Reddit mentions: The best portable audio & video products

I'm dispensing my advice from this being year seven, and from the angle of being a worker/support and manning a booth (go /r/dcdarknet) . Makes for a lot of walking and a lot of time staying put at a booth. (Note, I add and update this every year, and then save it because the question will always be asked again).

Fluids (if any tl:dr -- keep fluids up at all cost)

• Water flask - Go and get a durable bottle that you'll use the whole weekend to refill. I have a couple of these water flasks You are going to want to drink the water down, and refill this when you can. I've found a lot of times there are water coolers, but the cups ran out. This flask tucks nicely into a bag or large pocket. Doesn't seem to leak or puncture.
  
• Water additives - Go get something to add to your water for electolytes. Yes, you'll lose more than just water. Pack a small batch of something like these NUUN tablets and mix them into that water flask. Bonus, retain the little tube they came in to store lockpicks or whatever other little itmes you might accumulate.
  
• Caffeine - you should do caffeine as the water additives. A lot of the "caffeine delivery systems" you will encounter will also dehydrate you. See the section on vitamins and drugs. There is also little refrigeration, so you'll just be drinking warm Mountain Dew. Get some caffeine with your meal if you need to.
  
• Alcohol - you can use one of those water flasks to carry some booze. But one flask must be water at all times. I generally have two flasks on me, one of water, one of moonshine, etc. Minibottles are great too, you can get them at home and pack them into toiletries.
  
  Note: I've stopped drinking for the duration of the con, since it is easy to get into a bad spot, dehydrated, and I've got contests depending on my help (plus you get to see more cool things). Just my stance after six years, and probably why the goons don't drink on the job: not that they can't, just that they are responsible. If not responsible for anything, hell, you're in Sin City, do what you want.
  
  "The best things I put in my mouth all weekend of DEFCON":
  
  These natural throat losenges are great. I gave out all that I had to the good people working booths, and got the quoted reaction. It helps for just socializing an talking for hours and hours in the desert, and getting your voice back.
  
  Snacks
  
  
• Protein - it's just natural energy. Get some protein bars, eat one each morning. Beef jerky works out well too. A lot of people crowd breakfast places, when you should be lining up for awesome things instead. You should also match this with water/electrolytes. It'll fuel you for the day.
  
• Sugar - yeah, don't really load up on this. You'll just crash at the most inconvenient time. This ties into the sodas/caffeine thing.
  
• Chips and General Snacks - sure, find these somewhere if you have to. Best place is offsite, head towards the Tuscany, and there's a 7Eleven over there. Or do a run with people to Wal-Mart or something. If you're doing that, get PB&J ingredients.
  
  Drugs
  
  
• Multivitamins - Get some multivitamins, and start taking them now or in the month leading up to DEFCON. I generally get StressTabs Energy and take them to keep me on my game. Combats hangovers well.
  
• Vitamin D - this also rocks, and most of us won't see the sun for a few days anyways.
  
• Hangover additives - again, back to that water flask. Use some sort of tablets like these I like tablets, because then you'll drink water. Just packing tylenol/asprin will generally get you to take a swallow of water with the pill, when you really should get a full flask of fluids, or more.
  
• Anti-diarrhea drugs. I know there is the fun of Shittercon, but you eat some bad party food or share a flask with someone that has some bug, you'll rather have the anti-diarrhea drugs than become a Shittercon VIP. Plus, diarrhea dehydrates you in the desert.
  
  Tech
  
  
• Ethernet cable - you'll at least want to try to be on wired vs wireless. Plus, you can connect into LAN Taps, etc., should anything like that arise among your buddies.
  
• Laptop? - My thoughts, bring something. I've had years where I didn't use it. But having the ability to look something up, examine a forensics challenge, is useful.
  
• Thumbdrives - useful for a LiveCD boot, and also useful if you need to take files that are being distributed. Copy off a new distro or a tool that is released. Again, be safe with taking files from strangers.
  
• Battery charger - small and large works for me. These are also handy for providing a charge to any pis, badges, or random devices you might use.
  
• Batteries - you'll have electronic badges, and the batteries provided might suck. Bring some good and fresh ones. The few spots that sell them charge an outrageous amount. I'm talking AAAs, AAs, CR2032s.
  
• Solder gear - bring a soldering iron if you can. You're dealing with a lot of the cheapest irons being used by people with varying degrees of skill. The tips can get kinda janky too. Using a bad tip that is about the shape of a pencil ERASER is gonna be a frustrating time for you.
  
• Solder gear pt 2 - If not bringing an iron, bring support items. Bring better solder. Bring better solder wick, solder sucker, desolder braid, flux. Also bring a flush cutter to cut the wires. That small list of stuff is invaluable and can fit in a ziplock bag. HHV generally provides cheap irons with bad tips and the lowest-grade solder. (No fault to them, they're setting it up free, and the tips simply get bad from heavy use).
  
• I've never done a throwaway or burner phone. Lock down / harden your phone and back it up / take an image before you go, and restore from it after. If anyone wanted to target you bad, you're going to have a bad time regardless of what phone you have, but there are probably softer targets anyways. And make friends, don't give people a reason to come after you and your phone should be fine.
  
  Inventory
  
  
• Footwear - bring two sets of con footwear. I have super-comfy things, but I use two, because sometimes your feet just need to be in something different.
  
• Bags - don't be a damn turtle. I usually either carry what I need in my Utilikilt, or use a small slingbag such as the Bag of Holding and you can add to any bag a Grid-It system , as this 8x12 fits well. Helps keep smaller things organized, and I also use it to organize charging cables, with the battery at the bottom, and the device able to connect up top.
  
• Bags (2017 Addition) - This BUBM organizer / bag is outstanding, and I keep this in my bag now instead of (or sometimes in addition to) the Grid-It.
  
  
  Prepare Thyself
  
  
• Start drinking your water now or in the month leading up to DEFCON, just to get the habit up. I scripted a box that pops up at my work computer every hour to have me finish my water and refill.
  
• Start doing drugs. I mean, the multivitamins referenced above, and vitamin D.
  
• If you want to brush up on first aid, or even Wilderness First Aid (for when aid might be a bit distant, which kind of happens in the craziness of the con), and have the means to do so, please do. It'll help us and your fellow con goer.
  
  Some last notes:
  
  
• This is not to scare you out of the horrors of the con. It is not that bad, just Be Prepared is all that.
  
• If you're having a shit time and can find me (I will make myself identifiable as Belouve), I'll help you out. Goons are also good people too.
  
• If Official Defcon peeps like /u/DTangent or /u/1o57 or the mods want to pin or use my tips somewhere, feel free to do so. I might copy this to my GitHub so I can reference, update, and copy/paste this easier.
  

Okay! With those parameters, assets, and budget, you have two good options.

The first, and probably easiest, will be doing exactly what /u/MacintoshEddie has suggested and throwing $400 at a local filmmaker and seeing what they can do with your well developed idea.

The second is, in my opinion, more fun, but it'll also require you to learn a little about filmmaking yourself.

The good news is, you already have most of the tools you need to create a "my first documentary" video and do it well. The camera on the iPhone 7 is better than any camera you're going to purchase below $200, and if you drop a couple bucks on a tripod and iphone adapter you're going to be set.

The biggest downside for you will be audio. Audio is the thing most fresh-faced filmmakers overlook, but it's just as-- if not more-- important as video quality. The onboard microphone in the iPhone is oooookay, but if you're more than 3 feet away from your subject, it'll get dicey. And unfortunately, this is the only place the iPhone falls short of a $250 Canon t2i.

Traditionally, there are two ways to do audio: in-camera and synced. In camera is when the audio and video are recorded together inside whatever camera you're using. This is a little tricky for the iPhone, because it's harder to attach a decent microphone. There are ways, but I'm not fluent in them. If this were a DSLR like the t2i mentioned above, I'd suggest you drop $150 for a Rode Videomic and call it a day. Since that's not an option (that I know of-- there might be a 3.5mm microphone jack adapter for the iPhone 7!), we need to look at the second audio solution: synced.

Synced audio is when you record the audio and video separately, and then synchronize them in post production. First off, post production is a fancy way of saying "editing the video." For professionals, there's a whole lot more than just editing, but for you, this'll be when you're bringing the footage onto your macbook and likely editing in iMovie.

For synced audio, the best option will be purchasing an $85 Tascam DR-05, a cheap microphone boom stand, and this adapter. Attach the DR-05 to the boom, throw something heavy on the base of the stand, and you'll have a good setup to capture audio for interviews and stationary events. However, you will need to "slate" each shot.

A slate is that black and white clapper board you see whenever film is depicted in media. It's purpose to to create a spike in the sound, as well as a visual indicator, so whoever is editing the footage can synchronize the audio and video. You can get away without a slate by simply clapping your hands in front of the camera.

If you go this route, I would suggest ONLY trying to do audio for interviews, and maybe stationary events where your camera won't move around. The audio captured on your iphone for "action" shots or "in the wild" shots will be okay as long as you have decent quality audio for the interviews. This will also save you time while editing, because syncing audio is a pain in the butt.

Now, if you haven't been scared away yet, and still want to spend a little money to make those interviews look extra-sexy, imma talk about some of my favorite lights on the market right now.

I've thrown together a $180 light kit for you that'll help you light your subjects in most lighting conditions. I use the YN600 Air for a key light (main light), and the YN300 for a fill light (remove unwanted shadows, dark background, etc). They're not as bright as some other LED options, but you won't need to worry about modifying the light at all. The YN Air series does a wonderful job of creating a nice, soft lightsource that won't screw with skintones or create harsh shadows. I've also thrown in two good stands that include a bag, and two power adapters to run the lights. If you want, you can spend an extra $60 on NPF batteries and chargers (I'd suggest these and then these ) to make the lights completely mobile). In addition to being excellent video lights, I've found I also keep my 300 set up in my room as a evening reading lamp!

Obviously, the lighting isn't necessary, but I promise you it'd be worth the investment when it comes to the final quality of your video. Both have an extremely easy learning curve, produce excellent results without needing to set up screens of diffuse, and their size makes them an afterthought when traveling.

So now that you're overwhelmed with all that info, let me recap!

Option 1) Have someone else do it!
Pros: You need to learn less, less stressful, less time spent on your end
Cons: Limited scheduling flexibility, $400 won't secure someone for months-on-end

Option 2) Do it yourself!
Pros: Complete control over the final product, working on your own time without worrying about other people, and new toys!
Cons: way more work, way more learning

Overall, you have two solid options to make this work. You could even combine the two: get the tripod and grab "on site" shots while paying someone else to produce your interviews. You'd still be up for editing, but you wouldn't have to worry about the nicer quality audio/syncing. With either option, you're going to end up being the producer/director of this video, which means you'll be doing the scheduling and coordinating, as well as creating the idea and communicating it exactly to everyone else you're working with.

Even though this may all seem really overwhelming right now, the best way to get the documentary done is to simply start working on it. Write up a summary of your vision, start asking around, and trust yourself to create something good. This subreddit is an excellent resource, as well as plenty of youtube channels and other forums out there. Additionally, if you ever have any questions, don't hesitate to shoot me a message. :)

Then we are kindred spirits. If I'd had more disposable income when I originally started looking for a bag, I would already have the Adapt pack in hand.

I love everything about the Adapt pack EXCEPT the total lack of organization inside it. It wouldn't even be so bad if there were better options for organization outside of it, but with the shock cord, it doesn't leave much usable space for that without hindering the shock cord.

There are three options that I have come up with, although there may be a better one I haven't yet realized. Here are the drawbacks of each. The pros should already be obvious to you since you've decided you like the bag.

1. Get a different backpack.
   
   

• Not likely to have any/all of the additional supplementary features
  
• May not be as well made (maybe not US made)
  
• May not be as nice looking
  
• May have less favorable coloring options
  
  

2. Get external organization
   
   

• May hinder shock cord
  
• Reduces the 'streamline' appeal of the simple bag
  
• Adds additional cost and weight to the bag
  
  

3. Get internal storage
   
   

• Not many well constructed options
  
• Adds additional cost and weight to the bag
  
• May remove ability to carry certain larger items
  
  
  For internal storage, I'm not seeing a lot of options that really stand out to me. Nothing that says, "That's perfect!". There are a couple options out there. The longer I look the more I'm finding as well.
  
  From your statement, I'm guessing you're looking for something to fit inside of the rear pocket that would attach to the loop field in there. Maybe externally on the loop field on the back? Well, I'll address the inner field first.
  
  Maxpedition Hook and Loop Mini Organizer
  
  Maxpedition Hook and Loop Medium PALS panel
  
  
  Also, check out here for some more ideas. Apparently Skinth can make any of their pouches with a hook field on the back!
  
  For the small loop field on the outside of the bag, I'd love to get something like the Maxpedition Hook and Loop Zipper Pockets which would fit nicely up there I'd think (instead of patches).
  
  You could also slap something like a Maxpedition EDC or a Fatty on the side of the bag instead of the rear to retain use of the shock cord.
  
  You could always move the shock cord around though if it's an issue. I was contemplating the usefulness of the cord itself one day, and figured if I ever wanted or needed it on a bag that didn't have it, I could pretty easily source some and run it through any MOLLE/PALS webbing that was on said bag.
  
  As far as internal organization. The best thing I've seen are dapper style organizers. Blue Force Gear makes one that seems to be pretty popular and could be used in conjunction with any Velcro pouches listed above to create a highly customizable, easily swap-able, inner organization sleeve. Since I don't know how well they'd fit on either of the fields mentioned above, this is the place I'm going to also mention Mountain Ridge Gear who also makes a few nice looking velcro backed pouches. The Grid It is another option, although I've heard mixed reviews from people who've tried them. Also, I think it might be a hair larger than the internal size of the Adapt pack. I may be wrong there though.
  
  My biggest issue is that all of these options add up in cost and weight. You end up spending a lot of time sourcing these things and waiting for them to arrive. It drives up the cost of the total bag, and starts to pile up shipping costs if you don't know exactly what you want (buying one at a time) or have to shop several vendors. At what point would it have been better to have just gotten a bag with more organization to start with? Is it a pro or a con to have everything removable?
  
  Basically it comes down to preference. If you absolutely have to have the Adapt pack, do it! The quality is right up there. Once you get it decked out with your pouches you will certainly be able to say it is 'Yours'. However that versatility and modularity will likely hit your wallet a little harder than a bag that can do what you need it to do right out of the gate.
  
  Now personally, I agree. The Adapt pack is basically what I am looking for. However, in order to get it where I will ultimately want it, I'm likely looking at another $50-80 in added pouches, patches, and dappers. Wheras I could take the loss of the ability to sling the bag, and the better color options, and grab a 5.11 Rush 12 and be able to do essentially what I want to do with it without having to buy anything extra....except maybe some shock cord.
  
  
  For a couple more things about the Adapt pack check this link.
  
  For a little more info on the Blue Force Gear Dapper and what you can do with it, check out this link

Bags

• (1) [Filson Medium Field Bag](http://www.filson.com/products/field-bag-medium.70232.html?fromCat=true&fvalsProduct=luggage/field-bags&fmetaProduct=1019): This is my usual every day bag, and I rarely leave the house without it. After a long search for a bag last year, I decided to buy the Filson (and get it shipped from the US); I'm glad I did – the quality is fantastic, and it looks practically the same as it did on its first day.
  
  -or-
  
  
• (2) [Filson Briefcase Computer Bag](http://www.filson.com/products/briefcase-computer-bag.70257.html?fromCat=true&fvalsProduct=luggage/briefcases&fmetaProduct=1019): If I ever take my MacBook Air with me outside of the house (usually to some work at a coffee shop), or if I go on a flight, I'll take this bag. It's rarely used in comparison to the Field Bag, but it's worth a mention nonetheless.
  
  Gadgetry
  
  
• (3) [iPad (third generation) - Wi-Fi and 4G](http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00746V5DY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=yoarthwo0e-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00746V5DY) with (4) [Byrd & Belle felt pouch](http://www.byrdandbelle.com/product/ipad-kindle-sleeve-gray-wool-felt-and-brown-leather), and (5) red leather Smart Cover: The iPad has been an integral part of my EDC since the original iPad. I seem to be getting more and more done on the iPad – whether it's emailing, writing with Byword or reading news with Reeder.
  
• (6) [iPhone 4](http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0041E5G32/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=yoarthwo0e-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0041E5G32) with (7) [Sena Tan Leather pouch](http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003X9ZJSS/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=yoarthwo0e-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B003X9ZJSS)
  
• (8) [13" MacBook Air](http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CWHZP4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=yoarthwo0e-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B005CWHZP4) with (9) [Byrd & Belle felt pouch](http://www.byrdandbelle.com/product/macbook-air-sleeve-gray-wool-felt-and-brown-leather)
  
• (10) [Fujifilm X100](http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0043RS864/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=yoarthwo0e-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0043RS864) with [Leather Case](http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MME698/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=yoarthwo0e-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B004MME698): I used to own a Canon 7D, but its size is so unwieldy for me in practice, that it ended up not being used. Instead, I've swapped it for the X100 – sure the lens is fixed, but I mainly used a prime lens with the 7D anyway; the APS-C sensor is a boon, especially for the camera's small size. The software is a little finicky, but the cassis and build quality is fantastic.
  
• (11) [Etymotic HF3 Earphones with Mic with pouch](http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003YTROIU/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=yoarthwo0e-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B003YTROIU)
  
• (12)[ B&W P5 Headphones](http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003IHUHGE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=yoarthwo0e-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B003IHUHGE): If I have the rare inclination to listen to music (I usually listen to podcasts) and am happy to take the additional hassle compared to the HF3s, I'll sometimes use the P5s. The design and construction is amazing and the audio quality is great, although the leather pads do get a little hot after a while on my ears.
  
• (13) [Amazon Kindle 4](http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051QVESA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=yoarthwo0e-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0051QVESA): Reeder and Instapaper are great on the iPad, but the Kindle is much better for novel reading. The iPad 3's new screen is on par (if not better) than e-ink, but the Kindle's much smaller size and weight is a necessity for prolonged periods of reading.
  
