Reddit mentions: The best dog training collars

Barking

The trick is not to reward silence after barking, but to shape not barking in the first place. Is your dog reacting to a stimuli? It sounds like he is barking for attention, not as a reaction to a trigger. A better approach would be to shape desired behavior and redirect to a different behavior before rewarding if the dog barks. Try doing place/mat training and focusing on shaping desired behaviors instead of reacting to bad ones. Really focus on offering lots of attention BEFORE the bad behavior starts and set them up on very short duration to practice being quiet (and doing the new desired behavior, like laying on a mat) before reinforcing. If the dog barks, it is very important to completely ignore them (no yelling, no eye contact). In the beginning, you may only offer a simple cue and reward them for doing something ELSE, and use that to build up and add duration to alternative behaviors rather than barking. Simply rewarding NOT barking doesn't teach them what to do instead (the game can easily become "bark then stop to get food"). Try having other people reward the dog randomly with praise, attention or small treats throughout the day. Try to randomize duration and frequency/type of rewards as soon as possible!

It will ALSO be very important to ensure the dog is getting plenty of exercise and stimulation. What is your exercise routine, currently? In addition to daily walks, add in conditioning work and be sure to train new behaviors regularly (tricks, sports, obedience, drill known skills, proof in different situations, etc). You should be spending at least 60-90 minutes every day working and exercising with your dog. JUST walks are usually not enough for a corgi. If you can build up a good routine between desired indoor behavior and plenty of exercise, you will likely see improvement with barking within a few weeks.

Seeing as this is a new dog to you, I'd strongly encourage enrolling in a training class with them and doing at least 2-3 levels of obedience with them, even if your dog know basic obedience already.

There are tips for doing this on the dog training wiki. See :

• Calmness and Relaxation
  
• ABCs of behavior modification
  
• Teach "Go to Bed" with free shaping
  
• Training Basics
  
  
  Waking up routine + Crate problems
  
  This is a routine for her now, so this will likely be the hardest one to work through. You need to do counter conditioning to improve her relationship with her crate and work up to having a good routine around using it at night (and other times during the day). The crate should be a NORMAL routine place, NOT a place for punishment! Never use a crate for 'time out' if the dog already has negative associations with parts of the crate experience! Here is a resource on crate training, you may want to revisit this from the beginning and blend it with place training to help reduce stress/anxiety with the crate.
  
  Ensure she is getting more exercise throughout the day to make it easier for her to sleep. Create a routine about getting up and modify the routine slowly over time to arrive at your final desired behavior. This is really common for training young puppies. An example is : Get up 15 minutes before your dog typically starts barking. Put them on leash. Take them outside on leash. Bring them back inside and put them back to bed (typically back in their crate or back in a controlled area where they sleep). Reward them for laying in bed quietly. Generally you would just let the dog whine and totally ignore them (no eye contact, no speaking, no gestured, nothing), but if you cannot deal with that, you can stay up and use this as an opportunity to work on your quiet alternative behaviors. There are also devices like the manners minder that can be a good tool for these types of scenarios. Over time (think a few weeks of establishing a routine), very gradually start to push back the time you get your dog up by a few minutes. This will take a few months, but is typically how young puppies can be trained to have better morning routines. Management of behavior, shaping of desired behavior, and redirection away from undesired behavior will be key when working through this.
  
  You may be better off starting with group classes at a reputable, positive reinforcement focused training club. Your problems revolve more around a dog lacking manners, routine, boredom, and good ways of asking for what it wants than anything else. A basic obedience course or two will help you build a better working relationship with your dog and likely give you many of the skills you will need to start working through these problems. Your trainer can also help answer questions and give you tips about specific behaviors you are struggling with. Most training classes will range between $80-200 for 4-8 weeks, depending on where you live, who th class is with and the duration of the class.
  
  
  Working through all of this will take time and I recommend breaking up these behaviors into very specific sets of circumstances to work on it. You want to work on changing the dogs reaction to a specific trigger (whatever that trigger is).
  
  Good luck!

The basics (food, leash, collar, dishes, crate) will probably already be taken care of. I'd focus on training and positive dog-kid interaction, because it will set the stage for their relationship. If they're working together then it's easier to commit long term and be responsible, because it's enjoyable.

I guess it depends how much money are you looking to spend.

In the upper ranges, you could pay for a puppy kindergarten class (great for socialization, great for everyone involved).

Or maybe, a manners minder, a very effective training tool.

In the less expensive categories,

What about puzzle toys? They'll keep the puppy mentally stimulated, keep him quiet(er) when left alone, and give your family some peaceful breaks from the chaos. People need to destress too, in order to interact with dogs successfully.

• kong is a classic. Smear some peanut butter on the inside and it's like a puppy pacifier. Or, stuff it with mushy dog food and freeze it for an even longer lasting activity.
  
• JW treat ball is more active and will tire a puppy out. Treat balls are good for feeding kibble at mealtimes (no need to use dishes at every meal!).
  
  Maybe a portable dog water bottle/bowl for long walks? Something like this: gulpy water. That would encourage the idea of exercise and getting out and about, and also the idea that the puppy's well being and safety need to be accounted for.
  
