of research I've come up with the following items I'm going to buy this week for her, looking for any thoughts or suggestions on my choices:

> Sony A6000 Kit
> $598
>
> Sony A6000
> E PZ 16-50mm f/3.5-5.6 OSS Lens
> E 55-210mm f/4.5-6.3 OSS Lens
> SanDisk 32GB Extreme UHS-I SDHC Memory Card
> Pawa NP-FW50 Lithium-Ion Battery Pack (7.4V, 1030mAh)
> Ruggard Onyx 25 Camera/Camcorder Shoulder Bag
> Adobe Rebate: Get 3 Months Of Adobe Creative Cloud Photography Plan + Storage
>
> -
>
> RAVPower Camera Battery Charger Set
> $35.99
>
> External battery charger
> 1100mAh/8.14w Spare Battery x2
>
> -
>
> Sony Screen Protector for A6000
> $14.00
>
> -
>
> SanDisk Extreme Pro 64GB SDXC Memory Card
> $23.77
>
> -
>
> KAZA Royal Blue #1 A6000 Leather Case Combo Set
> 119.99*

Total: $791.75

There's sadly not many but it does seem like more models are appearing.


Here's one with adjustable voltage output from 3.7 to 12v


Here's another one is adjustable from 8-24v I think.


You can also buy something much larger like this and build your own and use anywhere from 3 to 90 18650s in it lol.

There's also these which sadly have non removable 18650s inside but someone could mod it to make them removable once they actually die ... or IMO just use it till the cells don't hold a charge and then replace them in a similar fashion by soldering (which we know isn't as fun as being able to change out 18650s but it's safer to have them married all the time.)

Yes here

Seems like this would do the trick? https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-12000mAh-Multi-led-indicator/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=asc_df_B00ME3ZH7C/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309836137809&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16566657222778969287&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004287&hvtargid=pla-403917176387&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-12000mAh-Multi-led-indicator/dp/B00ME3ZH7C

edit : or this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H8F5HYJ/ref=emc_b_5_t

this one is quite cool:
12v + 9v + USB outputs... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01337QXMA/ref=emc_b_5_t?th=1

https://www.amazon.ca/TalentCell-Rechargeable-3000mAh-Lithium-External/dp/B01M7Z9Z1N/ref=asc_df_B01M7Z9Z1N/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292943804548&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10893949785442520224&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-567419672093&psc=1 something like this, you just uh it into the 12v wall charger thst you use for your IH

This has been recommended, haven't purchased, though:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B98J67O/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_25?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2ND001GBQ4OXX

Also this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A24OIV2F0TL1K3

Here is the battery I used

https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-3000mAh-Lithium-External/dp/B01M7Z9Z1N

My friend built it, so not sure the process, but he soldered the wires together and placed in plexiglass

http://www.amazon.ca/Wasabi-Power-Battery-2-Pack-Charger/dp/B004VTAVLE/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1416160675&sr=8-17&keywords=wasabi+battery Just spend thirty bucks worth of these little fuckers, their great

Canon T3i goes for $350 Used on B&H
Get two extra batteries on Amazon for $21
Finish it off with a 32GB SDHC Sandisk card for $18

I couldn't find the exact one I had bought but here is one that looks identical from amazon and around the same price. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OB8QDbATX0Z44

Sure it does... plenty available, though not sure they have this specific model in CA: TalentCell Rechargeable 12V 6000mAh/5V 12000mAh DC Output Lithium Ion Battery Pack for LED Strip and CCTV Camera, Portable Li-ion Battery Bank with Charger, Black (Multi-led Indicator) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rHrVCbXV6V2H3

I definitely think that sounds reasonable.

I have an s2, I mostly pump at the office too. I’ve seen a hack where you can use Velcro strips and this lithium battery to make the s2 portable - but I haven’t tried that myself. I did buy a car adapter which Ive used once when my mom watched the baby while we went on a date.