  Accessories and Miscellaneous
  
  
• (14) [Cocoon GRIT-IT! Organiser](http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002HU27UW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=yoarthwo0e-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B002HU27UW): This incorporates, (15) [Studio Neat Cosmonaut Stylus](http://www.studioneat.com/products/cosmonaut); (16) Barclays PinSentry card reader; *(17) Zebra F-701***; **(18) iPad SD Card Reader; (19) [Griffin USB Mini-Cable Kit](http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003T5KXJQ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=yoarthwo0e-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B003T5KXJQ); (20) [USB Battery Pack](http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000UH46YY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=coffee-coffee-21&linkCode=as2&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B000UH46YY)
  
• (21) Polo Ralph Lauren Leather Card Holder
  
• (22)[ Seiko SNK809 Automatic watch](http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002SSUQFG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=yoarthwo0e-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B002SSUQFG) with [Hirsch Liberty leather strap](http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002ZJIVNW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=lawrencemurga-21&linkCode=as2&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B002ZJIVNW)
  
• (23) Keys including [True Utility Cashstash](http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JUDJBG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=yoarthwo0e-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B002JUDJBG), [LaCie 8GB Key](http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004D2AZ0Q/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=yoarthwo0e-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B004D2AZ0Q) and Barclays Cycle Hire key
  
• (24) Hand Sanitiser
  
• (25) Passport
  
• (26) Screen Cleaning Cloth

Soon to be masters grad (soprano) here.

A high quality recording device can be very useful. The non-musically inclined electrical engineer boyfriend bought me a Tascam DR-05 with a small stand and case for my birthday last year. (It also came with a fun lesson from him on how sound recording works -- talk about nerd-out connection!) It is wonderfully portable and I use it all the time to record lessons, coachings, and practice sessions. Also on the tech front, the best investment I EVER made as a singer was a great set of noise canceling headphones. (I have Bose QC-15s that I bought in 2010.) They are a godsend when I am traveling for auditions and have become an integral part of shutting out the rest of the world for my pre-performance/audition routine. In terms of listening to her own voice, good headphones or speakers are pretty much a requirement since most speakers/headphones can't handle the high upper partials of the high notes in the female operatic range.

What I always, always, always want for every occasion that merits presents are books and/or scores to build my personal library. There is a good chance that she has a list of things that she would like to own and you might consider asking if you're not invested in surprising her.

Nice opera scores are always a great option. Consider looking for a hard-bound score (like Ricordi or Bärenreiter) for one of the major mezzo role operas like Carmen, Werther, or Barber of Seville. (They are not particularly cheap.) You might consider asking her singer friends what roles she might be expected to sing during her career to guide your selections.

A great song cycle for mezzo could also be a nice gift. Jake Hegie's [The Deepest Desire] (http://www.sheetmusicplus.com/title/the-deepest-desire-piano-vocal-score-sheet-music/19646133) is still under copyright so she wouldn't just be able to print it from a free online resource like imslp.

Reference books could also be a great idea since she's about to lose access to a lot of materials that she has probably used on a regular basis through her university. A libretto collection and the New Kobbes Opera Book are two that immediately come to mind.

PLEASE NOTE: The PC350 cans have a 150 ohm impedance and wont sound proper unless you have something that can sufficiently power them.

My general recommendation here is that in this price range, always skip the PC350 headset and grab the HD598s + a clip-on mic. HD598s are only 50 ohm headphones and sound better than even properly powered PC350s. HD598s run about $100-150 USD Seriously! You'll thank me later. If you don't want to take that advice, hear me out at least before you buy something that may not work with your motherboard.

Don't feel bad if you don't know what this all means: I didn't either until I was in the market to buy headphones.

Basically, impedance is how much power these headphones require to output optimally. Impedance is measured in Ohms. If you don't have enough power, the headphones will still work, but the audio and bass will sound waaay lighter than it's supposed to. This is what is being spoke of when people say "hard to drive" or "easy to drive" headphones. Earbuds generally have around a 10ohm impedance. The HD598s have a 50 ohm impedance. The PC 350s a 150 ohm impedance. Something like the HD650s ($400-500) has a 300 ohm impedance.

So the next logical question is: What "drives" headphones? The answer is the hardware you're using it with. In order of best to worst AMP > Dedicated Soundcard > Motherboard > MP3 Player/Cellphone. Here's a good quick video giving you more information than I'll be able to relay to you quickly. It's very possible a higher-end motherboard has an existing amp that will run these babies nicely. I do know that GigaByte makes some high-powered motherboard amps. An AV receiver MAY also be able to run the PC350s properly, but as far as I know the headphone outs on AV receivers are generally quite shit.

If you go the amp route, you'll be looking at around $100 to just get these [PC 350] babies running. The HD598s would benefit slightly from an amp, but they'll sound almost perfect out of the box. Personally, I wouldn't recommend a soundcard under any circumstance unless you are looking for a cost-effective solution to add 5.1/7.1 to the mix. Soundcards can be hindered by electrical interference inside your case (cracking, hissing, popping etc.,). Personally, I always could "hear my mouse." The cheapest "quality" options here include the Schiit Modi 2/Objective2 > FiiO E10k. The O2/Modi 2 are relatively endgame non-tube amps while the FiiO will is less powerful, but can do the PC350s fine.

Now back to those HD598s. No, they are not a headset. But a $40 antlion will give you just as good/a better mic. If you google "HD598 vs. PC 350" it's pretty much universally agreed that the HD598s sound better and are more comfortable. This is a great comment backing that assertion.

If anyone has questions, feel free to throw em at me.

/u/gkmedia - I have the Azden EX-503 and the Zoom H1, but I would recommend a different mic and recorder.

The best value-for-the-dollar lav with a 3.5mm stereo output is the [$29 JK-MIC J 044] (https://www.amazon.com/JK-Lavalier-External-Microphone-Recording/dp/B012Z698ZE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20).

With its 20-20,000 Hz frequency response and >63dB signal to noise ratio, the JK has very good performance for the price. Much better than the Azden, with its 30-18,000 Hz frequency response.

Nice review of the JK [here] (https://youtu.be/pI9yeXjCb0E).

On the recorder side, I would get the [$84.99 Tascam DR-05] (https://www.amazon.com/TASCAM-DR-05-Portable-Digital-Recorder/dp/B004OU2IQG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) and save a few dollars over the H1.

Hope this is helpful, good luck and best of the holidays!

I am leasing mine. I drove a '97 Nissan pickup truck for 15 years. I don't drive more that 7K miles a year so I looked for the least expensive car to lease. It became a toss up between the Scion iQ - $99/month $1,919 due at signing and the Smart Car Pure Coupe – $107/month, $2,393 due at signing. I decided on the Smart Fortwo Pure Coupe. I decided on the Smart because:
1. It's made by Mercedes-Benz
2. Gets slightly better gas mileage than the Scion iQ.
3. Has a Mercedes-Benz Mitsubishi Engine

They advertise the Smart gets 36/38 city/hwy but I follow the Tips on Fuelly, feed it 91 octane as the manual recommends and am averaging 39.9 city, I don't drive hwy, don't have to. I got the base model and it came with a radio and A/C.

Being a bit envious of my friends that drive cars with all the latest technological gadgets I purchased a GOgroove FlexSMART X2 Wireless In-Car Bluetooth FM Transmitter with Charging , Music Control , and Hands-Free Calling for Smartphones which allows me to listen to Pandora, receive and make phone calls hands free and listen to the navigator on my Android phone all through the radio speakers. The GOgroove FlexSMART has a built in microphone and extra USB port to charge my Android phone while driving and simply plugs into the cigarette lighter. Also installed CarHome Ultra. And Power Widget Lite. So... when I'm ready to go, I turn on the GPS & Bluetooth using Power Widget Lite, start the GOgroove, start CarHome Ultra. Turn on the ignition, CarHome Ultra automatically pairs and connects to the GOGroove, plug the phone into GOgroove's Universal USB port, tap the Pandora button on CarHome Ultra and I am good to go. Sounds like a lot of work, but takes less than 30 seconds. I also have Ultimate Car Dock installed with a shortcut on CarHome Ultra so if I want to text and receive text I simply tap the Ultimate Car Dock shortcut on CarHome Ultra ( You can add shortcuts to apps on CarHome Ultra ) and can send & receive text messages via voice command.

Again, it takes a few seconds to set up before starting to drive but for a total of about $60 for the FM Transmitter and the apps I have all the "techie" bells and whistles (Or almost all of them ) of a $25 - $30K car.

I actually read the manual and also have it in PDF on my PC so I can search through it using key words.

The thing I especially like about Fuelly is you can text Miles or Odometer reading, Price of gas and how many Gallons ( M P G ) when you get car in the car after fueling and it returns your stats via text and updates your Fuelly page. For example, last time I filled up I texted
>1300 3.71 4.173 ( Mileage, Price & Gallons )

and immediately got a text back stating

>Fuel-up Added! MPG: 40.7, AVG MPG: 39.9.

Actual running cost so far after 7 weeks has been an average of $0.091 per mile for gas and my average MPG is 39.9 MPG city. Sure, I'm feeding it 91 octane which is on average about $0.15 to $0.20 more a gallon than regular but the great Avg MPG makes it worth it. Not to mention the fact that it is a lease and the manual recommends using 91 octane or above for maximum fuel efficiency.

My Brother has a VW Diesel and gets 40 MPG and we all know diesel is $0.20 to $0.30 more than premium.

Do I like my Smart Fortwo Coupe after driving a beat up '97 Nissan pickup for 15+ years? Damn right I do. Do I consider it an extension of my personality or drive it for the attention it gets? NFW.

And the comments I get are mixed, I either get " It looks like a death trap and I wouldn't be caught driving a silly little car like that" ( It has 8 air bags and a Tridium frame and was rated as "Good" on Car & Driver as far as safety goes.) or "What a nice little car, is it fun to drive?".

Do I give a flying fart what people think about the fact I am driving one? Not in the least.
IMHO it's an inexpensive and economical way to get around town. And when my lease is up, I fully intend to lease another one. ;-)

Direct support in iTunes for music players is quite lacking, for the most part without some extra work with buggy software, there's no workable solution using a non-Apple music player natively in iTunes. There are many players out there that allow drag-and-drop "support," but quality varies drastically between barely functional and audiophile-approved.

The FiiO X series, such as the FiiO X1 are high-resolution media players that are quite robust in their features and hardware, though direct support for iTunes is lacking. Not quite what you asked, I know, but they work with iTunes music and have incredible sound quality. The X1 for $99 (linked) is by far one of the best values in music players out there. The X5 is much more expensive but has what some consider to be a better UI and more features. I don't have experience with any of them except the X1, but that's because after buying an X1, I have not had any need or desire to have anything different.

(Disclaimer: I'm a sound engineer as my 'day' job and while I don't subscribe to a lot of the audiophile hype like $10,000 speaker cables and criticizing the difference between coaxial and optical cables for digital signal, I do find that the gear available for high-res audio does provide a very good experience in music listening. Do I think that with $40 headphones and MP3s that you're gonna hear the best sound? No. I also don't think that using lossless files and $1,000 headphones on the best preamps out there is going to revolutionize your music listening experience over a decent setup of well-researched, affordable components. Most people can hear a difference between average quality MP3 and the best lossless files out there when they know what they're listening for and they are played on a well-tuned pro audio system, but the difference between 256k MP3 and 192-kHz 24-bit lossless for most of us is so minute that the gear needed to experience the difference simply isn't worthwhile.)

Also warning sort of Game of Throne spoilers ahead around 6:10-6:47

Darth's notes:

• Starbucks Satanbucks has a chocolate chip frappe, ugh! What must it taste like?
  
• 5 Shots of espresso, you brave soul but it did result in an epic discord singalong:)
  
• They do have plain soy milk at Satanbucks, most soy milk is sweetened which is naturally a bit bitter.
  
• sex and candy by marcy's playground great song! takes me back.
  
• Suggestion instead of using a phone a personal audio recorder might work better: Tascam DR-05
  
• Words with friends: no but would love a game with ya :)
  
• Layla is a classic song! glad you're enjoying it!
  
• I am not a Celtics fan, basketball is the game with the sticks right?
  
• While I would enjoy more panties around the house I have enough of my own :)
  
• Tailor Swift is the reincarnation of Pattie Boyd, she looks exactly the same: (Pattie Boyd is still alive)
  
• Pattie Boyd: https://imgur.com/QEopoNx
  
• Bee Gees sing in a high falsetto, lol
  
• Placita Olvera, is also known as Olivera Street fantastic place to visit in LA, across the street from Union Station.

This page is a good start.
https://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2371334,00.asp

I recommend something with a i3 or m3 core/CPU. I'd also recommend a larger 15 inch screen with 1080p resolution for better video experience. Anything with 1tb or 500gb storage space are using spinning drives which are slower but you cant get high capacity SSD at this price range. And I dont think you are comfortable with taking the laptop apart and installing one your self?
Looks to me like the Acer Aspire E 15 (E5-575-33BM) and Asus F556UA-AB32 are the best bet. For my money I'd say the Acer.

Now since you are a couple who can share laptops I would recommend getting a very different 2nd laptop. Previous recs are heavy beast and you'll be better off leaving it at your new home and taking a smaller light machine for the road. Your back will thank you.

The Lenovo IdeaPad Miix 320 OR Lenovo ThinkPad 13 (2017) are both good options. Both has a smaller 128 gb SSD, Which will be a boon because they are much more shock resistant, spinning drives dont like long rides on bumpy roads much, just dont load that full of big movies. Neither have very exceptional processors, but you dont need that much for what think you'll be using it for, if you need to Photoshop or edit videos use the big one.

The second option, the Thinkpad, has a larger screen with higher resolution, but is also larger and heavier. The first option is smaller but lighter. Its actually a tablet (about the size of an iPad) that can detach from the keyboard dock, nice for reading in bed.

Overall for the second laptop the Thinkpad (2nd) is a better computer overall but the Ideapad(1st) might be better for your use case because you have a second laptop with a larger screen, processor, and storage.

You can set up separate accounts for each person on each laptop so you'll have your privacy.

Everything recommended will have unexceptional(at best) speakers, so consider grabbing a bluetooth speaker from Amazon. You can plug in the audio jack when at your desk or connect it by bluetooth to your phone or laptop to have some music around the house or at a picnic. This is what i use. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010OYASRG

Ok, First, you should read. There's a lot of information available online, but this is a good physical reference:

https://www.amazon.com/ARRL-Radio-License-Manual-Spiral/dp/1625950829/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541695126&sr=8-1&keywords=ham+radio+license+manual+2018

Second, a repeater is a station that takes in a signal and rebroadcasts it. Usually it's at a much higher power or better elevation. Elevation, power, and quality of antenna can all make a difference in average distance. Frequency can also make a difference. The radio you're looking at is a 2 meter band / 440 meter band radio. It broadcasts in the VHF (Very High Frequency) range and has a lower range than something in the HF (High Frequency) range. That probably means nothing to you right this moment because you don't have any context to base your knowledge on. But that should give you a couple terms to google.
The next thing you have to know is what repeaters are in your general area. That's a tough one. I am lucky enough to have some awesome ones in my area maintained by some really knowledgeable people. A good reference for what repeaters are in your area is here:

https://www.repeaterbook.com/

Third, the antenna. I got this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Authentic-NA-771-15-6-Inch-SMA-Female-BTECH/dp/B00KC4PWQQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541695485&sr=8-3&keywords=nagoya+na-771

It works well.

The way I get that much range is that one of the better repeaters is within 30 miles of my house and is both line of sight and I'm in it's range pretty much all day. Line of sight to the repeater can also make a difference. I'm sure others can suggest various other reading material for you about radio wave propagation and online study guides.

Feel free to PM me with any questions. I'm always happy to help!

Hmm, i did a quick search on your behalf. I found the manual for your TV here, but, i couldn't find anything to help on it, any subtitle sections don't seem to apply to USB media.

I did find a few people complaining about the same thing on similar models with no applicable solutions. Mostly, the only solution found was hardcoding or embedding which we don't want to do, it is a ton of work if you have a big collection, i wouldn't want to either. I was really hoping for a free solution but, looks like we may be out of luck on that front.

You could get a Nexus Player (around $40-50 in the US, depending on sales) and install Kodi on it, it does support external hard drives now, although you would need to buy a USB OTG cable as well (very cheap, like $5). Alternatively, /u/mrdaniellee and /u/OSPFv3 have good ideas but, it may require a good bit more setup.

This seems like it's exactly what you want ($40 in the US): http://www.amazon.com/Micca-Full-HD-Portable-Digital-Player/dp/B008NO9RRM/
However, i've never heard of this thing or even this brand, it may be a giant POS.

Yes! Well, kind of. I have limited experience, but here's what I know:

I've been eyeballing the Tascam DR-40 for a while... I want this one because it has XLR and 1/4" ins if I ever wanted to do a field recording with a nicer microphone. The built ins are condensers, and sound great, but I've never used it for more than voice. A buddy of mine has one of these, it is awesome.

The lower end Tascams seem really nice too, although I've never used them... the DR-07 can record in XY or AB, which is nice, and their entry model DR-05 seems pretty nice too, but for an extra $20, I'd probably go with the next level for AB/XY functionality.

And if you really want to spend the bucks, another friend of mine has a Sony PCM-D50, you can get these on eBay for around $500. AB/XY configurations, and dual condenser microphones. This thing is a beast... we've used it to record everything from concerts to a mosquito truck and everything turns out crystal clear.

Honestly if you are on a stock UV-5R, you may want to consider a few things.

Getting a better antenna for the HT itself.. the UV-5R's stock antenna is pretty lacking. Most people seem to end up with a Nagoya antenna such as:
http://amzn.to/1Y1CcbJ (shorter)
or
http://amzn.to/1Y1Clfg (longer)

Going with a rooftop antenna... Depending on the height of your roof and the risks involved getting up there you could try a simple JPole antenna that you could build (http://www.arrl.org/files/file/Public%20Service/TrainingModules/jpole-dual-band.pdf or http://www.n7qvc.com/copper-cactus-dual-band-super-j-pole-antenna-project/) or buy (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-Band-VHF-UHF-Base-Antenna-Ham-Commercial-MURS-GMRS-FRS-DBJ-1-/111884204187) or you could do a commercial antenna if like in my initial case, climbing to the top of the roof involves risking life and limb. I'll defer to others for suggestions on antennas, the Diamond X-30 and X-50's appear to be very popular.

In my early days as a ham I got a commercial dual band vertical which served me very well, but it was also up an insanely high pitch roof so I wasn't going to go up there again anytime soon. In my current setup, I'm quite happy with a simple Ed Fong Modified Jpole design in some PVC pipe on top of a 1 story roof.

