Reddit mentions: The best electrical wall plates & accessories

I have an Ecobee4 thermostat (although Alexa doesn’t work as well for me as I hoped) w/ Ecobee remote sensors mounted in every room. Not only is this great for managing the temp in the house overall, but now I can include temp changes in my automations and geo-fencing.

In addition, although I find them a bit slow to respond when using them as room entry motion sensors, the Ecobee remote sensors are great for automatically turning off the lights when a room is no longer occupied.

I also recently added some non-HomeKit “smarter” switches in my bathroom and laundry room. In the laundry room, I put a simple Lutron (not Caseta) motion sensor switch to auto turn the light on/off when someone comes/goes from the laundry room. Works fantastically, it’s simple, and not too expensive.

In my bathroom, I added three new Lutron (not Caseta) switches.

• 1 is a dimmer w/ motion sensor... I use it for the ceiling fixture to come on automatically at 50% brightness (if the room is dark enough). It also turns the light off automatically.
  
  
• 1 is a fan controller with a built-in timer. This thing is great. I set it to a 30-minute default countdown when turned on. The time can be adjusted from 5-60 minutes. Double tapping the fan switch turns it on until someone turns it off.
  
  
• 1 is a plain switch to control the vanity mirror light bar. Manual on/off... that’s it.
  
  The first two of those switches are far more programmable than I thought... reading the instructions really paid off! :)
  
  The Lutron Claro wall plates are really great as well. They are very clean, simple, and modern looking... and their 2-part design makes it really easy to adjust all your switches for a precision installation (i.e. flush and straight).
  
  In my bedroom, my bedside lamps are controlled by 1 Lutron Caseta lamp dimmer w/ remote. I use the same style Caseta lamp dimmer for a few other standalone lamps... and even used one to automate (just on/off) my outside LED holiday lights last winter (the dimmability of which was fantastic, as they are normally way too bright).
  
  In conclusion, before spending a bunch of money, my advice would be to think carefully about how you/others use certain rooms and if a motion detection switch would suffice or if a more complex automation control is needed. Also... do the math. As others have pointed out, one alternative may be way more cost effective over another when you factor in the number of bulbs and/or switches involved.
  
  One last thing... I am renting a room to a guy who's on a totally different schedule than me and as such, I never knew if he was in his room sleeping or out of the house elsewhere. So... since I had previously added him to my HomeKit household... I use a combination of geofencing with his phone, and the Ecobee motion sensor in his room, to switch on/off a particular lamp when he comes & goes. That way... it's easy for me to know if I need to be quiet, or if I can rock out with my socks out.
  
  *EDIT: Added a bunch of links and more...

For my last birthday, my brother got me this cool lumos light switch. There are lots of options for similar products online and it's a project that you could probably easily make yourself with supplies from a craft/hardware store.

I had a friend give me a wall transfer once that she made with her cricut. It looked something like this and it's been on my wall for ages. Same friend also made me a couple pillows with the same machine that had Dumbledore quotes on them. Imagine this but with "Happiness can be found even in the darkest of places..." on it.

I've also given out an "After Harry Potter" set of books before. For those who read Harry Potter and think "what now?" I'm sure this could be catered to the receiver, but the set I gave my friend had Miss Peregrine's Home for Peculiar Children, Lev Grossman's The Magicians, a printed and spiral bound set of Pottermore writings (or the ones that were available at the time), and The Unofficial Harry Potter Cookbook. I think I had one or two more, it was a couple years ago.

I also handmade a pair of Luna's radish earrings for a friend once. I followed a tutorial online and it was surprisingly easy - just required a pair of earrings, some wire, and a few beads and they looked great.

I guess it all depends on what kind of gift you want to give her. There is a Harry Potter application for just about everything. If your girlfriend doesn't have a lot of the standard merchandise already, you might try just checking out the local bookstore. With the release of Cursed Child, most bookstores in my area now have entire tables dedicated to Harry Potter gear. Last time I was at a Barnes and Noble I walked out with a Marauder's Map blanket. I've been sorely tempted by that 3D Hogwart's puzzle a time or two as well. And when I went on the WB studio tour, I got this really cool wand necklace. It comes in an Ollivander's box, though it is a bit pricey.

Good luck. Happy birthday to the gf!

I keep meaning to do a form response for lighting, because it's really a big issue with no easy solutions.

As tinyhands already said, smart bulbs do need to be kept on. I don't know about LifX, but Hue lights will automatically turn on when the power does - an annoyance when the power flashes off and on, but does allow them to basically work like a normal bulb.

So, solutions to your switch issue....

1. Use a switch guard (product as example only). Cheap, quick, and effective. Also, unsightly. Plus, it disables "manual" control from the wall so not a full solution in itself.
   
   
2. Replace the switches with smart switches, with the "load" wire bypassing the switch. Those will be about $50 a piece. A permanent solution, expensive, requires some electrical knowledge, and frankly redundant with smart bulbs. It also breaks building code in the US (not that anyone, including inspectors, would ever know). It is something many people do, and it does have a certain elegance to it.
   
   
3. Mount new "remotes" over the existing switches by building a frame of moulding around them. A permanent solution, [lot of work,] and moderately expensive. Obviously, you could also combine this with number 1, and just put remotes next to the existing ones. (Or, you can recess the existing switches into the wall, and mount remotes flush with the wall, but it's very difficult, requiring a couple hours per switch. I can provide instructions.)
   
   For smart switches, any - like GE - will work. For remotes, I suggest Lutron Picos, with the Pro Bridge. The bridge is $88, and the remotes are about $12 to $15 each. Lutron also makes smart switches.
   
   Of course, you need to ask yourself why you want smart bulbs. I'm a huge fan of smart bulbs, so not discouraging you from using them, but.... well, do you have reasons for wanting smart bulbs?
   
   Regardless of what solution you use, you will almost certainly need an automation controller.

This is probably obvious...and code now requires it...but make sure all your power lines run to the light switches before the load (ie, have access to a neutral wire). Most of the smart switches/dimmers etc require a neutral wire to operate (ie, they must have power all the time, and they relay the loads).

