(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best lab chemicals

No problem. Yes I would imagine modified citrus pectin is far superior to IP-6. IP-6 is like tannic acid from acorns, it's other name is phytic acid, it's a weak acid chelator like vitamin C, malic acid and so on. It may help but it's not going to do the job by itself. If you wanted something other than edta and modified citrus pectin and garlic then I'd go with vitamin C and try and go with a higher dose, preferably something buffered like sodium ascorbate and 4+ grams at least twice a day but 3 would be best. Or if money isn't an issue vitality C, it's probably the best form of vitamin C on the market, can take higher doses without bowel upset, higher absorption and utilization than liposomal even, keeps blood levels high for 10 hours, liposomal is around 4 and plain sodium ascorbate is around 3. So with vitality C you keep blood levels high easily for 24 hours a day just taking it morning and night, dissolves very well and doesn't taste like salty water like sodium ascorbate but is slightly sweet. Very good product if you can afford it. Succinic acid is also another option after vitamin C and over IP-6, it's also a chelator but like vitamin C has a huge host of benefits, largely it is involved with energy production in the body and does many of things COQ10 does and more. The body already makes it. It's also quite cheap. It's also amazing for plant growth/health along with GABA.This is the one I use, it's food grade. I fill 00 capsules and take 1-2 a day. So a person could just take a quarter teaspoon of the powder which is around a gram. Can do less or more. It's like citric acid, slightly sour.
Haven't looked into ketogenic diet sorry no clue. Yes IR sauna is highly very effective and worth getting you can get pop up IR saunas to sit in for around 150 USD on amazon. I've had one that is still going strong for around 4 years now. I try to do it at least once a week. It usually takes around a hour and a half for what I do. So I watch a movie while in it, after a hour I then take a hot salt bath for around 30 minutes and keep watching the movie or whatever.

https://www.amazon.com/Succinic-Crystals-Pills-Purity-grams/dp/B009JH2CME/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia?keywords=succinic+acid&pd_rd_i=B009JH2CME&pd_rd_r=ae6bb8dd-b179-4762-9c75-4fdf6f95eec4&pd_rd_w=nZ8WF&pd_rd_wg=sqMkJ&pf_rd_p=a5491838-6a74-484e-8787-eb44c8f3b7ff&pf_rd_r=VCSJP4324ND2APZJ7RYC&psc=1&qid=1572378038

Yes clean around wound. The flap has to go. It’s going to bleed when it’s clipped but that’s good cause you’re getting healthy tissue with blood vessels. Self-Adhesive Cohesive Wrap Bandage Tape by LotFancy, Elastic Non-Woven, FDA Approved, 10 Rolls, Assorted Colors (2Inches x 5Yards) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6C91ZS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qNCLBbBSFG2VC
Remedy and Recovery Professional Groomer's Styptic Powder for Pets, 1.5-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004PJ55KC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xOCLBbAKS8A0G
Stash Tea Original Honey Sticks 20-3 oz Sticks Individually Sealed Portable Honey Tubes 100% Pure Clover Honey Kosher Certified Individually Wrapped Sticks of Pure Clover Honey, Sweeten Tea or Coffee https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I4PY1S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gPCLBb9TNCZHV
Dealmed Gauze Pads, Non-Sterile, Non Woven, 2" x 2", 4 Ply, 200/Bx https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M63XDS7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kQCLBbVN65JRZ
Manna Pro Theracyn Poultry Wound and Skin Care Spray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I5XHK88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IXCLBb28EDCFH
Silver Nitrate Solution, 0.1M, 100mL - The Curated Chemical Collection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0787GCSKG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_E0CLBb42XWGRC
SE CS100-6 100 Count 6" Cotton Swabs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002V0ZY2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_G1CLBbQDJ3WQT
10 - Black Twist Open/Close 2oz Refillable Artist's Bullet Bottles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N59CU9J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.2CLBb6123ZF2
Swan Isopropyl Alcohol, 99 percent, Pint, 16 OZ (Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZCCYTWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_G4CLBb3V54WRP
Dynarex D1415 Povidone Iodine Prep Solution USP, 16 Fluid Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005R8580M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_G5CLBbMTA0YK8
Squip Nasaline Salt-box Of 50 Pre-measured Packets, 400 Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009EXQLM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_y7CLBbW76XN59
Teenitor 3ml Pipette, Top Quality Disposable Pipettes Transfer Pipettes 3ml Eye Dropper for Essential Oil Pipette Makeup Tool 110pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JXVGNK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Y8CLBbG25KBC5
Save A Caf Sav A Chick Electrolyte Vitamin Supplement 3 PACK/.25OUNCE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UQOZC4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_19CLBb3BFM046
Gorilla 7500101 Super Glue Brush & Nozzle, 10 g, Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A7AVQKA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SgDLBbTME6VWX
MedPride Nitrile Exam Gloves, Powder-Free, Small, Box/100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GS8W2HC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fiDLBb1X2K42G
Panasonic ES246AC Bikini Shaper & Trimmer for Women with Compact, Portable Design and Adjustable Trim Settings, Battery Operated https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005JS5C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_sjDLBbY10CSTW

