I know its a lot, so please bear with me and I'm sorry for the wall of text. I have an idea of what I want, but first what im looking for in a headset;

Budget - 100 is my limit unless theyre REALLY good for my specific needs.


Source - LG phone, MP3 player, Desktop Computer, Laptop

Isolation - Preferably yes, if it can block out most things id be happy. I plan to use them at home, and if i can on the bus, public, but not much or nothing extreme like working out or running. My house however has a lot of sounds going on around it.

Preferred type of headphone - Full size, but I'm ok if they aren't, i am however looking for one with a mic or where i can attach a mic. If it doesn't have one well ill just need to find a mic as well.

Tonal balance - Honestly, I don't know, I love bass, but sometimes in certain things bass is too much and prefer balance or where i can hear all instruments.


Past Headphones - Philips SHE3590BK/10 (15 dollar), Creative Fatal1ty(got em when I just didn't care but now I do)

Music type - I like any kind, ranging from Rap, Metal, alternative, Pop, Dubstep, Trap, grunge, electric to Classical, smooth jazz, Big Band, Instrumental, Orchestral, Swing, Ska. I dont discriminate. But I do like listening to every instrument in a song, and i love a good bass.

Location just in case: Cali.

Prefer not to buy a AMP/Dac, at the moment money is tight.


I need headphones that are good for gaming/listening to the music i posted/movies, action, thrillers, horror, etc.
I know its a lot so its hard to pinpoint a tone as well as me being very inexperienced in Audio.

I also wear glasses, so some may not be too good for me and I might use them for long sessions.

Based on links provided by this sub and my own research here are some I've been looking at and have my interest with reasons as to why(based on just reviews and that guide and personal):

• [Creative Aurvana Live!] (http://www.amazon.com/Creative-EF0060-Aurvana-Live-Headphones/dp/B000ZJZ7OA/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1346741568&sr=1-1&keywords=creative+aurvana+live) I read it has good bass, good for gaming, and good all around. However the noise leakage pointed out is a bit of a problem, but I don't know how bad it is. If it had a mic that'd be great, but the price is great. However if theres a better headset that someone could recommend I'd love to know.
  
  
• [Audio-Technica ATH-M50S] (http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M50-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B000ULAP4U/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1346741797&sr=1-1&keywords=ath-m50) I have seen a lot of great review on this everywhere, but are they good for me? In the guide posted for gaming headphones it was stated that it wasn't very well for gaming. The price is also fairly higher than what i can get for others.
  
  
• [NuForce HP-800] (https://www.nuforce.com/index.php?option=com_k2&view=item&id=311:nh-800&Itemid=194)
  I don't particularly know enough but it did look good considering it has good bass. and faily ok with gaming.
  
  
• [SkullCandy Slyr] (http://www.skullcandy.com/shop/gaming/slyr?icid=245) Great all around, low price, mic, and i love the multiple cables. But im not sure how these go up against better brands and other headphones.
  
  
• [Sony MDR7506] (http://www.amazon.com/Sony-MDR7506-Professional-Diaphragm-Headphone/dp/B000AJIF4E) It's really well liked and often said its great, price is good. But I don't know much or enough about em to compare with others.
  
  
• [Audio-Technica ATH-AD700X] (http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-AD700X-Audiophile-Open-Air-Headphones/dp/B009S332TQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1385979471&sr=1-2&keywords=ad700) that price doe..a little too high, but if i can find a sale for them i wouldnt mind. The comfort was rated low, and I dont know how this would go with me, also bass was low. but for gaming they look great.
  
  And last but not least...please don't kill me...
  
  
  
• [SkullCandy Crusher] (http://www.amazon.com/Skullcandy-Crusher-Over-Ear-Headphones-Amplifier/dp/B00E1CSEMO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1397118298&sr=1-1&keywords=skullcandy+crushers) i found these at 80 in another store, and they look fairly nice, but I don't know enough about them. I do know, theyre popular and in some places unliked. I read the bass is great and its a nice gimmick they have, but is it really worth it..also has a small mic, which i dont know how good it is.
  
  I know there are many options and I'm open to any other suggestions.
  
  
  I game a lot, and listen to all sorts of music depending on my moods which are variant throughout the day, but I also love a good film score and bass on certain music. I also would like a mic with it.
  
  Thank you for reading all of it, if you did.
  Sorry for all the info that might be useless. I just want the right pair of headphones, its ok if they don't come with a mic but if they did that would be great.
  
  Please tell me if I'm wrong about something I said about the headphones and please tell me why the headphones are good. I try to do my own research but I'm having less and less time.
  
  Please, help! And thanks again.

No sound cards are not a great investment.

A good pair of headphones is the main source of good quality audio.
Headphones and headsets are 2 different things.

• Headphones = no microphone.
  
• Headset = with microphone.
  
  Adding a microphone to a headphone makes it a headset, it generally increases the price but also often equals in worse audio quality.
  Also most "gaming headsets" are terrible. Razer, SteelSeries, Corsair, Logitech, etc..
  So most people that know anything about good quality audio, always recommend a headphone with a separate microphone.
  There are a few exceptions for decent / good quality headsets. I will list them down below
  
  ---
  
  Your motherboard actually got good on-board sound. So you won't see a big improvement when you get a sound card.
  this long video talks about sound card myths. No need to listen to everything, but I would say the first 8 minutes are fairly okay and good to know. This should make you turn away from sound cards.
  
  Good sound absolutely starts with a good pair of headphones (or headset).
  If you buy a $500 sound card or $2000 DAC/AMP and use a $15 amazon basics headphone, it will not sound amazing at all. Sure it will probably sound a bit better, but I hope that you'll get my point.
  
  "budget" quality headphones generally start around the $100 mark. With the slightly better ones hovering around the $120-200 mark and above this you can find some awesome stuff, but also some pretty.. not amazing stuff.
  
  Audio is also very different for every person.
  First off all; what music, games, movies do you listen to / watch?
  A hardcore, drum&bass music style, action game/movie type of person will prefer a much different pair of headphones compared to..
  A classical, rock, metal music style, MMO/adventure games/movie type of person.
  
  Some people prefer bass, while others rather prefer clear mids (vocals) and highs.
  So I can't pick out a headphone/headset for you until I know what you prefer.
  
  ---
  
  

  A couple of solid gaming headsets:
  

  
  

  Model|Review|Price
  

  ----|:----|:----
  

1. Kingston HyperX Cloud | Review | $76/78
   
2. Sennheiser PC G4me One | Review | $150 (Price went down a lot!)
   
3. Logitech G633 | Review| $120
   
   ---
   
   

   A couple of amazing headphones:
   

   
   

   Model|Review|Price
   

   ----|:----|:----
   Sennheiser HD518 | Review A bit more bass. | $69 This is a steal..
   Sennheiser HD558 | Review More balanced | $94 Also a steal..
   AKG K240 semi-open | Review | $69
   AKG K240 MK II open | Review | $109
   Audio Technica AD700x | Review | $100
   
   These are all amazing headphones as well as headsets.
   
   Headsets:
   I listed them in order, this would be my picking order if I was forced to decide between a headset.
   Note that the Kingston Cloud got different color options. The Cloud Pro is the exact same headset but black and red.
   The Cloud II got somewhat the same color options. Black & red, Black & grey, White & pink.
   The difference between the Cloud I & II is 7.1 virtual audio. This is a feature I personally never really recommend. You have 2 ears, when you place a headphone on your head you'll have 2 positions where sound comes from. Your brain actually is very cool and complex.
   If you've got some earbuds or a 2.0 headset/headphone.. Listen to this virtual barber shop & close your eyes! This sound clip is amazing and also a bit educational.
   
   Headphones:
   I personally am a fan of Sennheiser, because the music that I listen too works very well with these headphones. I've got the HD598s.
   But Audio-Technica, Beyerdynamic, AKG & a few other brands are also capable of making very high quality headphones.
   Honestly, I can talk a lot about headphones here, but I will spare you this.
   
   Here is a great source list with awesome headphones. The # numbers behind the short explanation gives you a review.
   
   ---
   
   ####Sound cards / DAC&AMPs:
   
   As the video explained in the above video. Sound cards is something you want to avoid.
   When you want to increase the audio quality. We have to start spending a bit of money.
   
   

• Sound cards, DAC & AMPs explained
  
  A external DAC/AMP (Digital to Analog Convertor / Amplifier) is the next step into great quality sound!
  
  My currently favorite company for DACs & AMPs is Schiit. Yes that really is their name. Their Schiit is bananas!
  They are absolutely not the only good audio guys in the industry. But I just love them. They're a small start-up company that started over on head-fi. The website I used a lot for reviews.
  
  Their entry level DAC/AMP combo will cost you about $240. The Schiit Stack. They've upgraded and revised this stack a couple of times already since the review. They're now selling the Uber 2 versions, which costs $150 each. I hope to be able to actually obtain this stack this year.. I hoped to get it in 2015, but well.. I don't schiit money sadly xD.
  But yes, I know that this is expensive. Luckily this company created a less expensive DAC/AMP combined unit.
  The Schiit ..Fulla. Yes their naming is hilarious, please reverse the brand + model name when you refer to this product!
  It's an impressive device and will destroy ALL sound cards that you can pretty much get. Here is a detailed review.
  
  ---
  
  Gosh, sorry for the bomb of information again!
  Hopefully this answered your questions.

Not sure if this is the best place to ask (or I should start a post) but I have a list of laptops that seem to be great deals for the specs that they're carrying. Just having a tough time deciding. They range from USD 1000~1600. There's one ASUS that could get as low as 1030 for a GTX1080 but the responses to it have not been so good. Just wanted some good advice on which ones I should get and ones I should be more concerned about. At least I hope others will find this list useful.

• *Sager/Prostar Clevo w 9th gen i7 + RTX 2060 for $1299 - 500GB ssd, 16gb RAM, 144hz (no gsync but eh)Probably the most tempting laptop. It's seems super cheap for a RTX 2060; might be the best bang for the buck laptop out there. But some others seem good enough and a bit cheaper such as the Helios and ASUS w AMD. Anyone think the extra $300 over 1660ti laptops is worth for this? I feel like this one I could use for a good three years before changing set up. That it'll last a bit longer. Any drawbacks with Sager/Prostar from anyone else's experience?
  
• Acer Helios 300 for $1088 - GTX1660ti; 144hz; 16GB DDR4; 256gb PCIe NVMe SSDMost affordable and well regarded option but I'm not sure abut the 256gb ssd. The higher storage ones cost a few hundred more but they were only a bit more expensive a few days ago. I like playing FIFA, Witcher 3, Metro, TW3K and some relatively newer games. Just not sure if the 256gb ssd is enough. Might have to constantly install and uninstall. The price-tag is really hard to resist, though. But maybe it's worth spending a bit more on the Sager with better storage and graphics card.
  
• ASUS ROG Strix GL702VI for $1100 but through some discounts I can get to as low as $1039; i5-7200HQ; GTX1080; G-Sync (but 60Hz); 256gb SSD + 1TB HDDThis seems like an amazing deal. But the responses have been mixed. But a $1k laptop with gtx 1080 that will last about a year or two seem too good to be true. A bit suss but hella cheap. But again... for the lowest pricetag, a gtx 1080 that will last me a year or two.
  
• ASUS w AMD Ryzen 7 + GTX 1660 ti for $1134Seems like another cheap good deal. But are ASUS laptops just not that well regarded? A lot of mixed reviews. But I like the design, the thinness. Plus it has a good entry graphics card.
  
• ASUS ROG Zephyrus for $1311 - This one has a GTX 1070, 7th gen i7, 16gb ram, and 256gb ssd. Once again, ASUS isn't well received in amazon. This one's a bit more expensive than the Sager/Prostar. But I like the slim design and the GPU cards should be more or less equal, right?
  
• ASUS ROG Strix Hero II for $1372 - 8th gen i7, RTX 2060, 16 GB RAM, 521gb PCIe SSD
  
• Acer Helios 300 for $1384 - Only difference is bigger storage, 512 gbs this time. Same GTX 1660 ti and everything else. Considering there are cheaper laptops with seemingly better specs, maybe not worth the extra $300? Plus the others around this range seem to offer better bang for the buck.
  
• Acer Helios 500 for $1400 - AMD Ryzen 7 2700, Radeon RX Vega 56; Vega 56 seems like a really good card. But should I be considering this when there are rtx 2060 n gtx 1080 laptops available for cheaper or around the same price?
  
• Sager RTX 2070 for $1499 - Seems like a great deal for a 2070 card. But might still be pretty pricey for me. Yet considering some of the others, for value, this seems really good
  
• Acer Triton 700 for $1502.49 - GTX 1080 w G-Sync 120Hz, 512GB SSD. Again, like teh Sager, this seems like an amazing deal for the card and monitor. Only drawback I see is the trackpad
  
• ASUS ROG Zephyrus GX501 for $1549 - GTX1080 w 144Hz G-Sync, 16 GB RAM, 512GB SSD, 8th gen i7Similar price range as the previous two. I like the Zephyrus design better but that's really about it. But like the other ASUS laptops, it has mixed responses.
  
  Just for reference, I bought my previous laptop (now blue screened and unusable) four years ago. I wasn't (and still am not) very tech savvy so I wasn’t sure if it was a good gaming laptop back then. But these are the specs for my ASUS A501U: 6th gen i7; GTX 950M; 126gb ssd + 500gb hdd. I'm sure any one of these laptops will be great compared to my mingy 950M.
  
  Which one of these would you guys recommend? Thoughts on how black friday might change the price? Should I wait for BF or just get one sooner?

Here, have an upgrade guide. This is mostly oriented for gaming, but I tried to make it as general purpose as possible.

First off, if you're trying to survive gaming on an older system and are wanting to upgrade, remember to check out the PC Gaming Wiki as well as the Low Spec Gamer YouTube channel and /r/lowendgaming. There are lots of tips and tricks to get games running better, and if you discover your own, don't forget to share them!

• If you have a motherboard older than DDR3, save and upgrade to a new platform. It's not worth investing in a platform that old for anything other than novelty purposes.
  
  
• If you want to upgrade your motherboard (like if you're looking at buying an unlocked CPU but have a locked motherboard), save and build a whole new system, unless you happen to come across exactly what you want for cheap. Used motherboards are usually just as expensive as new ones so it's not really worth investing that much into an older platform.
  
  
• If you have an Intel motherboard and want to upgrade your CPU, see my reply to this comment. Character limit, woo!
  
  
• If you have an AMD motherboard, I'm not as experienced with this but upgrading to an 8320 or 8350 Black edition would be good.
  
• I'll do some research and put some detailed information here later; like I did for Intel processors. Again, after the aforementioned good night's rest.
  
  
• When buying any used processor, especially on eBay, be very wary of scams. Any price that seems too good to be true or is from a seller with very little feedback is something of which you should be very wary.
  
  
• If you have less than 8GB of RAM, buy a 2x4GB kit. Dual channel actually makes a difference these days. If you want more, well, divide the amount you want by the number of slots you have. 16GB / 4 slots = 4GB sticks, so get a 4x4GB kit. PCPartPicker is a good resource for this, although new DDR3 is getting more expensive. It might be worth looking at the used market, but be careful you don't buy ECC RAM (server memory) unless you have a motherboard and processor that support it.
  
  
• If your system isn't using an SSD as its boot drive, buy an SSD and reinstall your OS onto it. I don't know if I can recommend a SSD smaller than 250GB considering how cheap they're getting. Brand doesn't matter a whole lot but make sure to do a little research first. PCPartPicker, again, is a great resource for this. Filter by the minimum capacity you want and sort by lowest price, then go from there. Samsung is expensive but reliable; I don't know a lot about other brands.
  
  
• If you're running out of space, 2TB HDDs are pretty cheap and reliable these days. Here's a Seagate one, although I couldn't find Western Digital's equivalent for some reason.
  
  
• I don't really know much about graphics cards other than they're hard to buy new these days. If you buy new, I can't recommend anything with less than 4GB of VRAM, because modern games are getting better at using it. If you buy used, try not to go less than 2GB. Other than that, pick what fits your budget and performance needs, and remember you dont have to run everything on max settings. Dropping the settings a little can allow older cards to still compete today. I still run a 7870 and haven't found any unplayable games yet; 99% of games I get a solid 60, and once I upgrade to an e3-1240v3 that's in the mail I expect that to go to 99.9%.
  
  
• Make sure you have a good PSU. You can get really solid ones for $50 or less these days. Don't forget this one when upgrading your system, unless you already have a good PSU. This is the SeaSonic one I've been recommending a lot. Fully modular and 80 Plus Bronze seems pretty good to me. PSUs are a topic of a lot of controversy, though, so make sure to do your research.
  
  
• Similarly, investing in a case you like will last you a long time and significantly improve a build's appearance. Not its frames, though, so this isn't a priority. Pick one with all the features you want, good cable management options, something you don't mind looking at, that kind of stuff. Look up a review (google "[case name] review") where someone builds a computer in it so you can get an idea of what kind of issues people run into when building in it and if those issues are dealbreakers for you.
  
  
• Optical drives aren't really used this day but if you don't have one it can be worth it to pick one up. Blu-ray drives are getting cheaper, too. PCPartPicker -> optical drives -> filter by features -> sort by price.
  
  
• Monitors I cant speak much on, but if you're gaming at all, get one that goes at least 120hz at its native resolution, and don't get one lower than 1080p. If you don't do any gaming, make sure you get an IPS panel. I personally can't recommend any resolution other than 1080p (1920x1080) because compatibility issues are annoying and most software is either designed to work at 1080p, or have workarounds to run at 1080p. 4k is the next jump worth taking since that seems to be the next big standard (again, in my opinion), but hardware is still a generation or two out from that being mainstream.
  
  
• Multiple monitors are a thing. I don't think I can live with less than 3 monitors again. It's so nice to have a game on the center monitor, a webpage on the left, and a voip program on the right. You can kind of do this with window snapping, but, well, you can also do that with 3 monitors for much more information when you need it.
  
  
• Invest in good network gear. I cannot stress this enough. It will cost a chunk of money but will make your life so much better. If you're renting a modem from your ISP, or your modem/router has your ISP's logo on it, you need to upgrade. I'm currently running the Netgear R7000. If you're on cable internet, get a Motorola SurfBoard and something like the R7000. If you're on DSL, there's a variant that has a phone jack for dialing in. If you have fiber, the ONT that you have isn't replaceable but it's probably fine (but you'll still want to replace the included router). For all of these, you'll probably need to look up a guide on switching and it will probably involve calling your ISP. Expect to spend $200ish on the equipment, but seriously, you won't be constantly rebooting your router, wondering why the WiFi isn't working this time, etc. And a good modem will let you know if it can contact the network or not so you'll know if the internet is actually out or not. And if you're renting a router, you'll save money in the long run.
  
  
• If you're using WiFi, get a good network card. I saw this one linked on this subreddit the other day and it looks pretty good. I've personally found USB WiFi dongles unreliable, but YMMV.
  
  
• Don't forget to upgrade your peripherals. Check out /r/mechanicalkeyboards, /r/steamcontroller (it's about more than just the Steam Controller there, the name is a little misleading TBH), and the YouTube channel Rocket Jump Ninja (he does mouse reviews). I think /r/emulation has had some good threads on controllers, too. There's fun stuff like Mayflash adapters for GameCube controllers, or you could pick up a bluetooth dongle for a DualShock 3 or DualShock 4 (or WiiMote passthrough in Dolphin). There's lots of fun to be had in the peripheral department.
  
  I think that's about everything. Let me know if I missed anything and I'll include it.
  
  edit: Updated some stuff and tried to include more details.

EDIT: I put main points in bold so that people can skim through this and get the gist of what I'm saying here. Very long post, so I thought it would be merciful to do so.
 

Alrighty, this may be long so buckle up and get ready for a journey.
 

I don't consider myself a hardcore audiophile or an expert in turntables/records, so I did some research when I was first looking to purchase one. I was originally looking at a Crosley record player but was soon warned about how notoriously evil they are -- by the way, DO NOT GET A CROSLEY, THEY ARE TERRIBLE!!! They are notorious for putting too much pressure on vinyls with their needles and end up scratching, carving, and ruining perfectly good records (for reference, ideal tracking force is two grams while the Crosley applies five grams tracking force). The parts are cheap and outdated and the player itself is extremely unstable and will skip if there's any sort of vibrational disturbance nearby. It's not good at all.
 

That said, I want to make sure you know what exactly you're getting into right now. When you buy a turntable, there are other things you need to buy along with it to make it function correctly. I don't know whether you're planning to get a turntable just as a gift that only your SO will use or if it's something you both will use, but it's important nonetheless to know what exactly a turntable requires to work properly. See, when people buy a turntable, a lot of people don't realize that there are three things that are needed alongside it: a pre-amp; an amplifier; and speakers. Speakers is obvious, sure, and of course you'll need something to control the volume, but a lot of people I've talked to only thought about that kind of stuff after purchasing their turntable.
 

The reason why these things are important is because most turntables rely on an electrical current in order to transmit vinyl to audio, but the current the turntable generates on its own doesn't matter if there's nothing to turn that current into sound. Think of it like a secret code. The vinyl is the coded message, and the turntable is the tool that deciphers the code. It can't decipher the code without the correct key, though; a preamp is like the key. It takes that current the turntable generates and amplifies it so that the signal is strong enough to be decoded by the amplifier. The amplifier is what actually turns it into the sound format, and is how you control volume as well. The speakers project the deciphered sound that you get to hear and enjoy. If you only plan on buying a turntable, then you don't need to worry about these things. Otherwise, keep reading; I'm finally getting to the point so please bear with me after this terrible analogy. :P
 

It's a lot to take into consideration when buying a turntable; when I did my research, I found that the Audio Technica LP series was pretty reliable. It's not exactly ultra high-end, but it's a great starting point for beginning collectors. There are two ATLP record players, the 60 and the 120, and some other variants that I'm not really aware of. I personally use the 120 because I thought it was funny being able to mess with the pitch settings on it, and I like the extended options the 120 has over the 60. This is just a comparison between both the 60 and 120 below if you're interested in the Audio Technica LP series:
 

In Favor of the 120:

• the LP60 is a belt-drive turntable which means that you'll be replacing a belt in the turn table if it breaks, whereas the LP120 is direct drive and there's no broken belts to worry about replacing
  
  
• the stylus is also a better quality in the 120, but I don't know from experience whether this is true in comparison to the 60
  
  
• the 120 is also sturdier than the 60 as well
   
  
  In Favor of the 60:
  
  
• the LP60 is smaller and more portable than the 120, as the 120 is kind of bulky and heavy
  
  
• the LP60 is cheaper than the 120 (Amazon says that the 60 is about $100 while the 120 is about $300. I recommend the 60 as the best way to start listening to vinyl over the 120 as it's less of a financial commitment than the 120 is, especially if you turn out not to like records. not meaning to be negative but it's something to consider, as well
  
  
• the LP60 has less options, but the options on the 120 don't usually matter to people who are just getting into vinyl so that's more of a personal preference
   
  
  Something in the favor of both players, though: they both come with built-in preamps, so you won't have to worry about buying one of those. Some people don't like the sound quality of the built-in preamp, but I think it's fine and it really isn't something to worry about as a beginner. The amp and speakers matter a bit more.
   
  
  When I went to go find a good amp, I made the mistake of going to Best Buy. Never go to Best Buy. It's a nightmare. The guy I talked to about amplifiers promptly directed us to home sound systems that cost over $1,000 in price. I found one on Amazon for $39. Not only does it work with my turntable, it's also bluetooth so you can stream from your phone if you want to as well (I'll link it right here so you can see it). I only set the amplifier up to half volume and it fills the entire room. I thought it was a miracle how I was seeing all of these huge ass home systems and then I get this little tiny ant of an amplifier and it does just as well.
   
  
  Now, onto speakers. You should think about the speakers the same way as I described the amp. The biggest, most ultra high-end stuff is just not worth it when you're starting out. I use Micca MB42 Bookshelf Speakers, which are amazing (the link is here). It's also $60 on Amazon, so you'll be saving money there, too. Oh, and you'll need speaker wire, which is $11 on Amazon as well.
   
  
  The total amount of money I spent on my system was $400 (it's really $399 but I rounded up), including the Audio Technica LP120, the mini amp, and the bookshelf speakers. If you get the LP60, you'd only be spending $200 ($199 but again rounded up). My setup and recommendations aren't the most top-of-the-line stuff, sure, but this is all I can recommend to you as this is all I've ever really used. It sounds great and I wouldn't really change it for anything.
   
  
  I'm so sorry this is such a long read, but I went through a lot figuring this out the hard way. I got my turntable as a gift along with those speakers, but then found out that I also needed to buy an amp to actually be able to make my whole setup work, and it spawned a two week-long horror show of trying to figure out what kind of amp to get. I feel like getting a turntable or really anything on such a scale as this should be a momentous and memorable occasion to cherish forever, and shouldn't be tainted by having to go through the ringer just to get one missing piece of the puzzle. I am also a music lover and feel your first foray into vinyl shouldn't be associated with high costs but rather being able to experience it for the first time and marveling in its strangely magical quality. It's a great gesture, especially towards an SO.
   
