(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best crafts & sewing arts

For someone just starting out, quality paper is the most important thing followed by paint and brushes. I recommend shopping online as you'll pay 2-3x more locally (unless you have a Blick store nearby, they usually match their online prices) and you can set your girlfriend up nicely without breaking the bank. I'm not sure what you're looking to spend so I'll try to give you a decent range of options.

Paint

Cotman and Van Gogh are the student versions of professional brands (Winsor Newton & Rembrandt) and the most often suggested for beginners. They come in pans (dried paint blocks you swipe with a wet brush to reactivate) and tubes. Though these are student grade they're both used professionally and very high quality. They're lightfast (won't fade with exposure to sun), use the same pigments that the professional brands do (though with a smaller amount) and are both very reasonably priced. And if she enjoys painting and looks to upgrade in the future, she could pick up the Professional version with minimal relearning how the paint performs (All brands behave a little differently on paper).

Of the two I would suggest Van Gogh as they're extremely vibrant, the pans are very easy to rewet (Cotman pans are difficult to get pigment from in my experience, and for someone learning to paint having to scrub a pan with a brush will be frustrating. The tubes better.) and come in nice compact travel sets that have a built in palette for mixing. The Set of 12 Pans is plenty to start with, you can mix a wide variety of colors from that. The 18 pan + 2 tube set is a great option as well as it gives you a nice variety of warm and cool primaries as well as convenient greens and earth colors, it comes with a small brush and sponge, I'd go with that one. The larger sets of 30-48 aren't necessary as they're mostly colors that are mixed from the single pigment paints included in the smaller sets, but if you think she'd enjoy having a ton of colors available without having to mix those are something you can look at too.

If you wanna ball out a little bit and get her some professional paints, Da Vinci has a ton of pan and tube set options. The 12 Full Pan Set again has everything she'd need getting started. They're as good as any brand out there. The pans are also twice the size of the student brand options and will last a very long time.

There's a ton of great paints out there, I suggest these because they're great value as well as quality and don't include a lot of the weird and rarely used colors you find in a lot of sets. I'd go with pans because they're ready to go as soon as you open them, you don't have to wait for the tube paint to dry for a day or two before you can store it or take it with you, they're very attractive gifts that are nice to look at (if you look on youtube you'll see 100s of videos of people just opening them and showing them off) and you can refill them with your own tube paints later on once you know what you like and start building your own palette. This time of the year there's tons of deals out there so if you find a nice set of Winsor Newton or something on amazon that's a great snag as well. Just avoid "store" brands like Artist's Loft or Masters Touch, or the tons of really cheap chinese sets you'll find online.

Paper

100% Cotton is the way to go. It can handle any technique and can take a ton of water without buckling or falling apart. Even the nicest paint will appear dull on poor watercolor paper and they can't handle much water before they start to give out. It can be a little pricey but it's well worth it. Again there's tons of brands but Arches is the most used and it's excellent so I don't wanna bog you don't with a bunch of brands. You could also grab a 22x30 inch sheet of Arches and tear it into a variety of smaller sheets (this is the most common and frugal way). Cold press is medium textured, Hot Press is smooth and Rough is obvious. Cold press is the most versatile so I'd start there. I don't use sketchbooks but if you're looking for something like that I've heard these are good.

Brushes

Brushes are personal preference, some people only use one for everything and some people like a variety of size and hair types. If you wanna keep it simple a 10 or 12 Round is a good workhorse that can handle small detail and a larger wash. There's sets if you wanna get her a few to see what she likes. Synthetic or a blend is where I'd start as real sable or squirrel is pretty expensive. There's water brushes that aren't "traditional" but are popular for sketching or coloring ink art and are easy to use.

Hope this helps!

A strop is only for honing (the final step to achieving a razor-sharp edge), while a whetstone could be used for anything from shaping the initial bevel to honing, depending on the grit.

If you do buy some Flexcut knives, which I highly recommend, you will probably only need a strop if you properly maintain them. In fact, they recommend you never use a whetstone and only opt for a Powerstrop if you neglect them for too long.

Many sites will recommend you buy tools one by one so you can get what you need, but as another beginner, I was extremely happy I purchased the Flexcut Deluxe Set. It was probably one more knife and one more palm tool than I needed, but it helped me understand what was out there and how to use them. A good, cheaper alternative might be this set.

No matter what you buy, one of the most important things to do from both a safety and usability (and enjoyment!) factor is to keep your tools as sharp as possible. That way it requires less force to move the tool through the wood, which is a common injury mechanism, and it makes it easier to create fun things. For the weird angles with V and gouge tools, I use another Flexcut invention. It works okay, but you can get the same results with folded sandpaper or other methods. I also bought a fullsize knife strop because it really does make a difference and you can get some with a lot more surface area. I haven't needed to buy a whetstone yet.

Also, I've since supplemented my starter set with Dockyard tools, which also come very sharp and keep their edge well. So far I've only used their micro tools, but I understand they have decent sets as well.

Speaking from unfortunate experience, you should definitely pick up a pair of kevlar gloves. I had a pretty serious hand injury (partially severed tendon) because I was just doing some touchups and wasn't using my gloves and got a bit sloppy. It only takes one single wrong stroke, and I had gotten complacent since I'd been so careful in the past. The gloves let me be more reckless and have definitely saved me from cuts, although they wouldn't protect against a stabbing cut. Thumb guards are also popular, but I don't actually like them very much. The gloves are nice because you can get a great grip on the tools.

When you have a knife or a set, you'll need some wood to practice on. I found ebay to be a great resource...just search for "basswood" and pick a few different sizes. 2x2x6 seems to be a good starting point to me. Make sure it is kiln-dried as well. Here is a good assortment that is pretty cheap. Butternut is another good choice, but for a beginner, I'd stick with basswood from personal experience.

Finally, if you are wanting a good book to introduce you to the subject, I'd recommend the Complete Book of Woodcarving. I've bought a number of books on the subject, but it is definitely the best if you are only buying one and need an overview to the entire craft. Old Time Whittling is only 30 pages, but gave some great examples and was very useful to me as well.

Speakers will make your life so much better. I'd recommend getting a shower speaker too, your flatmates will love you.

A door stop is the right answer.

If you get a memory foam mattress topper your life will be so much better. It makes any bed amazing, and, although they aren't particularly cheap, they can last a very long time. I have this one

Get some good quality pens and books of paper. You don't want the refil pads as they always fall apart sooner or later, get some which have metal binding on one side. For pens I always got a box of these or these. They make the vast amounts of notes you need to take much better.

Don't buy the recommended reading until you have checked how many copies the library has. There's a good chance you'll be able to read them enough without paying for them, or search Bookname.pdf into google and it will probably be there.

Pint glasses are very useful things to have, but I found it added a nice touch to my flat if they were all borrowed from pubs.

get a multipack of playing cards on the cheap from amazon. You'll probably get through a fair few packs in first year. Some poker chips were a nice thing to own as well. In 3rd year I got Cards Against humanity as well, and it is a very good game for predrinks

Get minimum 1 good frying pan, 1 good saucepan, a good wooden chopping board, a good chefs knife, a baking sheet, and a colander.

Get a bottle opener like this one and you will have hours of fun pinging the caps at people

I didn't use mine much in 1st year, but all the other years of uni my bike was a great thing to have. It allows you to shop further away (so cheaper) and reduces your reliance on public transport. It also means you can get out of your area of the city occasionally, which is nice.

A french press means you can make a whole pot of great coffee for your flatmates when you are all getting up after a heavy night, at which point they might crown you or start worshiping you or some shit

Hey! I was in a similar situation a few months ago with around a $200 budget as well. Here's what I got:

Airbrush: Iwata Revolution - It's a great airbrush and is almost always on sale on Amazon for under $100. It's easy to use, easy to clean, and is solvent safe, meaning you can spray more than just acrylics.

Compressor: Master Airbrush - I wanted something with a tank on it because I didn't want it to run the entire time, and this one fit the bill. It's super quiet (I can even run it at night), and it comes with a moisture trap, which is super important. It also comes with a hose!

That brings everything to about $200, so there's not much wiggle room to fit other stuff in if you draw a hard line on your budget, but definitely consider:

Spray Booth: Master Airbrush- This thing is amazing. I love it. It's compact and super easy to use. It folds up super tidy and even has a button to retract the cord.

Cleaner: Iwata-Medea Airbrush Cleaner - comes in different sizes, but it's been wonderful when cleaning out my brush between paints or when I need to do my monthly field-strip.

Thinner, Retarder, and Flow Improver: Vallejo products!- I love the Vallejo Auxillaries. They're easy to use, pretty cheap, and widely available depending where you live.

First off WELCOME TO THE TIME/MONEY BLACKHOLE !!
As a fellow Tau player I just have to correct something, they arent robots. Theres little fish face alien fuckers in those suits.
Yes they are fantastically awesome !
If you hit your local shop on weekends you will very likely find people who will be incredibly nice to you and will be very happy to help you learn to paint. This is usually a great bunch of fanboys and we love talking to newbies :) My son will talk for hours on how awesome orks are and his buddie will tell me how amazing Chaos is. I play Tau, Space Marines, Eldar & Necrons. oh i'm 47 so the habit will last your lifetime.
As for what equipment, I suggest an exacto knife for removing tiny bits of plastic. A task light with a magnifying glass is awesome. A good set of brushes & an Army painter kit. Links are below. Paint scheme... dude they are all awesome. What do YOU want ? Dont go crazy at first. start simple, 3 colors and basic bases. As you get better you can add details. Please post photos of your progress and never be afraid to ask questions
For the greater good !

Light - https://www.amazon.com/Spectrum-Daylight-Magnifier-3-Diopter-VS01222B/dp/B00DJG9DFA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1493865330&sr=8-2&keywords=task+light+magnifier

Paint - https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Warpaints-Mega-Paint/dp/B01MTXRUUT/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493865371&sr=8-1&keywords=army+painter+set

Brushes - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M7UFLP5/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'd check out a TWSBI Eco. Very nice pens for about 30 euros. Order it in a fine or extra fine nib.

And yeah, you can have some problems. Bleedthrough is an issue that can be solved by using a well behaved ink. Noodler's Black or X-Feather are good inks for preventing this. Using better paper is a good solution, too, but that's more expensive. Black n Red notebooks are pretty cheap and work well. In my experience, TOPS notebooks work super well with fountain pens and are dirt cheap.

A finer nib will be slightly more feedbacky (but it shouldn't be scratchy - it shouldn't feel like it's digging into the paper). If it feels like it's digging into the paper while writing, something's wrong. Try writing figure eights, and if it feels more scratchy in one direction than another, then the tines are probably out of alignment. This is a very very easy fix. All you need to fix it is some sort of magnifier (I find that a 30x/60x jeweler's loupe from Amazon is the best tool to get a good look at the tip of your nib. If you can't afford the ten buck to get one, that's fine, use a magnifying glass or whatever you can get your hands on. Even zoom on a camera would work. If you don't have ANY of that, you can even just do trial and error.

Basically, see if the two metal tines (the two sides of the nib) are misaligned at the tip, and if one is longer than the other. A head-on view and an above view work well for this. If they're misaligned, it's an easy fix and I'll tell you how to do it. If one is too long.... that's more complicated and if that's the case, I'll tell you how to fix it then.

So: To fix misaligned tines, basically just press the one that's too low up with your thumbnail. Don't push hard, just until you feel what feels like a little bit more resistance than you'd use while writing, and then let go. Keep doing this, and check through the magnifier to see if it's aligned yet. If it is, then go ahead and try writing with it and see if it's better. If it's not aligned or not better, keep trying.

Hope this helps, ask me any questions you want! Have a great day!

I've got some ideas. What exactly do you need a laminator for? And are you in a decent sized city?

The Pixma Pro-100 handles cardstock perfectly. It's not going to be the most amazing print quality on most cardstocks. You need special inkjet paper which tends to be expensive. But I find it is more than adequate for my purposes using regular cardstock. I got mine on sale + a big mail in rebate that came with a Visa cash card. Overall I paid about $130 for it which is pretty good imo. I print on both sides of some real thick cardstock and then just cut them out with the paper cutter I'm going to link below. The other good thing about the printer is it handles larger paper sizes. I have 13x19 inkjet paper that it takes and the prints come out incredibly good. And that's a pretty decent size for printing the stuff I'm going to attach to chipboard.

(If you go the Pixma route, I suggest looking at some bulk inks. It has reduced my costs significantly)

I use this for a paper cutter. Works fine. You might do well to find a way to shine a light from underneath the swing arm to line up cuts but it's plenty good enough without it.

I use this corner rounder. I've done thousands of cards with it. Still good. I think if I had to buy it again though I'd look for something that was more like a traditional hole punch in using your whole hand. The one I linked gets your fingers sore after a while.