Raspberry pi 3b plus, screen controller( depends on what your screen is), and 12v and 5v power bank with the case torn off so it would fit

If you don't already have extra batteries, I use these for my A6000. I really recommend them.

Only complaint is the status lights, if you're colorblind. There's one for each battery compartment and it's green or red depending on status, allegedly.

Just got mine from Amazon a few days ago. Comes with a mount but it is only for the panel, not camera/panel combo mount. It's the same mount sold for the Arlo Pro. It also comes with a 6 foot charging cable. Amazon link

While not an eliminator, this instructable shows how to add a micro USB charging circuit to a UV-5r.



Or you could always just replace the car plug end of the eliminator with a 6mm barrel and run it off of one of those 5v/12v hybrid power banks

Searching around leads me to believe that the lighthouses won't draw much more than 1A@12V, but likely draw closer to 0.5A@12V most of the time. This decently reviewed, 6000mAh@12V battery on Amazon will get you probably about twelve hours of battery life.

I would give this a look see http://www.amazon.com/Wasabi-Power-Battery-2-Pack-Charger/dp/B0049XGNKK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1396493818&sr=8-2&keywords=canon+6d+battery

Me and a buddy split the cost of these, so it came out to $1 each.

I have a 5i and it will run all night on this. Plus the plug is correct for the mount. Literally just plug it in and you are set.

TalentCell Rechargeable 12V 6000mAh/5V 12000mAh DC Output Lithium Ion Battery Pack for LED Strip and CCTV Camera, Portable Li-ion Battery Bank with Charger, Black (Multi-led Indicator)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_a-5CDb6VKZY6E

I'd just buy this or something similar.

Hi, check this out.

You can program the BLE and use this battery

https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-3000mAh-Lithium-External/dp/B01M7Z9Z1N

This battery fits in the little elastic pocket and will run for hours on high.

TalentCell Rechargeable 12V 6000mAh/5V 12000mAh DC Output Lithium Ion Battery Pack for LED Strip and CCTV Camera, Portable Li-ion Battery Bank with Charger, Black (Multi-led Indicator) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pEJ2DbV5CXXJW

But why?

You could this so much better with a standard usb battery.

TalentCell Rechargeable 12V 3000mAh Lithium ion Battery Pack for LED Strip, CCTV Camera and More, DC 12V/5V USB Dual Output External Battery Power Bank with Charger, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7Z9Z1N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6W6SDbXQGKG8Z

$25 for something simple.

Or if you need a LOT of power,

TalentCell Rechargeable 72W 132WH 12V/11000mAh 9V/14500mAh 5V/26400mAh DC Output Lithium Ion Battery Pack For LED Strip and CCTV Camera, Portable Li-ion Power Bank, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016BJCRUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RY6SDb975MER2

$65.

Most people use these without issue it seems:

https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-12000mAh-Multi-led-indicator/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=pd_aw_lpo_267_bs_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=JS4M0C51KHPDBD7YT0X2

$14 Discraft Weekender Bag

$24 12V Rechargable Battery Pack

$15 UV LED Strip

$4 Menu cover

$6 Power splitter

$5 Power Plugs

Total = $68

Fog and Rain, PDX baby.

I was buying a 40 pack of CR123's every 2 months when they were 50-60 bucks.

They don't make my light anymore but this is close with a much narrower beam angle.

Here is the image set of my first set of mods. http://imgur.com/a/XptY6

Since then I have moved to an external power supply, and switched from the internal mic to a throat mic and an external PA speaker. The fans I used were 30mm x 30mm computer fans being powered by this power cell.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDQ6LZ0/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME3ZH7C/

Parts list:

Amp:
http://amzn.com/B016I5F4WE

Battery:
http://amzn.com/B00ME3ZH7C

Speakers:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R14X2/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-R14X2.html

Subwoofer was from an Altec Lansing computer speaker set, and the box can be had at any local military surplus store.