  
  Now I might be over-exaggerating a bit throughout this whole thing, but I think what you're trying to do is very sweet and I thought it would be good to take it seriously. Also, reading long posts like this can be exhausting, so I thought it'd be easier to get through if I did over-exaggerate and make it a more interesting read. Thanks for reading, and I hope your SO appreciates the gift. :)

I know you said you are from india but If you want take advantage of black friday’s sales then I would recommend this Acer Predator Helios 300 2019 version because it comes with everything you need, great value for money, 144Hz screen which is great for fast paced games, easily upgradeable, Latest CPU and GPU, Very good heat management, and here is a more detailed review :

• The top of the laptop plus the keyboard and palm area are metal.
  
• Screen bright enough for using outside in the shade but not in direct sunlight.
  
• GPU is powerful.
  
• Here is benchmark for the GPU performance.
  
• Laptop comes with Optimus to conserve battery.
  
• Keyboard is great, quiet, and have a nice feel.
  
• Keyboard has a numpad but narrower than the rest of the keyboard, and the arrow buttons shifted.
  
• Speakers are at the bottom and kinda muffed so a headset is recommended for when you are gaming.
  
  ***
  
  If you prefer better screen quality, then I would recommend this Eluktronics mech g2 because it has great combination between value for money, weight, battery life, and performance.
  
• It comes with GTX 1660Ti GPU, You can check the below link to see how the GTX 1660Ti
  
• GPU (scroll down for the FPs and settings expected or ctrl+f then type the name of your game).
  https://www.notebookcheck.net/NVIDIA-GeForce-GTX-1660-Ti-Laptop-Graphics-Card.386426.0.html
  
• Comes with 9th gen, i7 hexa core CPU which is powerful for your usage.
  
• Very good sRGB coverage which is suitable for photo editing.
  
  
• The outer shell is made almost entirely out of metal.
  
• Keyboard is mechanical with RGB backlit.
  
• It has 3 USB type A, Ethernet, and mic and headphone jack and on the back an HDMI, and USB type C.
  
  
• Screen is IPS with 144Hz refresh rate, with impressively small bezels, and a professional design.
  
  
• Lid can't be open with one hand.
  
  
• Fans get loud under intensive work, but that is normal with every good gaming laptop.
  
  
• Plenty of upgrade options as the chassis supports up to 32GB of ram, and 2 SSDs and 1 HDD.
  
• Heat management is great, it can get hot but it gets cool again pretty quickly once the fans kick in.
  
  
• Main con of the laptop is the trackpad, it is mediocre at best when you compare it to other laptops in the price range.
  
  
• Battery life during normal usage is around 3.5-4.5 hours and 1.5 hour during gaming.
  
  
• Speakers are down facing so during gaming, it is best to wear headphone since the fan gets loud during gaming as well.
  
  If you are looking for more Black Friday Deals make sure to check my mega thread of black friday laptop deals here

Ooh yes. Finally a reason to get out of bed and go over to my computer.

How would I recommend setting up a system like this? I'll tell ya.

Amazon echo. They just the other day released what is called the Echo Input and I think it is there specifically for what you need, since you didn't specify a budget besides 'affordably priced.'

In the Amazon Alexa app, you can create what is called an "Amazon Multi-Room Music Group" which allows you to "play music and media simultaneously across multiple Alexa devices" (I put it in quotes because I read it right from the app on my phone).

So what I recommend is getting one of those for everywhere you want a pair of speakers. Next, buy this extremely high quality cable. That isn't sarcasm. That thing is great. Alright on to an amp. SMSL SA-36A will get bookshelf speakers to a good listening volume in pretty much any room. If you have a really big room, you can get a slightly more powerful one, the SMSL SA-50. I buy mine open box on ebay, but it looks like they are sold out right now. Keep an eye on that listing. I've bought from there and they go in and out of stock regularly. However, I think you would be fine without that, and the SMSL SA36A will be just fine for ya.

So, "affordably priced" speakers. Let's go.

$60 - Micca MB42. These are pretty good cheap speakers. I recommend the slight upgrade to MB42X

$80 - Micca MB42X. These are a little upgrade over the MB42s. They have a crossover that makes them sound better, and they have magnetic grills, which is pretty cool. Makes them look nicer IMO, but that doesn't particularly matter.

$130 - Fluance SX6W. These things are big. and have plenty of bass. Bigger woofer than the Miccas, so naturally they go lower.

$200 - Fluance Signature Series. If you want beautiful speakers, get these. I mean, just look at them. Wow. Anyways, they also have forward facing ports, so they'll be fine if you need to put them up against a wall.

$250 - Elac B6. They're nice speakers, and they look pretty okay as well.

$350 - Wharfdale Diamond 220. These things have it all. Great sounding, really cool covers, and are beautiful. I mean, they're stunning to listen to and to look at.

$goungAllOut - Buchardt has a really good price to performance ratio. Price is a lot though.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Oh, and I almost forgot. If your budget is a bit higher, rather than getting the SMSL amp and that echo thingy, Amazon just came out with a BEAUTIFUL amp that works with alexa too. So there's that.

Feel free to message me or reply if you have any other questions.

Dang, I should really be an amazon associate haha.

Not OP, but I very much enjoy the sound of the HD600's. super easy to listen to and not harsh at all. Kind of expensive, since you need an aplifier to get the best sound of them, which just adds to the price. I have a few recommendations for under 150 dollar headphones.

If you're looking for some great open back headphones, I recommend the AD-700X. Very open, with an airy sound. I enjoy them the most for vocals. not much bass, however. I also really enjoy these for gaming. the design of them is a odd for headphones so they might not be the best fit for your head.

Another option is the SHP9500. also open and similar to the HD600's in that they handle almost all music well. Can't really complain on how they handle most things, except for maybe bass heavy music. All around good headphones. Super comfortable to wear too.

If you want some closed headphones, I recommend the DT-770's 80 Ohm. not as easy to drive as the 32 Ohm version, but still should be fine with almost anything. If you plan on getting an amp, get the 250 Ohm version. I love these because the bass response is absolutely fantastic. If you enjoy EDM, hiphop, or any genre that is bass heavy, these are a no brianer. these have fantastic sub bass that doesn't muddy up the vocals. Maybe not the best for all genre types, as the higher frequencies can be fatiguing for some people.

If you're looking for a AMP to start off with, I recommend the FiiO E10K. cheap, and powerful enough to drive most headphones, unless they're very power demanding like the HD600's. If you want to go all out, getting a Schiit Stack like OP, or an ODAC combo works too. that's gonna be like 200+ though, so I recommend starting with something smaller.

Also, be sure to use Amazon's warehouse deals to get a "used" pair of any of these if you can. save some money on it, and if they're broken or damaged, amazon will gladly refund you. really is a money saver.

CUSTOM PHOTOS

PRICES

My custom photosets are $4/photo with a minimum of 10 photos. Photos are taken with my Nikon D5300.

CUSTOM VIDEOS

REMINDERS:

• I own copyright and content to all of my videos. Videos are for your eyes only. They are not to be shown to anyone else or posted anywhere (no redistribution, no reselling, not for commercial use). Doing so is copyright infringement, which is illegal.
  
• I do not show full face in ANY of my videos.
  
• All videos have a 5 minute minimum.
  
  
  

  $8/MINUTE
  

  
  Videos will be filmed with this webcam.
  
  

  $10/MINUTE
  

  
  Videos will be filmed with this camera.
  
  

  FETISH CONTENT
  

  All fetish content will be priced on a case-by case-basis.
  
  

  B/G CONTENT
  

  
  

• $10/minute to film with this webcam.
  
  
• $15/minute to film with this camera.
  
  
  

  INCLUDING YOUR NAME
  

  
  I charge $50 if you want me to use your name in the video. **If you'd like to include your name, you must purchase the $75 "Keep It Private" Fee.
  
  

  $75 KEEP IT PRIVATE
  

  
  I still own the content (you may not share with others or post elsewhere) but I won't resell your video.
  
  

  PREMADES
  

  
  

1. BLINDFOLDED BJ (POV) - Ever wondered what it'd be like to get a BJ from the lovely Lacy? Well now you can find out! P.S. I swallow ;) The video is 14:47 minutes long and costs $20. http://www.gfycat.com/JaggedUnhappyJoey
   
   
2. FREAKY FRIDAY - Watch me ride my boyfriend on his little brother's bunk bed ;) The video is 11:17 minutes long and costs $15. http://www.gfycat.com/MerryWelcomeCod
   
   
3. TAKEN FROM BEHIND - Watch my boyfriend fuck me doggy style!! I am super loud and I cum so many times in this one!! The video is 17:58 minutes and costs $20. http://www.gfycat.com/UniformDirectBovine
   
   
4. DOGGY STYLE (POV) - In case you were wondering about the view... (Warning: Camera is a bit shaky/moves around a bit). The video is 10:32 minutes and costs $10. http://www.gfycat.com/EasygoingImpureGuppy
   
   
5. BJ, FACEFUCK, & FACIAL - Watch me gag over and over again on my boyfriend's yummy cock. He finishes all over my face at the end. The video is 10:41 minutes long and costs $15. http://www.gfycat.com/SnoopyCriminalCrow
   
   
6. ANAL FUCKING - Watch my boyfriend fuck and destroy my tight little asshole. The video is 9:43 minutes long and costs $20. http://www.gfycat.com/PerfumedDisgustingGarpike
   
   
7. DOC JOHNSON JELLY DILDO - My boyfriend surprised me with this huge dildo as a gift! Watch me cream all over it. It's huge! I give my toy a nice and soapy hand job to clean it off at the end ;) The video is 8:28 minutes long and costs $10. http://www.gfycat.com/RepulsiveWholeFurseal
   
   
8. CHALLENGE ACCEPTED - My boyfriend always makes fun of me for never doing any work during sex...well I showed him!! The video is 6:50 minutes long and costs $12. http://www.gfycat.com/BigheartedBigAntelopegroundsquirrel
   
   
9. SHOWER TIME - Watch me shower and have fun with my body! I love playing with my boobs. Some parts of my face can be seen throughout the video The video is 14:24 minutes long and costs $15. http://www.gfycat.com/LawfulSillyDogfish
   
   
10. TEASING LEG JOB - I confront you about staring at me in class. Then I tease you and fuck my thighs using my cute glass dildo. I titty fuck myself and give you a sloppy blowjob to finish. The video is 9:58 minutes long and costs $15. http://www.gfycat.com/WanSoftAsp
    
    
11. BJ & CUMSHOT (POV) - Watch me give my boyfriend a sloppy, wet blowjob. At the end he cums all over my face and I smile because I'm a grateful slut. ;) The video is 15:54 minutes long and costs $20. http://www.gfycat.com/FastRingedHarvestmen
    
    
12. LAZY BJ - My boyfriend and I decided to turn on the camera for fun. :3 Watch me blow him. At the end, he cums on my face (same shot as BJ & Cumshot POV) and I smile because I am a grateful slut :) Parts of my face can be seen throughout the video The video is 6:44 minutes long and costs $12. http://www.gfycat.com/RemarkableSimpleAvocet
    
    
13. MY FIRST TOY - Watch me fuck myself with my cute glass dildo. Afterwards, I lick the dildo clean because I'm a good girl. The video is 8:37 minutes long and costs $12. http://www.gfycat.com/AltruisticAmbitiousBillygoat
    
    
    
14. TITTY & ASS PLAY - Watch me tease my nipples with cold, cold ice...watch the ice melt all over my body as I continue to tease my nipples. I enjoy it so much I decide to rub myself down with oil. Do you like how shiny and glossy my tits look? I can't resist and I decide to play with my ass a little. Which do you like better? Tits or ass? I do get lint on me at one point, but don't worry! I catch it almost immediately and remove it The video is 9:04 minutes long and costs $15. http://www.gfycat.com/ZanyLoathsomeFlea
    
    
15. DIRTY, CLEAN, & DIRTY AGAIN - I shave for you and then proceed to shampoo myself up. Suddenly, I feel the urge to play with myself for you. I finger my soapy pussy and I finger my asshole a little bit too. ;) When I'm satisfied, I proceed to clean myself again and once again, I can't resist and I decide to try out my shower head for the first time. It feels soooo good. Finally, I rinse off and do some silly dancing :3 The video is 12:28 minutes long and costs $18.
    http://www.gfycat.com/UnpleasantHonestAidi
    
    
16. FOOT MASSAGE AND DANCING - I came home from the gym very late and I had to whisper in the video. (I apologize if I'm hard to hear). I show off my feet to as I massage them. I occasionally sniff and lick them because they are just so yummy. Then after my feet feel nice and moisturized, my feet dance to some indie songs. The video is 9:41 minutes long and costs $14. http://www.gfycat.com/DisastrousUnlawfulGraysquirrel
    
    
17. MASKED ORGASMS - I got a new mask! (I kind of don't like it because it gets uneven sometimes and doesn't do my beautiful face justice sometimes, maybe it's because it's like 10000 degrees outside?) My boyfriend and I decide to do a little fooling around in the heat. I cum lots! The video is 6:17 minutes and costs $10. http://gfycat.com/PerfectEminentErne
    
    
18. VEGETABLE FUN - I was looking through my fridge for a midnight snack and I found a nice thick cucumber and long carrot. Being horny as fuck, I chose to feed my sexual hunger, rather than my stomach. ;) The video is 14:59 minutes and costs $20. http://gfycat.com/RashWelcomeAttwatersprairiechicken
    
    
19. PANTY STUFFING - I've never stuffed an entire pair into my pretty little pussy before. Wanna watch my first attempt? Spoiler alert, I'm successful!! The video is 6:48 minutes and costs $10. http://gfycat.com/WeeklySameBeagle
    
    
20. RIDING YOU - I'm soo horny and I step over you as you're laying on the floor. You see that I'm not wearing underwear and I jump to the chance and ride you. ;) The video is 6:31 minutes long and costs $10. http://gfycat.com/NippyGrayAsiandamselfly
    
    
21. LACY'S JERK OFF INSTRUCTION - My first JOI video! I use my glass dildo as a representation of your nice and hard cock. Then I direct you and we have a countdown at the end! The video is 8:56 minutes and costs $12 http://www.gfycat.com/UnripeMadeupBarbet
    
    
22. HOTEL SHENANIGANS - My boyfriend and I decided to rent a hotel room for a couple hours after a day of fun. We had tons of fun and I came so many times! The video is 24:44 minutes long and costs $40 for stream only. $60 for full download! (not available for GFE packages). http://www.gfycat.com/MenacingPoshIberianmole
    http://www.gfycat.com/TightSpecificKingsnake
    
    
23. TEASING YOU - I'm back! Listen to my soft, cute voice as I tease you with my tight little pussy and my cute fat butt. ;) The video is 7:16 minutes long and costs $10 :)
    http://gfycat.com/RewardingFlashyCockatiel
    
    
24. GROOL COLLECTING - Watch me fuck myself with my glass toy and collect all my grool in a tiny vial! ;) I haven't cum this hard with my toy before!! The video is 9:10 minutes long and costs $10 :)
    http://gfycat.com/FaithfulAjarJackal
    
    
25. SAILOR MOON - Oh no! My Halloween costume came a month late :( Thought I'd make use of it and make a premade! Watch me fuck myself with my cute glass toy as I try not to cum too loud because my roommates are home! Video is 6:50 minutes long and costs $12. http://gfycat.com/ReliableWetGermanspitz
    
    
26. JAMES DEEN DILDO - Yay! I purchased the James Deen dildo for myself and here is my first encounter with it! It's so big. Watch me try to fit it into my little pussy and my cute little mouth! Video is 6:20 minutes long and costs $12.
    http://gfycat.com/UglyThunderousKouprey
    
    
27. HAPPY SPANKSGIVING! - I've been a naughty girl...watch me squirm while my boyfriend spanks me for over 15 minutes! Video is 17:16 minutes and costs $25 :)
    http://gfycat.com/DearDelightfulCobra
    
    
28. ALONE TIME - I'm finally home from school! I love coming home to my boyfriend. We snuck away to fuck and the only place available was his garage. Hear me moan and cum over and over again! We fuck in sooo many different positions....reverse cowgirl, doggy style, missionary....He cums on me in the end and sticks his cock right back in me ;) Video is 13:34 minutes long and costs $15! http://gfycat.com/ElectricOptimalEthiopianwolf
    
    
29. HAIRBRUSH FUCKING & PANTY STUFFING - I'm desperate! I've been without my toys for almost a month! Watch my cum drip out of my pussy while I fuck myself with my hairbrush. Of course, I stuff my panties to soak up the yummy juices afterwards!
    Video is 10:30 minutes long and costs $15. http://gfycat.com/DrearyDamagedCod
    
    

I recently went on a once in a lifetime trip to France for two weeks, so hopefully I can provide some helpful advice/insight.

First, and I cannot stress this enough, have enough memory! I'd recommend bringing at least 16GB, if not more.
I brought two 8GB cards to France and transfered them to my computer each night. I never used the second card, however, if I wouldn't have had the luxury of transferring to a laptop each night, I would have quickly exceeded this.
If you are able to bring a computer or other means by which to back up your photos, I'd STRONGLY recommend it. It's great peace of mind to not have to worry about losing pictures or running out of room.

Second, DO NOT use the Auto mode, that just makes your DSLR a big point and shoot. A lot of people recommend using M(anual), but it can be a little overwhelming if you're not used to your camera. The Av (Aperture Priority) mode is great because it allows you to select the aperture value you want (which will effect what's in focus and Depth of Field) while automatically determining the rest. Constipated_Help gave you some very sound advice on exposure, so follow that if you're able.

Third, make sure you have the right accessories. A tripod would be great for landscape shots. The Dolica Proline is a great value at 40$. At least one extra battery would be good to have, especially if you will not be able to recharge during the trip. An Opteka t2i battery can be had for 12$, and works with your Canon charger.

If you can swing it, a new lens would be good to have since the lens is the determining factor of image quality. If you like to "zoom" and isolate subjects, you'll want a telephoto. The Canon 55-250 IS is a great deal at 240$. If you like wide angle, you'll need an ultra wide. These will typically run above 400$. I have a Tokina 11-16 and I am very pleased. As others have recommended, the Canon 50 1.8 is an incredible deal at 100$ and provides creative options with it's wide aperture.
A nice bag is also a good thing to have. You can buy either a messenger style, a holster or a backpack. Filters would also be nice, but they're not a necessity.

I hope this can help. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. I'd be glad to (try to) help! :)

I've used AKG K52, AKG Q701, Audeze LCD-2 Classic, Audio-Technica ATH-AD700x, Beyerdynamic DT990 (600 ohms), HiFiMan HE400i (the revision), HiFiMan HE500, HyperX Cloud, Koss Porta Pro, Monoprice Monolith M1060, Philips Fidelio X2, Philips SHP9500, Sennheiser HD598, Sennheiser HD700, Sennheiser HD800, Superlux HD662 EVO, Superlux HD668B, Superlux HD669, Superlux HD681 EVO, Tritton Pro+ and Turtle Beach Ear Force XP Seven for gaming, and my recommendations for online/competitive shooters are AD700x and DT990, or HD668B if you're on a budget.

If you need sound isolation, then I recommend HD669 first and K52 second, but only if you need sound isolation. I don't recommend HyperX Cloud (II) because it has been surpassed by HD669, K52 and especially HD668B in sound quality.

Sound:

AD700x has a sound signature/profile with subdued sub-bass and emphasized treble. It has clean bass and a little harsh treble. It has a huge soundstage, excellent imaging, separation and clarity, and great detail retrieval.

DT990 has a sound signature with subdued sub-bass, emphasized mid-bass and very emphasized treble. The bass is clean. The treble is slightly splashy or overly sparkly and somewhat sharp. It has a huge soundstage and excellent imaging, separation, clarity and detail retrieval.

HD668B has a sound signature with subdued sub-bass, emphasized mid-bass and emphasized treble. It has clean bass and a little sharp treble. It has a large soundstage and very good imaging, separation clarity and detail retrieval.

Soundstage and imaging constitute positional audio. Soundstage is produced by the headphone and is how you perceive space and environment of sound, like virtual surround sound. Imaging is how accurately the locations of sounds/objects are reproduced. Separation is how you discern individual sounds from a range of overlapping sounds. This is only important in competitive shooters.

Sub-bass is how deep the bass goes and is where rumble comes from. For competitive shooters, you don't want this as it masks or overshadows sound cues. Mid-bass is where impact comes from. Generally, you also want as little mid-bass as possible, but this isn't a problem with DT990 or HD668B. How bright you perceive the treble, depends largely on how treble sensitive you are and what your point of reference is. In games, treble isn't as bright as it is in music.

 

Amplifiers:

These headphones should output loud volume levels for most people. If they don't for you, then the easiest solution is to use a USB sound card like Creative Sound BlasterX G1 or G5. G1 is the cheapest sound card I know of that officially supports PS4 and offers ample amplification for most consumer-grade headphones with the exception of the 600-ohm and maybe the 250-ohm version of DT990. For these, use G5.

It's possible to use an Astro MixAmp Pro TR or a Turtle Beach Elite Pro TAC with power-hungry headphones if you want those sound cards because of their game and audio chat balancing or other features, but it would require pairing them with a more powerful amp.

You can use a headphone amplifier and a DAC (digital-to-analog converter), but it's less convenient.

Some well-regarded options:

• Audio-gd NFB-11.28 (both)
  
• Audio-gd R2R-11 (both)
  
• Audioengine D1 (both)
  
• Creative Sound Blaster X7 (both)
  
• FiiO D3 (DAC)
  
• FX Audio DAC-X6 (both)
  
• Mayflower ARC (both)
  
• Micca OriGen G2 (both)
  
• Schiit Magni 3 (amp)
  
• Schiit Modi 2 Uber (DAC)
  
• SMSL SD793-II (both)
  
• Topping A30 (amp)
  
• Topping D30 (DAC)
  
   
  
  Microphones:
  
  You can attach an Antlion ModMic or a Massdrop Minimic to the headphone. They don't have an in-line volume control, but you can use gadgets like these:
  
  adjustR, BENGOO, Fosmon, Insignia, Lucid Sound AdjustR
  
   
  
  Setup:
  
  The ModMic attaches magnetically to a base that you stick to either earcup. The Minimic uses the same clasp system except with velcro instead. They're easy to attach and detach, especially the Minimic since it's modular. They have their own cable and operate separately from the headphone, so they're compatible with all headphones.
  
  

  
  

  
  To connect the headphone and mic to the controller or other devices with a single jack, you need to use a TRRS Y-splitter. The Y-splitter must have three black rings on the connector.
  
  

  
  

  
  You can connect the headphone and mic to the USB port on PS4 by using an audio USB adapter.
  
  

  
  

  
  Sound BlasterX G1 anf G5 are plug-and-play. To use an amp and a DAC, you have to connect the mic to the controller with a TRRS Y-splitter or to the USB port on PS4 with an audio USB adapter, unless you use an amp that has a TRRS jack or a separate jack for the mic, like Mayflower ARC. Most sound cards have either of these. A sound card has an amp and a DAC built in and sacrifice sound quality for features. There's a common problem with reversed left and right channels when using USB DACs, so only use optical unless the DAC or sound card officially supports PS4. The headphone connects to the amp like usual. Amps and DACs can be bought separate or as combined units. You need a DAC because USB and optical are digital signals and PS4 has no analog outputs. If you get a separate amp and DAC, then you need RCA cables to connect them to each other.
  
  

  
  

  
  To pair an amp with the MixAmp or Elite Pro TAC, it's probably easier to show you this image. This is a 3.5mm-to-RCA cable. The featured amp is Schiit Magni, which has been replaced by Magni 3. You can only use a separate amp, not a DAC and amp combo unit.
  
   
  
  I'm almost out of space, so just ask me if you have questions.
  
  

Hello hopefuls, lurkers, and alumni! Rather than give each video a critique I'm just going to list some tips that will help everyone in the long run. These tips do not apply to any single person in particular and every one of them can be used to improve a performance in some way shape or form, those who have a mastery in all of them tend to go far.

1. Overlay Your Videos - Find a good quality version of your song that fits the theme, and edit your video in an video editing program (I use Windows Movie Maker for example) so the audio from your video is muted and the music is what plays over the footage. This has been a staple since week 5 of season 1 and is an absolute must if you want to do well.
   
   
2. Camera Quality - Now not everyone can afford an amazing camera ready to make Hollywood quality videos, I understand that. However if your camera can't keep up with you moving slowly, it's not going to be keeping up with your mouth either. I personally filmed my first few videos of season 1 with this before upgrading to this and then finally recently to this. You don't need to have the most amazing camera in the world but you do need one that is going to capture your performance in a quality that lets people see you werk it.
   
   
3. Emoting - Close your eyes, listen to your song, then listen to it again, then listen to it again, then listen to it again. Reread the lyrics, then reread them again. Get a real understanding of the song you want to perform and feel it out. Nothing causes a disconnect more than someone doing backflips and pirouettes to Natural Woman, and nobody wants to be the Kenya Michaels of that situation. However, on the other hand. You don't want to be completely still during an upbeat song that you can work the house down. Also use your face, don't be afraid to use your face. Are you feeling terrible, show it to me in your eyes. Happy? Throw a grin around that chin. Whatever the song calls for let it all out just keep it within the constraints of the song. Over emoting can hurt you just as much as under emoting.
   
