Reddit mentions: The best isolation transformers

/u/libvideoguy - congratulations on stepping out on your own! A few thoughts on your B&H list (Silver Panasonic G7, Rode VideoMic "Pro", Polsen VHF wireless mic, Benro S6 tripod, GoPro Hero 4 Session):

Camera and Tripod

The silver G7 is a great starter camera, but I would [get it for $597.99 with the 14-42 lens and a $100 gift card] (http://adorama.evyy.net/c/60286/51926/1036?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.adorama.com%2FIPCDMCG7SG.html) - and use the gift card to get a [$99.95 3Pod V3AH] (http://adorama.evyy.net/c/60286/51926/1036?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.adorama.com%2FFP3PV3AH.html). That will save you $299 over buying the Benro separately - which you can use to buy better mics.

Audio

I would avoid VHF wireless mics - I have a couple of them (from Azden and Audio Technica) and they have serious interference problems.

Instead, you might want to consider a [$179.95 Boya BY-WM6 UHF wireless setup] (http://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Omni-directional-Microphone-Continuous-Operation/dp/B01BY1IT24/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20).

Here is an in-depth test of the Boya's range and susceptibility to interference from nearby cell phones [starting at 4:20 in this video] (https://youtu.be/Cb39csJwR6I?t=4m20s) - this mic does a great job out to over 200 feet, which is pretty darned good for a UHF mic in this price class.

I would also avoid consumer mics with 3.5mm unbalanced outputs (such as the Rode VideoMic "Pro").

Instead , I recommend a battery powered pro XLR mic such as the [$229 Azden SGM-250 with a free hot shoe/shock mount] (http://www.amazon.com/Azden-SGM-250-Professional-Powered-Microphone/dp/B00XWG2YBW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) and a [$20.95 Hosa MIT-156 XLR to 3.5mm adapter/impedance matching transformer] (http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-MIT-156-Impedance-Transformer-XLR3F/dp/B00FC4YR58/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20).

I also recommend you invest in a [$38.99 mic boom] (http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PMKSB06-Microphone-Telescoping-Extending/dp/B011FOMA02/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) and 20 feet of [$5 XLR cable] (http://www.amazon.com/CBI-MLC20-Microphone-Cable-Foot/dp/B000VJJQUU/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) to get the mic off the camera and closer to your subjects.

With the addition of the GoPro, this setup will cost you $1270.88 - and give you more value for your money.

When budget permits, you should add a ~$200 [external preamplifier] (http://www.amazon.com/Saramonic-SR-AX107-Channel-Transformer-Adapter/dp/B00SSLCON4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) or a [external recorder] (http://www.amazon.com/TASCAM-DR-70D-4-Channel-Audio-Recorder/dp/B00OY6718K/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) plus a set of [high quality monitoring headphones] (http://www.amazon.com/Senal-SMH-1000-Closed-Back-Professional-Headphones/dp/B00ASWZO6U/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) to improve the quality of your sound.

You will also need to think about lighting.

But for now, this setup should get you started.

Hope this is helpful and good luck!

First things first, we need to know the actual product you're using. There is no "Ring Pro 2." There is either the Ring Video Doorbell 2 or the Ring Video Doorbell Pro.

They have vastly different power requirements, and one will be doable without much modification and a basic transformer and chime swap (the 2), and the other will be complicated and require modifications, possibly an electrician, and a way to cover them (the Pro).

If it's the 2, you can install a Nutone C915 16VAC@10VA transformer in the box where the AC power comes in (the Nicor box is split into two halves, high and low voltage). Be sure the breaker that powers the doorbell is off first. Then the wires just get swapped like for like to the wires on the back of the new transformer: black to black, white to white, green to green/bare. That would connect to the back of the transformer and it would screw into the high voltage side of the Nicor box.

Then, with the wires leading to the button, you would connect one of them (doesn't matter which) to one of the transformer yellow wires (again it doesn't matter which) with a wire nut and tuck it into the low voltage side of the Nicor box. Then you'll have one button wire and one transformer wire left, and those get connected to a basic mechanical chime. Connect the yellow transformer wire to the trans terminal on the chime, and the other button wire to the front terminal on the chime. Then you mount the chime over the whole Nicor box and new transformer, covering it up, being careful to ensure the yellow wires don't get pinched where they run from the front of the transformer over to the other side of the Nicor box. All the mechanical chimes (per brand) are the same inside, and generally all that's different is the cover. You may need a slightly more expensive chime with a larger cover to completely cover up the transformer and dual box of the Nicor. I recommend going with a Nutone (or Braun, it's the same company) for the chime too. Avoid Hampton Bay and Heath/Zenith, as they're low quality and fail frequently and tend to hum while the battery in the doorbell is charging.