Sometimes its a fun project to start building one even if you go commercial, its good to know your base antenna is of good quality and will last, but there is some joy in building it yourself and getting on the air knowing your handwork is the cause of your good signal :)

this has been my favorite case so far:
http://smile.amazon.com/Ringke-Absorption-Technology-Anti-Scratch-Protection/dp/B014RS5BHW/ref=sr_1_5?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1451311472&sr=1-5&keywords=nexus+5x+case
the button pressing action has been really nice--minimal resistance. the case itself is very customizable as you can use the template with any background or picture.

phone for use in my car:
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003PPGOC0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=A14FAFDFPQKMIV
best FM transmitter i've ever found, and highly reviewed via wirecutter.
i don't actually own this dash mount but man, do i want it. game changer. http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00RDQVPTY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3OJFHJG4QML3E&coliid=I10BBT1M2MULXT&psc=1
this http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M6QODH2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 and this http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S8GU2OC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01 make a pretty sweet car charging duo. the cable isn't flimsy, it's affordable, and spec compliant.
if one would be blessed not to need an fm transmitter on their automobile, i really like this http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00PTZEON0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3OJFHJG4QML3E&coliid=INI8K30WP9S4L&psc=1


finally, as you start playing around with ROMS (to improve device performance as stock is pretty buggy and not particularly bueno with respect to battery life) you'll inevitably start making backups in twrp. you'll need to. those take up a lot of space. to ameliorate that, i suggest these: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00ZWN64RS/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3OJFHJG4QML3E&coliid=I1YYV3CE6VXPNB&psc=1, http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YFI1EBC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

oh! there's also a pleson tempered glass screen protector on amazon for the 5x. it came in last week but i still haven't had a chance to install it. cheap and very highly reviewed.

The radio is an AnyTone AT-D868UV, a dual band (2M+440) with analog FM and DMR. Very popular with the DMR crowd, and even for analog it's a nice step up from the Baofengs.

The color display probably caught your eye. It was one of the reasons I bought the radio; I'm a sucker for nice displays. In DMR mode it shows you the callsign, name, and city of whoever is talking. In analog mode it shows the repeater name or frequency, so not so special in that mode.

This pretty TFT display does have a downside in that it's less usable in direct sunlight than the simple LCD in the Baofengs. (BTW don't be misled by the beautiful looking display you may see in listings for the BF-F8HP or RD-5R. That's not what it looks like; the display is actually identical to the honest photo of the UV-5X3.)

Audio quality for listening on the 868's speaker is nicer than the 5X3, with one exception: there is a "click" in the audio once per second if you're listening to a 2 meter analog repeater or station with a weak signal. AnyTone releases firmware updates about once a month, and they have fixed a number of other problems in those updates, so there is hope that this may be improved. (It's actually a hardware problem - the CPU emits radio frequency interference - but I think they could just wake up the CPU less often.)

Another interesting thing about the 868 is that it takes the same antennas as the Baofengs, and also the same accessory cables/microphones/etc. You don't need the FTDI cable that I recommended in another comment for the Baofengs though; the 868 comes with its own cable.

The 868 sells for about $170, so quite a bit more than the Baofengs but still well within the budget you mentioned.

Regarding the Diamond antenna vs. Signal Stick, each one has advantages and disadvantages. You can coil up the Signal Stick and tie it in a knot so it stays coiled for a nice little pocket-sized package. Its hand-made quality has a certain kind of amateur charm, and buying it supports the excellent hamstudy.org site. The Diamond is more professionally made, still flexible but not nearly as wiggly as the Signal Stick, and you can't tie it in a knot. Both seem to perform equally well.

Mumble details

URL: texans-mumble.duckdns.org
Port: 64378
Username: Pick your own.
Password: Hopkins

Join the Steam group, where the details are posted on an event there set for Jan. 20th!

For the uninitiated/non-gamers here, Mumble is a voice chat software that is pretty popular among gamers, but is basically just a voice conference thing with channels. Anyone on the sub that wants to talk about things that aren't gaming related are welcome as well, and I hope we can get a good turnout for playoff games and the Super Bowl as well as the upcoming draft.

To participate, you will need a headset with a microphone ^(EDIT: and a PC, of course, although there are apps for Android and iOS), or some other way of transmitting and receiving audio, and you can also modify an existing pair of headphones with a [ModMic](http://www.amazon.com/Antlion-Audio-ModMic-Attachable-Microphone/dp/B00T6XUL8S "There are also cheaper options available, look around!") if you want to join us.

You will need the Mumble software, which you can find at these links:

• Windows (32 bit)
  
• OS X
  
• Linux (Ubuntu)
  
  There are other options for Linux, but I'm going to assume that if you're running Linux, you can manage to figure it out on your own :P.
  
  I do want this to succeed, so even if you don't game, consider joining for the championship playoff games and piling in to the free chat!
  
  EDIT: The server may be down quite a bit tonight, as I am still configuring and upgrading and changing things. It should be far more stable come the weekend.
  
  EDIT (1/21/16): The server is up and ready now, it previously was running with bad permissions and not letting anyone join.

>I have a Baofeng UV-5R, and I really liked the learning curve of it all: CHIRP, the miklor.com site, discovering I can't do IRLP (stupid "D" tone doesn't work on the new Baofeng firmware).

I'm new too, passed my test on 5 July, got my callsign less than a week later. I got the BF-F8+ (which is supposedly the same as a UV-5R).

On my local repeaters there is IRLP, but it isn't set up so that just anyone can use it. You have to have permission. That said, the most popular repeater in my area is connected to the reflector in Denver all the time pretty much.

My community is pretty lively and active in the ARES and other emergency services. I'm listening to how they run nets every week, and actually last night there was a forest fire and they ran a standby net. I'm thinking of volunteering for that too. We have events that the local emergency organizations help with, like recently the Eppie's Great Race. All that you need to volunteer for stuff like that is a HT and a license.

Another thing I did was make an antenna following this tutorial.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HkmD3Sgz7Q0

I haven't been able to try it over simplex yet. I did try it with my local repeater (N6ICW) but I guess I'm close to one of the receivers because I get reports that I'm full quieting with even with my Nagoya NA-771, so my home made antenna didn't sound any different for better or worse.

It looks like you have a fair number of 2M repeaters in and around Atlanta (I'm guessing that's where you're near). Maybe try listening on a few different ones. http://www.levinecentral.com/repeaters/google_mapping.php

Also I found this: http://www.nfarl.org/repeaters/Atlanta_Area_Repeaters.pdf

On the second page it list a bunch of nets, more than one every day of the week, try listening to some of those to see if there is something that piques your interest.

Also if you are still using the duck antenna, get rid of it and get one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Nagoya-Updated-Antenna-BaoFeng/dp/B00KC4PWQQ/

There is no one single format the Roku supports. It supports a multitude of formats with various levels of settings within those formats. Here is a complete list of everything they support, along with encoding guidelines for each format.

It sounds like you're having multiple issues.

> I don't want Plex, it was a mess.

First off, if you don't like Plex or don't feel comfortable setting it up initially, I totally understand. From the little information you have provided, I'll not suggest that you go back to Plex. I will point out though, that Plex is one of the most mature and easy to use products in its market, so I'm curious as to why you think it's a mess?

> I even used Handbrake to convert the files to Roku 720p MP4/H.264/X.264. AAC Stereo.


(Handbrake uses presets for configuration, I'll assume you are referring to the official device preset from Handbrake, let me know if it's actually from somewhere else.)

• What are the original file(s) formats and settings?
  
• What operating system are you using? Windows? OSX?
  
• Are you able to play your newly encoded files on your computer? (If not, you have a problem with your Handbrake configuration or may lack the proper codecs to decode/encode whatever formats you're using.)
  
• Are you using a USB drive or MicroSD card? What filesystem is it formatted in?
  
• When they "don't work", can the Roku Media Player see the files, but just doesn't play them, or does it not even list them as playable?
  
  > Are the files maybe too big (1gig each)?
  
  
  Absolutely not. At a high quality bitrate, an x264 encoded HD file will be multiple gigabytes for an hour's worth of video. The only filesize issues you could potentially run into would be at the USB filesystem level, specifically if you have a FAT32 formatted USB drive and tried to load a file larger than 2GB in size (which shouldn't/wouldn't copy to the drive in the first place, so it's only theoretically, but not at all realistically possible).
  
  
  > What am I doing wrong?
  
  > I really wish Roku would be easier to watch with downloaded stuff.
  
  
  Taken from Roku's own How It Works page:
  
  > Who is Roku?
  >
  > Roku is the company that pioneered streaming for the TV.
  >
  > We make Roku® streaming players that connect to your TV as well as Roku TVs™ that have the streaming experience built in. Just connect them to the Internet, set up a Roku account, and start streaming. Roku is a more convenient and cost effective way to watch TV.
  
  As you can see, the Roku is specifically designed around being a streaming media receiver for your TV. The idea being that you no longer need to encode videos, throw them on a thumbdrive, walk it over to the TV, etc. You use it to access streaming services or devices. These services do not need to be "in the Cloud" or subscription-based, as there's built-in DNLA support for local network devices as well as support for HTTP Live Streaming and DASH. That said, Roku didn't want to completely alienate people with portable media, so they included the Roku Media Player and a USB support for basic media playback. It is an accessory feature, not a primary one.
  
  If you are looking for something that can play various types of media formats from a USB drive or SD card, then you might want to look at one of the many, many generic/cheap media players on Amazon.
  
  > Do the new Rokus use newer formats better?
  
  I'm not exactly sure what you would characterize as "better", but newer models can/do support other formats that older/lower-end models do not, especially with regarding 4K. Roku has a page listing all features of all models here.

On my personal rig I use the [audiotechnica ATH M50Xs](Audio-Technica ATH-M50x Professional Studio Monitor Headphones https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HVLUR86/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_J9fIybVCJPWFD) and they sound amazing, I also use a [blue yeti mic](Blue Yeti USB Microphone - Blackout Edition https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N1YPXW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_55fIybEAPYH7B) and it comes out clear crisp and clean. To keep my desk from lots of chaos I use a [boom arm](RODE PSA1 Swivel Mount Studio Microphone Boom Arm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001D7UYBO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_l7fIybE7YH913).
( I don't use that boom arm personally, but for someone who wants a good quality boom arm, that's the one.)

Now all this stuff will give you the best experience for a separate mic and headphone combo (well best experience that won't cost thousands of dollars) but if you don't want to use the yeti on a boom arm and just want a headset, get the M50Xs and get an [attachment microphone ](Antlion Audio ModMic 4.0 Attachable Boom Microphone - Omni-Directional with Mute Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T6XUL8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bRagIybFHB6Q2N) instead. This mic has better quality than pretty much any mic built into headsets since the mic tends to be where they cut corners.

As a person who owns dozens of pairs of gaming headphones, I would choose my audiotechnicas with an external mic over them all. I have used Sades GW, Corsair Voids, Turtle Beaches 800Xs, Astro a40s, Logitech g930s, Tritton 720+s and many cheap headsets as well. Get the m50Xs, I would also recommend [sennheiser hd598](Sennheiser HD 598 Special Edition Over-Ear Headphones - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0126HISOO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UkgIybSZ1SBNW) headphones. The truth about all those gaming features (and this is my opinion, as an owner of all the aforementioned headphones) is that high quality sound is better than fake 7.1 surround.

>I don’t know too much about encrypted chats but it seems like you might. If you ever want to chat more I’d love to learn more or ask you some more questions.

​

If we had a good following then I know how to setup a fully encrypted web/mobile/desktop chat client. The answer is run your own server in Mexico, encrypt the disks, and use SSL. For super paranoid you can setup a VPN that runs on the chat server, so it's transparently encrypted end-to-end from your laptop. (I'd probably use Rocketchat, it's just like slack but open source, and Pritunl for a VPN)

​

How we can start a community? I know the FBI has agents who are members of local state militias, just in case these people really start planning to restore freedom. Some states even require an FBI background check to join a militia, which just lets the FBI have a list of people to watch closely (I am not sure to what degree they tap people.)

​

Half the counter-measures developed by government agencies are from agents who "observe and record" what groups are doing. The FBI cellular wiretapping system that acts as a cellular tower (but stores and forwards all traffic) was designed so they could put this up in an area with armed riots, and isolate / locate "ring leaders" and take them down. The FBI has realized militant groups quickly disperse once all the leadership is arrested. The system they designed finds "hot phones" or basically phones that have lots of inbound calls or SMS, that's a sign you've found a leader giving directions to the large group. They block internet, and then review the network traffic to tear the group apart.

​

Of course, that's why you can use two-way VHF/UHF radios and I've actually got a cheap ($30) way to send encrypted communications via text over those two way chinese radios (FRS?GMRS). The way you would handle this in a skirmish would be sending encrypted VHF communications to "middle managers" who then coordinate with small squadrons with relayed instructions. The FBI might shut down middle managers, but the overall command & Conquer strategy could keep going.

​

Squadron leaders will have their radios compensated, and the FBI will bust your racket open, but you would have a "rolling frequency strategy" ... if you had a simple pnumonic to rotate frequencies (like based on a memorized pattern) then that would be hard to bust. These radios operate all over the air frequencies, and public safety frequencies.... so you could literally hide your communications one frequency below the airport tower frequency. It would definitely take a while for the FBI to infiltrate that network. Most of their agents are ex-marines who depend on $1,000,000 purchased turn-key surveillance solutions, they aren't radio engineers or computer scientists. Digital warfare is the future path to freedom. :)

Yeah its pretty sick. I've not tried for the ISS, but have had middling luck with listening to ham radio satellites with a handheld. Your best (and easiest, cheapest) bet would be to purchase a new radio. While the Baofeng type radios are pretty decent for that, if you are into bang for your buck fun, try your hand at rtl-sdr type receivers. I have one I bought for 15 bucks and hacked it up and had a heck lot of fun! With the radio you have, you are best off getting a local ham that is into tech to hook it up to a signal generator and check the alignment and sensitivity of it for you. It's not super hard, but you sorta need a bit of experience.

This is definitely what ham radio is made for.

You didn't talk about the terrain or the area you need to cover, but for local stuff a simple VHF or UHF setups cover that.

If simplex can't cover it often repeaters go unused like in my area, and can be happily used like I do from my basement 10 miles away with a handheld radio. I've heard of people using it over 30 miles eaily with a mobile setup.

If that doesn't cover it I do know a few people that do HF mobile, but I don't have much experience with that. It has some challenges, but is similar to a mobile VHF/UHF setup.

Look for local clubs, and see where repeaters are. Get everyone licensed; general if you want to do HF stuff for fun later, but IMO just go as far as you can as the license is for life as long as you remember to renew it. HT Boafangs are pretty cheap to get started with, plus at least one programing cable to use with Chirp software, then some better antenna can help too.

A mobile setup is similar I'd say to a CB one. You have a unit that you put in your car and then have fun trying to mount the antenna (drilling vs magmount). Universal radio, DX Engineering, and Ham Radio Outlet are common places to buy equipment.

Anything else?

I've got 2 UV5R v2+ and one BFF8HP. Dad just bought two UV5Rs, neighbor is probably going to buy some soon.

They are fantastic systems. Always get the 15" antenna. I have a NMO truck center mount also. I've used the radio while on my boat for marine VHF, I've used it in low power on the forbidden channels for my kids out hiking. I've used it for FM broadcast reception to listen to something interesting. I've even used the flashlight feature way more than I thought I would. They are fantastic systems.

get the more expensive FTDI programming cable and use Chirp. It worked the first try (once you figure out which COM port the thing wants to work on).

Throwing all the repeaters on there was a piece of cake. I'll admit to wanting a better UI and easier programming away from the computer, but for only $70 (UV5R + 15" whip + cable + shipping) it is really hard to beat. $70 gets you on the air, completely clear signal line of sight to repeaters and it provides a little insurance if you are backwoods hunting / boating on a small craft without a "real" marine VHF on a mast ($200+). If you get a few BNC adapters, then you can quickly change between a homemade Yagi and your 15" whip, or a vehicle NMO / similar antenna. The flexibility is pretty amazing.

once you care about longer bands, higher power, then you can start throwing money around on car or base station setups, putting up your own antenna, etc etc. Why not put <$100 into the hobby once you get your license and sit on that "investment" for a few months and see if you are in it for real.

For me, I'm probably going to stay a HAM for a while and with under $250 into the hobby for the next years. I do enough boating & back country hunting that HAM is very handy. I eventually will have dad and may be a brother that get licensed too (as well as many friends). Going on outings with other HAMs makes things much more fun obviously, rather than just sitting on the local repeater NET and checking in with nothing else to do.

Some more photos in this album: http://imgur.com/a/cOpga

I can describe what I did if there's interest. I have since replaced it with another setup. This is in a box for now.

EDIT: Here's some background information for those of you interested.

These are the components used:

• 2002 - 2004 WJ Scosche Wiring Harness Adapter: http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-Revers...0EGD72PEJR5V13
  
• Clarion XC1410: http://www.amazon.com/Clarion-Electr.../dp/B00B43LKV0
  
• Logitech Bluetooth Wireless Speaker Adapter: http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wirel.../dp/B004VM1T5S
  
• Keedox 12v to 5v step down converter: http://www.amazon.com/KEEDOX%C2%AE-C...+12v+converter
  
• Monoprice 1.5FT Premium RCA to RCA cable: http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1-5f...rice+cable+rca
  
• Monoprice 1.5FT Stereo male to RCA male cable: http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1055...0XF8FF2X451CJQ
  
• Custom modified dash trim piece
  
• Nexus 7 2013 tablet (Now with a cracked screen)
  
  I have a factory Inifinity system. It requires, believe it or not, speaker level inputs. I was not interested in redoing the amplifier and speakers at the time. So I needed a way to get a signal from the tablet to the factory amplifier. After reading lots of other accounts, I chose the Logitech Wireless speaker adapter based off the remarks regarding it's sound quality. It also has both an RCA and a 3.5MM out and they can be used simultaneously. It needed to be powered via 5v so I bought the step down converter. A better approach would have been to use a power supply designed for car stereo installations. It would have helped reduce noise and some other issues. From there, the signal needed to be amplified to speaker level inputs. I originally tested a PAC-OEM1 with an output voltage of around 7v. It was barely audible at full blast. I moved onto the Clarion XC1410. It gets LOUD. No doubt about it. I had to set a Tasker profile to automatically reduce volume to a certain level anytime the tablet connected to the bluetooth receiver. With the loud came some noise though. I spent quite a while chasing an alternator whine. Turns out that a short, local ground and a large, direct connection to the battery would substantially reduce noise. ALSO, 3.5MM jacks are connected in some to a ground within the device. This introduced a ground loop. Took me a while to realize that when the 3.5MM jack was plugged in, noise was increased. I removed it and used a splitter from the RCA cables. This had the added benefit of reducing the volume and eliminating the noise. Everything plugs into a aftermarket - factory harness that I wired myself (2002 - 2004 compatible). The real feat was building the tablet cradle. I purchased a $10 case from Amazon and hacked it up. I also scored the black bezel from a junkyard Jeep. The bezel was cut using a dremel until the case sat perfectly. I attached initially using super glue. Then I filled the gaps and reinforced it with a black silicone from GE. LOTS of it. It was stout. I finally added the frame you see in the pictures. The metal frame was really not required but I was banking on longevity. It had the added benefit of allowing me to mount magnets (To hold smaller devices in place like a phone). I ran a 90* charging cable through the grommet on the far right. The tablet case had some material removed from the lip so I could more easily insert and remove it while mounted.
  