Think that covers basics. Alcohol, self adhesive wrap, salt for saline, styptic powder, gauze, theracyn (antibiotic for superficial injuries), silver nitrate (only use with wooden applicators- strong cauterizing agent), pipette, electrolyte ( 1/16 tsp to 8 oz water. If chick is ill add honey for quick energy then mix solution with food to make mash), bottles, betadine ( I cut to 50% strength with saline), and gorilla glue with brush and dispenser. Oh and gloves and shaver:)

Yes! I was in the same situation, trying to come up with a small but effective system in college, and in a small apartment.

My design was based halfway off of what I'd seen from Jeb Gardener on YouTube, and the other half just what I could throw together with what I had lying around. Jeb is a little... well... interesting, but very informative.

Basically, what I did was get a 10-gallon flat stacker tote from Walmart, drill holes in it, put net pots in, clay pebbles, and rock wool cubes, and now I have a garden! It's really tough to describe all of the little intricacies with it, but this community has helped me out tremendously. By no means is my system perfect, and in fact, it's super Jerry Rigged and super jank, but it works! This whole process has been a great learning experience. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask in this community, or if you want to hear more about my system, feel free to DM me! Here are some photos!

Here are the various things I bought off Amazon to get me started!

pH down (the better kind)

pH meter (not available on Amazon anymore)

rockwool cubes (1.5")

General Hydroponics nutrients

pH up & down (the down didn't last very long, but the up seems to work fine. You probably won't need up near as often as down.)

air stones (these seem to do a fine job. Not the best certainly, but they work.)

clay pebbles (not sure what quality these are, but they do their job! Be sure to rinse very thoroughly.)

net pots (these work fine. Nothing special.)

EDIT: Added links to Amazon

>With the raft, don't the roots sit in water?

 

Yes and no. What you want to do is get enough foam so that about half of inch sits outside the water at all time. This allows the roots to breath outside of the water (like the DWC). Again, don’t let this part get dry or it can cause air pruning. You can do this by allowing the net pot to sit a little higher in the foam, planting higher in the net pot, or getting a little thicker foam.

 

I am attaching a link to MPH Gardener. I would say look over his stuff. He is pretty freakin’ awsome.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oDYeffYcVkY

 

>Can you recommend all the testing equipment I need or provide an Amazon link?

 

You will need a PPM and pH meter. These are two cheap version I use. You can go as crazy as you want, just remember the cheaper the more you replace them.

 

pH: http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity%C2%AE-Accuracy-Measurement-Resolution-Handheld/dp/B00FJFEB2O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427150876&sr=8-1&keywords=ph+meter

 

pH Callibration Liquid: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007X5KAV4/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687462&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B004HE7W42&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=118RAVZJW5YGE1CB5EE9

 

PPM: http://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1427150876&sr=8-3&keywords=ph+meter

 

>With lettuce greens, I think the raft would work. Perhaps I'll do DWC with tomatoes; I think it would be hard with greens.

 

That sounds great. Watch the MPH Gardener on his Dutch bucket tomatoes first. I will preface with he does use MiracleGro for his nutrients, which is a highly debated topic. So take the nutrients with a grain of salt.

 

>How do you swap out water? Do you just do a 100% water change? Is that cost-effective with the price of nutrients?

 

I do do a 100% water change every two weeks. You can check the level of nutrients and try adding them; however, I have an outside garden during the summer and just put the nutrients there which does wonders for them.

 

Also, it gives me a chance to add in bacteria as I need it.

 

There are methods for balancing the pH, nutrients, and keeping the same water; however, as a beginner I would not get into this. If you want to we can talk but just swap the nutrients out as you go.

 

And this is where I will highlight that you want a shallow reservoir because you want to keep the minimum water you need to not to waste nutrients. I would say go to a hardware store and ikea and see what bins will work.

 

>Do I need to paint my plastic bin black to deter mold growth? Thanks so much for your help!

 

Yes and no. There are ways to go around managing algae with either pond products or barley straw mats, but to be honest sealing off holes and painting things black is the easiest.

 

Keep in mind that if you are going to have high heat in the room a white reservoir might be better than black.

Sorry I'm late to respond, but if you want to reply to someone, you need to click the "reply" link under their comment. Then add your comment as a reply to them, it will notify them you replied, and they'll know the reply is for them.

This reply is probably a bit long, lol. But I'm bored, so I go into some detail, and give some suggestions on tools n' such you can use for various things. You don't have to use them, obviously.

