(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best car exhaust parts & accessories

97+ XJ's use Vacuum controlled HVAC with electrical to control some stuff.

Here's what i'd fix - it's all easy, btw:
1.) Blower motor resistor:

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D1R1Wj-NVmw
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-973-416-Blower-Motor-Resistor/dp/B009IF2LEQ
  2.) Pull off center dash, remove HVAC controls and make sure that the rubber fitting is still sealing right. On my TJ about 4 years ago, mine was leaking. I pulled it off, spit on it, been good since. yeah, weird, i know.
  3.) Check your Vacuum ball behing your passendger side front bumper. Make sure it's still attached, and plugged into the vacuum line. You may need some vacuum line elbows: https://www.amazon.com/APDTY-Vacuum-Tubing-Connector-Assortment/dp/B00JH2EWQ0 or hose https://www.amazon.com/Pico-5164PT-Vacuum-Tubing-Package/dp/B00030CZ7S
  4.) Ensure that your vacuum line is still in one piece. Find the line and your engine bay, and just inspect as much as you can find. Make sure all ends are connected, tubes still solid, and the one going thought your firewall next to your A/C lines is still in good shape.
  5.) Make sure all lines on the (driver side) intake manifold are still plugged in.
  
  Here's a good video on a TJ - Same shit, different car.
  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_xrf9aTcdRk
  
  Have fun!

The wrap started black, too, but the paint really deepened the color.

Wrap

Paint

The wheels are both 16"x3.5" (Roland Sands Diesel), and the Coker tires are 16"x5.1". That's why the front tire looks so much "fatter" than stock. So far they've got just under 1000 miles on them. Street performance is great, and the ride is super comfortable. It took a little while to get used to turning, though; the wheels resist the turn a bit more than stock at first, but once you get started they really want to keep going.

Here's my reddit post from when I finished her last year, if you want to know more.

This is the one I bought and love it

Had it about a year so far and work great. Excellent tubular design with flex joints like in later models. Bolts on real easy like.

So I've had all three: XR650L, KLR650, and the DR650, plus a few Euros.
XR650 has by far the best suspension (most offroad capable), but a small aftermarket scene and is expensive to mod.
DR650 has a good suspension (off and on road), good engine (buzzy though) which is air-cooled (more on that in a minute) but is also expensive to upgrade. It is very reliable, like the Honda and Kawasaki, and has its own following of fans. But the engine does run hot in the summer, and if You're riding slow trails, and/or traffic, it gets downright hot as hell sitting over it.
KLR650 is the tractor of the three. Gears and engine overbuilt like a WWII German King Tiger tank, will not break or quit even with piss-poor maintenance. 1st Gens had something called a "doohickey" problem (timing chain tensioner), not the 2nd Gens (part replaced with a thicker more stout part).
I put over 30,000 hard miles on my KLR, beat the living hell out of it, wrecked on dirt and rocks enough times to barely walk many a time because I ride like a maniac, I ran the oil changes every 10k miles (full synthetic but never the less my goal was to see what it would take to kill it as an excuse for another bike). Yet to my amazement, the stubborn bastard would not give up or even develop issues.
Dead simple carburator (rebuild kit is a ridiculous $16.29 https://www.amazon.com/Karbay-Carburetor-Rebuild-kawasaki-repair/dp/B07C1NPH6C)
The engine is superbly reliable (same design for 30 years), simple and excellent electrical system, easy to push-start if the starter should ever decided to quit (highly unlikely), big & easy to read analog gauges, large 21" front heavy-duty thick spoked wheel, plenty big rear wheel.
The only drawback is the front fork...however an aftermarket heavy-duty kits are readily available, and relatively cheap in contrast to any other brand:
Performance: https://touratech-usa.com/Kawasaki-KLR-650-Suspension
High-Performance: https://www.motocd.com/?make=101&model=105&post_type=product&action=vpf-search
How tough & how good is a KLR650 for real This says it all...
https://www.advpulse.com/adv-bikes/klr-650-suspension-upgrade-vs-ktm
KLR650 BARELY gets beaten by a "KTM 990 Adventure R" by only 9 seconds on a 2.3 mile track for 1/3 of the price 😂
Mind You the KTM has 76 MORE horsepower and 2+ extra inches of suspension travel on the KLR. I still LMAO @ KTM today about this. A $6000 KLR basically owned (for the price value and performance) a nearly $15,000 ($8k-$12k used) performance bike!
Now save Your money, and grab one of the '16 and newer ones for a good price and You'll thank me all day 👍🏻

I used the Ambother kit on Amazon it was like 35$ or so and I have the aodonly dual exhaust which was 250$, worth every penny! Only been on for a week or two but it sounds great! Without the baffles in its a bit extreme😂😂

Ambother LED kit

Aodonly Exhaust

I did a muffler delete with vibrant 3.5-inch dual tips.