The reason I asked about where you live is because if you live in a good sized city, you may have access to fab labs. My public library has one with a laser cutter. It makes making tokens a breeze. And because it's at the library for me, it's freeeeeeee. Print on some label paper. Slap the fronts and backs onto a sheet of chipboard. Stick it in the laser cutter and voila, perfect tokens. They'll come out slightly singed but overall they're great.

How much are you going to print and play?

If it's not a lot, I would say just skip the printer. It's $130 at its cheapest and that's not even counting the cost of replacing the ink. If you're only going to print a few games and they're not that intense, just go to a local printshop and use their high quality business laser printers. They print super sharp into label paper and card stocks. Print the fronts on one, the backs on the other, stick em together, cut it out with the paper cutter. It's a bit of work but the finished product looks great.

I'm probably too late, but some ideas!

The mug is a cute idea, I love these "Surprise Mugs"

We don't know which country you or she is from, but it might be nice to get hers something small from her country (or something from your country that's super distinct if she's very excited about living there).

For instance, if she is from Germany, you could get her some Hanuta -- I know when I moved away from home, it was very comforting to get reminders from there.

Or if she's from Belgium, Stroopwafels might be nice to go with tea! Just something small that represents her home.

As for relaxation items (which seems to me to be one of your best options seeing as your ultimate goal is to help her relax, right?), I have a few:

Gong for her desk at work?

A zen "Desktop Garden?"

A Buddha Board for work?

A little desktop fountain?

A diffuser for at home (SUPER relaxing, but you'd also need essential oils)?

Or even a necklace diffuser?

I'm not a veteran by any means in terms of Airbrushing (I've airbrushed 2 kits... a MG Strike Freedom & a MG Nu)

For both of them I went with a very cheap set-up...

For the Airbrush I used a Iwata Neo Gravity which I bought at Hobby Lobby for about $45 w/ their 40% off Coupon :P and it was a great starter airbrush, to me it was straight to the point and definitely something I'd recommend.

As far as my compressor goes, I went with Master Compressor. Reason being is it had a Hose, Water Trap & the Compressor. It works great and I still use it and I like it.

I didn't have a Spray Booth and went with spraying in a damn tub I bought at Walmart for $3 lol and didn't even have a mask...

I highly recommend getting one as it definitely helps out.

I recently bought one and I now use the MSA Safety Works Mask. I started painting my 3rd Airbrushed Kit (about 3 pieces primered lol) and this mask is a god send. I was killing myself before and don't suggest you do the same.

With a Airbrush & the Compressor Set that I linked you should be good to go all you really need is paint which I bought all of mine at the time from Hobby Town USA since they carry Tamiya Paints which are very user friendly and I thinned it 1:1 with 91% Isoprophyl Alcohol from Walmart.

I was in the very same position as you lol, I built about 9 kits before starting a Airbrushed model.

I recently purchased another Airbrush, I got the Master G23 and I've only used Primer on it but it's pretty good, the action isn't as great as my Neo but it's nice enough since I'm no pro and I feel it matches my skill level.

If you have any other questions I can help you as much as I can.

COPYING MY RESPONSE FROM A OLD POST!

I have used the Master Airbrush to paint my Hi-Nu Bust(Scroll down for it) and my MG Unicorn.

Both came out pretty well and to be honest I don't suggest you start with a Airbrush that is expensive... I've done some decent work on my stuff using the Iwata Neo & the Master which both we're under $50... Decent enough to place in contests.

JUST READ FOR THE COMPRESSOR, I STRAIGHT JUST COPY PASTED THIS FROM MY OLD COMMENT.

Also godamn, a Sotar 2020 to start with is really nice and might be excessive but jesus it's nice lol.

Sling is just thick cotton grosgrain ribbon, QD Attatchments can be found all over the place, and so can the strap adjustment buckle, all for super cheap.

>The stitching on the strap is a little difficult, but other than that...

Nah man, not at all. The real item obviously uses a machine, however you can achieve similar results with some scrap leather (Buy "Vegetable Tanned" leather for crafting, takes dye well and is very strong, you may even find a "Belt Blank" kit already cut into a nice neat strap) and some "leather lacing chisels" also known as Pricking Irons. Simply lay out where you want your stitch-box, double your leather over, line up the fork, smack it with a hammer (into a wooden backstop), and there you have it, nice evenly spaced stitchable holes. From there, you just dye the leather however you prefer (Leather Dye works great, but in a pinch, wood stain works fine and double-brewed coffee can work too), finish the edge with a little bees wax and an edge slicker and hand sew it together with some Waxed Thread and some robust Leathercraft Needles. (I might even lay down a layer of contact adhesive between the leather-strap-leather sandwich for additional hold while sewing). Just take your time and be patient with layout and cutting and it would make for a great afternoon project. For a tutorial on stitching leather neatly, check this out and this edge slicking tutorial. Bonus; you can dye the leather and buy whatever color grosgrain and hardware you want to match or contrast to your heart's content.

Everyone else's advice is great, but once you're ready to move in to pens, I suggest a liner pen set like https://www.amazon.com/Staedtler-Pigment-Sketch-Regular-308SB6P/dp/B004L87XRA < this, if you can get it (~$11 USD; online and in art stores. Sakura's Pigma Micron pens are also good but a little less sturdy and pigmented in my experience). They're of different widths so you can explore line width (this piece looks to me like one width though), and they come in a sturdy case. Like all pens, be gentle on the tips, and they'll last a long time.

And besides lessons online, try thinking of your own drawing challenges. Once you learn how to put shapes together and show what you see on paper, it's a lot more fun to draw things you want to draw.

Best of luck and keep posting your progress!

Everyone touts the W&N line and natural hair brushes but I've been having no problems with my synthetic brushes. You dont need to pay an arm and a leg for brushes if you dont need to, if you are looking for a decent set here is one on amazon for 26 bucks that has a great selection of sizes. Heck a lot of the reviews for this specific set came from warhammer painters. Here is a set with a few more brushes and costs less, reviews seem good too.

You can save up over time for W&N if you want, look up basic brush maintenance and keep your brushes in good shape and you will rarely have issues. In the end the best brushes are the ones that have good quality while being comfortable to use. W&N is just really good quality hair, but I dont find them comfortable to use so it didn't matter.

I paint on my primer due to living in a complex that doesnt allow aerosol paints on site, so I can really help much there, sorry.

Happy painting.

I highly encourage learning to cross stitch! It's so so easy and has been the most therapeutic thing for me. And there are literally endless options of things to create. I started a year ago after putting the stuff on an amazon wish list and got it for Christmas last year and it's seriously the best thing I've ever done. I had absolutely no interests or hobbies that stuck with me until I tried this.

It's also a very inexpensive hobby. Here are the things I put on my Amazon list, just for reference if you or anyone else needed it:

Set of 4 different sized wooden hoops- $11.99 Plastic ones may be easier for some people, I prefer wooden because they're more my style for framing.

Aida 14ct Cloth 12x18- $3.55 14ct Aida is easiest to work with for beginners. The size of this is good for practicing on, get a couple so you can use the other for your first project. You can also purchase large rolls of it when you start becoming obsessed with it. They also come in lots of different colors and easy to dye yourself.

Set of 150 different colored skeins of DMC floss- $15.98 This is a great amount to start off with. It'll last you a long time, and if you ever need more or want new colors, they are very inexpensive from any craft store and Walmart. Usually around $0.25-$0.50. FYI floss splits apart into 6 tiny strings. Start off using only 2-3 strands
Do all 6 and you're gonna have a bad time.

Needles!- $3.49 Can't stitch without needles!

Bobbins and a thread organizer- $6.49 You will need this. I waited too long to get one and ended up have to wind up hundreds of tangled skeins and it took HOURS. Do it before you start practicing. Also write the thread color number on the top of each bobbin with permanent marker. When you use patterns they will be based off the color numbers.

Julie Jackson's subversive cross stitch book- $12.99 If you like those snarky offensive cross stitchings, this is the best book for it. It's also an amazing beginners guide into cross stitching. It has brief instructions on how to start and very simple but adorably offensive patterns. You can also get other books or use YouTube to find instructions on how to get started. I'd also like to suggest going to etsy for patterns. They're pretty cheap and there's endless options.

So about $55 to get started plus shipping, but it'll last you a long time and could be used on many different projects and you won't spend nearly as much when you do need something else.


I realized I over did it with this post but I'm passionate about cross stitching as it's helped me so much to slow my mind down and to have something good and fun to focus on that doesn't take much out of me. If you want to see some of mine, they're floating around in my post history.

I just went through this myself and am very happy with my purchases. This is a complete entry level set with the tools you will need to maintain it. Assuming you're US based, you could have everything Monday with Prime shipping.

• Airbrush - $27 - This is a basic brush with the ability to change between 0.2, 0.3(most common), and 0.5mm tips. This gives you the flexibility to go from precise to blanket applications.
  
  
• Compressor - $120 - I opted for a model with a tank to help regulate the air output. The compressor still ends up running most of the time during extended applications so I'm not sure how much it helps but I didn't want to take chances. You could save ~$40 by getting a model without a tank. You could always add a tank later if you feel the need.
  
  
• Cleaner - $12 - You need this before you even think about starting. One cleaner seems about as good as another so pick whatever.
  
  
• Tools - $7 - You will need to clean paint from the internals. Some of these brushes will work for that. There seems to be differing opinions in the community over how useful these are but I opted for them and use them every so often.
  
  
• Cleaning Pot - $15 - You will need one for your station and everyone uses this one. Definitely spray the cleaner through into this.
  
  
• Wash Bottle - $6 - 500 mL bottle you fill with water. This will allow you to rinse the pot at your station without having to go to a sink (though you still might use one often). Get a bucket or tupperware container to rinse into.
  
  This will allow you to setup a bare-bones station. You could also get a fume hood or just spray into a box in a well ventilated room. Get a good white led light (if you don't have on already) to illuminate your workspace and you're good to go.

If you can afford one and plan to paint a lot, I'd recommend an airbrush. Especially if you want to seriously get into it. It will give you better results and let you do stuff that you can't with spray cans.

> sometimes the paints seem expensive

Most airbrush paints aren't particularly expensive imo., and they last longer than it might look, with even a small bottle being enough for multiple (smaller) kits. They are also cheaper than cans in the long run.

> I am intimidated by the concept of using a machine, and complicated processes

Airbrushes are pretty simple machines. All you really need to do is turn on a compressor and then use the trigger to spray paint. The most complicated thing is cleaning the airbrush, but even that's pretty simple and there's a lot of guides online describing how to do it.

Thinning the paint and setting the correct PSI takes a bit of practice but isn't that big of a deal deal after a couple of kits.

> Does an airbrush cost less money than sprays

In the long run, an airbrush is probably cheaper. Looking up prices at a local online store, Tamiya spray cans run around 10€, while airbrush paints are around 3€. An added benefit of an airbrush is that there's less overspray, so you're wasting less paint.

> hat does purchasing an airbrush include? Would I have to build a setup?

You'll need a compressor, an airbrush and a hose that fits both. Optionally, a cleaning pot is really handy, as is something to clean the airbrush with (Vallejo airbrush cleaner or lacquer thinner are two popular options). There's sets on amazon that include a decent compressor + a cheap chinese airbrush (one random example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KSQHB6/) or you can buy them separately.

> Are there better primers/ topcoats available in airbrush paints as compared to spray?

There's good topcoats and primers in both spray can and airbrush paint form (Mr. surfacer is a great primer available in both forms, as an example). The only big thing that comes to mid that isn't available in can form is Badger stynylrez - a good acrylic primer which is handy if you want to avoid the fumes that come with spraying lacquer paint.

watercolors LINK

we starting to use it in art schools and continue to use them in art academy. they really are good. no need to dig deeper in more expensive, pro watercolors.

fancy watercolors (i personally love them, but really, basically fo fun, mixed media) LINK

watercolor pad LINK

that's my choice. would highly recommend this producer, really great absorption, thick paper, different formats available. anyway, it's really good.

brushes is really very personal choice, depends on technic and such. I like this one LINK great for miniature work. You can look for some squirrel hair brushes in local store orLINK , they are good for starters and for wet painting.

