Reddit mentions: The best door closers

Hey well i was using some pack but basiclly the parts are: arduino uno, rfid scanner (with card) and i use this one to scan nfc devices too it works but it's not very secure because i use only two letter insted od rfids 8.. the display is 16x2 and i used display driver that xonvert screen to just 4 pins insted of 8 (but actually it use some pins down there i thinl dogital or idk but all of normal pins are free) some buttons, ir reciever, 2 rellays one is arduinos and seccond is standard one i just set digitalwrite(HIGH) to the + pin of rellay and - just connect to GND on arduino) and well that's pretty much it.. i got them in serbia so links wouldn't be helpfull but you can find everything by just typing the name in like amazon or ebay etc.. and the box i made out of difuse plastic layer from lcd screen haha and than spray paint it .. UTP cable to connect arduino box with staffs in room annnd i think it's laptop adapter (12V for lock) and than there is part that step down 12v to 5v but my father give me that so i have no idea what is that but you can find it on google it's cheep i guess (for arduino power) and that's it very budget project.. eeh yeah i forgot the main - lock.. it's just electric magnet that i control via relay sinc i cannot install standard pkwered lock (like ones on buildings)

Link - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JERC00S/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1504426101&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=electromagnet&dpPl=1&dpID=41QbTw4wkDL&ref=plSrch soo i got something like this it's cheep and very easy to fit on any door but you can buy standard electric lock if they fit on youre door and then use rellay to control one wier.. ask if you need some help or some more links and sorry for waithing :D

Short version- it's probably cheaper to buy a 2nd robot vacuum, unless you go total DIY route.

Medium version- Unless the hallway is an outside hallway (IE one of the hallway walls is on the outside of the house) you probably aren't wasting any money heating it. If the hallway is surrounded by heated rooms, then the hallway itself won't bleed much heat except maybe through the ceiling and that's probably to another apartment.

Long version: Locking and unlocking doors is fairly easy. Unlatching doors is a bit harder- motorized doorknobs aren't really a common thing so you'd need an electric security strike plate. That would probably require cutting out a lot of the door frame to mount it. Then you have the issue of actually opening and closing the door. It has to open and close with enough force that it pushes the latch through the strike plate, but also should have some safety mechanism so it can't cause any harm to a human or pet. That's one reason why automatic door openers (like you see at the supermarket) are quite expensive- you need a powerful motor but you also need a bunch of sensors to stop the motor before it does any damage. Those things are quite expensive and require custom mounting. They're also fugly- this is the smallest most attractive one I could find and it's $530. You could use something more like an automatic gate opener but that's still $289.

If you were to do this, the DIY route is probably the way to go. The strike plate is easy enough, you can get that on Amazon for $23. That just needs 12vdc to unlock it. The opener is the harder part. You'd probably want something like a long stroke linear actuator. Alternatively you could make something using some gears and stuff- there are a few ways to do that.

But when you put all this together, you are still spending a good amount of money. Even if it's just $100 (which I'd put as the absolute bare minimum for this) how long will it take you to realize $100 worth of energy savings vs just leaving the hallway doors open?

• Electromagnet
  
  
• Exit (emergency) button
  
  If the power goes out, there is no "remaining" anything -- the door is going to be unlocked regardless of what state it was in before. That's where a UPS can be helpful if you're really worried about it. (Keep it locked for 30 minutes, for example.)
  
  
• Here's the electromagnet at the bottom of the door. (Don't mind the mess, need to sweep.)
  
• Here's the electromagnet + exit button at the top of the door. Hold the exit button while opening the door, and the door will always open.
  
  I could have done a better job with the wires, but ehhhhhhh..... It's never going to look awesome, so at that point I was just kind of done. Oh yeah, another reason why I had to give it a little bit of play was because the corner brackets I used aren't exactly 90 degrees; they're more like 88 degrees. So giving it a little bit of spring flexibility made the whole thing a lot more reliable.
  
  Also watch out against using screws that are too long if you're anywhere near the glass. The pane of glass doesn't stop right where the wood begins; they overlap some.

Thank you for not doubting my successes, I don’t think everyone here would have done so.

I agree that all it takes is "one ordinary oopsie" for things to go badly, but that is where responsible owners make a difference.

As a lifelong dog owner you know that not every dog is going to be Lassie, some are going to be reactive and other may even be aggressive in certain situations (and their owners may not even know), but that does not mean the dogs should be put down.

These dogs can thrive with responsible owners and proper training to be great companion dogs and family pets.

Among many other things, a responsible owner will:

• Use reliable, high-quality equipment including collars, leashes, and harnesses
  
• Check his leash/collar/harness for weaknesses and connect the harness to the collar and the harness to the leash. A better description and pictures can be found here
  
• Pass his hand and wrist through the handle/loop of the leash so it can’t just be dropped (people should do this with all dogs)
  
• Use a leash of appropriate length (six foot maximum) and no retractable leashes. I find a six foot leash too long and use a 4-5 foot leash
  
• Install auto-close devices on his doors so kids forgetting to close a door is not an issue
  
• Put himself between his dog and any potential issue
  
  I’ve had reactive dogs pull and lunge and never once has one even been close to getting away from me. Even if the dog “escapes" the harness, the collar is connected to the harness and the harness is connected to the leash which I wrap around my hand and wrist so the dog isn’t going anywhere.
  
