Reddit mentions: The best lab & scientific products

Here is what I wrote out for this other guy,

Check our /r/diy_ejuice[1] great community lots of info and recipes!

Order the nicotine and your STARTER flavorings from https://wizardlabs.us[2]


Order either 60 or 100mg pg based(if you aren't allergic) nicotine for math reasons, they both calculate pretty even. Also the 100mg one will last a lot longer but it kind of depends on what is in stock.


For the flavors it's best to order your beginning ones there too until you know what you like,because they sell like same size ones for $1.99 (prob about enough for 80-140 milliliters depending on your preferred flavor %
once I knew what I wanted I started ordering from high desert vapes
https://highdesertvapes.com/categories/DIY/[3]
(they resell flavorings so you get a GOOD discount)


P. S. On HDV ellas=capellas (you have to order ellas sweet strawberry, my most ordered and one of my faves. I also recommend fruit stripe gum, but I forgot who made it it's a newer one I just picked up!)


Don't forget to order syringes and I accidentally ordered a shit ton of size 14 needles for them and it's really hard to pull up VG since it's so thick so get a bigger one for that. Also make sure before you use them that you put tape over the numbers because they will come off really fast if you don't.


I actually buy all of my PG and VG locally Walmart sells VG (if you are interested let me know and I'll send you a pic of what the bottle looks like) but it's in the skin ointment aisle.


Tractor supply company sells a gallon of PG for $23 best deal ever. I'm never running out! Lol
You'll need bottles as well (way more expensive than you'd think, there are some cheapish options on Amazon for like 50 10ml bottles.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D2MPVUM?pc_redir=1395300206&robot_redir=1[4]


if you want reusable bottles hit up


http://www.amazon.com/Amber-Glass-Bottle-Dropper-15ml/dp/B0085W96U0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396409623&sr=8-1&keywords=15ml+glass+bottle


that is what I use now

Download the program ejuicemeup that's your calculator. Love it.
http://ejuice.breaktru.com[5]


Uhm.... I'm probably forgetting something any questions, just ask.


Edit: holy novel


Edit 2: I remembered something else, try and get familiar with the list of flavors known to crack tanks
http://discountvapers.com/liquids-and-tanks/[6]


Edit 3:links!


REAL EDIT: formatting, I usually use capellas but there are certain flavors that certain people do better. I'd say Capellas = fruit FW = dessert TFA = candy like Lorannes = Fruit candy like

and steeping I am really lazy and don't wait to vape and it still tastes pretty good. I'll make about 15 ml and it will just get better and better as it goes :D

I actually can't compare since I was an early adapter to DIY and I didn't ever ger into ordering juices online. I can tell you everyone I've let try it so far has LOVED it. you may want to tweak it a little for your own preferences like if you want it a little more cinnamon-y or a little sweeter but each person likes things a little different

A newbie myself but, as said above, definitely take care when removing the keycaps. The stems are prone to breaking and getting stuck in the switch.

 

Since you have to take the switches apart in order to swap out the sliders for the Nexus sliders, invest in a cheapo ultrasonic cleaner. That is the one I got and, while not the best, it gets the job done. Get one of these as well.

1. Take all the switches apart. You should have the slider, the top housing, the spring, the tactile leaf, and the bottom housing with the contact leaf. Some people like to take out the contact leaf from the bottom housing but I like to leave it in.
   
   
2. Clean each group of parts in the ultrasonic cleaner with cool water and 1-2 dental tabs. I use cool water because the water gets pretty warm after 10-15 minutes of cleaning.
   
   
3. Once cleaned, lay them out on something like a napkin separated from each other, place them somewhere where they can stay relatively dust free (otherwise why even clean it) and let them dry for minimum 24 hours. Mine dried quicker but better safe than sorry.
   