  Books are a good idea too. It depends what his reading level is, and how much he enjoys reading. I wouldn't want to make puppy care tedious or a chore. There's a good training booklist here http://www.reddit.com/r/Dogtraining/wiki/books. If you think those would be a bit too heavy for him, maybe a book of dog trick ideas would be fun.
  
  The sooner kids interact positively with a puppy, the better it will go in the long run. On that note, like flibbertygiblet said, a clicker, treat bag, and a bag of tiny stinky treats would be a great idea. If you go the clicker route, I'd recommend starting with a quiet one, so the puppy doesn't get startled at first. Kids and puppies can be a bit unpredictable, so better safe than sorry. I like the iClick model.
  
  
  

I am currently working with a fear-aggressive dog. The absolute best thing to do is find a positive trainer who is experienced with this. Do not punish the barking, any negative reinforcement will increase the anxiety your dog feels. You want to move her to a distance where she feels safe and have someone come in, give her treats if (and only if she stays calm.) You need to try to find a distance where she is not too aroused. Have a friend come and stand by the door if thats what you need, then once she is calm have them jiggle the door knob, etc. If that is too much you can start by rewarding her for staying calm for noises outside. You can also practice giving her a cue to lie down on her mat before ever having anyone over.

Another helpful trick is "go home" once you get cricket to the point where she is comfortable when people enter if she is far from the door you can train her to go to her mat on cue, so that you can tell her to go to her safe spot when people come over. A relaxed down (stretched or on her side) is even better than sphinx style. She will learn that when people are over and she is on her mat she gets treats, otherwise she gets nothing.

To do this teach her 'down' and then have her lie on her mat. Every time she does this say "good go home!" once she has gotten the cue that "go home" is the same as down when she is on her mat, move two feet away and try again. This will take some patience, she may not understand immediately that "go home" means she needs to go to her mat. Just wait, if you get too frustrated you can move closer. Slowly increase the distance you are from the mat when you tell her "go home." It will help to give her the "go home" cue and then feed her on her mat. My dog gets super excited about it now. It can also help to have the manners minder so you can reward from a distance.

I would also suggest Control Unleashed by Leslie McDevitt. Particularly the "look at that!" game - where you teach your pup that whenever she looks at what she is afraid of she gets a treat.

Another excellent book is On Talking Terms with Dogs: Calming Signals by Turid Ragaas it's a really easy read and a really good introduction to doggy behavior. When dogs get nervous they have a whole range of signals they show to calm themselves down and to tell other dogs (or educated people) that they are nervous. You may see her flick her tongue, yawn, shake, sniff the ground, etc. You should reward these behaviors, since encouraging them will help Cricket stay calm.

Obviously I could go on and on. The main thing is try to make people coming over as good an experience as possible for her so that she becomes less and less afraid. You will also need a reward marker - for instance "Yes!" or preferably a clicker. The idea is you click exactly when she does something good. She lays down click. She yawns click. Yes! is somewhat less precise and it's undesirable to have inflections that she will try to interpret. Obviously teach her what these markers mean before using them in the stressful situation. (click then treat, click treat, Cricket! click when she looks then treat, etc.)

EDIT:

One more thing - be sure to completely ignore her barking. Do not try to comfort her, or give her treats. In fact the best thing to do is have your friend stand there and let her tire herself out. As soon as she stops and takes a breath reward her (a clicker is really useful here.) You can even have the friend move farther away when she stops. The idea is "barking gets you nothing, calm gets you everything." Obviously do your best to limit the times when she triggers, but they will inevitably happen

Good luck!

Oh, and there is a very low traffic dogtraining subreddit where dog nerds like me will be happy to go on long training rants for you any time :-)

He is very handsome! We have a black gap too! Best dog in the world!
If you plan on using an Ecollar these videos are awesome training videos.
https://youtu.be/Wunnt8k0Xmk

This is the e collar we use https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M222EWG/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484757000&sr=1
and it was worth every penny because we can set our dog free in any field available, play fetch wherever, and know 100% that our dog won't be able to run away or get into someone else's yard. It truly is great.

Also teach him tricks in combination with your obedience training. It keeps him interested and you'll have one loyal pup that has a well worked out mind.

Besides that, just love them. Treat them good and they'll treat you good. Best dogs in the world

Good luck!

We feed our husky Taste of the Wild, and she loves it. She didn't have any sensitivity to it and is always ready to eat her kibble. At 50 lbs, it is recommended by the brand and our vet to feed her three times a day.

Make sure you make time to give your new husky lots of exercise! We either take her on walks, or have her play with her puppy friends for an hour.

As for toys, I agree with the previous comments, toys that make noise are quickly dissected and destroyed. The toys with no stuffing are a good idea and if you're going to get tennis balls, make sure they have a rope through them. Long story short, we had a friend who's husky ate the tennis ball; not a pleasant vet visit.

You might want to consider getting your puppy a training collar; not a metal 'choking collar,' but a plastic like this one: http://www.amazon.com/StarMark-Training-Collar-Large-Blue/dp/B000A6BD5K They are meant to simulate an adult dog pinching their neck when they do something wrong. Our husky tends to go after deer on our evening walks, so having this training collar on her helps keep her in check.