EDIT. fanart sample where all those stuff used at once :P

https://www.amazon.com/Airbrush-Cleaning-STARVAST-Cleaner-Station/dp/B0794SX16Y/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1526263410&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=airbrush+cleaner&psc=1

This is a must have if you want to airbrush - I have the same kit and the key is to always clean after every session or between colors - I usually run thinner, then windshield washer fluid (or windex original - with ammonia), and water (repeat until the airbrush spews clear) - no need to buy specific airbrush cleaner solutions

If your compressor doesn't turn on when you plug it in, you need to increase the pressure (lift and twist the black knob and turn towards the plus sign - 25-30psi will be fine)

A lot of people use Citadel but I'm more used to Tamiya but the concept is the same - thin paints (in general 1:1 paint:thinner) prior to airbrushing

I would stick to the dual-action guns over the single-action in that kit since the former has more utility and control - I haven't found a use for single-action yet but I'm sure there is - all you need to know is pushing down the trigger controls air flow while pulling up on the trigger controls how much paint comes out - practice on paper first

I've heard that using windex is a great alternative to using thinner for acrylic paints but I haven't tried yet - if so, then it's a great money saver

I would also look into a airbrush booth if you plan to paint indoors to collect the fumes - I have the generic portable one and it works great (https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Portable-Painting-T-shirts/dp/B00BMUH8L6/ref=pd_sbs_201_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00BMUH8L6&pd_rd_r=36F6CYT7WNA7Q9Y4AVS9&pd_rd_w=18wRl&pd_rd_wg=V3l93&psc=1&refRID=36F6CYT7WNA7Q9Y4AVS9)

r/modelmakers has a great post on airbrushing if you need further help including how to and maintenance

"Natural Talent" is a lie. It doesn't exist. Anyone anywhere who is any good at anything, is so because they worked hard and practiced for a long time.

The kid's 9 years old, anything that he tries to do, he is going to get frustrated. All you can do for now is encourage him, and help him learn to derive fun from the process of art-making, rather than worrying about the result. Getting hung up on particular techniques and styles at this early on is, I think, counter-productive. All it will do is serve to highlight the disparity with his current skill level and that of others around him, which is discouraging. Get involved with him in the process, draw with him. Are you no good at drawing? Great! Have fun drawing with him, and show him that making a perfect drawing isn't the most important thing. And maybe you can begin learning and developing as artists together.

One thing that can help make the process more exciting is new tools. Is he drawing mostly with crayons and markers? Get him some (cheap, nontoxic, water-soluble) paints or pastels. Make collages out of ripping construction paper. get him a Buddha Board, or just some sidewalk chalk. Experimenting with different mediums will help get him engaged in the process of making art, and not worry about the final product.

Buy the cheapest, thickest sketchbook you can, (in the UK, I'd hit up The Works)and some pens, ballpoint maybe, preferably fineliners, like these bad boys, then fill it up.


There are tons of resources available.

Some tips I have picked up:

Start with perspective, simple one-point perspective and a bunch of boxes ( try this place ), and just fill sketchbooks up.

Split your drawing time into practice and personal, still draw stuff you love, but make time to just practice. Noone else will see the results, it's just for you to learn how things look.

Use reference, not tracing if you can avoid it, as much as you can. Learn what things actually look like, how bits of the body fit together and work. Draw what you see, not how you think things look.

Try and find others who are learning too and learn together, even just posting stuff online for advice.

*From the last one, try and see advice as positive, noone is perfect and (other then the occasional twat), use what they have said to get better :)


Sorry for the wall of random stuff, I'm still early in my journey too and these are the tips I keep hearing again and again. Good luck!! Can't wait to see what you come up with in the future.

I’m new as well but I’ve done lots (maybe too much) research. What is your budget? From what I understand Windsor & Newton Cotman paints are a good student/hobby grade paint. They sell them in nifty little 12 pan kits that pretty much provide all the colors you need to make good mixes.

Here is a travel set for about $13:
Winsor & Newton Cotman Water Colour Sketchers Pocket Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004THXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qq8Tzb8SY82G3

If you are willing to spend a little more on paint for artist grade I hear excellent things about these: St Petersburg White Nights Watercolour : NEW 12 Pan Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006FHNE3C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Gt8TzbT5PD01H

I’ve seen these really cool portable brushes: High-end art travel painting brush Synthetic Sable Round Hair Short Handle Brush for Acrylic Oil and watercolor painting 3Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M3VMDED/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5r8TzbVV97JR3

Or you can use a water brush: Pentel Arts Aquash Water Brush Assorted Tips, Pack of 3 (FRHBFMBP3) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AX31TZO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Os8TzbN7TW9AQ

As for Paper, I really want one of these myself: Moleskine Watercolor Album Sketchbook - 5"x8" (Spanish Edition) https://www.amazon.com/dp/8883705629/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vz8TzbWWMHY1M


I hope this helps! :)

Gotcha, in that case, here's a few well worth adding to any collection if it's not too late:

Bic Soft Feel Medium Easy to control when pushing softly, reliable ink flow. Great for light lines and construction. The tip does displace by about a mm when you press hard, so it makes dark lines more difficult to reliably create.


Zebra Z-Grip Max Harder to control for lighter lines as the ink flows a little too well. The tip has no displacement though, which means darker lines are much easier to create reliably compared to the bic.


Zebra Z-Grip Flight aka Z-Grip Smooth in the UK. Similar to the Max, no nib displacement, but the ink flows so freely, this is not something to be used for light construction. Very smooth if you like that sort of thing.

The cheap crystal and disposable ballpoints you find all around are OK, but the ink flow is unreliable. On rough paper, they generally have stable nibs and can produce almost pencil-like lines, but they stop and start working so often, it can be annoying.


Non-Ballpoint honorable mentions:

Pilot Hi-Tec C 0.3 - Free flowing hybrid pen. No variation in line-weight, and no going back. Unforgiving but fun when you're searching for ideas and not caring about the final quality.


Pilot G-Tec C4 0.4 - As above, but the 0.1mm difference is significant. Usually used to add line weight to sketches done in the 0.3.


Staedler Pigment Liners - Unfortunately mistaken to be 'markers' because people keep calling them that. Smooth and reliable ink flow with the hard nib. Much thicker and less scratchy than the Hi-Tecs, and far less forgiving. Worth getting a whole set as preferences will vary and the size difference between each is significant. Restrictive as they don't work well at shallow angles, but on the plus side, you can marker over them.

Most importantly, if you're going to be drawing using ballpoints, make sure to accompany it with toothy/rough paper. The paper is 80% of it imo. Smooth stuff just doesn't cut it with ballpoints if you want a consistently high level of control over line weights.

There are lots more of course, but these are my experiences so far.

Good luck!

If you want an inexpensive laminator, I bought this one from amazon (http://amzn.to/2kxWSdz). It was around $22. It does one page at a time and seems to do a fine job. I only have experience with this one laminator, but for taking paper things and covering them with plastic it seems to work pretty well. It only comes with 5 pages of lamination material, so you will need to pick up a pack of the lamination pages. A pack of 100 of the "laminating pouches" cost around $12 on amazon. "Pouches" is kind of a misnomer. They open kind of like a clamshell (connected on one edge, the other three sides open). You slide whatever you want to laminate inside, then slide it through the machine. It was a little difficult getting the hang of laminating a bunch of small pieces on one sheet. The trick I used was to put a book in front of the laminator that was even with the level of the input slot, that way you could just gently slide the page forward without moving the little pieces around inside. My first few attempts were done just holding it by hand and feeding it in and I ended up having pieces move and overlap and get laminated overlapping each other.

I would also recommend a corner cutter (like this: http://amzn.to/2k64w1u). When I was cutting out laminated cards/pieces, I ended up with pointy corners. It wasn't a big deal, but being able to round out the corners makes things just feel better to handle.

The whole setup cost about $45 from amazon for laminator, 100 pages (of which I still have plenty left) and the corner cutter.

After buying a laminator, I ended up discovering all kinds of things that I didn't realize needed lamination. :)

Assuming your microns are the fine liner type and not the brush pens, you should get on the brush pen train!

This one is really nice and popular.

This one is nice too and would be more like what you're used to with the microns, but with a softer tip so you can vary the line weight easily.

I could be wrong, but i'm pretty sure both of these are waterproof. Playing with water soluble ink and a water brush is a lot of fun too and doesn't require much to try out. Something like this (but try to find just one for cheap.. you don't need a bunch) plus random non-waterproof pens you probably have around the house and you're good to go.

I bought the Master Deluxe Airbrush kit on Amazon (likely the one you saw), and everything /u/BigBraddWolfe said has been my exact experience.

I originally got mine for Gundam model kits, though the brush works fantastically for priming and base-coating miniatures as well. I would definitely recommend the Deluxe over the cheaper version, because the "extras" make all the difference.

The tank allows you a fair bit of continuous spray before the motor kicks in, and pretty much ensures you don't get any rattling or crazy pressure differences. It fills back up pretty quickly, so you won't spend more than a few seconds waiting on it if you choose to wait it out vs. continuing to spray. I'm pretty sure that the extra needles of various sizes, quick-disconnect, fancy hose, and moisture trap are a savings in this bundle when compared to upgrading an existing compressor. In any case, it's doubtful that I'll have to get another compressor in the future assuming this one continues to hold up. It does everything I could ask of it, in about the best way any compressor is going to. It gives me air steadily and for a long time, pressurized to a level I determine, keeps moisture out, and allows me to quickly connect and disconnect the brush.

That last point turns out to be quite the life-saver for the brush itself. It works fine, sprays well, and can go wider or tighter with the included needles. Where this thing may have a little more upkeep vs. an Iwata is in the clean-up between colors. I find myself breaking it down to clean the needle guard and do a "deep cleaning" just about every time I change colors. It just doesn't satisfy me to wash a bunch of cleaner through it and hope for the best. I would imagine an Iwata will create less buildup on the needle and in the guard, allowing you to clean it out a bit quicker. For me, it's not too much of a hassle because I just need to rinse the cup, slide the needle out, give it a wipe, remove and clean the guard, then stick everything back together. With the quick-disconnect I don't have to worry about my compressor's pressure, or the line, or any of that. I pop the brush off, do the quick cleaning, and it's all but spotless a minute later when I pop it back on and go back to spraying.

Even if you have no intention of using the included brush, you're probably still getting a decent compressor fully decked out at a steal. If you want to go and drop the remaining budget on a neo, by all means do so and you'll have a fantastic setup for airbrushing dolls and whatever other large surfaces you want to repaint. If you grab another quick-connect fitting (it seems like most of the hose fittings for compressors are standardized by one of a few manufacturers), then you could switch between them at will for different jobs. Use the basic Master one for priming or whatever rough jobs you need to crank out, and break out the neo for finer detail work.

Thoughts on the first Neo kit I found: it looks like the brush is better but I can't speak definitively on the compressor's workings. It may be quieter than mine, or it could be louder. It looks like the three settings on it are all you get, while I have a little gauge on mine to set my PSI to whatever I want (I typically use 20-25). It may seem like a small thing, but I think it's kind of nice that it has a little holder on it. It's a kind of profound terror to pick up the airbrush, fill it with paint, and realize you have nowhere to put it down when you suddenly need two hands again.

Get the 40% or more off coupon code at Michaels, you can use your phone. See if you can get 40% off all, instead of just one item. Otherwise bring a friend and use it on the expensive items.

• 15$ to 30$ - Paints like Winsor & Newton or Reeves or Prima I would avoid Artist Loft's paint as I have no experiance but other Michaels stuff is hit or miss. I think cakes is easiest to start with.
  
• 2$ - Palette or something to mix on. Dollar Store is probably good enough, otherwise like 5$.
  
• 20$ Paper - Canson or Strathmore make good tear off sheets. Make sure it says watercolour. A pad of paper is easier to start with then a bound sketchbook. These are usually on a buy two get one free type sale.
  
• 15$ - A brush set or Waterbrush if she travels with it (if you get this get it on amazon its overpriced in store) aim for something soft and labelled student or professioinal. Basically not Crayola.
  
• EDIT a WATERPROOF Sharpie.
  
  Depending on sales you can probably get everything for 50$. You might be able to get under 40$ but it'll be damn hard. The drawing pencils and kneaded erasers are cheapest at an art store where they will be sold loose for a few dollars, however with Christmas coming up also keep an eye out for sketching sets as they will use a like 5.99$ one to get all the art students back in stores and tempt them with other things

Heya! Thanks for stopping by.

It can be a bit tricky, depending on what materials and tools he has already.

• Amazon Shows a wide variety of books.
  
  If he wants more whittling-style knives, Amazon is also a place for this.
  
  
• This knife set isn't too bad. See, what you're wanting to look for here are knives that are comfortable to use. The curves and ovaloid shaped handles make them more comfortable for longer periods of whittling.
  
  
• Quite a few people swear by Mora knives.
  
  If he's the outdoorsy type, then any nice range pocket knife will work (as long as it looks / feels comfortable to hold!). The spirit of Whittling is in the doing, not so much in the materials used.
  
  Other accessories that could go well could be safety gloves (no one wants to cut themselves !), A place for him to store wood, or even a bench perhaps.
  
  Really, it's up to what he already has and his wants. Hope this helps!
  

Looks pretty good. Always come in at least 3/16 of an inch from edge for stitching. Get yourself a stitching groover too. It cuts a groove in the leather both to help heep stitches straight, and so your thread doesn't sit proud if the leather. Especially for an item that will be in and out of your pocket. Get a set of diamond stitching chisels too to help you with spacing, and clean up your stitches. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014549SNG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1.CJDb1VV85PN
Other than that. I would personally do this with a thicker veg tan leather, obviously you have what you have. But thicker veg tan allows you to better finish the edges of the leather and use an edge coat to both make it pop, and to protect the edge of the leather which is what will surely start to wear first on this item. You dun good, though, just need to practice!