Since you're framing, now would be the easiest time to do wall-mounted TV Power and "behind the wall" conduits, similar to what this product enables: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009VYDHFQ

I agree with the other posters on the Cat6. I'd create a central hub location/utility closet and then run 2 lines of Cat6 to each room/wall likely to have a TV or computer. I can't speak on the Coax because I don't watch cable tv, but it's cheap enough...so why the hell not. Personally, I'd also run 2 lengths of speaker wire to each room as well (for stereo sound in your ceilings or walls). It's way cheaper to run a whole house music system from a central location via passive speakers than it is to say, buy $2,000-3,000+ in Sonos wireless speakers that could cover the same square footage. I think it's nice to have speakers out of sight and out of the way as well. Even if you don't install speakers, run the wire...it's cheap.

It's also nice to wire some outlets into areas that you think might work well for routers or wireless repeaters so that they can be mounted up high and possibly out of sight...without dangling wires. Even better, install a few of these in between the studs where your TV's, computers, routers, etc might go for super clean setups: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-47605-28W-Structured-Media-Center/dp/B0002472KK. Make sure you wire outlets to the boxes so that all the power wires can stay inside the enclosure...

Personally, I think it would be worthwhile to start thinking, researching and planning exactly what features and gadgets you'd like your home to support NOW so that you can install exactly what you need without wasting materials or time on things you may not need...it also helps to work through certain issues, requirements and logistics while your home is most accessible sans insulation and sheetrock...

>An hour of planning can save you 10 hours of doing. - Dale Carnegie

Assuming you have SmartThings (based on the /r), you can use any Z-wave or Zigbee switch. I've tried multiple (reputable) brands, based on what's on sale, and my experience has been they're all pretty much the same. But all mine look like modern paddle switches, there are other options out there.

It's debatable, but I'd call the 'gold standard' to be the GE switches. I was just providing a link to them in a thread yesterday and noticed they were on sale for $33, which is a damn good price. Looks like they rolled out an updated version so they're discounted, and personally I don't think the upgrades mean much. I just picked up 4 more, because... why not.

When those aren't on sale I've been going to Zooz. I like their small company attitude and they have terrific customer support. And they frequently have sales. You can get them on Amazon, but the sales are on their website.

These are the types of wall plates that I use. Easy to find in single, 2-, 3-, and even 4- gang. I have a custom made 7-gang at my house, so everything I've bought since was done to match that style.

But again, all these are because I wanted modern paddle switches and the "decora" style wall plates. You can get smart switches in traditional rockers, or modern version like the Caseta switches (which still use the decora shape).

First things first, we need to know the actual product you're using. There is no "Ring Pro 2." There is either the Ring Video Doorbell 2 or the Ring Video Doorbell Pro.

They have vastly different power requirements, and one will be doable without much modification and a basic transformer and chime swap (the 2), and the other will be complicated and require modifications, possibly an electrician, and a way to cover them (the Pro).

If it's the 2, you can install a Nutone C915 16VAC@10VA transformer in the box where the AC power comes in (the Nicor box is split into two halves, high and low voltage). Be sure the breaker that powers the doorbell is off first. Then the wires just get swapped like for like to the wires on the back of the new transformer: black to black, white to white, green to green/bare. That would connect to the back of the transformer and it would screw into the high voltage side of the Nicor box.

Then, with the wires leading to the button, you would connect one of them (doesn't matter which) to one of the transformer yellow wires (again it doesn't matter which) with a wire nut and tuck it into the low voltage side of the Nicor box. Then you'll have one button wire and one transformer wire left, and those get connected to a basic mechanical chime. Connect the yellow transformer wire to the trans terminal on the chime, and the other button wire to the front terminal on the chime. Then you mount the chime over the whole Nicor box and new transformer, covering it up, being careful to ensure the yellow wires don't get pinched where they run from the front of the transformer over to the other side of the Nicor box. All the mechanical chimes (per brand) are the same inside, and generally all that's different is the cover. You may need a slightly more expensive chime with a larger cover to completely cover up the transformer and dual box of the Nicor. I recommend going with a Nutone (or Braun, it's the same company) for the chime too. Avoid Hampton Bay and Heath/Zenith, as they're low quality and fail frequently and tend to hum while the battery in the doorbell is charging.

If it's a Doorbell Pro, well, it's not going to be easy. It can't go there and meet code still. The 16VAC@30VA transformer that the Pro requires is way too big for the Nicor box and can't just be mounted in the wall. It would need to be wired somewhere else that meets code and new wires run from it to the existing Nicor location. Not fun or easy or cheap. There are two other options for powering the Pro, though with either you would have no mechanical chime, so you'd have to use a Ring Chime (or Echo devices or the Ring app alerts) to have any sort of notifications at all.

Option 1: Ring sells on their website, not on Amazon, a plug-in transformer for the Pro. It cannot be lengthened or connected to other wiring, you plug it in and run the wire to the Pro, but this will require drilling somewhere to get the wire to the Pro.

Option 2: Replace the Nicor high voltage side with an electrical outlet and buy a cover plate with one blank side (like this) and [one of these plug-in https://smile.amazon.com/MG-ELECTRONICS-MGT1640-TRANSFORMER-40AH/dp/B001DPNQ0M/). You'll also need about 12" of 18ga SOLID NOT STRANDED bell wire. It can be more than 2-stranded if you use thermostat wire, for example, which generally has a sheath on the cable but comes with 2-6 wires depending. Sheathed cable will look better, and if you can find white, even better. Your local home center should have it. You can use just bell wire too, which is generally just two wires twisted together and are different colors, but the sheathed cable will look better. Your local home center will have a variety but make sure it's solid core and 18ga.