Lastly, you might want to consider getting your dog a tracker for their collar. As you might know, husky's can be great escape artists and when they do manage to get out, they will go quite the distance. I'd recommend getting a Tagg (www.tagg.com). Even though we've done our best not to go off leash, she's managed to get away from us a couple times. This system helped us find her in less than 30 minutes.

I hope that helps!

I had a similar problem except the cats in my situation were my other dog, a small, senior toy poodle who didn't like my dobie puppy since the minute I brought him home. The dobie would constantly try to play with the other dog and wasn't picking up any of the clear signals the other dog was sending that he did NOT want to play. It started to get really bad because my older dog is pretty vocal, so there would be constant growling and barking all day long. I bought a vibration/shock collar because a guy at the dog park told me about the great results he got from his and WOW! I never have to use the shock setting at all, I only use the vibrate feature and based on reviews I've read online, many dogs are the same. Anytime the pup got too rough with the older dog, I'd give him a buzz. He learned QUICK, and it only took about a day or two for him to leave the other dog alone. It's like he's a completely different dog now. I'd try that - anytime he starts to chase the cats or show negative attention to them, just give him a buzz. You'll be surprised how effective it is. I know that this isn't 100% positive reinforcement training because it does involve "punishment," but it yields fast results and doesn't hurt the dog in any way. Since getting the collar, my dog has perfect recall, walks on the leash like a champ and is just overall a much better behaved dog. I would sing the praises of this thing of a mountain top if I could! This is the specific model I have and it works great!

I have heard good things about this training club: http://www.sicdtc.org/
They appear not to offer private lessons, but perhaps you could call and see if you can get any kind of referral to a positive reinforcement trainer who will be able to come to your home. Failing that, their basic obedience classes might be enough to help you, particularly because there will be other people in the class, who might participate in reinforcing the no jumping, no mouthing behavior. Is this specific to guests in your home or does she do this with strangers outside as well?

I agree with /u/SuffragettePizza that board and trains are usually at best ineffective (because dogs don't generalize training well as he/she points out) and at worst harmful if the trainers use harsh methods you don't agree with - I would be particularly concerned about this with a muscled larger dog because there is some perception that these types of dogs need to be "forced into submission" and "only shocks and corrections work," etc. If you lose the argument with your dad and absolutely must use a board-and-train, Instinct Dog Training in Harlem uses only positive reinforcement in their board-and-train program. It would be a real trek for you, but I'd hate if you sent Genie elsewhere where they shocked her every time she jumped :(. This could make her go from being over excited to aggressive.

Here are some suggestions for the jumping behavior.

Do not let her practice this behavior. Jumping and mouthing is self-reinforcing so every time she does it, she gets rewarded for it and it becomes more likely that she will repeat this behavior in the future. If you do not wish to train her or work with her when particular guests come over, put her in a different room or contain her in some other way: crate her or tether her to her bed or mat and give her a chew toy to work on while your guests are present. Occasionally give her treats for remaining calm in the presence of guests.

I initially used the Treat and Train, which was specifically invented to reinforce calmness around guests. It's expensive, but not as expensive as several training sessions, and if you follow the dvd's instructions, it really does work, although it's a bit large and clunky and occasionally jams. I believe there are other treat dispensing machines out there so you can do more research into which one is the best one. I would actually pay the $100 just for the dvd that comes with the Treat and Train though because it has some really solid, comprehensive, easy to understand training videos especially tailored for overexcited jumpy dogs.

When you have guests who are able and willing to participate in training, keep her on a leash when they enter and prevent her from jumping on them or mouthing them. Tell your guests to complete ignore her, even turn their back on her, when she jumps and only pet her when she's sitting or lying down. To speed up this process, you can keep a jar of treats by the door and have the guest place the treat on the floor at their feet so Genie is forced to keep her head down to eat the treat as she gets petted. Here is a Kikopup video demonstrating this concept: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lC_OKgQFgzw. Depending on how willing you are to act like a crazy person, you can practice this with one of your family members first to make it easier for Genie so she starts to understand what behavior is expected of her before a real exciting guest arrives. So, like, you could have your dad ring the bell, and then enter and pretend to greet everyone just as a guest would.

Sorry for the novel, hope this helps!

Nice! Thank you for all the advice!

Is there are particular collar you’d recommend?

What about this one?

Dogtra 1900S HANDSFREE Remote Training Collar - 3/4 Mile Range, Waterproof, Rechargeable, Shock, Vibration, Hands Free Remote Controller - Includes PetsTEK Dog Training Clicker

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JL29ZTM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qocxDbW58HJPJ

I like that it’s water proof. We do lots of water stuff. Is 3/4 range enough? That feels kinda short but I don’t know what I’m talking about.

Also, gotcha. That helps a lot with finding a reputable trainer. I never got why people think pets should be fine as a reward, and all dogs should work for just that. Sounds good! I’ll check them out, but I will try to find a trainer in person. I think I need someone that does positive reinforcement mostly, but dabbles in e-collars and other stuff, too.