If it's a Doorbell Pro, well, it's not going to be easy. It can't go there and meet code still. The 16VAC@30VA transformer that the Pro requires is way too big for the Nicor box and can't just be mounted in the wall. It would need to be wired somewhere else that meets code and new wires run from it to the existing Nicor location. Not fun or easy or cheap. There are two other options for powering the Pro, though with either you would have no mechanical chime, so you'd have to use a Ring Chime (or Echo devices or the Ring app alerts) to have any sort of notifications at all.

Option 1: Ring sells on their website, not on Amazon, a plug-in transformer for the Pro. It cannot be lengthened or connected to other wiring, you plug it in and run the wire to the Pro, but this will require drilling somewhere to get the wire to the Pro.

Option 2: Replace the Nicor high voltage side with an electrical outlet and buy a cover plate with one blank side (like this) and [one of these plug-in https://smile.amazon.com/MG-ELECTRONICS-MGT1640-TRANSFORMER-40AH/dp/B001DPNQ0M/). You'll also need about 12" of 18ga SOLID NOT STRANDED bell wire. It can be more than 2-stranded if you use thermostat wire, for example, which generally has a sheath on the cable but comes with 2-6 wires depending. Sheathed cable will look better, and if you can find white, even better. Your local home center should have it. You can use just bell wire too, which is generally just two wires twisted together and are different colors, but the sheathed cable will look better. Your local home center will have a variety but make sure it's solid core and 18ga.

You mount the outlet into the high voltage side of the Nicor box. Drill a hole in the blank side of the cover place where it looks nice and is big enough to pass through the wire you're using. Strip both ends of the bell wire to about a half inch. Do the same with the button wires. Attach one of the leads of the wire you're using to one of the button wires with a wire nut. Next take the Pro Power Kit v2 and peel off the tape to expose the bypass mode holes on the long edge opposite the two black wires. (You won't use those black wires. Just leave them there.) Take the other button wire and push it into one of the bypass holes on the power kit and make sure it goes in all the way and tug on it to make sure it's seated and the clamp is biting into the wire. Do the same with the other conductor of the bell wire—insert it into the other bypass hole. Now pass the bell wire through the hole you drilled in the wall plate, and drop the Pro power kit and wiring into the low voltage side of the Nicor box, and affix the cover plate over the outlet and empty space. Connect the bell wire to each of the two outer terminals on the transformer (again doesn't matter which is which, just use the outer terminals if you happen to get a 3-screw model) and tighten the screws. You'll need to remove the screw meant to hold it in place, since your outlet won't have that hole. The orange washer just pulls off and the screw comes right out. Then plug it in, turn on the breaker, wait for the Pro to charge up and indicate it's ready for setup and begin setting it up. Once you know it works, I'd recommend a strip of 3M command adhesive behind the transformer just so it can't fall out since it's heavy and you can't use the mounting screw on that style outlet.

OK, that about covers it, if any of that makes sense to you.

Hi /u/gentlemen2bed - I would not get either a camcorder or a DSLR. With an £800 budget, if you want to produce videos like this:

Travel Video

http://vimeo.com/88543042

http://vimeo.com/86145944 (shot with a power zoom lens)

Short Documentary

http://vimeo.com/73561266

http://vimeo.com/87978429

http://vimeo.com/78507820

Music Video

http://vimeo.com/88584840

http://vimeo.com/84436275

Slow Motion/Sport

http://vimeo.com/76503135



...I recommend you get a [£349.99 (body only) Panasonic DMC-G6 DSLM (mirrorless) camera] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=321361307155&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229508&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg), with a [£177 14-42 Power Zoom lens] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=331159594681&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229508&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg). All of the videos above were shot with this camera.

The G6 has a large sensor and interchangeable lenses like a DSLR - but it also has a built-in electronic viewfinder, fast video autofocus and is compatible with power zoom lenses, like a camcorder.

It also has manual audio gain control and on-screen LED meters for sound. You can plug professional XLR mics like this [£159 Rode NTG2] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00093ESSI/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B00093ESSI&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerevo-21) into it with a [£22 Hosa MIT-156 XLR to 3.5mm transformer/adapter] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00FC4YR58/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B00FC4YR58&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerevo-21) and a [£16 Polaroid shock mount] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B008D5HW4G/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B008D5HW4G&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerevo-21).