   
4. Enunciation/Learning Your Lyrics - You can know the lyrics front to back, back to front, left to right but if you don't enunciate them properly what's the point? Now I'm always a fan of going above and beyond with enunciation for entertainment value but I understand that's not exactly everyones gig. What I WILL tell you however is that you do infact have to over enunciate at least a little. You're not actually singing, if you were to just move your mouth as if you were it doesn't get the point across as well as overenunication does. A little bit goes a long way and it really gives that extra punch to your lyrics. Also rather than syncing the way you'd sing the song, actually listen to the person singing, mimic their breath patterns, listen to how THEY pronounce the word rather than how you do.
   
   
5. Audience Connection - This one is going to be short, make and keep eye contact with your camera. Flirt with it a bit, the camera is your window to the audience and while you can't actually interact with them you can make them feel as if you are.
   
   
6. Reacting to Critique- Now every week your videos are going to be watched by a large pool of people, some of these people may choose to critique you. Largely whether or not you listen to their tips for improvement is up to you, however be forewarned that while it is 100% your choice to follow tips, it could shoot you in the foot regardless of whether or listen or not. Be smart about it, also try not to take them to heart, not everyone is going to love all of your videos, and not everyone is going to hate all of your videos. Just be proud of the work you put in and do it for you, have fun with it, learn from it, keep expressing yourself.
   
   
7. Dancing - Now if you are doing a song with rhythm, feel free to dance. You don't know how to dance? No problem either! Be creative, use the pauses and beats to your advantage. HOWEVER this is first and foremost a LIP SYNC competition. It helps to keep your fancy moves that could obscure your mouth to perhaps spots where there are no lyrics. If I can't see your mouth I don't know how well you're lip syncing. Find your balance, and run with it. In terms of non dance movement, hitting a beat with a quick arm movement or facial expression can really elevate a performance.
   
   
8. Have a Look - This is the last thing I can think of off the top of my head. Having a look or costume to go with the song you picked not only shows effort but can keep the video very engaging. Now obviously not everyone has access to tons of costumes, wardrobe, wigs and accessories so don't be afraid to get crafty. For example back in season 2 zoomyx made wigs out of yarn! Competitor Sailor Evan in season 1 is known for his viral construction paper Sailor Moon outfits. Even a simple t-shirt and some rudimentary makeup can be turned into a look that helps you tell a story with your video.
   
   
9. Filming Camera Angle Orientation - If you film on your phone, don't film in portrait mode. It cuts a lot out of the video and while you may have more room up and down to work with you lose a lot of room to your left and right, it also can be very distracting and take away from what otherwise be an absolutely stellar performance.
   
   Overall these tips can and WILL help you in the long run, I wish you all the best and good luck!
   
   Now with all that said I'm now going to reveal the 6 people I voted for in no particular order.
   
   /u/BitchEva /u/mtd1988 /u/Kamui_Gr /u/itsbrohan and I don't know Sheba Maneater or Lady T's reddit names.
   
   Now good luck, and don't fuck it up
   
   Edit: SECRET TIP NUMBER 10! Carrion Threads - If you don't get in or didn't audition but want to still participate, make a video and post it in the Carrion Threads! These threads are named after April Carrion from Season 6 of RuPaul's Drag Race, after she was eliminated she would post the runway looks for each theme that she brought to the show on her social media. In the spirit of that you guys can follow along in them and they're great practice to really hone your skills for next year! Stick around and lip sync with us!

Yeah, those aren't really the best for gaming, I agree. But I suggested them just in case because I have definitely seen people use them for gaming before.

In general I don't think I'd recommend IEMs heavily for gaming. If you're gonna use 'em outside as well as inside, then yeah, maybe it would be better than a pair of open back headphones. But well, anyway, I've not heard much of that particular pair, and they don't seem incredibly well regarded from a quick check.

With IEMs for gaming it could get more expensive depending on how much soundstage you want or need. Imo, with IEMs, you should either go relatively cheap or just start plunging in, because there's not much amazing in the middle. There are some incredibly good cheap IEMs like the Xiaomi Piston 3s. I have this pair, and I can vouch that they do not sound like $20 IEMs in the least, there is $100 sound in these. The catch is they are often faked, so if you buy a pair, make sure they're real by checking online, but well, it's Amazon, so there should be no issue if they're faked if you buy fulfilled by them, you'll return em easy. But they sound really good, especially for the incredibly low price, and I've tried gaming with them and they do fine for it, though not as great as headphones.

In the middle there is an incredibly well recommended IEM called the Shure s215. Are they good for gaming, well, I've never heard them so I can't fully say. They should be fine, but not amazing.

What will really do you best is a pair of IEMs with incredibly good soundstage, but you'll unfortunately be paying a lot more for really good soundstage in an IEM. I recommend just plunging in and spending a lot if what you want is IEMs, something like the Sennheiser IE80s. These are well known for very wide soundstage and clarity, and they'd probably do you best for gaming because of it. But the price is up there compared to a pair of headphones as you can see.

For noise cancelling I don't know much admittedly. I think Bose is still well recommended for noise cancelling, but I also think I've heard cheap Bose headphones aren't amazing. I've heard of the Bose QC25s as being good I think? But again, you're paying a premium for the noise cancelling. I would suggest IEMs over noise cancelling personally.

Fidelio X2s need a headphone amp which will run you some good extra money besides the price of them alone, I don't recommend them unless you're willing to shell out at least an extra $100 besides their price. The HD 598s are amazing at their price point for everything, probably the single best all around headphones at the price range, and the best ones for gaming imo. They're the ones I recommend most.

I'm sorry I've written you a novel here by the way, but I hope I helped a little!

I'll recommend the three pairs of headphones that I use on a regular basis. I know you asked for over-ear, but even as an over-ear guy myself I've still gotten a lot of utility from all three of them, so they're all certainly worth considering.

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MEE Audio Sport-fi M6P- These are my daily workhorse earbuds. I wear them a good 6 hours a day, and they stay fairly comfortable throughout; they wrap around the ear and fit quite nicely. Includes an on-cord volume adjustment, microphone, and pause/play button, if that matters to you. They run around $19, and they're far and away the best headphones I've ever used in this price range.

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Sony MDR-V6- These were my first step into the world of "real" headphones. They've been industry standard studio monitors since the 80s, and for good reason. Sound is clean and crisp, with a fairly balanced sound signature and particularly good mids (seeing as classical music isn't particularly "bass heavy" having mids as a strong point is ideal; you definitely wouldn't want a bass-head pair of cans). They're foldable, and so I find them rather portable. They're over-ear and closed-back so they're not going to bleed sound all over the place, but they don't have the best isolation so if your daily traffic is particularly noisy (e.g.: downtown of large city or louder) that might be a bit of an issue for you, but if you're in areas a bit more quiet (e.g.: office, cafe, smaller city) they'll do you fine. They're not the most fashionable things and they also have a coiled cable, neither of which bother me but could be an issue for some. They run about $80, and if you're coming from cheap gas station quality headphones these will probably knock your socks off.

Sennheiser HD 598- Of the three, these are the best. Amazingly warm and rounded, with a spacious, open, and detailed sound. They have really good instrument separation as well, which obviously lend themselves quite well to listening to classical music. Extraordinarily comfy for an indefinite period of time. However, these are my "home" headphones, as they are open back and provide absolutely no isolation whatsoever- I can hold a conversation perfectly well with someone with these on and my volume at 70%, so they'd be utterly useless in any public space. The open back provides an excellent soundstage, but that's the price you pay. Speaking of price, they run at around $150, but they go on sale with some frequency for $99.

--

I personally would recommend getting the earbuds and the 598s, with one being an out and about pair and one for being a home pair. That's what I usually roll about with, and between the two of them I don't really use the V6s anymore as a consequence. That being said, if you're only going to buy one pair as your be all end all, the V6 is a great purchase- I used them exclusively for 4 years and was never disappointed. If these don't float your boat though, I'd recommend hopping over to /r/headphones or www.head-fi.org and see what they have to say- they're both extraordinarily helpful communities with huge and knowledgeable user bases.

Boy, Ubiquiti sure doesn't make it easy for the average home user/consumer to get a grasp on their products and offerings. I fumbled my way into a similar situation as yourself, perhaps bits of my ramblings will be helpful for you. I started off with a trusty little ER-X, fully planning to outgrow that little device within a matter of months. That did NOT happen, as it's quite a capable router for the $49 I invested in it. It even handled load-balancing dual WAN connections without breaking a sweat. And there's a PoE passthrough for pairing the router with a wireless access point. After being so thrilled with the ER-X, I decided it was time to bring our wireless capabilities into the 21st century and ended up going with a UAP-AC-LR, which has continued to serve us well over the past ~18+ months, or so. I was getting consistent remarks on just how great the WiFi was all of a sudden after deploying that lovely little UFO shaped device. Do yourself a favor and avoid the CloudKey, unless you have a very specific use-case / need for it. There's dozens of ways to run a UniFi Controller that are both cheaper (free?) and better, IMO. If you just have the single access point (I only have the one) you could potentially even stand it up simply by using the UniFi mobile app to set it and forget it. It only needs to run when you want to make modifications, or changes to your setup, but the options are immense. You can even run the software on your desktop PC, pretty much whatever you have on hand will suffice.

In an effort to give a somewhat complete run-down of your options, there's another line of products, where many folks prefer to go with a pure UniFi setup. The USG is on par with the ER-X, but it's twice the cost with less power and less features. The only added bonus is that you get to manage it from the same menu/interface as your access point(s), so your metrics and charts will fill out more and look a bit prettier, but how often do you really sit around and look at how much data your network devices are pulling? I still prefer the EdgeMAX dashboard over the UniFi Controller interface, especially considering the fact that I'm not wholly convinced the values are particularly accurate, so it may be of little value if that's something you actually need for your use-case, rather than just a pretty toy to view. Hope some of this helps, if you have further questions, please ask away! Below I'll list the absolute bare-bones, budget-conscious way to get into an incredibly stable home network setup, from my experiences. I only recently upgraded my Edgerouter-X with an Edgerouter 12 from the Early Release store, and today is the day my upgraded fiber package gets flipped on. Goodbye 100Mbps, hello Gbps! Sadly, not symmetrical... but that's for another time and place. Best of luck with your decision(s). I swear by my little "hybrid" network with the Edgerouter at the core and the UniFi access point (i've since added a mish-mash of switches, but unless you have a large need for ethernet connected devices, the ER-X should be plenty to get you going. This TP-Link was the absolute cheapest "managed" (smart) switch I could find in my research. I'm not quite sold on the UniFi switches, but I often wish I owned an Edgeswitch Lite, but someday I'll learn more than just the basics of the used Cisco SG300-20 i picked up to be the "core" switch of my network. Both the ER-X and ER12 have the added bonus of built in switching chips, so you get the best of both worlds which gives you quite a bit of flexibility in a home/lab environment.

TL;DR -- Edgerouter-X paired with UAP-AC-Lite with the UniFi Controller software running on pretty much whatever you have on hand (RPi, Google Cloud Compute, AWS, any old PC, etc.) and you will have a rock-solid network core with dreamy WiFi that'll get you compliments for weeks, if not months from your significant other and/or housemate(s).

It's really, really easy to get started. Don't get me wrong, there is definitely a high level of production value that you can achieve (later on if you want to, or maybe never), but starting off is quite a simple thing.


All you really need is a laptop, a webcam, and decent internet... and maybe a soft lamp. It's best to have an ethernet cable running to your router if you can, for faster speeds than wifi. You can get a pretty cheap webcam that does a decent job, or shell out a little more and get something a little better. The best (or at least most popular) webcam for camgirls I have found is this one. Inbuilt laptop webcams might do the trick, but use your judgement on whether it looks good enough or not. Would you watch something of the quality you're producing?

There is sooo much information on ambercutie forums, but a trap that I fell into early on is feeling like you need expensive lighting, the best webcam, an amazing mic and so on when you really dont.

On the subject of lighting, it really makes a difference to be well lit, but you don't need photography-standard umbrella lights. I have two soft lamps a little bit behind my laptop so I'm lit from two angles, and it works really well. You just want to make sure they're soft and you're not casting yourself into shadow on one side, and MOST IMPORTANTLY not solely lit from above, like from a ceiling light. That is some unflattering shit.

I really like Myfreecams.com because it's easy to use, high traffic, the token conversion is easy to understand, the payment methods are easy and reliable, and probably least importantly is that there seems to be fewer rules regarding what you can and can't do (which makes it a little less stressful). Have a look at the aforementioned forum for advice regarding choosing a site. Verification can sometimes be a pain but if you have a driver's licence and a scanner you'll probably have a really easy time.


This is a loooot of information to take in all at once, I know. Even though I could go on and on for ages, like I said before, keep it simple to start with and don't stress yourself out with the nitty gritty - you might get so stressed you don't want to even begin. Bear in mind, this is all about the SOLID parts of camming, the technical aspects. The mental game is a whole other topic entirely, and I would be happy to answer more questions if you're asking.

Good luck! xx

>Googled it and it looks like a pretty great camera, I've got a Canon 650D but I've yet to take many photos around that part of London with it.

Yes, I love it, recently upgraded from a Pentax K-x starter model and it's been a blast taking pics with the K-5 IIs. I recommend you head on out to downtown and take some pics!

>Just noticed your lens is also pretty fancy, do you think it's worth investing in lenses like these? Still somewhat new to photography so just curious as you seem advanced

Absolutely. I had this lens before I had the K-5 IIs and truly the lens matters much more than the actual camera.

You can take a top line camera and slap on a starter lens, and you will take pictures that are barely better than the starter camera would with the same lens. If you take a starter camera and compare a top quality lens to a start lens, you'll notice a big difference is easy to achieve.

It's definitely $300 well spent for this lens. Its main advantage over the starter lens is its wide f/1.8 aperture which allows you to take much better night shots without being forced to prolong your exposure (shutter speed), because it lets in much more light in a short time. It's also lovely for depth of field.

If I can recommend a lens for you, I would say get a 50mm f/1.8 first of all. They're cheap and very useful for portraits and street photos, and there's a reason they're nicknamed 'nifty fifty'. On a cropped sensor like your 650D's, you might prefer a wider angle lens if you want to do landscape photos or city skyline shots like mine. In that case, look at lenses with focal length of 30mm and less. Conversely, if you're interested in doing sports photos, wild animal photos and bird spotting, or airshows and the like, look at lenses of 200mm and more, since those will let you zoom in real close.

I'm not a total expert but this is what I would recommend.


Headphones:


Cheap and good for noisy-ish environments - Status audio CB-1 $79


If you live in a noisy environment, These will give you the best reaults. A lot of getting the most our of this album is isolation. Direct Sound EX-29 $107


Super good closed backed headphones, but impedance is very high - Beyerdynamic DT-770 Pro $160


Very good open backed headphones, impedance is relatively low -

Audio Technica ATH-AD700x $109


Super good open backed headphones, but they have a very high impedance - Beyerdynamic DT 990 Pro $179


Amps/DACS:


Honestly this is where I personally would spend most of your money, any really good pair of open backed headphones are going to make albums like phwoa sound amazing with the wide sounds stage but a good amp and DAC will make a world of difference. For the price the Mayflower electronics Objective2 is best bang for your buck. I' don't have a ton of experience with amps and DACs but the O2 is properly good, and for $250 you can't go wrong.


Other than that you could look into a tube style Amp but you'd need a separate DAC in most cases plus I personally don't find the tube amps to be a whole lot better unless you spend a shit ton of money on them. They do look cool as balls though.


Favorite setup: California Headphone Co. Silverdos  or Audio Technica with my LG V20 and its beastly DAC and equalizer tuning. Although I wouldn't recommend the California headphones because I personally only paid $15 for them and $200 seems a bit steep for them tbh.


Note: I've owned or at least tried everything I've listed except the CB-1 but I've heard from a lot of well respected sourced that they are pretty damn good especially for under $100

Gaming headphones are a pretty weird market. None of them are actually that good for anything but games, and other headphones can usually do games better. Instead of buying a gaming headset, It's better to buy a less expensive pair of headphones that preform better and add a mic. Gaming headsets may have all sorts of cool features, but you'll find that you don't really need them once you don't have them. The most important thing for gaming headphones isn't preset EQs or bass response, it's all about having a positively massive soundstage. That's how you can get your system sounding something like a surround sound setup (although headphones just can't do the same things that speakers can at any price range). Depening on your price range, you could get the Sennheiser HD558, the Audio Techinca AD700X, the AKG Q701, or the Philips Fildelio X1. As for mics, you can get the Zalman ZM1 clip on mic, or the Antlion Modmic, if you're a fan of boom mics and quality. On top of being able to play games with them, you'll also be able to listen to your music collection rather comfortably, which is the main place where gaming headsets fall short, as they're equalized and tuned specifically for games.

I'm sorry to do a huge info dump on you, but getting a nice sounding pair of headphones doesn't just improve your games and music, it improves your life :) Eventually, you'll be more comfortable wearing them than not.

Whichever way you go, though, I hope you enjoy whatever you buy to the fullest, and most importantly, enjoy Destiny's phenominal sound design with your headphones! And if you need more suggestions, I'd be happy to help!

EDIT: I didn't really mention prices because I'm from the UK and pricing over here is weird, some things are a lot more expensive here than they would be in the US for example.

Good heaphones generally aren't also affordable. For headsets I'd say the best headset as in, also with a mic attached, the Sennheiser PC360s are probably the best I have used. I don't think I've ever heard a headset that is has as clear directional cues and with such a large soundstage. It's pretty well balanced too so nothing is too overbearing, as an example I used to have Turtle Beach....

I forget which ones exactly, I think X11s? Those had really, really overbearing treble and made every sound like it was in a tin can. That's great for picking out the higher pitched footsteps in a game like CoD. Bad for movies and music though. I assume the newer versions are better in that regard because it was a pretty common complaint.

Anyway, the Senns also have pretty decent front and back positional cues, which isn't something you really find too often. It's definitely the hardest part of directional cues to nail down. They are super clear as well, if I'm listening to something like a live recording of an orchestra, it's really easy to pick out the location of each instrument (assuming the room acoustics are okay) and tell them apart rather than them kind of blending too much.

The only complaint I have about them is that the bass isn't really too punchy (which I like) due to the open back nature and their focus on a balanced audio spectrum. Still by far the best headset I have ever used.

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If you want something specifically for FPS these are pretty amazing. They don't come with a mic so you'd have to buy a clip-on mic or something but those are fairly cheap and it's nice to be able to take it off when you don't need it.

The highs are nice and pronounced, and mids on these from what I remember (I never owned them, used at a friend's place for a few days at a LAN) have excellent detail to them. The soundstage is huge too (in Dolby Headphone mode) which is great because obviously a bigger soundstage makes it easier to discern the direction of audio.

I wouldn't recommend them for anything other than tryhard FPS though, the bass is honestly not good at all, so it isn't going to be good for movies or music, and because of the focus on the higher end, they sound... Nothing will sound 'real' through these. They definitely aren't good for immersive audio.




Since I'm pretty tired and don't want to write any more I would say check out this buyer's guide from /r/headphones. Specifically I can recommend the Audio Technica M50Xs. They are really popular. I've never personally used them but I don't think I've ever heard anyone have much to say negatively about them. They might require a bit of an amp though so if you don't already have a headphone amp they might not sound as good as they potentially can. Also, they are apparently a little bassy, so if soundwhoring is what you're after they might not be perfect for that. Also, closed back, so they will have a tighter soundstage but from everything I've heard about them, they still sound great. Some people even prefer the sound of closed back headphones, I don't personally, but audio is a fairly subjective thing at the end of the day. What I used to do was order headphones from Amazon, try them out for a day or so, then return them and rinse and repeat. Not sure if Amazon would still allow you to return as often as I did these days but it's possibly an option. If it is possible to try out headphones before committing I'd definitely say you should.

BenQ PG2401PT - a bit over your budget bracket, but I think I would go for it personally if I could afford it. Reason for it being the 10bit panel (my new favorite). However, as with everything it has its drawbacks and for that monitor it's the size, only 24inches.

The PG monitor features a 10-bit IPS panel that uses a 14-bit 3D Look Up Table (LUT) to guarantee silky smooth color gradation on any image. The 10-bit panel can create more than one billion colors--64 times the amount of color available on an 8-bit panel, and with 14-bit processing capability, generates crisper definition and improved gray-level distinction. The 14-bit 3D Look Up Table (LUT), monitors improves RGB color blending accuracy, resulting in impeccable color and gray tone reproduction. Rated to 350 cd/m2 brightness, the monitor’s Brightness Uniformity Function enables PG series monitors to certify a consistent image across the entire display.

ASUS PB278Q 27-Inch - Almost 600 reviews and still sitting at 4.5/5 stars. Pretty lucky for you as the price on amazon.co.uk and amazon.com is almost the same, but the UK one is priced as £ (£465) instead of $($469). People who own it state its a good multi-purpose monitor. So even though it is a PLS monitor it should be fine.

ASUS PB287Q 28-Inch 4K - 4K version of the above monitor. 100 reviews, 4/5 stars.

Samsung 28-Inch 4K LED Monitor (U28D590D) - pretty decent looking monitor, but has mixed reviews so could be a gamble.

That's roughly it for now. Here's a pretty nice IPS monitor list with USD prices and some helpful notes. I got a few more monitors noted down, but they are gaming monitors with 144Hz refresh rate, 1ms response time, G-sync etc.

I think it's worth checking out NEC monitors, which seem to be mega expensive, but offer amazing specs. As to Korean brands, I haven't looked around, have you found any good looking ones with decent specs?

As it stands the BenQ BL2710PT or Asus PB278Q are best choice for you, both 27 inch and 1440p. Also, since you aren't gaming then maybe have a look at 4K monitors? Obviously 4K requires a bit more powerful pc.

Alright, here we go:

PLANNING

You mainly need to figure out how many cables you need and where you'll run them to. Obviously you'll need one to each location of an AP or camera, so you need to figure out how many you'll run to jacks for connecting Ethernet devices. The bare minimum is one to each TV location and desk location, in this case you'll connect a switch to the jack if you need to connect more than one device. The ideal number is five to your main entertainment center, and two to every other TV location and desk location. This hopefully eliminates the need for secondary switches. In addition, you should run one Coaxial cable to each TV location including your main entertainment center. Add up all the Ethernet cables you'll be running, and keep this number in mind.

As for the network hub location, the best place for it is the basement, preferably an unfinished part of it near the entry point of your internet service. If you don't have a basement, use a utility room. Just make sure it has some sort of ventilation, you don't want stuff getting too hot.

EQUIPMENT

For the actual Ethernet cable, you'll want to get a 1000 foot bulk spool. Get pure copper rather than copper clad aluminum (CCA) and solid conductors rather than stranded. It needs to be riser rated (pretty much any will be) but plenum rating is pointless unless you'll be running it through air ducts. Your big choice here is the category rating: Cat5e or Cat6. Cat5e is good for gigabit, Cat6 will future-proof you for 10 gigabit. Cat6 is more expensive, thicker, and trickier to terminate as the spec only allows a quarter inch of untwisting rather than Cat5e's half an inch.

Keeping in mind the number of wires you plan on running, you'll need a punch-down patch panel with at least that many ports that matches the category rating of your cable. You'll also need punch-down keystone jacks, these also need to match the category rating of your cable. You won't need them for cables going to cameras or APs, you'll just need one for each other cable. For each location where you'll be installing jacks, you'll need a single gang old work low voltage bracket (or a surface-mount box), and a keystone wallplate. Six ports for the main entertainment center, three for each other TV location, two for each desk location. You'll also want a keystone coaxial coupler for each TV location including the main entertainment center.

You have another big choice to make for the main switch, a managed PoE switch or a dumb unmanaged switch. The managed PoE switch will simplify things a lot as it'll power your cameras and APs, while with an unmanaged switch you'll need to use PoE injectors. A managed PoE switch will, predictably, be much more expensive. Either way, you'll ideally want one with at least as many ports as the total number of Ethernet cables you'll planning to install, plus one for the router. You can get one with fewer ports, but then you won't be able to connect all your cables to it at once, you'll need to just connect the ones you're currently using. If you'll be going with a managed PoE switch, get one of these UniFi switches: 8-port with 4 PoE, 8-port with all PoE, 16-port, 24-port, or 48-port. If you'll be getting an unmanaged switch, any is fine. Just make sure it's gigabit. I used this one in my previous house, for example.

For the router, you'll want the UniFi Security Gateway.

You've got another big choice to make for the APs: Lite or Pro. The main difference is that the Lite has two 5 GHz streams, while the Pro has three. Only high-end devices like Macbook Pros have 3-stream Wi-Fi hardware, so if you don't have any devices with this, the Pro won't give you any benefit. Also, since the Lite is cheaper you can get more of them for the money, as more APs rather than better ones is the best thing you can do to improve your Wi-Fi. Both of these are available in single-packs and 5-packs, the single packs include PoE injectors but the 5-packs don't. If you're getting a PoE switch, consider getting a 5-pack of Lites.