===

• Yes, break down all the starches before fermenting. Yeast can't use starches, they will release some enzymes, but none that will break down starches. The enzymes that break down starches come from the grain itself, or you add them. This is why you do the iodine test after mashing, but before fermenting, it is testing for the presence of starches, if it's blue, than all the starches haven't been converted and the yeast won't turn those starches into alcohol. So you need to continuing mashing, maybe add enzymes if you haven't already.
  
  
• 2lbs of sugar should be enough for the batch.
  
  
• The barley does need to be milled. The distiller shop should be able to crush/mill it for you, or if there is a feed supply store nearby, they might be able to do it for you. But whole grains aren't going to work because the starches will be trapped inside. Grain seeds are essentially made up of 3 parts: bran, endosperm, and germ. The bran is the outer shell that protects everything but it also contains some vitamins, the endosperm is where the starches and enzymes are contained, and the germ is where the actual plant embryo is, as well as vitamins and fats are contained. Milling/crushing/grinding is what breaks that bran off, and will make the endosperm (starches and enzymes) available to be dissolved into the water. If that bran is still there, everything will be trapped inside.
  
  
• The enzymes I mentioned, you would add them before pitching (adding) the yeast, to help break down the starches in the grains. I would specifically add them at the 150F (65C) mark, that is within the safe temperatures for both of them. Glucoamylase will start to denature at 158F (70C), and alpha-amylase will start to denature at around 161F (72C), and if you didn't know, denatured enzymes (proteins) don't work anymore.
  
  ====
  
  I do my mashing in a 5gal stainless steel pot, and I do my fermenting in these 5gal buckets (foodsafe from Home Depot). I use these lids, as it has an extendable spout which is the perfect diameter for a No. 7 size drilled rubber stopper, which I stick the airlock in.
  
  For the actual mashing process. I do the following. So, not far off from what you do, except the starting temperature, since going above 161F can damage some of your enzymes and slow things down. These steps haven't failed me yet.
  
  
• Heat the water up to 158F (70C)
  
• Add grains when it's at that temp or slightly below it.
  
• Let it cool down to 150F (65C), and hold it there for an 1h to 1.5h. But it has to stay at ~150F the entire time.
  
• Pull out the grains (which are in a brew bag, mentioned below).
  
• I personally do an iodine test at this point, before moving on to cooling. To see if there are any starches left over. If there is still starch, and I haven't added enzymes already, I will add enzymes, 1/2tsp each (alpha and gluco), and I'll hold it at 150F for another 30min.
  
• I let mine cool down to between 70F (20C) and 75F (24C), depending on the room temp. You can use an immersion chiller if you have one (I made mine, explanation below), or an ice bath, if you want to speed up cooling it down from 150F to 75F.
  
• Then pitch the yeast.
  
  I mix up the yeast culture as soon as I hit the 150F temp of the mash, by pouring the yeast (1tbsp) into 2cups of warm water with a pinch of sugar, a pinch of DAP (aka diammonium phosphate), and a pinch of Magnesium sulfate (aka epsom salt, I bought at walmart in a large jug). Then I just let it sit while the yeast rehydrates and starts doing it's thing. When the mash is down to around 80F, I pour that mash into a sanitized 5gal bucket, then when it hits between 75F to 70F, I pour the yeast mix into the mash in the bucket, close the lid, put in the stopper+airlock, and leave it alone for about 3 days, before I check on it.
  
  When I check on it, if it has slowed down significantly, or is stuck. I do the following:
  
  

1. I will check the temp, and warm/cool it if needed to get it back to between 70F (20C) and 75F (24C).
   
2. If the temp isn't off, I will check pH, if it's between 5 and 5.5, everything is good, if not I use citric acid (pull it down) or calcium carbonate (pull it up) to fix pH. Closer to 5 is better than closer to 5.5, ideally 5.2 to 5.5 is the best. Some people will use oyster shells and add them before pitching yeast, to act as a pH buffer. It does work, since they are essentially made up of calcium carbonate. I'd recommend soaking in water+bleach (10% solution, 10mL bleach, 90mL water) for 30min then rinsing under tap water, then letting them dry out, if you go this route, to make sure any bacteria are dead. Then you can put them in the ferment bucket in their own small brew bag, under the big brew bag, or in one of those stainless steel tea strainers, so you don't need to fish them out of the grains/trub afterwards which is a pain in the ass. Ideally, by the end of the ferment, if you don't want to distill it right away (within a few days), you can let the pH drop as low as 4, to stave off any bacterial infection.
   
3. If pH is fine, it usually means there isn't enough nutrients, so I will put in 1/2tsp of DAP, and 1/2tsp of Magnesium sulfate, for 5gal that is. Might have to adjust pH after adding those.
   
   That usually accounts for all the stuck fermentation issues.
   