    
   
   Since you say the springs are light for your tastes (same for me) you can buy replacement springs. People will warn you about SPRiT because of how he handled things in the past but he's the only person I know of who has Alps replacement springs. For me to truly enjoy these switches, I needed heavier springs so I decided to reach out to SPRiT through his website and hope for the best. I got my first order and my second order from him has already shipped. (Do note that Korea Post took about 35 days to deliver to me and the tracking didn't update at all since it left Korea. This may not be their fault, though, as I later realized I was using a service called Aftership and not Korea Posts website to track my order.)
   
   
    
   
   I'm no lubing expert but I have lubed some alps using RO59. I've been recommended this lube, as well. The basic gist of lubing goes:
   
   
4. Lube the two sides of the slider.
   
   
5. (Optional) Lube the two sides of the slider that make contact with the tactile leaf and contact leaf. This will likely cause a decrease in tactility.
   
   
6. Lube the rails of the top housing where the slider makes contact.
   
   
7. (Optional) Lube the inside of the slider, where the spring goes mainly.
   
   
8. (Optional) Lube the spring.
   
    
   
   Putting it all back together is pretty simple. If you're patient enough to wait, I'd go ahead and wait for the Nexus GB to ship. If not, Alps switches are able to be opened without desoldering, so you can go ahead and do a build now and replace the slider later.
   
    
   
    
   
   I hope I've helped :)

Have you already ordered?

If not, I would also recommend Capella's Cool Mint (3.5% as a pairing, ~1% as a component). It is a very sweet mint that also adds body to mixes; almost like a mint honey. It is good to have on hand and would work well with several of your proposed recipes. That's different than say Gorilla Mint which is the straight-up mint you know in Mojitos or Inawera Shisha Fresh Mint that gives a dry but tasty cooling effect (not koolada) with little to no flavor (think TVC's Frosty/"Cool" juices).

One of the most common intermediate questions here is "How do I give my juices body?" Cool Mint is one of the flavors that does that well. Passion and stone fruits often have the same effect at very low levels, as can /u/Mercy404's suggestion of Strawberry Ripe in the right mix (which opens a whole other conversation on popular flavors vs affects).

You may also get some sucralose. It is a different type of sweetener and some people prefer it. It is harder on your coils, but it doesn't mute the flavors like EM. I use them both for different recipes.

[edit] - On the sweetener subject... I'd suggest using them at first. Building sweetness and body is really difficult. I don't consider any recipe complete until it is absent of sweeteners, but they certainly make them more enjoyable for regular vaping until you find those last 'special' bits.

_____

Second, you are going to want A LOT of bottles. Just trust me. One of your primary concerns when starting should be to make mixing fast, fun, and extremely low maintenance. A big-ass bag of new bottles is an excellent, cheap step in that direction. Down the road you may want fancy Cobalt, but something like this is perfect to start.

___

Lastly, I do not see a scale in your order. I HIGHLY recommend you begin mixing by weight. I can't stress that enough. It is probably the single most important factor in how much you will enjoy mixing and the likelihood that you'll stick with the hobby. I have been mixing a long while and I've used all the different methods. Mixing by weight is soooo much nicer. It is faster, easier, more accurate, and there is zero cleanup. Most people will tell you that they started mixing more often once they switched. I personally found myself wandering away from the hobby until the switch. I had become tired of the cleanup and mess. Now it is pure joy again.

It is also cheaper than your alternative hardware budget. Even if you brush off everything above, please, buy a cheap scale.

A comment I submitted in a different thread:

Awesome! I've had my pax over a year and I'm still loving it. It still hits like a champ and the cleaning is to me easier than its made out to be. The stealthiness of it amazing. I've told a bouncer its a portable battery or an ecig and gotten no questions. Just a heads up the very first time cooking a fresh bowl definitely smells like weed. All vaping smells some, but that first heating and first few hits are by far the strongest. After that is gets much less pungent. If I'm packing it at home before going to a venue I'm nervous about, I'll take the first 2-3 hits at home. Out of a full oven I can get 3-6 good sessions with stirring, depending on the weed and people.