I started out shooting video with camcorders and DSLRs, but I have given them up for Panasonic DSLM cameras. They really are the best of both worlds.

Hope this is helpful!

Bill

I have no idea if this is the right place to ask, so I waited until this thread to ask it, It's a silly question but if anyone can help I would greatly appreciate it. We will be attending a convention coming up and may need to take some relatively quick camera interviews, for a camera we use a phone to shoot in 4K which is more than capable for these interviews, however the audio is quite bad and loud in the environment. My question is: Could we use this Microphone http://amzn.com/B0002KZAKS connected to this http://amzn.com/B00FC4YR58 (Going into a Mono to Stereo converter) and record interviews directly to the phone this way? In theory it seems it would work, but I honestly am not sure which is why I am here. These interviews really aren't important enough to go the extra mile and use something like a Zoom H4N. Any help would be greatly appreciated, even though I know this is a bad question. Thank you.

Hello /u/reypro - with your budget, I would get a Panasonic FZ200 and a top mounted professional shotgun mic. If you can get close enough to your subjects, you should be able to hear what they are saying.

Here's a list of the equipment you would need:

• [Panasonic DMC-FZ200 - £340] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B008N8NXT6/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B008N8NXT6&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerevo-21). This camera has a constant f2.8 lens, so it is good in low light, a larger sensor than most camcorders and a 2.5mm microphone input jack. Here is what it can do in a studio setting:
  
  http://youtu.be/98QV1eN5rhQ
  
  
• [Rode NTG-2 professional shotgun microphone - £129] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00093ESSI/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B00093ESSI&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerevo-21). You will also need a single AA battery. This mic does a pretty good job of picking up sound in a noisy environment, as demonstrated here (in Spanish, please select CC for subtitles): http://youtu.be/vhHN6F-pPFY
  
  
• [Hosa MIT-156 line matching transformer/XLR to 3.5mm adapter - £23] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00FC4YR58/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B00FC4YR58&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerevo-21)
  
  
• [Hosa GMP-467 3.5mm to 2.5mm adapter - £2.42] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000QU3JN4/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B000QU3JN4&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerevo-21)
  
  
• [Shock mount to attach the mic to your camera while minimising handling noise - £10.29] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00KXQIY86/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B00KXQIY86&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerevo-21)
  
  If you set the camera to "iA" (Panasonic's automatic mode), you should have a simple, autofocusing camera with a power zoom that even a novice can use to produce usable video and sound.
  
  Hope this is helpful and good luck with your interviews!

I'll add that in addition to a photo of the antenna, also a close-up of where the balun is connected would be useful to see. My first thought is that the attachment of it to the antenna isn't ideal. Perhaps new stove bolts and washers would be better in that location?

Also, what balun? If at all possible, try to find and use one that has solid wire pigtails, versus crimped on ones. Granted, there not easy to find. Here's an example: https://www.amazon.com/AXIS-RSE-E106-Rse-E106-Outdoor-Transformer/dp/B002FYQAR6/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=axis+transformer&qid=1558737069&s=electronics&sr=1-2 (I luckily found a couple similar to this at a local electronics store.)

Cheers! Statmanmi

Corner cutting... Not a severe hazard with LV wiring, but just kind of a cruddy thing to do. Older furnace?

I'm using a 24VAC 40VA transformer for my hello, and it's the only thing on the wire.

Honestly, I'd probably get a more powerful transformer. They're relatively inexpensive. If you have experience working with 120VAC, you can get very inexpensive transformers. If not, or you don't want to mess with it, you can get plug-in transformers for a bit more that have the same little screw terminals, and you can just move the wire, assuming there's an outlet near enough to reach.

I got mine on amazon for $20, they're cheaper than that now.
Here's the link to the one I got, but there are lots of options...

https://www.amazon.com/Class-II-Transformer-Approved-MGT-2440/dp/B004VMVDTA/

EDIT: And just to add:

I had a lower power 16vac transformer originally (slightly above minimum spec for the Hello, and had problems with the Nest -- Chime wouldn't work, and would buzz instead of ding.) The chimes themselves have a pretty good power draw, so often the minimum spec for the Hello not enough (or barely enough) unless you're not using a chime on the circuit.