   ===
   
   

• For my immersion chiller. I use a 72" length of uncoated corrugated stainless steel tubing I bought from Houzz, and then I bought a faucet to garden hose adapter, and 2 of these 3/4" NPT to garden hose adapters. So it goes Sink faucet > faucet adapter > garden hose > hose to NPT adapter > CSST > hose to NPT adapter > garden hose > tub drain. There are other ways to do it, but I had the CSST already just laying around unused. You could probably just buy a piece of copper pipe, bend it into a coil, stretch rubber tubing over each end, and then stretch one end over the faucet, and let the other end hang over the sink/tub drain. I prefer the immersion chiller to the ice bath, or just waiting around.
  
  
• I also don't know if you have what's called a brew bag, but it makes handling the grains easier. You put the bag in the bucket, then fill the bucket with your water, then pour the grains into the bag/bucket. Then when you are done, and want to take the grains out, you just lift out the bag, let it drain, you can squeeze the bag, or do whats call lautering where you pour water through it (you can put the bag in a large colander if you want to lauter), and voila. A lot easier than without the bag, and having to scoop all the grains out. This is the one I have, you can see what I was describing in the photos.
  
  
• Some people like to do what is called distilling "on grain", where they will pour the entire mash, with some grains or all the grains, into the distillation boiler. But if you aren't using a jacketed boiler, you run the risk of burning the grains, which adds an acrid taste and can ruin things. I don't do this, I use an immersion heater in my boiler, so I distill "off grain", as I use the brew bag and pull the grains out before doing into the boiler.
  
  
• For controlling the mashing temperatures, I use a Sous Vide cooker that I own for cooking, it can go between 32F and 210F. Tons of them on Amazon these days, and with a bit of aluminum door screen around the openings to keep the big grains out, benefit of the sous vide is it will heat and stir for you. If it's too expensive for you now, Amazon always has deals on them for Black Friday/Cyber Monday, or for Xmas. But you can just keep adding hot water and stirring periodically as the temp drops, I've done that before too. Or you can use a hot plate, which I have also done. I've never used the stove top (electric), or a gas burner, but I imagine it's possible to do with that as well, but probably a bit more difficult. Whatever floats your boat, and works for you.
  
  ===
  
  Hope this helps!

DANGEROUS POPPER RECIPE!!!!!!!!!!!!!BEWARE!!!!!!THIS IS THE BOMB!!!!!!!!!

Cute title for this post huh?

Best thing about it? My hands are not shaking as much and I just put the poppers down. God, I adore these Isobutyl pops!

OK, let's get serious. As promised here's Popp-peeeeeeeeeeee Pig! Sorry, I digress and am still a lot spacey.

I will need to tweak this recipe because it is so very potent. You confirmed addicts will fall in love with this. It does have an acidic start to the huff. I should add more acid, me thinks. Will try for the next batch. I will tweak and report but not soon. This batch will last at least 4 days if tonight is any indication.

So let's start: If you do not know JimOakey's set up please go find it and do as it says. I re-posted it here: https://www.reddit.com/r/popperpigs/comments/3k1i6j/adventures_in_popper_production/
Those who do; I will give enough details so you will not need to review the posts.

1. You will place 1 tablespoon of nitrite in a small, clean mason jar.
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L74HO5M?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
   
   
2. Add 2 ounces of distilled water.
   
   
3. Add 2 ounces of Isobutyl alcohol. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009S08MB2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
   
   
4. Mix for 10 minutes. Usually for isoproply I mix until the liquid is clear, usually takes about 30 seconds for isoproply, but I got frustrated waiting so allowed 10 minutes then said, 4 get it. Take it as it is.
   JimOakey uses a portable drill press for mixing. He puts a hand drill in it and places the "J" corner cut from a plastic hanger inserted into the drill as a mixing tool. Take a plastic hanger, turn it upright. See the top and bottom corners look like a J ? Just cut out that J and force it into a hand drill bit slot. So that the little up turn of the J is at the bottom and is the portion that does the mixing - is in the blend. http://www.amazon.com/Wolfcraft-4525404-Attachment-4-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B000JCIMEA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452057063&sr=8-1&keywords=portable+drill+press
   
   Step 5) After 10 minutes allow the mixing to continue. Add 1 ounce of battery acid. Add slowly. I added it slowly over a 4 minute duration. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-battery-acid-cycle-acid/2030000-P?searchTerm=battery+acid
   
   
   