Here's a couple tips I've picked up.

Be careful of the mouthpiece spring. It's deceptively strong and will launch your mouthpiece to dark places. Also, when pushing down the mouthpiece to lock it, the "sweet spot" is juuuuust before all the way down. It's hard to explain. But you can actually push the mouthpiece down too far and it won't always lock. My first time using it I was pissed because it wasn't locking. But I was pushing it too hard and past the lock point. Pushing it down lighter was the answer.

Dental brushes dipped in alcohol work great for scrubbing out the oven and mouthpiece and can be purchased at any store/pharmacy. The lube is food grade propylene glycol and can be purchased at certain stores or online for cheap. Such as http://www.amazon.com/Propylene-Glycol-Pint-Free-Shipping/dp/B005F5KYM4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1418272765&sr=8-3&keywords=propylene+glycol. Rub a few drops on/inside the mouthpiece tube every time you clean it to keep it from sticking.

When you're cleaning it be careful of getting the temp change button wet. If it gets wet, it will think it's on and the oven will start heating. That sucks if you are cleaning it and don't notice.

I've found its better to Charge the pax right side up with the charger on top. It helps makes sure that no resin leaks up the tube and is more stable.

If you rotate it on its long axis (doing a barrel roll) 3 times, it enters party mode and the front light flashes. This means it won't stop heating if it's kept still. Normally if it's kept still for a few seconds it goes "idle" and stops heating. The flashing light also looks pretty cool. You can also play Simon says against your pax by turning it on its long axis 7 times I think. YouTube has a good pax Simon says video with the steps. Both tricks are great when showing your pax to friends.

I started mixing back in January, and here's the list of the items I got off of Amazon to get set up:

• Scale
  
  
• Vegetable Glycerin(VG) Originally I just bought the quart size, but wound up needing a gallon fairly quick. If you're mixing at any ratio of 70VG/30PG or higher you will too.
  
  
• Propylene Glycol(PG) I'm still on my first quart, and I've mixed a LOT of juice! I'll probably need another here in the next few months, but until then I really don't have the space to store a gallon of PG.
  
  
• Pipettes Great for adding nicotine to your mixes and for those flavors that don't come in bottles with droppers.
  
  
• Small Mixer This little beauty works great for mixing directly in the bottle. Sure, shaking your mixes is fine, but when you're doing multiple 50 ml or 120 ml bottles, shit gets old REAL quick. The plastic wand is the secret. It's got a split down the middle which allows the two halves to spread when it gets up to speed. All I need to fully mix is 15-30 seconds of this at full speed and the bottle is well homogenized.
  
  There's a few incidentals, such as nitrile gloves, eye protection(You do NOT want nicotine in your eyes!) paper towels. Bottles! How could I forget bottles?!? Again, Amazon to the rescue-just head over to 510 Central's storefront They've got some of the best HDPE bottles on Amazon-Nice and squeezy but firm. If glass is more your thing, I'm sure there's a bunch of those on Amazon too.
  
  Here's a little tip I use: When mixing, put your VG and PG in some condiment-style bottles(I picked up a couple at a craft store in the candy making dept) When you're mixing in small bottles, it saves time and mess to pour from a squeeze bottle than a syringe. Syringes and VG don't work too well-It's like sucking snot up a straw.
  
  I'm also going to say head over to /r/DIY_eJuice and read up on mixing. There's a TON of great info in the sidebar-READ ALL OF IT. When you get ready to start mixing, pick 2 or 3 recipes that sound good and buy the flavors for those. It's a lot easier and less expensive than buying a slew of flavors that sound great but don't play well with others. Enjoy!