Hey, wow didn't even know about inbox replies. Appreciate it

I purchased the same 24v relay but with the ground: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VMVDTA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And this ice cube relay:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PZXGHZY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used your wiring scheme and it worked fine (then I unplugged and let die) but I was just testing without it hooked to my HVAC system and was able to get the relay to engage. Now after plugging back in I am getting a variety of wiring errors and the nest restarting.

Let me know if you think it is diagnosable or should provide more info. Appreciate the help.

Talk to them, but I'm pretty sure you've got two choices; buy the PEK kit, or use a dedicated 24v transformer supplied by line voltage:

https://ecobee.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/227874487-ecobee3-Conventional-HVAC-1Heat-1Cool-with-no-C-wire

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VMVDTA

Sounds fun, If you're making it for insertion I would recommend using a rechargeable version to avoid electrocution. If you insist on using the plug in version, please use an isolation transformer like:
https://smile.amazon.com/Precision-1604A-Single-Isolation-Transformer/dp/B000LDLF3M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1483242798&sr=8-3&keywords=isolation+transformer
There are some ways you can make your own isolation transformer for much less $$$, but if you don't know what you're doing buy that one.
At a very minimum use a GFCI that you have tested before use.

The rectum (and all mucus membranes) are much more effective electrical conductors than skin, and thus make electrocution massively easier.

I recently did this for a 4 story - 3 family house I purchased.
ISP service comes in from the 2nd floor balcony so I put boxes outside, one with coax, the other with fiber. and ran a pair of each inside the walls to a central location for each apartment and inside a media enclosure which I also ran power to. From there I branched out to each bedroom and to the living room and dining room with 1 coax and 2 cat 6. I used smurf tube in areas and I also use metal protectors over the stud where the cable was run through to avoid anything piercing the cables in the future. I had a hard time getting any useful info from Verizon regarding fiber type so I ordered service and then they were tremendously helpful. They gave me four roles of fiber and drilled holes and offered advice. The verizon tech had just done the same thing in his own house. Good luck!

​

https://imgur.com/a/jBs5q2J

​

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IYXBKS6/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_pYMPCbQS0ETE4

​

I have a heat only system as well. My old thermostat only used two wires. I called ecobee and we were trying to get 24v power to the ecobee. I ended up buying a transformer from Amazon and used the power from there.

External Transformer plug into power supply wires coming from this adapter connect to RC and C terminal and thermostat wire R wire to RH terminal and W wire w1 terminal.

This is the transformer I went with bc it woukd be easier for me.

MG ELECTRONICS MGT2420 TRANSFORMER,24VAC 20VA UL APPROVED https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010GR07O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6YxeAbX9XCVRH

OK, do you have easy access to the boiler 24vac transformer? If not, you need to buy a plug-in like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Class-II-Transformer-Approved-MGT-2440/dp/B004VMVDTA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523549249&sr=8-1&keywords=plug+in+24vac+transformer
The new wiring scheme will be this: Receiver Red connect to current boiler Red terminal. Receiver White connect to current boiler White terminal. Disconnect current boiler Red wire and connect to boiler or plug-in transformer R. Disconnect current boiler White wire and connect to Receiver Purple. Connect Receiver Black to boiler or plugin-transformer Common terminal. Don't touch AC Red, Yellow, Green on the AC/Boiler side. Now go to the thermostat side. Connect Red from AC to Ecobee Rc. Connect Sender Purple to old Boiler White. Connect Sender White to ecobee W1. Connect Sender Black to ecobee C. Connect AC Y to ecobee Y1. Connect AC G to ecobee G. Connect old boiler Red wire to ecobee Rh.

Ok - the following should help you get your thermostat installed:

• You need an external transformer to power the ecobee3. I have used this specific model:
  Elk TRG2440 successfully with ecobee Smart Si and ecobee3 thermostats.
  
• Connect the output from the transformer to Rc and C terminals on the ecobee.
  
• Connect one of the wires from your boiler's control interface to Rh and the other to W. Configure the ecobee3 to ignore Rh.
  
• Basically, follow the instructions in this Amazon review
  

Really hard to say. Depends on the source and nature of the noise. Best, of course, would be to find what is pissing in the pool and fix it. It could be that a "conditioner" will help, but those are usually just churched-up voltage regulators. What needs to happen is you need to magnetically isolate each element of your power (hot, neutral.. you've already lifted the ground) to see where the noise is coming from.