5. Continue mixing while you wash out your acid pour cup.
   
   
6. Turn off the drill and remove the blend. Allow the popper to rise to the top - about 2 minutes. Drew off the popper with an eye dropper. Put in a plastic container like this:https://images.search.yahoo.com/images/view;_ylt=AwrB8qAYo4xW_WUAdiMunIlQ;_ylu=X3oDMTIzdWtmaWIxBHNlYwNzcgRzbGsDaW1nBG9pZAMzMTBmNWZjMzU4NDAwY2Q1ZGM4NWE1YjRjMzQ2YzE0NgRncG9zAzIwBGl0A2Jpbmc-?.origin=&back=https%3A%2F%2Fimages.search.yahoo.com%2Fyhs%2Fsearch%3Fp%3Dplastic%2Bbottles%26fr%3Dyhs-mozilla-001%26fr2%3Dpiv-web%26hsimp%3Dyhs-001%26hspart%3Dmozilla%26tab%3Dorganic%26ri%3D20&w=500&h=500&imgurl=cdnll.freundcontainer.com%2Fimages%2F500%2F3390B01NAT-Condiment-Bottles.jpg&rurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.freundcontainer.com%2Fplastic-condiment-bottles-ldpe%2Fp%2Fv3390B01NAT%2F&size=11.9KB&name=%3Cb%3EPlastic%3C%2Fb%3E+Condiment+%3Cb%3EBottles%3C%2Fb%3E+-+LDPE&p=plastic+bottles&oid=310f5fc358400cd5dc85a5b4c346c146&fr2=piv-web&fr=yhs-mozilla-001&tt=%3Cb%3EPlastic%3C%2Fb%3E+Condiment+%3Cb%3EBottles%3C%2Fb%3E+-+LDPE&b=0&ni=21&no=20&ts=&tab=organic&sigr=12cmkin1v&sigb=14a3rnv76&sigi=125l9qmk1&sigt=11eiodf26&sign=11eiodf26&.crumb=pIsY04NLJw4&fr=yhs-mozilla-001&fr2=piv-web&hsimp=yhs-001&hspart=mozilla
   
   
   I paint my container black and keep in a room temp, dark corner of my office.
   
   
   I drew 23 ml from this batch, but tossed the rest - about 1 ml.
   
   
7. Wash out your mason jar and eye dropper.
   
   
8. Allow about 6 hours to cure.
   
   
9. Get fucked up.

Here's what our local collectors group has come up with.

FORMULA

Solution A : Cleaning
Mix 7:1 Distilled Water to 90% Isopropyl Alcohol or Ethanol (190 proof Everclear®) together with .00125 part purest dish soap, Seventh Generation Natural Dish Liquid: Free and Clear recommended. Shake before using.

Solution B : Rinsing
Distilled Water + 1 Milliliter or less of Rinsing fluid, Jet Dry® or Photo Flo

PROCESS

Place record on soft surface or soft cloth. Spray or drip a generous amount of Solution A around the play surface avoiding the label. Wipe with light to medium pressure with a soft cloth like a car shammy or record cleaning brush. Blot dry and repeat process on the side. Spray or drip a generous amount of Solution B, wipe dry with soft cloth or air dry.

NOTES:

Distilled water is better than tap water because trace minerals and things like fluoride and calcium, etc. have been removed.

Use the purist dish soap you can locate, the fewer additives and dyes and fragrances the better. I currently use Seventh Generation Natural Dish Liquid: Free and Clear. An even purer alternative may well exist.

Rinsing fluid is found by the dishwashing detergent in the grocery store. Many members recommend Jet Dry (TM).

Note, this is a home kitchen formula, but mixes very close to commercial record cleaners sold for many years. The Library of Congress Recommendations can be found here: http://loc.gov/preservation/care/record.html Their Cleaning solution PDF found here: http://loc.gov/preservation/care/MSDSRecordcleaning.pdf

LINKS

Seventh Generation Dish Liquid, Free & Clear, 25 Fl Oz
Link: http://amzn.com/B00IB0D2Z6

Finish Jet Dry Dishwasher Rinse Aid, 16 Ounce
Link: http://amzn.com/B00IB18ZAM

Kodak Photo-Flo 200 16oz
Link: http://amzn.com/B00009R7E0

950ml bottle of Denatured Ethanol with 200-Proof Ethyl Alcohol IPA and MIBK
Link: http://amzn.com/B004M7YFRQ

Everclear 151 Grain Alcohol (750 ML)
http://www.bevmo.com/Shop/ProductDetail.aspx/Spirits/Other-Whiskeys/Everclear/Everclear-151-Grain-Alcohol/3709

Got ya, fam.

That'll be the premade solution to start you off. A good rule of thumb would be to buy 3 of those (~150 days worth) and see how you get on with them. If you find that you're seeing decent results, then you can buy the raw powder on that website and start making it yourself at home. Derek from MorePlatesMoreDates has some pretty good write-ups on how to make your own RU solutions, one of which involves minoxidil as the main vehicle.

And no prob. I'd imagine that this would definitely be a useful boost to your regimen.

BONUS TIP: If you really wanna enhance your RU solution, you can add in some Azelaic acid powder as well. A 25 gram bag on amazon will set you back ~$38, but should last you a year and some months. For a 5% solution, both powders should be used at 50mg daily.