Hey! I love the purple pax! The only accessories I use are rubbing alcohol, cotton pipe cleaners, and alcohol wipes. Oh, and lubricant. I did an Internet search for the lubricant, it's propylene glycol. I found a pint of it on amazon for $8. (That will last forever.)

http://www.amazon.com/Propylene-Glycol-Pint-Free-Shipping/dp/B005F5KYM4

Here is a video on how to apply the lubricant. I tend to lube it after every cleaning.

http://youtu.be/W6-IcN6segw

Every pax comes with a small amount of cleaning supplies, but they really didn't last long for me. Cleaning is a little tedious, but it vapes so much more easily when it's clean. Here is a good video about how to clean it.

http://youtu.be/Cowj6W1qxjQ

I find that 10 days is the absolute longest I can go without cleaning it, and that's with daily use. And honestly, I should probably tend to it more like once a week.

Regarding cute accessories, there are some really cute pouches for Pax on etsy!

https://www.etsy.com/market/pax_vaporizer_case

Good luck with whatever you decide to go with! :) sorry for all the links, I'm on my ipad and watching The World's End and can't bring myself to do proper formatting right now) ;)

First, watch this, then come back: How to make your own E-Liquid : Mixing by Weight - DIY Tutorial I hate youtube tutorials, and I still recommend this, so seriously, watch it.

Now, a warning. You can spend a tiny amount to start DIY, or you can just take the plunge and spend a good chunk, but be set for a while and the cost per ml drops even more.

So you'll need supplies. Other than nicotine and flavorings, Amazon works pretty well.

• Pipettes For adding nicotine, everything else we'll put in squeeze bottles.
  
• Scale
  
• VG
  
• PG
  
  I put my PG and VG into some squeeze bottles I found at wal-mart for $0.97. Makes dispensing them super easy (just like in the video). You can also find them on Amazon for slightly more, but Walmart is on the way to work, so I just stopped there.
  
  I put my flavors into dripper bottles, which I got from Heartland Vapes, but that only works if you want 100+. Free shipping is at $75, so I also threw flavors into my orders, since I'd need them anyway. Personally, I started with single flavor juices that I knew I'd like. I ordered a lot from MtBakerVapor, and most of their flavors are just single flavor FlavorWest (FW) stuff, so I grabbed them. I made those for a month, then I started buying more flavors (like my favorite, TFA Chai). Now I'm adding more flavors into my juices, judging on what I think would work well (it doesn't always). Start simple, then build on what you learn.
  
  Buy some nicotine from your preferred vendor, if you want nicotine in your juice.
  
  Then wait impatiently while USPS loses your package in San Diego, CA, during which you can download the calculator and experiment with it. The bottom calculator on the side bar is amazing. Now you're going, "Crap, I gotta weigh my liquids!". Well, not really. You can take the specific gravities off the manufacturer data sheets (sometimes there, sometimes right, don't trust the ones from FW), google them, or ask here and someone probably has them. Or, you can use the built-in weights for PG and VG, and then set your flavors to 1ml = 1g. It's close enough.
  
  Most of all, remember to have fun.
  
  Quick tip: Better not enough flavor than too much. Too much flavoring mutes the flavor, not enhances, and spearmint burns your lips when you add too much. You can always add more, you can't take away.
  

The only way I clean my chain is taking it off entirely and putting it into https://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-Professional-Ultrasonic-Cleaning-Eyeglasses/dp/B00HZVYAVM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1466917068&sr=8-3&captcha_verified=1&&linkCode=ll1&tag=zvnfhlebcd-20&linkId=79dfc5fc5c178effaf6c8cc181f80787 one of these with whatever cleaner you like, I've used a citrus degrease and simple green, both seemed great. Nothing has done as good of a job.

Once clean and dry, I drop the chain https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Teflon-Bicycle-Chain/dp/B001C65JTI/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&dpID=41o1%2B61WiNL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL320_SR228%2C320_&refRID=K1R5QAN4QBMDASZA7E1S&linkCode=ll1&tag=zvnfhlebcd-20&linkId=234fed43a001a1ff9268cc524ceea17e into this and shake the chain around with the lid on tight. I then hang the chain over the container with the ends of the chain just over the opening of the bottle, a funnel can help here but I never needed it.