Also, as you should know, if the speaker requires a safety ground, then you shouldn't run without it. Lifting AC grounds for troubleshooting is fine, but you shouldn't run that way.

Edit:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006HPFH/ref=asc_df_B00006HPFH5139298/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B00006HPFH&linkCode=df0&hvadid=194017009123&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10338180432329554974&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019608&hvtargid=pla-311461649184

People seem to like this transformer as a replacement option. Check out reviews. Hope it helps.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K2EC7K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hi...follow-up question on the same subject. previously I successfully setup an ecobee Tstat on a boiler that has T/T connections using a transformer and the relay. It is working fine with no problems. I would like to replace 2 other basic Tstats with Ecobees on the same boiler (3 zone boiler). I completely understand that they would each need their own relay, and that you are suggesting that 2 can run off the same transformer. Do you think the same transformer can run 3 ecobees? What, if any are factors that would affect this? This is the transformer I am using: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HPJT7C0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Thanks in advance!

Is there any way you can just power it with a separate transformer like this one?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007N5LJK

That’s what I’m doing with two of my four ecobees and they’ve been great.

3. Yes, if you don't need that kind of tracking then that's good.
   
   
4. Are the trains DCC? Or are they controlled through zones?
   
   I would recommend opto-isolators over transistors. They often come in nice boards like this and provide electrical isolation in addition to the ability to control. 40mA should be within most 24V opto's limit but you'd have to check.

Worse case you can install a second transformer. It's like $10 for the transformer and like $2-5 for the doorbell wire


Edit: you can even get something like this to make it even easier for you to install. It connects right to an outlet. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010PKVMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_SVjAybR23EBCR

It looks like your best bet to power the Ecobee is to buy one of these or similar. It won't be the best cosmetic solution, but it will function well.

Any recommendations on brand? It looks like Amazon has some 24v 40va . I do have a mechanical chime. I installed one that was on rings approved chime list.

Honeywell AT140A1000 40Va, 120V Transformer - 60 Hz.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K2EC7K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1RY-zb9XPR2M7

Are you thinking it's a ground loop that can be resolved by something like this, or are you thinking something more like this?

If you're super worried you could try some of the suggestions in this thread, or get a protector thing like this or any of the "usb ground loop" things on Amazon.

Well I'm an asshole. I didn't look, just did a google search and sent the link. That's a 24V thermostat. There was something in the description about the SYSTEM being 110V, which is why google picked it up.

Anyways, it looks like Honeywell's got a pretty limited selection that has the WiFi capability you need. So how about this:

https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Power-HPT2450-24VAC-transformer/dp/B004HN3OEK

Transformer input: 120VAC, 60 Hz (standard US)

Transformer output: 24VAC, 25VA

"VAC" means Volts AC. This transformer outputs AC current, not DC. "VA" is Volt-Amps, which is basically the power output.

Here's one on Amazon that would probably work:

http://www.amazon.com/Class-II-Transformer-Approved-MGT-2440/dp/B004VMVDTA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1462551934&sr=8-5&keywords=ac+transformer+24v

It's a bit of overkill at 40VA, but like I said, I think it would work just fine.

I know the Fast Stat is supposed to work, but I haven't tried it. This is what I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0007N5LJK/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1503173866&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=24+vac+transformer&dpPl=1&dpID=51lPbJGbTOL&ref=plSrch

Think of it as a power brick for the Ecobee. But you also need electrical wire to go between the transformer and the Ecobee. I was lucky enough to be able to run the wire into the basement and plug it into an outlet, so that it's not ugly by the Ecobee.

Mine is wired in directly using this

Works perfect for me and registers a solid power rating in the app.

> Is it safe to run extention cords to the actual grounded outlets instead?

Safer IMO.

> Now the issue is that I have AC units as well as all my entertainment systems all plugged on that one ungrounded circuit (closest outlets to the devices).

Couldn't be worse.

The A/C units have those GFCI plugs, right?

Worry more about the TV stuff. You could lose the lot.

A GFCI will not protect your electronics. Neither will the best surge protector. If you can't get a proper grounded outlet, your next best option is an isolation transformer. You'll need the next size up from your load: 300W computer, 60W monitor, use a 500 W (or VA) isolation transformer. Won't hurt to plug it into a surge suppressor.

Example: PHC ISO-500 500 Watts AC Isolation Transformer

Note that a Step Up / Step Down Voltage Transformer will NOT help.