You mount the outlet into the high voltage side of the Nicor box. Drill a hole in the blank side of the cover place where it looks nice and is big enough to pass through the wire you're using. Strip both ends of the bell wire to about a half inch. Do the same with the button wires. Attach one of the leads of the wire you're using to one of the button wires with a wire nut. Next take the Pro Power Kit v2 and peel off the tape to expose the bypass mode holes on the long edge opposite the two black wires. (You won't use those black wires. Just leave them there.) Take the other button wire and push it into one of the bypass holes on the power kit and make sure it goes in all the way and tug on it to make sure it's seated and the clamp is biting into the wire. Do the same with the other conductor of the bell wire—insert it into the other bypass hole. Now pass the bell wire through the hole you drilled in the wall plate, and drop the Pro power kit and wiring into the low voltage side of the Nicor box, and affix the cover plate over the outlet and empty space. Connect the bell wire to each of the two outer terminals on the transformer (again doesn't matter which is which, just use the outer terminals if you happen to get a 3-screw model) and tighten the screws. You'll need to remove the screw meant to hold it in place, since your outlet won't have that hole. The orange washer just pulls off and the screw comes right out. Then plug it in, turn on the breaker, wait for the Pro to charge up and indicate it's ready for setup and begin setting it up. Once you know it works, I'd recommend a strip of 3M command adhesive behind the transformer just so it can't fall out since it's heavy and you can't use the mounting screw on that style outlet.

OK, that about covers it, if any of that makes sense to you.

So you would realistically do smart switches instead of having smart bulbs. The only reason I would see to use smart bulbs is because you don't own the property or because you want the ability to change colors of a color lightbulb.

> Do smart switches always keep the smart bulbs powered?

It depends on what you mean by smart switches. You would realistically just use a smart switch like this. The light switch itself would always have power no matter if you turn the light on or off (unless you kill the breaker), so you could control it no matter the state of the light.

Your best bet if you want to continue using the smart bulbs, and not smart switches, is by buying the Philips Hue Dimmer switches. You would still need the power for the light to be on (meaning don't touch it/block it off if needed). They would still be at the mercy of people using the light switch itself.

But, unless you rent or need color control, it doesn't make sense to keep dropping money on this path.

By regular, you mean the small “toggle” switch instead of the large flat “decora” switch? You can find some switch plates that mix and match between the styles but I’m not sure if you’d find one decora flanked by two toggle. You could always switch the toggles to decora as well to get a uniform look. Alternately, since you’re hard wiring the one you’re replacing with the pico you could push it to one side so it was toggle-toggle-decora like this one

The pico itself and its wall mount can go anywhere you put a decora. Hell, since you’re not hooking it to power you could put it anywhere you want! Here is a pico/wall mount bundle (though it’s actually $5 cheaper to buy them separately since you wouldn’t use the wall plate in this bundle in favor of the combo one above.)

Caseta does require a hub called smart bridge pro to integrate with HA, as it speaks its own proprietary wireless protocol. The “pro” part is important, a normal bridge won’t report the pico button presses you need to listen for. You can find them around $70 on eBay. A better deal, if you want/need a dimmer to use elsewhere in the house, is this starter kit (note the pro bridge) that you can find for $110-130 as the dimmer runs $50. The msrp for this is about $200 (and it’s seldom on amazon)

Lmk if you go this route and I can send you a config snippet to translate the pico presses to turn off/dim/change color on hue lights. It also requires a custom component that you use instead of the built in one (though there’s been talk of merging them). It’s super simple, you just grab it and drop it in the custom component directory.

I am using MotionDetector and tasker. I guess it is a little hacky in that is a bit complicated to get it just right but it runs on 3 screens and every now and then if it isn't waking up(maybe one screen every week or so), I just reboot. You can google other peoples instructions but I think this is the clearest. Basically it works like MotionDetector looks for motion and triggers tasker to wake up the display. Nice sensitivity settings and stuff. Doesn't need much light.

I bought 10.5" galaxy s tablets on ebay(2560 x 1600 resolution) for $100-150 and mounted to the wall with these(get the 2.0 like the link). I put in recessed outlets behind the tablets and put a light sensitive night light in one of the outlets plugings so it has back lighting. I also put in the outlets with the usb built in and got the 90 degree angled short cords to make it clean.

I got 3 gang plates with 1 or 2 smart switches each. I'm sure there are 4 gangs out there as well.

3 gang, 2 smart switches: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075MQ7LPN (previously I bought the leviton, but it was too cheap and it cracked)

3 gang, 1 smart switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015APNOC/

Hope that gives you a starting point to search from.

Mostly a gimmick. A fun gimmick, but a gimmick nonetheless. It really depends on what your budget is. Is approx $20/bulb worth it for a novelty? For me, it was in a few places, but I probably wouldn't do it again. The temperature thing is now a must after having the color and the ambient. I hope to never go back to a single temp bulb again. That's worth $15 premium of the ambient over the cheap white ones.

Get the dimmer switches. 100% worth the money. Then put these guards over your current switches.

I have smart bulbs (GE Wink Bulbs) in all my exterior lights that are connected to a Samsung SmartThings Hub. They all turn on a sundown and turn off at sunrise. Works great.

Put these over the switches and I dont mess with them at all: https://www.amazon.com/Light-Switch-Guard-Cover-Plates/dp/B078PPG44X

You can also get smart switches which operate with any bulb and can still be manually turned on/off at the switch without casing any issues with the automation.

Make sure you use the Enerwave dual z-wave relays, and not the Monoprice ones. The Enerwave relays work great with Wink. Lots of reports of issues with the Monoprice ones. I had one explode inside the gang box

Also, if all you want is for the controlled outlet to be the bottom one, then there are a few choices that work with Wink:

• GE z-wave outlet
  
• Enerwave z-wave outlet
  
• Linear/GoControl z-wave outlet
  
  These are cheaper than using the Enerwave z-wave dual relay to make two controlled outlets, although the latter is more useful in many situations.

You should consider a replacement outlet such as: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00JFK1YRE . It looks great and is very easy to replace, even for a novice like me.

Lutron caseta is much simpler than it looks at first. You will need the wireless switch and the wall plate hat matches the number of switches in a location (e.g. a 5-switch install needs 5 switches and 1 5-gang wall plate).