I made a couple mistakes on this one that I should mention... they are not regrets as much as things i would have liked in hindsight to have thought about.

• Had I to do it all over again while removing the mufflers would save me a lot of weight, I would have left them on and had cut them open and welded straight pipe inside of them. they would have mounted in the stock locations using the stock hardware, but... would give that muffler delete sound.
  
• The vibrant tips i chose just barely fit in the diffuser openings and the installer had to work on it a while to get them straight and not hit the sides... this required additional attachment points and such. (see my previous statement) Had I chosen the next smaller size down for the outlets, they would have been framed better in the diffuser ports AND there would have been less labor/effort
  
• I had the exhaust installed by a performance shop and not a muffler shop. just think, guys who work on exhaust all day vs guys who take their time to do a very clean specific job. I thought I wanted the latter, but I really should have chosen the former.
  
  All this aside, I think that the muffler delete is the best E39 mod you can do. I think people that ride behind me on BMW club drives may have a differing opinion, but on the whole... (preparation H feels good) It was well worth it.
  
  EDIT - I skipped over the part where you were cash poor. I was kind of task-driven to answer the question. Agreeing with others here, you may want to reconsider putting your money into a car when you should shore up your life a bit first.

Dammit, I wasn't planning on spending much money right now, but you inspired me and I just bit the bullet. I had some amazon reward points, so that's why I went there instead of somewhere else.. Not the full setup, but should make life more interesting ;)

So something like this? Presumably just uncouple the lines and slide this stuff over them? That seems pretty easy.

Thanks for the help!

What milage is it at? Sounds like its misfiring. Very common that this is the ccv. Around every 100000 the ccv needs to be changed. This helps regulate oil timing of the throttlebody ect.

QUWEI PCV Crankcase Vent Valve Breather Hose Kit for BMW E46 3 SERIES E39 E60 325i 330i 325Xi 330Xi 11157532649 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GZY78X6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MkN-Ab11KSKY9
This is pretty cheap for a car saving repair if this is indeed the problem.

The replacement is hard but there are some good youtube videos. Good luck pal

Invidia Gemini true dual catback with burnt titanium tips paired with AAM Competition high flow cats. Since this video was taken, I switched the tips out for these carbon fiber and stainless steel tips because somehow, when I was out of town for work for a couple weeks, one of my original tips went missing.

If you want a smooth exhaust tone with no drone, no rasp, and a good volume, this is definitely one way to go. You can keep it reasonably quiet if you're being easy on the throttle, and you can easily make it roar when you get on it. Definitely no tinny/raspy sounds like some Gs and Zs (which is fine if that's what you like, but it's not my personal preference.)

The Invidia sounded great, and I had it for almost a year by itself, but I decided I wanted it louder and a bit more aggressive.

The AAM Competition high flow cats are a great pairing with the Invidia for some extra volume, and still no drone. Also, these have been on for about 1000 miles now and haven't thrown any CELs, so that's a big plus.

Here's where I got them:

Invidia Gemini catback

AAM Competition high flow cats

Exhaust tips


Edit: Content

hahaha yeah the front plate is all wrinkled from when it was on my truck...that kissed a snow bank. I'm think I just need to order some fresh plates.

I have a bunch of mods

• JB4
  
  
• P3Cars Boost Gauge
  
  
• BMS OCC
  
  
• BMS Clutch Stop
  
  
• BMW Performance Short Shift Kit
  
  
• BMW ZHP Shifter
  
  
• BMW Blackline LCI Tail Lights
  
  
• AR Design Catted DP's
  
  
• Magnaflow Axle Back Exhaust
  
  
• HPF FMIC
  
  
• Active Autowerke Charge Pipe + BOV
  
  
• AFE Stage 2 sealed CAI
  
  
• Eibach/ Bilstein Cup B12 kit with adjustable dampening
  
  
• VMR 19" Staggered V710's wrapped in Michelin Pilot Super Sport
  
  
• Dinan Camber plates
  
  
• Rolled Rear Fenders RolledbyP
  
  
• MTEC 8000k HID's
  
  
• Black Out Kidney Grills
  
  
• Tinted Amber Corners and 30% Tint all around
  
  I currently have LUX angel eyes which are dim during the day and I'm swapping them for the Alpine HID kit