Legion is my first miniature game as well! A buddy of mine recommended a army painter set when I first started. To be honest they are not that great and a couple of the brushes have fallen apart. I have been eyeing these brushes on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Miniature-Brushes-Detailing-Painting-Watercolor/dp/B01M7UFLP5/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=18KR6TIBSRBKI&keywords=miniature+brushes&qid=1550092873&s=gateway&sprefix=miniature+bru%2Caps%2C127&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

they seem like a nice set! Those vallejo paints will work perfectly, I have a few of them and I really like their product. Citadel paints (in my opinion) are top tier paint quality wise. If you dont want to shell out the "Citadel Tax" for them, vallejo is an awesome product for the price.

A few days late here, so for all I know you've already purchased, but I have one called the "Sunstar Kadomaru Pro, Corner Cutter (#S4765036)" and I really love it. It does three different corner sizes, so you can experiment with an index card or something and see which angle works best. I got it from Amazon here:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0076FJ7SS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've trimmed the borders off a number of decks, and this guy always makes my corners look great. (I wish the same could be said for my edges -- I'm still working on doing those cuts as evenly as I'd like...but hey, at least my corners always look good...)

Airbrush Booth - You really shouldn't breath in the fumes. If you are painting indoors, you should use something like this to capture and filter the overspray/fumes. This is in addition to wearing a mask. You will see people in youtube tutorials not wearing masks and not using a booth - it's really bad practice if you care about your brain cells. I like the one below, but the fan is louder than the compressor.

80$ on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush®-Portable-Airbrush-Painting/dp/B00BMUH8L6?ie=UTF8&ref_=pe_385040_128020140_TE_3p_dp_1

$20- Paint mask/respirator - See notes above. I use one designed for spray painting.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-07192-Paint-Spray-Medium/dp/B0002STR22/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469825823&sr=8-1&keywords=Spray+paint+mask

Airbrush - I recommend starting cheap until you get a hang of it. It's easy to damage parts. It's been a while since I've researched, so I apologize for having forgotten the terms. You want an airbrush that is fed from a cup on top (gravity fed?), a trigger to control the air separately from the paint (maybe called dual action?), and needles .2 to .5mm. This airbrush came with a quick connect (to snap on and off of the compressor hose), which is a big convenience. They are cheap if you need to buy separately.
$30 https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Precision-Airbrush-Valve-Crenelated/dp/B004KNDQMM?ie=UTF8&ref_=pe_385040_128020140_TE_3p_dp_1

$10Airbrush cleaner fluid and brushes - to flush the airbrush and clean it after use.

$10- Airbrush cleaning pot - You spray cleaner and excess paint into this.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005H46T0O/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

90$ - Compressor with Tank - The separate tank is key, it will maintain constant pressure very well and provide good steady flow. This one is pretty quiet as compressors go, but still noisy enough that you need to work behind a closed door.
https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Portable-Airbrush-Compressor-Oil-less/dp/B004KNDQCM?ie=UTF8&ref_=pe_385040_128020140_TE_3p_dp_2

$10 - Airbrush hose- https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Airbrush-Braided-Air-Hose/dp/B004KNAH7E?ie=UTF8&ref_=pe_385040_128020140_TE_3p_dp_5

All in, it cost me $250 before paint.

I recently bought a setup about a month ago so if you are in the US, I'd recommend the following:

• 1/5 hp Portable Airbrush Compressor with Tank $89.99
  
• 10'ft braided airbrush hose, 1/8" bsp aka Iwata $5.99
  
• Point Zero Dual Action Gravity Feed Airbrush with 0.2, 0.3, 0.5mm nozzle-needle sets and 1/8" bsp quick disconnect $23.99
  
• 20% discount for buying over $100 from this Amazon vendor
  
• Safety is very important! Portable Spray Booth $79.99 w/ Prime, not eligible for above discounts
  
• Comes out to about $175.96 before tax.
  
  I have the compressor, the hose, and the booth and they've worked great for me so far. Honestly, you save on shipping vs. the Master Brand and mine came preassembled with the regulator installed. The Master Brand ones are notorious for having regulators that you screw in and they end up tilted to the side. In fact I think people in this sub have pointed this flaw out (there's a better link with pictures, I just can't find it). Items were shipped promptly and got here in one piece. You also get the discounts if you buy a certain amount from them.
  
  I actually have an Iwata NEO that I got from Amazon for about $40ish. I'm still on the fence as to whether or not I like airbrushing or not. Honestly, I wish I had gotten the PointZero brush just as a cheap intro dual-action brush.
  
  I think someone on this subreddit once pointed out that an airbrush is like a regular brush, just powered by air. They weren't kidding. It takes time to master. If you have the money to spend on a fancy >$100 airbrush like the Krome, then less of your time will be spent trying to master the idiosyncrasies of your brush. But it doesn't change the fact that it takes practice to be able to lay down really smooth, thin coats consistently.
  
  I don't know how busy you are as a student, but it can be time consuming to set everything up, test your spray conditions, mix your paints, actually paint, and then clean everything up. If you find you like the process, then you can invest in a better brush in the future and keep your old one for laying down primer or base coating.
  
  But there's nothing wrong with OOB snap builds if you find that's your thing.
  
  edit: for link formatting mistakes, and also to say that I'm not very experienced yet, so take my advice with a grain of salt.
  
  edit 2: My other regret is not considering compressed CO2. I live near a welding supply shop and a restaurant supply shop that both sell compressed CO2 cylinders. A 10 lb tank with high pressure regulator would have been around $120 and then some for converters or extra regulators. People on the fine scale forums claim that a 10 lb tank could last months for airbrushing and it's only $17 to refill at either shop. Would have been perfect too for carbonating beverages for homebrew purposes. Just another option to consider. Definitely do not buy the Badger compressed air cans. They don't last long enough.

You know what, that's actually a good map! It's pretty clear and represents a good start.

/r/mapmaking is a good place to look around, and there's even helpful threads popping up all the time. If you decide to get more serious about making maps, I'd recommend a Wacom tablet for drawing on a computer. You can use free tools like GIMP or Krita. Of course you can use a mouse with these, but pen & tablet is easier.

If sticking to regular paper, get something like these. Good pens of different thicknesses. If you can express terrain using only "textures" in black & white (here is an example I found on /r/mapmaking), you can really make it pop once you start adding color!

Biggest tip is to just keep at it. And don't be afraid to re-do things over and over to try out different styles.

Does she use just one pen thickness? She might like something like this which has different thicknesses for more detailed drawings.

You said she had graded pencils, maybe she would like graded pens too? (I haven't used these yet, so not sure on the quality)

Has she ever used a brush pen? I found them very interesting and you can create unique drawings with them.

If you prefer to get her some paper, look for something with at least 100gsm (this is the thickness of paper) I find 80gsm too thin for ink drawings.

Maybe also having a look for books on things she might like, like books on historic maps or tattoo designs. Reference books are brilliant for inspiration.

If you live in the US, Masters Airbrushes are very affordable test beds for air brushing.

Master Airbrush Multi-purpose Gravity Feed Dual-action Airbrush Kit

With an Air Tank.

If you live in other countries, you can consider AS186. Almost the same compressor but 220V. You can get a Chinese airbrush for testing purposes.

If you like Aurbrushing, you can upgrade to more branded Airbrushes like Iwata and Badger while keeping the Compressor... Then use the budget airbrush for Priming and such.

I personally have the AS186 for a year and painted assortment of 15+ HGs and MGs with it. Used included China airbrush for a few kits before deciding to get a Sparmax Airbrush since I'm convinced I'll enjoy airbrushing

Branded Airbrush gives better control over the thickness of the line, better for pre-shading.

I'm a beginner who probably has more money than skill, but I would absolutely recommend a Flexcut set. This would be a great choice on a budget.

Most important thing is to make sure you keep the tools as sharp as possible. Flexcut makes a "variable" strop that works on a bunch of different tools and comes with polishing compound.

If you only want to buy a knife, Mora is a great alternative to Flexcut. A knife similar to the KN12 should be roughly the same cost-wise. You can make your own strop out of an old leather belt glued to some wood, so just do some research online for more info and then all you need to buy is some polishing compound.

You can remove them but I personally just leave them attached all the time, I don't find that they get in the way of anything. I use this chair for my normal computer stuff too, the brackets haven't changed anything. Here's a picture of how my chair looks with the brackets to give you a better idea (don't mind the messy cables on the floor). My previous chair wasn't as wide as this one, so the brackets kind of squished my legs a little when I was sitting in it, but it's not a problem with my current chair.

The brackets are very sturdy, you can swivel and rotate them but it takes a lot of force to do so. There's no movement at all when I use my joystick. The only thing is with the velcro - over time, after you've attached and un-attached your joystick so many times, it loses its strength, in which case the joystick does wiggle around a little bit. I personally just replace the velcro every once in a while, and that works fine for me. You could try a heavier duty velcro if it's a concern. I've been using this kind and it's been good enough for me. Hope this helps!

Great advice thank you. I got a set of 12 synthetic detail brushes on amazon for a little over $20 that seems like a great jumping-off point: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7UFLP5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Once I am more confident in my brush care I will spring for W/N. I got the pick of masters brush cleaner too, and set up a wet palette in a small Tupperware box the way I saw on the Tabletop Minions channel: https://youtu.be/96mjmqWTPfM

Airbrushing still seems miles away (advanced) and I don’t think I have a workstation set up for it. I’m going to rattle-can prime the dark imperium box next.

Chiming in because I'm a loudmouth: I can't compare old sample sizes to new, because I just received my first order, but I felt my samples were pretty generous. For only $1, there's enough there for multiple applications of each product. They shadows are so pigmented and cover/blend so easily, you can get away with using the tiniest little amount. I bet I could get at LEAST ten uses out of each sample - at the very least. Probably more! I got little plastic jars from Amazon because I didn't want to screw around with the baggies, and then I just emptied the baggies into the jars. The circular label stickers from the bags fit pretty neatly on the jar lids, and the sample fills about 1/3 of the jar.

I always suggest flexcut for beginners for two reasons, they are fairly inexpensive, and they are sharp and hold an edge well. (I would not suggest using them on anything harder than mahogany or perhaps oak)

If you find you like woodcarving, then I suggest move on to more traditional (And fairly expensive tools like Pfeil, Ashely iles, Two cherries, Auriou, Henry Taylor, Robert Sorby etc)

They do have a small set similar to what you're looking for,

https://www.amazon.com/Beginner-Palm-and-Knife-Set/dp/B005EG033Y/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1483717685&sr=8-4&keywords=flexcut+set

As for wood, basswood is good for beginners, also butternut. I personally hate basswood and prefer to carve woods with a janka hardness of 1000 and up. That's just me though and many folks love basswood, I just find it too soft for my style of carving.

Cleaning, I just pick up the larger shavings and vacuum the rest.

Some resources,

http://www.wood-database.com/

Database on wood with detailed info on each species.

https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/index.php

Very good supplier of woodworking/carving tools, I use them often and they are usually very prompt in shipping.

http://www.constantines.com/

I order from these guys every so often, usually 12x12x2 mahogany blocks.

http://www.japanwoodworker.com/

Another supplier of tools, they also have wood.

http://www.bellforestproducts.com/

Wood supplier, excellent stock of more exotic lumber, I tend to browse the "Hand pick your board" section often.

Also, ebay is a nice place to find carving wood.

hah yea. I got a corner punch just for this campaign. I print on cardstock so they have some thickness to them. All my HotAC printed cards are cut that way :)

Its time consuming, but looks really good.

[edit] Wow. I made a list in Excel of all the extra pilots and i totally missed Braylen :| feels bad. Glad you got it in your list tho haha.

And for another 20 bucks, you can get the deluxe kit with 3 airbrushes.. I bought this and have been very happy with it. Like the others said, it's a good starter kit. My only complaint is not having a header tank for air; oh, and the "regulator" doesn't do much. It seems like the pressure is double for the first second, so I always shoot some air off to the side before making a pass on what I'm painting.

Another great investment in cheap Chinese stuff is the spray booth: this setup is one of my favorite hobby investments. You can replace the filter with any decent filter floss - this stuff for aquariums works great.

He sounds like a good recipient for a Buddha Board.

I'd also think of a pile of great books that delve into the therapy/specialty he's interested in, knowledge goes with any lifestyle. Or maybe a book on how to build furniture yourself that's easy to make and light on the environment.

> Preferably something basic, that improves quality of life and will last a lifetime.

Victorinox Swiss army knife with lots of necessary features. For $50 I don't know too many things that will last a lifetime, maybe someone else here knows better.

