Reddit mentions: The best hardness testing equipment
We found 41 Reddit comments discussing the best hardness testing equipment. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 13 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. Hardness Testing File Set
- Detects leaking gas in closed piping systems
- Semiconductor sensor detects methane and propane .Response time: less than 10 seconds Warm up time: less than 60 seconds
- Flexible stainless steel probe provides access to hard-to-reach areas
- Audible buzzer and a display panel with light-emitting diodes (LEDs) indicate presence and concentration of detected gas
- Automatic calibration at start-up helps ensure accuracy
Features:
2. Hach 145300 Total Hardness Test Kit, Model 5-B
Water hardness is caused almost entirely by calcium and magnesium ionsHardness increases soap consumptionHardness test kits include the inexpensive Models 5-B and 5-EP
Specs:
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.65 pounds |
4. Hach 2745250 Total Hardness Test Strips, 0-425 mg/L
Hardness increases soap consumption in laundries and causes scale in boilers0 - 425 ppm0 - 25 gpgContains 50 Strips
Specs:
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.0440924524 Pounds |
5. New Digital Shore Durometer Rubber Hardness Tester Meter LCD Display Type D
- Brand new in box,high quality
- With clear LCD display for easy to read
- Wide measuring range with high resolution
- Compact pocket size to take along
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.440924524 Pounds |
6. Gold Test Acid Kit 10K, 14K, 18K, 22K And Stone Tools
- Greenwillow Books
Features:
7. Hardness Tester Meter,Shore Type A/O/D Rubber Tire Durometer Hardness Tester Meter 0-100 (Type O)
Easy to use, accurate measurement, easy to carry, durable and stable, practical and strongThis rubber hardness tester is a measure of sulfur rubber and plastic products of hardness of the instrumentMade of alloy material,waterproof not rust,fine workmanship,durableThe connecting device is more conve...
Specs:
Height | 0 Inches |
Length | 0 Inches |
Weight | 0.4629707502 Pounds |
Width | 0 Inches |
8. Lead Test Kit in Paint, Dust, or Soil 5PK (5 Bus. Days) Schneider Labs
This SLGI Certified Test Kit is designed for the sample taking of 5 samples, either paint, dust, and/or soil, and analysis for lead concentration.Kit comes complete with all materials needed to retrieve up to 5 different samples to be sent to us at the Lab.Sampling materials, sample shipping, as wel...
Specs:
Height | 3.5 Inches |
Length | 6 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1 Count (Pack of 1) |
Weight | 0.002425084882 Pounds |
Width | 4.5 Inches |
9. MXBAOHENG Portable Rebound Leeb Hardness Tester Meter Durometer for Metal Steel HM-6560
Palm size for narrow space.Direct display of hardness scales HRB, HRC, HV, HB, HS,HL.Large memory could store 50 groups including single measured value, impact direction, material and hardness scale etc.User re-calibration function allowed.
10. Deluxe Hardness Pick Set and Mineral Identification Kit, in Wooden Case
- This set includes 8 Mohs' Hardness Points from Mohs' 2 through Mohs' 9, nicely mounted in nickel-plated Brass, color-coded, number-stamped, and double-ended Pin Vises, along with two Hardness Plates of Mohs' 3.5 and 5.5, a Streak Plate, a Magnet, and a 100x Sharpening Stone, enhanced by Instructions, Table of Minerals sorted by Mohs' Hardness, all neatly packaged in a compact, Wooden Case.
- This set includes 8 Mohs' Hardness Points from Mohs' 2 through Mohs' 9, nicely mounted in nickel-plated Brass, color-coded, number-stamped, and double-ended Pin Vises, along with two Hardness Plates of Mohs' 3.5 and 5.5, a Streak Plate, a Magnet, and a 100x Sharpening Stone, enhanced by Instructions, Table of Minerals sorted by Mohs' Hardness, all neatly packaged in a compact, Wooden Case.
- To perform a scratch test, select a numbered Hardness point, and try to scratch a flat, smooth surface of the mineral. For example, if the number 6 point scratches your mineral, but the number 5 point does not, then your mineral has a Mohs' Hardness value of about 5.5. This is an important mineral identifying criteria.