  I posed an incomplete writeup on JeepForum: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f20/wj-tablet-bluetooth-audio-amp-speaker-installation-questions-1941961/
  
  After I got the noises ironed out, I rocked it for a while and really enjoyed it. A bluetooth OBDII reader fed it diagnostic information. Lux did great for brightness control. Tasker for profiles. Then I accidentally cracked the N7 screen and the party was over. It just so happened that someone was selling an AppRadio setup the next day so I scooped it up and am running that with an MK809iii now. This old setup is being sold on Ebay and Jeepforum if anyone is so inclined.

It's the Baofengs that I too started with. Got mine for around $30 on amazon. It's been a dependable radio and has stood the test of time. Great first radio, would recommend. I still use it from time to time while skiing and such when I don't want to put my Kenwood at risk. It still works great and have not had a problem yet.

But let me warn you before you start, you are about to go down a rabbit hole of Ham equipment. Now you get this, and you be happy with it, but next you'll be looking for a whip antenna to go with it. Soon you'll find yourself lusting for an even nicer higher quality handheld. Then a mobile radio for that extra power and reliable signal into the repeater. And with your General will come the HF radios, and with the HF radios you need an HF antenna, and so on and so fourth.

It happens to everyone, but I and many others have found it well worth it.

Good luck on your test. You've got a good community here to help you along the way.


Edit:
This is the radio I chose:
https://www.amazon.com/Baofeng-UV-5R-Plus-Range-Radio/dp/B07CMZ2QCF/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=XX0KH7YLS08A&keywords=baofeng+uv-5r+v2%2B&qid=1557289737&s=gateway&sprefix=baofeng+uv-5r+v2&sr=8-3

This one also come highly recommended:
https://www.amazon.com/BaoFeng-BF-F8HP-Two-Way-136-174Mhz-400-520Mhz/dp/B00MAULSOK/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmrnull_2_sspa?keywords=b-tech+bf-f8hp&qid=1557289868&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmrnull-spons&psc=1

This is probably not what you were looking for, but I would suggest that you just choose the 2 that you think are the most important for you.

If you do not have any other microphone or any half-decent headphone then I would suggest to invest in those now. Then you can just save up money to later buy a nice DAC. (I have used DAC's in the 70-80 dollar range and I would highly recommend to just wait and get much better DAC in the 100-150 range)

My suggestion here would be to get a pair of m50x headphones and a antlion modmic 4 they are both great products that I have used in the past. The modmic is a high quality microphone that is small so you don't need to dedicate any desk space to it. The m50x are one of the best budget headsets, with a very balanced audio signature. They are also easily portable so you can take them wherever you want.

Antlion Modmic:https://www.amazon.com/Antlion-Audio-ModMic-Attachable-Microphone/dp/B00T6XUL8S

m50x (the cheapest one I could find rn): https://www.groupon.com/deals/gg-professional-studio-monitor-headphones

The m50x used to always drop to around 100 dollars or 120-130 with some random dac/amp, so maybe if you wait you can get a deal on it. Just monitor the website Slickdeals and eventually it (or maybe even something better) will be in your price range.

When you're looking into headphones, you should at least determine what you personally like audio wise and what are you going to use the headphones for. Do you like a lot of bass or do you prefer clearer audio? Also will you be using them to play only stereo content or would you be utilising a wide soundstage?

If your definition of a "PCMR headset" is something like a comfortable fit with adjustable leds that screams gaming, I'd recommend Steelseries siberia 650 for example.

HOWEVER, the quality of the "gaming" headsets is pretty much shit compared to what you can get with the same money outside of the gaming franchises. Especially the built in mics in gaming headsets have pretty terrible quality in all of the models on the market compared to proper microphones.

Personally I don't care about the leds and stuff and enjoy good quality audio, so I went with quality AKG studio headphones I already owned and bought an Antlion modmic 4.0 to go with them. I've been very pleased with this setup and the best part is, you can choose the quality headphones that suit you best and slap that quality mic onto any model or brand.

If I didn't already have my AKG 272HD's and had to buy the entire setup, I would probably have gone with the modmic + Sennheiser HD 558. That setup has a pretty amazing price to quality ratio and most of all it's comfortable and sounds great. To go even further the Sennheiser HD 598's are basically the same headphones but with a better soundstage and less bass. Just my 2 cents.

TL;DR: Would seriously recommend to make your own quality headset out of a modmic and some good quality studio headphones for the price of a lower quality "gaming" headset.

I'm in a similar situation with my car - no aux jack - and plan to keep this car till it turns to dust around me. So I've become quite familiar with a few FM transmitters. But firstly, it's worth mentioning that all FM Transmitters are garbage compared to direct input audio, at least in my experience.

But the best FM transmitter I've had thus far is this guy: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018E0I01I

It's bluetooth so you don't have to deal with any cables that will undoubtedly twist and loosen and break. It's also a lot cheaper than the FM Transmitters you'd find stores like Best Buy (I've seen them for upwards of $50(!) in that place).

Some other advice... If you stick to mainly listening to music/radio/whatever through your phone and rarely use the actual radio, you will get a better, clearer signal for your FM Transmitter if you remove your car's antenna. A few years back my car's antenna got ripped off during a snow storm and it was the best happy accident I could have imagined. Because of that it's very easy to find a clear radio station to play the FM Transmitter through.

Good luck!

A lot of people start with one of the cheap Chinese radios like the Baofeng UV-5R. Get the programming cable and you can program in your local repeaters using CHIRP. Repeaters are base stations run by the local ham clubs, installed on top of mountains and tall buildings, which re-transmit your signal so it covers a much wider area. Disaster response will center around one or more repeaters, hopefully ones that have backup power. Without a repeater, the range of these handhelds is limited to a few miles (depending on terrain).

It's hard to say whether you'll need an external antenna at your apartment. If you have good line-of-sight to the repeater(s) you want to use, then the handheld and its stock "rubber ducky" antenna might be sufficient. If there are buildings or hills in the way then you might need a better antenna to compensate. There are many options such as a longer whip antenna for the handheld, a roll-up J-pole, or a yagi. None of those would require permanent installation. Antennas are a vast subject and it's hard to know what's best without experimenting.

Some more links:

Silicon Valley Emergency Communications System

Santa Clara ARES/RACES

ARRL guide for beginners

New ham radio operator

This book has everything you need to know to pass the Technician exam. hamexam.org has free flash cards and practice exams.

KB6NU has some No-Nonsense Study Guides including a free PDF for Technician class.

Also check out /r/amateurradio. Beginner questions are welcome. If IRC is your thing, they have a channel at irc.geekshed.net #redditnet. Freenode's ##hamradio is also good.

There are a ton of other resources out there. Hams seem to like making YouTube videos in particular. Ham radio is a huge subject; explore and see what parts you find interesting. Good luck and have fun!

Mod mics? You mean something like this? Those aren't going to be amazing, but honestly I've known people who record their show using their laptop's internal microphone and it sounded okay. It's more important to use what you have and produce something rather than sit on your hands and produce nothing.

That board you linked claims to have 8 inputs, but it actually has 4 stereo channels, two of which are mic-level and two are line-level. If you have more than 2 people, that's probably not a great option. I also wouldn't recommend that particular mixer because it has no USB-out. It's also going to be outputting stereo, which is to say two audio channels. You can record in stereo, but it will give you less control when editing. If you want to get a board like that, I'd recommend this one from Behringer. It's substantially the same, but has USB.

Incidentally, how many people are you going to have on your show? If it's more than two, what I'd actually recommend is something more like this 4-channel audio interface. To use those mod mics you'll need some adaptors for the 1/4" microphone plugs. But it will let you record up to 4 individual audio channels, and if you decide to upgrade to better microphones in the future you'll be able to use the same device.

You might be able to find it for less than $100, but that's the first one I came up with.

If you have more than 4 people, I think you'll have a hard time finding an effective solution for less than $100. But again, I think the quality of your show is more about the content than the fidelity of the audio.

Welcome to the sub! Congrats on passing your Tech.

First up pick up an RTLSDR, these are great little receivers that will cover 30MHz-1700MHz which covers a tremendous swathe of spectrum. Definitely check out the different types of antennas you can make over on Antenna-Theory, the RTL-SDR blog and /r/rtlsdr

Then if you want to transmit on the post popular amateur bands for techs (which are local to your area) pick up a VHF/UHF Baofeng radio like a UV-B5, UV-82 or UV-5R. Not a whole lot of difference between any of them; I think the UV-B5 is the better one, since it has a better antenna and a rotary encoder. But it's very much up to you as to what you get (style > substance after all :) ).

Now from there its a question of what where you are. City? Rural? Nearby airport? Ports or ocean?

Edit: I should start linking to the wiki more often: Baofeng radios and Your First Radio are good places to start.

I was looking for this response! We still do, because, what else would I call it? We do use HT an handheld, and some old fucks still say “handie talkie”.

Also if anyone is interested getting a ham radio license and callsign is super easy, the hardest part is that you actually have to go somewhere to take a test, but studying for it is a matter of playing around with the flash cards on hamstudy.org and reading up on some basics on how radio works.

Getting a radio is easy, Amazon has the Baofeng UV5R dirt cheap radio, the greatest innovation in ham radio in the past few years. Lets you listen and talk locally, and isn’t too hard to program from watching a few YouTube videos and guides. Bunch of options for getting better antennas too that will let you get some better range and do some fun things with satellites.

Hit up /r/AmateurRadio and see what you can do with ham radio!

The echo dot was my first product in the smart home world and it's still my only hub. I love it! I wasn't using it to it's full potential at first, only using it to play music while I was home but now it controls my smart tv, some lights, and my security camera.

It SUCKS as a speaker. In fact I never play music directly through it. It's paired to an awesome bluetooth speaker I have. It's not made as a speaker so don't fool yourself with that. But if you want to get into smart home products this is the perfect way to start.

It's kind of like getting a 4k tv. You get the tv first before you pay for 4k games, cable, etc. Sure you're not using it to it's fullest potential but it has limitless room to grow! If you do it the other way around you're wasting money with no incentive to ever fully upgrade.

TLDR; Don't get it to use as a speaker. That's not what it's made for and it shows. If you want a speaker get this .
However if you want to get into smart home things this is a perfect opportunity.

Ok, it's been fun watching people post ridiculous product suggestions for such a simple request, but it's time to actually answer the question. Go buy a pair of something like this:

• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IV1H1ME
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EHSX28M
  
  Then you can use whatever outdoor/waterproof powered speaker you want. Alternately, just get one transmitter and use a waterproof speaker (or two) that has bluetooth built in.
  
  There are hundreds of little dongles like this. I just happen to like the fact that this one can be switched between being a transmitter or a receiver. That gives me a lot of confidence that the devices will work well together. Also, it's capable of transmitting to two different receivers at one time, so you'll be ready when you decide that you also just gotta have audio somewhere else outside.
  
  If this product suggestion gives anyone the urge to indulge in verbal diarrhea regarding bluetooth audio quality, let me proactively advance the discussion by saying, "STFU". Bluetooth audio quality is an order of magnitude better than what's needed for normal outdoor speakers much less speakers that are going to be competing with the noise of a hot tub.

I am looking for headphones I can use for gaming, watching TV, movies, video editing. Really everything. Budget $100-$150. I was looking at the Audio Technica ATH-M50x, but they are closed. I haven't really ever used closed headphones before. I have worn Bose Quiet Comforts before, and besides the fact they are not super comfortable, I don't know if it was them being closed, or the noise canceling, but they gave me headaches. I work, game, ect in a pretty quit room. I have fans running, and a computer next to me that can get loud too though, but generally it isn't too bad. I currently wear very old Astro A40 That are not particularly good, but they were given to me from a friend and I have never thought to upgrade. If anyone has recommendations for me that are like the A40s, just maybe in better quality, or better sound, that would be great. It dosen't have to be a gaming headset or anything like that, If I ever need a microphone I can use a Mod Mic 4.0.

Edit: If someone could clarify if the difference between closed and open is what I had with the Bose, or if that was the noise canceling...

I own both styles in different cars. I use them to listen to Audiobooks rather than music, so keep that in mind when I talk about sound quality. Bluetooth adapters are great because you can pause and skip from the adapter, and keep your phone in your pocket. I don't like the idea of my phone just sitting loose in the car. In the event of an accident, after which, you'll really need that phone, I don't want it to have gone flying somewhere.

In my car that has an aux port, I have an MPOW Streambot. It's very compact and has pretty good sound quality... no static or muddiness. Battery life is 7-8 hours before you have to recharge it through its micro-usb port. Build quality is a little suspect, but hey, it cost $15 and it hasn't broken yet. I can't complain too much.

In my car that doesn't have an aux port, I have a Nulaxy FM Transmitter. As FM transmitters go, it is pretty great. There is only one frequency here in Dallas I can tune to and not get static, but that's all I need. You can use Radio Locator to find empty frequencies in your area. I feel like the sound quality is just a touch muddy sometimes, but it is far better than any other FM transmitter I've used.

A bluetooth head unit is the ideal solution, but at much higher cost and complexity.

Well hang on though. Because depending on what and how you're filming, a lav mic may be better for you. Best thing you can do for audio quality is get the mic as close as possible. Since you've indicated you're willing to combine in post (which honestly is way less work than some people make it out to be) something like this and this might work better for you. To be clear, I'm not saying the linked Shure is bad. It's not. If you're planning on putting the phone on a tripod and videoing yourself from like 5-10 feet away, go with the lav. If you're videoing at arms length holding the iPhone, go with something like the Shure. Getting the mic close is the single best thing you can do.

Hey there. Sorry for the delay since I was traveling. I tried the earbuds out at Sony Store Ginza during the Headphone Park event and was impressed. They didn't seem to mask as much noise as my QC35, BUT I was also using the silicon eartips. I didn't have a chance to try to foam.

I was impressed by how light they were and that they didn't fall out when I shook my head -- Apple wireless AirPods and wired EarPods don't fit my ears well and always fall out. I'd imagine they're more comfortable in lie-flat business to sleep with than the QC35.

I've also resigned to lack of aptX and LDAC. I think AAC and SBC will be fine since it probably means better range, improved connectivity, and longer battery life. FWIW, QC35 also lacks aptX and LDAC, and I only listen to podcasts with Google Podcasts and Overcast by Marco Armeny, listen to music with Google Play Music / YouTube Music, and watch video streaming like YouTube TV, YouTube Premium, Netflix, HBO NOW, etc. The devices I use are Apple iPad Pro 10.5, Google Pixel 3a XL and OnePlus 7 Pro.

Yes, I pre-ordered on Amazon for $185 (lower cost than Sony Ginza Duty Free 25880¥ or $240) with a few promotions I had ($5 Amazon gift card credit, $10 Whole Foods credit and a discount with use of 1 American Express Membership Reward point). Sony WF-1000XM3 Industry Leading Noise Canceling Truly Wireless Earbuds, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T81554H/

I also snagged a Bluetooth transceiver during Prime Day that seemed to have numerous decent reviews. It'll come in handy for IFE. $23.11 was the lightning deal. TaoTronics Bluetooth 5.0 Transmitter and Receiver, 2-in-1 Wireless 3.5mm Adapter (aptX Low Latency, 2 Devices Simultaneously, For TV/Home Sound System) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EHSX28M/

Just in case, I also bought some foam eartips during Prime Day that seemed to be a good value. I hope they fit. $5.59 was the lightning deal. 12Pcs Replacement Eartips- RIYO Premium Memory Foam Earphone Earbuds Tips Noise Reducing Earbud Tips for 5mm-7mm in-Ear Headphones Nozzle (Large, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NJQ6J3/

QUESTION FOR YOU: Is QC20 noise canceling better than QC35? I've always understood that it was, but the QC35 seems to be more popular since it's wireless.

I've been playing with 2m antennas for my UV5-R so I'll list some options I've played with starting from cheapest on up.

First get the antenna outside and as high as you can. Seems like a no brainer but it really increases your range. More so than a better antenna.

Add a counterpoise (aka tiger tail, rat tail, etc). Really just a piece of wire connected to the ground of your existing rubber duck and will cost almost nothing. If you search you'll probably find mixed reviews. I've noticed a marginal increase in range and reception.

Nagoya NA-771 is an inexpensive ($17) whip that is definitely better than the stock antenna you're using. No guarantees but it may have the extra gain you need to hit that repeater.

N9TAX roll up slim jim is portable antenna that you can throw in a back pack and deploy anywhere you can hang it - in your bedroom, from a balcony, etc. I've taken fishing line and a weight thrown them over a tree branch and hoisted it 10 feet in the air. Way better than your rubber duck and only $30 delivered with 16ft of feedline.

Building your own j pole will probably run you more than any of the previous options unless you have all the tools (torch, solder) and have scrap copper pipe laying around. That being said you might be able to make the slim jim yourself for a bit less (but not much). Building your own is lots of fun and you can learn a lot. It isnt always cheaper though. Try(http://www.hamuniverse.com/ke4nu450slimjim.html)[this] if it you're interested.

^^What he said. I don't have a Baofeng, but I've read up on them.

You need the programming cable if you want to name your saved channels.

Also, get the $20 programming cable, not the $9 one, unless you're really good at device driver debugging. The cheapo cables have knockoff chips in them that are not supported by the official drivers. It's a headache.

THIS should be the legit cable. SHOULD be.

Happy hamming!

EDIT: Second also on using CHIRP. The Baofengs are well supported by that software, and it's cross-platform, unlike the manufacturer's software.

I only wish the CHIRP guys would choose to support the TYT U/V HTs sometime this decade. :'(

I just use an Anker speaker. A friend recommended it, and it's been a great choice.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016XTADG2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_b0QrybS96GJR8

The battery lasts for a loooooong time. It is supposed to last for up to 24 hours on a full charge.

The sound is pretty good. I live in an apartment, so I don't need anything huge, and this one is more than enough for me to listen to in the living room and kitchen.

I have it connected to the WiiU with the USB cable, so it charges whenever I play, and I haven't had to touch it in weeks now.
Overall, I've been very happy with it, and would definitely recommend it.

But like mentioned, as far as i know, it needs to be wired to have more than one speaker at a time connected.

I got kicked out of /r/CableManagement even tho some people liked it there. Original Post

Even though I buy and build PC's for a living, I don't have a fancy water cooled setup at home. But this is my desk, it gets the job done. I recently cleaned up all the cables so thought some people would enjoy that. I could have hid the power cable but I don't like tying those up.

https://imgur.com/a/IXAG72q

Ready for the cool part? This is an Ikea desk, firs thing I did was threw out all the hardware and used velcro to fasten the legs to the desk. Zero issues for 6+ months. The parts from Ikea I used were:

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/50106773/ ($100) https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/90252908/ ($119)

I used zip ties + velcro ties to fasten the cables and a small speaker under the desk.