But I’m curious about how an e-collar training session would go with a trainer? With no deers, cats, etc around, how would we even work on recalling him off them?

I am borrowing a shock collar from a neighbor (her GSD passed away last year) and it is great with my almost year old puppy. I use it for barking but, I know it would work for any other unwanted behavior. It is a Dogtra 200NCP GOLD and was recommended by one of her family members who trains her dogs for agility work. I like it because it has a vibrate button, a "Nick" button and a continuous button (which has a 12 second limit built in for safety). The Nick and continuous can be controlled by level of static so you can give a gentle reminder or turn up the intensity as needed. Even in the throws of a barking frenzy I have not gone past 38 of a scale of 100. That really got my GSD's attention! I did that once. Now with the collar on he does lots better and usually I only have to use the vibrate to get his attention. Now he comes when I use the vibrate and gets lots of praise for not barking and for coming. When I first started using this collar I always (still do, for that matter) used the vibrate before I would use the nick. I figure fair warning is part of the training and that has worked for me. I think this collar is great. I don't know the cost but, have seen others that do not have the vibrate function and they can be pricey. Just checked and the 200NCP in not available anymore. This is recommended as a replacement: http://www.amazon.com/Dogtra-Element-Mile-Training-Collar/dp/B003SA3YUW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1452122673&sr=8-3&keywords=dogtra+200ncp+gold

I hope this helps.

We did so much polite behavior training yesterday. Kirin did downs and sits while waiting for dogs, scooters, etc to pass! We had a funny moment with this guy watching us train and then he joined us for like 5 mins of our walk asking about him and the breed 😂. That was new for me ..

PS my American peeps the treat and train is on SUPER SALE on Amazon. $63+ tax! Ours gets here today which we bought off a friend and I'm so exited to use it for mat work!

PetSafe Treat & Train Manners Minder Remote Reward Dog Trainer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010B8CHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PpDPDbPE2XATX

Does your dog tend to bark more when you aren't around? If so, it might be helpful to record your voices and play that on loop so it seems like you're at home. I was lucky to get a good price on a [Manners Minder] (http://www.amazon.com/Premier-Treat-Remote-Reward-Trainer/dp/B0010B8CHG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409194417&sr=8-1&keywords=manners+minder). Sophia Yin designed it, and it's been great--it's a remote controlled treat dispenser, which helps a lot with "capturing" good behavior. Whenever there are any weird noises or voices, I discreetly press the button, so it actually seems like noises and people = magic treats to my dog. She no longer associates me being around with the treats, since I've been pressing the remote from outside the building also :-).

FWIW--I just moved to a new apartment, and previously it took a month to get my dog used to the new noises and stomping. Our new place is right across the street from some barking window dogs, and after three days of feeding my dog via remote, my dog is pretty calm and hardly responds to sounds.

I use a plastic prong collar on my 5 month old rottie. Like some people said about prongs, as long as it is used properly your puppy should be fine. How I practice her greeting is a bit weird and difficult since I had to ask strangers to help me lol. I would have her in a sit beside me and the stranger would walk towards my pup. If my pup tried to get up I would do a quick pop with the leash and the stranger would have to walk away. If she stayed while the stranger touched her and while the stranger walked 3-4 steps away I would tell her how good she was. Usually I would suggest using strangers since that's the trigger. Btw, I also had to put the collar on every time we did something fun for a week before I even used it. If you have any more questions, just let me know. :) good luck! Btw here's the link to the collar I have.

https://www.amazon.com/StarMark-Training-Collar-Large-Black/dp/B000A6BD5K

I had the exact same problem with our puppy. She would bark as soon as we got out of sight, and we tried the leaving/coming back thing and it really didn't work. If we were in another room of the house, she would bark for HOURS, not just minutes.

We tried everything for months, and finally, I got an automatic treat dispenser. There are a few different ones out there, but the one I got was Manners Minder. A little expensive, but definitely worth it. I put it on top of her crate so that the treats drop in. It has a remote control, so I can control when the treat is given to her, and also has a mode to just dispense treats randomly.

I used this to aid my training. When I went out of sight, I clicked to give her a treat. Then I would randomly keep clicking it while I was away. It took her a couple of days, but she finally realized that good things happen when she's in the crate and I leave the room.

When I leave the house in the morning, I set it to automatically give her treats incrementally. We don't live in an apartment, so it doesn't bother our neighbors, so I have no idea if she barks throughout the day, but I know she doesn't bark anymore when I first walk out of the door.

Also, try doing some basic training. Train the stay command as much as you can. The more he is used to staying in one place not doing anything, the more he will be ok with staying in his crate when you're not there.

But yea, try out an automatic treat dispenser. It was a life saver for us.

I personally love a good cinch collar. Here's one like mine. Make sure you get one several inches longer than necessary, and never actually choke your dog with it. My friends with shephards use one of the pointy-er ones like this.

The technique is to walk at your own pace and as the dog pulls, they receive a negative feedback. When they stop pulling, the negative feedback is removed and the "staying close to you" is reinforced. You can help this by using a corrective-tone "don't pull" type command when they are pulling, and some praise when they walk well.