You'll need something to run the UniFi controller. This is the software that you use to manage all the UniFi gear in one place. The easiest thing to do is install it on an Ethernet-connected PC and just run it when you need to make changes or update firmware. If you want a dedicated device for running it all the time, you can use a Raspberry Pi or Cloud Key. The Cloud Key is PoE-powered, so it's particularly convenient if you have a PoE switch.

You'll also need a few RJ45 plugs for the AP and camera cables, a crimping tool for them, a 110 impact punch down tool for doing your jack and patch panel terminations, and something to strip the cable jacket. Normally this will be built into the crimper.

Lastly, you'll need a lot of pre-made Ethernet patch cables to connect everything in your network hub. Get ones that are as short as possible, 1-3 feet. You'll need one to connect each cable you've installed from the patch panel to the switch, one for connecting the switch to the router, and another for connecting the router to the modem/ONT (this one may need to be longer). If you'll be using any PoE injectors, you'll need an additional cable for each one. You could make all these yourself, but this is very tedious and time-consuming, and hard to get right. The wires need to be in the right order and all 8 need to be connected for gigabit to work. Lastly, you'll need one for each actual Ethernet device you currently have, these should be 6 feet or longer if necessary.

INSTALLATION AND SETUP

The first thing to do is run all the cables. Camera and AP lines go to the device's location and get an RJ45 plug, all the others go to a keystone jack box/bracket/faceplate. Whenever possible, leave a foot of slack at both ends in case you need to re-do terminations. I like to terminate each cable after I run it, as it makes things easier to keep track of. For all the jacks, note the port number of the cable at the patch panel, and write that same number on the faceplate next to the jack. When you do the terminations, make sure to untwist the wire as little as possible, particularly if you're using Cat6.

For the APs, install the ceiling mount bracket using the included hardware, connect the cable to the AP, and then just put the AP on the bracket and twist it to lock it in place.

At the network hub, first hook up any PoE injectors you'll be using. Connect the patch panel port for the AP/camera cable to the injector's PoE port, and connect the injector's LAN port to the switch. Plug the injector into an outlet. Now connect the rest of the patch panel's ports to the switch, or if you have a smaller switch just connect the ones you're currently using. Connect the USG's LAN port to the switch, and its WAN port to your modem/ONT. Make sure your APs are getting power, their ring light will be white if they are.

Now, open the UniFi Controller (wherever you have it set up) and go to the Devices page. Adopt everything, and update everything's firmware. Go through it and set up everything the way you like. All the UniFi devices will light up blue once adopted and configured.

So I bought a new wireless headset from Amazon that had the promo tag on it, (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VANOFY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) however I never got the code. Amazon chat told me a few minutes ago that the item wasn't fulfilled by Amazon so it doesn't count, so I'm hoping senpai notices me :P

My MMO life hasn't been too long, roughly 8 years or so. I'm a huge fan of FF, and played just about every game in the franchise except for XI...so I picked it up and it was so much fun, but really really quiet. I started the game maybe 5-6 years after launch, so there really wasn't anyone to play with, not even considering that I joined right when Abyssea came out, which coincidentally was when much of the population left the game.

When rumors of XIV came out, I was so excited. The biggest thing for me was that I could finally play a FF MMO on the same playing level field as other players, and I could actually do and play content while it was new. I always hated that I was "left behind" in XI, so this was a big deal for me.

I partook in the beta test for 1.0 and was there the day the game launched and continued to stay, even while others I met and played with in the game left. While others griped about the game and how bad it was, I was looking around looking at everyone like they were crazy - because I really loved the game and it was MUCH MUCH better than XI IMO. I also really really liked the changes Yoshi and his team brought to 1.0 even though I understood the game I grew to love was going to come to an end one day.

Yoshi and his team had done a really good job to pull those who really paid attention to the world and lore together (not including all of the special "hidden" surprises as time continued to tick away) so The Calamity felt immersive, and it was pretty special. You could feel the tension in the air while we were all waiting in Mor Dhona for the Empire on that last day....then the servers went down and we were greeted with "the end of an era" trailer - perfect ending. Tears were shed. I was devastated. NO game could ever come close to this experience.

Fast forward a few years and I still play every day, slowly making more progress. I recently got my 240 relic (BRD) on Friday, and my static recently cleared AM6 (for the FIRST TIME after 11 weeks) last Monday, and again on Tuesday, so even though I am a "legacy" player, I'm still celebrating milestones... even almost 5 1/2 years in.

I love this game very much and I have lot of hope for the future. Yoshi P and his team really do seem to listen to what the players want (contradictory to what most would believe) and I believe it shows. I think our best days are ahead of us in this game and I can't wait to see what the expansion has to offer.

This stuff is pretty nice, but she is limited by the equipment. Get her a decent dslr body, but invest in a good lens. My girlfriend started shooting with phones and point and shoots. We saved up and bought a Canon T2i at a great price. We were then able to save up and add to our lens collection. Here is a very good lens for a great price. Remember though it's not the camera that makes the photo, but the director who shoots it. With these cameras you have so much more potential, but you have to set it up. It's a great learning experience. It's like playing games on a pc. An entry level computer will still let you play great games, but a gaming computer will let you play great games at a much higher quality. You just have to know how to build it and set it up. Best of luck to you and your mom.

Please don't do a Bose system unless you just absolutely love it. I don't find their sound quality/performance to match their price.

In the above reply you mentioned a 5.1 or 7.1 setup. Unless you have the proper room to setup a 7.1 you're better off going with a 5.1 for both easy of setup and cost effectiveness.

Here are some options I would consider.

AVR - (pick one) The heart of the system. I'm going Yamaha because they are very easy to setup and have a really good app to control them.

• Yamaha RX-V581 $500 or Refurb $350 Great 7.2 AVR with a lot of features. Gives you the option for a zone 2, 7.1 or atmos speakers.
  
  
• Yamaha RX-V481$400 5.1 AVR that includes networking features. Less channels but also less price. If you feel like you won't be expanding in the near future this could be a winner.
  
  Speakers - (Pick one) These are some packages I would look at. I went with packages to make it easier but honestly there are so many combinations we could sit here all day.
  
  
• KEF - E305 $600 on sale This is a great 5.1 speaker package to get you started. Amazing sound and a very small footprint.
  
  
• DefTech - ProCinema 800 $900 another 5.1 speaker package that has small satellite speakers that are very easy to place around the room.
  
  
• Boston Acoustics - CS2300 5.0 set $200 + SVS PB1000 $500 Another good option for smaller speakers and you're getting a very capable subwoofer too boot. Be careful of sub placement as these speakers cross higher than most.
  
  
• Pioneer - SP-PK52FS $480 + BIC F12 Sub $220 This set gets you towers speakers for the front so you don't have to worry about stands for them. You could get the bookshelf set but I would still upgrade to the F12 as the Pioneer sub is probably too small for your room.
  
  
• Q Acoustics - 3000 Series 5.1 $800 Kind of new to the US but they get great reviews from the UK. Different looking speakers.
  
  Keep in mind that you'll probably need speaker wire, HDMI cables, and possibly an optical cable depending on your sources.

I was in your position not too long ago. I really wanted to get into the hobby but didn't have enough money to buy anything decent. The first thing I did was look for a job. This is easier said than done but once I found one I was surprised as to how quickly I could make money. One of the first things I bought was a nice pair of headphones. I bought the Audio Technica ATH-M50xBT, but the cheaper version without bluetooth looks just as good. I also started to collect records. It did feel pointless at times with no way of listening to them but I still appreciated the artwork. After that I decided to buy some nice bookshelf speakers, the Edifier R1280T's. Although the price was cheap, I absolutely love these speakers. Even though I didn't have a turntable yet, it made listening to Spotify more enjoyable. Additionally, I knew that I would have a nice pair of speakers for whenever I could afford a turntable. These speakers have two inputs so I can have both my PC and turntable plugged in at the same time which is really nice. Once I had enough for a turntable I had a little trouble picking out the right one. I almost settled for a lp60 but I'm glad I didn't. For me, it was between a U-turn Orbit, AT lp120, and Fluance RT81. All of these are great turntables but I ended up choosing the Fluance model. The wood look, large number of features, and good reviews made this the best turntable under $300 for me. That's my story! Please don't buy anything cheaply made. It won't sound any better than Spotify will for you and will be a little disappointing. Also, don't give up on trying to sell the PS4. I gave up video games around 6 months ago and I've had so much more free time to work and enjoy other things! Good luck!

Hey! It looks like you've got a pretty solid build started here! I just want to point out a few things to make your life just a little bit easier.

1. The motherboard you have will NOT work with the CPU that you've chosen. You picked a Z170A board, which works with the 6th and 7th generation (if BIOS is flashed) of Intel CPU's, and you're buying an 8th generation. So I would recommend this board or this one instead. Either will work, it just depends on how much money you want to spend.
   
2. Don't buy the power supply you've picked. It puts out way more wattage than you'll use, so I would recommend saving some money and maybe picking up this one. As a bonus it has an RGB fan, so that's kinda cool. It's also fully modular, meaning that you only need to plug the cables into the PSU that you need instead of having extras to hide in your case.
   
3. I'd also save some money on your RAM. This set is cheaper, faster, and only requires that you use two of your RAM slots instead of all four. More upgradeability in the future!
   
4. Think about if you really need 2TB of storage right now. The 1TB SSD you have picked out is going to be great, and if you're new to PC gaming it's going to have plenty of space for awhile. You can always pick up a new HDD (like the Seagate one you have in your cart) later down the road.
   
5. With the money that you've saved, I think that you could upgrade your graphics card from your 1060 (a GREAT option, don't get me wrong) to a 1070 like this one. (EVGA is a great company in my opinion, and I love their graphics cards.) It's a great contender for both 1440p and 1080p gaming!
   
6. Others have said to get a cheaper air cooler instead of opting for the water cooler that you've picked. If you decide to go that route (completely fine) I would maybe go with something like this if you want something extra beefy to keep your CPU cool, or this less beefy one. Either way, 8th generation CPUs run hot, so the water cooler you have would work great.
   
   So there ya go! I hope that you enjoy your new build, it's going to be amazing! If you PM me I'll add you on Steam and we can play some games together when your build is all set!

I think you might get pointed towards /r/headphoneadvice, looks like purchase requests are supposed to go there, but if I can spent the time telling you that I can spend the time giving you some recommendations too!

If you're looking for something you can use while working out, you're probably going to want to avoid over-ear headphones. These are typically designed for relaxed listening or sitting still, so not an ideal choice for the gym or a jog. In case you're curious about over-ears however, or you want a dedicated pair that you won't use for working out, an exceptional choice right now is the Sennheiser HD 58X from Massdrop, currently available for $135. Just know that those are going to be fairly large headphones, and they're "open-back" meaning they make no effort to keep outside sound out, or inside sound in. They're designed to be used in quiet rooms. An office-mate may hear what you're listening to if they're close enough. The sound quality from a good pair of open-backs however can't be beat!

For working out, I'd say something within either the on-ear or in-ear categories would suit you well. On-ear headphones are typically much lighter and smaller, which makes them far better suited for working out. The same goes for in-ears, their size and the nature of the fit make them almost impossible to knock out of your ears.

For on-ears, you might look at something like the Koss KSC75x, 14 bucks on Amazon or the Koss Porta Pros, 25 bucks on Massdrop. If you make a new account for the "20 dollars off orders of 30+" coupon and choose 5 dollar shipping, you can manipulate the price down to 10 bucks. It's honestly probably the best deal in audio right now! I just jumped on that deal myself actually! Both are solid for working out since they're so light, and both are known for their surprisingly good audio quality despite their price tag and retro look.

Now for in-ears, you might check out the Tin T2s, $35 on Massdrop right now. They're widely regarded as the best IEMs below 200 bucks if what you're looking for is quality neutral sound. If you prefer a little more bass, you can always perform the very simple "vent mod" which just involves taping up a small hole. They have excellent isolation, and use what's called an MMCX connection, so you can replace the cable if yours ever breaks or you want a different one. I've owned a pair of these, and I loved them.

So all in all, you're looking at well below 50 bucks for a pair of good headphones that you can work out with, but also use at home or work. If you want to really step into high-end audio, you could grab a $10 pair of Porta Pros for working out and the HD 58X for $135 for really high quality office/home listening/gaming/whatnot.

Not OP, but we've deployed Ubiquiti products in a few of our enterprise customers and it is running great. I am not sure how much you already know about networking, but I'll explain for anyone else reading.

First, some background to fully understand what it is you are trying to do. The thing that most consumers call "routers" are really three things: a router, a switch, and an access point. TLDR the router portion is the thing that actually moves traffic between machines, the switch extends how many physical ethernet ports you have, and the access point gives you wifi.

The Ubiquiti Access Points (UAP) are just access points. You will still need a router to route traffic, and your consumer one will work just fine for most people. If you are looking to get something more SOHO, Ubiquiti also makes their own router/firewall (check out USG, or ideally EdgeRouter). For all intents and purposes, it is a pretty good idea to separate the roles of your network (physical appliances for the router, firewall, wireless, etc...), and you can have as many UAP's as you'd like for wireless. The UAP's run off of Ubiquiti's 24V Power-over-Ethernet (POE), which can be provided via a POE injector or with a Ubiquiti Switch (either Unifi or EdgeMax). So for a basic network, you'll disable the wireless functionality on your consumer router, and plug a UAP into a port (obviously you'll need to pass it through the POE injector first). Rinse and repeat for however many UAP's you want, maybe another one on the other side of the house for example.

The UAP is pretty useless on its own, though. It needs a piece of software called the Unifi Controller. The software is free, and you can run it on Windows, Linux, or with Ubiquiti's appliance called the Cloud Key. Within Unifi Controller, you'll setup the UAP's; e.g. setting the visible wifi name (SSID), security, channels, etc... It isn't too complicated, the interface is really intutive and anyone who is even slightly technical could figure it out. The controller also serves another really important feature, which is zero-handoff. As long as the controller is running, your device will connect to the access point with the best signal. This is the seamless switching you asked about.

Ubiquiti also is focused on mesh networking, although we are generally pretty against that for businesses for reliability reasons. Of course, the exception to that is Cisco Meraki, which is a hybrid that will self-heal. If you lie and say you are an IT professional, you can get a free Meraki with a 3 year license. Just make sure that you follow the rules.

As a note, I would stick to the UAP AC's. They are the newer version and run great. For consumers, the UAP-AC-LITE is going to work fine. Obviously there is more to networking and wireless solutions than what I went over here, but this is the general gist of it.

It does help! I’ve been out of the loop laptop-wise for a while, but I’m still pretty in touch specs-wise. If what you want is a portable machine with whatever battery life that can play r6 and MMO’s, you would a laptop with an intel Core i5 7th gen, (or amd equivalent), a gtx 1060 (or amd equivalent), 16 gb of ddr 4 ram, a 1080p screen with 60hz (I highly recommend 120hz or greater) and whatever storage you want. All this is with future proofing for at least a year in mind

But, you can blow all of those specs out of the water with a budget of up to 2000$. I would recommend you buy a machine that will last you a while. For your CPU, an intel Core i7 8750hq, for your GPU (graphics card) an rtx 2060, 16 gb of ddr 4 ram clocked at 2400mhz, and, again, whatever storage you want.

(Keep in mind that and SSD is better than a hard drive in that it’s load times for whatever is stored onto there is a lot faster than a hard drive). I also recommend a 1080p screen with a 120hz refresh rate or higher.

Anyways, hope this helps! Please ask any questions in DM’s or this thread! I’ll probably go and edit this comment later with some laptop recommendations because now I’m invested.

Acer Predator Helios 300 for 1200$

I also highly encourage you to check out the YouTube channel Jarrod’s Tech Review as he does really good reviews on gaming laptops. There’s a lot of techno-speak, but he’s very in-depth and I trust his opinion on recommendations.

I also like Dave Lee just try and steer clear of the razor blade laptops. They are very good laptops with very good performance and specs, and they look beautiful, but they’re overpriced in my opinion and outside your budget of 2000$.

Let me go over my picks for you.

Number 1 best value: Acer 240HY. 23.8", IPS, and almost no bezels. 60hz, so pretty great for the price, with HDMI.

Number 1 best 144hz gaming monitor: Viewsonic XG2401/2701. It has freesync, the best color of all sub $300 monitors, and can rotate into portrait mode if needed. This monitor is fantastic if you have an AMD graphics card. If you do not, however, you'll either want a G-sync monitor (Much pricier) or go for a Benq and save money, since those lack freesync (Which doesn't benefit Nvidia cards anyway) but still have fantastic ratings.

Speaking of which, this is the best 144hz monitor without Freesync or Gsync. BenQ XL2411Z

Want a fantastic cheap Freesync monitor? Look no further than any size of these Viewsonics. Viewsonic VX series. All are 60hz but overclockable to 75hz (Nice!) and they all have freesync. I'd still recommend the #1 monitor I listed first, since IPS will probably be a lot better on your eyes, but these are great alternatives if you want a cheap gaming monitor and have an AMD card.

Want 144hz gaming but you're a cheapskate? No problem. Either buy the AOC G2460PF (Freesync!) which doesn't look quite as good as the Viewsonic I mentioned second but is $60 cheaper, or go for the Atron Vision AVF24 for an alternate, highly rated but lacking Freesync monitor. You can even get them used off Amazon for $150ish too!

Personally, I think for you, the first monitor I listed is your #1 best bet, BUT you can, if you really want to pinch pennies, go for the Acer H236L 23" monitor and buy it refurbished for almost exactly $100. It's also a bezel-less monitor, looks okay, and has high ratings. Personally, based on my research though, if you're going to buy this one new, go instead for the Acer I listed at the top, since it's IPS and this one is LCD. It still seems the better deal.

Happy shopping!

1. Audio-Technica ATH-M50x Great over ear headphones, more bass driven, but pretty well rounded sound. Good for being submersed in your music.
   
2. Sennheiser HD 598 Awesome open ear headphones, nice and roomy sound. (open back headphones allow outside sound in.) Great for acoustics and softer music.
   
3. FiiO EX1 My daily driver, which are surprisingly really nice. Great balanced sound for In ear, super comfortable too. Punchy bass when needed and handles light and relaxed music with good highs.

• Budget: ~$150 USD
  
• Source: PC (Gaming), if they rock maybe my phone.
  
• Isolation: Unsure, usually I use closed headphones. But I hear the ATH-700xs are great for CS:GO and are open. Wouldn't mind trying open ear.
  
• Public: Probably not.
  
• Size: Full sized over ear headset.
  
• Tonal Balance: I like my bass in music, but these headphones are for CS:GO almost exclusively, was seeing good things about the ATH-700xs being light on the bass and it helping not drown out footsteps. I'd prefer more bass for my music but CS is the priority.
  
• Previous Headphones: For gaming I have had SteelSeries Siberia v2, didn't like the sound quality. Comfort was good. HyperX Cloud 1s sound quality quite a bit better, comfort about the same. Currently using the clouds. I have had Beats in the past, they were alright, on par with my $100 pair of Klipsch headphones. I quite enjoyed the Klipsch over ears, not sure what type specifically.
  
• Music Taste: Almost exclusively hiphop, with some 80s rock and a little folk/pop mixed in.
  
• What I want to improve: I want a better headset for CS:GO. My Cloud 1s were pretty solid but the quality has deteriorated over time.
  
  My three main considerations now are: ATH AD700x, Sennheiser GAME ONE, Sennheiser PC363D. Although I do not have USB 3 will that matter at all? I do not need 7.1 sound. The AKG K612 Pro seems around my price range and is reviewed quite well. It seems like the ATH-AD700xs are the headphones to go for as they are about half the price as the rest of the options I suggested. Is it worth spending the extra money on any of those headsets? Also do I need to consider an AMP of any sort for these headphones? I was recommended something such as the FiiO E10k earlier. Not sure if I need an amp or not, I would be willing to purchase one if it allows for me to unlock the full potential of my headset. But not just to spend money on another toy and eek out another 1% or 2% of performance.
  
  Thanks a ton for reading! Any insight is more than welcome.

• Budget
  
  $100-$300 flexible
  
  
• Source
  
  3.5mm jack on a laptop
  
  
• Where you mainly will use your headphones
  
  At work and perhaps occasional flights. Office doesn't have much chatter but has very annoying drone sounds from HVAC and buzzy fluorescent lights
  
  
• Requirements for Isolation
  
  The sweet spot would block out droning sounds but not people trying to get my attention without raising their voice
  
  
• Will you be using these Headphones in Public?
  
  Just at work and perhaps occasional flights. It's important to me that sound doesn't leak out to others.
  
  
• Preferred Type of Headphone
  
  I think full-sized, but on-ear may be OK too if comfortable for all-day use
  
  
• Preferred tonal balance
  
  Overall balanced
  
  
• Past headphones
  
  At home I've used in the past Sennheiser 280 pro (too busted up now and were never comfortable to wear for more than a couple hours) and currently Sennheiser HD 598SE. The latter in particular I love, very happy with the sound and they're terrifically comfortable to wear for hours on end. I'd probably just buy a second pair of these for work if I had some reason to believe they'd block/cancel the drone sounds well and they weren't open-back.
  
  
• Preferred Music
  
  Electronic, classical, jazz, talk radio
  
  
• What would you like to improve on from your set-up
  
  Currently I'm using cheapo in-ear buds at work and it's awful. While they're fairly comfortable for extended use, even at louder volumes they don't mask the drone sounds very well. Probably what I would value most in a set of headphones for this office would be noise-cancelling, comfortable for all-day use, and no leakage (closed-back). An attached microphone would not be a deal-breaker but doesn't matter either way.
  
  
• Things I don't know
  
  I've never owned a pair of active noise cancelling headphones. Is it a gimmick? Are they effective for something like this? Can I get a quality pair at this budget that meets my needs and has this feature? Or is it better to forget it and instead focus on something that (without too much bulk!) "muffles" well?
  
  Thank you!

I think your best bet is to use Chromecast Audios (CCA), as some others have recommended.

We bought our first CCA right when they came out, and we hooked it up to a pair of speakers in the kitchen. We quickly bought two more, eventually adding two Google Homes (which can also participate in speaker groups with CCAs), bringing us to five speakers spread throughout our apartment. So we've been using our Chromecast Audios for well over two years, now, and I can't make any significant complaints.

The synced multiroom audio works great, and the Google Home app lets you adjust the volume collectively (if there's a quieter song or album) as well as on each individual speaker. You can create multiple groups of speakers, and each speaker can be in as many groups as you like, so you could have, for example, All Speakers, Upstairs Speakers, and Downstairs Speakers if you wanted. You can cast separate audio to separate speakers, and even cast separate audio to separate speaker groups if you want. We regularly use our setup to put on music in the living room and kitchen when we have company, as well as to play podcasts in the whole apartment when we're doing chores in separate rooms or while moving room to room.

A big thing that I like about the CCA versus smart speakers is that it's easy to upgrade my sound quality without having to re-buy a whole speaker. When we got them, we were able to use them with whatever speakers we already had, basically getting a bunch of smart speakers for $35 a pop (or less if there's a sale on). Then, when one of the inputs on my (ancient, but still good-sounding) Altec Lansing computer speakers started to go bad, I got a nice new set of speakers for my computer and moved the old Altec Lansings to the bedroom, replacing a cheaper, lower-quality speaker set that also had only one input.

As far as quality goes, I'm wouldn't call myself an "audiophile", but I enjoy listening to music and I want good sound quality. I've been consistently pleased with the Chromecast Audio. Hooked up to a good quality set of speakers like my Edifier R1280T* that I have on my computer, the CCA sounds great. If you have (or acquire in the future) an analog HiFi stereo system, the CCA also offers the option of outputting full dynamic range audio. It also has optical output built into the stereo minijack, so you can hook it up to a newer A/V receiver that takes digital optical input, like equipment you might have as part of a surround sound system.

If you want to start with a sound bar, there are a number of manufacturers who actually ship speakers and soundbars that have Chromecast Audio functionality built-in. They will operate just like a regular speaker with a CCA attached to it. You can cast to them individually, add them to speaker groups or control them with a Google Home. Of course, you could also buy a soundbar without that feature and just hook a CCA into one of its inputs (most have multiple inputs, as far as I know).

Sorry if that got kind of long, but I wanted to answer all your separate questions and be fairly thorough.

----------------------------------

* These aren't super cheap speakers, but I'd give them a very good recommendation for a speaker with excellent sound quality at a non budget-breaking price. I also think they look good in a variety of different rooms and decor styles. There's another model, basically identical, but with more input options that I'm planning to buy to replace our aging Philips stereo system for our living room TV.

Sorry this will be a lot of information, but when you're buying something that sits on your ears for hours at a time, you want something that feels good.

Newegg has the Gamecom 780 on sale right now for 28 bucks. They usually float around 50-60 bucks so it's a really good deal. The only problem with them is they're not very drop friendly as they're plastic. The audio and mic quality are amazing for the price though.