  It comes down to responsible owners. I am more concerned about the irresponsible owners in my neighborhood than I am about their dogs who may or may not be reactive/aggressive. In almost all cases a dog can be trained but when it comes to people stupid is forever.

Can you put a door closer such as this on your door (adjust it to close quickly)? https://www.amazon.com/Wright-ProductsV920WH-STANDARD-PNEUMATIC-CLOSER/dp/B000LNPND0/ref=lp_511282_1_3?s=hardware&ie=UTF8&qid=1478568348&sr=1-3


I did that with all of the doors in my house leading outside because I knew some of them would want to go check out the outdoor world (or go back out to live; most of my kits are rescues) which isn't a safe idea by any means around here with all the hungry wildlife.


I have had many cats over the years and currently all but two of my kits are indoor only (one is a sweet outdoor feral barn cat who stays close to the house and isn't interested in coming in) - (the other is indoor/outdoor; not my choice as she was here before I got here but I try to entice her to stay in more than out with lots 'o pettings, etc.).:-)


Some years back I did help "train" my friend's three cats to stay indoors while he was on vacation in another state for a month. Took quite awhile but they eventually tried to get out less and less over time (until Spring when things outside once again start to smell interesting outside). Just a heads up about that Spring thingy.


Its important to be persistent and never let her get out again...I do this "swirling foot trick" when I'm going into their rooms since I don't want them running out. I open the door a little and stick my foot in first and wave it around - they know to back off when they see the foot coming.


They know that the moving foot (needless to say I never kick them) also means they will very soon thereafter get lots of pettings, brushings, perhaps some treats, I talk to them a lot, etc. I guess they consider it a fair tradeoff.;-)

​

Maybe you should google how cable is laid in existing walls, I doesn't seem to me that you think it's possible. I understand that nobody will do it for free, or even cheap, and that someone has to come inspect and certify it afterwards depending on location.

I'm not sure what you mean with your sentence 'And a motor starter.' Do you mean it would have to be a combustion engine that needs a starter? Do you mean a motor controller? If you like I can show the complete hardware and wiring for a setup like this, so that you can build this yourself.

Here is a kit for $655 that does this with buttons instead of the sensor in the hand sanitizer. Even if it was $1000 and it took two people at $20/hr a full working day to install this one in one bathroom kit, it would not be $5000.

Maybe you just didn't properly read what I said.

Like: Prime-Line Products KC10HD Safety Spring Door Closer, 4-1/4 in., Diecast Construction, White, Non-Handed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003DQGEMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4sowzbNGNVX26

Boring but probably the best solution

I know the feeling. Five margaritas in and I'm no closer to my true love. I do, however, have eight birdos that depend on me. So I focus on them and treasure very moment. Get yourself a self-closing door mechanism and do not feel guilt. Birds are curious and get into everything, and we can't be there all the time to supervise them.

I almost lost Sweetie, my Rosy Bourke, because he had carpet fibers cutting off circulation to his toes. Two amputations later, and he is still a great bird, but I always worry when he has outside-the-cage time.

Probably more than you wanted from a random internet stranger, but maybe I'm the hug you need today. 🐤

Landlord here.

Door Closer FS-1306 Automatic Adjustable Closers Grade 3 Spring Hydraulic Auto Door-Closer with Easy Installation Life Size Fitting Template & Instructions Silver Aluminium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0749MCLMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Pp9lDbP54ZG99

Cheap, and easy to install. Now you don’t have to talk to future tenants about slamming the door. Some tenants just don’t give AF.
I just recently ran into this problem also. After I installed it the tenant moved out LOL. Oh well now I don’t have to worry about it.

I ordered one of these for exactly the same sort of thing for an elderly relative's home a few months back. Worked like a charm! (She'd been forgetting to close the back door and then becoming afraid someone was coming in. This was well worth the effort in solving that and giving her peace of mind.)

Edit: I'm unsure what they mean by "lightweight". Might make a difference with your steel door but I doubt it, unless it's a security type door.

I'm thinking that the only option that would not be exposed on the outside is a chain closer. I've not had the pleasure of specifying or installing any of these, but I've seen them on UK fire doors and they seem to work fine, if not as controlled as the traditional hydraulic closer.

Just as an FYI, about 4 years ago I installed a ryobi doorman on a heavily used outside door that gets regularly to -20°F. I did it as a temporary measure thinking it would at least work for the summer, but it is still going strong. It is under a porch-roof, however.

And the screw in that one is correct!

It could be a custom piece. I'd make another, but I have the facilities to do that...
See this version.