EDIT: Forgot to include this other RU solution synthesis article. This guy mixes it daily using a solvent solution, so it's definitely more advanced, but about as comprehensive as you can get. As he also mentions in this guide: "If you want to be hardcore, you could use fin or dut PLUS RU58841/minox/azelaic (home brew as above). If you do this approach as an average guy, I think it would be physically impossible to go bald." There's your motivation!

Bought these sprayers: https://www.amazon.com/Sprayer-Improved-2-Pack-Colloidal-Applications/dp/B00JZ29SQ6/

Bought Benzyl Alcohol: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C86CQFA/

Used the proportions of benzyl alcohol/distilled water in this post to make 15ml solution: http://bluelight.org/vb/threads/657162-How-to-Make-Your-Own-Bacteriostatic-Water

The nasal sprayer sprays ~0.1ml per spray. I worked the math out so i'm getting 800mcg per spray, but i'd guess more like 750mcg.

And a note - Benzyl alcohol is synthesized using sodium hydroxide - at least the more expensive Benzyl alcohol is. And that's safe. But cheaper Benzyl alcohol is synthesized using formaldehyde, so at the end of the day I would go for a saline based nasal spray instead of benzyl alcohol-based, because you never know how the Benzyl alcohol you purchase was synthesized. Though, if you're kind of reckless like me, you can just use BA because it's been found that low dose formaldehyde doesn't really have much negative effect on animals. You can find recipes/ratios for a saline solution. The goal of having a sodium or Benzyl Alcohol is to keep away microbes.

Good luck, I hope it helps you :)

For all you inquiring minds in the future, I don't want any broken links for you, so here they are in order of their presence in my post:

Nasal sprayer wayback link: https://web.archive.org/web/20171103150343/https://www.amazon.com/Sprayer-Improved-2-Pack-Colloidal-Applications/dp/B00JZ29SQ6/ref=sr_1_2_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1509721011&sr=1-2&keywords=snoot+amber

Benzyl alcohol wayback link (just so you know what's what): https://web.archive.org/web/20171103150622/https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C86CQFA/ref=sxr_rr_xsim_1_s_it?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3008523062&pd_rd_wg=hXAX8&pf_rd_r=2Z2D6GE7C08G7Q8Q85AW&pf_rd_s=desktop-rhs-carousels&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B01C86CQFA&pd_rd_w=DhX5q&pf_rd_i=benzyl+alcohol&pd_rd_r=e731e3c2-a7b4-446b-9b8f-9d768494536a&ie=UTF8&qid=1509721062&sr=1

Bluelight nasal spray recipe wayback link: WB isn't playing nice, so here's a pastebin of the OP: https://pastebin.com/raw/XXjWvENz


Looks like they are referral links, but they're not mine. Must have got a referral bug or something from a stray cookie. Sorry! edit: nvm, i was being lazy. fixed the ref links so they're not ref links. At least the original links I fixed, too lazy to rearchive using wayback, sorry lol

Unfortunately that depends on the glue type used. This is going to sound odd but stay with me. If it seemed like a gooey/tacky adhesive you can just pry it off slowly and it will likely just tear away. If it seems solid then it may be a CA glue or similar substance that will come apart best with a bit of debonder.

But if you aren't particularly worried about the case you can use a box cutter and slowly with a decent amount of force cut around the entirety of the seam to free up most adhesive. Then use something like a hair dryer or heat source of some kind to soften the plastic as you try and pry the face off. The heat only makes it less likely for the plastic to break.

Does that help?

Alright here we go

1. The acid can either be muriatic ferric chloride. Ferric chloride being far safer and much much more common. Dip it and let it sit in the acid for 30 minutes. Take it out and spray it with windex or something else to neutralize the acid. Sand it lightly after with very high grit if you’d like a lighter finish don’t if you’d like a darker finish.
   
   2 i get my ferric chloride off Amazon
   Here’s the exact stuff I use MG Chemicals 415 Ferric Chloride Copper Etchant Solution, 945mL Liquid Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T8Y20W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cw1lDbFSXD42R
   
   3 usually people use ceramic “pellets” but basically anything hard will work the bigger harder and sharper the stones or bits are the tougher the finish.
   
   4 for the stoning part take the blade and stick it into a vibratory tumbler or a rock tumbler I believe with some water for how ever long. Longer is more scratches less time is a less scratched look. The tumbler can be found for about $55 at harbor freight https://www.harborfreight.com/5-lb-metal-vibrator-tumbler-67617.html
   
   
2. Cut the deer antler length wise to get two sides that you can then epoxy and pin onto the handle
   
   A fair price for that would be about $250-$300 but if you get some good fishing spots and because it’s for a buddy I’d charge $200-$225 probably up to you
   
   Hope this helps

Boric acid in gelatin pills. You can buy both in bulk on amazon. You can use one every day for a few days and then use it as maintenance to keep your acidity up. You’ll want to wear a pantyliner, and I usually just do it before bed. Sex is safe with it in if you happen to go for round two, but no oral!