Chains come out super clean, extremely well lubricated, and I absolutely love this lube. The only thing I've liked better is paraffin wax in certain respects but much sooner reapplication is needed which can be annoying.

You can fit cassettes in these ultrasonic cleaners as well, does a great job.

Raves:

Andalou Naturals Acai + White Tea Oil Free Moisturizer: It's lightweight, non-greasy, doesn't contain fatty alcohols (pore-clogging for some) and has great ingredients (antioxidants, anti-irritants & skin-repairing agents). I really like it.

New Purchases:

Devita Natural Skin Care Acne Solution Pads: I found these on iHerb. I was excited about the ingredients. Unfortunately, the pH is 5 according to my pH strips so it's NOT an effective BHA. I'll use these on my body and I will not repurchase.

GoW Salicylic Acid 2% Pads: I use these nightly to exfoliate. These are gentle (slight, transient tingle) and super moisturizing. The pH is 4 according to my pH strips so it's an effective BHA. I like them so far.

GoW Majik Anti-Popup Blemish Gel: I bought this because I'm curious about Azeloyl Glycine (a derivative of Azelaic Acid) and Niacinamide. I'm not sure about the coconut cream for my oily, acne-prone skin. I'll use it as a nightly spot treatment to deter blemishes.

GoW Enriched Oat Facial Serum: I bought this because my skin responds well to DIY oat flour masks when irritated. I'll use this to an an anti-inflammatory serum after MUAC chemical peels.

MUAC 25% Mandelic Acid Peel: I can't wait to try this to fade PIH from acne. It should be gentle and effective on my deep brown skin (Fitzpatrick V). I think it'll help acne as well. I'll use it weekly for the first two peels then use it every four days.

JJ Labs Skin Solutions Vitamin C Serum 25% with Hyaluronic Acid: I bought this from Etsy after seeing it on an Into the Gloss 'Top Shelf' post. It has a light gel-like texture, is non-greasy and moisturizing. The pH is 3 according to my pH strips so it's an effective vitamin C product. I'll use this this nightly.

Tips.

1. I don't recommend a kit, but that's just me.
   
2. Mix by weight. Buy this scale https://www.amazon.com/American-Weigh-Scales-LB-501-Digital/dp/B005UGBG20/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1474497797&sr=8-3&keywords=Digital+scale&refinements=p_89%3ADigital+Scale%7CAmerican+Weigh+Scales. The 500g one, not the others. You want 0.01g precision.
   
3. Don't buy random flavors. Pick one or two juices over at http://e-liquid-recipes.com that sound good to you and have a good rating. Buy the flavors to make those.
   
4. Buy your VG and PG here. https://www.amazon.com/Glycerin-Vegetable-Kosher-USP-Quart/dp/B004C7MTLA/ref=sr_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1474497923&sr=8-2&keywords=vegetable+glycerine and https://www.amazon.com/Essential-Depot-Propylene-Glycol-Quart/dp/B005F5OJG6/ref=pd_sim_121_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=D735R4MZTM0WJN6VZ840
   
5. Get some pipettes. Plastic Transfer Pipettes 1ml, Graduated, Pack of 500 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CD2I50/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_77W4xb3TT4MQX
   
6. Get good nicotine. I like Carolina Xtracts and Nude Nicotine
   
7. Read everthing here. https://www.reddit.com/r/DIY_eJuice/wiki/diy_beginners_guide
   
8. Read the everything here. https://www.reddit.com/r/DIY_eJuice/comments/3lu9gx/nicotine_need_to_know_all_your_questions_answered/
   
9. Read eveything here. https://www.reddit.com/r/DIY_eJuice/wiki/verified_vendors
   
10. Watch this. https://youtu.be/EMEY5L46b18
    
11. Wear protective gloves if you buy high percentage nicotine solution!
    
12. Enjoy your freedom. You're right, it is fun to do. And easy. My wife calls it vaking :)
    

I have been getting my PG and VG from Amazon. Its cheap and if you have prime it gets there super fast.