> He'll quiet when told, but he resumes howling about 1 minute later. I assume he just howls to get the attention, negative or otherwise.

I would use something like a manners minder where you can remotely reinforce. I'd increase the rate of reward to you're rewarding just before he's likely to start howling, and then slowly build that duration up. It helps. :)

I have used an E collar on my golden since he was 7 months old,he is now 16 months.I have had wonderful success with it particularly in his recall.Commands have to be given first,and if there is no response than he gets the "tone" button..generally that works..if it doesnt then he will get a very mild correction and lots of praise when he responds to the command

You can do it by yourself,just make sure to command and praise praise when the command is followed.We use our collar in all areas including off leash,which he is all the time in our backyard.

We use it for such commands as "here" and "leave it' and "drop it" etc.its handy when in the bush and we dont want Fergus rolling in dead things.

Dont spend $$$$ on something when they basically all do the same thing.I use the Petsafe Big Dog remote trainer and it works just fine,it has a 1000 yard range.You can buy it on Amazon.http://www.amazon.com/Petsafe-PDT00-13625-Elite-Remote-Trainer/dp/B007MME0ZK/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1412255606&sr=1-4&keywords=pet+safe

When we introduced the collar to our dog,we put it on and praised him..Then we took him out to the backyard and played with him a bit and gave him a recall command..when he didn't respond immediately ,we pressed the tone button and waited..still no respond and he got a mild correction.He wasnt sure what to make of it at first,but he shook his head and ran over to us and got tons of praise for it.Rarely now do we have to use the correction button as the command itself is enough for him to respond.

If you need more info,just ask

1. This is the one we got after initially using a cheaper one. I would really, really, really recommend not getting a cheaper one like you linked. The more expensive one is 100% worth the money. It's a ton of fun and very reliable. Cheaper collars turn off automatically after a bit, which defeats the instant correction idea. The pain is also much less consistent and starts higher than I am personally comfortable with as a minimum. The one I linked, you can't even feel it until 8 or so (but you can DEFINITELY feel the higher numbers!) so you can really fine tune exactly what you want your sub to feel.
   
   
2. I had my sub wear it with his holy trainer and it was too much bulk around his junk to go about his day. But if it was around the thigh that'd work.
   
   
3. I talked about my own a bit in 1, but I love it! He's an obedient boy but he immediately steps into line when that collar comes on. We've also had some fun games with it too.
   
   
4. Don't let it near the heart. I have read mixed things about the neck, so maybe err on the side of caution for that.
   
   
5. You could have "vibrate" mean "come here". I played a game with my pet to test his tolerance of the higher levels... he laid on his back in bed with a hitachi sleeve around his cock, and the shock collar around his cock and balls. We have a dimmer switch for the hitachi, so can adjust the intensity of the vibrations. He LOVES when I sit on his face so he can lick my ass, so that's where I went. I started him off with some low level shocks, brought the vibrations up a bit, and let him lick my ass. Then I'd raise myself up and lower the vibrations and wait for him to say "More please, Miss!!". Then I sit back down, turn up the vibes, and increase the shock collar a level. I'd shock him intermittently, and a bit heavier when it looked like he was close to cumming. Basically repeat until I let him cum or he won't ask for more (that never happened, but we also have only gotten into the 20s).

We tried the clicker and it was not effective. Honestly what worked for us was a remote vibrate/shock collar. I know it sounds terrible but I am so thankful I went this route. When we took our puppy to training he was a pain in the ass. The teachers alway used me and my dog as the example and talked about how they are stubborn as can be. When training dogs, they suggest using a choke collar to "correct" your dog. However the amount of strength the trainers used to "correct" my dog made me feel very uncomfotable. They would pull so hard all 4 legs would come off the ground, but after that he listened to every command. I did some research after that and discovered these remote zap/vibrate collars for training (The is the one I use, it is fully waterproof with a 3 mile range, I have never had any issues and it has the best power control setting).

When I got them I tested them on my skin to make sure they wouldn't hurt him or anything. I got it to the point where you could barly feel it. This allowed me to gain his attention with-ought excessive for on a choke collar, which I was very happy with. The collar works amazing, after a few times he misbehaved or didn't listen he got that hint that after 2 vibrations came a shock, so he would listen after 1 vibration. This turned him into the most obedient dog every, he was even happier because we could walk him without a leash.

I know this is not typical of all dogs, but this is what worked for me and my Mini Aussie. I am so thankful I found this collar because I would have no been able to take in for walks in public without it.

We keep him in his crate during the day, usually he is only in there for 5 or 6 hours max a day. When he comes out he is ready to play play play so fetch time is a must after work.

For toys, I purchased TONS of real tennis balls from Walmart, a Chuckit Kick Fetch, Frisabee, Bones with marrow from our local deli, and rope toys. His Chuckit Kick Fetch is his favorite!

We bath the dog once a week, usually on days he swims. In the winter not so much, only when we notice him licking himself or if we notice any fleas to keep that under control. We have had a hard time with fleas in the past because his fur is so thick its hard to get rid of them once them have them.