Edit- you can buy them premade, but they are super expensive that way. I’ve had a container of boric acid and like 1000 capsules for a couple/ few years now and it’s super easy to fill your own a few at a time.

Not sure if this is allowed but this is the brand I bought years ago, the reviews helped

Clean the fiberglass first both inside and out. I'd recommend using oxalic acid.

You can buy it here on Amazon . For the love of all that is holy please follow proper dilution ratios.

OXALIC ACID 99.6% 5 Lb. Deck, Crystals, Metal Cleaning- Rust Removal, Wood Stain Remover and More! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0147JPQAI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_59hHzbK64MSJP

After your hull is clean gloss it over with either a new coat of wax, or if you're lazy like me use mopNglo

That boat will look brand new.

Please, please, please don't try and use normal food flavorings like the things you find in a grocery store in eliquid, it's a lot nastier than you might expect.

I would start with This VG+PG Combo deal, then get reputable nicotine from someplace like Nude Nicotine or wizard labs and flavors from a supplier like The Flavor Apprentice

You will also want bottles, a digital scale and some sort of transfer media (pipettes, eye droppers, etc)

This should be a solid foundation, but don't expect that you will be saving a ton of money off the bat. You should realistically expect to spend a couple hundred dollars to get fully setup with a decent flavor library and the basic mixing equipment but once you do, it can save you incredible amounts of money down the road.

Bok choi has been the easiest thing for me to grow by far so there's definitely something off in your system.

Having a pH pen and an EC pen is pretty much critical to diagnosing nutrient solution problems. This is the pH meter I have, which is kind of mid-tier but comes with calibration solution. Also pick up some storage solution as it will reduce how often you have to recalibrate the pen vs keeping it dry. EC meter you can go cheap on, I use this one and get good results.

Oxalic Acid Bath. You can find good write up on the method on BMXMuseum

https://bmxmuseum.com/forums/viewtopic.php?id=351132

You can buy Oxalic Acid crystals on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0147GM7CQ (2lb)

https://www.amazon.com/OXALIC-Crystals-Cleaning-Removal-Remover/dp/B0793F89NT (8 oz)

Lol fuck this dude. What a square. Here u go OP

https://www.amazon.com/Non-GMO-Project-Verified-Organic-Chemicals/dp/B006STCVL8

good luck and have a good trip

If you buy off Amazon PG is a little less than vg. Here's the best price I've found so far.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005PYOQ3I/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1372857931&sr=8-4&pi=SL75

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006TTQTH4/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1372857981&sr=8-3&pi=SL75

Gloves

Bottles

Vegetable Glycerine

Propylene Glyocl

Flavors

Flavourart Flavor Vendor - Other Flavourart Vendor

Nicotine If they're sold out you can get an email alert when it comes back in stock.

• Check around for good nicotine prices. A lot of places are sold out right now. MBV has pre-mixed nicotine where you just add flavor. http://www.mtbakervapor.com/236-ml-unflavored-nicotine-juice-usa-made/

I actually make my own, which sounds a little crazy, but if you get yeast infections a lot, I think it's worth it because suppositories are a little expensive. Your doctor might be able to give you a prescription but I don't know much about that.

If you are interested in making your own, I just this capsule making thing, and I have a giant bag of size 0 capsules. I have this boric acid. They're pretty easy to make. To me, the only down side is that I don't know the exact dosage that I'm using.

Just be careful and remember DO NOT ingest it orally! It goes in your vagina. I wrote it on the outside of the bottle because they look similar to my probiotic and I always worry that I'm going to confused if I'm tired.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z2CC7Q6?psc=1

This is a thing I found, just bought 10lbs vg from bulk apothecary and don't use vg much, but you're in luck!

Edit: my apologies, not free shipping :( but I did find this. http://www.essentialdepot.com/product/CUBE-4VG.html

If you're OK with being limited to 2 colors (red or blue) maybe Dykem would work? It's machinists layout dye.

http://www.amazon.com/Dykem-80300-Steel-Layout-Brush/dp/B0018ACR6G

Never seen anyone try to make a custom color machinists dye, but you'd have two of the three primary colors and the stuff sticks to metal like nobody's business.

Is there a problem with me just buying this and experimenting with different oils to see what works better?

Edit: This would probably look better wouldn't it...

I think you're right, my chemistry is the suck sometimes.

Black iron oxide is pretty cheap too. Amazon has that for 20 bucks for five pounds with free shipping.