The monitor arm I use is good old Vivo from Amazon for $29..I've been using these for probably 4-5 years, and have purchased about a dozen of them.

https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Monitor-Adjustable-Screens-STAND-V002/dp/B009S750LA

This is the speaker that is zipped under the desk:

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-SoundCore-Bluetooth-Dual-Driver-Distortion/dp/B016XTADG2 ($29)

The PC is self-built. Its a generic Mini ATX case, 6th gen i7, 16GB of Corsair 2400, a 128 Patriot SSD and a 2TB HDD, it also has an EVGA 1070 video card which is really overkill for what I do.

Last cool part - the case is equipped with a 5.25" "drawer" in place of DVD drive. Perfect for spare USB drives, a few pens, etc to keep the desk clean.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AVSSKOE/ ($10)

I need help choosing my first radio. I want to get it just after my exam in late December (after Christmas) so that I can order it right after I get my license (hopefully!). I've narrowed it down to 4 radios. I'm on a bit of a budget, so that's why I'm going really cheap.

1. [Baofeng UV-5RA] (http://www.amazon.com/Baofeng-UV5RA-136-174-Dual-Band-Transceiver/dp/B009MAKWC0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408887006&sr=8-)
   
   
2. [BaoFeng UV-5RE] (http://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-Improved-Stronger-Enhanced-Features/dp/B00C83AU9S/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1408887006&sr=8-5&keywords=ham+radio)
   
   
3. [Baofeng UV5R] (http://www.amazon.com/Baofeng-UV5R-136-174-400-480-Dual-Band/dp/B007H4VT7A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1408887006&sr=8-3&keywords=ham+radio)
   
   
4. [BaoFeng UV-5RB] (http://www.amazon.com/Baofeng-UV5RA-136-174-Dual-Band-Transceiver/dp/B009MAKWC0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408887006&sr=8-1&keywords=ham+radio)
   
   This list is in no particular order but I would prefer to get the UV-RE because I want the emergancy alerts and the flashlight (I'm not sure if any of the other ones have those).
   
   I have also found what seems to be a [good, cheap antenna] (http://www.amazon.com/NAGOYA-NA-771-Antenna-BAOFENG-KG-UVD1P/dp/B00BY3XN7E), an NA-771, but I would like to know if there are any better, cheaper ones out there that connect to the radios I stated above.
   
   My price range for everything is about $45, but I will go to $55 if I have to. I would also be open to any better radios out there that are within my price range. Thanks in advance for your help!
   
   Tl;dr - I need a $45 radio and I need you guys to help me decide on one, or lean me towards another one.

This is a pretty good start. I've put together a couple of notes.

• The duct tape you listed is a rip off. What I did for my bug out bag was buy a roll of duct tape, then wrap it neatly around a pencil.
  
  
• Instead of a SOG fixed blade knife, you might consider spending $20-$30 more and getting a ka-bar. I've personally had bad experiences with SOG and love the ka-bars I have. If you go this route, be sure to find a true ka-bar... there are a bunch of fakes out there.
  
  
• For radios, I would get something more versatile. The downside to the one you listed is they don't support many bands. Also, I may be wrong, but I'm very suspicious of the 35 mile range that is listed. The BaoFeng UV-5R is a hidden gem that does everything the motorola you've listed does and a whole lot more. the only downside is you need a HAM license to operate one legally (assuming you are in the US) https://www.amazon.com/BaoFeng-UV-5R-Dual-Radio-Black/dp/B007H4VT7A
  
  
• The carabiners you've listed don't appear to be CE or UIAA certified for climbing. Here is a link to a set I recently bough that are both CE and UIAA rated and are more than strong enough for climbing with equipment. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6DD42Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc
  
  
• 550 paracord would do the same job as the speciality shoe laces you've listed for cheaper.
  
  
• You can make your own snare kits, fishing kits, and first aid kits for much, much cheaper that what is in your list.
  
  
• I personally would skip the bit kit unless you have a very specific need.
  
  
• The "Maxpedition Single Sheath" is very expensive for what it is. You can find something equivalent for about 1/4 the price.
  
  
• The bag you've listed may not be big enough for all of your gear. This is difficult to gauge, but your choice of bag is important.
  
  All that being said, I think you've done a good job of planning and selecting products that will be useful. I've been waiting on my wife to put together a sewing kit, but your post has spurred me to buy one instead (I don't think she's ever going to get around to it)....(this is the one I ended up buying: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015L46N96/ref=pd_luc_rh_sbs_02_01_t_img_lh?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1).
  
  Thanks and best of luck with your prepping!

If it were me, I'd go for something really versatile/nice like the ES100: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078H4YD2L

But that might be overkill... still, it's a very nice little device with some amazing audio capability due to its built in DAC and great software. Lots of folks really like this device and for good reason.

A more budget friendly receiver (pretty plain and more utilitarian) would be something like: https://www.amazon.com/TaoTronics-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Simultaneously/dp/B01EHSX28M

I'm a bit late to the party but OP if you want something similar to a walkie talkie style communication you might want to check out HAM radio. Me and a few friends have these BaoFeng radios (link below). Pretty cheap $32 and very far range since it's using repeatedr stations (which are towers that you can use to communicate farther). Depending on certain types of setup you can reach people from different countries. You would need to get a HAM license but it's very easy to get.
Plus no monthly subscription fee :]

If your interested maybe check out r/hamradio or r/amateurradio

Link to BaoFeng radios.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007H4VT7A/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1527700526&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=baofeng&dpPl=1&dpID=41xV3DDhxBL&ref=plSrch

that's a pretty legit list right there. I have a trunk full of gear, probably worth almost as much as my car. I do a lot of contract work, so my list is pretty much the same just slightly beefed up.

• I have a basic tech kit from Amazon
  
• I have a buttset Sometimes reffered to as a linemans set.
  
• About 10 of these Floating around my car/trunk/tool bags and person. because i like to lose things lol
  
• A Basic cable tester
  
• This Cable mapper
  
• Coax crimper (For tv, and bnc)
  
• Crimp Kit
  
• I buy these Like candy, they're perfect for ISO's for giving to customers with instructions and/or iso's just perfect in general for a lot of things.
  
• Stinger Flash light Serves double duty as a i'm a volunteer first and second responder
  
• Cable stripper
  
  Replenishables
  
  
• I Keep at least 50 of these on hand
  
• rg59 tips (CCTV BNC Tips)
  
• RG6 tips (Cable TV)
  
• RJ45 tips (A mason jar filled with about 60-100)
  
• at minimum of box of cat5 Sometimes up to three boxes. i will have a job soon that will require six of them lol.
  
• Patch Cables 3f and 5ft usually at minimum 10 of each
  
• zip ties (Usually three containers of 500 of assorted sizes)
  
• White 2 4 and 6 port keystone faceplates
  
• White keystone blanks
  
• low voltage mounting brackets
  
• white 1 and 2 port surface mount boxes
  
• some hdmi cables (Usually just 4 or 5 of these)
  
• electrical tape (5 50' rolls of different color) for many things
  
• Pull string
  
• dikes (Not really but they dissappear so fast they feel like it) like These
  
• I actually keep two label makers
  
• Rolls of 8 inch velcro ties
  
  contractor things
  
  
• Step bits
  
• Paddle bits
  
• Hole Saw Kit
  
• Masonry bits
  
• Caulk gun
  
• caulk
  
• grommets
  
• Ladder
  
• First aid kit
  
• 150' Fish tape
  
• An 18V Cordless DeWalt Hammer Drill
  
• Regular drill bits
  
  
  
• I use these to organize my laptop bag (win surface pro with usb to rj45 adapter, usb to db9 adapter, console cable, lan cable, wifi hotspot, anker battery pack, 500gb usb hard drive etc)
  
• I use these bags to organize everything
  
  and a myriad of other small parts pertaining to surveillance system installs, and screw bits for my drill, and i even have secured walkies for when i have multiple employees on site. plus i have to admit bluetooth headsets for when i have to deal with helpdesks or tech support while i'm on site... did i mention i do a lottttt of contract work. i'm all over the place. every now and then i run into things that this kit can't handle but for the most part i come away with a rather professional look.
  
  sorry for formatting, i've seen plenty of these posts this is the first time i took time to actually look up evrything i've purchased.
  
  Edit: Some formatting. added velcro :P

Here's how I started:

Boafeng radio

Better antenna

Local repeaters, you're gonna have to search your area.

Find your local club and get involved. Find an Elmer. Join the local nets (radio jargon for organized, over-the-airwave, get together)

Once yo've done that, assuming you have your tech license, you want to upgrade to the General. Then find a decent HF rig, a wire antenna, some trees to hang it in, and party on. Obviously the more you spend the better you'll be but you don't have to break the bank. I got a Yaesu 857d which does all bands, plus the accompanying tuner, a G5RV antenna and some feed line for about $1100 and I can do everything my club's shack can do. I've worked Antarctica and South Africa on that gear plus some 60+ other countries so I'm pleased.

The misconception is that you need a 1000' tower to get out but really a simple wire antenna can do you wonders. Though if you gotta choose where to spend the money go for better antennas as they can really make the difference.

Best money spent though will likely be the club membership. You'll meet people, get good deals on stuff people are selling, advice, even free stuff periodically.

Probably not the answer you were looking for, but RF is probably the easiest and most cost effective way.
See my 987S: http://imgur.com/BR3OMCY


This is the unit I purchased. It works well enough, the most important thing is to find a good clean frequency for it to operate. If you plug it into the center console port, it will auto-off/on with the car, as well. I have a desire to figure out how to intercept the input into the head unit from the 6-disc changer and split it over, but I know the Bose is much more difficult due to the optical platform and would require changing out almost or all of the audio system.

• You aren't going to be able to buy all of this gear with $2000-3000.
  
  
• Watch this video. This is the mother of all travel videos.
  
  • This video was shot with a Lumix GH3, a 12-35 f/2.8, a cheap telephoto zoom (14-140 I think?) and a Nocticron 42.5mm. No Ronin, no drone, no IBIS, etc.
    
    
• A Ronin is a hassle to set up, really cumbersome, and not suitable for the run and gun type of style that Kolder and Alveraz make. The closest thing that I can think of which would be run and gun-ish (but you still don't need) is the Zhiyun Crane which goes for around $600.
  
  
• Personally: I see that you have $3000 available, so my first inclination is to say get the GH5 with a 12-35 f/2.8 I (the $600 version). The dual-IS doesn't make a huge difference, the GH5's IBIS is good enough. Then buy a nice Tiffen variable ND filter, step-up ring, maybe one of those Tascam audio recorders for nat sound, and save up for the 35-100 f/2.8.
  
  Broken down:
  
  
• GH5 - $1997.99
  
  
• Lumix 12-35 f/2.8 I - $699
  
  
• Tiffen ND filter - $129.99
  
  
• Step up ring - $9.95
  
  
• Tascam portable audio recorder - $99
  
  
• Total: $2935.93
  
  I will end on this note: You like these videos because they are well shot, well composed, and well edited. I could hand you the best camera system in the world and you're going to make a shitty video if you don't know how to use it. Whereas I could hand a great cinematographer a crappy camera and he'd make something awesome. It's more about what you shoot than what you shoot with. With that in mind, the GH5 is fucking awesome (I just got mine) and it's a great tool to learn on and grow with.

> my issue is how far apart the keys are, total size, keysize and shape, weight, lack of dedicated macro keys

You can find most of these online. On the weight: This is a stretch and would just add to the budget, but there are desk mats for that which you can get pretty cheap. If not: Rubberized feet all the way! Also that sounds like you are abusing your keyboard, maybe you dont want blues but some heavier switches instead? When you buy a new mech, make sure to ask over at /r/mechanicalkeyboards! We love helping.
About macro keys: AutoHotKey! ;) I pretty much abuse Ctrl+F-Keys for that.
>Hadn't heard of the scimitar, but it seems one of the main complaints is that if your thumb is big, it will drag while pressing the buttons, naga has this too, but it seems to be worse on the scimitar, the naga is still returnable, so i might go try the scimitar in store and see if i like it more.

I havent tried it and I'm not even the typical PCMR Corsair fanboy (I'm actually pretty critical on their products), but the Scimitar looks effin' sweet! I wouldn't have thought that it has such problems as it is made to be used by pretty much every person.
>I looked into standalone mics and headsets, but the entry price seems about 195-260 total which is a lot more expensive than the 149 i payed.

Well, uhhhh...
I wanna add that Ive now had 3 pairs of headphones in that price range and the SHP9500 stood out BY FAR. They had such a clear sound, it was amazing.

There will be an absolute ton of cheap headphones, earbuds and Bluetooth speakers. Like /u/keanex said, check out what you want beforehand, figure out what's actually a good deal on them, and then only look for the ones you've previously identified as good quality and a good sale.

Anker and TaoTronics are two pretty solid brands that are very likely to participate in Prime Day. Last year I got the Anker Soundcore for $27.99 which was an all-time low for it at the time. I asked Anker on Twitter if the new version, the Anker Soundcore 2 would be getting a Prime Day deal and they hinted that it will. Previous best price for that was around $33 I think. I LOVE my Soundcore, so am watching for the Soundcore 2 (which is waterproof) for my bathroom this year.

Thanks for your feedback! Here's another one I was looking at that is a bit pricier but claims to have a greater wattage output:

https://www.amazon.com/BaoFeng-UV-82HP-High-Power-Radio/dp/B00Z52HP10/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

I did some searching on Amazon for a 50W mobile radio, but there aren't many options. Any model in particular you recommend for this use case? Ideally something I could pick up from a Best Buy or order from Amazon one-day shipping.

I don't plan to use these regularly until licensed, but want something in case of an emergency this weekend during the hurricane.

Thank you so much!


Edit: another one I was eyeballing - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MAULSOK/ref=emc_b_5_t#customerReviews

Hey dude.

Late post, I know, but I've been doing some research on the best FM transmitters (had the Soundfly by Satechi, 3 actually, first one was great and the second two had quality issues. Have had at least 4 or 5 other ones before it back in 08, but since I found that haven't looked back).

The one that seems pretty legit is this one. It's got insane amounts of reviews and most of them good.

http://www.amazon.com/GOgroove-FlexSMART-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Hands-Free/dp/B003PPGOC0/ref=pd_sim_e_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0EW15K19BWQ23TCH09BQ

Hopefully this kind of helps.

Hi there. I am fairly new to this sub, but I hang out in /r/Android often. You currently have a few options for what you are trying to do.

The first option is bluetooth. If your apartment isn't too big, one bluetooth A2DP received should cover just about the whole area. I currently use one of these.

However the bluetooth audio protocol (A2DP) leaves much to be desired. For one, the range is limited, plus most say the sound quality is degraded (I don't notice it, but I am far from an audiophile). This is the reason that the AirPlay protocol is so popular, and it is theoretically possible to broadcast to AirPlay w/ an Android phone. Enter AirAudio. This app claims to take any system audio and broadcast it to the AirPlay protocol. It is a relatively new app, and I have never personally used it, but it is worth a shot if you have an AirPlay receiver lying around (or another Android phone that can be used as an AirPlay via AirBubble.

The next option is a device that Google just released. Chromecast. Chromecast is a HDMI dongle (powered via USB) that will receive audio/video feeds directly over wifi. You use a phone to tell it what to play (via Google Music, Netflix, etc), and it grabs the feed directly from the source, rather than rerouting through your Android device. Currently only those two sources are supported, but many others have promised support. This is a great option for the price tag, the only issue is that it is HDMI-out. My received doesn't have an HDMI input, so I would have to find a way to extract the audio from the HDMI a/v signal in order to play via my stereo.

This problem brings me to my last suggestion, which is a third party offering called Cheapcast. This offering will take any old Android device and turn it into a Chromecast. The advantage of this is that you can use the device's headphone jack for audio instead of having to try to get it out of the HDMI.

Currently the Chromecast SDK has not been officially released, therefore the last two offerings are not available as of yet. Google should be making things official very soon and it will be interesting to see what else becomes available.

I'm going to go right ahead and agree with this guy, you can go the Bluetooth route.

BAM!

GOgroove FlexSMART X2 Wireless In-Car Bluetooth FM Transmitter with... http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003PPGOC0/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_YRB5tb0DT11TC

Had this for a few years and it works perfectly. It's worth if you really want to play your favorite songs in the car for sure. It also has the added bonus of hands free calls, but it's mediocre at best it works but it could be better.

• Potato
  
• Fancy Potato
  
• DMR Potato. $110, but close enough.
  
• Nice Mobile Antenna + mount
  
• Cheapie, but still good mobile antenna
  
• RTL-SDR
  
• Upconverter for your new RTL-SDR
  
• A snazzy enclosure for your new upconverter for your new RTL-SDR
  
• A bunch of RG8X coax
  
• Or about half as much RG-213
  
• A chest harness if you do event volunteer work or just like to play whacker.
  
• A nice desk stand to organize all your HT's
  
• Dry or wet dummy loads
  
• Raspberry Pi starter kit
  
• A Ham Radio Deluxe license
  
• A bitchin' yagi antenna
  
• Hamsticks and dipoles and verticals, oh my!
  
• High Sierra JAWS mount. Ridiculously useful.
  
• Antenna tuner or a nicer one for a tad over.
  
• Antenna analyzer
  
• Cheap straight key or a nice paddle for a bit over budget.
  
• Coax switch
  
• Powerpole all the things!
  
• Rigrunner for all the stuff you just powerpoled.
  
• Scanner
  
• Headset
  
• Analog or a digital SWR/watt meter
  
• A Pelican case to start working on your go box.
  
• A sweet atomic wall clock for the shack.
  
  That's all I can think of for the moment. I may add to the list as I think of more cool sub $100 ham toys.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

I got one of these , and I'm pretty happy with it. It's got pretty great sound and it's pretty loud. Great speaker, especially for the price.

Not sure what OP is using, but I tried a few different models while trainhopping, and I highly recommed Baofeng digital scanners. Excellent range, huge memory bank, kickass battery life, and can take a beating.

Even better, they are really affordable and theres a wide variety if you wanna get fancy.

The 30 dollar model (UV-5r) will work for most hobos, but the BF-FH8P for 60 dollars is a great, great scanner.

Welcome!

The link you posted doesn't work. It got truncated somehow. Try pasting that again in the comments.

I always recommend the Baofeng UV-5R to the budget-minded. It costs $27 and is pretty good in performance (from my use and from what I've heard from others). With the stock antenna on this radio, you should be able to get a few miles of range in open spaces. You can upgrade the antenna to a "quarter wave" antenna to better that range. The higher up your antenna is in the air, the farther out you will be able to reach with your radio -- UHF/VHF radios are all 'line of sight'.