I use the essential depot VG, and PG. I get them quarts at a time for like 11-13 bucks apiece and that shit lasts a long time. You will go through more VG than PG usually.

I used to get my nicotine from wizard labs but I recently started using nude nicotine, I recommend it. In the DIY sub youll see a shit ton of vendors and a bunch of brands people swear by. Thats the part that can be overwhelming.

you can get bottles so many fucking places, if you just want a few amazon will do you right, wizard labs has em. Lately I have been just getting them from fasttech cause they are decent bottles (plastic) and they are cheap as fuck. when searching for bottles a good tip to have is 1/2oz bottles are 15mls and 1oz bottles are 30mls,

https://www.onestopdiyshop.com/ is a pretty awesome place.
http://wholesale.heartlandvapes.com/ is nice too.

For just starting you dont need much, PG, VG, NIc, Bottles, Flavors, Get a couple of 1ml and 3ml Syringes, and some 14g needle tips for VG based shit, and 18G tips for PG based shit.

My mixes are mostly VG, so I get my nicotine in VG Carrier base. I think I have pretty much covered most beginner info. I hope you decide to check it out its pretty rewarding and fucking fun.

Come hang out, Lurk about or whatever


I forgot you will also want to use a ejuice calculator, I use the POTV ejuice calculator on my phone it works well and its free. Its in the Android and iOs store. Peace!

For airbrushes, I'm personally a fan of the Neo by Iwata, especially their gravity feed (cup) model. The brush is well built, fairly easy to take apart and clean, and has very few issues with most paints and other products you may put through it.

I picked mine up on sale for around $50, and if you have a Michael's or Hobby Lobby nearby, you may be able to pick it for less with one of their one-item coupons they release occasionally. It's also nice if you have a hobby store near by as you can drop in a pick up replacement needles or nibs if you accidentally drop it >.>; . Needles and nibs typically cost in the 10-15 dollar range for replacements, so not too terrible.

For compressors, a simple compressor with a tank will work wonderfully, so long as it has a proper pressure regulator and water trap. I have this compressor and it works well, after I got the correct airbrush hose to attach to the NEO.

There are a couple extra tools that can help with airbrushing as well, but most can be picked up at a later point. Something I would recommend that you get with the initial purchase is a spray booth. This allows you a place to spray into and capture many of the errant particles of paint from your airbrush. Combined with a proper respirator mask, it will ensure that you don't breath in any of the particulate from airbrushing, and hopefully don't have airbrush paints drying on items they weren't directly sprayed on. I would say of the two, the mask is the most important to have.

A quick-disconnect is useful for cleaning and swapping airbrushes, but isn't really necessary at first. A cleaning pot is also useful as it gives you a dedicated space to spray out leftover paint and cleaing fluid, and should stay fairly contained.

I would also look at purchasing a ultrasonic cleaner further on, as it is amazingly helpful for cleaning the airbrush when paint has leaked into the body, or spilled into places it shouldn't be.

Other's can probably offer advice as well, but that's what I currently use. Hope this helps!

Superglue doesn't work very well. Loctite 404 is the best I've found of the cyanoacrylates, but it tops out at "okay," unless you're willing to put in a lot of surface prep.