If you are only using the 5V/ less the computer has a reset-able fuse( arduinos also have another one built in) that will protect from short circuits if you are still really concerned I use this to protect my computer from the Arduino when it handles high voltage : HiLetgo ADUM3160 B0505S 1500V USB to USB Voltage Isolator Module Support 12Mbps 1.5Mbps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07235PR4V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NZWGAb9M6RGAF

This is the transformer I used: MG ELECTRONICS MGT2420 TRANSFORMER,24VAC 20VA UL APPROVED https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010GR07O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_mxnesFLaQ7Kdh

You might want to look into install these.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IYXBKS6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1502943936&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=leviton+network&dpPl=1&dpID=41SiuXAsyKL&ref=plSrch

Might help you out with cable management. They also sell accessories to mount and power devices inside.

Also, run mutliple cat5e cable to different walls within the same room. You never know when you want move stuff around.

Lable and color code them.

Ask your builder if he can install some type of network interface hub for outside. That way your fiber/phone/satellite installer will not have to use his drill.

Best of luck to you.

Pay attention to all the posts about the "C" (common) wire. All the smart thermostats need it. It provides 24v AC to the 'stat.

Nest has a kit that lets you rob some voltage from another wire, but as you'll read, it is not a perfect system for many installations.

Friend of mine had no common wire. He used one of these as a work around:

https://www.amazon.com/Class-II-Transformer-Approved-MGT-2440/dp/B004VMVDTA

I got a 24v, mainly because I have an older home and this had the best reviews for non-grounded. I've had good performance and no complaints, I say get the 24v to future proof yourself.

You have 2 problems:

It's potentially very unsafe to run a 230-volt appliance designed for one conductor to be grounded on US 240-volt, center-nuetral power. Both conductors in the US system will be hot, so you might end up energizing the case/body of the welder.

The Aus welder is designed to run at 50Hz. Running at 60Hz will be less efficient, and the transformer will likely overheat. In the very least, your cycle time will be reduced.

The only safe way to run this is through an isolation transformer. The cheapest route I can find for your application is this device, which will cost you about $80. It plugs into a standard 120-volt outlet, and the welder would plug into it.

Hi there. Can someone give me a hand with this noob problem I have?

I was toying with the idea of making a few tutorials for Youtube.
Being on a very tight budget, I looked up an affordable mic that could still provide a decent audio and found the Behringer XM-8500.

I can get an XRL/XRL cable from a friend, so my plan was to simply buy an XRL to 1/8" adapter and connect the thing directly into my computer. However, I read somewhere that I can't just do that. It would result in terrible audio quality. Something about impedance and latency (this is Greek to me).

I googled a few things and also read that a cheap external USB card like this one solves the problem. Then found out that it does not.
Then, someone said that what I actually need is a transformer like this one. Another dude said that I should go with a USB audio interface.
I was considering getting a USB interface, but since it's gonna be a cheap one, I must assure that it doesn't miss the feature I need (I GUESS it's the conversion of analog to digital signal, but idk anything).

Would anyone be so kind to tell me what I need in order to have a decent audio in this scenario so that the listener doesn't run away out of cringe?

Sorry if I made this unnecessarily lengthy.

Crunching points to something in the amp being off, but hiss/hum could be a ground loop issue with your house's wiring, especially with nothing plugged in. If an amp tech can't find anything wrong with the amp, it may be worth investing in an isolation transformer like this: http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Isolation-Transformer-Outlet/dp/B00006HPFH

Thanks for writing, Spooky. What I mean is closer to the former and here's an example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IYXBKS6/?ref=idea_lv_dp_vv_d

something like this? what wattage do i need? https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Isolation-Transformer-Outlet/dp/B00006HPFH

I am wondering if something like this would help: https://www.amazon.com/Isolator-Protection-Isolation-ADUM4160-ADUM3160/dp/B06XB9YBHJ/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=usb+ground+loop&qid=1562011641&s=gateway&sr=8-4

​

From this subreddit: https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/aup22m/how_do_you_deal_with_esd/

I have this 2kW transformer http://www.amazon.co.jp/カシムラ-アップ-ダウントランス-220V~240Ｖ-2000W/dp/B000WMK6TG
I bought it about 6 years ago from a rakuten shop, cost 30,000. I use it for few different things and it has worked fine. I went for this one as it can transform in both directions, so could be useful for using Japanese appliances back home, if I ever escape.