If you want a small compressor you want something like this. They come with and without the airtank but if you're willing to shell out the bucks one with a tank is a better option. The one you've linked isn't really suitable to your needs. You could look at a deal like this one and then get a better airbrush as your next purchase. As well, check out sites like harborfreight, they often have deals on compressors.

Honestly, most of my journals only have 5-10 sentences per page. I do a lot of collage, drawing, and abstract painting.

Here's what I suggest:

Buy some cheap liquid watercolors and some [sponges] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VF2KEAI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). You can do backgrounds on every page before you start. This helped me build the habit of nightly journaling, and removed the fear of "ruining" a page. Any parts that I didn't like I could collage over!

Start using your own photos as much as possible. One of the easiest ways to do an image transfer is to alter an image on the computer, then print it out on an ink jet printer. I use cheap-ass photo paper for this, while the photo is fresh. Spray it with water, then put face-down and rub it into the page. (A rubber brayer is nice, but a used gift card or other hard object would be fine.)

Did you know that you can buy bulk stickers from [Amazon???] (https://www.amazon.com/DreamerGO-Graffiti-Transparent-Motorcycle-Skateboard/dp/B01M9FHC08/ref=pd_sim_21_11?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01M9FHC08&pd_rd_r=YGCTQJHQC1ZBD807ASAQ&pd_rd_w=ESCUg&pd_rd_wg=E85wC&psc=1&refRID=YGCTQJHQC1ZBD807ASAQ)

I also suggest making a to-go bag. If you make your backgrounds at the beginning of the week, or before you start the journal, this makes it extra easy. Mine has:

1. [paint markers] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001VB4T86/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
   
2. a few of [these] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0038FIA42/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and [these] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004L87XRA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
   
3. Ephemera (usually from my obnoxious amount of magazine subscriptions, my own drawings, and things I find)
   
4. Glue sticks. Lots of folks here are interested in archival quality glue, but I just use Elmer's.
   
   I often use my journal to annotate from books (I used to do it INSIDE the books, but I found them difficult to read with any new clarity that way, and I'm trying to move to digital.) Since I mostly read self-help/improvement books, that made some great starting points for prompts.

I'm uh, I'm really concerned that "customers that viewed this item also viewed" something called the "Fat Old Fred" after I clicked on that 55 gallon drum of "Passion Lubes" Natural Water-Based Lubricant. The horror that is Fat Old Fred, with his gaping hole of a mouth above his "Bob... Bob had bitch-tits" bitch-tits, just staring back at me with his permanently closed eyes and what appear to be his removable nose and mouth area.

• I don't know if this is somehow Amazon's algorithm tying my Paramedic purchases together, and they think I'd want to buy 55 gallons of lube with what I'm hoping is a CPR/intubation dummy (and totally not a cock-holster with lube4lyfe)... or if this is the result of Trump's measure to allow ISP's to sell your personal info without consent? Either way, they got it wrong because I don't have that kind of money right now.
  
  
  I just know I'm worried about the kind of search suggestions I'm gonna get in the future. Also, in grand Amazon fashion, the most helpful two reviews for the "Fat Old Fred" are here:
  
  > "The handy carrying case is also quite useful for carrying other dismembered obese human torsos.
  
  > Just in case you were curious."
  
  And..
  
  > "I'm really happy with my Fat Old Fred, Black. Though if I'm being up-front, I have to deduct 1 star for it not being quite black. It's actually closer to the color of wet terra cotta. Anyway, I was thrilled upon the arrival of my Fat Old Fred, Black, and immediately began to explore the various uses for a silicon sculpt of a kind-of-old-looking obese torso. My first idea was to cover him in paint and use a trebuchet to launch him at a giant canvas (after all, we all know art is really a process not a product amirite?) but I achieved unsatisfactory results as I seemed to only get face+tits+belly prints. After an hour or so the wall of my warehouse loft wound up looking like a giant had dipped their balls in paint and slapped them all over my wall. Not a good look, unfortunately.
  
  > My backup plan was to pimp him out to the crackheads who have an encampment in the storm drain under my warehouse, and so far I'm happy to say I've already recouped my costs in crack rocks and crusty dollar bills. A-, 8/10 would buy again."
  
  http://i.imgur.com/cT9xoIl.jpg

Which would be easier to start with? I see the benefit of both. Do you have a rotary tool that you would recommend? I've browsed around and was thinking about the Dremel 4000 here but part of me wants to go the hand route....I can do that inside my house without pissing anyone off as much with a rotary. Any recommendations on knives and micros? What about there and here. I'd like to stay under or around $100.00 on my first go of tools. Thanks again

I work in architecture and have a pretty deep understanding of reprographics and what any decent print shop is capable of. I'm personally very excited to make what should be, in most cases, much nicer cards than what PP used in the past. I just checked the errata card PDF they released and you can get a 600dpi image for each card, have it printed on a nice linen or even plastic cardstock and use a corner punch so they have nice rounded corners and fit perfectly into some of the better sleeves available specifically for MTG/popular card game sizes.

I know the DIY/crafty aspect to miniature gaming hasn't historically extended much beyond painting/sculpting/terrain modeling, but why not give a nice set of cards the same treatment we give our beloved minis?

The problem with that kind of compressors are that they don't give out a stable amount of air. That means it may start spitting paint instead of giving a nice constant flow of air/paint.
You're going to get all sorts of opinions. Ones will say they work well, some others (like me), would recommend something with an air tank.
https://www.amazon.com/Zeny-Airbrush-Compressor-Regulator-Filter/dp/B01M33C8MV/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482100140&sr=8-2&keywords=airbrush+compressor+with+tank

Something like that will do the work, it will last you very long if treated correctly and in the long run will save you some money. If you buy the cheap one, even if you only use it for priming and base coating, you will want to get a better one very soon.

In the end, the choice is yours, of course :)

Save your money you are like $100 bucks off getting a decent set up.

Edit: Let me elaborate on my reasons a little bit.

You want an air compressor with a tank and an automatic on/off switch.

This will keep your airbrush from getting pulsating air and the on/off switch will extend the life of your compressor (so will the tank as it isn't running all the time). Some added bonuses is being able to work without a lot of noise.

There are some cheap ones you can buy on amazon. ( TheTC-40T and the Master Tank Compressor)

Airbrushes are tricky. but you still can get soem good ones under $100. Like the Badger Krome RK-1, Badger 105 Patriot, Iwata Neo (Not made by Iwata but supported by them), and Iwata Revolution

For belts, have you considered ordering custom-made ones such as from this site? Alternatively there are guides for making your own that can be found in /r/malefashionadvice and it seems to be pretty easy and cost-effective. I also love my leather hole punch, which I got for less than $10 on Amazon. Hope you find that helpful!

Ok so TLDR Vallejo better bang for your buck and just as good paint as other competitors. Do they provide any matte or is it all satin for Vallejo? Additionally, is the weathering wash from Vallejo the only time you'd recommend Vallejo wash over something like citadel/army painter?


https://www.amazon.com/Miniature-Brushes-Detailing-Painting-Watercolor/dp/B01M7UFLP5/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1ABEORS65JT83&keywords=winsor+and+newton+brushes&qid=1572855562&s=arts-crafts&sprefix=winsor+and+newton+brus%2Carts-crafts%2C188&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExSElGVUkyTjFKUzFKJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzMzNzkwMUlBVDVJMVNQMzVPWiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTMzOTYyMkNSSlVKV1NTV1c0OCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=#customerReviews


Would these be worthy of just a beginner set?

Yeah, it is. Flexcut makes great equipment, I've got a fair number of their tools myself. Personally, I'd spend a bit more and get this set, which will really open your options up and make it easier to create:

http://www.amazon.com/Beginner-Palm-and-Knife-Set/dp/B005EG033Y

The flexcut tools are so well made you only need a strop to keep them honed if you take care of them...no need for a sharpening stone(s).

If conformity with other indie jars is not an issue, you could consider bead jars. I have the Darice 30 bead jar (I love the clear case it comes in) which is about 1.5" high and .75-1" wide. They have many other sizes, like this one. If you have a JoAnn's or Micheal's nearby, they often have 40-75% off of retail items coupon you can print out on their website that are shared between the two stores.

I also have a bunch of unused bead jars from the 30 jar set you could have for free + shipping if you don't care about the clear rectangle case.

please take into account the air compressor too. It can have a major impact on your airbrushing experiences. There are some decent starting ones like:

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Model-TC-40T-Single-Piston/dp/B00WBT7PTW/ref=sr_1_5?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1543076176&sr=1-5&keywords=airbrush+compressor

I used this one for quite awhile with pretty good results but it is loud. I ended up recently buying an iwata compressor and it is super nice but they are expensive.

IWATA NEO CN airbrush and AS-186 compressor.

For a total of 140$ as the time of writing this (on 5.8.2019.) it is the best cheap airbrush and compressor combo.

Why? You get the whole package - Airbrush, a compressor with a tank, air filter and a hose which is all you need to start airbrushing


Iwata Neo is considered the best cheap(est) branded airbrush on the market by many so I used it here, also the AS-186 compressor (Check later in the page about it more) is p good. You also get a hose which far too many people forget to buy when choosing a compressor.


mostly everything


-----


Note for other users - I am currently rewriting the airbrush page a bit (this will be on the top of the page), so if you have any wishes to add to it please comment.

I first bought this set when i started

Gives you a ton of brushes and you dont have to worry about what happens to them. You will mess them up and learn why. I also think having some cheap sythetics like the ones michaels sells (if in us) is helpful. Synthetic sucks because it doesnt hold much paint but that doesnt mean they cant serve a purpose because they have more spring usually and dont fray at tio as quick. There are several other bruah packs on amazon comprable and maybe better then what i listed. I literally just got my windsor brushes today in mail so i cant comment how much better they are but i know i would have destroyed them if i got them when i started. Its a nice way to reward yourdelf after a few months painting

Absolutely. I would recommend a few tools to get started - a cheap set of stitching chisels to get you started (these poke the holes for the needles to go in and out of), a cheap wing divider to scribe a straight stitching line, some waxed thread I linked Ritza Tiger 25 in 0.6mm because it's pretty much all I use, there are cheaper options, but this thread is wonderful to work with. Most of the other thread on amazon is going to be thicker and look too chunky with a 4mm iron IMO. Lastly, some needles. I use and like these. Then just look up a few youtube videos on saddle stitching. You'll have it down in no time. It's really not super difficult, there are a few tricks to making it look nice.

I bought a Jewelers Loupe from Amazon and held it up in front of my Google Pixel phone. It took a few pictures to get a good one, but my phone has a pretty good camera to work with. I think next time I would get something with 100x, the 60x is decent (what I used for the closer ones), but the 30x is pretty hard to tell what color the trichs are.

Save your money. You need $20 more for a decent starter brush here, I wouldn’t buy one of these, I had one, made one model and sold it. In honesty I’d save up, double your money and buy either a kit like this compressor with tank with brush, or preferably just the compressor for $70 and a decent airbrush like the Iwata neo for $60.

A compressor with a tank means the compressor doesn’t run all the time so prolongs the compressor life itself. It has a decent water trap and regulator to adjust pressure.

A Neo is a superb brush for the money, cheap Chinese airbrushes have less accuracy, require deeper cleaner and can give a frustrating experience.

It’s often worth spending once and spending right in this field. Hence I suggest saving your money.

the duck is alive

I LOVE this stuff. It's like powdered Christmas. Big Train Spiced Chai

And now I can't stop thinking about how nice it'd be to be sipping on that while playing with these... Pentel Arts Aquash Water Brushes 😀

Anyone care to provide some input on my first air brush setup? I haven't bought it yet but this is what I'm planning on purchasing:

Airbrush = Badger 105 Patriot
Compressor = Master Airbrush TC-40T
Spray Booth = Master Portable Spray Booth

Here's a few of the lingering questions I have:

• What cleaning kit would you recommend? Does the cleaner fluid matter that much?
  
• Is the TC-40T worth it over the TC-20T? Looking at it and reading the reviews on Amazon it seems like it's worth
  
• Anything else I would need that I'm missing? I'm still researching the different types of paint and everything.