RR racing has a chip that came out last summer that adds like 15 horsepower (so they claim) that costs $350. Also, I love my K&N cold air intake on my 350, it's a throaty growl when you step on it and it supposedly added 12 horses. The intake system also improved mpg +2 on the highway. I also replaced all interior lights with LED's myself with a kit I found on eBay, very nice bright white light, it replaces side door lights and trunk lights too. Ummm I replaced my gear shift knob with a Lexus certified F Sport shifter and I also carbon fiber vinyl wrapped the door trim on my F-Sport. Also went with 15% tint. The only two things I want to do on mine is to powder coat my brake calipers F Sport blue and add a full catback exhaust.


Links:

Lexus F-Sport PTR51-53080 Shift Knob https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CBR5D16/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ECDfzbMZH3GD4

3M 1080 CF12 BLACK CARBON FIBER 60"x12" Vinyl Flex Wrap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058DIDTY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bDDfzbP2R0MC3

LEDpartsNow Lexus IS250 IS350 ISF 2006-2013 Xenon White Premium LED Interior Lights Package Kit (10 Pieces) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HRMSXWQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xDDfzb3B2AYG1

K&N 69-8701TP Typhoon; Short Ram; Polished https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NKCM3A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.DDfzb9NA8CTV




https://www.rr-racing.com/v/mobile/product.asp?productid=is350tne01




http://www.modinjapan.com/pts-joe-z/pts-isx-full.html

Awesome thank you. This looks like the exact part - https://www.amazon.com/Ruien-Hardware-Stainless-Universal-Connector/dp/B07NYBY5W5

Will find a good alternative. Are there any treatments i can put on the metal to help with rust?

Combination of parts from Amazon and ebay. Not all of them are necessary, fittings and Brute trashcans and such are from Home Depot.

• 12v, 20A power supply ($17)
  Runs the lights, pump, fans, and other electronics. Kind of excessive. 5A would be enough.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E6S0JS4
  
  
• Check valves, x2 ($10)
  Don't cheap out on these. Crappy plastic check valves really screwed me early on.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KZOCQMA
  
  
• Shutoff valves, x2 ($12)
  Needed for priming the pump or flushing the nutrient reservoir.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018HMFG7O
  
  
• Mylar ($10)
  This was roughly 4x what I actually needed.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B8PAAJW
  
  
• Leca ceramic substrate, 4 pounds ($18)
  Transplanting the sprouts into this was weird, but they took well to it.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004IAM29K
  
  
• Vinyl tubing 25ft ($12)
  Everything I chose was 5/16 inner diameter.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CGVJ9QG
  
  
• Net pots, 5in, X20 ($13)
  Hydroponic pots, specifically for Leca substrate.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N9AE9BE
  
  
• Air bubbler ($13)
  I think that dripping from two feet aerates the water naturally, but this can't hurt.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L17IPEO
  
  
• Warm white LED strip ($11)
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01339F5ZO
  
  
• Cool white LED strip ($11)
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01339G2F6
  
  
• 270W UFO Light ($60)
  Wait for sales on these! The 270W light is $80 now, but I got it for $60.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RWQ4B50
  
  
• Sealing foam ($8)
  To make the door airtight.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011CXIPO6
  
  
• Nutrients ($33)
  This will be enough for a bunch of grows. A little goes a long way.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017H73708
  
  
• pH Control Kit ($18)
  Will also last a long time. Only takes a few drops to balance a gallon.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BNKWZY
  
  
• Activated carbon filter, 4 inch ($40)
  This thing was bigger than I anticipated.
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E582DV2/
  
  
• Barbed T splitters x10 ($10)
  For making the irrigation loops.
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/302176243137
  
  
• 12v PC fan ($3)
  Loud as heck. Ended up using a quieter fan I had around.
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/272508816366
  
  
• 12v pump ($15)
  Quiet as heck. Rated for 2.1GPM. It's enough, but I think that a 5GPM pump would have been better.
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/272403296601

If you want to stick with single exit here's an excellent alternative to Tomei. Greddy is pretty good quality:


https://www.z1motorsports.com/exhaust/greddy/greddy-revolution-rs-370z-single-exit-exhaust-p-12047.html ~$750