You will also be able to use local ham radio repeaters in your area to talk to people around you. Repeaters will greatly enhance your range as they are typically built on tall towers or hill tops. You can look for repeaters in your area on RepeaterBook. Under "band", select 2m or 70cm (the UV-5R supports both bands)

However, you're going to need a ham radio license (at least a Technician class) to transmit. Also, your family is going to need ham radio licenses to transmit. If this does not work for you, I would recommend FRS/GMRS radios or CB radios which can be used without a license.

A good alternative to "garbage" gaming headsets would be a pair of headphones and a mic to go with it. Can't really tell what price point you mean by not to expensive is but because I have them I recommend Phillips SHP9500's. Now there are other great headpones out there made by Sennheiser, Audio-Terchnica, etc... but I have only used the SHP 9500's so I don't have an opinion on there quality. For a mic you can get something like a mod mic, v-moda boom pro(recomended for shp 9500) or a zalman clip on mic. Now I would advise looking up some headphones and find a headpone/mic combo in your budget and not just go shp9500/v-moda right away because I recommend them. Now for a soundcard the one in your mobo is good enough. Here is a post about this topic from a while back to shed some more light on it. https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/4nabvv/gaming_audio_and_you_why_995_of_gaming_headsets/

Here is a great audio recorder, you'll have to sync up the audio in post but it has great sound. https://www.amazon.com/TASCAM-DR-05-Portable-Digital-Recorder/dp/B004OU2IQG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495566740&sr=8-3&keywords=tascam . The camera seems pretty good looking at the specs. I personally would prefer having a mirrorless or a DSLR, but camcorders can do some good stuff too.

I was hoping if be able to do this with my receiver, but it just wasn't possible. I ended up buying a cheaper Bluetooth speaker and it gets the job done perfectly running Spotify on my phone. Might be your best option as well

This is the speaker I bought if you're interested:
OontZ Angle 3 (3rd Gen) - Bluetooth Portable Speaker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010OYASRG

Do you know if you want a full-size keyboard, tenkeyless or 60%? The KUL-87 is a really good tenkeyless board with a standard layout. Also, WASD makes both full-size and tenkeyless high quality boards and you can completely customize the board color, each keycap color, choice of Cherry MX switches, and even the font and placement on the keys. Solid board all the way around. If you want a 60%, I can recommend the Leopold FC660M as I own one and it is a really good board. The Pok3r is one of the more popular 60% boards.

Check out /r/MechanicalKeyboards for more info on keyboards.

For a headset I would recommend getting a good pair of regular headphones like the Sennheiser HD598, and maybe a headphone amp like from Schiit. Then either get something like a Modmic or even better, a standalone microphone like the Audio Technica AT-2020 or Blue Yeti.

Razr products aren't inherently bad but for the price there are better alternatives.

My personal recommendation: Take the Beyerdynamic DT 770 Pro 80 Ohms version.

On Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-770-PRO-250-ohms/dp/B0016MNAAI?th=1

Reasons:

1. High impendance. Puts the ESS Sabre Audio DAC to good use.
   
2. Excellent sound quality. Basses are well reproduced with excellent audio clarity.
   
3. Closed back: If you require near-perfect audio cancellation, this is for you.
   
4. No gimmicks: You get a quality headset with no useless gimmicks such as virtual sorround (often baked to inflate perceived value, such as the Beats By Dre shills).
   
5. Compatible with mod mics: If you prefer external microphone support, such as these by AntLion, you're in for a treat: https://www.amazon.com/Antlion-Audio-ModMic-Attachable-Microphone/dp/B00T6XUL8S
   
   Speaking from experience, as that combination is my daily driver.
   
   What do you get from all this?
   
   (a). Independent volume control for both chat (via the mic) and in-game and audio output (via the headset).
   (b). No compromises: Should you prefer to repurpose this headset for professional audio production, say, in a studio, any high-powered DAC will drive it.
   
   Note that the ESS Sabre Audio is rated to drive up to 600 Ohm headsets, so it should be able to drive anything in the market. The reason I recommend the 80 Ohm over the 250 Ohm headset is because the perceived audio quality between the two headsets is almost identical, for a much more affordable entry point.
   
   Have fun.

I'm still kinda new to the audiophile stuff and only know about closed backs in the ~$100 range but I personally have a pair of Coolermaster mh752/1's and I'm loving those, they're amazingly comfy straight out of the box and the audio is very good for the price. Other than that I've read that the audiotechnica ath M40x has better audio than the mh752's but the pads have to be replaced before they're usable. For the mpow adapter [these] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KXIKCSI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8uYGCbE4VRMYM) were the ones that were recommended to my by some other people. you can probably do a quick search for ~$200 headphones and just buy an adapter to go with it.

Edit: link fumbling

​

Edit 2: okay the link isnt getting fixed so im just gonna leave it

Yea, I was looking at something similar but has aptx support.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EHSX28M

Bunch on amazon that look a like, probably rebranded stuff. Not sure how well they will work with a microphone like modmic.

Maybe I should give up the DIY quest with clunky solutions for the modmic and go with something more elegant like bTunes

Replacing pads on the SHP9500 is not that difficult, just a little more involved. There is the Shure 1540 pad which is made from Alcantara and very nice, a little better than velour for comfort/breathable feeling. Only thing is they are darker sounding and really require you to peel off the foam backing (tedious work) to get rid of the slight veil/muffled quality they have. The Shure 1840 velour pads are my preference as they retain the stock sound but are more comfortable than stock and with custom attenuator placed in the pads the bass is what it should be. The 1840 pads are also 1/2 the price of the 1540 pads.

As for sheepskin, I have always found it better than pleather for breathability, but velour is best along with whatever Sennheiser uses for their HD700 pads.

For $30 you can get a highly regarded Bluetooth adapter to make the M40X, SHP9500, or any other headphone, wireless:

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Headphones-Hands-free/dp/B01KXIKCSI

SHP9500S + 1540 pads + MPOW + Boom PRO mic would be around $150...

What your family member is looking at buying is a Baofeng UV-5R. It is actually not designed to be a scanner but is a ham radio that can transmit/receive public safety bands. It is perfectly legal to own these radios and they are extremely common. Unlike most other radios however, they will do nothing to prevent you from transmitting on bands that you're not allowed to transmit on. So while it would be perfectly fine for them to get that radio, they just have to be very careful not to hit the transmit button.

If they are dead set on purchasing one, I would encourage them to get their amateur radio license so they can learn how to properly operate their radio, learn all about the relevant laws, and communicate on the the amateur bands that the UV-5R can transceive on.

I'm still happily using this MPow one well over a year on, most of which time I've been moving it back and forth from one car to another. Sadly, it's no longer available.

When I decided to get a second one to eliminate the swapping, I got this Nulaxy one which has also been great so far,... but I've only had it for a month or so.

The MPow one is built solidly - I can't imagine it breaking, so I'd expect their newer model to be solid as well. Interestingly, though, it seems that a number of different brand names of these devices are literally the same hardware, with brand-specific firmware as the only distinguishing difference. So generalizing about hardware/manufacturing may be invalid. E.g., here's another that looks to be the same hardware as the discontinued MPow, but still available. Scrolling through the available models, I see at least 4 other brands that look identical to the MPow and numerous ones that look identical to the Nulaxy.

Exactly how have the ones you've had failed?

[Edit - caveat: I've been perfectly happy with both devices for playing music (flac player on Samsung Note 3 > Bluetooth to fm), but never have gotten the MPow to perform as a speakerphone worth a crap. Its mic just doesn't pick up my loud voice in a moving car competing against road noise, though it's possible I just haven't been able to adjust its input volume properly. I haven't had a chance to try the Nulaxy one yet as a speakerphone. ]

Sound level meter

For switch I am using a FiiO HS2, but they are discontinued and harder to get a hold of. It rocks though because it has 4 I/O by 2 I/O. When I'm not using it for testing, I just leave 4 headphones connected to the same source so I can just use the switch to control which one is getting the input.

There are cheaper switches like the Sescom one.

Also, I think this is a worthy combo for anyone. The switch box is functional to use for hooking up multiple sources or multiple headphones for convenience. And the sound level meter is good to check your normal listening volumes to make sure you are staying in safe levels. Definitely worth having as a hobbyist.

That is my favorite feature. I'll grab a beer or a snack while chatting. Modmic is a good alternative if you don't want to spend too crazy. It allows you to get both a good mic and good headphones for a better wired headset. I have two friends who use those and they sound great.

I am buying a new headset to use for VR, gaming, and for music. I am done using cheap $20 USB headsets. My kids are at the age I can tell them not to touch my headphones. So this is my into into good sound.

I have settled on an open backed headset from reading many reviews and because I hate the feeling of suction cups on my head.

Audio-Technica ATH-AD500X Audiophile Open-Air Headphones
Seemed like a really nice option in my price range.

I would also probably get: Antlion Audio Muted ModMic I like the ability to clip it to my monitor or headset if I like.

I have an on Board HD VIA AUDIO (VT2020) on my GIGABYTE (GA-Z77X-UD3H) motherboard.

Should I also save up for a better sound card?

Any other recommendations with:

• price range ($200CAD)
  
• open back (heard it sounds better and I need to hear those damn kids)
  
• stereo (no need for weird 5.1/7.1 as I will be using this for VR as well)
  
• Mic (I like ModMic 4.0 or built in mic)
  

If the radio doesn't have an "AUX" mode, then this really isn't possible to do. Given your car is a 2000, it's highly unlikely an AUX port was even an option.

Two solid alternatives:

1. Purchase an FM Modulator, like this or this. They're relatively easy to install, and you can probably do it yourself. It basically works like an FM Transmitter, but connects directly into your antenna port for a much cleaner signal. It can also be switched on or off, so you keep full use of your radio.
   
2. Purchase an aftermarket head unit. It's certainly cheaper to do an FM Modulator, but upgrading to a good aftermarket head unit will make you happier in the long run. Especially with a stock head unit from 2000, you're bound to start having trouble with it at some point in the near future.
   
   Hope this helps!

You could try something like a switch. 3.5m M to M cable to the input spot, headphone on A, 3.5m to RCA y adapter from B to your speaker amp. There are some cheap ones, but almost all of them (including this one) have at least a couple bad reviews saying you add noticeable noise. Doesn't control volume, so this gets a little awkward (control volume of headphones in Windows, but control volume of speakers on the amp). This also doesn't handle the mic, so that would still have to plug into the back.

Something like this would increase quality and make volume control easier. It's a separate DAC/headphone amp, along with a preamp that would go out to your speaker amp (again using a 3.5mm to RCA y adapter). Connecting the mic separately to the back of the computer would still be awkward. As you mention, there are separate AMPs that would have similar functionality, but most aren't necessarily cheaper than this.

There are also combo DAC / headphone / speaker amps. Something like this. Not any cheaper, though, and still doesn't have a spot for your mic. Benefit here is only needing one device for both headphone and speaker.

Creative makes a complete solution, but it's crazy expensive. I would honestly buy a USB desktop microphone rather than spend this much.

The RPi doesn't have audio input or HDMI input. If you want to get audio out of the Yamaha via the HDMI connection then you'll need a HDMI audio extractor box. Plug that into a Bluetooth aptx transmitter. aptx is much better quality than regular Bluetooth audio but you need to make sure the transmitter and your speakers support it.

You need the HDMI audio extractor anyway if you want to get the audio from the HDMI cable. It is easier to just use a purpose built Bluetooth aptx transmitter than dealing with the RPi. You'll probably have much better latency as well.

I am unclear of the application you want to use this for - if you just want to have two people participate in a podcast - and I presume here the podcast is just two people talking - and your aim is to record it (for later upload).

Then all you need to do is have two mics combined - which your special dual microphone set already does.

What you can do is plug this microphone jack into the mic port of a Y-splitter (of the type I mentioned above) - then plug in a headphone splitter into the earphones port of the same Y-splitter.

Then plug the Y-splitter into your Android device.

Now you just record as usual.using our app or other audio recorder app.

Now the problem is with your requirement that you also hear yourself and the other person speaking (i.e. whatever is being recorded - you also want to hear). On Android this will always have audio latency (i.e. delay). If this was an Apple device (iOS) it will have much less delay - but there will be some delay but it won't confuse you. I can't think of an app off the top of my head - I think RobVox is also available on iOS - so perhaps if you have an iOS device you could try RobVox and if it allows recording and it already has the Headphone mirroring feature - then it may work better on iOS - check them out on iOS:

https://apps.apple.com/us/app/robovox-voice-changer/id584847250
RobVox Voice Changer

Other than this - if you are willing to forgo the listening-to-yourself part - i.e. are willing to just leave your headphones off so you can listen to the other person just over the air, then you can use the Android solution - since you will then not have to listen to yourself. With our app you can turn off the headset mirroring feature - click Settings - Output Settings - Listen to Record (Headset) - and turn if Off.

But if you want to hear the recording also - then go with the iOS (test an iOS device first with RobVox if you can).

Other than that there maybe dedicated audio recorder devices which allow two mics, and have audio mirroring - these will have very low latency I think. But these would be expensive also.

You will need one which has a separate port for the audio output for headphones for audio mirroring (basically you need devices which have a field recorder feature).

I know some of the very expensive such devices have that:

https://www.amazon.com/Tascam-DR-40X-Four-Track-Recorder-Interface/dp/B07N3FDT3M/
Tascam DR-40X Four-Track Digital Audio Recorder and USB Audio Interface
$179

https://www.amazon.com/Tascam-Stereo-Portable-Digital-Recorder/dp/B004OU2IQG/
TASCAM DR-05 Portable Digital Recorder (Version 2)
$90

https://www.amazon.com/Zoom-H5-Four-Track-Portable-Recorder/dp/B00KCXMBES/
Zoom H5 Four-Track Portable Recorder
$279

I can't off the top of my head recall which have the audio mirroring feature, but I think some devices like these have the audio mirroring to headphone - and have a separate headphone port. And possibly even two ports for two microphones (?)

For these types of solutions, the folks on r/podcasting may have better solutions.

High end costs a lot of money, more than $200, but $200 is still going to get you plenty.

On ear headphones sit on your ear, over ear ones rest around your ear on your head.

You could just buy a mic then you would be set, or pick up some HiFi headphones too. Its up to you and how much would want to spend.

Closed backed headphones have the outside made of a solid material to block the noise going in and out. Open backed headphones just have some kind of mesh to let the sound in and out, this gives a performance benefit but means anyone nearby will be able to hear the music.

For some ideas for headphones, HD598, A500x, M50x, SHP9500. As for the mic, the modmic is a popular choice.

What kind of sound do you want?

If you like your Bose headphones then you could get a good mic, possibly like this one or this one.

Yeah but you don't have to spend much at all to just put your toe in the water. Study for and pass the entry level technician exam (which is super easy, it's a memorization effort) and get an inexpensive 5 watt handheld that can reach your nearest repeater and you are on your way for well under $50. It's fun.

Random, I thought it was the same across the board. In my state it's $14 per test session, not test, so if you wanted to take all three tests in one go, you could.

Look into the Baofengs, especially the UV-5R which just dropped in price. Very easy to use, and easy to program, all you need is to know where your local repeaters are. If you want, toss a mag-mount antenna on to it, which you can pick up for like $17. Or, you can make one from a coffee can.

At the very least, this little radio will get you on the repeaters and chatting with other local hams. My advice to to start setting aside money for a better radio as soon as possible, though, wait around for a ham fest you can go to or keep an eye on Estate/Garage sales.

There are also a number of apps that will let you play radio more or less for free. EchoLink, HamSphere, stuff like that. But you need to have your callsign to use them.

My budget was somewhat limited but have really enjoyed my Oontz Angle. Good battery life, sound quality and aesthetically pleasing. Will test it out once my pi3 arrives :)
http://www.amazon.com/OontZ-Angle-Bluetooth-Portable-Speaker/dp/B010OYASRG

Yes. I especially enjoy listening over the car speakers via the bluetooth link. It's easy to set up if you have the right hardware.

• Flexsmart X2 for Bluetooth-to-FM in our older car.
  
  
• FIPO iPod to Bluetooth adapter Not really $95 as indicated in the link. More like $10-20. Great for hooking up to a car that supports the iPod Dock Connector.
  
  I also use the Tasker App to auto-launch Google Music as soon as it detects the bluetooth link-up.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018E0I01I/

I have an 04 Subaru that doesn't even have an aux jack, and this has been the best purchase I've made recently. I use it every day, sound quality is good enough that I can hear audiobooks clearly over high speed road noise (and my car is noisy), bass sounds solid, music quality is way better than AM/FM radio. And it has a USB port so I can still charge my phone at the same time. The built in microphone isn't great, but it's good enough and is super low hassle and easy to use.

I'm very happy with this:

https://www.amazon.com/Cambridge-SoundWorks-OontZ-Angle-Generation/dp/B010OYASRG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500589399&sr=8-1&keywords=oontz+angle

It has good range and great sound and can resist dust & splashes. Search Amazon for OontZ Angle and you will find some other options that might suit your needs better. :)

You can get a bluetooth Fm transmitter that will plug into your car and allow you to usb charge your phone and play music. Any 2003 car is not going to have the best sound but this will be much better than a cassette converter. Plus you have the added benefit of charging your phone. Here is a link for one on amazon with good reviews.

Same as AdamPresley said, don't know if it is the best option, but we use the Audio Technica AT897 and it picks up great audio and we don't even use a windmuff.
the price has gone up since I last bought it ($180 4 years ago) and you will need an audio recorder for it. We use the Tascam DR-05. Also, you'll need a mic cable to connect the mic to the recorder.
At the current prices, the items would put you at $350.
But at least it should provide some options and ideas.
Good luck!

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT897-Gradient-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B0002TTN3Y

https://www.amazon.com/Tascam-Stereo-Portable-Digital-Recorder/dp/B004OU2IQG/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519285722&sr=1-4&keywords=tascam+dr-05&dpID=41TtabMYp7L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

This thing is awesome and very easy to use. Just plug in your USB cord and play. Simple interface like navigating through a folder in Windows. And what's best of all it plays EVERYTHING.

Car stereo is a little vague. We will need to know at least the model of your car and what you are actually trying to improve. Do you want upgraded speakers, upgraded headunit or just better sound and an aux input?

I've installed a bunch of car stereos for friends and I've also had good luck with inline fm modulator. Unlike regular fm modulator which wirelessly connect, these ones directly connect to the antenna cable located behind your headunit.

FM Modulator

Disclaimer: The link above is just a random modulator I found on amazon. This is not a specific product recommendation only a possible cheap solution.