- The Hardness Points are made of Metals and Alloys of equivalent Mohs' Hardness as the mineral standards, so the points will not break off, and they can easily be re-sharpened, and ultimately replaced after many years. This beautiful and thoroughly conceived tool is made for the opposite of "planned obsolescence".
- This is a perfect tool for Rockhounds, Geologists, and Archaeologists, as well as for Schools as an educational tool.
- IMPORTANT: For Industrial users, instead, we highly recommend our especially configured Mohs' Hardness Test Kit. Just search Amazon using that keyword string.
Features:
11. Fowler Full Warranty 52-760-000-0 Hardness Tester File Set, 0.157" Diameter, 7" Length, Set of 6 Files
1 year warranty offered by Fowler High PrecisionSet of 6 hardness tester filesEasy to use and economical40 - 65 HRC, 392 - 865 HV rangeColor coded gripesIncludes fitted storage case with instructions and Vickers Conversion Chart
Specs:
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 0.157" Diameter, 7" Length |
Weight | 0.0440924524 Pounds |
12. Rex Gauge 1500 Type A Pocket Hardness Tester/Durometer; Type A
Product Type - Hardness TesterManufactured by Rex GaugeMade in United States
Specs:
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | March 2017 |
Weight | 0.14 Pounds |
🎓 Reddit experts on hardness testing equipment
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where hardness testing equipment are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
10 troy oz Johnson Matthey 1985 Statue of Liberty .999 silver round.
As of 07/27/2017 10:23pm CST the spot price of silver is $16.60
Therefore the asking price of the round is 166.00 USD.
Twenty years ago the highes price per oz for silver was 6.38 USD, meaning that the most your grandparents would have paid for that round was approximately $63.80 before inflation.
This value does not account for premium, which will be dictated by the rounds rarity and the general demand for it. Silver patina, called toning in this case, does not devalue silver. Removing patina from old silver rounds like this will destroy any premium and collectibility the round carries, however it will always be worth its weight in silver, cleaned or uncleaned.
If you want to sell it you are likely to get the best value by visiting /r/Pmsforsale. You can sell it to a gold & silver dealer or a pawn shop, however they're more than likely to buy well under the current price per oz.
Silver is a dimagnetic material, meaning that an applied magnetic field will create an induced magnetic field in the silver oriented in the opposite direction, causing a repulsive force. If you have a strong neodymium magnet and you try to stick it to the coin, you should feel a very slight resistance if it's real silver.
Silver purity can be tested with nitric acid. High purity silver will turn brown in solution with nitric acid. Sterling and lower will turn a bluish green in solution with nitric acid. Test kit available here.
While less reliable, you can test silver with the ping test. Pure silver will resonate harmonically, like a bell, when struck. Example here.
Visit /r/silverbugs if you want to learn more.
All three can be had for cheap from amazon, which is where I got all mine. Check out the links below... It's the setup I have for even cheaper than I paid (closer to $15). Acid is pretty standard and you can't really get "bad" acid (Gerry Garcia may say otheriwse). The scale has been awesome to me (the reviews on amazon are good too). The loupe is pretty cool and has been pretty helpful. It's just a magnifying glass. As such, it's hard to fuck up.
Acid Test Kit
Scale
Loupe
Judging by how the Shore scales overlap, you probably want to be using D anyway: http://www.imperialrubber.com/images/03-numerical-comparison-of-shore-scales-for-measuring-hardness.jpg You can always convert into another scale if you really want.
Here is the same meter that you found for less money and ships from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Durometer-Rubber-Hardness-Display/dp/B01ET0E2UA/
I would just buy that and try it out. The reviews you posted seemed mostly positive aside from one asshole who left one star because he's an idiot, one guy that got a defective unit, and another guy who said it isn't accurate (no idea what he was actually doing with it).
Buy it from Amazon and return it if it isn't working.