Yeah, it's tough. I love my pup like a first child, craziness and all. We've had a behavioral trainer come in home and help us make some modifications. The best thing we've done is use this:

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Treat-Remote-Reward-Trainer/dp/B0010B8CHG

I can't imagine we paid this much for it, but we might have - being at the end of our rope and all. Basically it's remote controlled so it's super easy when holding a baby. Every time Maybe (our pup) looked at the baby we'd click the remote and it would beep and dispense a treat (we put it AWAY in a corner by her settle mat so she didn't have to get near the baby to get the treat). Then we gradually just started treating her for moving closer, etc.

1. Stuffed moose
   
   
2. IQ Treat Ball (she gets kibble in it)
   
   
3. Kong Wobbler (more kibble)
   
   
4. Treat & Train (still more kibble)
   
   
5. Snuffle mat (have I mentioned kibble?)
   
   So yeah, the only toy that has held her interest despite its inability to dispense food is the stuffed moose. I've actually put all the rest of her toys away in hopes of someday reintroducing them and having them seem novel again.

My Kees used to do this exact thing - when I wasn't home she never barked or fussed but if I was home and she couldn't be near me (i.e. I'm in the bathroom) she acted like she was dying.

I never crated her when I was home except for overnight - I used an extra tall ex pen (the sides were over 4 feet tall) for when I couldn't watch her closely and mostly just let her follow me around the apartment. Even when I went to the bathroom or took a shower she just wanted to hang out next to me - she would just stand outside the shower and rest her head on the side of the tub watching me like a creep.

I used a manners minder to train some of this away - mostly for when my wife and I wanted a bit of time alone. Basically I filled it up with treats and went into my bedroom and shut the door. As I was closing the door (before she could start barking) I released a treat. Then I kept releasing treats as long as she was quiet. I did this for 5 mins, then 10, then longer. Always extending the time between treats and only releasing a treat if she was quiet.
It took several sessions but now she does a lot better being alone in the living room when I'm elsewhere in the apartment.

Happy Zambambo!

And Happy Birthday! And happy everything! I guess!

I will link this, so we can use the vibration to train our deaf dog. <3

We use this Ecollar every day with King. It has levels 1-100 and we normally have it at a 2 for everyday commands. At 2 it's just enough to get their attention but not enough to make them scratch at the collar. You can try it on yourself and at 2 you get a warming sensation. But we also use it to correct bad behavior like food aggression, jumping of the glass door, or barking in the yard.

Example:
We gave King a large ham bone which triggered some animalistic aggression/protection behavior over the bone which carried over to all treats and food. He never had that problem before. King would snap and make contact but never a real bite, but it still hurt. We solved this by turning the collar up to 60 and when he would snap would would tap the button. It took 3-4 tries for him to understand and he never did it again. We call this the "Hot Burner" method, you only touch the hot burner on a stove once because you learn your lesson as a child.


The Ecollar when used and taught properly is an amazing tool that really helps you communicate with your dog. We sent King to a trainer in New Orleans, Pro K9 Solutions, and they taught King for 3 weeks how to use the collar. The trainer recommended Blake Rodriguez if we ever needed videos to watch for training. There is a video on his youtube page that teaches the basics of how to use and train with the Ecollar.


If you have any questions feel free to DM me.

I think this has really been helping with my dog. It doesn't really get hot - just pleasantly warm: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EKL3FTI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Good luck with your cat!

What microphone is your singer using now?

Is your sax player too loud at the source or are techs turning him up too loud in the mains? You mention him being closer too or further from the mic at given times - if it's a mic on a stand, he needs to understand the dynamics himself. A good sax player can use a stand mic to great dynamic effect if they're conscious of it.

> I'm not too sure what could help with getting a more consistent volume from him - maybe a compressor

That is what a compressor is for, but the preferred solution would be to solve it at the source.

> or even just a mic accessory that shields him from getting too close?

here you go

Yes!! He's almost 18 months, and I've only had him since he was around 10 months. We've spent a lot of time re-learning the basics. (sit, stay, down, lay down, DONT POTTY IN THE HOUSE, weird food aggression, leash behavior). Now we're working staying close at the huge parks by our house, not digging, coming when called at the park (he's been so spotty the whole time I've had him). Some days it's exhausting but he's so sweet and loving. He's a really good boy overall.

I have (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078PZC8YG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fkD-Ab0MJ9Z8G)[this one] and it works for me because I'm not a hunter.

Well this doesn't sound like a situation you want to sign a lease on.

So you have two choices- stay and deal with it or leave.

I would suggest that if you choose to stay and deal, you may be able to improve your situation.

Since it sounds like the roommate doesn't give a shit about the dog, start training the dog yourself (obviously ask the roommate first). There are numerous books and gadgets on the subject, but suffice it to say a bag of treats for positive reinforcement and an ultrasonic generator (doesn't work on all dogs) or training collar (think invisible fence but with a remote control) for negative reinforcement, you can do a lot. Reward good behavior, punish bad. Set the dog up to succeed, start with basic sit/stay/go to bed type stuff and work your way up. Buy a training book for better instructions. I don't know if this will get the dog to be compatible with another pet (sounds like its ongoing attention needs aren't being met which means the dog will still have too much energy) but it might make the dog less annoying.