ISR Single Exit that is Y-Pipe back


https://www.enjukuracing.com/products/isr-performance-single-gt-exhaust-nissan-370z.html ~$400

Invidia's kit has a very exotic growl to it

https://www.amazon.com/Invidia-HS09N7ZGID-Cat-Back-Exhaust-Titanium/dp/B005QRNZ8G ~$950

DNA Motoring is on the budget side, it's a replica of Ark's Grip kit. This is actually the kit that I'm running on my car with test pipes and I couldn't be happier. Plus it's very inexpensive so scraping and bumping it doesn't bother me, if a hole develops I'll just swap in a new kit.

https://www.amazon.com/DNA-Motoring-CBE-370-D-CBE370D-Stainless/dp/B00TY3ALLW ~$250


Agency Power

https://conceptzperformance.com/agency-power-2.5-catback-exhaust-system-stainless-tips-nissan-370z-z34-ap-z34-170_p_11455.php ~$720

It seems to me that you care more about sound than performance, so it doesn't really matter which one you choose in that aspect. Look up some YouTube videos on these and pick your poison. I hope this helped a bit

Phat mufflers don't have any foam in them, but still reduce the noise significantly. I have the 6x26 and it reduced noise output by like a half. Great buy imo if the noise of the fan bothers you.

http://www.amazon.com/Phat-Filters-Muffler-26/dp/B0055F3EPI/

This is a good kit

https://www.amazon.com/Design-Engineering-010378-Engine-Injecter/dp/B015NOKWQY/ref=asc_df_B015NOKWQY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312684231807&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6194809803259040541&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030815&hvtargid=pla-570207636650&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=60983009663&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312684231807&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6194809803259040541&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030815&hvtargid=pla-570207636650

Might be a good time to do the fuel injector upgrade. Look it up there is a ton of info on this upgrade. Replacing the spark plugs would be good preventative maintenance. If you can maybe run a compression test before you reinstall the spark plugs. I do that to all my new cars to get an idea of engine performance and wear-down.

I just changed mine today. It's on top of the engine.

Remove the oil cap, then remove the large plastic cover over the top of the engine. The purge valve is on the drivers side top and has a hose with a green cap connected to it.
It has two hoses and an electrical connector.

The hoses have two different locks to hold them in place. Be careful unplugging as the lock on the hose closest to the driver has a white locking tab that can break easily.

Remove the nut below the bracket and the whole bracket comes off. The underside of the bracket has a tab holding the purge valve in place. Bend it slightly to allow the valve to slide off the bracket. Slide the new one on and make sure to bend the tab back the way it was to hold it in place. Install electrical connector and hoses making sure all lock.

Mine was showing check engine light and hard to start after fill up. CEL went away immediately and no starting issues after tonight's fill up.

Here's a link to the one I bought. Verify you're ordering the right part for your car as mine is 2006 Ion 2 2.2 liter. Yours may be different.

ACDelco 214-1680 GM Original Equipment Vapor Canister Purge Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NWA6T0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_959JzbXGDN9EX

Hi Faggatron.

-------------------------------------

Step 1: Order Magnaflow part #11216

http://www.amazon.com/Magnaflow-11216-Satin-Stainless-Muffler/dp/B000CC9C4Q

I would recommend talking to a muffler shop to see if they can order it for you because they can usually get it much cheaper and faster, especially if you tell them all the work you want to get done (for this setup).

---------------------------------------------

Step 2: Tell the muffler shop that you want a muffler delete and your resonator replaced with the magnaflow part you just bought. (#11216)

-------------------------------------------------------

Bonus step: You can change the muffler tips as well to 4inch dual tips so it covers the bumper well and it also makes the car slightly louder. I decided to keep my stock muffler tips for discretion.

-------------------------------------------------------

That should be it. I spent $250 for this work to be done including buying the magnaflow muffler. Just negotiate a deal with them!

https://www.amazon.com/Design-Engineering-010378-Engine-Injecter/dp/B015NOKWQY#customerReviews

That's it, I've only heard good stuff about it. But I would do more research on it as a just in case measure to make sure your money is being spent well.

I have the nameless axleback 4 inch tips and the gap between the tip and the bumper is around 1-1.5 inch with the stock hangers. So i bought the yellow adjustable hangers and now the gap is only like 0.25 inch. Looks much better!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N3VHKCO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Try to loosen the s, mid and front pipe a little, sliding the mufflers on the OG hangers and if you can't get it how you want, try these. Each notch is about 1cm maybe a little more. You can tell mine hangs a bit lower now but from a standing position they look perfect.