I feel like Everclear would work just fine. My chemistry teacher used lab-grade ethanol and that can be purchased denatured. Like here.

citric acid and one of those magic erasers works waaaay better than vinagar:

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B006STCVL8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CHI3BVI?keywords=magic%20eraser&qid=1452327243&ref_=sr_1_6&sr=8-6

Instead of spray paint on the sheet metal, they make what is known as "Layout Fluid" (or Layout Dye, Layout Blue, Steel Blue, Machinist blue, etc)

It comes off with a tiny bit of rubbing alcohol and is designed to score nicely.

http://www.amazon.ca/Dykem-80300-Steel-Layout-Brush/dp/B0018ACR6G

Vegetable Glycerin 1 Gallon + Propylene Glycol 1 Gallon - USP - Kosher https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z2CC7Q6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_P92 NBsybYZH35GW

Get the nic and flavors from wizard/nude/etc. Do a little research, Sort out how to measure and store, and voila, 2 gallons of juice for a couple hundred bucks. Too easy.

Here's a shopping list for my current set-up. It's an extra small closet grow, but that's what i have to work with. You don't have to get exactly everything on this list, but you can use this for reference for your own grow!
Ill be running 1 plant at a time for now, with this set up.

Clip On Circulation Fan 6" - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000U9V47E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0mcDzb5826MEE

Ventech 440 CFM Exhaust Fan + Carbon Filter

5 Gallon Fabric Pot - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JUOWB2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_heETkTRSPOD2a

Programmable Digital Timer Switch - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P7RUGVO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_TTN7XnzIpVnyA

pH Calibration Solution - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P1MQWK4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_ahEtLDQTKcR5g

Digital PH Meter - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M8JU4TY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_NarNtEHiZIMNP

130w Cheap-o LED (TEMPORARY) -
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MPY7YC2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_bffmoa2zDlCSm

2x2x4 Grow Tent - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GCHXUVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_qa9gCG2RwnFzZ

Seaweed Extract 11% - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCWOEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dIcDzb4SDP9RY

Thermometer/Humidity Meter - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTPTG1J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_dtVvdguE18m3E

Use oxalic acid. Google dilution instructions for removing rust and use a wire brush to remove it. It'll shine like new

Just exactly how much are you looking for, and at what price point? WhiteWaterResearch has 30ml bottles for $10 a piece, but I assume you tryin to do better than that, no?

EDIT: Here's how you can make your own:

Distilled water: https://www.amazon.com/RPI-W20525-4000-0-Distilled-Water-4L/dp/B07D5JRMM3/ref=sr_1_8

Benzyl Alcohol: https://www.amazon.com/Benzyl-Alcohol-Grade-Sterile-Bottle/dp/B01C86CQFA/ref=pd_cp_328_1

Mix the above in a 99-to-1 ratio.

https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-Instruments-Storage-Solution-Electrode/dp/B002P35Y6U

Really most storage solutions would be fine but this one is manufacturer specific.

nice. Tips: you can keep Ferric Chloride solution in a ice cream bucket, i have had mine in one for a few months with no problems. also you can also use a soda bottle for dipping the blade.

For engraving you cant go wrong with a rotary tool as its the easiest way to do engravings. ghaa my engraving tip busted well i was doing the engraving on my latest blade as i developed a makers mark and put it on all my blades. so well I got it on it I screwed up the engraving so I did not do the best i could.

also amazon sells ferric chloride so here's a link: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T8Y20W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For etching resist you can use acrylic paint and I hear you can use electrical tape but have not tried it yet.

> But I've heard 6.08 is good too in that it creates an air pillow.

This is only a hypothesis, not proven.

The best argument I've seen was a guy over on AirsoftSniperForum who put layout fluid inside his barrel. The conclusion was that the BB travels down the top of the barrel. No air cushion required.

https://www.amazon.com/Biopharm-Calibration-Electrode-Traceable-Reference/dp/B01LVU36UD/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1498823587&sr=8-13&keywords=ph+storage+solution

or

https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-Instruments-Storage-Solution-Electrode/dp/B002P35Y6U/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498823587&sr=8-3&keywords=ph+storage+solution

https://www.amazon.com/OXALIC-Crystals-Cleaning-Removal-Remover/dp/B0793F89NT/

crap...alright, 37 bucks...

http://www.amazon.com/Propylene-Glycol-Food-Grade-Gallon/dp/B006TTQTH4/ref=cm_cr_pr_sims_t

I have dykem brand dykem, I think the have a red color too

Do you mean layout fluid?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0018ACR6G/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1449691385&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=marking+fluid&dpPl=1&dpID=51UF9oyOBFL&ref=plSrch

VG, 1 gallon

PG, 1 gallon

Just a heads up since apparently no one here seems to know where to look for Ferric Chloride and has apparently never heard of Amazon.

MG Chemicals 415 Ferric Chloride Liquid, 1 Quart Bottle, Dark Brown https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T8Y20W/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Ma3nxbSXG8SAQ

A liter is $15ish and will go a very very long way with etching knives.

Just be sure you do some research on safe handling. Use plastic containers not metal or glass. And be careful. It's a relatively safe and weak acid. But it's still acid and can hurt you if handled poorly.