For most people, the switch you want is
LUTRON P-PKG1W-WH Caseta Wireless 600-watt/150-watt Multi-Location In-Wall Dimmer with Pico Remote Control Kit, White
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJY0S4G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_O2YRybNK0JMVR

The single gang wall plate is:
Lutron CW-1-WH 1-Gang Claro Wall Plate (1 Pack), White
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MAW4XE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_F5YRyb2VD4WGE

And you will need one bridge (you can get a bundle of 2 dimmers, 2 picos, and a bridge but that bridge isn't the pro model which you may not need, I got it just in case, but I'm not using any of the additional integration capabilities):
Lutron L-BDGPRO-WH - Smart Bridge Pro
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z8AXQCQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_N-YRyb1VWE0P8

You can also get a plug in dimmer for Lamps which acts as a range extender, and the non-dimmer switch for other devices such as potentially a ceiling fan or lights that just don't need dimming.

Hope that helps!

I think I'm planning a similar project. I'm not sure what to with the power bricks to keep them out of the way. I think you'll be fine, your crown is going to be 7'6" high in the air so keeping them close to the wall with your crown coming off at a 45 degree angle they will probably not be noticeable. Depends on how tall of crown you're using though too.

You should at least think about using a recessed outlet similar to this one.
https://www.amazon.com/Arlington-DVFR2W-1-Recessed-Electrical-Paintable/dp/B002W6ZOR4?th=1

I don't have any experience with this but I'm planning on approaching it the same way as you.

Good luck, post pics when you get it done!

If I am understanding you right, wouldn't a switch "cover" be a better idea? Note: I was able to train my wife and kids to not touch the switches tho :)

Maybe something like this? (Until they learn not to touch)

Light Switch Guard Cover Plates Set of 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078PPG44X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_t4t0Db246MV6P

It'll be a while before I'm back over where it's installed. I'm pretty sure the electrical was a combination of this, which recesses the outlet nicely, and this, which is a high quality outlet with USB ports.

That's the kind, yeah ... but I recall it as being closer to $350 back when I was looking into this (a few years back). I agree, $600 is a pretty hefty price.

The Pyle ones I was talking about are these guys. They're way more affordable ($30-35 per amp, or $45-50 for the Bluetooth variant), especially if you only need a few. Just keep in mind that Pyle is a budget manufacturer.

Also, they're not very attractive to look at with all the connectors and power cable sticking out in front - when I was considering them, I was thinking of mounting them in a recessed wall box to make up for that somewhat.

Get a 2 gang switch plate (or 1 wider than you currently have) and a switch cover/guard. You can install a 2 gang plate on a 1 gang box with the 2nd gang covering the wall a bit. Attach the dimmer to the unused side of the plate. The Hue dimmer comes with tape on the back and will cover the unused screw holes.

This is much easier, MUCH safer if you don't know what you are doing, and will still allow you to turn the power off if you need to.

I've seen people suggest a metal plate with a blank 2nd gang to take advantage of the magnets on the back if the dimmer.

For the switch cover, I'm using a magnetic cover:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002X88GYY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1479335243&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=switch+cover&dpPl=1&dpID=31rKEqw%2BSZL&ref=plSrch

The hue dimmer's base takes up more than 1/2 of the switch plate, so I had to mount it with about a millimeter hanging off the side. Barely noticeable, but next time I'll use something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NCV1SK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479335243&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=switch+cover&dpPl=1&dpID=31HrCmi9fBL&ref=plSrch

Not to state the obvious but this pretty much the main selling point of smart switches instead of smart bulbs.

If you’re renting or otherwise can’t modify the wiring for some reason, some physical “childproof” cover should work - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP9M2FT/

I had one of those mounts that uses the Google power supply and offsets it off the end of the outlet, but I just replaced it with one of these today.

I already had the USB outlets installed and I like it better.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B078JTK838?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

If you get a single wall plate that will help clean it up a bit (very easy DIY).

The electrician definitely had other options for making that smaller and it's too bad they didn't listen to you. They could've used combination two or three switches (although personally I am not crazy about them). Depending on the bathroom layout they also could've put outlet somewhere else more convenient or out of the way. But at this point changing the wiring is a bigger project.

I've done this same thing and love it.

A couple of small issues:

1. There is a slight delay before the light comes on. In truth, the light probably comes on quicker than it would if I reached for the light switch. But since I'm opening the door expecting the light to be on, the delay is noticeable.
   
   
2. I found myself reflexively turning the light off when leaving the closet. I bought some of these switch covers and that has solved that problem.
   
   Even with those issues, I just love this feature.

Curious to hear more specifically what you want to do, because it honestly might just be easier to ask for a Cat5 or Cat6 to be run to the ceiling, which you can then use and adapter to make it USB on both ends and have the AC plugin somewhere remote.

Having a plug mounted up in the ceiling with a cord going in it isnt allowed, and you'd be hard pressed to find a recessed box that is big enough to fit a USB brick, that isnt so big that whatever you're wanting to power wont cover it.

A 1G Arlington Recessed Box is probably your best bet for being big enough to for the adapter and whatever extra USB cord you have, but whatever you are powering probably wont cover the entire outlet.

I haven't done it with a rocker switch, only toggles, but it would work from a technical aspect. The challenge will be getting something strong enough to keep the Aurora stuck to the wall when folks turn it to dim the lights.

Suggest you cover the rocker with something like this:
cover

I've used something like the link below with a standard surge protected outlet (fits whatever outlet you want). Also allows the pass-thru for low voltage, like HDMI on the other side

Legrand - Pass & Seymour TV1LVKITWCC2 Recessed Television Receptacle Box One Gang Low Voltage Kit Easy Install https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009VYDHCY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tUEPDb8QJA2PE

I used this for an outlet most recemtly:
GoControl WO15Z-1 Z-Wave Single Wall Outlet, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JFK1YRE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WW8iybATX7XG4

This is the plug in lamp dimmer module
GE Lighting Lamp Module with Dimmer Control, Z-Wave, Plug-In, White, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMM7E6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2X8iybCTVJ88R

This is the regular switch... Notice this is a "regular" style but you can find it in paddle as well.
GE Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control Smart Toggle Switch, In-Wall, White, 12727 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGOHM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_d08iybB4CY6HZ

If the location is within the same stud it is pretty easy to run a wire behind the wall to a recessed outlet (with a USB jack)

For example:

https://www.amazon.com/Arlington-DVFR3W-1-Recessed-Electrical-Paintable/dp/B002W6ZOR4?th=1&psc=1

This guy did it with a weather display:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/review/B003FMVQAI/R2NKG4A4DGTXXL/ref=cm_cr_dp_mb_rvw_tr?ie=UTF8

You can get an outlet that looks almost normal that is Z-Wave.