All of them will crack eventually. It's just the nature of the design.

I got this manifold back in August and so far I am very happy with it.

Mine don't stick out quite that much

3.5" Staggered double wall. I did by these bushings but I don't know why that would help really.

The first thing you should do is change fluids, then fix the heat soak problem if you have a 4.0 and it hasn't been taken care of. I bought a kit from Amazon that's supposed to be an adequate fix for about 60 bucks which can be found here :

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015NOKWQY/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

After that, I'd focus on the rust problem. There's a good thread here:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/taking-care-of-frame-rust.328/
This is another good resource for questions that you may have:
www.wranglerforum.com

Also, Epstein didn't kill himself.

Installing a new heat shield worked for me when I was having multiple misfires. I was having this issue because of heat soak like a previous commenter said. P303 came back though, so I got a new cylinder head coming this summer.

Try this:
Design Engineering 010378 Engine Fuel Rail and Injecter Cover (Jeep, 4.0L) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015NOKWQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1TedBbG7THY43

I found just the larger heat shield for like $20 on eBay but if you want to go all out there is this one.

The long start on hot 4.0 engines is often caused by a heat soak issue that affects the injectors/fuel rail. There is supposed to be a heat shield on top of the intake manifold that keeps heat of the injectors but it’s flimsy and often gets trashed/torn out during repairs. On some 4.0s there are TSBs issued that also call for the injector to be wrapped in individual shields. They make kits for it. I don’t know about your fuel pump issue, but just something to note regarding hot engine starting issues.
Design Engineering 010378 Fuel Rail and Injector Cover Kit for Jeep (1997-2004, 4.0L Engine) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015NOKWQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XXEwDb1PVADX9

I had the same code and it turned out to be heat soak. The intake manifold sits right above the exhaust manifold, so on very hot days the hotter air in the intake was causing fuel to partially vaporize in the fuel rail before it could get to the injectors. Fuel can't atomize properly which means its not combusting as completely which can trigger P0455 even with the vapor return line is doing its job properly.

Check all your lines, tighten your gas cap, and buy a $20 code reader so you can reset your check engine code(s) yourself. If the code doesn't come back within a day or so then heat soak could be your cause. I bought and installed this kit and that solved my problem for good.

Design Engineering 010378 Engine Fuel Rail and Injecter Cover (Jeep, 4.0L) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015NOKWQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZKl0Bb2F0NPJQ

I don't understand what I'm looking at. What do you mean by "header"? I see the manifold (orange) and it attaches to the engine. What "header" do you mean?

I was thinking about this model because it has the flex joints:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BMZU90I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I went with the Generic 12 hole from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/TOHUU-0280156161-Upgrade-Injector-1999-2004/dp/B07KWWQXL4/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_4?crid=32B7CIJNN1XON&keywords=2000+jeep+cherokee+fuel+injectors+12+hole&qid=1554903065&replacementKeywords=fuel+injectors+12+hole&s=gateway&sprefix=12+Hole+fuel+injectors+%2Caps%2C582&sr=8-4-fkmrnull&vehicle=2000-42-347------------&vehicleName=2000+Jeep+Cherokee

But you can go with any from other Suppliers too. all are about the same quality. Definitely a difference in pickup, but fuel economy depends on driving style. Don't forget to replace the fuel rail shield while you have the fuel rail off. https://www.amazon.com/Design-Engineering-010378-Engine-Injecter/dp/B015NOKWQY/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_3?keywords=2000+jeep+cherokee+fuel+rail+shield&qid=1554903190&replacementKeywords=fuel+rail+shield&s=gateway&sr=8-3-fkmrnull&vehicle=2000-42-347------------&vehicleName=2000+Jeep+Cherokee.

Otherwise, A Cold Air intake with K&N filter and a Throttle body spacer will be some of the first (and least work intensive) performance enhancing things you can do. There is a trade off between pick up power, low end torque and economy that you should watch. A Jeep is not a dragster (not built for it, though the project would be fun) and you don't want the wheels breaking loose when you are on a pile of boulders. Stopping at every gas station you pass is also not a desirable feature....

Have fun!

Design Engineering 010378 Engine Fuel Rail and Injecter Cover (Jeep, 4.0L) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015NOKWQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3frMBbCHHJP47

Oddly my Amazon is showing it as unavailable but that is the way to go, if you still have issues after that then check your fuel pressure at the rail.