If wireless is more his speed a Corsair H2100 is in your price range or a Logitech G930. I just recently bought a Corsair VOID on sale for 95 bucks and it was the best decision I've made in a long time, best wireless headset I've used. (but normal price is about 120)

Links:

Gamecom 780 priced 27.99

Corsair H2100 priced 99.99

Logitech G930 priced 84.36

Corsair VOID wireless priced 129.99

Pro's and Cons:

Gamecom 780

• Pro: One of the best gaming headsets in the $50 range.
  
• Pro: Easy to setup software, buttons on headset are easy to reach and use
  
• Con: Very prone to breaking, if they fall the wrong way, they're toast
  
• Con: Wired, I belive a 6 foot cable. Very limiting in distance (if you buy one of these buy a USB extension as well)
  
  Corsair H2100
  
  
• Pro: Very good entry wireless headset, clear mic audio and decent sound quality
  
• Pro: Wireless so no cables in the way
  
• Con: Battery life
  
• Con: Distance is short before cutout
  
  Logitech G930
  
  
• Pro: Easy to use and reliable
  
• Pro: Good range on headset (longer than H2100 and roughly same as VOID)
  
• Pro: Build quality is nice, audio quality is decent
  
• Con: Wireless receivers die before the headset does (will start with randomly dropping connection)
  
• Con: Mic gets white noise in it
  
• Con: Not very loud/Charge doesn't last long
  
  Corsair VOID RGB
  
  
• Pro: Strong build quality, clear mic, great battery life
  
• Pro: Good quality audio, can go very loud, bass drivers are decent
  
• Pro: Long range, Similar to G930
  
• Con: Software interferes with some other programs currently, Corsair is working on a fix (The headset does not require the software, it is just used to control simulated surround sound and lighting)
  
• Con: Feels loose on your head, the mesh fabric makes it slide against your hair
  
• Con: Users have reported turning on/off the headset can sometimes put the headset into a failed mode, and require being plugged into the computer to fix (i have not experienced this and could have been fixed in a firmware update already)

Hey Crimson! I have a pretty good amount of experience with camera work for my gaming videos!


I'm not sure what your budget looks like, so I'll start with the cheapest solutions first.


I would suggest the most easily obtainable camera for live action stuff would be just to simply use your smart phone! For example, the iPhone camera shoots with a Sony CMOS sensor in full HD! Just make sure you stabilize it on a tripod or flat surface because the auto image stabilizer is pretty terrible at times. Secondly, if you do choose this option, I would highly recommend using a different audio source. Smart phones traditionally don't always have the best audio recorders on board.


A web cam is probably your second best solution! Full HD cams can run about 50-100 bucks, but they usually get the job done. Though again, with all these recommendations, I'd suggest you use an alternative microphone for audio.


If your not willing to use cheaper alternatives like a smart phone or a webcam, then I think your best bet would be the GoPro. These products are massively popular for a reason; they can provide BEAUTIFUL footage if used correctly. You can probably find one of these bad boys USED for under 200 on craigslist. For the relatively small price tag, this is one of the best all purpose cameras on the market.


Finally, if you have a decent budget at your disposal, I'd suggest the T3i. If you only plan on using this camera for rare occasions, then I'd advise against purchasing it. However, if your hoping your channel would rely heavily on live action content, then this is it. This is your solution! It might end up running you a little over 500 bucks, but this is the camera a majority of youtube creators have been using. There is a slight learning curve, but when you get the hang of it, your videos will look fantastic.


Like I said though, never use the on board audio recorders these solutions provide for you. Buy a separate microphone if quality is a big concern for you in your videos!

250?! Okay then, this will be fun :)

Just remember though, that higher number in headphones series does not always mean better. eg DT880 > DT770 is not always true. Yours focus more on bass and treble, while the middle ground is left out, Also called V shaped headphone. While the 880's are neutral on most areas, while emphasizing mostly on the treble. Two completely different things, all comes down to taste :)


*****

• Audio Technica ATH-AD500X Open Back [$79.95] Permanent cable.
  
  *****
  
  
• Audio Technica ATH-AD700X Open-Back [$94 on sale.] Permanent cable.
  
  *****
  
  
• Audio Technica ATH-AD900X Open-Back [$138.94] Permanent cable.
  
  *****
  
  
• Audio Technica ATH-AD1000X Open-Back [$293.99] Permanent cable.
  Over budget I know, but this is also where we reach a new level. You can look at the Z-Reviews of the AD series headphones. He's missing the 700x's, but has most others :)
  
  
  All AD headphones are fantastic, they do get increasingly better up untill 900x. Where the 2000x, 1000x and 900x can come down to taste. I prefer the 1000's over the rest as they contain a bit of midbass, while the 2000's are super clear and analytical, where those who listen to classical music will absolutely orgasm over them.
  I've specifically bought AD velour earpads over the standard leather pads on my own headphones, because of the amazing comfort.
  
  
  
• Beydynamic DT990 Semi-Open-Back [32 Ohm] [$146.97] Permanent cable.
  
  
  *****
  
• Philips X2/27 Fidelio Premium [$254.18] Detachable cable. Replaceable earpads.
  Often compared with Sennheiser HD600 [$400]. People have complained that the sound of the X2's has been bad, but it turns out the headphones are actually exposing poorly mastered/rendered music. It also has a massive soundstage, this is a winner for games where listening matters. You can see impressions over at Head-Fi, these are people who own multiple headphones in the $1000 zone, so don't be afraid of a mediocre rating.
  30ohm, so even a phone can power them fine.
  
  *****
  
• Philips SHP9500 Open-Back [$75.95] Detachable cable.
  Said to be among the most comfortable objects one can place on the head. Also a very good soundstage, not in the X2's category, but still good.
  
  *****
  
  
• Z-Reviews: What makes Good Gaming Headphones? He also debunks surround headsets' marketing. It's not better.
  
  *****
  
  I know there is a boatload of things here to pick from, but promise me to research into these things and maybe find something else I haven't mentioned. Headphones or headsets for that matter are an investment and should last +5 years.
  
  Happy listening! :)

Here's a few options. Depending on where you are in the world some might be more feasible than others. I'm talking from a UK perspective, YMMV.

• Sennheiser HD598 + Antlion ModMic. Can't speak for the quality of the modmic but I own the HD598's and adore them, they're almost unbeatable. The ModMic is essentially a headset mic with velcro pads included so that you can stick it onto pretty much any set of headphones that has space for it.
  
  
• Phillips Fidelio X2 + V-Moda Boompro mic. This is a good option because the Fidelio X2's have a standard 3.5mm port meaning you can plug any 3.5mm mic into it, including the V-Moda Boompro which is essentially a headset mic that can be unplugged (though of much better quality imo). Again, can personally attest to quality as I own both. The X2's are £130 on Amazon rn which is a goddamn goddamn steal in my opinion, but they're better for music than gaming (again, my opinion, it's slightly subjective). They'll still thrash any headset but they don't quite compare to the HD598's for competitive gaming.
  
  
• Speaking of Phillips and 3.5mm ports, a cheaper option than the X2's would be the Philips SHP9500/00. Same benefits as the X2's, but in this case they + the V-Moda Boompro will run you about as much as the X2's alone would. Can't speak for sound quality, haven't tried them, but I hear they're very good.
  
  
• Another option would be the Audio Technica AD700x; from what I have heard this is pretty much the end game for gaming cans. They're legendary, beating out the HD598's by a small margin; small enough that really it's personal preference as to whether you go for these or the Sennheisers. Both will do you proud. Again, an Antlion ModMic would be your best option here, you won't be able to fit a V-Moda Boompro as like with Sennheiser, the AD700x uses a proprietary port.
  
  
• Finally, if you got the cash, you could go for the Audio Technica ATH-ADG1X; essentially Audio Technica have cut out the need for a third party mic by adding their own; it's a headset. The downside to this is that it's expensive for what it is, and you probably leave yourself open to the kinds of issues you'd have with standard headsets (more likely to fail, harder/more expensive to fix if they do). Not really sure how much you'd have to worry about this since it's genuine quality; not the £15 of components stuffed into a £100 headset that passes for "gaming headsets" these days. TimTheTatMan uses one of these on Twitch if I'm not mistaken.
  
  So that's what I recommend. Any option you pick here will theoretically last you a great many years, if not a lifetime, and will outperform any gaming headset. This is because manufacturers of these headsets will spend a tiny amount of cash on the components and a large amount of cash on marketing them, meaning when you buy a gaming headset you're really paying for them to sell it to you. Stuff like I've listed above is all word of mouth; passes the savings onto the consumer who gets a quality product at a good price.
  They're all open backed, meaning they leak sound out and allow outside sound in; the benefit of this is that you get a wider soundstage, which in regard to gaming essentially means better 3D positioning. You can pick out things like footsteps and locate where they're coming from with a great degree of ease.
  
  HD598: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sennheiser-HD-598SR-Over-Ear-Headphone-Black/dp/B06WLGRYSF/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1521973971&sr=1-1&keywords=HD+598
  
  Fidelio X2: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Philips-X2-Headphones-Over-Ear-Cushions-Black/dp/B00MRUPSHQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521974003&sr=8-1&keywords=Fidelio+x2
  
  Phillips SHP9500/00: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Philips-SHP9500-00-Headphone/dp/B00ENMK1DW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521974021&sr=8-1&keywords=shp9500
  
  Audio Technica AD700X: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Audio-Technica-ATH-AD700X-backed-Hi-Fi-headphones/dp/B009S332TQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1521974053&sr=8-1&keywords=ad700x
  
  Audio Technica ADG1X: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Audio-Technica-ATH-ADG1X-High-Fidelity-Open-Air-Headset/dp/B01AYZZP5U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521973470&sr=8-1&keywords=audio+technica+headset
  
  V-Moda Boompro: https://www.amazon.co.uk/V-MODA-BoomPro-Microphone-Gaming-Communication/dp/B00BJ17WKK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521974126&sr=8-1&keywords=v-moda+boompro
  
  Antlion ModMic: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Antlion-Audio-ModMic-Attachable-Microphone-Uni-Directional-Muteless/dp/B00R98O6R4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521974091&sr=8-2&keywords=antlion+modmic

No problem. I really don't know what monitor, but I HIGHLYYY suggest and almost as this point require you to get an IPS display lol...its BEAUTIFUL. There are some high end gaming ones(qniq or something) which are 1440p, IPS, 27", 120hz refresh rate gaming monitors. I think you can only buy them online though, never used or seen one.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CIZZ0QO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I have this monitor as well as another older 24" TN monitor and the difference is night and day. I really like the one on that amazon page although I wish I had gone 27"(mainly because I have the space for it). I prefer matte finish over gloss, 2-5ms reponse time is the best you can get, and 60hz refresh is the standard(gaming monitors go to 120, but I dont think we have any besides the qniq that are IPS as well).

I7's are fine for multithreaded stuff(photoshop, video processing, animation, etc) and while some games may take advantage, it depends on what games you play. Most of the games right now utilize the GPU more so than the cpu(may change in a few years, nobody knows; i heard witcher 3 recommends an i7). If you WANT to spend the money, an i7 is fine to get. It might come in handy later, it might not which is why I didn't add it. It's not a bad idea, it's just that you may never utilize it fully. The i7 is on sale at microcenter right now so you'd be adding about 80$ to your build which at this point would probably be worth it(normally it's $339). I have a feeling you really want to spend the money and get something that will last so in that case getting 2x8gb of RAM would be worth it as well.

http://cpuboss.com/cpus/Intel-Core-i7-4790K-vs-Intel-Core-i5-4690K

http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2187021/true-4790k-4690k-dont-benifit-gaming.html

With the i7 4790k and now I upped you to 16gb of 2x8gb RAM:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $279.99 @ Micro Center
CPU Cooler | Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler | $99.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | MSI Z97S SLI Krait Edition ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $99.99 @ Newegg
Memory | Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $119.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $188.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $44.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | MSI GeForce GTX 980 4GB Twin Frozr Video Card | $549.99 @ SuperBiiz
Case | Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $107.99 @ SuperBiiz
Power Supply | SeaSonic M12II 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $114.99 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Noctua NF-A14 PWM 82.5 CFM 140mm Fan | $23.99 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Noctua NF-A14 PWM 82.5 CFM 140mm Fan | $23.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1674.89
| Mail-in rebates | -$20.00
| Total | $1654.89
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-13 21:20 EDT-0400 |

edit: http://www.amazon.com/BenQ-GW2765HT-27-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor/dp/B00KYCSRSG/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1426296104&sr=1-1&keywords=benq+27+inch+monitor+2560x1440 This is a decent monitor, I've heard good things about BenQ but never used one myself.

http://www.amazon.com/PB278Q-27-Inch-LED-lit-Professional-Graphics/dp/B009C3M7H0/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1426296300&sr=1-1 This is another Asus one you can look at.

You could also consider getting 2x24" IPS displays and setting them up side by side. The two I've listed below here are 2560x1440p so the resolution is much more than the 24" ones.

The R9 390 is much, much cheaper and offers same or better performance. I made a few changes. Here's each change, and why.

i5-4690k: can still be overclocked, but since you mentioned nothing about streaming, the i7 is pretty much unnecessary. The price difference between the i5 and i7 is not big enough to warrant so much money unless the i7's hyperthreading really benefits you. In most games (recently, poorly optimized games like fallout 4 have been wanting an i7), the i7 will offer little, if any benefit.

Cooler: Less noise. Lower temps.

RAM: Cheaper. Same performance, still a reliable brand and 16gb.

SSD: Newer. Better in all ways.

Video card: Literally the best card on the market right now. If you're staying at 1080p, I recommend the AMD R9 390, but this GTX980ti is top of the line and there's pretty much nothing better that isn't called a Titan. Offers huge 1440p performance.

PSU: Not overpriced as hell, but still provides efficiency and good power delivery and stability. Also, you could proooobably add a second 980ti if you want to play at 4k and have to buy a new PSU.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $227.99 @ SuperBiiz
CPU Cooler | CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler | $34.50 @ Newegg
Thermal Compound | Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste | $4.55 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | Asus Z97-A ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $139.89 @ OutletPC
Memory | G.Skill Sniper Gaming Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $62.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $84.88 @ OutletPC
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.98 @ OutletPC
Video Card | MSI GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card | $596.99 @ NCIX US
Case | Corsair 500R Black ATX Mid Tower Case | $109.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $101.99 @ NCIX US
Optical Drive | Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer | $17.78 @ OutletPC
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) | $89.99 @ NCIX US
Case Fan | Cougar Vortex PWM 70.5 CFM 120mm Fan | $14.89 @ OutletPC
Case Fan | Cougar Vortex PWM 70.5 CFM 120mm Fan | $14.89 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1551.30
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-09 16:44 EST-0500 |


Wifi card that supports bluetooth: http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Bluetooth-Expansion-Components-GC-WB867D-I/dp/B00HF8K0O6

I only deal with open headphones so here's what I'd recommend. You can skip an amp with any of these and be fine.

Audio-Technica ath-ad900x - I have these with the exact setup you want. The modmic was a little annoying to get to attach right but it hasn't fallen off. They sound great but not a ton of low end. The head suspension thing is comfy but kinda fiddly. Steal a worn out hair tie from your girl and put it between the arms and then forget it's there. Recommended without hesitation.

Sennheiser HD598 - warm sound, comfy. Not much to say, they're easy to listen to, easy to drive, and they're reasonably priced. Also recommend without hesitation.

I'd advise against the DT-990s unless you can return them if you don't like them. The v-shape sound is very polarizing and you'll either like it or you won't. I found the highs to be like an ice pick to the brain with most things I listened to. Some well produced stuff sounded great but they're fatiguing to listen to. They are also the most uncomfortable headphones I've ever put on my head, ymmv. I returned them.

If you feel like hitting the top of your budget I LOVE my Philips Fidelio X2. These actually replaced my Audio-Technicas as my daily driver. Great bass, good mid range, little grainy on the highs but it isn't harsh and how much depends on the recording. They're really comfortable but also a little on the heavy side. Again, recommend you buy from somewhere you can return just in case.

Any other questions let me know.

I definitely recommend getting a different subwoofer; every system I recommend using these Pioneer speakers has left out the subwoofer in favor for another one.

With your budget I would do this.

• Your $400 receiver that you're set on
  
• Wait for a sale on the Pioneer BS22's which frequently go on sale on Amazon for under $100 a pair. Get 2 of these (a pair for the fronts and another pair for surrounds). Since you'll be getting a nice subwoofer, you won't need the bass extension of the floorstanders; the sub will take care of this. So $200 total for fronts and surrounds.
  
• The center channel frequently goes on sale for $75 on Amazon (currently it's around $100).
  
  So you have a 5.0 system with your receiver for $675.
  
  A few subwoofer options depending on how much you want to spend on one. Note that all of these are significant upgrades over the Pioneer subwoofer.
  
  
• Dayton Sub 1200 ($130): http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-SUB-1200-12-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B00669L3HS The cheapest subwoofer I would actually recommend for a home theater setup. A nice review here: http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/speaker-subwoofer-reviews/71766-dayton-audio-sub-1200-subwoofer-review.html
  
  
• BIC F12 ($185) a step up from the Daytons in terms of output: http://www.amazon.com/BIC-America-F12-475-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B0015A8Y5M
  
  
• NXG NX-BAS-500 (on sale for $234) http://www.radioshack.com/nxg-nx-bas-500-12-500-watt-powered-subwoofer/55058551.html I use this subwoofer for my office. Good output and surprisingly musical for the price. IMO, this is the best subwoofer under $300. A review here: http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/speaker-subwoofer-reviews/67178-nxg-nx-bas-500-subwoofer-review.html
  
  
• Then there's a large gap where I don't feel there's a ton of improvement in the price range up to $500. One noticeable exception is the Hsu STF-2 for $375 (http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/stf-2.html), but I would actually push my budget more if you start spending this much...the next subwoofers are well worth the price difference.
  
  
• SVS PB1000, $500 http://www.svsound.com/subwoofers/ported-box/pb-1000 The REAL subwoofers start in at $500 and this is the lowest priced real one. Good for music, great for home theater. Another option that goes on sale for $500 with free shipping is this one: https://www.outlawaudio.com/products/lfm1plus.html It's a bit of an upgrade over the PB-1000, so at the same price, it's definitely the better value when on sale.
  
  
• This is the subwoofer I use for my personal home theater, the Rythmik LV12R, $600: http://www.rythmikaudio.com/LV12R.html It's tight, articulate, precise, and has ample output for medium sized rooms. Awesome for both music and movies. A review here: http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/speaker-subwoofer-reviews/67309-rythmik-lv12r-subwoofer-review.html
  
  If your budget is even higher than that, let me know and we can figure out a very nice subwoofer for the price. Judging by your initial budget, however, I feel like this is a good list to start looking at.

My current setup is just a quick and dirty budget (sub 1000$) system I hooked up to enjoy my music.

I bought this entry level Sony receiver, some Sony and Pioneer speakers that all hover around 100-125 watts and this bargain beauty of a subwoofer.

That subwoofer is absolutely amazing and on sale for 300$ off listing price with free shipping if you have Prime. Rich and full sound, not overpowering, good harmony.. You might really be surprised by how full of nuance the audio can be from that sub.

Overall, I'm super satisfied with what I accomplished. Especially for the price. Everything sounds good, I'm especially pleased with the sub and receiver. The speakers are so-so, they're not bad but they're not especially great, either. Good sound for good value.

As for technology.. I just have the Chromecast hooked into one of the hdmi inputs from the receiver. The receiver supports hdmi-cec (if the receiver is off and the input becomes active, it'll turn on) but I just leave it on standby (along with the subwoofer) anyway. Same result, just the power is on and the system is on sleep instead of power off.

I have the speakers and subwoofer hooked up directly to the receiver (copper for speakers, line in for sub).

The first thing is deciding what your budget is and what you want to accomplish. D'you want a 5,1 surround system? Are the acoustics of your house/apartment such that you can designate one room for audio and be able to hear the music from every other room? How are you going to be playing music? Are you gonna stream it from online? A local server/drive? D'you need your equipment to natively have wifi? Will you use an adapter? A Chromecast? For example, Sonos doesn't (yet?) offer hdmi in, are you ok with using an audio splitter/extractor? Questions like that.

500-1000$, especially if you shop around a bit, compare, read reviews etc, will get you good to great audio at bang for your buck to start off with.

I would not buy the HP laptop for the following reasons:

1. It only has a 1366x768 resolution screen. The lower the resolution, the less information you can see on the screen at once. Try setting the resolution on your laptop's screen or desktop monitor to 1366x768 to see what it looks like. Note that setting the resolution below the native (max) resolution will make text look a little blurry. I generally a 1080p screen (1920x1080).
   
2. The laptop relies on the Intel UHD 620 graphics core. While it can be used to play some non-graphically demanding games (like some old games from before 2012) or some indie games; it is generally not recommend for games that can be rather demanding like Fornite or Overwatch. They are not very demanding games at all compared to something like the Witcher 3, but they are not games ideal for the Intel UHD 620 especially Fornite.
   
   ​
   
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   The following Acer Aspire E15 E5-576G-5762 laptop for $560 represents the best bang for the buck when it comes to gaming performance. It is the least expensive laptop with the nVidia mx150 which is more powerful than the integrated Vega 8 graphics core in the Ryzen 5 2500u APU which is in the Dell Inspirion 15 5000 laptop. However, it is a heavier laptop at 5.27lbs and it comes with a smaller 256GB SSD.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Acer-Aspire-i5-8250U-GeForce-E5-576G-5762/dp/B075FLBJV7/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=mx150+laptop&qid=1563814234&s=gateway&sr=8-3
   
   ​
   
   The ASUS Vivobook K570ZD for $640 represents the least expensive laptop with the nvidia GTX 1050 which is definitely more powerful than nVidia mx150 in the Acer laptop. It is paired with the 1st generation Ryzen 5 2500u APU. It only has a 256GB SSD, and it weighs in at 4.32lbs according to the specs listed on Amazon. Be aware that the battery is usually the heaviest component in a laptop. Laptops typically sacrifice battery life in exchange for being lighter. Never trust what the brand name advertises for battery life. That is usually extremely optimistic; in this case Asus advertises 9 hours. The rule of thumb is cut what is advertised in half when doing things that are not CPU and / or graphically intensive. If playing games, then cut that in half again (if not more). Read user reviews to get a better idea though.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Vivobook-GeForce-Fingerprint-Backlit/dp/B07MKLLVFZ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=gtx+1050+laptop&qid=1563818215&s=gateway&sr=8-3
   
   ​
   
   Acer Nitro 5 (2017 version) with Intel i5-7300HQ and GTX 1050 Ti. This is absolutely the most powerful gaming laptop for less than $700; it's $698. The GTX 1050 Ti is probably about 25% more powerful than the GTX 1050. It only has a 256GB SSD.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Acer-Gaming-i5-7300HQ-GeForce-AN515-51-55WL/dp/B074Q54GSR/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=gtx+1050+laptop&qid=1563818575&s=gateway&sr=8-10
   
   ​
   
   I purchased the 2018 version as a gift which has the newer Intel i5-8300H which is slightly more powerful thant the i5-7300HQ, but still has the GTX 1050 Ti. I can tell you that battery life is short at 3.5 hours with average usage. I assume the i5-7300HQ can get hot similar to the i5-8300H CPU. I recommend downloading a program called ThrottleStop to undervolt the CPU. Google for instructions on how to use ThrottleStop. Out of the box the i5-8300H hit 95c when I was stressing the CPU, using ThrottleStop helped reduce that to about 86c. That's considered "warm". You can leave it as is, but if you want lower temps, then the thermal paste would need to be replaced with something good like Artic MX-4 (or the more expensive but highly praised Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut). Doing so decreased the max temp to something like 77c from what I recall (as stated it was purchased to be given as a gift). However, doing so does void the warranty so if you do not want to risk loosing the warranty, then do not replace the thermal paste until after the warranty has ended.

I've had my HD598s for a couple years now and while they've been a huge upgrade from my previous headsets (things like the logitech gaming headsets) I've been looking at getting a semi-significant upgrade. I've been mostly looking at the HD650s, 700s and the AKG k712s, trying to find a good balance of looks cool (I really like the k712 design) and sounds good (only heard good things about the 650s and mostly positive about the 700s, but I'm not a huge fan of the latter's looks).

Disclaimer: I'm very new to general headphones shopping so forgive my inexperience here.

----

Budget - $400-500USD, fairly flexible

Source - My desktop, through a to-be-determined DAC/amp (currently have an e10k but I've been eyeing The Element for quite some time, if anyone has any input on that that'd be great too)

Requirements for Isolation - None

Will you be using these Headphones in Public? - No

Preferred Type of Headphone - Full-sized/over-ear

Preferred tonal balance - Haven't experienced a huge variety of headphones to say for sure or really develop a strong preference, but I do like some good bass. Hopefully looking for something that will pack a bit more of a punch than my 598s.

Past headphones - The aforementioned 598s. As I said the bass isn't super great on them, but I understand that that's just kind of how it is with open-back cans, and I don't particularly hate that about them, just something I'd like to improve. That's pretty much my only complaint though, I do enjoy these headphones, just looking to upgrade to something more mid-upper range.