Thanks for the recommendation, but are you sure it would work at the distances I said above? This Q&A on amazon says has a couple of answers saying everyone would have to be bunched closely together to be heard:

Question:
Would this be good for a podcast with 4 people?
Answer:
it might work if the room has acoustic treatment (quiet) and all 4 voices speak loud, If this is an investment for something semi pro, I rather go with the Tascam DR-40, which has 2 stereo mics like this tascam but you can also plug 2 extra mics

By fm on March 31, 2014
The DR-40 would be a better choice for that. It has the capacity for two additional external mics with XLR input. So sound quality would be much better and you wont have to bunch everyone close together.
By M on November 11, 2015

http://www.amazon.com/TASCAM-DR-05-Portable-Digital-Recorder/dp/B004OU2IQG

Thanks a lot for suggesting those. I'm not too specific with sound (for games, certainly a little more picky with music) so I'll check out some reviews for the NuForce you mentioned. Also thank you very much for mentioning the aptx-LL codec - that's good information to have.

If you don't mind a follow up question, I'd now like to ask about the Bluetooth Transmitter. Right now I'm using a crappy USB dongle just to pair controllers with my PC. I'm sure that's not what I need in this case. So is this a "transmitter" that you're referring to? And after knowing what I'm looking to achieve with my IEMs, do you have any recommendations? I know you said the transmitter needs to also support aptx-LL, and the one I linked seems to say it has that. But just not sure if it's a good option. Usually the "Amazon Choice" stuff can be sketchy. Also does the Bluetooth version have any impact, say if the IEMs had a lower version and transmitter a higher version, or vice versa? I don't even know if this is a good budget for a transmitter, but I'd be willing to do $50 or less for a transmitter since the IEMs you recommended are only $150.

Thanks a ton for your help!

I was in a similar situation and bought one of these https://www.amazon.com/Nulaxy-Wireless-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Adapter/dp/B018E0I01I works great, just set it to an unused FM frequency and it's nice and clear. The Amazon reviews and bestseller status are also a good indicator. Even has AUX input, if needed. Save $1470. Recommended.

Miccas are a great choice. I have a pair and highly recommend them. Keep in mind there is a powered version now for $100. But if you want the passive miccas with some better power you'll need a stronger amp. Smsl is recomended. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F0H8TOC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421252968&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40


I have a sanda clip+ as well, but the display is extremely tiny. If you bump your budget, the x1 is solid. I have one and I really like it for the price. Under $150 depending on what sd card size you get.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NS3MRKC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421253022&sr=8-1


I don't think you need another DAC just for speakers. I'd put that money toward a receiver or some better speakers. Maybe some headphones if you don't have any.

Well, it won't be illegal to order anything under the regulations, nor will it be illegal to have them shipped to you. I don't think this would be a customs issue at all. Customs doesn't know whether each item has received approval for sale, just as they don't know if the CE, UL , FCC, etc. markings are valid on devices.

The onus would be on the seller, they would be breaking the rules, but the item itself would not be illegal to possess.

There are already tons of items that have dodgy approval markings on them. Customs doesn't care. They are interested in finding contraband, not figuring out whether device A, with this certain chipset, was approved for sale, while device B, with this other chipset, was not.

For instance, this radio makes you a criminal the moment you hit the transmit button on certain bands. It is not part approved for communications on HAM frequencies, and you must possess a HAM license to use it if it was part approved. It is sold on Amazon and is hugely popular.

If you have a stereo cable output on your TV, you could connect it to an Echo​ Dot or other external speaker...Amazon actually has some awesome, super cheap external speakers like this one that accept a stereo cable: Cambridge SoundWorks OontZ Angle 3 Next Generation Ultra Portable Wireless Bluetooth Speaker : Louder Volume 10W+, More Bass, Water Resistant, Perfect Speaker for Golf, Beach, Shower & Home (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010OYASRG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_g96fzbS6JKX3K

Sounds like an HT would be a good first addition.

• Baofeng UB-82 - Dual band HT, great for local communication, repeater access, etc etc. You can also monitor other public service frequencies/weather band. $37.50
  
• Handheld mic for the Baofeng - Nice if you keep it on your desk in a charger, or if the radio is clipped to a bag or something, you can still access the mic (it's also a speaker). $6.37
  
• USB Programming Cable - Easily program memory channels with your computer. $20.46
  
• Upgraded antenna for the HT - This one is pretty big, plenty on Amazon of various size which will vary in performance, but anything should be better than the stock antenna. $16.99
  
  Well that's $81.32. Remaining could be spent on an extra battery, a power cable for the car etc etc.

Honestly I suggest getting rid of those Razers and purchasing a quality pair of headphones with a modmic. This would be a MUCH better choice. In an enclosed space, multiple drivers are always worse than two well designed drivers.

Also, the hissing could be due to noise from your CPU/network card etc. or just from the headphones themselves... unfortunately that set is mostly marketing and not much of quality design.

If you just bought those new, see if you can return them and get a pair of Philips SHP9500s as well as something like a ModMic. There are less expensive external microphones as well you can check out, but the modmic is of great quality and adheres to the side of the headphone.

That setup is the real deal and would kick the shit out of any headset on the planet.

Not a BT transmitter specifically, but I've had several BT receivers and headsets over the years. I can say at least if you buy something cheap, expect it to perform poorly or not last long. Those transmitters around $30 look like they are middle of the market so you would probably have a decent time with it. As with all things you buy on Amazon though, see what other people say, the one OP mentioned has almost 1000 reviews and it is 4.5 stars. At first glance, that looks like a pretty good one. For more info, check the reviews themselves, since they are written by people who have used that. I think this one is the one OP has, maybe

This is what I use for a wide variety of things.
this is also a very good choice.


In the ZOOM world, there is this. I have a friend that uses one of these and he loves it.


Again, good luck!

• 1. The best headset is not a headset at all. A good pair of headphones and a good microphone is much better than any headset out there. I'd recommend something like a pair of Audio Technicha ATH-AD700X (or the 700s basically the same thing, just different colors) As for a mic, the best option is the Mod Mic 4.0, a Zalman ZM Mic 1, or a USB Mic. If you must get a headset, the Hyper X Cloud is the best option, though there are a few nice Sennheiser options.
     
     
• 2. Horror games are not my expertise, but I'll find some that I've heard are good:
     
     
• Amnesia Dark Descent
  
  
• Alien Isolation
  
  
• And from other sources:
  
  http://www.pcgamer.com/best-horror-games-pc/
  
  http://www.rockpapershotgun.com/2015/07/27/best-horror-games/
  
  http://www.pcworld.com/article/2838314/software-games/15-terrifying-pc-horror-games-to-play-with-the-lights-off.html
  
  
  

I'm your guy, I've tried tons of these. I have two setups that I can recommend.

I recommend this one the most, it's been the best and most reliable for quite some time for me. Sound quality is great. Also, it has bluetooth, which works great. Just a tip, use the bluetooth and download an app called Android Auto. It's a driving friendly interface that combines your music/podcast apps, navigation, phone app, and Google Voice commands for texts if you need. You can text by voice and it gives you the option to speak your text messages when you get them. You can also set the app to automatically start and shut off when your phone's bluetooth turns on or off.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003PPGOC0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Or, this one, really good so far, seems as good as the first but the first is really durable.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AIM5ZE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Here's a tip for the best sound quality out of these if you'll only use your FM transmitter in your car and not the radio. Unscrew the antenna out of your car and toss it in a closet or somewhere. Then a lot of low to medium signal radio stations won't interfere. Which is the cause of like 90% of the bad quality you'll hear.

I'm thinking of buying a mic to start recording youtube videos. I'd be mostly doing voiceovers, but I'd be talking to my friends on skype when I'm not recording.

My friend has recommend the ModMic.

However, I've seen some reviews that say the ATR2100 is pretty good.

I wanted to get a second opinion, what do you guys think?

A couple of things to consider....

• The media that you have, what video and audio codec is it and what container is used? Will an Amazon Fire be able to play the content natively?
  
  
• If the answer to the above question is "no," then you will want your storage to also be able to transcode the media. Plex does this pretty well, but you'll want something a little more powerful than what you're looking at.
  
  
• there are a couple of NAS that are powerful enough to transcode your media, depending on how many devices you want to serve to. QNAP and Synology come to mind, but you're looking at more $$$
  
  Another option is to buy something like this:
  
  amazon.com/gp/product/B008NO9RRM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
  
  which can play media off of an external hard drive

Can vouch for the Audio Technica AUD ATHAD500X. Have had a pair for almost a year now and the quality is excellent. The open design creates a good soundscape for positional audio. Not the best for listening to music (bass is a bit weak), but for gaming they do really well at a pretty good price.

I slapped an Antlion Mod mic on the side and it holds well. Was worried the mesh design wouldn't provide enough surface area for the mic's adhesive backing, but it hasn't so much as wiggled.

Here's some more info:

Checkout /r/amateurradio, as well as the ARRL website, which has a ton of helpful "what is" and "how to" info. They act as the primary membership and advocacy organization for ham radio.

Find a local club here: http://www.arrl.org/find-a-club

Broadcastify and WebSDR are some ways to listen to ham radio via the web, and the low-cost RTLSDR USB dongle or a Baofeng UV-5R radio are some cheap ways to start listening to the RF spectrum in your area.

https://hamstudy.org/ is the best way to study for your license, which has free practice exams (pretty much all you need to pass is rote memorization). Otherwise you can read the free No-Nonsense technican class guide or buy a license manual from the ARRL.

Finally, find a test session here and get on the air!

Definitely consider the transmitter. Older models used to have serious interference problems, in large part because the wire connecting the MP3 player/whatever acted as an antenna in and of itself. Bluetooth models (and probably anything with a shielded wire) have fewer issues as it is intended to be an antenna so it doesn't interfere (think of it as the difference between a pipe that only leaks a drip rather than a spray).

I recently purchased a bluetooth one http://www.amazon.com/FlexSMART-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Hands-Free-Smartphones/dp/B003PPGOC0/ since my car's cd player has been crapping out and I am going to be driving cross country in a few weeks.

In limited testing, it works fairly well. I still get a bit of noise at times (I am in an area with a lot of FM radio stations and I basically drive toward a giant one every morning), but it is at least comparable to listening to normal radio. For what it is worth, it is currently outputting in between two other stations (88.4 in between 88.3 and 88.5), so it is definitely able to work in busy areas and can work a lot better if I could be arsed to find a more free frequency.

And if you would rather use an MP3 player or anything else that can't connect by bluetooth, that model also has a normal audio in port. And either way, you can still use your port to charge your phone/whatever since it has a USB charging port too (that may or may not act as an input).

My ideas:

• 2 meter transceiver - Baofeng A great and cheap introduction into amateur radio. For those already a ham, I don't need to say anything more about the Baofeng.
  
  
• Baofeng 3800mAh Battery Double the capacity of the original battery. Makes it more unwieldy though.
  
  
• Weller Analog Soldering Station Imagine using an actually good soldering iron!
  
  
• Weller Industrial Soldering Gun If you like making antennas.
  
  
• APRSTM GPS position Encoder Broadcast your GPS coordinates through radio.
  
  
• Radio Astronomy Kit Listen to radio emissions from the Sun and Jupiter.
  
  
• Oscilloscope Kit See the a visual of RF? I haven't played with oscilloscopes.
  
  
• 20M CW Transceiver Kit Get 2 and practice morse code with a friend.
  
  
• Arduino Uno Starter Kit Arduino does more with electronics and Raspberry Pi more with Python programming.

That was the first thing that came in mind and my solution was buying a tiny Bluetooth adapter for my car and some badass Bluetooth earphones. Took a bit to getting use to but life has actually been a lot easier with these two cheap easy solutions and no longer having to deal with an extra cable. Haven't dealt with any connection issues too, just switch on Bluetooth and they connect right away and have awesome sound quality.

I hope you enjoy the radio Buddy, I have the original UV-5R and love it. I strongly recommend you upgrade the antenna as the stock one isn't optimal for range.

The most oft-recommended antenna is the Nagoya 771: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KC4PWQQ?psc=1

The Fiio X1 would probably be the best choice, when it comes to file-support, space and price

If you're looking for even more space, a richer sound and a lovely design (imo) i would say the iBasso DX50 is a good choice, a bit more pricey though...

Just thinking about your problem and keeping your tank and mod upright in your backpack during the day.......I travel a lot for business and also pleasure (wildlife photography) and I carry a ton of gear with me when I fly. For Christmas my BIL gave me a very cool gift to help keep all of my cords and stuff organized. It's a Grid-It organizer [click here for link] (http://www.amazon.com/Cocoon-CPG10BK-Grid-It-Organizer-Black/dp/B002HU27UW)

They're pretty cheap and not only could this hold your mod and tank upright in your backpack, it could hold other items such as juice, etc...

Hope this helps

Let's see if I can help...

Two cables exist for USB to serial control to the radio. One has the FTDI Chipset and one has the Prolific Chipset. The difference between the two is that the FTDI is bullet-proof reliable and will be one less headache for you as a ham. The Prolific is hit or miss. Some people have luck with it, and some people don't. As a new ham, I wouldn't want someone to get too frustrated which is why I recommend the better cable. The bonus is it works with Kenwood and Wouxun radios as well.

Good luck!

So the basic would be a FM transmitter. Moving up from that you get a hardwired FM transmitter. Again up from that would be a device like the PAC-audio AAI-HD3 or the grom audio device. Again moving up you've got units from isimple and grom that add Bluetooth streaming and hands free capability. But at that price point it's starting to hit the level where it's more cost effective to replace the radio. I would recommend replacing the radio out of all the solutions available. It will add more functionality and just sound and work better in the long run.

It's not the fanciest solution, but I use this:
http://www.amazon.com/GOgroove-FlexSMART-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Hands-Free/dp/B003PPGOC0

My car stereo doesn't even have an AUX input and the way the stereo is integrated into the dash, no easy way to install an aftermarket stereo. The GoGroove connects to your phone with Bluetooth, and then transmits the signal over FM to your car stereo. I've had other FM transmitters over the years and this is the best I've used.

Of course it's not perfect. If you need to do important phone conferences from your car, I'd get something nicer. For the occasional call, this works pretty well. I use it more for streaming music from my phone than for calls.

A total of 7 separate orders. It was a bit annoying because I was mostly on my phone and the mobile apps/chrome wouldn't load properly. Also I would have preferred to bundle orders but oh well. or try to use more coupons but they only give you so many minutes in the cart and sometimes the next item that you're waiting for a deal to start is right outside that window.

• the microSD cards for my nvidia shieldTV's so I can run plex server on them. - 2x SanDisk Ultra 128GB microSDXC - $19?
  
  
• For my server at home - 1x SanDisk Ultra II 480GB SATA III - $94
  
  I used the Visa30 coupon for above.
  
  
• Needed a new one since the one I have now has a crappy battery life - 1x Black+Decker BDH2000PL MAX Lithium Pivot Vacuum - $54?
  
  
• 1x Mental Blox 360 Degree 3-D Building Game - $18
  
  
• 1x Origami Paper - $12?
  
  
• For the server - 1x CyberPower CP1000PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS 1000VA 600W PFC Compatible Mini-Tower - $85
  
  
• 1x
  Spoga Mop, Broom and Sports Equipment Organizer Wall Mount - $10
  
  
• set of door stoppers - $10
  
  
• 1x Golfsmith Gift Card $25 - $20
  
  
• 1x Aukey dual car charger Quick Charge 3.0 - $18
  
  
• 1x Magformers Vehicle Zoo Racing Set (55-pieces) - $84
  
  I missed out on the $50 gift card because I didn't have the physical credit card with me and it asked for the full card number. I also wanted this Anker BT Speaker but it went pretty fast and everytime the waitlist message popped up on my phone the app was too laggy and I couldn't get it in the cart. oh well.
  
  edit: bargh! just realized i needed a smaller UPS of which there was a cyberpower one on sale. d0h!

You rock man! This helps a lot.

If I can ask one more question - do you know of any good resources for learning about audio & audio equipment? Not necessarily just for podcasting... I just think some kind of Audio 101 presentations would be beneficial for me.

The more I've thought about it, the more I think using dual Tascam DR05s will be fine for now. It won't be on par with Kevin Smith or Chris Hardwick, but I don't think it'll be bad enough to turn anyone off. I'm hesitant to tell him to buy anything right at the start anyway. Unless you're NPR or someone who already has a massive following, it takes a good while to build a podcast's audience. I'm worried that he will get discouraged and give up once he has 10 or so episodes out there and only ~100 downloads per. Then again, if he spends a bunch of money it might be easier to convince him to keep going...

I talked to him a bit ago and it looks like we're going to try and record an episode tomorrow. I guess he's testing people out as co-hosts so I'm gonna give that a shot (even though I hate the sound of my own voice). If the Tascams work out better than expected I'll make a new post with the results in case that might help anyone else.

Thanks again for your help!

Sat phones are nice but have ongoing cost. You can get them used for a couple hundred each, and a service plan will run you approx $75-$100 a year for a prepaid card (maybe a little more if you have activation fees) - the prepaid cards expire if you don't use them in time. I would recommend the BaoFeng (get an 8 watt min.), you can get a full kit for under $65 Amazon. It would also be a fun 2 day class with you and your spouse. Class Ham classes are free, and the license is $15 for the exam.

I'm rocking either a ModMic/Headset combo or the ADG1X:

Antlion Audio ModMic 4.0 LINK

Note: If you have your favorite pair of headphones that you would love to have a mic on and convert it into a Headset, get the ModMic and apply it on!

Audio Technica ATH-AD900X Open-Back LINK

Note: Audio Technica ATH-AD700X Open-Back is a favored 2nd choice by me.

Creative Sound BlasterX G5 HD Audio External Sound Card LINK

Note: If you don't have a Sound Card and need something to drive your headset.

Audio-Technica ATH-ADG1X Open Air LINK

Note: This headset is Big Head Summit1G approved Kappa (Current headset he is using)

Get a community assembly/neighborhood action coalition going. We'll need those dual power structures to be ready.

Get your mutual aid game up. First aid trainings, tool libraries, dry canneries (yes this is from the LDS church, but they know their shit).

Get a ham radio and license, and get a comms network going with your comrades. Figure out how to get water if the power goes out (your water might too) - this might mean a generator for your well pump, or a huge bottle of iodine tablets for drinking rain barrel water from the roof of your building for a while.

Get a shotgun. $200 gets you a good one, you can hunt small game up to deer with it and a pump action is easy to maintain and not likely to be outlawed anytime soon.

Start today.

Wireless FM transmitter (w/ USB charger)

There's the one I purchased. You can find plenty that look similar to it at a fraction of the price. Being as I didn't have PRIME at the time, I was trying to meet a requirement of $50 for free shipping. That's the only product that still works. Super lightweight, bendable, durable, clear. I love it.