You aren't going to get exceedingly accurate readings with a device that isn't a piece of actual lab equipment. This is serious business. We're talking very precise tip geometries, forces/springs and measuring equipment (think micrometer or dial indicator). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shore_durometer
I would buy the cheap meter and then a calibration set: https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-64AAA590-Calibration-Included-Mahogany/dp/B007FFTUGI
You can determine a correlation between your readings and known values. Plot the three points in excel to generate a best fit line and equation, plug the values from the cheap meter in and bingo. You will still be under $250 and you can buy a the right used shore tester when it pops up on ebay.
Get a real hardness test first. Money well spent.
Hach 145300 Total Hardness Test Kit, Model 5-B https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008FM7WLU/
Then get a water softener. Put it after your filters. They are easy to install if you have done any plumbing work. I got this one, it’s great (edit: size your water softener based on your hardness test! I had 19 grains hardness. You want to run a week between regen, give or take, with a 20% buffer. 19 grains x 4 people x 75 gallons per day x 7 days x 1.20 buffer is 47,880. I got a 48,000 grain softener):
Metered water softener with 3/4" Fleck 5600SXT control, 48,000 grain capacity with by-pass valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GBZ2P6/
My water was quite hard, around 19 grains. The softener fixed that, but made it taste like mud.
So I got an RO system and plumbed it to my fridge only. That was easy too. Took me a couple hours total.
I got this one:
iSpring RCC7 High Capacity Under Sink 5-Stage Reverse Osmosis Drinking Water Filtration System and Ultimate Water Softener- WQA Gold Seal Certified https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XELTTG/
It’s been a trouble free year now with great tasting water. The showers are a bit slipprier, yes, but my kids are less itchy, and gross shit doesn’t grow over every water source in my house any more. Worth it.
Your best bet is to buy water testing strips off Amazon and test your water. Then adjust based on that. Don't just assume your Brita is doing enough. When you spend that much on an espresso machine ensure the water is good.
Test Strips
Water Quality Tester
Anti Scale Pouch
Edit: Formating
I ordered a hardness testing kit. When it gets in, I'll maybe post some results.
I normally use Rectorseal Calci-Free for flushing. Pretty sure that stuff is muriatic acid. In my opinion, it works better than vinegar. This last time around, I ran it through the heater for about 45 minutes. Probably should have run it longer.
If you can take this guy apart, please let me know how you did it.
I think you misunderstood my original statement - I only said that if the OP decided to have it polished that they should be on the lookout for any sort of hamon or evidence of differential hardening. That said, there are more smiths outside of Japan that have traditional polishing skills than you might realize. I can think of two off the top of my head that are in my state (Oregon) and have apprenticed under Japanese swordsmiths and become recognized master swordsmiths themselves, and one of them I know personally. I'm not sure what they would charge for polishing a wakizashi blade as shown above, but last I asked it was around $1000 per job.
That said, I'm still 95% certain that the tsuba is some form of sand cast iron as wrought iron would not exhibit that surface texture before or after corrosion from rusting. Wrought produces a banded structure as it rusts, not a pitted structure as was indicated in the photos.
It wouldn't take much in terms of specialized instrumentation to determine differential hardening due to a hamon. Either a RHC tester or a set of calibration files would give that answer readily. A good set of sampling files usually runs around $100.
As for monosteel vs tamahagane steel, I agree that it's hard to tell from the photos and the condition of the blade. I am inclined to think it is monosteel as the rusting patterns don't seem to follow any sort of grain structure that would be naturally present in forgewelded steel construction.
>When I took the blade out of the kiln it did have some carbon on it and it was not cherry red
What color was it?
Were you outside? had bright lighting on?
Color is not particularly reliable unless you have the experience to associate those colors with temperature. 'cherry red' in particular is just too vague. its not even consistent fruit to fruit, cherry red is just too subjective.
and if it hardened satisfactorily then the color isnt really relevent.
get yourself some hardness testing files, find out the facts, not what you think a blade should look like
I hope I answered everything well enough lol
https://www.amazon.com/Hach-145300-Total-Hardness-Model/dp/B008FM7WLU
if water it hard, try posting water softener info and pics to terry love water softener forums. smart group of guys there that know about varies valves, etc.
Why do you care?
But to answer your question, this kit can indicate the material hardness; ceramic is way harder than metal.