GoControl WO15Z-1 Z-Wave Single Wall Outlet, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JFK1YRE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.CLEzb9P7SVJ7

$30, known brand and compatibility with ST, available today.

The Wemo plug ins are getting better looking too.
Wemo Mini Smart Plug, Wi-Fi Enabled, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBI0A6R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SELEzb9ZBAH3N

LOL. Although, that is hilarious, I think a more logical explanation is it's a combination wall plate: [amazon.com/Leviton-80405-W-Combination-Wallplate-Thermoset/
](http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-80405-W-Combination-Wallplate-Thermoset/dp/B00002NAQT/
)

What they did is instead of inserting a power outlet or thermostat control they just said let's just insert 2-light sideways switch.

I use these. They're whiter than the picture and flat, but magnetic so won't hold a hue switch. But they do allow easy removal.
Mitzvah Family Magnetic Switch & Outlet Cover for Flat Modern Switches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002WQ2UBM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8Y2Azb31CFHP1

So, to be fair, this is in a closet and fastened to a high shelf just below the equipment. It' really never in danger of accidental actuation, but it's a good thing to consider. Otherwise, these are good for accidental protection and if I wanted to make real project out of it I could probably hook up a microcontroller to turn on a warning light locally plus somewhere else in the house which was obvious. But, lucklily, my home crew is the reliable sort.

This is the best thing I've bought in years

The USB Cover Plate Mount for Google Home Mini: Custom Built-in Holder and Outlet Wall Mount - Designed in the USA by Mount Genie (White, 1-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078JTK838/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Vh44CbDJN1BZ9

Simple solution to a huge design problem.

We just got done renovating our entire first floor and a lot of things I did myself so I had the opportunity to plan things out and pre-run wires.

For the Play:3, I purchased this receptacle box which holds an electrical outlet and has a small brush plate for low voltage. Had the electrician run the wire for an outlet and I ran the Cat 5 to it. You can see the box to the left of the Play:3 in this photo. Here's a closeup.

For the TV, it's the same concept as the Play:3. I used this recessed TV mount which has four available openings. I've got an electrical outlet and a brush plate in the two bottom openings.

Cable box, ethernet switch, and IR blaster are in the basement. HDMI, Cat 5, and IR receiver wires run from the basement, up through the wall, to the recessed mount. The Playbar's wires are snaked in the wall to the TV mount and through the brush plate. Not exactly to code, but it works. Here's a photo with the TV pulled out where you can see the mount and wires (not winning any /r/cableporn awards).

Here are some neat wall plates I recently discovered that might be of interest to you.

If you need extra wall plates, Amazon has some good ones that look just like the ones from Lutron. Currently, a 10 pack is $17.50.

They also have double gang and larger gang sizes if you need them. I've got about 20 of their double gang plates in my house, and they look nice.

Would probably be better to just get a light switch cover like this, and put the Hue Dimmer on top of that, or get a 2-gang cover and put the Hue Dimmer next to it.

Also, I'm pretty sure the Hue products do not require an internet connection, but at least a LAN connection for the Bridge to speak with your phone. The Hue Dimmer and Hue Tap communicate directly to the Bridge, which then communicates to the bulbs, so no internet connection needed there either.

Super cool!
I use these (but obviously they're not as fun lol):
Mitzvah Family Magnetic Switch & Outlet Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002WQ2UBM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8JIfAbYBWKB1W

The Flux component is configurable to adjust brightness over a certain time period. If the bulbs are turned off and then back on, the flux update event will be called in the next cycle and bring the lights to where they need to be (default update cycle is 1 min).

Are you trying to keep the family from manually turning off the switch? Maybe cover them up using a switch cover and a Hue dimmer:

• https://amazon.com/Mitzvah-Family-Magnetic-Switch-Switches/dp/B002WQ2UBM/
  
• https://amazon.com/Light-Switch-Guard-Cover-Plates/dp/B078PPG44X/
  
• https://amazon.com/Philips-Smart-Dimmer-Switch-Remote/dp/B07DGGYWJ9
  
  You may also want to consider the Lutron Aurora dimmer when it gets released - it fits on top of an existing toggle switch, locking it in place and allows for control of Hue bulbs:
  
  
• http://www.lutron.com/en-us/products/pages/standalonecontrols/dimmers-switches/smartbulbdimmer/overview.aspx

I've got the flat rocker switches in my apartment and I found these magnetic covers on Amazon that look discreet and can be easily removed any time. They also have ones for flip switches like yours.

Magnetic Switch & Outlet Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002WQ2UBM/

I can’t help you with switching scenes, but these covers help keep kids, guests, and spouses from de-powering my hue lights.

Magnetic Switch & Outlett Cover for Toggle Switches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002X88GYY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KH2eAb3V23DAC

You could always literally remove the switch entirely. You could research the hows and figure it out.

Barring that, get the kind of trinket dish that people use for their dresser detritus and superglue it over the top.

There's also these https://smile.amazon.com/Mitzvah-Family-Magnetic-Switch-Switches/dp/B002WQ2UBM/ref=sr_1_25?keywords=wall+switch+cover&qid=1571603710&sr=8-25 which would probably work great. They're magnetized and stick to the screws. (Superglue is also an option on these if your SO still doesn't pay attention.)

Things do exist, like this brushed plate, where wires (for sensors or speakers) can come though, but it still looks clean. Many mount them high for in wall speaker installation.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Listed-VCE-2-Pack-Single-Brush/dp/B071X8RLJL

​

There are also ones with generic holes you can use too: https://www.amazon.com/VCE-Single-Connector-Subwoofer-Port-White/dp/B074T6Q11V/

As said, don't dim them. Store the knob and leave it at full brightness. Cover it with a sabbath cover for safety.