Get a cheap Bluetooth fm transmitter, I've got a couple of them for my vehicles and they are like $20. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018E0I01I I jump in the car and it kicks on and says "Waiting for Perry" It's supposed to say pairing but it's a Chinese attempt at a British accent so it sounds more like Perry. Then it says "Paired" and I play my music. I know everyone says they suck but I think it works just fine other than when it randomly switches to Chinese language every couple months and I have to switch it back to English, but who fucking cares it's like 20 bucks.

Most new TVs have USB ports built in. Since you said you have a smart tv with ethernet, sounds like it's a newer TV. Look on the back of it. You can probably just plug a flash drive into and play directly on the TV.

If that's not an option there are digital media players like this. I've had things like this in the past. Download all you want to an external hard drive, plug it into this and you can play whatever you want on your TV.

They are pretty cheap and you can probably get one on eBay for next to nothing. Actually the one I have now is a Sony blu-ray player that has a wired internet connection plus the USB port so I can use it for basically any type of media or streaming service plus blu-rays and dvds. Cost me $35 new from eBay.

That's still a condenser mic so by design it is very sensitive. You're also probably going to have to turn up the gain with it, which is where the hum comes in.

If you're not opposed to a mic with a stand/boom, then an Audio Technica 2100 is probably the best bet. It's a cardoid pattern, so it minimizes sounds coming from the sides and back of the mic and it's dynamic so it will really only pick up sounds that are a couple inches from the mic.

If you don't want anything on your desk, then an Antlion boom mic . It's uni-directional and has a physical mute switch. It positions itself close to your mouth so you don't have to turn the gain up too high.

Right, I've had some time to go over it all, and I apologise if this is wrong.

If I buy the following:

Headset: AKG K712PRO - seemed like the best universal reviews (in a reasonable price bracket!), but if you have opinions I'd be very grateful to hear them

Mic - Antlion

Amp - Astro Gaming MixAmp Pro TR Kit

As well as a headphone splitter.

It is above my budget, but if it is worth it I can wait a bit longer.

A bit late to the party but I thought I'd throw in a comment. I haven't personally used it, but I've heard very good things about the ModMic. You can attach it to any pair of headphones you have, so instead of investing in a gaming headset that is purely a gaming headset, you can use any pair. It will also work when upgrading.

Not sure what your budget is, but I think a popular choice is the Sennheiser HD600s. Like I said, I haven't personally used the ModMic but I think it would be worth looking into especially if you'd consider upgrading in the future.

My sister got a car with bluetooth, but here's the thing: Media playback only works on apple devices.

That's right, for android phones you can only use it for calls. I would have noped out of that right at the start no matter how good the rest of the car is.

I've had this thing for years and it still works perfect. Sounds better than any other FM transmitter I've tried and it has line out in case you have an aux in on your car as well as line in for devices that don't have bluetooth. The line in works even when something is pared, so you don't have to turn off bluetooth.

so you'll need 2 things: phono pre-amp and a transmitter

a quick Amazon search shows no phono pre-amps with an ADC built in, and the only ones I can find are $150+. something like this Pyle phono stage, paired with this Tao Bluetooth transmitter

the 1Mii transmitter may be a bit better quality wise. it also doesn't require batteries, if that matters

I'm sure there's a better (perhaps all in one) solution than what I've provided, but it should work fine and be easily obtainable via Amazon

That video was perfect thanks so much. Yeah I haven't had any problems with glare with the current radio and wouldn't want to cause any new issues. After watching the install it looks pretty easy. http://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Accord-Civic-3-5MM-iPhone-6-car-MP3-Interface-Aux-In-adapter-Brand-New-/390947699287?_trksid=p2385738.m2548.l4275 I think I'll give this one a try.
EDIT: or maybe this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003PPGOC0/?tag=thewire06-20&linkCode=xm2&ascsubtag=WC28042

How long is the sale? Also idk much about how bluetooth works but what makes this one better than say these three 1 2 3 I guess the third one is the best one to compare it too. Please help

The one downtown in 1998 and Gallatin in 2006 and Murfreesboro in 2009 are the strongest in recent memory. We get them, however they are usually weak and short lived. Rarely do we have strong long track Tornadoes. I wouldn't worry too much about it, doesn't hurt to prepare but it's not going to be life altering every year. We do get heavy downpours and strong straight line winds often, but as long as you have everything covered and secured, you should be OK.

Video 1998 Tornado: https://youtu.be/2fk0-LvNFB4

Video 2006 Tornado: https://youtu.be/XyZbkyBt2yw

Video 2009 Tornado: https://youtu.be/2QP-DOSUc4c

Get yourself one of these so you can listen to NOAA Weather Radio on 162.550 MHZ and The Middle Tennessee Emergency Amateur Radio System http://www.mtears.org https://www.amazon.com/BaoFeng-UV-5R-Dual-Radio-Black/dp/B007H4VT7A and optionally get licensed so you can participate in MTEARS http://www.arrl.org/getting-licensed

Like another commenter had said. I too prefer the Headphone and Microphone separate. Looking into it, I see $200 AUD is roughly $140 USB, so I personally recommend Sennheiser HD 558 Headphones, they cost just under $100 USD on Amazon, are super comfortable and they sound amazing.

As for a microphone, you could either give a Antlion Audio ModMic 4.0 Attachable Boom Microphone - Omni-Directional with Mute Switch a try if you wanted something similar to a gaming headphone setup, with a detachable microphone, OR go for a desk stand microphone, most basic ones will work, especially if you only use it for online gaming (audio quality wouldn't be a HUGE deal as opposed to if you were streaming or something.)

5% may not be accurate, but they'll be accounting for how often it gets used, too, and how easy of a problem it is to solve with an adapter.

This thing might be pretty cool, as it'd work for non-iPhones and work wirelessly for times when you don't need to plug it in to charge. It's fairly cheap with good reviews.

Something like this works a lot better as you can use in docked or undocked.

It also works great on planes that have TVs. It’s an awesome device.

You could get a radio as well. A Baofeng UV-5R, the most common radio for airsoft, is only $25 and is very helpful if you have a group that uses them.

Also, watch what they do and learn from it. Try to see how and why they beat you so you can prevent it next time.

If you're just straight up getting outgunned, there isn't much you can do. Upgrade your gun, get a better one, or just play better.

If you can't beat em, join em! Ask if you can play with them for the day. Maybe you'll learn a few things.

I would probably go for this $30 one since I can see that there is nothing funny going on inside but it's a little expensive for what it is. There are a bunch more on Amazon but they all look pretty chincy. You could certainly try your luck though. ^I've ^not ^used ^any ^of ^these ^products.

Does he have a handheld radio?
If not, Amazon has the Baofeng UV5R or Baofeng UV-5RA for less than $35 each (same radio, just different styling - I have the UV5R).
May we (I) also recommend getting this $7 programming cable so he can program it from his computer (easier than doing it by hand). And this $8 antenna will allow the radio to perform better than the one it comes with.

If he does not already have a radio like this, such a gift would surely surprise him and keep him busy all during Christmas.

Just as a heads up, because I think my audio solution is pretty great, I highly recommend checking out https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EHSX28M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and buying a bluetooth headset of your choice and just pair them together and attach the TaoTronics adaptor right to the side of the quest. This ALSO lets you attach the audio output of the quest to just about any bluetooth speaker as well, if you want to fill a room up with Quest sound.

There is no delay in Beat-saber, and it sounds much better than the stock speaker OR the earphones.

I recommend getting a Bluetooth to radio adapter. You plug it into a cigarette lighter outlet, and it connects to your phone via Bluetooth, and plays music by radio signal. I found it to be pretty handy, and I don't have that much interference from radio, I just use one of the super low frequency's, like 88.7 or 88.9.
Here's the one I have, I recommend it.

If it's not in your camping gear already, firestarting gear. In particular a fire steel, since they can't get waterlogged. It's late spring early summer, but if you really kill the jeep offgrid, exposure can still sneak up fast.


I'd also recommend some kind of radio. Vehicle mounted would be the best, but that requires more knowledge, time, and money to set up. Regular FRS/GMRS 'walkie-talkies' is also good to have, but range is limited. For a 'cheap insurance' option, the baofeng uv-5r variants are cheap and powerful hand sets. I'll link some gear below. Keep in mind, these are HAM radios; you need a license to use them normally, but you won't get in trouble if you have to send out an urgent mayday if you're in danger. The range is much better on these thing over CB; before you take it out, pop on some YT vids about how to program in frequencies, and lookup local freqs that are used for emergencies.


https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-Transceiver-400-520MHz-65-108MHz-Upgraded/dp/B00YMN0SCG/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=uv5r5&qid=1556650528&s=gateway&sr=8-1


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KC4PWQQ/ref=psdc_764460_t1_B071JR2LZK

This is pretty basic stuff. There won't be a significant difference between the cheapest and most expensive Bluetooth transmitter. Indeed, they likely have the same technology inside.

The "Amazon's Choice" gadget seems pretty nice to me. It can be used as a Transmitter or Receiver, and as a Transmitter, it can be paired with two receivers, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EHSX28M

Indeed. now that I did the research for you, I am going to buy one for myself. Thanks for the tip! :-)

This is my setup. I have this fm transmitter and love it
GOgroove FlexSMART X2 Bluetooth In-Car FM Transmitter with USB Charging , Multipoint , Music Controls & Hands-Free Calling - Works with Apple , Samsung , LG & More Smartphones , Tablets , MP3 Players https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003PPGOC0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_B5NQwbW6NM7SN

Then I use this mount and love it as well.
iOttie Easy One Touch 2 Car Mount Holder for iPhone 6s Plus 6s 5s 5c, Samsung Galaxy S5 S4 S3, Note 4 3, Google Nexus 5 4, LG G3. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JRGOKQ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_M6NQwbC017DRG

I have a Bluetooth to FM transmitter right now (This one 4.5/5 stars and 4,000+ reviews) but I'm still unhappy with the sound, but I'm not sure if it's the speakers, the stereo (Because there's no external amp, it's being powered by the stereo) or the speakers. It's fuzzy/muddy, it clips, etc.

Although replacing the speakers would be done anyways, so maybe I will just start with that..... And maybe put an external amp in between the MSSS and speakers, so it can be a little more powerful without having to remove the stereo..... Really the only "broken" part is the Mode button, which switches between top up or top down sound modes, doesn't work right so I had to put a McDonalds straw shim in to keep it depressed, and the cassette player doesn't work.

So I'm torn because I'd like to have a modern stereo and just be able to plug a device in, but I also don't want to get rid of the MSSS (Although I did see an AUX mod for it). Thanks for letting me talk this out by the way, it's definitely helping. I think I will start with the speakers, then maybe an amp, and if I still don't like the way it sounds, I will remove it, store it somewhere safe, and throw a new deck in there.

Thanks again!

I'll second Anker, though I have this one instead. It has great sound, great range, and outstanding battery life.

I'm not sure if this is the correct place to post this but I have a question regarding cassette adapters vs FM Transmitter Radio. I have an old 2004 Hyundai Sonata so I am currently using this in my car to listen to music on my phone. I've had it for a minute now but recently the quality has deteriorated and is no longer acceptable. I wanted to buy it again however I saw this product on amazon. I was wondering if this would provide better audio quality compared to the cassette adapter? Or if anyone has any other options that can provide the best sound quality possible for my car, i'm open to all suggestions.

Not sure where you got the advice format because it doesn't make much sense for a bluetooth speaker. but at this budget you might have more luck buying used. But , a Tribit XSound go on eBay is $27 with free shipping.

Other than that, under $20 there are the Anker Soundcore Speakers. The Soundcore Motion B is $20 flat right now. Also, the older original Soundcore is $24 at the moment.

Name has to be Roxane with an interior like that

Stuff to get:

FM transmitter. Can not stress how wonderful this is on a long drive. Radio music is crap so you can play your own songs or Spotify. I had this one in my last car and it worked fantastic, but I'm sure cheaper ones work just as well. Lets you charge at the same time too.

If you live where ice is this is the best ice scraper you will ever own.

Never buy a headset. They are overpriced and low quality. Marketed towards gamers, they cram in a mic with the headphones which raises costs and forces the company to make lower quality products to fit them in the headset and to lower prices. Buy a quality pair of headphones and get a separate mic, either one that is stand alone or one that attaches to the side of your headphones. Here are some headphones that I would recommend. Not sure what is "too pricey" for you, but these are some good products. Please don't buy some overpriced piece of hardware like beats or turtle beaches. If you want to know more info or want something a little cheaper I would recommend watching this.

Want bluetooth music and hands free headset for calls? Get a this:

http://www.amazon.com/GOgroove-FlexSMART-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Hands-Free/dp/B003PPGOC0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404246377&sr=8-1&keywords=gogroove+flexsmart+x2

Get a GoGroove FlexSMART.

I have my android set up to connect via BT when I get in the car, and then just use Google Play Music to stream whatever I want over the radio.

Best. Gadget. Ever.

Of course, you're going to get a little degradation of sound due to the FM transmission, but it sounds leagues better than a cassette adapter and allows you to make and receive calls, fast forward/backward, and stop pause your music.

The handsfree calling isn't the best on the other end, but they can hear me and the calls work just fine. I've never had one drop.

No, I don't work for the company... I just love mine. Even has a USB jack to charge your phone while you're using it, or just in the car.

I even have a little app that reads out my texts received over bluetooth, so I get that as well using this.

I don't know about laws in other counties, but in the USA you need to take (and pass) an exam. More info here: http://www.arrl.org/licensing-education-training. The entry-level license isn't all that difficult (and there's practice stuff online to get a sense of what kind of questions are asked). It's 35 questions and you must get 26 of those correct to pass.

As for the radio, I believe you can buy one and still use it to listen without a license. But do not transmit without a license. There's some pretty cheap ones on Amazon that get good reviews like this one. As a beginner, there's probably not much more you'll need out of a radio (and at ~$35 you're not making a huge investment into a hobby that you may not be sure about).

I have this one and have zero complaints. Sounds good and gets loud enough I can hear over my machines. Battery life is impressive as well.



Anker Soundcore Bluetooth Speaker with Loud Stereo Sound, Rich Bass, 24-Hour Playtime, 66 ft Bluetooth Range, Built-in Mic. Perfect Portable Wireless Speaker for iPhone, Samsung and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016XTADG2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Wo6MBbK5T480C

So I haven't tested this, but I THINK this should actually work for what you want. It does require you buying extra stuff though, and it's certainly not the most cost effective thing in the world either.

First off, you need to buy a 2-way headphone splitter. Plug the male end into the audio out on your Dot. Then buy two bluetooth transmitters that plug into audio ports (like this one or this one).

Those transmitters I linked are able to stream to two bluetooth receivers at once, meaning you can stream to all three of your speakers (and potentially upgrade to four later) just using two transmitters.

Then it's just a matter of pairing the transmitters with your speakers. Theoretically, Alexa should start playing through all of them at the same time if you set it up right. Again, not the most cost effective thing in the world, but it should work, assuming you're using the speakers within range of the transmitters anyways. The transmitters need electricity, so there will be wires regardless though. Sadly not much you can do about that as far as I'm aware.

Check these out. These devices stream music, and can also call, siri, and voice memos. This is an FM transmitter, but the music quality is quite superb, it is unlike any other device I've had experience with.

http://www.amazon.com/GOgroove-Transmitter-Hands-Free-Blackberry-Smartphones/dp/B000FV8P24/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1395774903&sr=1-2&keywords=go+groove

http://www.amazon.com/FlexSMART-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Hands-Free-Smartphones/dp/B003PPGOC0/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1395774903&sr=1-1&keywords=go+groove

I own the SMARTmini model, and I've had it for almost 2 years, and it has worked flawless for me.

Headsets and "gaming" headsets are marketed towards an audience that desire an all round product. this usually means that audio quality comes short. Paired with your price range there is not much to chose from. The go to recommendation if you really want audio quality is getting the best pair of headphones you can get for your burdget and pairing it with a mod mic like this one. Hope that helps!

I love my mouse. The only thing is that it is kinda heavier compared to other mouses. For headset, I would suggest getting something like an M40x and a modmic. This way, you'll get better sound and a better microphone. Unless you want a headset then I would say the Cloud II.

You can get a BT transmitter to add to the CD player, like this, for example. However, you may have better quality if you can use an aux connection. On the flip side, as this transmitter unit has aptX, so if your receiver accepts that protocol, the sound quality will be pretty good.

You can make contacts with just a standard “rubber duck” antenna and a cheapo Chinese radio. Checkout this video to See this in action. This radio is usually around $30 on Amazon.

Of course a better antenna will help tremendously. Better radio would help too. Depends on how deep you get into the hobby :-)

I have three of them and they're great.

Get the USB programming cable.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008RZJHJU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Don't bother with the software that comes with it. Just get CHiRP which is free and works well. I set all three of mine up with a basic configuration with FRS/GMRS stations programmed, all my local 2-meter stations, weather, etc. all sharing the same channel numbers so they can be used more or less as emergency radios.

I've swapped the antennas for this one. Im not sure which model you have, but they were a definite improvement over the stock rubber duck on my UV5R
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KC4PWQQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've also got a couple of these extended batteries:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ATTVKFQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Get a Baofung UV5R or similar from Amazon for about $30. It comes with a charger and if you set it up right it holds a charge for a good while. You will need a technician class licence from the FCC to transmit on it but it works great for hitting local repeaters on 2 meter and 70cm bands. I wouldn't bother with cb personally, the ham bands have further reach and repeater networks expand that across the state and even nationwide.


Edit to add:
BaoFeng UV-5R Dual Band Two Way Radio (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007H4VT7A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_B0svzb4DRCC35

Also, get the programming cable and download chirp software to set up the radio with your local channels. There's plenty of tutorials on YouTube etc.

Right now I am using some Astro A30's that I have had for a very long time.

I am going to be buying some new headphones for PC gaming and also watching movies/shows and listening to music.

I have done some reading and am 90% sold on the Beyerdynamic DT 770 Pro 80 ohm Studio Headphones

The amazon link has an amplifier bundle (+200$) and also a converter bundle (+42$)

I think I need a DAC for these cans, but need advice on which DAC to get.

Also, I wanted to get a V-Moda instead of a ModMic, is the V-Moda possible with these?

Please give me some adice. Thanks for your help.

I don't think $50 is going to get you anything ceiling-mounted and powerful enough to cover a regular classroom, even with the fanciest little speaker you can get at that price range. That said, if the projector has USB ports to keep it charged, I have good experiences with this model in terms of sound quality and volume:

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-SoundCore-Bluetooth-Dual-Driver-Distortion/dp/B016XTADG2

But once again, this isn't really a problem you can sufficiently fix for $50. We use these in a classroom setting:

https://www.amazon.com/Anchor-Audio-AN-130-Speaker-Monitor/dp/B000YYVVN2

They sell ceiling mount brackets for them as well and have excellent coverage. Just make sure you have accessible power plugs near the mounting tile.