Preferred Music - My listening habits seem to change every few weeks. Plenty of classical for when I'm working, but I've been on a big lofi indie folk punk binge lately. In general I keep coming back to classic rock and some electronic music though. I also do some movie watching and a lot of gaming on the same computer, if that affects anything (I know plenty of big-name streamers use 650s but not sure if there's a specific reason for that).

What would you like to improve on from your set-up - Since I don't have any real hard complaints with my current phones I'm not sure if I can pinpoint specific areas I'm looking to improve. Coming from these things to the 598s was so night-and-day that I haven't considered specifically what points I'd prioritize.

Edit: I'm also not solely trying to chose between the three headphones I mentioned above, but those would probably be my top three choices at the moment, I'm definitely open to other suggestions!

Hey, so I picked up a Phillips AF-777 turntable. It is in very nice condition, but the cartridge (Stanton 680EE) sounds very flat and undynamic. It is worn down looking (Not really the needle by just the actual cartridge). I assume it hasn't ever been replaced or maybe once. So I was thinking about replacing it. I cannot go above $100. (So under $100) I want to achieve a Hi-Fi sound. I am currently using a Cambridge Audio Azur 640a v2 and a pair of Vienna Acoustic Bach. I saw the Shure M97xE, but am open to other suggestions on the under $100. (The M97xE is $100).

_

Now you may be thinking, what am I using for a phono preamp? Well I had a Kenwood KR-720 I was using, but seeing I picked up the Cambridge, that replaced the Kenwood. But the CA 620a v2 does not have a phono stage. I was looking for a good Hi-Fi quality phono preamp under $100. I looked around and saw this.. ART DJPRE II. It is $38.. and it seems to cheap to be good. But who knows, that's why I am here. I was also looking around on my CL and Ebay, but there hasn't been anything that I've seen.


I want a clean, non-distorted, accurate sound, with a bit of fun and great dynamics. Dynamics are important for me! If it matters, I plan to play music from Disco to Jazz to Vocals to Acoustic to Pop to etc. I enjoy lot's of kinds of music, so I like an all around sound.

__

I have been trying to get help with this for a while, and have not recieved any help with purchase advice! I appreciate ANY help avaiable here! Thank you!

Hi there!

1. This sexy microphone. You know what's awesome? Recording yourself on the computer. Or skyping. Or third thinging. And this mic has some pretty stellar reviews. I'd love to get a good mic for my computer. I'm considering getting in to making tutorials and posting them on one of those "learn how to do things" websites, but my current mic won't but it for that. Also, my current mic (which is really just a crappy headset) sucks.
   
   
2. I can't remember if you like Game of Thrones, or if you've seen it, but the newest season is sitting on my wishlist. If you haven't seen it, you really ought to, as it's fantastic and I love it! And if you have, well, see it more! :p
   
   
3. You know what else is good? The Walking Dead. And what's even more interesting than the show is the source material. There are three of these compilations (all are on my wishlists) that cover 50-ish volumes of the original comics each. It's no secret how into the series I am, and the comics don't disappoint. Give them a shot if you're even a little interested, regardless of this contest.
   
   
4. Webcams are helpful, and anyone who ever uses one should have a good one. This seems to be a good one. I know I could use it, and I'm sure there's something fun you can use it for too :p
   
   
5. Classics are good, even if they're a bit bogged down with awkward prequels. Star Wars is a fantastic series of movies, and they're all available here. I've really been wanting to rewatch them! I also have steelbook versions of the individual movies on my wishlist, but this entry is more contained.

Your 450W is probably fine. The 970 lists 500W as the minimum, but the rest of your system is pretty low power. The FX-6300 is not a very power hungry CPU, and a link to your actual motherboard model would be helpful, but only a little. It's a small board, and they don't consume much. You should be maxing out at <400W, and you should be running your PSU between, oh, say, 60% and 85% load (it's fuzzy, and newer PSUs have wider peak efficiency curves than older supplies for the most part) at all times so it runs most efficiently. If it's running too far under load or too close to its max load, your PSU is losing efficiency and running hotter and wasting electricity, and wearing out faster as a result. Many newer, higher end supplies, like EVGA's Gold- and Platinum-certified models, can even maintain peak efficiency up to 95% of their max output - we don't know your actual power supply model.

Note, if shopping for these, that their efficiency certifications apply within their peak efficiency curve - not above or below it. Therefore, most supplies that are advertised as something along the lines of "80+% efficiency" means they run that efficiently between somewhere around 60%, and somewhere around 85%, of their max output - so, roughly, between 270W and 380W on a 450W supply (and even 400W is not far above it).

If you are dead set on upgrading, you'd be best suited not putting one in with a much higher capacity unless you're going to be upgrading more on your system to more power hungry components or adding a second video card in SLI (which is losing software support as time goes on and not many people would recommend). I would not shop for more than a 600W PSU, or you're wasting your money twice over - once in buying an overkill power supply, and again in wasted electricity on your utility bill every month.

I would not say that your 450W is plenty or more than enough, but I would say a decent 450W PSU is correct for your system. I don't see a reason for you to replace it.


As a side note, you may want to check that your motherboard actually has a PCI-e 3.0 slot to use with the 970, or your motherboard could be slowing your graphics card down pretty hard. Prebuilt systems like that are usually not made with upgradability in mind - they usually contain the minimum specs for the included components, as anything else would be a waste of money.

If you do the install and find you really need the new PSU, or you're just not confident without the upgrade and want it regardless, here are two I'd recommend: 500W and 600W. You are almost certainly fine with the 500W model, but the 600W is still a good pick for you, and will allow for future major system upgrades. The 600W model also has an equivalent that's semi-modular for an extra $5, if you want easier cable management. EVGA's PSUs are extremely robust and absurdly reliable, and yes I'm shilling, because their products, warranties, and support are top notch. And they'll actually hold up consistently to whatever they're rated for.

• Sounds great, I think you'll be happy with the 6700K
  
  
• This sounds like a good idea. Both the headphones and mic you listed are great. Just to give you another option for headphones, Sennheiser HD 598 would be a great option too.
  
  
• I think you'll like the G502, but its hard to be certain. Razer can be good, but I've heard that they have poor QA and often break down after a short time. The Steel Series Rival 300 is my current favorite mouse, but it might be a little small for your liking.
  
  
• You won't be able to add a second M.2 drive, but you can add a larger one. You can, however, add SATA drives. A 500GB or 1TB 850 Evo would be great depending on how much storage you need. As for video files, I'd definitely put those on a HDD (no need for those to be on a SSD).
  
  
• IKEA desk tops can be good for whatever you need, there's a lot of customization you can do. I recommend getting a dual arm VESA mount for the monitors, this will save a ton of space and it'll look great.
  
  
  As for the compatibility flag on PCPartpicker - this just means that you'll have one less active SATA port when you use a M.2 SSD. This isn't a problem, but you need to be mindful that one of the SATA ports (which is where you plug in HDDs, SATA SSDs, optical drives, etc.) will be disabled, so you can't use that one for a SATA drive.

i'm rocking a set of senn 598SEs (now the 598SR or C[closed back, lower imp], but both are slightly cheaper feeling build quality, but still decent enough) paired to a presonus firepod (mostly because i prefer fulltime streaming vs packet protocols for audio, but to each their own) and my mic is an MXL 990 on an articulating boom arm. speakers are presonus eris e5's with an onkyo powered subwoofer run though a 2 channel 15 band eq.

i will admit i go a bit overboard with these things. :)

as side notes; presonus has many audiobox variants that tend to be a bit cheaper, and there's a lot of general things you can plug in a machine via usb or pci-e that will give you equal quality if all you care about is basic in/out but clear.

as for mics the MXL line has a bunch of other options including the 770 which is just as nifty, at 50-60 usd. its not quite as awesome for vocal recording if you're into proper production, but it'll suffice for anyone doing streaming/youtube/general gaming stuff where relative clarity is desired. there's usb variants as well, for those who wish to keep things as simple as possible.

speakers; i have no complaints with my eris e5s, but i will be the first to admit they aren't fully flat like a set of monitors should be. they suffice for my needs though. and at $200/set they were awesome with a nice full sound that really only lacked that really low end punch. if not getting a 'proper' interface for it, you'll need to get the right cables to hook up to a regular pc style sound card (either 3.5mm to rca cable or some of the higher end audio cards have rca outs, so the eris speakers will hook up with straight rca cables in those cases. i have no idea what ROKRs have for connections, its been a while.)

the sub is literally just some 10" powered sub from a thrift store run i had kicking around and is usually hooked to my av setup. if it sounds alright and has the relevant hookups (my eq has a set of unbalanced RCA outs, for instance, gotten specifically for the subwoofer hookup) then you're gold and can sort of cheap out. it doesn't go as low as i want, but i'll be building my own solely for the subsonic potential later on. if you're in an apartment, perhaps skip the sub if you wish to be nice to your neighbors :)

don't cheap out on cables, but don't drop the bank. avoid monster. any decent music shop will be able to point you to a decent ratio of good/cost. if you can afford it and know how to solder, make your own with mogami or similar quality (quality, not cost!) bulk cable and some neutrik ends. you don't have to get mogami, there are some good lower end brands, and i imagine the folks over at gearslutz forum could point you in the right direction for any and all cable needs, as well as anything else. there's probably reviews and testings of most of the gear you could want to know about as well.

cheers!

Hey, r/headphones! I'm looking for a quality pair of headphones I can wear at home. I think I've narrowed it down to the Sennheiser 185s or the [Sennheiser 598s](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0126HISOO/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_ETiExb1F3K62Z]. I can't seem to find any reviews for the 185s, let alone comparison reviews. I like the idea of wireless headphones with a dock that plugs into my entertainment system, so I don't want to write these off just yet. What do you guys think? Is there maybe a better option for me that I'm missing?

Budget - I'd prefer to stay around $200, but I'm flexible. I have a $100 credit on Amazon, so they definitely need to be sold on there.

Source - I have two different sound systems I alternate between. In my living room, I have a ps3 set up that I put YouTube playlists on. In my bedroom, I have a smart DVD player and my laptop that both plug into my soundbar. Both rooms have optical and mini jacks.

Requirements for Isolation - Mild. I have less-than-great hearing, so I like the clarity headphones offer, and my boyfriend likes to play his own music/Skyrim on his side of the apartment. Bleeding is fine, but we can't keep competing with our sound systems.

Will you be using these Headphones in Public? - Nope.

Preferred Type of Headphone - Circumaural, no exceptions. I wear glasses so I already get headaches and supraaural headphones make it worse. My ear canals are small and I have piercings that make IEMs a nightmare.

Preferred tonal balance - Crisp, natural sound with a wide soundstage. I don't need a lot of bass enhancement.

Past headphones - Nothing of quality, I tell you hwat.

Preferred Music - Chillstep, zen, trance, acoustic, meditation music, binaural beats, etc. Pretty low-intensity stuff.

What would you like to improve on from your set-up - I want clear, detailed sound without ear fatigue. I have some different IEMs and I can't wear any of them for more than about 45 minutes.

I mostly sit in a variety of places to do homework, study or read, but I do like to cook a lot and would love something I could walk around in. The flexibility that comes with the Bluetooth headphones is really attractive to me, but unless I hear from someone who has them I just don't think I can commit.

Just a heads up, my suggestion is going to be double the upper end of your budget. I'll give you my reasoning for it though, but TL;DR: I own them and love them.

These are made by Shure. I absolutely love them. I have had them for a few years now (3 going on 4). The sound quality is a huge step up from the earbuds that come with an iPod, and when paired with triple flange sleeves they block out an incredible amount of sound. They are also great for running and working out because they literally will not fall out of your ear.

Why would I would suggest paying 100 dollars for these? They last. If they break, Shure is a great company with really great customer service. I've returned older models to them on a few occasions, and each time they have sent me brand new earphones, not refurbished, but brand new, in retail packaging earphones. If they are out of warranty and Shure won't replace them, the cable is detachable and can be swapped out for pretty cheap (20 dollars or so). So lets say you buy a new pair of earphones every six months, which isn't too unreasonable. That's 40 dollars a year- in two and a half, you're breaking even with a pair of Shures. Getting 2.5 years out of them isn't unreasonable either. Add in how much better the sound quality is and I really think it's a good deal. Like I've said, I've had mine for going on four now and haven't had any problems with them yet.

Hey /u/QuestionSleep - Nice work on the sounds for your video! It looks like everyone is giving you a bit of a hard time about the video quality though. So I'm here to help! :)

Here's a couple of super basic things to help you:

• Light is EVERYTHING! Having lights behind you (like your window) makes any camera have to lower the gain and exposure (fancy words for the way the image sensor takes in information which requires light). The best thing you can do with what you have right now is turn around so all the lights are behind the camera. That way the exposure and gain will come down and your framerate will go up. If you want to really help your videos get a simple table lamp and have it pointing at your face without getting in the shot, super cheap lighting!
  
  
• If you can afford it, a new camera would be great! Decent webcams can be cheaper than you think too! I'm guessing you are American so head over to here for something to put on Santa's list! http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Webcam-Widescreen-Calling-Recording/dp/B006JH8T3S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416858979&sr=8-1&keywords=logitech+c920
  
  That webcam will film at a good frame rate automatically in 1080p. Problem solved!
  
  Other than that, keep it up! Us ASMRtists have to keep working. Let me know if I can help you any more. And awesome Power Rangers top! :D

First step: have you read noaudiophile's reviews? He does very thorough reviews on a lot of budget speakers, and has corrections for many of the popular options. His corrections for the Infinity P163s that I'm currently using made them sound like completely different speakers.

First let's start with powered options:

The Micca PB42X would be a good option. They are basically a powered version of the MB42X so you don't need to purchase a separate amp. Also in the similar realm that get recommended here a lot would be the Swans D1010 and the Edifier R1280T.

Personally I'm a bigger fan of passive speakers, as you get a lot more options to expand your system.

Pioneer BS22 bookshelf speakers are great and have gone on sale quite a bit lately for $70-80/pair.

Dayton B652 I am currently using as my surround speakers, but people rave about them as a budget desktop option

Micca MB42X also get great reviews.

You could also go used for your speakers, but sometimes it can be hard to parse through all the junk out there if you don't know what you're looking for.

Take any of those passive options and pair them up with an inexpensive amp like this SMSL or Lepai for a good budget setup.

I would also recommend checking your local Craigslist or Facebook marketplace for a used receiver, you could pick up a very decent one for just a few bucks and have a great starting setup. This will give you a lot more powerful amp, and the ability later to easily add a subwoofer or expand to surround sound. Personally I'm using an older Sony home theater receiver at my desk, it's old enough that it doesn't have HDMI or optical inputs, someone was just giving it away so I snagged it.

I've been helping people pick computer parts a lot lately, and here's my go-to current build (as in, where I feel price/performance is optimized)--it's usually around $1000, NOT including monitors. I built two for my company (minus the video card), and they are wonderful. If you want to compare: CPUs, GPUs.

>Case: Corsair 200R, $73

>http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-200R-Compact-CC-9011023-WW/dp/B009GXZ8MM/

>Cases cheaper than this price point will become flimsy, break, literally cut you, and otherwise fall apart over time. I like the way the 200R is, too--no LEDs, no weird shapes, and 2.5" drive slots.

-

>Motherboard: Asus Z97-A, $145

>http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Z97-A-DDR3-2600-Motherboards/dp/B00K2MAU5Q/

>This is a medium range motherboard with PWM case fan pins: an extremely quiet combo. It's more important than you think.

-

>CPU: i7-4790K, $336

>http://www.amazon.com/Intel-i7-4790K-Processor-Cache-BX80646I74790K/dp/B00KPRWAX8/

>While we're on CPUs: GHZ MEANS ALMOST NOTHING FOR PERFORMANCE. My 2Ghz i7 in my Mac outperforms my 4Ghz 2500K in my desktop. It's annoying that it's even mentioned in anything but overclocking guides.

-

>Memory: 16GB Corsair Vengeance (2x8GB), $130

>http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-Desktop-Memory-CMZ16GX3M2A1600C10/dp/B006EWUO22/

>I find myself always using >8GB. Task Manager tells me I'm at 9GB with lots apps but no actual games open.

-

>Graphics Card: EVGA GTX 960, $210

>http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Dual-Link-Graphics-02G-P4-2966-KR/dp/B00SC6HAS4/

>The 960 was recently released, but the 750 and the 900 series are very powerful and power efficient, and EVGA makes great cards.

-

>PSU: Corsair CX 600W, $60

>http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Builder-Watt-EPS%C2%A0-CX600/dp/B0092ML0OC/

>I skimped on a PSU once (it was "Diablotek"). It took my motherboard and a stick of RAM with it when it died.

-

>SSD: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB, $135

>http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E250B-AM/dp/B00OAJ412U/

-

>OS: Windows 8.1 Full Version (not OEM), $100:

>http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-8-1-Full-Version/dp/B00EDSI7QO/

Current total: $1189 + tax, way over budget, so...


>The PSU can be replaced with a 500W EVGA for $17 less:

>http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-80PLUS-Certified-ATX12V-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU

-

>The SSD can be replaced by a 2TB 7200RPM drive, where you won't need a 2nd HDD but booting will be much slower, for $60 less:

>http://www.amazon.com/HGST-Deskstar-3-5-Inch-7200RPM-Internal/dp/B003GSLDRC/
(and get the sata3 monoprice cable)

-

>The GPU can be replaced by a GTX 750 Ti, for $65 less, but at a ~30% loss to graphics power (although it's still a great card):

>http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Superclock-Dual-Link-Graphics-02G-P4-3753-KR/dp/B00IDG3IDO

-

>The CPU can be a non-K version (at very little/no performance loss), for $36 less:

>http://www.amazon.com/Intel-Core-i7-4790-Processor-BX80646I74790/dp/B00J56YSLM

>The next step down in terms of CPU is an i5-4690, at ~30% less CPU power, for $80 less. I personally wouldn't go there.

This is at $1015 + tax--still over budget, but going much cheaper really starts to bite into your experiences (and if anyone here can recommend anything to save money, I welcome it).


As for monitors, if you're playing EVE, honestly I'd recommend a 2560x1440 monitor because spreadsheets. However, since those start around $300, my go-to cheaper monitors are the not-bad 22" 1080p ones that can be had for around $140.

>BenQ 24" flicker-free (for comfortable viewing) 1080p TN panel (for faster response times), $140:

>http://www.amazon.com/BenQ-GL2460HM-24-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor/dp/B00IKDFL4O/

-

>Dell 22" 1080p IPS panel (for better colors and viewing angles), $134:

>http://www.amazon.com/Dell-CFGKT-IPS-LED-21-5-Inch-LED-lit-Monitor/dp/B009H0XQPU/

Source: I've done IT for the past few years, and done dozens of computer purchases/builds.

Notes: I don't buy AMD or ATI unless it's an extreme budget build. I don't buy off-brand because I've had parts break and then not have an RMA available; I've had good experience and RMA support with Corsair and EVGA. You don't really need a CD/DVD drive; you can install Windows from a USB key, but if you're unsure, CD/DVD drives are like $15. If you go with Intel/nVidia Maxwell, you won't really need a >500W PSU.

I don't like to skimp on computers much because, economically, if you're spending even 5-10% of your time waiting for your computer and you earn $10-25/hr, $1000 is paid for in somewhere between 2000-250 hours of use, yet the computer will last at least 3-5 years.

Sorry it has taken me so long to get back to you, but I had classes at school all day. Here is a build for you in all Euros.

CPU: $218

MOBO: $119

RAM: $92

SSD: $70

HDD: $40

GPU: $480

OS: $23

Case: $117

PSU: $104

CD Drive: $21

TOTAL: $1284

I realize that this is over your initial budget, but you mentioned that you could add an extra $100. Now for the explanations:

• I did not change your CPU, but instead just found an actual link.
  
  
• You do not need to buy thermal paste, as your CPU comes with a stock heatsink, which has thermal paste pre-applied.
  
  
• I changed your motherboard to a compatible one, and then changed it again (when making the list in euros) for price reasons. Also keep in mind that Z series motherboards (as in Z97) are meant for overclocking. This is a method of getting better performance from your CPU. However, it requires specialized parts, like a Z series motherboard, and an unlocked CPU (shown with a K as in 6600K). These parts are more expensive. Because of that, I recommend you don’t overclock, which means you do not need the fancy, Z series motherboard. Instead I went with a H170.
  
  
• Because I went with a different motherboard, different RAM was needed.
  
  
• You chose a GTX 970 GPU. I switched it to a 1070. The reason for this is that it is a newer card with better performance. The 9 or 10 in the front shows which series the card is in, and the 70 shows which version of that series it belongs to, with a higher number meaning better performance. So therefore, a 1080 is better than a 1070 or 1060, and a 1070 is better than a 970 or 870.
  
  
• You chose a Fractal Design R4 for your case. This case is the older version. I upgraded it to the R5.
  
  
• Lets talk PSU’s. These can be very confusing. Obviously, you need to pick one that can supply enough watts to power your PC. You did that just fine. However, there are other things to consider. When it comes to PSU’s, not all watts are created equal. Two PSU’s may provide the same amount of power, however be very different in price. The cause of this comes down to the build quality of each. This affects 4 (main) things, noise, reliability, modularity, and efficiency. Hopefully the first 2 are self-explanatory. If a PSU is fully modular, that means that all of the internal cables that attach to your motherboard or GPU or hard drives or whatever can be completely removed from the PSU itself. This is very useful as it allows you to manage them much better. Efficiency means that less of the power you draw from the wall is being lost as heat. This not only reduces your electricity bill, but also means that your PSU will be cooler, creating less heat for your CPU and GPU. Efficacy is rated using the 80+ scale, which you can see here. Because of these 4 factors, I went with a higher-quality PSU.
  
  Hope all of this helps! If you have questions, related or not, feel free to message me!
  

I just spent a full hour writing about this but it got deleted by my mistake :-:
I recommend these parts

https://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-LGA1151-Intel-Motherboard-GA-H110M/dp/B0165YUDTM/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1491086662&sr=1-1&keywords=h110m
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Skylake-Desktop-Processor-BX80662I56500/dp/B010T6CWI2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1491088199&sr=1-1&keywords=i5+6500
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-03G-P4-6160-KR/dp/B01KUADE3O/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1491087663&sr=1-2&keywords=1060&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-2400MHz-Memory-Black/dp/B01ARHBBPS/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1491086759&sr=1-3&keywords=8gb+ddr4
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Power-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU


The CPU is good enough for the game you will be playing, the motherboard is good enough and more expensive ones sell you feature you don't need. The RAM will do you fine and is enough for any game you want and the GPU will be perfect for 1080p with 3GB of VRAM. For storage, go with a cheap 500GB HDD but I would certainly recommend an SSD for the future. The power supply will do you fine no matter what anyone else says, trust me (powers my R9 280X which is a LOT more power hungry).
I would recommend looking round Ebay, Facebook selling sites etc etc for any used components or 'starting points' with Ebay being the best bet in my opinion due to the massive amounts of sellers. If you see a 6600 or a 6600k for the same or less than on Amazon, snag it up and make sure to have a CPU cooler with it (stock will do you again, I have experience with 6600/6500 running on stock coolers and it's perfectly fine)

Sorry if the response looks rushed, I had a better one but I clicked something and it deleted :'(
Would love to hear about how the build goes, may your frames be high and temperatures at a low enough level!

EDIT BEFORE POSTING : 'Bomba' recommended an 8GB RX 470 - that's pointless for 1080p in my opinion and having a Pentium Dual core isn't something anyone would crave. I also have bad experience with Corsair PSUs but I haven't tried the 450W.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-3820 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor | $229.99 @ Microcenter
CPU Cooler | Swiftech H220 55.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $139.99 @ Microcenter
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-X79-UP4 ATX LGA2011 Motherboard | $248.49 @ Newegg
Memory | Corsair Vengeance 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $126.99 @ Best Buy
Storage | Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk | $219.99 @ NCIX US
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $85.99 @ NCIX US
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) | $663.98 @ Newegg
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) | $659.99 @ Amazon
Case | NZXT Switch 810 (Black) ATX Full Tower Case | $152.95 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Noctua NF-P12-1300 54.4 CFM 120mm Fan | $22.99 @ NCIX US
Case Fan | Noctua NF-P12-1300 54.4 CFM 120mm Fan | $22.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | XFX ProSeries 850W 80 PLUS Silver Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply | $119.99 @ Newegg
Optical Drive | Asus BC-12B1ST/BLK/B/AS Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer | $49.99 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8 Professional (OEM) (64-bit) | $130.55 @ Amazon
Monitor | Samsung S23B300B 60Hz 23.0" Monitor | $179.99 @ Newegg
Monitor | Samsung S23B300B 60Hz 23.0" Monitor | $179.99 @ Newegg
Monitor | Samsung S23B300B 60Hz 23.0" Monitor | $179.99 @ Newegg
Keyboard | Ducky DK9087S2 Shine II Wired Standard Keyboard | $137.00 @ Mechanical Keyboards
Mouse | Logitech G500 Wired Laser Mouse | $52.49 @ Amazon
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | $3584.33
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-06-26 01:43 EDT-0400 |


Replaced the 4770k with the 3820 and a gigabyte up4. They're better for sli set ups, especially with your budget.The 840 pro is a better option for an ssd than the 830. I took out the network adapter, because it shouldn't be needed. The 32 gb of ram is pointless, and dominator platinum is way overpriced, 16 gigs should work fine. A 850 watt power supply will work fine with your setup. The asus blu-ray reader is cheaper, but you should also consider a regular $17 dvd reader, as it will do everything perfectly, unless you want to watch blu-rays on your computer.