A step down only transformer ( ダウントランス ) should be a bit cheaper, but probably looking at 20,000 for 2kW.

Class II Transformer - 24 Volt AC, 40 VA, UL/CSA Approved : MGT-2440 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VMVDTA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uokhDb4N2QHDY

I would just buy a wall wart style like this

Was it just a 24v wall transformer, something like https://www.amazon.com/Class-II-Transformer-Approved-MGT-2440/dp/B004VMVDTA ?

something like https://www.amazon.com/5PCS-Audio-1300-Transformateur-Transformador/dp/B073RJT7DK
or https://www.amazon.com/10Pcs-Audio-Transformers-600-Transformer/dp/B075R2PF4R
depending on how things drive
just dont ground either of the speaker lines on a midland or motorola commercial radio

24 for sure.

AT140A1000 40Va, 120V Transformer - 60 Hz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K2EC7K/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_YyYCDb3M4117C

or plugin...

Elk TRG2440 24VAC, 40 VA AC Transformer with PTC Fuse https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007N5LJK/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_BxYCDbVTETP7B

This needs a 24-volt (not 24w) AC power supply. You will need a matching connector, but this transformer should work just fine.

Actually, most recommended transformers are around 45VA: https://www.amazon.com/ELK-TRG1640-AC-Transformer-16-5VAC/dp/B0010PKVMQ

Amazon not affiliate link


I wonder if that would work.


The Amazon search that wasn't just USB hubs.

Yes.

On the Ecobee
AC wires: RC, Y and G
Heat Wires: RH, W

Now here is where it get's tricky, you need a common wire. You have three possibilities to get it depending on your setup.

1. You have an extra wire coming from your A/C's air handler to your thermostat and a C terminal to connect it to on the A/C end.
   
   
2. You DO NOT have an extra wire to use as a C wire but you DO have a C terminal you could use on the A/C end. You will be able to use the adapter that comes with the Ecobee to get the C wire on the thermostat end.
   
   
3. You need a 24vAC transformer. Either a wall adapter or a box mount one And you would wirenut the hot side to RH and insert the common (neutral) side to C.

OP, you want this:


http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Isolation-Transformer-Outlet/dp/B00006HPFH/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1458363294&sr=8-3&keywords=isolation+transformer


I had one and stupidly left it when I moved. Why I left it, I have no fucking idea but I should have kept it.


Also, get a proper UPS that does AVR like this one which is relatively cheap: http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-1500VA-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458363419&sr=8-1&keywords=cyberpower+ups


You should wire these like this:


Outlet <--> Isolation Transformer <--> UPS/Surge <--> devices.

step down transformer

Instructions from an Amazon reviewer:

• Connecting the transfer I did the following:
  
  
• 1 wire from transformer to Rc
  
  
• Other wire from transformer to C
  
  
• Nothing connected to transformer Ground
  
  
• The HVAC Red lead to Rh
  
  
• and the rest I connected to their proper colors.

Well I am not sure its line noise. It could be a noisy power supply disrupting the radio signal.

One of these might help if it is line noise causing the trouble:
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Isolation-Transformer-Outlet/dp/B00006HPFH

For my doorbell, this is the one I use.

https://www.amazon.com/Elk-TRG2440-24VAC-Transformer-Fuse/dp/B0007N5LJK/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=ELK+TRG2440&qid=1565195451&s=gateway&sr=8-8

I picked up one of these.

Elk TRG2440 24VAC, 40 VA AC... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007N5LJK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This one is plastic if you’ll be needing it for RF gear: Leviton 49605-30W RF-Transparent Structured Media Enclosure for Wireless Home Networks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IYXBKS6/

If you have an outlet near your thermostat wiring, you can bring 24v AC to it with a transformer:

https://www.amazon.com/Class-II-Transformer-Approved-MGT-2440/dp/B004VMVDTA

Do you know if this would work?

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0010PKVMQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is what I use with my Ring Doorbell Pro

I actually ended up getting it to work with this.

This is the transformer I put in:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K2EC7K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Delivers 24vac.

I would guess it's electrical/grounding.

Plug laptop into an isolation transformer and not directly into a wall socket and that might remove any hum: https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Isolation-Transformer-Outlet/dp/B00006HPFH

Or maybe try to get an external DAC, and connect that DAC to the laptop via optical cable rather than USB - optical cable isn't electrical so wouldn't transmit any grounding hum or anything like that.