ABS glue works great, though it can be a pain to use. You want to make your own: get some acetone and some ABS. Undyed pellets are best, like this: https://www.amazon.com/IC3D-Printer-Plastic-Pellets-Natural/dp/B00MG5PF5M/ , though you should be able to find cheaper. Put some pellets in a small jar, and add acetone. You're probably looking to end up around 2 parts acetone to 1 part pellets by volume, but you can adjust it pretty far either way. Mix them together through a combination of stirring and shaking. This will take a while, and you'll probably need to let them soak periodically. They won't dissolve all the way without mixing, and they wont mix without soaking, so it's just going to take a while. Eventually though, you'll have a good that you can brush or squirt onto PLA to make it stick together. I mostly use mine with an industrial syringe, with a pin in the needle to keep a channel open. It's easy to dispense, and fairly convenient. For large applications or for painting onto a bed, I use acid brushes.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NEUC8SK/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DXPRTHG/

You can also weld pieces together with a dremel. This is a very good join for large pieces, especially with straight seams, but can be rough for detail work. There's a description here: http://www.scorchworks.com/Blog/friction-welding-with-a-dremel-rotary-tool/

Sorry for the slow response.

That is good your budget is flexible and you want to do it right from the start.

I think the tent is a good choice, and you have lots of vertical height which is great. Are you in a grow friendly state? The reason I ask is they might have some sales at local hydroponic and gardening stores that you might consider. Your plant will have at least a foot above it for clearance from the light and a foot below where you've got your pot. So your actual plant will probably just be around 4 feet tall.

I know a lot of people in america use fox farms soil and the fox farms nutrient line up. Seems to be successful. I am going a slightly more organic method using General Organics nutrients and pro mix with some compost as my soil. The fox farms soil has starting food in it while the pro mix is inert, which means full control of the food for the grower but less of a safety net for the plant if you mess it up.


There is a lot of options when it comes to food, each company has a ton of products. To get you going though I would just use the vegatative food and the flowering food. And some calmag. Everything else is just optional and you can always use next time.

Once you've got your medium and food sorted, you'll want to be able to check your ph levels.


Also grab some of the bottles of ph up and down so you can adjust it accordingly before you feed your ladies.

You'll need a tent to fit your space, I would browse amazon for deals and base your decision on their reviews!

As for what pots to use, I started using fabric pots and they are great. They allow for less over watering because the medium can breathe more easily. You'll want to start in 4 inch pots, then maybe to a gallon, then 3 gallons, perhaps all the way to 5 if you want. Kinda depends on how many plants you decide to keep? I grow small numbers and big plants.

After that you've just got to decide on lighting and ventilation. I don't know a lot about LEDs except that it cuts down on electricity and heat. Some people invest in american companies but they can be quite expensive. A popular method is just ordering cheap LED fixtures from china and not worrying too much if they break because they are so cheap.

/u/Legal_In_OR might stop by here to give some LED advice. He uses top of the line LEDS but I am wondering if he has insight on some of the cheaper options to get you going.




We also have lots of useful information on our website. http://www.herbgrow.co/


Feel free to ask more questions.

I got my stuff in 18 days ago, and its been fantastic. I ended up spending ~$120, but I figured if I was going to do it I might as well do it right. Got a quart of PG and VG, bottles, gloves (definitely get gloves), nic, lots of syringes. Got different flavorings from wizardlabs. (You can see a list and some links here.) If you get bottles, this is a great deal.

Anyhow, not too far in, but I've been loving it. Make whatever concentration nic juice I want, been mixing small batches and still have a long ways to go. Its going to take forever to try different combinations, but I made a menthol strawberry last night that kicks some ass. Its nice having pretty much unlimited supply and being able to just try something out, and if it doesn't taste good its np because its cheap as hell.

Anyway, if you root around on /r/DIY_eJuice you'll prolly see that you should start with small % of flavor, but if you miss that, here it is again. I've been doing ~5-6% flavor and its pretty nice. I'm sure people have different tastes, and certain flavors may come out better at different concentrations, but start low and work your way up so you stay sensitive to them!

edit: got a dripping atomizer too, but I find that setting up an RBA with a tiny wick works best for trying new flavors. You only get a couple hits per drip, but you can just try burn it to clean out the juice.