With the sound card and speakers, I'm fairly certain you don't need $400 speakers, unless you are an audiophile, but you can add them back if you do want them. Without the speakers though, you shouldn't need the sound card, as the mobo's sound should be fine. If you want to get a good headset or speakers, you can add the sound card back in, or go for one of asus's xonar sound cards.

Instead of 2 144hz monitors, I gave you 3 60hz monitors for if you want to go with a multi-monitor set up. I would highly recommend going with this 1440p monitor instead, but either monitor set up should work.

I wasn't sure about the mouse, but the logitech G500 is supposed to be a very good mouse, but I recommend you do a bit of research to find out what you want. The Ducky shine 2 is a very good mech keyboard at the same price as the k95. I do recommend checking out /r/mechanicalkeyboards to do some research on some good mech keyboards, and to decide what kind of switch you want for it.

• Budget - ~$150 USD
  
  
• Source - Desktop, Laptop, Phone, MP3 Player - Also, I'll be using a V-Moda BoomPro Mic on the computers, so the headphones need to be compatible. (It seems like any 3.5mm detachable cable will do.)
  
  
• Requirements for Isolation- Open.
  
  
• Will you be using these Headphones in Public? No.
  
  
• Preferred Type of Headphone Around-Ear.
  
  
• Preferred tonal balance - Warm bass to neutral. The treble spikes on the DT 990's scared me away though I've never actually tried them out in person.
  
  
• Past headphones - V-Moda Crossfade LP (had these for 5 years; still using them to this day, but I want to get some open cans to go along with them), AKG K240 (I ordered these on a whim, and had to return them because they weren't compatible with my mic. Nice sound signature though), Turtle Beach Earforce X12 headset (These sound and feel fine. The mic works well, but the build quality was terrible. The plastic extenders snapped on both sides within a year of use).
  
  
• Preferred Music - Hip Hop, Rock, Indie, Instrumental, Classical
  
  
• What would you like to improve on from your set-up -
  
  

1. Open headphones (since I already own a good pair of closed)
   
   
2. Felt/velvet/velour earpads for extended use
   
   
3. Compatible with a V-Moda BoomPro Mic
   
   
4. I really liked the AKG K240's style and feel when I was wearing them. They felt very lite weight, like they were almost floating over my head. And using only one cup at a time felt very natural and secure. The individual arms felt very flexible. I liked that a lot, but this isn't a make or break requirement as I've been using Crossfade LPs for years and still love them.
   
   From my own (limited) research, I've got my eye on Sennheiser's HD 598 and HD 558, but I would have to buy an aftermarket 2.5mm to 3.5mm adapter. I don't mind the price of an adapter, but I don't want it to be cumbersome. And are the HD598's better by $40? They seem to nearly be the same exact headphone.

• Budget: 250CAD/200USD (That being said I'm a teenager with his first job, if theres some god like headphones in the 200-300 range then lay them on me!)
  
  
• Source: PC/Phone (I'm not to worried about phone compatibility)
  
  
• Isolation: Isolation is always a nice feature but I play in a quiet room so it is not necessary.
  
  
• General Use: These will be typically used at home, but it would be good to be able to walk around with them.
  
  
• Type of Headphone: Over ear
  
  
• Balance: I'm a fan of bass but would very happily take a well balanced set of headphones
  
  
• Past Headphones: Nothing of note
  
  
• Music Taste: Crappy nightcore remixes / techno
  
  *Location: I'm buying in Canada
  
  I was one step away from pulling the trigger on some Logitech G933's before I discovered this subreddit. I already have a separate mic but would prefer to have a build in mic and the convenience of wireless appealed to me. After discovering this subreddit I looked through some posts on gaming headphones and two really caught my eye.
  
  
• Audio Technica ATH-AD700X
  
  -Noticed this after reading through Mad Lust Envy's guide to gaming headphones. The original ones reviewed are no longer on sale new and I've heard complaints about build quality and the 3M non detachable cable on the new ones. While it may be possible to modify the cable I'd rather not have to.
  
  
• Sennheiser PC 363D
  
  -I've been looking at these because they come with a very convenient mic as well as an attachable sound card for 7:1 Surround Sound. In terms of getting good positional audio Surround Sound is very appealing, although I may just be buying into the marketing.
  
  While audio quality for things like music and movies is important I am willing to sacrifice all round quality for good positional audio and a wide soundscape. These headphones will be used for fps games like CSGO and Arma 3 and I don't use my headphones for much else. These are pretty popular games so I'm sure that someone helpful on here could share their experiences. Everything I've seen of this community so far makes it out to be really good and I'm looking forwards to learning more. Thank you in advance!

Fiio FH1
MSRP: $75
Amazon link


Shure SE215
MSRP: $99
Amazon link

I have had the SE215s for around 3 months now--first impressions here-- and got my FH1s around three days ago--first impressions here. I bought the FH1s to use at my workstation and for on-the-go listening and had bought the SE215s to just try out IEMs with a earhook design.

SE215 vs. FH1


In terms of comfort, I feel that the FH1 are way better than the SE215s, majorly because of the ear hooks on the cables. The hooks on the SE215s just jut out and do not go around the back of my ear as much as securely as I would like them to, whereas the ones on the FH1 fit perfectly.

The eartips of the FH1 seem to go all the way inside my ear, while those on the SE215s do not. This makes for a better seal with the FH1s, making the isolation much better for me. Do keep in mind that everyone’s ears are different, hence this might not be true for your ears.

Now that we have the comfort discussion out of the way, let’s talk about sound quality. This is where the SE215s justify their $24 premium over the FH1. The separation of the instruments was way better on the SE215s, I could clearly make out the different instruments in the track while using the SE215s, but with the FH1 they just seemed to be overlapping to some extent.

The sound seemed to be warmer on the SE215s compared to the FH1s. As for the bass, the FH1s are the clear winners there. The bass on the FH1s is clear and does not leave a rattle.

Disclaimer: I am using the cables and the ear tips that came with the products. Both headphones were tested using my MacBook Pro.

TL;DR: FH1s better than the SE215s in terms of comfort, while SE215s are the clear winners in the sound quality department and justify the $25 premium over the FH1s.

Hope this amateur review is of use.

Excellent choice on the BS22s! They're fantastic speakers. I bought a pair for what I expected to be a temporary, transitional set, but I enjoy them so much I now have no intention of replacing them.

That Lepei amp will get the job done. It's not really an "audiophile" amp, meaning if you're going to sit there with a frown on your face and listen to test tones and not music, you'll notice some of its limitations. But in that price range, there's little else that will drive your speakers with reasonable fidelity. It's kind of designed for casual listening, not critical listening. A lot of people that do critical listening assume everyone does, and neither has anything to do with enjoying the music. Your speakers have a more meaningful impact on the quality of sound that the amplifier does. The Pioneer speakers are a tier or two above the Lepai amp in terms of quality, but I'd rather have that than the inverse.

For around $100, there's this Parts Express amp. It's a pretty generic amp; you can find the same guts in a different case from other companies for about the same price. I have no direct experience with this amp, but I suspect it would be quite an upgrade from the Lepei. Someone else made an excellent recommendation for a Yamaha integrated amp.

Another variable being the outputs on your turntable. Most turntables put out a signal that's far too weak for even an amplifier to handle, so they need to be "pre-amped" along with some other processing. Some turntables have this built in, some don't. Likewise, some amps have this circuitry, some don't - most modern amps don't, including the Lepei and Part Express amps mentioned here. In this case you'll need a pre-amp that sits in-between your turntable and amplifier. This one is a popular budget choice, and one I can personally recommend. Some forum-searching will reveal others.

The mentioned powered speakers are another option, especially when getting more bang for your buck. Down the road it can be limiting - you can't upgrade your speakers without buying an amp, too. There's also the whole pre-amp question with these as well. Still, they're a great way to get busy listening to your records.

There's a lot to consider and it can seem overwhelming, but don't let that interfere with the fun of spinning the discs. A lot of us around here enjoy music and dicking around with equipment, and love offering our opinions on both.

I'll try, if you have any questions or if I wasn't really clear on something, ask away and I'll try to explain it better.

A normal home network is quite simple, in order starting from your ISP's line coming into your house, you usually have a modem, a router, a switch and an access point. Most consumer routers are actually a combo router-switch-access point all in one. They provide you a few ports for wired connection and the wifi in a single convenient unit. What you can also do is split up this combo unit to be able to place each device in a better location. If you have your modem in the basement, putting the router next to it makes sense, but putting the access point there often means it will be completely unusable on the second floor. Don't be afraid, separate unit aren't really more complex, you just need to wire them together. I'll recommend a few unit throughout, but feel free to ask for a second opinion!

Personally, after witnessing the extreme difference in quality between home all-in-one routers and dedicated separate unit, I will strongly recommend you go with a separate unit setup. Ubiquiti makes super great hardware that won't cost you much more than a combo but will give you much more performance. Here are the recommended devices, I'll explain the setup right after :

• Router : Ubiquiti Edgerouter X
  
• Switch : TP-Link Gigabit switch (8 port / 16 port / 24 port)
  
• Access point : Ubiquiti Unifi AP AC Lite
  
  So, your provider will supply you with a modem (or you will buy your own) and plug that directly in the DSL/Cable/Fiber line that comes from outside. Then, you will plug the router in the modem. The router will allow all the devices in your home to communicate with the internet. In the router, you will plug the switch. In the switch, you can plug all the lines that are going through your house. You can also plug several switches in the router, or a switch in another switch (example : a switch in the office plugged into a line that goes to the second floor, a switch on the second floor, that will work). Also plugged in the switch : the access point. You can plug it (or them if you buy more than one) directly in the switch, or at the end of a long line that goes where you want the access point to be. For a two stories house, you might get good result by having a central AP on the first floor, or an AP on each floor, depending on construction, materials and interference.
  
  So now, we have the classic modem > router > switch > AP, using separate devices for greater flexibility and performance. Once it's all plugged in, time to set it up. For the router, simple, follow the wizard. For the switch, these switches are plug and play, no config needed. For the AP (or APs), install the software on your PC, follow the wizard, done! The controller software is used to configure the APs, but is not needed for the APs to work. The APs, once they get their config from the software, are completely standalone and independent, you can turn the PC off without issues.
  
  Hope this answers your questions, as I said, ask anything that wasn't answered and I'll try to explain it.

Great!


Try these settings that Fairchild, a forum member, posted up on AVSforums. He calibrated it using professional tools for a darker room, so it might work for you. Otherwise, perusing/searching the forums should net you some more settings that worked for other people.

Best Buy has excellent deals on the Denon 1613/1713/1913 speakers right now. They’re all on clearance or in excellent condition as open box items. The Denon 1713, for example, I was able to buy for 199 before taxes (amazon still shows it as 378.99).


To check online stock, do the following:


Go to the store locator -> Enter zip/address -> click on the stores that are closest to you within the search results -> for each individual store website, click “Open Box and Clearance Items” on the left side -> Shop this store (in blue) -> Under “Shop Best Buy” (left side pane), click “Audio & MP3” -> Under Narrow your results, choose Denon as your brand.

Hopefully you’ll find some good sales.


Speakers.
I’ve thought about the Pioneer SP BS-22 and the Polk 30s. You really can’t go wrong with either, but you just missed a sale where the Pioneers were going for $70.


Depending on what L/Rs you go with, you’d get the matching center channel from their respective manufacturers.


Subs, for our budget, the consensus seems to be the Bic America F12, but others have stated that a better alternative may be the Polk Audio PSW505.

The gist, I think, was that the Polks would perform better if you listen to a lot of music.

Anyways, that’s where I am with my research. My goal is to save as much money as I can, but to spend when necessary to fulfill my needs. I hope that television works out for you. We’ve loved ours and the calibration went a long way. Happy shopping!

In your shoes i would suggest doing a 2.0 or a 2.1 if you can squeeze a little more juice out of your wallet. Explanation: a 2.0/ 2.1 will give you a far better sound quality with a dedicated amp/receiver and external speakers rather than in all in one sound bar type unit. although you don't crank your system sound quality is important and will be better out of this set up too. And lastly you then have the availability to upgrade and expand your system later on. I know these were posted once but here why.

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SP-FS52-LR-Designed-standing-Loudspeaker/dp/B008NCD2S4 great price point, great sound quality. I think the rest of this sub would agree these are a fantastic speaker for the price. They are rear ported, the closer to the wall the more low end you will get from them.

http://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVR-S500BT-Receiver-Capability-Bluetooth/dp/B00JR6GJLW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415645951&sr=8-1&keywords=AVR-S500BT Big fan of denon, they make great receivers starting from the bottom all the way to high end. built in bluetooth, powerful enough to handle a slightly bigger speaker if you want to upgrade later

http://www.amazon.com/BIC-America-F12-475-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B0015A8Y5M If you have the money or the want, this is a great subwoofer for the money. Fairly clean, pretty crisp, not real muddy.

If I were you I would definitely look into getting a 2560x1440 monitor, it will be fantastic for any sort of editing and will provide a stellar gaming experience too. Unfortunately most of the affordable displays have to be imported from Korea via eBay, here are some links: Qnix, Achieva Shimian, Yamakasi Catleap. There is another alternative if you're absolutely sure you want a 1440p monitor and you don't want to take the risk with a Korean display. Monoprice sells a 2560x1440 IPS display for under $400. Dell and ASUS also have a really nice 1440p monitor, they just tend to be more expensive.

I think if I were you I would take a serious look at the Shimian Achieva, while it's a smidge more expensive then the Qnix, it has a glossy finish which aids the vibrancy of the colours it's displaying and would be the best pick for photoshop and other editing programs. Take in mind that without a matte finish it can succumb to screen glare but if you're willing to tweak the lighting in your room, it'll look fantastic.

Then you can afford a second Korean 1440p monitor into your budget if you want to or if you'd like to save some money then you could just look into a cheap 1920x1080 screen for a secondary monitor if you'll only be using one monitor for the important stuff (editing and gaming). But if you want my honest opinion, the ultimate setup for your needs and your budget would include this BenQ display. It is simply one of the best gaming monitors ever made-- it has a sweet 144Hz refresh rate, unbelievable build quality and can be put into portrait mode incredibly easily. On the negative side it is not an IPS screen and is not 1440p but if you play any sort of competitive game (SC2, LoL/DotA, Counterstrike) you will see the buttery smoothness that this monitor offers. If you combine that with a 1440p screen, that is a delightful combination.

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor | $329.00 @ B&H
CPU Cooler | FSP Group Windale 6 60 CFM CPU Cooler | $46.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | MSI B450 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard | $114.89 @ OutletPC
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $67.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Western Digital Blue SN500 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $64.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $54.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | Sapphire Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB Video Card | $399.99 @ SuperBiiz
Case | NZXT H500 ATX Mid Tower Case | $69.99 @ Best Buy
Power Supply | SeaSonic 520 W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply | $41.98 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $99.99 @ Best Buy
| Prices include shipping, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1330.80
| Mail-in rebates | -$40.00
| Total | $1290.80
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-08-04 21:19 EDT-0400 |

CPU: Good CPU for gaming and streaming.
CPU Cooler: Performs extremely well for its price. Also has blue LEDs!
Motherboard: You must update the BIOS on this before you can use a Ryzen 3000 CPU with it. Micro Center offers BIOS updates as a free service in-store.
RAM: 3200Mhz, CL16. Nothing too fancy, but should do well with this CPU.
Storage: This SSD is well worth the $5 price increase over the Intel 660p/Crucial P1. The HDD is 7200RPM and not a used/repackaged drive, so it's good enough.
GPU: Easily the best GPU that fits your budget, but if you wait until a little later this month, you can get a 5700 XT with an aftermarket cooler that's much quieter than the stock one. You might want to check with Micro Center for bundle deals with this GPU. A little while ago, they were offering $50 off when bought with an AMD CPU; I'm not sure if that deal is still active.
Case: Nice case with a side window. The one with blue highlights is $20 more.
PSU: Tier C on the PSU tier list, so it's fine if you don't overload it - you won't with this build. (It's an M12II)
* OS: You can contact Microsoft support to see if your old OS can be transferred to a new computer. If you didn't buy a Retail version, it's unlikely.

Monitor - The Dell S2419HGF (1080p, 144Hz, $160) and Dell S2719DGF (1440p, 155Hz, $300) are both really good deals. A 5700 XT should power either one well for less demanding games, but you may need to lower some settings for new titles on the 1440p one. Both monitors work with G-sync in case you switch to an Nvidia card in the future.

Speakers - I know very little about speakers, but /r/BudgetAudiophile recommends a Lepy LP-2020A ($20) amp along with Micca MB42 ($60) or Micca MB42X ($80) speakers as a low-end system.

Hello, I've worked with artists on similar projects and I think that I understand what you are asking for.

There are some good answers here, but I think you need to clarify your vision a bit more as there is some ambiguity in your specs and this can mislead people.

Sometimes it helps to specify what you want, instead of suggesting the solution. e.g. you say "LEDs" but you want "white lights and coloured gels".

LEDs are mono-colour. There are devices which combine several LEDs called an "RGB LED", which combines Red, Green and Blue, and this will give you a white-ish colour when you switch on all the LEDs on at once. It wouldn't make sense, from a technical point of view, to switch all the LEDs on and then use a gel to change the colour. Most likely, you'd want to adjust the relative balance

The good thing is that you can buy strips of RGB LEDs for a fairly low price these days and they're easy to control from an Arduino, as people have suggested. This would be the easiest way to go as it's almost a ready to go solution and there are loads of examples.

e.g. https://www.adafruit.com/category/183

If you want bright white, then you would want to look at a circuit which switched on, say, banks of halogen lights or 12V white LED bulbs. e.g. http://www.ledkia.com/uk/buy-g4-led-bulbs/578-g4-15w-led-bulb-12v.html This is certainly more complicated as you'd be looking at custom circuitry.

Next up is your power consumption.

Your image shows 13 columns, with 12 rows per column and you said up to 12 LEDs per bar. That's roughly 2000 LEDs. Each RGB LED unit consumes about 0.25Watts at medium brightness. Therefore you need 0.25W x 2000 = 500 Watts of power.

But that's only if you were to switch on every single LED at full brightness. If you don't, then you only need a fraction of this. This is a worst case scenario. Reduce the number of lights per bar, and your power requirements will go down accordingly.

Say you use 12V, so you would need 500W / 12V = 41Amp power supply. e.g. a PC power supply like https://www.amazon.co.uk/EVGA-100-W1-0500-K3-500W-Power-Supply/dp/B00H33SFJU The spec for this power supply says, "Supporting 40A on a single +12V rail".

But I think most of the RGB addressable strips need 5V.

So you'd need 500W / 5V = 100A power supply. This is a lot of current for a single power supply, and you'd need several 5V power supplies. e.g. You can have one power supply for column.

e.g. https://www.adafruit.com/product/658

Hey Zeos! I want to thank you so much for your guide. I just started looking at making a home theater setup yesterday for the very first time and it was pretty daunting at first. After reading through your posts and several others at /r/hometheater I have it narrowed down to a couple of options and would appreciate some advice on the selections I've made. I apologize for the long post but I want to make sure I make the most informed decisions for my first home theater purchase.

I just purchased the 65" Samsung JS8500 and I have an Xbox One that will be my main bluray player for now with a focus on movies / games.

Through my research last night and going through your suggestions at the top of this thread, I've chosen the Denon AVR-S510BT.

My question is in regards to speakers. Last night I had decided on the Micca MB42X Bookshelf Speakers with the accompanying Center since it's my first system and I was thinking of trying out something cheaper for an intro setup which would be better than just my TV speakers.

Whenever I get into a new hobby I tend to start thinking of an intro setup and get sucked into the nice expensive parts because I believe in "buy once cry once". I'd hate to get the Micca's and then a year later want to upgrade them to something nicer anyways when I could have just spent a bit more and got something that would have lasted me longer.

edit after more reading and watching your videos I see you recommending the Elacs quite a bit, I know you mentioned they would be great for music and I loved how they sounded, is this the case with movies and games as well? My budget is pretty open if it's for the right items and I can afford the Elac 6.5"s or something in that similar price range like the HTD Level3's (loved that sound demo too) if they would really make the whole setup shine and last me for years to come.

If I do end up choosing more expensive speakers and could only purchase one or the other to start with, would you recommend a Center speaker or a Subwoofer like the BIC America F12?

Thank you so much in advance, I appreciate all the time you've taken to write up these guides and answer questions.

first off, don't rent a router from your ISP. you will need to use a modem or gateway depending on the type of internet you are getting. if you are using cable or dsl i would also suggest to buy your own modem as well. it's a modern version of renting a rotary phone from the company and a racket.

you can get a router and wifi combo that is new and good for about $150 or more for faster or more advanced features.

as far as game plan for your home here is my suggestions
to start you off since you just moved in and are already renting it for now just use the provided router from to fiber provider so you can get connected and plan the rest of this build out.

depending on the layout and size of your home (cinder block construction is terrible for wifi and other rf signals) you may need multiple access points. my suggestion is to look into a brand of networking equipment called ubiquity.

they are relatively new to the market and have really shaken up the price and feature packs. set up is mainly through a web and mobile app and is very easy for a relatively new person to IT. there is also a huge community here on reddit and youtube showing off features and giving how to's.

here is my goto suggestion if you are willing to invest in an infrastructure more than a single router.

the fiber will come into your property and go through a modem and gateway provided by the isp you would then plug it into a router:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Gateway-USG/dp/B00LV8YZLK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526552321&sr=8-2&keywords=unifi

This is a smaller model that is a router and firewall combo by ubiquity, its about 110 at amazon

Then you plug the router into a switch:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Managed-Gigabit-US-8-150W/dp/B01DKXT4CI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526552321&sr=8-3&keywords=unifi

This is a sort of backbone device that you would use to send the internet to other devices and for other devices to comunicate with each other. this one is a poe switch which means it can send power to some devices like access points over the one cat 5 cable. this one has 8 ports so that means 7 outboard devices can be connected to the network because one is needed for the router. they make larger ones with more ports for more devices. this model is currently 194 on amazon

you will then need access points:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1526552321&sr=8-5&keywords=unifi

these are radios that broadcast wifi to your wireless devises these connect to the switch with cat 5 cables and are best placed near where you are going to use wifi devises the average home would benefit from two or three of these one to cover the living room kitchen great room area and one to cover the bedroom hallway are and possibly one for the backyard pool area (that might be important because of your external walls). this model is currently 80 on amazon.

if you deploy this list you will also need a cloud key:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Cloud-Key-Control/dp/B017T2QB22/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526553343&sr=8-1&keywords=cloud+key

this is a devise that manages the network and stores configuration files locally. it's like a mini server. this is about 78 on amazon.

you will also need cat 5/6/7 cables of various lengths and a power strip for about 500 you can get a really great network that can cover your whole house and that can easily be upgraded incrementally as technology improves. My suggestion would be to get all this mounted in a closet somewhere and get cat5/6/7 run to all the things that you can and place the access point in the house so you get the best coverage possible for the IOT devises in your house. as your network grows and you need more wired ports you can add a switch or replace the one with a 24 or 46 port one. when wifi tech improves past ag you can just replace the access points without affecting the rest of the network.another big thing is to run cable to anything you can this will help with keeping your wifi fast since there are less devices on the wifi.

Edit:
If there are two main points they would be:

1. wire everything you can so that way the devises that need to be wireless can be faster
   
2. Don't rent non-proprietary equipment from your ISP

Hey. That's quite a... detailed list you've got there. I'll clear up what I can. I'll go through your issues one by one.

First off:Motherboard. Addresses in problem #7 #5.
-Bluetooth. Most motherboard don't have a built in Bluetooth module. If you want Bluetooth anyway I recommend you to check out this:
https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Adapter-Computer/dp/B00HF8K0O6
This also comes with wifi. Bonus points for convenience.

-Motherboard:Your 6700k is an unlocked processor, which mean it is designed for a Z170 chipset motherboard, which enables CPU overclocking, you can learn more about it in Google. Considering your concern about audio quality I recommend either an:

+ASROCK Fatal1ty Z170 Gaming K4

Or a

+Gigabyte Z170X Gaming 3

Both of which comes with the newest onboard audio codec [ALC1150] but I generally prefer the Z170X Gaming 3 because it has better build quality and comes with an Op Amp. Solid choice overall.

Secondly:Performance related issues. As addresses in problem #2 and #3

-Ram:32GB of RAM is all you need, most of the people who run out of 64gb RAM are the ones who work on hi profile project like BF1 and AAA titles. Don't sweat it.