These are the best thing ever.

Magnetic Switch & Outlett Cover for Toggle Switches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002X88GYY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ktQbBbQP1SKZ3

I am interested in 3D printing something like this. I'm thinking somewhere between this:http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1543169 and this:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WQ2UBM/ref=s9_simh_gw_g60_i4_r?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=VTT91RHXYDNZ72W1SPV4&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=6aad23bd-3035-4a40-b691-0eefb1a18396&pf_rd_i=desktop

(ie magnetically attached to the decora faceplate screws, with enough depth to accomodate the rocker switch, which will allow me to mount the OEM Hue dimmer mount)

The device in your picture is called a 3-gang plate.

My solution when I needed to do this in my home was to get a Samsung Smartthings hub. It's compatible with Alexa plus a ton of other stuff so it's a sensible purchase. I highly recommend it.

Once you have Smartthings, you can get any z-wave or zigbee devices and they can be controlled either through the Smartthings app or through Alexa.

GE Z-Wave switches: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035YRCR2/

3-Gang Paddle plate:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000V2UMU/

Someone needs to make a smart switch cover that replaces the cover on a decora style light switch instead of the current options of replacing the switch or hiding it and sticking a second switch on the wall next to the original.

There are purpose-built switch covers for both trditional and Decora style switches, that attach using the existing (or extended) screws on the wall plate. I've used covers like these in several rooms quite successfully.

Just get one of these

It's nice to be able to change a light bulb without having a live socket. A functioning switch is better than a breaker for doing that.

As to what you are trying, what you said you did should have worked. My gut says you pulled something loose in the box. Are there any other wire nuts with pigtails in the box? Getting a voltage tester would help you see what wires are actually hot.

> I don’t need the lower half of it though, but for the life of me I can’t find anything like what I’m imagining should exist.

What do you mean you don't need the lower half? That's how those kits work. The reality is that "in wall" extension cords don't exist, so you would need the kit you've linked to do what you want without adding an outlet.

That being said, if you don't want to use the kit you've linked and you don't want to add an outlet, just run an extension cord and use these plates. It's not code to run an extension cord in the wall, but your house won't burn down as long as you use a properly rated one.

You need 3 gang plate but since your only going to be using 2 gang. Use this plate, this switch blank. Left switch left alone, center change to switch blank, right smart switch size opening. Sorry, but I didn’t search down the links in light almond or ivory (I can’t tell from the pic which color you have), but this is the concept you need.

Alternatively you could change the left switch to decora style, use a decora switch blank in the middle, and smart switch on the right, with a 3-gang decora plate.

Again sorry that I got you all white link (it was faster) but whichever route you take you’ll be able to get the components in the correct color.

That would work, but I was thinking something a little easier to install: https://www.amazon.com/Switch-protects-lights-circuits-accidentally/dp/B06XP9M2FT/ref=sr_1_9?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1536608373&sr=1-9&keywords=switch+cover.

if it's just a 2 wire switch you can wire nut it and blanket off

but the easier option would just get switch protectors

White Switch Plate Cover Guard Keeps Light Switch ON or Off Protects Your Lights or Circuits from Accidentally Being Turned on or Off. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP9M2FT/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_yh-ADbT6NH58F

Just run a long wire through the wall. From computer to monitor. You can use wall plates like this https://www.amazon.com/Listed-VCE-2-Pack-Single-Brush/dp/B071X8RLJL/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1536469420&sr=1-3&keywords=pass+through+wall+plate&dpID=412EFMUa-uL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

https://www.amazon.com/DataComm-45-0001-WH-1-Gang-Recessed-Voltage/dp/B001C4BEOY/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1536469420&sr=1-4&keywords=pass%2Bthrough%2Bwall%2Bplate&th=1

​

​

Not that I'm aware of. Your best bet would be to get a light switch plate that has an additional switch slot or something like this and a lightswitch cover. Put the double plate over the single switch, stick the switch cover over the switch in the ON position, and use the hue dimmer's sticky mount on the blank switch area.

It's a couple extra bucks, but won't leave any marks when all taken down.

Crude Mockup

If it is a switch you can tape half of a disposable cup to it with the opening facing the top to prevent him from touching it. Or get a guard like this.

I've used this for both of my wall mount TVs. If you're comfortable running the wiring, it's the way to go - the outlet is a surge suppressor. Just get a cable wall plate for the bottom to feed cables to receiver and you're all set.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009VYDHFQ/

Hue dimmer switches have magnets to stick to the dimmer wallplate, so sure, get a light switch cover, add magnets to it then you're in business.

It won't look elegant and the cover can easily be removed taking he Hue dimmer with it, however.

Something like this perhaps?

YBM Home Magnetic Switch & Outlet Cover (Cover Modern Switches #1006) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YW6KQHK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_oNSPzbSNEXHV0

Easy, buy this https://www.amazon.com/Switch-Protects-Lights-Circuits-Accidentally/dp/B06XP9M2FT/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541447968&sr=8-3&keywords=switch+guard

Didn't even think about this before! Do you know of any that have a regular switch for the light then a timer for the fan? The ones I can find just seem have one switch/timer.

Edit: Found it!

This +
this

For the switch plate, you can simply swap it out with something like this.

Yes, the switches could have been placed wherever you liked, but now that the wall is closed up it's too late. You would need to re-run the wires to the location you want the switch to be located.

the only thing you actually need a recessed outlet for the power. for the hdmi cable, or even several cables, a flush mounted brush plate will work just as well as a recessed one, even for the thinnest tv mounts you can buy.

that being said, your HDMI and your electrical may be coming out of the same location, so if your going to go double gang, might as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Bryant-Electric-RR1512W-Connection-Tamper-Resistant/dp/B013GFQ3QA/



https://www.amazon.com/Seymour-TV1WTVSSWCC2-Recessed-Television-Installation/dp/B009VYDHFQ/

https://www.amazon.com/Datacomm-45-0031-WH-Recessed-Voltage-Receptacle/dp/B004GZ89N0/

I'd recommend https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XP9M2FT?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

It's what we use over our switch that controls the 1 exterior smart bulb. You CA quickly and easily take it off with nothing but a butter knife.