It might work, but you'd have to do some customization as it may have too large a base plate.

Also, here is a good Amazon search.

Because you can buy door closers for $20-30 bucks on Amazon? The ones that are replacements for screen doors work great on hollow-core inside doors and they're even cheaper.

I bought mine from a hardware store when I was a teenager and it was $15 then...

Here's a simple idea that's electrical rather than mechanical...

Buy this electromagnetic lock and this power supply and this remote controlled outlet.

The bare wires of the lock easily click into the green plug of the power supply. Then you plug that into the remote controlled outlet.

The two metal parts of the lock magnetize together when electricity is present, and come apart when there's no electricity. The remote toggles electricity on/off.

So you build a box or use an existing door, and mount the two metal parts of the lock to it to secure it.

Players find the remote elsewhere in your game. Then upon clicking the remote they unlock the electromagnetic lock. For greater effect, install a spring in the box so that the box lid flies open upon clicking the remote!

I bought this, it didn't work well for me. The door I was using it on was an outside door and it just didn't have the leverage to close it even though it was fairly strong. Not even that heavy of a door.
For inside doors I am using these: http://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Spring-Closer-Butterfly-68405/dp/B002TC8B30
They work well and don't require holes.

So automatic door hinges, and park a roomba in front of the door. It will close your door and vacuum your office.

In all seriousness, my first thought would be an electromagnet. If you plug it into a smart outlet, you can shutoff power, and the door will close (if you switch to self closing springs.)

https://www.amazon.com/Holding-Electric-Magnetic-Electromagnet-Fail-Safe/dp/B00JERC00S/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=electromagnet&qid=1566215183&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Something like that (although, I would want one that isn't as strong. You don't need that much holding force.)

They aren't that expensive for something like this but who pays is between you two, maybe split it since it helps you both? You don't have to remember to close the door anymore and roommate doesn't have to clean cat pee.

I ordered this relay module online in hopes i could use it to control the electromagnet. Would this work instead of a mosfet. I could solder the 12vDC electromagnet into the 12v adapter wires to power it and the arduino from the same source? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VRUAHLE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this is the magnet i ordered:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JERC00S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Something like this would work:

https://www.amazon.com/Wright-Products-VK333X3-TIE-DOWN-ALUMINUM/dp/B0002YWOM6?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_11

you saved 15 dollars.

Agreed. I installed one of these door closers for $10 from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-KC10HD-Safety-Spring-Closer/dp/B004Q07GNY

How is it opening? A door closer would be a much simpler solution.

https://smile.amazon.com/Prime-Line-KC10HD-Safety-Spring-Closer/dp/B003DQGEMQ/ref=sr_1_5?s=hardware&ie=UTF8&qid=1525885428&sr=1-5&keywords=door+closer

Try something like this, you see them often on screen doors.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000LNPND0/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525721977&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=hydraulic+door+closer&dpPl=1&dpID=31TueyvzSPL&ref=plSrch

I've had bad luck with that one you're showing me...spring broke on two of those I used in my last house...swore I'd never use them again.

I have one of these on my basement door, and it's awesome, but I'm not sure if the closing force would actually allow it to latch all the way due to some weather stripping on the bottom of my kitchen door.

> tapcons

Is it a problem that the brick is on other side of the 2x1? I'm worried that because of the gap and play they'll pull out of the brick from the tension on the closer. it's one that's like this.

Also I won't be able to sink into the concrete grout - because it doesn't line with the top of the door - I have to go into the actual brick. Do the tapcons work equally as well in brick?

I don't know how well this would work but maybe you could fasten bristle weatherstrip to the outside perimeter of the doors. You could paint the frame of the bristle strip to match the door. That would eliminate having to mount stuff directly to your walls and probably be a much cleaner look.

https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Nylon-Door-Bristle-Weatherstrip/dp/B00QL4L3Z0

So get a door closer (I own this cheap thing and it works) and a lockset that is always locked. This will make the door secure every time, for less than $50 and 20 min of your time.

I am not saying don't install cameras, but I do feel you should stop inviting them to enter, too.

I think you'll find that in an HMO as this appears to be. That the tenants are required to be "quiet" after 22:00 or 23:00 until the next morning.

Door slamming maybe resolved by the landlord fitting a door closer such as

Door Closer Size 3 Commercial or Domestic Use HMOs etc. Fire Doors Adjustable Speed BS EN 1154

£15+fitting. The landlord/agency will have a handy man who can come out and fit it cheaply.

http://www.soslocksmith.com/uploads/2013/10/door-closer.jpg

Example of a local version sold on Amazon here

Just so anyone else here knows, if you’re in a room with no lock, use someone’s belt around the door closer and that’ll help make the door harder to open.

My grandparent use one of these.

$3.70
Ultra Spring Door Closer, Butterfly Spring (68405) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002TC8B30/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_I4RJDb6DME7EV

Have I got a product for you. Automatic door closer.