You could also test it's reactivity with acids, ceramic is pretty much inert.
it might not be wise to take that entire bar somewhere to be tested. if that's any type of precious metal, it's big enough to tempt others to steal it. humans have been murdering each other over shiny rocks for as long as anyone can remember. be safe, OP!
also, you can buy test kits online. here's the first silver test kit that came up on amazon, there are probably others also, if you just google "how to test silver" there are several ways involving magnets, ice, and other non-harmful tests. it would be worthwhile to slowly and closely examine the entire surface looking for any markings that might have faded/worn off, because any kind of metal should have a stamp/designation that proves what it is. if you do take it somewhere to get tested, do not take their offer to buy it, they will lowball you. good luck!
I think it's safe to use the Cafizza, but I would not use it more than weekly. As far as descaling, I think a lot has to do with the quality of your water. Do a hardness test. I use this one monthly, both for the water from the tap and what's coming through the tank filter. If you're <1 grain, you're probably OK not descaling. But of course, YMMV.
> Tl;dr: Worried my knife's steel tempering might have been messed up. Any way to test for sure?
Yes. Hardness testing file. E.g., https://www.amazon.com/Flexbar-Hardness-Testing-File-Set/dp/B001CTI7TE If the 50HRC file bites into the steel at the edge, the edge is softer than 50HRC, etc. Not very precise, but easy and, as far as hardness testing equipment goes, cheap.
this is the one i have:
Hardness Tester Meter,Shore Type A/O/D Rubber Tire Durometer Hardness Tester Meter 0-100 (Type O) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074SDNGYF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NYsNDb0BEG0Y2
it is very accurate surprisingly and has been really fun to poke all my toys with. it’s sadly not digital but i have come to like the sensitivity of the analog dial :3
There are a couple options in your budget, but the cheaper options won't be as precise or accurate. Might be good enough for what you need though.
https://www.amazon.com/Fowler-Warranty-52-760-000-0-Hardness-Diameter/dp/B00B5HQYAM
The other one I had in mind, I can't seem to find it. It uses a starrett center punch, and an optical tool to measure the diameter of the divot that's been punched. I'm sure you can find it with some more digging
Edit: Another option, dirt cheap, but you'll need some known samples that you can probably get from mcmaster: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qUpape0XgVs
There are maps like this, and you'll see mineral deposits where water evaporates like on pots and pans, or around the faucet. As well as test kits.
That's my thought too. Might be either to soft, or to hard (if it's to hard it takes a lot more effort to sharpen). What kind of stones are you using? Natural or diamond?
I know of a way to test hardness, there's special rockwell files. But sjeesh, $110...
This is the guy that I bought. Any good?
I bought this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0091GUNYM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apap_KgAV3nkiBSRaU
Haven't opened it yet, plan to when I'm done. If the results are off the charts, I might call someone. But I'm expecting to just do some light remediation myself. Cheers.
Yeah, a superhard boron-nitride coating on metal would make it bounce even higher. Regular optical grade glass would probably be similar as well.
Get one of these and just 'ping some stuff around your house to see how hard stuff is....
Like these.
https://www.amazon.com/Scale-Hardness-Collection-Diamond-pcs/dp/B00L9GENYI/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500510102&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=Mohs+hardness+testing+kit
https://www.amazon.com/Deluxe-Hardness-Mineral-Identification-Wooden/dp/B00Q26ODKY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500510102&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=Mohs+hardness+testing+kit
Once you get the softener working, you can check how well it's softening with these test strips: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007QQZL0U/. The resin that's in those tall tanks can eventually wear out and stop working that well, so I use the strips about once a month to keep track of how much water I use before the water starts getting hard.
This is the water hardness test kit we use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008FM7WLU/ . It's slightly more expensive than the test strips, but it's a lifetime supply.
You can get some clues from knowing the hardness of the material, using a hardness file set:
https://www.amazon.com/Flexbar-Hardness-Testing-File-Set/dp/B001CTI7TE
Rex Pocket Durometer
Used to test hardness on materials.
Use this, then:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0091GUNYM
My father used to work for the city water department and this is one of the ones they used regularly. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008FM7WLU/
You can do a test at home if all you are looking at is hardness. I've seen this recommended. If you are on municipal water there should be water quality reports available.