For the roommate, you can train him too (just not with the collar). If you have a problem that needs his help to resolve, offer something in exchange for his speedy attention. IE you'll make/get dinner or do the dishes if he puts the call in immediately. Yeah it's shitty that such a thing is needed, but the place is cheap and if all it takes is some cooking time or a pizza every now and then, just consider it part of the deal.

This is amazing. Thank you so much for the thorough response. I might have to get a front-clip harness, as you suggested.

The shelter had her on a StarMark training collar ("TripleCrown") when I walked her, and she seemed to respond okay to it. I've heard/read mixed things about them, but I bought one to see how it goes. EDIT: reviewing the sidebar again--would this type of collar be considered a prong/pinch collar? I know the idea is to mimic the mother grabbing the scruff of the neck without actually hurting the dog, but again, I'm not really sure. I just want to do what's right for her, and if this is a no-no type of collar, I'm happy to return it.

I also ordered a slip lead (and of course a 6-foot fixed lead).

Is there any reason you'd go with a front-clip harness over a slip lead?

It sounds as if he's getting you trained. lol Dr. Sophia Yin created this awesome remote training device. You may want to try something like this out, to let you be away from him, instead of running down the stairs at his command. :)

> I'd implement a tool to make subtle movements more effective on the dog, such as a prong collar[...]

That's a great way to go. If you don't want to use a metal prong collar just yet, try a Starmark plastic prong collar. Make sure you use a backup collar with it (use the one that's included or you can just combine it with a flat collar).

If your dog plants itself down and lays down refusing to move, you can try sticking your foot (gently) under it's gut to get it to pop up and start moving.

Lastly, check out K9-1's leash ninja video for proper leash handling techniques, along with some gentle but effective corrections to apply once you have a proper training collar on the dog.

My Visla is 7 months old and loves to run, she is off leash trained but I do use a training collar. I don't shock her, just use the vibrate or the beeper and she comes right back to me. I was surprised how easy it was to train her to be off collar, she will chase anything that runs away but a beep from the collar and she comes right back.

http://www.amazon.com/Petrainer-PET998DRB1-Rechargeable-Rainproof-Electronic/dp/B00W6UVROK?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

We got 8 Different varieties in treats. We got the Toy cup poodle sized treats. They are about the size of gerbil poop to be honest. That way you have to give almost the whole bag of it to make them full. So you don't over do it on treats. Dog Door Bells Helps a lot we have had ours almost 2 weeks now. Our GSD is 8 weeks 1 day today. Get lots of Dog toys stuffed animals you are going to need it. Dog clicker if you plan on training him that way. We will be getting this aswell but not for the shock for the vibration only Vibrator Collar Going to train him with that has beeps and vibrates and shock but will not shock him ever I cant bring that to myself. Boxes A lot of boxes our dog loves boxes he plays with boxes more than he does with most of his toys. Empty soda boxes work just aswell.

EDIT: That collar also has a light so if you take him out at night you can always see him and if you take him on night walks he can be seen. Rechargable aswell.

I'm not sure where you are or if this is available, but the treat and train would be a good option too! My trainer recommended it as a separation anxiety trainer, but in the end, my other efforts proved that I didn't need it. She also uses it for other training activities and keeping dogs interested in things.

I've just received the treat and train. I haven't used it yet, but the dvd that comes with it addresses the barking-at-the-door issue using the remote food dispenser. It's a device that beeps and emits treats and it comes with detailed foolproof instructions on how to teach your dog to settle on a mat when someone walks in the door. It might be something to look into if your dog is food motivated.

If you are doing some serious use on a continuous basis, I HIGHLY recommend you go with something like this brand

https://www.amazon.com/SportDOG-Brand-SD-425-FieldTrainer-425/dp/B00A008TFS/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1486408902&sr=1-1&keywords=sportdog

My dogs have used them in the rain/snow/mud/water for a wide range out outdoor activities and they have held up very well. The range is accurate on these and I have used them for loops out to about 400 yards without any lost signals.

I would not say they're cruel (in the right hands!) but i have gone back and forth with using them. I feel your pain as I am a small framed person so I can also get pulled pretty easily. Now that your safety and theirs is in question due to lack of control, a prong may be exactly what you need, even if only a quick fix until after the baby arrives.
consider using one of these https://www.amazon.com/StarMark-Training-Collar-Large-Black/dp/B000A6BD5K
they are plastic and are less harsh and people do not know that they are prong collars, so it may save you some glares from judgmental strangers, which shouldn't matter but it does sometimes!

>since it was on amazon maybe it had a little bit of credibility.

Hmmm

[exhibit 1] (http://www.amazon.com/Cub-Gift-of-Nothing/dp/B002J8VDXE)

exhibit 2

exhibit 3

The defense rests, your Honor.

-)

Honestly if this were my dog I would go in the bathroom, turn on the water, and at the first bark dash out and say "no, quiet" I would do that for a bit then get in the shower, but I would also leave a shower soapy and wet to correct for barking. My dogs aren't allowed to bark ever though. I am pretty crazy about it, but I have to be, I could not have my dogs if they barked. If I had a problem barker I'd get a treat and train so I could reward quiet behavior without leaving the bathroom.