I mean, can't they change their company name? I guess its probably not cheap, but then this is a problem literally because they have been too successful in their marketing

edit: Maybe I'm wrong, not an expert, but it seems to me they are in this predicament because they advertised their products as Velcro, not Velcro hook and loop.

https://smile.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Industrial-Strength-Strips/dp/B0010HADEA/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1506366556&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=velcro&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Sticky-Strips-Black/dp/B000TGSPV6/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1506366556&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=velcro&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Sticky-Back-Black/dp/B00006IC2L/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1506366556&sr=8-6&keywords=velcro

https://smile.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Industrial-Strength-Black/dp/B00006RSP1/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1506366556&sr=8-7&keywords=velcro

https://smile.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Thin-Fasteners-Tape/dp/B0013AIAQ2/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1506366556&sr=8-10&keywords=velcro

None of them list hook and loop anywhere, though to their credit they do list Velcro BRAND very clearly. And one of them does mention the product type as fastener. They should start advertising and packaging them as Velco brand hook and loop fasteners. That way if someone challenges their trademark in court, they can point out that every single one of their product's promotional material clearly separates the product from the company - right now, that's not clear in their own marketing (outside this video of course).

u/didgeboy and u/Monti21 make valid points. I picked up an inexpensive air compressor and cheap airbursh from Amazon. While the compressor is has turned out to be very nice - quiet, easily adjustable - I upgraded to an Iwata Neo and haven't touched the cheap airbrush since. I've picked up a second Neo, and am now looking to buy something for more detailed work. Paint flow through the better airbrushes is much more consistent. I've really enjoyed the learning curve!

> I mean, why else is there "20 pounds of ass" sitting on one of our shelves, next to a torso.

https://www.amazon.com/Fuck-Silly-Bubble-Butt-RD173/dp/B01CGZJGT2?th=1

It doesn't quite look realistic anyway, even with the skin colour...

but then I guess it would look even less realistic without the skin tone?

Also, completely unrelated, but equally hilarious :

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004JOB9Z8/

Great review :

>The handy carrying case is also quite useful for carrying other dismembered obese human torsos.

Well let's see, I need this because sometimes you just need to see the word fuck in cross stitch! And I need it because I could totally give these out for Christmas presents!

Or I need this because my daughter has been reading them and is up to this book and she has pestered me for a week to get it for her!

Or my husband needs this because he is a totally awesome, amazing, Dad and veteran and this would be an amazing way to let the world know!!

Unfortunately, most cheap sets aren't worth buying. A nice combo set, which has the two most common types of blades and the two most common types of "gouges" can be had for around $55. This, IMHO, is a great starter kit.

Do you think he'd be more interested in carving figures, like whittling, or relief carving, which is like creating scenes on flat panels?

Yo. So Im looking to upgrade my airbrush currently I have a paasche talon but I would like to upgrade to something better. I also want to upgrade my compressor too, I have this one currently Master Airbrush High Performance compressor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005H3CBXO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qkttzb6V143GH. But regarding that I also wanted to know if I should upgrade it or is it worth it to keep it. As far as a budget not looking to spend over 250$ for both. I'm just a little loss and looking for some help.
Tl;dr looking to upgrade airbrush and seeing if its worth to upgrade compressor. Budget 250

Oh goodness, if you like ink you muuuust try Inktense blocks!! There is a 24 set with WHITE! I know it's not "traditional" to have white, but I love em! They go on dry, then add the water OR you can premix with water and use the ink that way. Once it is wet and has dried. You can go over it again with out worry the under layer will smear!! (Long as all the dry portions were wet at some point and dried.) IT IS AWESOME!

The company Derwent also has a set of Inktense pencils that work the same way, and keep your hands somewhat cleaner.

Also you can set Inktense on fabric, so designing on shirts, quilts and what have you is just eaaasy! There are a LOT of ways to use these! Printmaking, watercolors, stamping, inking, washes!~ Add to gesso or Mod Podge for a colored glaze! Lots of things really... It can cater to the professionals, amateurs and beginners!

There is also a set of water pens that you may be interested in, with trying these. I have always used brushes though, with water.. Or I wet the brush, and just dab it on the lil block its self. Or chip off a lil piece of color and add water to it on a little pallet. (Piece of plastic lol.)


Question: Can the name be computerized, long as it is drawn? Aka mouse/tablet?

So yeah, you can draw an eye at a time. That's great, because you took the time to notice what those gooey ocular nerves look like. Now you should buy a sketchbook and a few ink pens to aid your creativity. When I talk about effort, I mean time, dedication, focus, attention to detail.

Starting with a brush pen (fibeliner) will cause you all sorts of headaches. Although a novel way to make different lines and weights, I use it for large features or final touches.

I started with these great Steadler pens and this exact Sketchbook. The pens last me a long time, maybe 6 months of drawing almost every day.

I've drawn for a little more than two years, but have gotten exceptionally better because I bought the appropriate supplies.

I'm not OP, but it looks like an airbrush station which is purchasable on Amazon. Something like https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Portable-Painting-T-shirts/dp/B00BMUH8L6/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=airbrush+station&qid=1566241870&s=gateway&sr=8-4 . Hope this helps!

I came across these Jane Davenport Mermaid Markers at Michael's when I went to pick up some Tombow brush pens. I went back and forth on buying them but in the end I caved. They're like any old refillable water brush, and it's way cheaper than buying 12 water brushes and filling them with fountain pen inks (I have one water brush dedicate to FP ink). They're a dye-based water soluable ink and the tips are bristles instead of a flexible marker tip. A little ink goes a long way so I can see these lasting for a long time before I need to refill them!

 

Also I love seeing /u/colette0101's posts and I need more art-doing in my life!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002KSQHB6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(inexpensive, also includes moisture trap)

​

This is the same version I use, pretty useful in a small house. I do use this spray booth to help with overspray, and I use a basic respirator for the air particles. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I1YI09O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Hope this helps!

Maybe! De-bagging makes things a lot less messy for me, at least. I (and others around here) use Darice bead jars, which are fairly affordable and store nicely. Bonus: the little round labels that Shiro includes with sample baggies fit almost perfectly on the top or bottom of the linked jars.

You can buy them here. You have to buy them in packs of 50 for like $70. I believe they're priced that way because they own a patent for the matte finish laminate and they are "industrial" grade. It works amazingly well with thicker mecahnical pencil lead (0.9mm or thicker). It almost looks like you're writing with a marker, and then completely erases with no trace.

They sent me a free sample of them, so I did a couple for AQ, too:

• Arcadia Quest campaign trackers from official PDFs
  
• Arcadia Quest campaign tracker on matte side, rules on glossy side
  
  I bought a corner cutter to clean the corners up. Works very well, too. I got that from Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0076FJ7SS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7UFLP5/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apap_VXeK8UhVERMpw

This brush set was the single best (and one of the cheapest), investments I made early on in this hobby. There's a great variety of sizes and styles, and it really let's you figure out what you're comfortable with.

This is just my second wallet, heavily inspired by /u/sgircys (thanks for the awesome tutorial). The leather is 2-3 oz Oak Leaf from Tandy. I've given it a couple of coats of neatsfoot oil and left it in the sun for a day. The tread is 0.8 mm black tiger thread. Chisels are these cheap ones from amazon. I've used the 6 prong one to do all of the holes in the wallet.

Another side question, if I want to get a dye would you guys recommend the oil based ones or water based?

Airbrush

Compressor

X-acto -Z series blades are great.

For sandpaper you can just buy some popsicle sticks and 400, 600, 1000 grain, and then a buffing pad from a nearby hobby store or something like walmart even, it's all the same honestly. The popsicle sticks you can wrap the paper over to give you something to rub it against easily. Just practice on some of the parts that come with a kit that don't get used so you aren't eating away too much plastic.

DREAME 30X 60X LED Lighted Illuminated Jewelers Eye Loupe Jewelry Magnifier for Gems Jewelry Rocks Stamps Coins Watches Hobbies Antiques Models Photos https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DWG89KQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

That’s the one I use. Works perfectly, is super affordable, and has saved me twice already.

This is my setup, I'm happy with it.

https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-Revolution-Action-Large-Gravity/dp/B000BQS3UWhttps://www.amazon.com/Paasche-D500SR-Compressor-Regulator-Moisture/dp/B000BR2HOO

Additionally, a decent airbrush that is a little cheaper.https://www.amazon.com/NEO-Gravity-Feed-Action-Airbrush/dp/B004INERK4Something to keep in mind, is that the NEO is NOT made by Iwata. It's a Chinese airbrush with their name on it. But I've heard it's quite decent. Here's a video on it, and it's got a great video for learning to clean your airbrush in the description. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8YKUA2SGzU

I just bought one as a starting kit a few weeks ago. I bought the one with the compressor with attached air tank. So far it's worked great for me and it's eased me into airbrushing and airbrush maintenance without having to worry about spoiling it, because the airbrush itself is just 25 bucks or less. If you do buy it, before starting, make sure you apply thread seal tape on all male connectors, and also soak the little nozzle and small parts in a warm mix of dish soap and water.

Edit : here's the Amazon link. https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Dual-Action-TC-20T-Compressor/dp/B002KSQHB6/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1549108384&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=master+airbrush+with+air+compressor&dpPl=1&dpID=41nADShdRIL&ref=plSrch

Yknow, I almost got you some Performance Colors pressed shadows in the exchange, but I couldn't decide what colors to get you.

As far as storage, I found this at my local Micheals. There's also a 30 pc version for a couple bucks cheaper.

If you like Jasmine, sixteen92's Hellebore is so good. You might like Ex Tenebris Lux too.

And if you need brushes, BH Cosmetics is running a good sale right now.

I'm looking to get a spray booth for airbrushing. Amazon has a bunch of those fold-up all-in-one booths like this in the $90-$120 range. I'm wondering if anyone can vouch for their effectiveness. It just needs to do an OK job venting lacquer fumes from an airbrush, I won't be using any spray cans with it.

If those things are junk, I'm wondering if anyone has built one of those DIY plastic bin type booths, and can recommend a good, budget-priced fan to use.

Good work! :)

You should check out this if you like subversive patterns. It's amazing.

Gotcha. Does it stretch or move a lot when you cut it?

Yeah that’s not the best way to mark stitching lines so I recommend a wing divider. This will be cost effective and will help tremendously with your stitching.

I bought these two when I started and still use them.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0779R5FCJ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_A727AbF4N33A3

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014549SNG/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_a827AbKEF359B

They work great for me and will eventually upgrade to some quality tools like KS.

Ever look into getting something more like a pigment pen? I admit, I'm a Pilot G2 guy myself so I am interested in seeing what recommendations there.

Something like the Staedtler or Sakura is what I am referring to. They have a bit more bleed-through if you are writing on standard A4 paper, but when I've had the pleasure of using those types of instruments I am never disappointed.

I really want to try my hands at woodburning! I have this tool on my crafts and hobbies wishlist. It can make some pretty cool stuff! LOOK AT THIS! I want! :D

/u/fatalis_vox duuuuuuuuuuuuude let's get creative in herre

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQS3UW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$90, just make sure to order a hose too (only airbrush i bought that didnt come with one). You can use a cheapy air compressor till you save for a good one.

Damn good airbrush. With Flo Improver i can run ANY paint through it, GW, P3, Vallejo, doesnt matter

Someone here recommended these and they are perfect! I take the label off the baggie and put it on the lid or the side of the little jar. They are screw top, not snap, but so far I am loving it! plus the jars come out so you can rearrange, etc.

I airbrush in my apartment which is in NH. I can show you my setup once I get home (at work now). It's made from a plastic storage box, a bathroom fan, a filter and some dryer flex hose XD During the winter I have the hose going out my sliding glass door with a heavy blackout curtain covering the gap in the door

I use this compressor and so far its worked damned well for what I've used it for

Okay, thanks. Would this be a good starter set you think? Then if I enjoy it enough and get some more cash pick up some of the north forge ones eventually.

These plants - they are clean air plants, and come in 4 inch pots, so they don't take a lot of space. Good for most homes (and, not asking, but they also make self aerating pots that hold more water without water logging roots - that's on my wishlist too - a good add for later when you need to move your plants to a larger pot - plus the extra room for more water means less likely to die from lack of - though I am scatterbrained and still need a reminder on my phone for my plants at home that aren't in my space and easily noticeable- my work plants, though, they thrive!)

Edit: adding more stuff cause I just saw that you ok'd it in the comments, and the one about you and hot sauce (I, too, now am subscribed to r/spicy so thanks to u/lolpengi), and your hobbies in another comment - I have hot sauce and a TON of interesting or gorgeous cross stitch patterns

Bravado Hot Sauces - I have wanted to try the ghost pepper blueberry ever since I saw it on Hot Ones

Cross stitch links:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01LQ88NX0/?coliid=IMMZVTQPNAVR1&colid=3RPZNJ3MGKMVY&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/1576877558/?coliid=I3UA7SIN42VHH2&colid=3RPZNJ3MGKMVY&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07JZ9TS5Q/?coliid=I3OXO5QU33B3WD&colid=3RPZNJ3MGKMVY&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/1632504537/?coliid=I1FX6SRBT2TI91&colid=3RPZNJ3MGKMVY&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00WEM5RDW/?coliid=I8EZR5Q6262UT&colid=3RPZNJ3MGKMVY&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

The felt does both. The glass spacer doesn’t have the curve that follows the edge of the headset so the felt blocks light and gets the proper angle so the pad is actually resting on something. Everything is fastened by the adhesive of the felt or Velcro but I did use string to tighten a few places.