-Storage:1TB SSD is pretty pricey but is worth it if you can pay the bucks. If you can't, then opt for a 120gb or 240gb SSD and then get 3x500GB HDD and run it in Raid 0 configuration. This feature is supported by the aforementioned motherboards, this makes the HDD faster while still having fast boot time and low cost.

Third: Comfortability. This one is small so I'll keep it short.

-Keyboard:It depends on your need. If you want a quiet and tactile, go for Brown switch. If you don't use the keypad much but can use some extra money and space they get a TKL keyboard, it all depends on your preference. My recommendation:
https://www.amazon.com/Storm-QuickFire-Rapid-Tenkeyless-Mechanical/dp/B007VDKLLM?th=1&psc=1

-Monitors:Are you multitasking? Do you want to watch porn while playing GTA5? Then get 2 1080p.
If you prefer quality instead, I recommend an ultra wide 1440p monitor. The 1070 isn't powerful enough to hit a steady 144fps at max settings.1080 also has a hard time hitting it so just stay with the 1070 and SLI later for extra performance. My recommendation:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VBNQJSM/ref=as_li_tl?tag=amazon0251-20&ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00VBNQJSM&linkCode=as2&linkId=DXJX3BVD7T5PL252
There is enough real estate for multiple windows when you're not gaming. So if you can spare a few buck then this may be cool for you.

-Case: Just go with what the community considers best: the NZXT S340. Simple and efficient.

-Installation: You do indeed need to buy a Phillips screwdriver if you want to assemble the PC. The rest is just adult Lego.

Hope I cleared that up. If you don't understand anything feel free to ask me.

>"The issue for me is that initial investment for a good PC. I would love to get into PC gaming."

Speak no more, I've got you covered. These lovely bastards are great to portable go without the hassle. There's others too varying in prices but this is one of the best versions that comes with Bluetooth and other sweet additions including being VR-ready!

Also, I suggest getting HDMI cords and attaching the PC to a bigger monitor (e.g., television).

>"I have many fond memories of my mother watching me play silent hill and final fantasy 7 growing up, id love to make memories like that with my kids."

You still can but it's all about timing, resources, and devotion. There's always other ways.

>"And she could be Sherry! Now I just have to inject myself with the G Virus and impregnate her with my...wait...."

When the time comes, you'll already have plenty of newer installments to share with the whole family!

Budget - $100-$150 (although my max is $200 if they're that good)

Source - iPhone 5s

Isolation - Sound can't leak because I'll be using them in school. They're going to be my go-to for being in public so this is pretty important.

Type - IEM

Past Headphones - NAD Viso HP50. Love these headphones but I need something I can use in public since they look a little silly. Sound wise the're great although I'd like it if they were a little warmer. I also have the apple ear buds but they're extremely uncomfortable and always pop out of my ears when walking. Also, they don't sound that great.

Preferred music - I'm really into hip hop right now (Kendrick, Kanye). I like alternative music as well and some rock when I'm feeling it.

Additional Info - After checking around on reddit and innerfidelity I've narrowed it down to the Shure SE215 and the RHA MA750. I like that the 215 has such good isolation and base (plus they look cool) but the 750's seem to have better sq overall. The build quality is important too since I can guarantee they'll be seeing some abuse. I'm really looking for a fun IEM so if there are any better ones in my price range please comment and let me know. Thanks for the help!

I'm only recently getting into the audiophile world, but I'll give this a shot from what I've discovered. The guys at /r/headphones would love to go into detail.

Lets take a 0-100 scale of audio quality, in which 0 is a person banging on a garbage can and badly humming the tune to a song, and 100 is literally being in the studio with the band recording.

A generic setup like an iphone and the iphone earbuds probably falls somewhere around a 65 on that scale. You can hear the song and make out the words and all, but there's not much intricacy and it has to be pretty loud to hear the different pieces of the music individually. The bass is probably bad and the sound-stage is very small.

Investing in something like THESE, which are occasionally <$100, would move you up to about 80. Its a HUGE jump in quality. You hear things in songs you never knew were there before. Any person with functional ears would easily hear the difference and universally prefer this sound over the cheap earbuds.

Add another $100 for an amp and dac and you're getting into the mid/high 80s on our quality scale. You can hear the music very much the way it sounded in the studio. Unless you're actively listening for differences you aren't likely to ever have a complaint with this type of setup.

Most reasonable people would probably stop in that range just because for a couple hundred bucks you can get a really good sound setup that satisfies the vast majority.

But without question a person with functional ears would be able to notice an improvement between the $200 setup I described and the $2,000 setup that includes headphones like these. If you have discerning ears you may even find the difference to be fairly large, although most people probably wouldn't think its that huge.

And then there's another step even above this, where you could spend >$10,000 on a setup from the truly top of the line. And yes that will sound better, but not 5x better. The higher up the ladder you climb the less pronounced the changes become.

I need to adjust my exemptions, I've owed the last two years and probably will this year.

However, if I can give you some unsolicited advice, don't get Beats headphones. To be blunt, they're overpriced garbage. Sure, they sound good, but you're primarily paying for the brand, not quality. Personally, I'd rather pay for quality than the brand.

If you're looking for headphones, you can't do better than the AudioTechnica M50X headphones for the money. If you're looking for earbuds, I highly recommend the Shure SE215 earbuds. Both of them sound amazing, though if you really want to hear how good they sound, a headphone amp like the FiiO E07K "Andes" will really bring out what the headphones can do. Creative makes some great portable headphone amps as well, though I found that the FiiO (which is surprisingly hard to find now, was easy a year ago) gets digital audio from my iDevices, which is fantastic.

Oh my god please don't do a prebuilt from here and not likes Dell prebuilt like someone built it here. You can learn so much but buying the parts, and researching it can be a bonding experience with your son!
Edit: SORRY IN ADVANCE FOR A WALL OF TEXT!
anyway lets get this build started!
Idk what you want but for a case that looks super sexy the NZXT S340 would be a good start, cheap and nice.
CASE:NZXT S340 Mid Tower Case CA-S340MB-GR Matte Black/Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T4BWUUY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wR12xbKDZPNE8
Note: $74 Jet.com has it cheaper. (GET THE BLUE AS I MADE IT A BLUE BUILD)
CPU:Intel Core i7-2600 Quad-Core Processor 3.4 GHz 8 MB Cache LGA 1155 - BX80623I72600 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EBUXSU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nT12xb7BECNJC
Note: $164
MOTHERBOARD: ASUS P8H61-M LE/CSM R2.0 LGA 1155 Intel H61 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008NA1K0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_b112xb1T6M7HK
Note: $94
RAM: PNY Anarchy 8GB Kit (2x4GB) DDR3 2133MHz (PC3-17000) CL10 Desktop Memory (BLUE) - MD8GK2D3213310AB-Z https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012DT0IB6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_h412xb3VC5JNW
Note: $45
POWER SUPPLY: EVGA 500 W1, 80+ WHITE 500W, 3 Year Warranty, Power Supply 100-W1-0500-KR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_E512xb56068FP
Note: $37
GRAPHICS CARD: ASUS ROG STRIX Radeon RX 460 4GB OC Edition AMD Gaming Graphics Card (STRIX-RX460-O4G-GAMING) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1JVQI4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_z712xbFGF2Y2T
Note: $140

TOTAL: $554

Edit 2: As your budget is $600 and I don't know how lenient you are with going over or what, but an Asus RX 470 would be a better graphics card and would increase the total to around $650.

Edit 3:
AFTERMARKET CPU COOLER:Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan (RR-212E-20PK-R2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_E-12xbR7ZCHBK
Note: $28

Edit 4: If you want peripherals that's gonna be around $1000 in total for decent crap. I would suggest a 1080p 60hz monitor, a mechanical keyboard ( I use a G. Skillz KM780 RGB and it is fabulous), a nice pair of headphones HyperX cloud 2, and a nice set of speakers Logitech Z506. Also idk what you have but get a wifi adapter as well unless you can hook up to Ethernet which is highly recommended.

Edit 5: If any other questions just PM me glad to help you out more.

Edit 6: shit I forgot drives and OS. I'm too tired to link things anymore so I suggest getting a 128gb Samsung PRO SSD for your OS and main shit then get a Seagate 1TB HDD and you're good to go. Hopefully I covered everything.

Honestly 500-600 wouldn't make a very decent computer for a first rig. You can make one and well I made one just right now but that doesn't take into account peripherals. If you wanted 500-600 WITH peripherals that would have been the hardest budget build of my life. To maintain quality and performance, I'm cringing just thinking of it.

Audio-Technica ATH-AD700X... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009S332TQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Have had these for about 2-3 weeks now. These are probably the best or one of the best for hearing footsteps (open back headsets) and they're about $100 cheaper than the hd 599 or dt 990.

I pretty much bought the 3 suggested items that Amazon recommends, headphones with modmic 5 and the e10k dac and it's great. Headband is weird but it's been fine for me and very comfortable wearing for multiple hours, no issues of falling/sliding for me, but everyone's head is different.. Mic sounds great, and the dac is good for me since I can really crank up the volume and power headphones to fullest potential (I leave the dac around 5 I think), but, depending on your mobo, you might not need it for these. These do lack in bass some, hence why so good for footsteps, but the dac has a bass boost switch on the front that I use when listening to music and its sounds great.

I was using a logitech 930 and wanted a wired (had a lot of disconnects when gaming) quality headset specifically for r6. Super happy with these. A lot of the reviews specifically mention fps or even r6 as their usage too.

>Plus it all seems inefficient since I already have the LAN throughout the house.

If you already have Ethernet pulled to places all over the house, then wired Access Points is the obvious and correct answer.

Ubiquiti is the king of reliable Access Points. But switching to Ubiquiti requires a bit more knowledge than your typical wireless router / repeater system, so if you choose this, you'll have to do a bit of learning too.

For 900 sqft on two floors, you can likely get away with just one Access Point mounted on the First Floor in the Center. That would easily cover the floor, plus very likely cover the floors above and below it too. A Ubiquiti nanoHD is my go-to recommendation lately, but if you are trying to save some money, an AC-LITE is fine.

nanoHD:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Internal-1733Mbit-Ethernet/dp/B07FFNTLJD/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=nanohd&qid=1574904222&s=electronics&sr=1-4

AC-PRO:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=nanohd&qid=1574903775&s=electronics&sr=1-5

AC Lite:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_rm?ac_md=0-0-YWMgbGl0ZQ%3D%3D-ac_d_rm&keywords=ac+lite&pd_rd_i=B015PR20GY&pd_rd_r=382f4fce-b8fd-41f5-9d83-2ce30c7d4867&pd_rd_w=2JjVi&pd_rd_wg=IV1TH&pf_rd_p=e2f20af2-9651-42af-9a45-89425d5bae34&pf_rd_r=BRFTH2F9ZHRVN6T7YH6B&psc=1&qid=1574903705

Since you already have Ethernet presumably at ground level, you can also consider the Ubiquiti In-Wall units as well. These units provide you Wireless Access Points PLUS they give you two Ethernet ports at ground level. If you can get your gamer and game machines plugged into Ethernet instead of wireless, you'll have the ideal setup (streaming and other things are fine on wireless).

So maybe 1 ceiling mounted AP in the middle of the first floor, one in wall where the gamer is (for Ethernet ports as well as supplemental WiFi on the second floor), and maybe one In-Wall in the basement if needed (good chance it won't be).

AC-In-Wall:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-UAP-AC-Iw-Wireless-Access/dp/B06XZLP8Q6/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1YA0NR13TWSGZ&keywords=ubiquiti+in+wall&qid=1574903832&s=electronics&sprefix=ubiquiti+in+w%2Celectronics%2C199&sr=1-2

If you do get 2-3 Ubiquiti APs, you'll probably want a PoE switch to power them all. This is another expense, unfortunately, but makes installation much cleaner.

>Based on what I've read (and experienced before) one kungfu wireless router isn't likely to provide adequate coverage throughout the house.

If you didn't want to go the Ubiquiti route, your house is actually a pretty good candidate for an Asus or Netgear, since it's 900sf stacked on top of each other. These consumer routers are pretty good these days. Unless your house is all brick and metal, I don't see why it wouldn't cover it.

I would split your budget to get two headphones for dedicated use.

1. a. Gaming Headphone => Since you mainly listed FPS titles that require you to pin point footsteps and shots, I would recommend the Audio Technica ATH AD 700x (AD700x Amazon Link) for $92. These headphones are well respected and loved for FPS titles with the same requirements as yours. They don't need an amp and can be driven from your motherboard with ease.
   b. Gaming microphone => Get the ModMic 4.0 (ModMic 4.0 Amazon Link) for $50. These are great and can be driven using your motherboard. However I would suggest pairing them with something like this (USB Sound Card Amazon Link) for best results - add another $15 for this.
   
   
2. Music and movies headphone => Get something like the HD 599 (HD 599 Amazon Link) from Sennheiser if you want good balanced sound without breaking the bank. They are easy to drive using your mobo and if you get an amp down the line they will increase the volume of these headphones. These cans are like $149 now.
   
   ​
   
   So you will be spending $157 for the gaming headphone and mic and $148 for the music/movies headphone. I know this has a huge drawback of switching headphones when you want to do either, but you can also use the HD 599 for gaming as it has good imaging. The sound stage is not as wide as the AD700x but it is still good enough for positioning shots. However this will give you the (relatively) best of both worlds for your budget. :)

'Gaming' is just a term that's advertised to people who play video games. All these 'gaming' products are just advertising/word of mouth. Some gaming headphones might sound good but that's because people haven't heard what 'good' is and settle for the for it because of the hype, it's meant for 'gaming', friend/guildmate has it, don't know what else is out there.

What you really want is a headphone meant for music by a real music focused company and not one like Logitech, a company that makes mice, keyboards, speakers, headsets, webcams, etc.

You want a music company like Audio-Technica, Sennheiser, AKG, Grado, Shure, Bower & Wilkins and so on. Your ideal headphones will sound both great for music and great for gaming. It should last you a long time, it should feel like it's constructed well or made of better quality materials than what you see on 'gaming' headphones. I'm not sure what kind of music you're into, so I can't make any suggestions but I can give you starter things to look into. Check out the suggestion thread over in /r/headphones. :)

Philips SHP9500

Audio-Technica ATH-AD900X (also the 700X)

Sennheiser HD598

Remember, 'Gaming' is just term to cater to 'gamers' and their family/friends. It's just a gimmick, it's all marketing.

Headphones I've used the past 10 years.

• ATH-AD700 - Discontinued now, but cheap used, open back, under $50, one of the biggest soundstage, but lacks bass
  
• ATH-AD700X - updated revision of the ad700, under $100 on sale, tiny bit better bass. The stock pad made my ears sore since it touches the driver. I replaced it with memoryfoam BrainWavz pad, and they feel much better. Puts less pressure on my eyeglasses too.
  
• ATH-M50X - My go-to music headphone, but I use it for travel gaming too since they fold up nicely and closeback for noise isolation.
  
• ATH-AD900X - Better version of AD700X
  
• Philips Fidelio X2 - About $200 on sale, a little bit less soundstage than AD700X, but much better bass. If you can splurge, I highly recommend this. They are balanced type headphones. Basically replaced the the M50X for music listening and AD700X/AD900X for gaming. It feels really nice, pad fits much better than the AD700X. I forget I am actually wearing headphones. If this is too expensive, SHP9500, is a cheaper alternative at 1/3 the cost.
  
• All of the headphones listed above are low impedance meaning you don't need an amp to get good sound output.
  
• Most gaming specific headphones aren't that good for the price. You're paying mostly for the marketing. Get any decent audiophile headphone and it will be much better.
  
   
  
  Virtual surround sound I've used
  
  
• Xonar U3 - Got this to replace my broken mobo sound, but found out it does virtual surround sound. Basically simulates 5.1/7.1 sound on a 2 channel headphone. Used it for many years gaming. Sounds awesome with good headphone that has big soundstage. Nice to hear directional audio to know here footsteps are at in games. Also acts like an amp with boost mode for high impedance headphones.
  
• Razer Surround Sound - free, but the worst virtual surround sound I've heard. Things sound muffled.
  
• Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi - Upgraded to this, it has better virtual surround sound technology.
  
   
  
  Hate wired headphone?
  
  
• How to convert wired phones into wireless gaming one
  
   
  
  Microphone
  
  
• ModMic - Used this for many many years, but got tired of wires dangling around
  
• Blue Yeti - Audio quality is so much better than the modmic, but it is big. Use a mic stand or arm.

Audio Interface: Roland Quad-Capture

Headphones: Beyerdynamic DT 770

CPU: Ryzen 5 1600

GPU: NVidia GTX 1050

HDD: Seagate BarraCuda 2 TB

SSD: Samsung 850 EVO 250 GB

RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x8 GB

Here's why I chose these components.

Audio Interface: All of Roland's products that I used were well-built, aesthetic and most of all sounding great!

Headphones: I've been using these exact headphones for about 5 years and they are very comfortable, robust and precise in sound.

CPU: The new Ryzen CPUs are in my opinion perfect for music production. They have a nice price-performance ratio and give you 6 cores and 12 threads which can beneficial when using at least 12 tracks (which I assume you will).

GPU: The NVidia GPU is capable of handling most games that are not too graphically intense. You can also pick an equivalent AMD GPU, I have always been with NVidia so that's what I chose.

HDD: The Seagate BarraCuda hard drives are cheap but they work perfectly and 2 TB should be enough to handle all the programs and sample libraries.

SSD: To be honest, I just heard great things of these SSDs. I am sure you can also pick a different brand but I wouldn't risk that with the SSD. 250 GB should be enough for your OS and DAW.

RAM: 16 GB is more than enough and the clock speed of that RAM is pretty high.

Of course you also need other stuff like a PC case, power supply, monitor etc. but I figured I would let you choose these components since they are mostly personal preference. However, I would advise against very cheap power supplies. You don't want them to blow up the whole computer.

Sounds like the 305's would fit the bill then, you may have to hang them, but for the dollar they are very good.

>Years ago, people used to be all about tweeters. Is it worthwhile having one?

Er, the tweeters on the LSR's are very good, Im not sure if you are confusing the waveguide tops on the speakers with a traditional dome tweeter. Both serve the same purpose, but the waveguide just distributes sound better than domes do at this pricepoint.

The only thing you may want with these speakers is a separate subwoofer. If you want to get one, it'll be a tight fit in the $600CDN you have to spend on the audio stuff.

This would probably work, but would put you $50 over:

https://www.amazon.ca/America-12-Inch-430-Watt-Down-Firing-Subwoofer/dp/B0000Y2WYS

Good response down to about 30Hz, which should compliment the LSR's nicely in your small room though if you can spend a bit more, the F12's are a bit better:

https://www.amazon.ca/BIC-America-F12-475-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B0015A8Y5M/

Doesn't matter much. Personally, I'd take the t2i because it's a level "above" the Nikon D3x00 series (the D5x00 series is Nikon's equivalent), but see also below.

I wrote this for some other threads:

The T2i and 18 - 55mm are fine places to start; so are their Nikon and Sony equivalents. If you have any friends who are interested in photography, ask them and buy whatever they use, because they'll be able to help you better than a bunch of people on the Internet. The differences among cameras at this level are really small—think f/11 small—and you're better off learning how to use your camera and how to think photographically than agonizing over which to buy.

If you're like most people, you'll eventually want to explore fixed-length primes. Canon sells a $100 50mm prime, and so does Nikon. Once you have some experience with the kits lens and the "nifty 50," you'll be ready for something else—but what that "something else" is depends on what you shoot.

See the Digital Photography Review Canon t2i guide, the Digital Photography Review learning guide, and How to make the jump from automatic to manual. If you have questions after reading them closely, come back and ask.

The important thing is learning your camera and training your eye. For the former, a knowledgeable user can help; so can a book. I got David Busch's t2i guide and like it fine. I'm sure there are others; get whichever you see as most useful.

i'll save you some time.

 

the top 1080p 144hz 1ms TN Panel they recommend over there on every post that asks, #1 is the Viewsonic XG2401

& #2 is the LG 24GM77-B

they say these two have the best color accuracy for a tn.

 

i recommend the Samsung CFG70

it has better color accuracy than both of those monitors above (because it's a VA panel and not a TN) and colors look as good as on my other IPS display IMO. (IPS panels have the best color accuracy)
and it has great viewing angles unlike a TN panel.
also it's $70 off rn. i really wouldn't pass this offer up as you're getting better color accuracy and better viewing angles for only $20 more than the Viewsonic.

 

good luck (:

Budget < $150 US

Source: surface pro 3, ipod

Isolation: Passive - Want to be able to sit with a study group and not be distracted by annoying people.

Public: yes

Preferred type: IEM

Balance: neutral/warm

Past headphones: Shure E2s from 2006.

Sennheiser HD 570

Preferred Music: Jazz and classical for studying. Also rock, folk, etc. Not much of a basshead at all but if there is bass in the song then I want to know it's there.

More info: Looking for a durable set of headphones that can survive being carried around in my backpack, so if it comes with a small case that is a plus. I've had the shure e2s since '06 and the right ear wire is finally splitting, and shocking me. They were pretty awesome headphones for the time and have held up wonderfully over the past 10 years.

I'm currently trying to decide between the Shure SE215 and the Ety HF5. I was sold on getting the shure until I saw they were bass heavy. Then I saw the HF5s which have good reviews but it looks like they have weird ear plugs which I don't know if they would fit.

I've looked through some of the links at the top and it's a bit overwhelming. Any suggestions to push me towards the se215 or the HF5, or a different set all together would be super helpful. Thanks!

First I will start this out with: I have never bought headphones worthy of the name "audiophile". But im very interested in learning about different headphones and such.

Budget - $200 flexible budget

Source - computer motherboard connections or amp if needed

Isolation - none

Will you be using these Headphones in Public? - No

Preferred Type of Headphone - Around ear

Preferred tonal balance - balanced

Past headphones - Razer Kraken 7.1, I liked the leds ha nothing else.

Preferred Music - I listen to many types of rock. From Smashing Pumpkins to bands like Five Finger death Punch.

What would you like to improve on from your set-up - More comfort, better sound, better everything.

• I will be using these headphones for hours nonstop each day so i would like them to be comfortable.
  
• I play games on steam for many hours, listen to music and I watch you tube a lot.
  
• I would like headphones that preferably have open back so I can hear myself talk in a game and also because I heard that a wide sound stage really helps in games that sound is vital (like csgo which I play a good amount).
  
• If I would need a amp to run the headphones that would be fine also.
  
  Currently what Im thinking of getting is the
  Sennheiser HD 598 SE with the FiiO E10K amp/dac and a modmic 5.0.
  
  Basically what Im asking is for the much more experienced in sound to suggest what you think I should get headphone and amp wise (if needed). Thank you all that respond.

The KEF Q100 $250 closeout at kefdirect.com is sold out. KEF does not have any more. Amazon dropped the price of what they had in stock to match. Now that they are sold out at KEF, the amazon algorithm raised them back up to $550 MSRP. Unless anyone else has any to sell, and I don't think anyone else has them, then I doubt Amazon is going to lower the price again unless they want to close them out.

To me these sound at least as good and maybe better than the Q100s I demoed. Wavecrest Audio HVL-1, order on sale here at Ascend $80 each + shipping.

If going 2.0 without a subwoofer, Philharmonic AAPM $290 + shipping. 14 day in home trial. They have a newly upgraded tweeter and have one of the best low ends of 6.5" speakers in the price range and don't necessarily need a subwoofer for music or right away for home theater.

Others, best with a subwoofer:

Ascend CBM-170 $300 + $30 shipping. Neutral sound with a flat frequency response. Best budget audiophile and home theater speakers I have found and own for 50/50 music and movies under $500. Great highs, mids and lows. Nothing missing, nothing overly accentuated. Much better than the Q100s.

Chane A Series $340 + $25 shipping. Flat planar tweeters.

On sale: Polk Audio Signature S20 $245.

DIY: Classix II MT Bookshelf Speaker Kit with Knock-Down Cabinet $232 a pair. Or Helix Dome MTs.

Receiver:

Budget: Denon AVR-S530BT $160 refurbished 5.2 with HDCP 2.2 and HDMI 2.0B for 4k switching.

Recommended: Denon AVRX1400 $300 refurbished 7.2/5.2.2 with Audyssey MultEQ.

Budget subwoofers: Dayton Sub1200 $140, BIC F12 $200, Bic-Acoustech-PL-200 $300.

Better subwoofers: 10" HSU VTF-1 MK3 is $455 shipped or an open box SVS PB1000 is $420 shipped.12" HSU VTF-2 MK5 $580 shipped on sale. Or a 12" Rythmik LV12F front ported, $550 shipped, when it becomes available in December (currently shown is the older rear ported version).

Guides: How to Set Up a Basic Home Theater System - Lifewire, r/HTBuyingGuides FAQ, How to Set Up Your Home Theater Receiver

Speaker Placement: Stereo Music Listening, Home Theater

​

>If I do move to an apartment down the road, would they be too loud even without a sub?

No, just turn down the volume.

>are two speakers such as these really a significant improvement over something like a recent Samsung or Vizio soundbar -- enough to justify the cost differential?

Yes, definitely for home theater, even more so for music.

Also consider a center speaker.