Treat and train https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0010B8CHG
Put the remote in a baggy so it doesn't get wet.

USB Pet Rock is always a winner.

This has got to be the laziest, but most genius purchase I ever made: the Treat & Train treat dispenser. It's not super cheap, but I would pay 3 times the price for what it does! The dispenser can be set to dispense a treat at certain intervals without you having to do anything. So I just sit on the couch, and my dog will wait vigilantly for treats for HOURS. Seriously, if I left the thing on all day, I know he would sit there the whole time. He gets a brain workout from all that vigilance, and I get to do absolutely nothing.

Apologies for delayed response. Just saw this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010B8CHG/ref=asc_df_B0010B8CHG5263719/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B0010B8CHG&linkCode=df0&hvadid=218543830990&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2474541849567432655&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011703&hvtargid=pla-355745058183

It's quite pricey, but was well worth it. Especially considering the amount of treats I would have had to buy, additional trainer or behavioral consult sessions. I have gotten away with just using kibble to get the results I've needed with this device.

I've had a ton of fun with this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W6UVROK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use this this stuff! Hope it can help you.

Gotcha. What about something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Wolfwill-Waterproof-Rechargeable-Operation-Vibration/dp/B07416W5WQ/ref=pd_aw_sbs_199_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07416W5WQ&pd_rd_r=efde1d4d-c742-11e8-8198-7d964bea5356&pd_rd_w=D09ip&pd_rd_wg=Ufck7&pf_rd_i=mobile-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=685e6bbf-3d79-42ad-9a61-73f06dc9a7c7&pf_rd_r=K7ANZ7W5S5MM20GEWAS0&pf_rd_s=mobile-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=K7ANZ7W5S5MM20GEWAS0

Sure, we use the Petrainer PET916 Dog Training Collar.

What is sidewalk surfing?

Ok. I have a schnauzer and she loves to chase balls (ChuckIt) so I have her off leash. It was a real struggle to call her back if she got onto something until I got one of these (https://www.amazon.com/SportDOG-Brand-SD-425-FieldTrainer-425/dp/B00A008TFS/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_199_tr_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=QF7N0SXD48QGEC5EKHQZ)

This is the greatest thing ever. It even comes with a training DVD. I had a couple of other cheap ones but they were crap and failed quickly. This one is built tough and she can even go into water with it. It works like a charm.

Here it is! I hope that it helps! It has a shock setting I just choose not to use it. We stick to the beep and vibration settings.

Petrainer Rechargeable and Rainproof 330 yd Remote Dog Training Collar with Beep, Vibration and Shock Electronic Electric Collar https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00W6UVROK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wfn6AbMZ4BWTC

[Cyber Monday] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W6UVROK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_5dzywbCHDJ1X5) has deals on everything you need to help him out!

Edit: No coffee yet, forgot how to link properly.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00W6UVROK?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

It’s called pet trainer. That’s link for amazon.

This is the one I have been using:

ALTMAN Dog Shock Collar 1000ft Remote Training, Rechargeable and IPX 7 Waterproof with Beep/Vibration/Shock Electric Collar for All Size Dogs

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6T1AHR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_mntHDgoguJtia

I also have used the eCollar with another dog and it worked really good if you need one that has more range (I think it's over a mile range or something crazy). It's just WAY expensive. Too expensive IMO.

Educator ET-300 Mini 1/2 Mile E-Collar Remote Dog Training Collar With Vibration, Tapping Sensation and Pavlovian Stimulation

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007RBDUTS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QFUWzbHNMZ7C3

Wait, this isn't you?

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00W6UVROK?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

One designed for pets is preferable.

New and improved

You could have at least gone with the USB pet rock model.

Move into the 21st century.

How a bout a USB Pet Rock

https://smile.amazon.com/Petrainer-PET998DRB1-Rechargeable-Rainproof-Electronic/dp/B00W6UVROK?ie=UTF8&keywords=shock%20collar&qid=1480470482&ref_=sr_1_3&s=pet-supplies&sr=1-3

I have a Treat and Train It worked through walls for me.

For weird stuff...

USB pet rock

Yodeling pickle

Stress boob

How about these, /u/overlyapologeticguy?

Twice the price and 32k in rank
http://www.amazon.com/ThinkGeek-USB-Pet-Rock/dp/B003DOD0TI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418017868&sr=8-1&keywords=B003DOD0TI

Someone bought one

http://www.amazon.com/ThinkGeek-USB-Pet-Rock/dp/B003DOD0TI

Our Treat n Train Manners Minder arrived today! I'm so excited to try it out!!

Tværtimod. Jeg har faktisk købt sådan to her til mine børn, specifikt for at vænne dem af med at dabbe!

It's a type of pinch collar it looks like. I believe PetSmart sells them. Made by StarMark http://www.amazon.com/StarMark-Training-Collar-Large-Black/dp/B000A6BD5K. On mobile so sorry for ugly link

there are cheap plastic version of choke collars that do not get tangled (and to my experience are slightly less painful (to my arm at least)).
training collar