I use VELCRO Brand Industrial Strength Fasteners | Stick-On Adhesive | Professional Grade Heavy Duty Strength Holds up to 10 lbs on Smooth Surfaces | Indoor Outdoor Use | 4 x 2 inch Strips, 4 Sets, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010HADEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_k7EsDbRW79609

This is the same Velcro I used to attach DAS it’s easy to cut to shape and applies very firmly.

Im using this one: https://www.amazon.com/DREAME-Illuminated-Jewelers-Magnifier-Antiques/dp/B01DWG89KQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480381794&sr=8-1&keywords=jewelers+loupe
has x30 and x60 and im pretty Happy with it, might want to give it a try. :)

A Buddha Board, its one of the coolest things I've seen that somewhat relates to meditation. I'm sure your friend would love it! Buddha Board Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQS3UW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

I just bought this, and it's great for me. It has a .5mm tip which would probably be considered large - they're usually .3mm. That big honkin' tip means I can blow any paint through it with little or no thinning.

I also bought the Master starter kit for like $70 that comes with a working compressor and crappy airbrush. Honestly, if it could blow the glittery createx crap that I use it would have been perfectly OK for gunpla. My plan is to use this compressor until it burns up (reviews say it will). http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TO578Q?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

I currently use kuretake watercolors with these brush pens and I think they’re pretty solid. It’s not a huge investment and I think they’re a good starter pack for casual water colorists.

I highly also recommend clipping your pages and having maybe a hair dryer handy so your pages don’t warp from getting too wet.

Basically, when a compressor has an air tank it gives you a steadier supply of air, less pulsations, while also extending the life of the compressor itself.

The AS186 that /u/whatsmyloginagain brought up is similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Model-TC-40T-Single-Piston/dp/B00WBT7PTW/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=master+airbrush+compressor&qid=1563943691&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Compressors that have more than one piston also provide more airflow and less pulsations. You're basically buying a very basic compressor for a premium price if you choose the grex bundle. I'm sure the grex has better quality control, but the majority of people who have purchased tankless compressors (including myself) have come to regret it.

On the airbrush front, I second what whatsmyloginagain brought up. Buying an Infinity is basically buying a top tier brush for this hobby and gunpla. I'd recommend looking at Mr Hobby/GSI Creos airbrushes before you decide to purchase an Iwata, as theres a 99% chance they're made by the same company. Check out spraygunner.com if you want to browse through the Mr Hobby line. Alternatively, you could order straight from a Japanese hobby shop and save a couple of dollars, but lose out on any sort of customer support.

Yep! I bought this and it fits my eyeshadow sample baggies perfectly :)
The Shiro labels go on almost exactly (I suggest putting them on the bottom so you can see colors from above), and I put Aromaleigh labels on the side.

I use these and love them, they aren't too expensive either which is great

https://smile.amazon.com/Miniature-Brushes-Detailing-Painting-Watercolor/dp/B01M7UFLP5/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=26021GRETRWYH&keywords=minature+paint+brushes&qid=1567396526&s=gateway&sprefix=minature+%2Caps%2C212&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzNUdBS0k2M0VDQTRPJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzc2OTg2MkdBUkpSSEo0VUVPVCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDgwMTIxMU5ZM1pDVkpFUlNENyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Mods informed me my original list got deleted for posting the pattern with the picture.

I did this in 14 count black cloth, and used pink floss for the flowers instead of red like it asked for. I got the pattern from a book on Amazon called "50 Fucking clever designs for your sassy side"

Subversive Cross Stitch: 50 Fcking Clever Designs for Your Sassy Side https://www.amazon.ca/dp/1576877558/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_L3KZCbXWZXPQM

I have a loop and one of these:
Phone Camera Lens 3 In 1 Kit, 180 Degree Fisheyes Lens, 10X Macro Lens, 0.4X Wide Angle Lens High Definition, Clip-on Smart Cell Phone Lenses Universal For Iphone, Samsung, LG, Android Phones (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072525MR8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8.Iyzb1WQAD0J

The macro helps with taking pictures but the loop has better mag for looking at the trichromes.

My loop has an led light built in and works really well when I remember to turn it off when I'm done:

DREAME 30X 60X LED Lighted Illuminated Jewelers Eye Loupe Jewelry Magnifier for Gems Jewelry Rocks Stamps Coins Watches Hobbies Antiques Models Photos https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DWG89KQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0bJyzbPP25G5H

A magnifying loupe is super useful here, and they're not too expensive. I got one similar to this, which I like for the LED -- I very rarely use the 60x lens.

But that'll show you how your tines are misaligned, which I presume is the problem causing scratchyness. If so, it's easy to fix with just fingers -- don't use pliers or anything 'till you've been doing this for years, they make it too easy to apply way too much force to a small area.

vertical misalignment

spacing misalignment

I got this one off Amazon: Gravity Feed Multi-Purpose Airbrushing System Kit with a Pro Set G222 Master Airbrush with 3 Nozzle Sets (0.2, 0.3 & 0.5mm Needles, Fluid Tips and Air Caps) - Powerful Compressor with Air Storage Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KSQHB6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ES-QCbZCKBJE9

Worked really well, glad I got the one with the tank!

Got a cheap one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KSQHB6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_5M-GDbKX1X3P9. Works fine for me, but I'm still pretty new to it. Nice for priming (with the 0.5 tip) and basecoating at least.

You can get a NEO for Iwata airbrush for around 60$ on Amazon as well as a Master compressor for about 70$. That's pretty close to your price range. The NEO is a great starter airbrush and I still use it all the time. The compressor isn't great, but it does the job. I had this same compressor for about a year until something happened to it during a move and it stopped working correctly. It worked great until that point though

Hey thanks a lot!

It's holding up using the strongest velcro tape I could find at my local hardware store.
It's strong enough as it doesn't move at all even my I plug or unplug XLR cables from it.

I think that's exactly what I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010HADEA

Yeah, I have a 30x and 60x which you can buy from Amazon here. It definitely requires a steady hand since the depth of focus is pretty shallow, but I like how much detail it gives.

I use this and another one. Sadly I lost all the tips recently and I'm working with just one. Don't loose them, they come in handy when you get better.

It's kind of like a pen with a steel (?) tip that's interchangeable depending on what you're doing. I would suggest getting wood from a craft store (Michael's), heating up the woodburner and trying things out. It can take a lot of patience at first to even do lines. Experiment with how long to hold it on the wood to make a line.

Oh, also if the wood isn't pre-sanded, make sure to get some sand paper and sand it down. At least that's what my grandma always told me to do, so it's now habit. :o

I also trace lightly in pencil what I'm going to do before I actually go and burn something. If you're not a very good artist you can always tape something to the wood and press on the paper and trace. It won't leave a pencil/pen mark, but it will leave an indent you can see and go over with the wood burner.

Afterwards stain it and leave it out to dry for a few hours.

Have a lot of fun and experiment. It's such a fun hobby!

I’m on my second master compressor. I upgraded last week to one with a tank. The master brand of compressors are decent for beginners.

I’m not a fan of the actual airbrush they come with and upgraded that early on.

I’m also not familiar with the paints listed in that link.

I second the suggestion to find one without the paints and pick up something from vallejo. Vallejo has two lines of air brush paint and both are decent. They offer different colors in each. You can also get citadel/games workshop brand air paint but I’m not a fan of the bottles they come in. Plus they tend to be more expensive.

While the accessories in the one you linked are nice to have, he can get away without having them. I mix my paints in the airbrush so I don’t need cups or mixing sticks. You could check out the one below which is the compressor with tank and a basic airbrush.

Master Airbrush Cool Runner II Dual Fan Air Tank Compressor System Kit with a Pro Set G222 Gravity Airbrush Kit with 3 Tips 0.2, 0.3 & 0.5 mm - Hose, Holder, How-to Guide - Hobby, Auto, Cake, Tattoo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KSQHB6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YWP3DbEJ9QG39

I recommend getting this to air in cleaning the airbrush.

4 SET Airbrush Spray Gun Wash Cleaning Tools Needle Nozzle Brush Glass Cleaning Pot Holder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0154HN2NA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sYP3Db0DV1NXC

I would say it's as close to the vive w/ DAS as the quest could be comfort-wise, an immense improvement overall. The face cushion of the vive is more plush but that's the only difference IMO.

Links are in the description, but here they are as well:

• HTC Vive Deluxe Audio Strap - http://amzn.com/B06Y2GDXMC
  
• VELCRO Industrial Strength Strips: http://amzn.com/B0010HADEA
  
• 1 Inch Velcro Straps (The ones I used, but you can find better): http://amzn.com/B074V2MFMC
  
• 1 Inch Velcro Straps (Better ones): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I0TTPL8
  
• 1.5 Inch D Ring: http://amzn.com/B076J5RVNW
  
  edit: added new velcro

DREAME 30X 60X LED Lighted Illuminated Jewelers Eye Loupe Jewelry Magnifier for Gems Jewelry Rocks Stamps Coins Watches Hobbies Antiques Models Photos https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DWG89KQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_n4KFyb8GRG988

I use a similar one. It's good enough to verify rosette pattern, clean black ink lines, blue paper layer, and the LEDs are strong enough for light tests.

There are the three heavy hitters for pattern books for subversive cross stitch:

Feminist Cross Stitch

Subversive Cross Stitch

Improper Cross Stitch

You can also find a TON of projects on Etsy to gift your match.

If you want to do something cheaper or less, stitchers can always use more floss (310, White, Ecru, 666 are some key numbers/colors to look for) and aida (cross stitching fabric). Feel free to check out our gift giving guide for other ideas!

Here is an entry-level knife set with two useful palm gouges

He would also need honing compound to keep them sharp. He'd need to find a strip of leather to glue onto a nice flat board to apply the compound to. You can buy just plain leather all over the place, like here.

I don't know too many people that carve with balsa, never tried it myself either. Most carvers in North America though use basswood or tupelo.

Oh, wow, that's beautiful. I've been looking at that one in my local store for a while.

Still on the little pen-type burner.

I've got this one from Amazon. Several friends also have it. It works like a champ and is economically priced too.

I was looking at the one linked from home depot, but I was also looking at this other one from Amazon, the Master airbrush model TC-40T but a lot of the reviews say it doesn't last very long before breaking.

I really need something portable and small for storage (apartment living), that ideally has a tank to cool down.

I wanna get into airbrushing as handpainting is too exhausting and many of the coolest looking kits i've seen have custom paint jobs. The world of airbrushes and compressors seems overwhelming, though. Can anyone recommend:

• a brush and compressor
  
• A starting set of paints -- I think my preference would be acrylic, as I already have a few Tamiya acrylics and thinner
  
• Share some links about use and maintenance?
  
  I'm planning on getting the Badger 105 patriot and this Master airbrush compressor
  
  Is Amazon usually the best way to go?

I'm only experienced with a basic kit, which has a few different tips. Basically, I use 3, a fine point, medium point and a thicker point to fill.
Something like this should work for what you described....
Walnut Hollow Creative Woodburner Introduction Value Pen for Beginners and Intermediate Woodburners https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VRTG8Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tJZkDb8K213ZE

I use a 30x/60x loupe with LED lighting. Super cheap and does a fine job. Loupe $11 now, same as when I bought it.

For coins or anything I need a finer, more stable look at, I use a 60x-120x LED-lit microscope. Microscope $13 now, bought it for $6.60 a couple years ago.

Sorry I didn't see your reply, I use a loupe I got from amazon and I'm pretty happy with it.

DREAME 30X 60X LED Lighted Illuminated Jewelers Eye Loupe Jewelry Magnifier for Gems Jewelry Rocks Stamps Coins Watches Hobbies Antiques Models Photos https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DWG89KQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_jzAkWlzFE5QCn

Those pics are taken with my iPhone 7 though the 60x magnifier.

I use an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS (the gravity feed one, and not the CN knockoff) and it works pretty good. My nozzle clogs up every now and again if I've got my thinning slightly off but otherwise, no major problems yet. I ended up picking up the compressor that was discussed here on the wiki and it works pretty well so far, and it's quiet enough that you can't hear it in the room next door. I live in a townhouse so that was really important for me. As with anything though, see what works for you and read reviews. This Amazon link is the exact one that I bought (and according to honey, its about 30% now than it was a month ago, so good time to buy lol).

Well, if you are looking for a wide variety of tools: i started with these

Though to start you would probably do fine with just a knife

or if you want to spend a little more you can't go wrong with drake

It's tough to recommend a knife as a starting point though. Obviously I don't want to say "You need to go out and spend a bunch of money, or you'll regret it" Because the truth is you would probably be fine with the knife sets you were looking at before.

I would say 1 good quality knife is better than 5 poor quality knives though. I have no personal experience with the sets you were looking at, but I have seen a few random posts where people have expressed that the sets they found at hobby lobby didn't hold their edges very well, which can be a frustrating experience.