Duct tape will probably leave adhesive residue.

I have the same issue so i went with the following:

1 x Lutron Connected Bulb remote

1 x Cree Connected Light bulb

1 x Lutron PICO-WBX-ADAPT Pico Wallplate Bracket

1 x Lutron Claro Wall Plate

I leave the light permanently "on", and removed the chain. The bulb is controlled by the remote, which i then put on the wall outside the storage closet so it looks just like a normal light switch for the room.

All up, about $50, no wiring needed, looks like it is meant to be there, and best thing, if you end up expanding your Home Automation with a hub, the remote talks to Wink (although Wink are having trouble with the cree connected bulb lately. The remote also works with GE link bulbs, but you need a Wink hub for that to work.

A switch guard is the easiest way:

https://www.amazon.com/Switch-protects-lights-circuits-accidentally/dp/B06XP9M2FT

FWIW, I talked with the electrician about that. You could:

• use a deep-recessed outlet
  
• a power outlet with USB
  
• a special USB cord with a 90 degree plug so that it fits behind the Dot
  
  However, the diameter of the Dot is less than that of the power outlet, so you'd be able to see the recessed outlet behind the Dot.

Yes, one sec, they are used in Jewish houses

Edit: example
Magnetic Switch & Outlett Cover for Toggle Switches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002X88GYY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wyqKDbVB1YP7D

I just mounted the hue dimmer switch next to the switch, and placed one of these over the switch itself:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002X88GYY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The end result doesn't look nearly as clean however.

That's a fair point however, they do sell faceplates that locks the switch in the "on" position. See link Below:

https://www.amazon.ca/Lisols-Mind-Switch-Guards-Security/dp/B07RBTMG78/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=light+switch+lock&qid=1574436143&sr=8-7

In case anyone else finds this helpful, the two light switch guards I am considering are this one and also this one.

If anyone is interested in a custom 3D printed holder for the Hue Dimmer that can go over a regular switch (acts like a guard but holds the dimmer as well), let me know and as soon as he has worked out the design I will have him upload the program files (or he can print and ship one to you).

I'm in the exact same situation as you with neutral wires. Light bulbs have been great, I just have to make sure I have the doors, windows and motion sensors are working correctly to turn the lights on and off so I don't have people in my house turning the switch off and making the bulb useless. Once to get it working I use these so the switch doesn't get messed with by guests but if a battery dies in a sensor the switch can be got to.

You could use a box like this one to mount it in:

https://www.amazon.com/Arlington-DVFR1W-1-Recessed-Electrical-Mounting/dp/B002W6ZOR4

Possibly something like this would be appropriate. Inexpensive and simple. Magnetic Switch & Outlett Cover for Toggle Switches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002X88GYY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_d2ERAbR54HQAG

Anddddddd I think I just found the solution.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP9M2FT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_22-yDb5MV2TNP

Just try one, with the dimmer cranked all the way up. If they're ok, install these to keep power to the bulb.

I have one of these covering a lightswitch http://www.amazon.com/Mitzvah-Family-Magnetic-Switch-Switches/dp/B002WQ2UBM/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1453928941&sr=8-6&keywords=switch+cover

and then a hue dimmer switch mounted right next to it. That setup works well.

this outlet works well enough, and I swap out the brush part for a light switch.

A bit more mundane, but you can order these covers from Amazon;

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YW6KQHK/

I can't find the USB adapter in the 3rd pic of this Google Home Mini mount anywhere on it's own, so it might be worth it to buy one of those plates for it, then use it for the next version of your plate.

I just installed one of these in my front porch light fixture yesterday! Powers a v2 no problem at all. Note that this device is fairly wide so may not fit in every light fixture. It’s pretty tight in mine, to the point that I’m going to install a right angle USB adapter. Also, it obviously adds some to the height of the bulb so it may not work well in shorter fixtures.

Had to get a little creative routing the USB cable but overall I’m pleased with the setup. I leave the wall switch on 24x7x375 and use a dusk to dawn bulb. If you’re worried about accidentally turning off the switch, you can install little covers like these - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP9M2FT

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XP9M2FT

I bought those and put them on the switches. Cleaner look than tape.

Something like this is what I used to stop my mother in law from turning off the switch.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP9M2FT

If you want your switch to have a more "finished" appearance, get a pico wallplate bracket, a claro wall plate, and then a caseta lamp module.

Depending on how your current lightswitch is configured, you may be able to use a two gang wallplate on your current switch and the new switch.

Light switch cover (I also need this)

Have your front door area decorated as Platform 9¾

Have different rooms as House common rooms

Laminate or otherwise reinforce this and place in your front garden

Cushion covers

Looking at this stuff is making me want it all.

Low tech solution
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002WQ2UBM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_p3bkDbNK2GC1W

https://www.amazon.com/Switch-Protects-Lights-Circuits-Accidentally/dp/B06XP9M2FT

I had a buddy 3D Print a handful of these for me.

https://www.amazon.com/Switch-Protects-Lights-Circuits-Accidentally/dp/B06XP9M2FT

https://www.amazon.com/Mitzvah-Family-Magnetic-Switch-Switches/dp/B002WQ2UBM/

I think you’re looking for one of these


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RBTMG78/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HlQwDbZDYQM0R

I covered all of my switches with these

It's enough for me to remember not to switch them, for my guests to realize they probably shouldn't switch them, but for me or guests to be able to do so if necessary.

or this... Magnetic Switch & Outlet Cover

This is the light switch style: https://www.maxximastyle.com/electrical/single-pole-duplex-toggle-combination-light-switch-white-wall-plates-included-2-pack-MEW-SC200W-02?gclid=CjwKCAjwsIbpBRBNEiwAZF8-z7sGh1G-YgOcPITi6PhcCYKkZEalgBV6cwH7uMPPNsYSsDa89KJOcRoCf8MQAvD_BwE

This is the switch guard I have on the others: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078PPG44X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_muOiDbPSFM4JE

https://www.amazon.com/Switch-protects-lights-circuits-accidentally/dp/B06XP9M2FT/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1517699357&sr=8-1&keywords=light+switch+blocker

https://www.amazon.com/Switch-Protects-Lights-Circuits-Accidentally/dp/B06XP9M2FT
https://www.amazon.com/slp/switch-guard/sog5o5kwrvya7hq
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:69806
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:134995
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1308378

YBM Home Magnetic Switch & Outlet Cover, White (MF1006) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YW6KQHK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QCAFDbKNFM2C9

They make them for all different types of switches

These are another option depending on what kind of switches you have. We have a couple of these at our house.