I’ll see if we get anywhere with the testing kit and actually turning the softener on. If it works, I’ll see about getting the other information you specified to see if it’s set close to where it should be.
Based on this test the hardness is 30 before running the softener.
We do have an iron filter in line ahead of the softener and the tank was just replaced a month ago or so due to it being close to full and a recommendation of the previous homeowner to replace it in 2015 (we found an old invoice for that).
For a couple bucks you can know if they are even silver at all. http://www.amazon.com/Silver-Testing-Acid-Liquid-Stone/dp/B004CNFUIS
There is no "common setting." You need to figure out how hard your water is. I'd recommend this kit since it's very accurate and not too expensive: https://www.amazon.com/Hach-145300-Total-Hardness-Model/dp/B008FM7WLU
Otherwise, your municipality probably has a water report that you can lookup online or request from them that might have hardness information.
If you just want the softener to work, set it to 50 and see if you end up with any hard water before it regenerates. If so, adjust up as needed. If not, adjust down until you find the right number. A higher number won't hurt anything, it will just waste salt.
You’d need a Rockwell hardness tester. Not cheap. Fowler Full Warranty 52-760-000-0 Hardness Tester File Set, 0.157" Diameter, 7" Length, Set of 6 Files https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B5HQYAM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zUUrDb9GVM9AR
You can put a hidden tang handle it won’t be easy but it’s possible. I wouldn’t bother with it
That seems suspicious to me. How was he going to level it?
Once the face is hardened, you need some pretty high end cutters to remove metal on a milling machine. Otherwise the cutter, not the anvil, will lose.
If he is skipping the mill and leveling it with a surface grinder, that suggests to me that he thinks it has been hardened.
Anyways, he should have access to a real hardness tester. If not a scientific rig, at least a set of these.
https://www.amazon.com/TTC-HTF-6S-PIECE-HARDNESS-TESTER/dp/B005701LAG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526341257&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=hardness+test+files&amp;dpID=617qYnT03XL&amp;preST=_SX342_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
It's very likely that he used a hardness testing file to decide if the piece had been hardened.
The files have different hardnesses so you start with the hardest one and go until the file no longer makes a mark which tells you how hard the piece is.
I doubt doing that would be very helpful.
What makes the SRAM ebike gear is 'ebike' is has wider ratios then typical cassette. So you can get the same range of speeds as a normal cassette, but with less shifting. It may be harder then normal cassettes, but that just means you'll blow through chains faster unless they are a matched pair.
If you want to eliminate the guesswork... You can do file tests to check the steel hardness. You don't need those special files though.. a regular file can tell you if the steel is hardened or not. A file will 'skate' over hard steel... were as with regular mild steel making deep marks is easy.
The problem is that bicycle drive trains are completely inadequate to handle the torque from DC motors. Throwing money at the problem isn't going to change the physical dimensions.
The reality is that cheap cassettes are the way to go because you are going to blow through them anyways. Usually more expensive in bicycle-land is just buying light weight. Light weight is the opposite what you want. You want as big and clunky and heavy as possible.
Even on children's motorized bikes they don't use 8-speed bicycle parts. They use 420 gears, which are the same pitch as bicycle gears, but significantly beefier.
Probably the best thing you can do is just to make sure that you replace your chain at the same time you replace your cassette.
A worn cassette will wear out a chain quickly. A worn out chain will wear out cassette quickly.
So always buying a new chain when you buy a new cassette will lead to longest life.
Remotely diagnosing "bad" tasting water is not easy, but not impossible. Lets err on the side of caution and assume that in a wealthy county of Texas you don't have a well contaminated with nasty stuff.
It sounds like you have what is called "hard" water. There could be other trace impurities too, such as sulphides or alkaline ions.
Hard water just means there are a lot of dissolved minerals, such as calcium and magnesium. You can purchase some filtration systems depending on the amount of water you want per day.
The main issue is you will get a lot of scale buildup in your pipes. That is bad, especially in a new build if you don't have a total house filtration system.
A simple test kit like this Hach unit will help you start to diagnose the problem.
Can you answer these questions and we will try to remotely diagnose your problem.