At the same time, spending 10 dollars on a set of knives, might be all you need to decide if you are into the hobby or not and want to spend more money on it. It's tough. I would however go into that situation knowing that if you spend 10 dollars on a set of 5 knives, odds are good in a short amount of time if you decide you are into the hobby, you will feel their lack and want better knives.

Like the idea. If you have $10, get one of these: Woodburner Really easy to do detailed burns. Just make sure to burn before staining!

This pretty much. I started doing the lesson using a ballpoint pen and ran into the same problem regarding the indents being left on the paper. When I was doing ghosting lines it really started to become apparent that I should pick up a fineliner. Whenever I would use a ruler to make my first line it would leave an indent in the paper, so whenever I would do superimposing lines I was never sure if I was actually drawing my lines as straight as I was or if my hand was just trailing along the indentation left on the paper.

I'm currently using a Staedtler Pigment Liner that I bought from Amazon for $10.72, I'd recommend it.

I have that Master Airbrush kit. You get what you pay for. It worked alright for a couple uses then crapped out on me. The compressor is still kicking though and I currently use it to power my Iwata Revolution, which has taken a couple months of heavy use like a champion so far.

I wanted to give a heads up for those looking to save money with DIY foams. I went through 3 orders of Comply tips over a 3-4 month span. They would literally tear up due to the excess earwax after 2-3 weeks of use(even with the earwax proof version). I got fed up and ordered these

I've been using these DIY tips for a long time and its been amazing.
Puncher
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NK5VY2/
Tips
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013A0C0Y

http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Noise-Isolating-Earbud-Tips/

I've gone through about 8 pairs of DIY foam tips with my Triplefi v10 and still have tons of spare foam tips left.

I got a small 16$ set from amazon ( Electop 31 Pcs Leather Sewing... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07998XNQK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share )

A small all metal diamond punch set ( Aiskaer White Steel 4mm 1/2/4/6... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014549SNG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share )

And a really nice, cheap, knife ( BANYOUR Leather Knife Cutting... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LD4PC2D?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share )

They worked for what I needed, especially as a beginner!

Daniel Smith Essentials set $23 , Arches Hot Press Watercolor Pad $11, Pentel Waterbruahes 3 pack - $13 , and a bottle of [India Ink $3] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001E6CUPC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1478233526&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX280_SY350_QL65&keywords=india+ink&dpPl=1&dpID=51a6zmSbLPL&ref=plSrch). If I had a little extra, I'd spring for the da Vinci round 6 sable travel brush - favorite all around brush for smaller paintings :)

What about you? What would you have purchased? Or are you looking to buy?

This is the tank I got. And this is the airbrush I got. So far they have been working well (only airbrushing for a month). Check out the company's Amazon store or their website for some cheaper item that they might have. Hope it helps.

thats a great starter airbrush and should be perfect as a workhorse.

you just need a basic airbrush compressor to start with. the cost goes up the more quiet the compressor is while building up pressure.

i use this kit https://www.amazon.com/ZENY-Airbrush-Compressor-Multipurpose-Tattoo/dp/B01M33C8MV/ref=sr_1_20?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1526986007&sr=1-20&keywords=airbrush+compressor

the hose it comes with should work with the neo.

HandHook I think you'll love this

/u/argirl09 (my latest newbie) has a water writing board thing on her list. I've played with one and can say that if five minutes of readability is too much but you also don't want the ability to erase your work at will, this is for you. Do you have cats? They'll enjoy drinking from and pushing over the water glass you leave out to use with the board.

Small container of lube.

That unit will work, but a bunch of manufacturers make near-identical compressors and some are cheaper, like this one.

​

Some reviews note poor quality on the fitting between the air tank and the water trap/regulator assembly, but that hasn't been my experience. Maybe quality control has improved since those reviews, or maybe I just got lucky. Your mileage may very.

If you have any plants, moonwater is great for tending them. You can also use it in teas, baths, cleansing sprays, and as a base for any kind of magical liquid mixture.

I also like to use it for making temporary drawings/inscriptions - marking out a circle on the floor, or writing on a buddha board.

What about the Iwata Revolution. Seems to be halfway there is terms of price, but unlike NEO is actually manufactured in Japan (supposedly higher quality). That's what I as a beginner bought and I love it.

16

You need this [Buddha Board] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010TEFFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_ryIQwb3AYPNY7)

It is a super cool canvas that you paint with water and then it disappears in minutes. Zen painting. :)

I have this container that's designed for holding small beads, works great to keeping parts contained, and secured if needed. Similar to this

$60 on Amazon . 2 knives and 2 gouges. they come sharp and are pretty easy to keep sharp (I bought that brand's slipstrop for sharpening).

Depends on the size. A size '01' is .25mm which is fine for most of the smaller panel lines. There is a size '005' which is .2mm and if you can find one, it's more versatile than the 01.

My son started panel lining with markers and honestly, my set of Liners work just as well as the different brand name markers he has for much cheaper.

The new hotness though is using Tamiya wash and an extra fine nib in a fountain pen holder. Panel lining with a wash (premade or lacquer-based DIY wash) is a whole new world.

Using something like this is a lot cheaper than buying new belts. Works great.

So, I saved up some money and have a break from school finally coming up. I see that alot of the badgers are decently priced (i think im going to stay away from the iwata as they are generally over 100). But is there a certain badger that you recommend? the one you originally linked seems like a good one, but is there any details with these other ones that you may have dealt with?

1)

2)

3)

[4)](http://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-200-10-Gravity-Airbrush/dp/B003970D3U/ref=sr_1_31?ie=UTF8&qid=1456908816&sr=8-31&keywords=gravity+feed+airbrush
)

5)

Im sorry for sending a bunch of links, but i'd thought id ask and see what you may say :D

Flexcut makes good carving tools at reasonable prices. This is a great starter set, IMHO.

Flexcut Beginner Palm & Knife Set, All-Purpose Cutting Knife and Detail Knife Included, with 2 Palm Tools (KN600) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005EG033Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XORFDb8F3QMA6

Use a wing divider to draw your stitch line.

Leather Wing Divider KangTeer 5.5 inch Leathers DIY Tool Adjustable Craft Edge Creaser Rotating Leathercraft Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CK2569L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.gN1Bb9T67MEM

Then, use a diamond chisel to punch your holes.

Aiskaer White Steel 4mm 1/2/4/6 Prong DIY Diamond Lacing Stitching Chisel Set Leather Craft Kits (4mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014549SNG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uiN1Bb2NAQ60Z

I use both of these products and have zero issues getting clean stitching.

For your budget I'll go with a Badger Patriot 105 Arrow, it's so easy to use and clean and the Arrow will give you a fine line if needed. A cheap compressor with a tank and a quick connect and you're good to go !

Badger Patriot Arrow : https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Co-105-2XR-Airbrush/dp/B00471RFQA/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=badger+patriot+105&qid=1567304916&s=gateway&sprefix=badger+pa&sr=8-5

Quick connect Badger for all hose : https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Co-51-038-Disconnect/dp/B000BPOJCO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=badger+quick+connect&qid=1567305182&s=gateway&sprefix=badger+qui&sr=8-3

Cheap Compressor : https://www.amazon.com/ZENY-Airbrush-Compressor-Airbrushing-Multipurpose/dp/B01M33C8MV/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=airbrush+compressor+with+tank&qid=1567305014&s=gateway&sprefix=airbrush+compressor+&sr=8-3

With airbrush cleaner and thinner, and a cleaner pot, I think I fit your budget.... You can use the standard Badger Patriot 105 but the needle is .75mm instead of .5mm so you get less fines lines

u know how satisfied u will nbe if uy clicj on one foi rthese linkish

https://www.amazon.com/Uncle-Jims-Worm-Farm-Composting/dp/B000Q5S7RM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491257886&sr=8-1&keywords=worms

https://www.amazon.com/Dummy-Display-Phone-Model-Non-working/dp/B01MTVDPOQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491257901&sr=8-1&keywords=fake+iphone

https://www.amazon.com/Nasco-Fetus-13-Weeks/dp/B004JOD3G6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491257919&sr=8-1&keywords=fetus

https://www.amazon.com/Nasco-Fat-Old-Fred-Black/dp/B004JOB9Z8/ref=pd_sbs_328_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004JOB9Z8&pd_rd_r=80Y6TG8QQ7R4GMA6TJEH&pd_rd_w=SAtuy&pd_rd_wg=dARaX&psc=1&refRID=80Y6TG8QQ7R4GMA6TJEH

https://www.amazon.com/RCA-RCT6103W46H-10-inch-Android-Keyboard/dp/B013LAHT40/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491257959&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=rca+tablet&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Whitelabel-Bluetooth-Dongle-Compatible-BlueSoleil/dp/B00E86EFY4/ref=sr_1_25?ie=UTF8&qid=1491257981&sr=8-25&keywords=bluetooth+dongle

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[thasnk gpeopel fmor all yur support

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Beginning Paint Set

Good Beginner Brushes

Palette I still use

This should get you started, the only other thing I'd suggest is getting a black wash (I use citadel paints so I use Nuln Oil, unsure what the technical term for it is). The thing is, I've purchased a ton of stuff. A TON OF STUFF. I never ended up using the Dry Paint set that I got, out of all of the washes I only use two of them on a regular basis and I use expensive brushes now. If you're just starting out it's better to use these synthetic brushes because they're cheaper and you don't have to worry too much if they get ruined. Expensive brushes are great, but you won't know why until you get better.

Recently moved away from all my friends. Decided to have some fun with cross stitch while binging Netflix shows. Headed back to see them this weekend and made this for a friend moving into his new place.


Pattern is from https://www.amazon.com/Subversive-Cross-Stitch-Clever-Designs/dp/1576877558/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539214818&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=cross+stitch+book&dpPl=1&dpID=61yIDonIkgL&ref=plSrch

Tried my best to measure with a ruler at work, here's what I found:

• 10.125 (10 1/8) inches total
  
  
• 9.56 inches from end to end of band (not including metal clasp thing)
  
  
• 8.75 inches from end (not including clasp) to biggest hole
  
  
• Just under 6 inches from end (not including clasp) to smallest hole (bonus for small wristed people)
  
  [EDIT]
  Cheap leather hole punch tool if anyone ends up needing to use it, it works well: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NK5VY2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Hfhiub0RM4ZS5
  

You can buy a leather puncher at Hobby Lobby for $20 ($10 if you use a coupon). Here is one for $7 off Amazon. One of the best purchases I've ever made!

Nice work, really well done.

Here is an inexpensive punch I have used for years that works well: SE 7924LP Heavy-Duty Leather Hole Punch Tool, 2.0 - 4.5 mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NK5VY2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_exDxybKCYTQBP

You can get a tankless one .

It runs near constantly and can heat up. They are not ideal, but can do the trick for small jobs. I tend to work on my models for an entire day once a week, so I have one with a 3L tank.

If you got the super cheapie one there for $60 you could get the Badger 105 and you would probably have a little bit left over.

There is also this one. It is cheaper, so I really can’t speak to it’s quality.

How did you make the corners super round?

I'd really like that. My current cards are sharp and pointy.

Aha! Found out.

https://www.amazon.com/Sunstar-Kadomaru-Corner-Cutter-S4765036/dp/B0076FJ7SS

Which opening did you cut with?

Hi all. I was thinking about easing my way into painting by way of brush painting details. I'm just looking for recommendation on brushes and set of paints.

In particular, I've read good reviews about the D'Artisan Shoppe's set - is it worth the price?

I personally use: https://www.amazon.com/DREAME-Illuminated-Jewelers-Magnifier-Antiques/dp/B01DWG89KQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539801468&sr=8-3&keywords=loupe

The bigger lens is mostly useless but the smaller one lets me tell if the tines are even even slightly misaligned and if there is a sharp edge somewhere which is great. You can also watch a comparison vid here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RzfHkJggT7A

It's basically wood burning. You take a sanded piece of wood and then start drawing (burning) with this tool as if you would with paint. Takes some skill, yes, but the most basic of patterns are very easy to do. Then just apply varnish and let it dry.

For anyone else interested in adding this to their Formula rim:

(*note the screen is simply velcroed to the face of the rim so that it can be easily removed and replaced. You still have full access to the setup button and screen.)

Screen: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LAG12DG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Case: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07916HTWY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Velcro: https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Industrial-Fasteners-Professional/dp/B0010HADEA/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=3SDOM935U6TXI&keywords=velcro+strips+with+adhesive+heavy+duty&qid=1567718060&s=automotive&sprefix=velcro%2Cautomotive%2C194&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFINFJRWkE0UjdQUTEmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAwMjYwMzkxRlAyNVBEUDJTWU5YJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA1MjA5NjIxRTZBMko5OEdLUVIwJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

USB to TTL: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014Y1IMNM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Coiled USB: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VUK7IIQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB Extension: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH11PEY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Carbon Fiber Wrap: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0154C6Q74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

SimHub: https://www.simhubdash.com/