Oh! Gotcha, someone else mentioned the sabbath covers, that would actually be a really slick idea. Check this out here:
https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Switch-Outlet-Switches-1006/dp/B00YW6KQHK/ref=pd_sim_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00YW6KQHK&pd_rd_r=4EVR9391FKMXCHYCK08Z&pd_rd_w=XGoId&pd_rd_wg=BbdUY&psc=1&refRID=4EVR9391FKMXCHYCK08Z

https://www.amazon.com/Mitzvah-Family-Magnetic-Switch-Switches/dp/B002WQ2UBM

You could get some of these:https://www.amazon.com/Switch-Protects-Lights-Circuits-Accidentally/dp/B06XP9M2FT/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B06XP9M2FT&pd_rd_r=28848c2c-dd1f-11e8-a3d1-552a6c0f9979&pd_rd_w=ChFCN&pd_rd_wg=FVCwE&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=6725dbd6-9917-451d-beba-16af7874e407&pf_rd_r=1W59ZG85B8TV0NDGQE0N&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=1W59ZG85B8TV0NDGQE0N

https://www.amazon.com/Mitzvah-Family-Magnetic-Switch-Switches/dp/B002WQ2UBM/

Mitzvah Family Magnetic Switch & Outlet Cover for Flat Modern Switches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002WQ2UBM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rE2WBbZ082DR7

And....? Scroll down and look at what other people also bought. You'll find this switch plate.

Check out these
https://www.cableorganizer.com/arlington-industries/wire-bushings/
Or
https://www.amazon.com/Listed-VCE-2-Pack-Single-Brush/dp/B071X8RLJL/

They do make them for rockers

https://www.amazon.com/Mitzvah-Family-Magnetic-Switch-Switches/dp/B002WQ2UBM/ref=pd_sim_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002WQ2UBM&pd_rd_r=GA01KK5FP3K9W5C0DCQ6&pd_rd_w=RwYaz&pd_rd_wg=ubIpx&psc=1&refRID=GA01KK5FP3K9W5C0DCQ6&dpID=31wRs%252BqGc2L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail


And this style

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0147PQIGI/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B0147PQIGI&pd_rd_wg=YN4mO&pd_rd_r=QQ92VGQECEWAAFR0ZV1C&pd_rd_w=vRVYY

Get one of these and put it over a switch

Its been posted already, but I have these all through my apartment. Then a Dimmer switch mounted right next to them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002X88GYY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have almost my entire first floor done and I'm using these until I can get the switches.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002X88GYY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1453585516&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=magnetic+switch+cover

Link

Yes.

Medium-tech solution: a (http://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Switch-Outlett-Toggle-Switches/dp/B002X88GYY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1345355011&sr=8-2&keywords=Switch+cover)[switch cover] like this one.

Low-tech solution: Change the texture of the "bad" switch in whatever way would be enough for you to feel but not visible enough to bother you--a few scratched lines, a sticker, a piece of sandpaper.

I just use these:

White Switch Plate Cover Guard Keeps Light Switch ON or Off Protects Your Lights or Circuits from Accidentally Being Turned on or Off. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP9M2FT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2avDCbS9KW9JM

For a rental with these switches this is what you need

Mitzvah Family Magnetic Switch & Outlet Cover for Flat Modern Switches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002WQ2UBM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zcTbBbF4NCZVE

Edit: perhaps not. Didn't notice the European style. Sorry I got nothing

I just installed my wall mount tablet using an amazon fire hd 10. I started with my wink hub and found this app called home habit which is the only dashboard type app that integates with wink. I have now setup a raspberry pi 3 b+ running hassio and will work on some of those customizations

I linked below everything i used for the install. The wall mount comes with a slim line usb charger built in but also comes with other power options included.

Let me know your thoughts

recessed usb outlet and mounted tablet

the only recessed outlet box that lets you use a usb outlet

3d printed tablet mount

Yup, you cut a pair of holes in the wall. If you want to throw money at the problem, you can install something like this to get both power and a spot for cabling up there. Or if you're handy, you can install your own outlet and just get some brush plates for your HDMI etc.

No. You would probably have to replace the box with a deeper box.

USB outlets are typically not compact, because they have 120VAC to 5DC transformer in them. they are already typically a tight squeeze in an existing box.

Here is an 'old work' recessed box .

https://www.amazon.com/Arlington-DVFR1W-1-Recessed-Electrical-Mounting/dp/B002W6ZOR4

The other option is use right angle usb connectors.

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-VCZHS-USB3-0-Converter-Female/dp/B01G8H7I44

​

​

Or just get an outlet with the USB charger built into it so there is no brick, then 3D print the outlet cover with an integrated pi case?

This kind of idea.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078JTK838/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kqoXCbN0X3M21

It’s low-tech but I’m planning on something like this:
Light Switch Guard Cover Plates Set of 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078PPG44X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_T3b2BbW9PRR0R

That way it’ll keep us from turning off the lights on accident but if we need to manually do anything it’s not a total pain (turning off breakers, etc).

In my bathroom with the motion sensor set to low light in the middle of the night I know there will be times I will need full light (kid sick or whatever) and flipping switch off and back on will be easier than grabbing my phone.

Also allows grandparents etc who are visiting to use things the “normal” way if they want / need.