You could try using a USB isolator.

https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-ADUM3160-Voltage-Isolator-Support/dp/B07235PR4V/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1518380541&sr=8-4&keywords=usb+isolator

I’ve done this for 5 years with 7 apartments.

• Ring Pro
  
  
• Transformer
  
  
• 22ga wire
  
  
• Duck brand tape in a color that matches your door frame
  
  Duck brand tape is not overly strong, does not leave residue when removed. Rip two strips and affix them vertically to the side of the ring, then tape the wired doorbell to your door frame on the hinge side of the frame. Run the wire through the hinge side of the door. Wire goes into transformer, plug into wall near door.

I recommend going to a 24V-30VA or a 24V-40VA transformer to avoid any problems.

Amazon link:

Honeywell AT140A1000 40Va, 120V Transformer - 60 Hz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K2EC7K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_iVwMBbFHRZPVD

If this doesn't solve the issue, then it is the speakers themselves that are bad in some way, or whatever interface they are plugged into (be it a DAC, computer, etc).

Edit: I noticed my post is worded with a poor tone. I'm not actually 100% sure that this is the issue, I just have a pretty strong sense that it probably is. I am not an electrician, though.

No, use a "wall wart" style plug made for doorbells and alarms, 16V 40VA
Like this: ELK TRG1640 AC Transformer 16.5VAC, 45 VA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010PKVMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Y1mpDbKYCSYJX

This is how you get power to your Ecobee:

https://www.amazon.com/Class-II-Transformer-Approved-MGT-2440/dp/B004VMVDTA

You can leave the rest of the wiring alone.

I added a C wire (using the excellent Fast-Stat CommonMaker) after receiving the E195 error but continued to see the error. It's important to note that I was reading a solid 24 v on the R wire at this point. I then learned, after extensive research, that the transformer on my boiler was not sufficient to power both my boiler electronics and the Nest. So I then purchased an external transformer and wired that into the CommonMaker in my furnace room and voila - problem solved.

Those terminals are a low voltage output. With a tiny transformer like that, very low current. What is it, 24VAC?

This is a newer and bigger one, terminals are still exposed.

https://www.amazon.com/MG-ELECTRONICS-MGT2420-TRANSFORMER-APPROVED/dp/B0010GR07O

No reason it wouldn't work - the specs are correct. If it was me I would get this instead since it goes up to 45VA.

You can't connect these straight to the Ring without a doorbell inline or the power pro cable however.

There are isolation transformers for 120V AC. It might be overkill, but it would most likely solve your problem.

http://www.amazon.ca/Tripp-Lite-IS-250-Isolation-Transformer/dp/B00006HPFH

Just bought one of these https://www.amazon.com/Class-II-Transformer-Approved-MGT-2440/dp/B004VMVDTA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1481043700&sr=8-4&keywords=class+2+transformer

And bought some new thermostat wire - https://www.amazon.com/Coleman-Cable-Thermostat-18-Gauge-5-Conductor/dp/B0026H8L7E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481044119&sr=8-2&keywords=thermostat+wire+18+5

I split the thermostat cable so that I could run two of the wires to where I plugged the transformer in, near my furnace, connected two new wires to the furnace and then used the old thermostat wire to run the whole new wire up to the thermostat location. Of course you could just leave your existing wires in place and only run the new wires for the transformer... but I found using the old wire and pulling it through was the only way I could run the new wire anyway.

Then connect the wires... I forget which terminals I've used, will have to look tonight when I get home.

12V power brick with car lighter out ~ $13

50 Hz 110 V inverter ~ $12

120V→24 V tranformer ~ $12

Plus you'll need to wire that shit together somehow. Also it's probably going to generate crazy amounts of interference. But it'll work, more or less.

edit: it's probably a waste of time, you'd need to know more about what that thing expects.

Lots of good information here, I appreciate it.

I'll check outside tomorrow and see if i can find anything leading to the ground. The only thing I saw last time was two metal cables which were bolted down to the pipe system near the water heater/furnace, and that's in the basement, but I didn't look outside.

The isolation transformer I've been using is this Tripp Lite IS250. It did literally nothing, or if it is, it's not discernible to me.

I've tried plugging just the amp, sans cables/pedals/guitars into the power outlets and it still makes the noise. It's relative to the master/gain/volume switches, so when you turn them up the noise gets worse. And worse again on the dirty channel. Strangely enough I did attempt to lift the ground just to test it on one of the amps and it made a slight difference, the other two it made no difference.