Personally didn't want wires everywhere, so I bought a cheap 12,000mAH 12v/5v USB power brick and velcro'd it to my sunvisor. It powers my dash cam for a whole week before needing charging.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

How much did you pay for them? Cheapest I've seen is $6/battery for a brand that I'd trust. I've got 4 cameras so at $6 that is $96 to go rechargable. (Plus probably another $24 to have a set to swap in so I can have 5 sets of batteries for 4 cameras) I've bought these tenergy 40 pack for $44 on amazon and that should last me at least a year. When I run out of these I'm definitely going to have to consider rechargeables again (I hate the waste as well).

It does say they have a BMS so it’s got some protection for the cells. I’m not sure if it would be full capacity for that price. I recently tried out this power bank/12v battery

Used Velcro to attach it to the back of my project. I’ve used it for a week and it’s still half full and you can always peel it off the Velcro and use it for a usb power bank.

Rocket Blaster

Spare Battery

Lens Filter - ok you will hear all kinds of opinions on this one. Me, I put a filter on the front of all my lenses as soon as they come out of the box. i also never use a lens cap and I spend a lot of time shooting in dusty/sandy places. To me I would rather replace a filter than a lens. Other people will disagree.

This is the link I posted before, I believe:
https://www.amazon.com/INSMA-8000mAh-Rechargeable-Circulation-discharge/dp/B01C46AW8W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1474906337&sr=8-3&keywords=CCTV+battery

This is the other style, this one has a lower capacity, but they have them in higher capacities, as well.. Just a little more expensive:
https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-12000mAh-Multi-led-indicator/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1474906337&sr=8-5&keywords=CCTV+battery

Not rechargeable, but I've been running these in pretty much all of my torches for over a year and a half, with no complaints.

Price comes out to just over a buck per. I've not gotten any duds, and still have almost half the box to go.

For posterity, found a battery solution that worked great, iof anyone else has the same problem -- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M7Z9Z1N -- has a built in switch, has 12v out via a barrel jack, has 5v via USB. USB stays on as long as the switch is on, even under tiny load (just an Arduino). I linked it to a barrel jack adapter, here: https://www.adafruit.com/product/368 . Power to Arduino via USB, common ground to the barrel jack power adapter terminal block, capacitor across the terminal block, power and ground out to the Neopixel strand.

Here is one of the LED strips that I use. When you open up the packaging hold your breath as you get a nice smell of the factory the thing came out of, and it is depressing. leaving it over night to air out.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ASHQQKI/ref=twister_B07GKRQT3K?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

The LED track I currently use for the frame

I purchased some good adhesive backed Velcro from Big Box store and cut everything to fit the bike frame for easy install and removal if a light strip goes out.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use this battery pack for the bike frames and the smaller ones they sell for the wheels.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There are some basic extender clips off amazon for the LEDs that "work" to connect the frame parts together but short of soldering all the extender clips are hit and miss, so find what works for you.

For the wheels you can do one of three things for installing. 1

Buy lots of strong adhesive ( a glue gun doesn't work that well and can melt/boil the glue tape the strips come on) and physically fit a square into a round hole. Glue the strips to the wheel frame so the lights are facing to the center but at an angle of the wheel. While the strips are bendable they are only bendable going up and down not side to side so parts of the strip start to bow-out but those spots can be forced into place with enough adhesive. The strips will start to separate from the wheel frame because physics dictates this can't work. It is what I did first to both wheels. The front side didn't work out but the back wheel has been holding together for the past couple of months.

2

Buy some clear flexible tubing from local box mart and some zip ties. Keep the protective adhesive tape on the LED strip so it can still slide into the tubing and use the zip ties to attach the tubing to the spokes. It will look like shit but it gets the job done. Also cut zip ties are sharp so it kind of turns the wheel into a shitty chainsaw.

3 buy a 3D printer to make clips to hold the LEDs to the spokes.

As for the power supply I temporary have some Velcro holding them to the wheel spokes, that I am trying to fix.

I'm in Ontario and I've had no problems getting Wasabi or Ravpower batteries shipped from amazon in the past two months.