Unable? Not so my friend! You just need to keep it sorta roomtemp as I understand. I personally keep mine in a fridge, but that's unnecessary I think. I use a small dark glass bottle, that holds 30ml - which I drop a tab into, and then use a blunted syringe to extract 1.5ml–3ml per dose (depending how much I want that day).

Volumetric is a WAY WAY better way of doing it than cutting up tabs. I'm sure if your bedroom is even a remotely normal room temp your little bottle will be just fine in a drawer or something.

The dark glass bottle, and the syringes (science/non medical type) are available on amazon for not too much money.

— Here is the type of bottle I have (these are very very nice, you could probably get away with a cheaper one, but hey, it's nice to have nice things :)

https://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Jars-Travel-Ultraviolet-Screwtop/dp/B00N5FLUYC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502672177&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=infinity+jar&psc=1

Measurement:
https://www.amazon.com/Duda-Energy-Syringepk010-Industrial-Syringes/dp/B00DXPRTHG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502672271&sr=8-1&keywords=Duda+Energy+Syringepk010+Industrial+Syringes+with+15G+x+1-1%2F2%22+Blunt+Tip+Fill


Math is easy. If you put a tab say a 100ug tab into 30ml of water, then if you take 3ml of that water, you would be getting 10% of that tab. 5—15% is usually a good amount, and you might find that less works better for you.

The ALD52 I have is 125ug per tab. So 125ug in 30ml of distilled water means that 3ml of solution equals 12.5ug of a dose - and often, I take half of that, so only 1.5ml of soultion.

I don't know how well I can answer your questions, as I'm new to lead issues and abatement. You've probably educated yourself on a lot of what I'm going to say, but I'm going to throw it all in this comment, anyway.

I live in a 110 year old house that is basically a ball of lead. The plumbing had lead joints, the service line is old and lead, the windows have lead, the doors have lead, the walls have lead, and the city is concerned that our water mains are shedding lead. And now, my child has a very slightly elevated lead level. Prompted by her most recent blood test, we are attempting a sensible lead abatement plan for our home.

First, figure out where the lead is. You can pick up water testing kits as well as swabs for surfaces. Once you know where the lead is, you can assess your risk and choose an abatement plan.

For instance, we have a small amount of lead in our water, which is likely a consequence of the service line. We got a bid for replacing it, and that was about $10k, plus the cost of fixing the yard that would be torn up. We went with a 10 year filter for the whole house, and that was about $900 including tax and installation.

Use the surface swabs on your windows that were installed before 1980, and if you have woodwork that was painted white, check that, too. It became popular to paint dark woodwork white in the 50s/60s to brighten up houses, and people used lead paint. We have solid wood doors and a ton of trim that is absolutely smothered in many coats of paint, and sure enough, it's super leady.

With windows, the act of opening and closing the windows can cause friction on the paint, which produces inhalable dust. If your family isn't experiencing significantly elevated lead levels, you have the option to simply wipe down the windows with a damp cloth to remove the dust. If you are more concerned, have the budget, or just want new windows, you can replace them. Check to see if your local municipality has a lead abatement grant for windows. In my city, they offer a $350/window grant to replace windows that test positive for lead (along with a few other qualifiers), and that really puts a dent in that cost.

With other painted surfaces, you're likely to be fine with encapsulation, which is a fancy way of saying painting over it. Lead is only really dangerous if you inhale the dust or eat the chips, so if you paint over it, it can't create dust. This will likely mean that you'll need to do a little scraping, which will obviously create dust, so you need to use a quality mask, and then clean like mad when you are done. Wet mop, dry dusting/sweeping is not good enough.

I'm in the process of restoring the woodwork because I prefer a stained finish, and for all the trim that isn't especially decorative or historically significant, I'm just replacing it. For our lovely doors, I sent them out to be dip stripped because it just wasn't worth the risk of my daughter sucking in all the dust while I removed the paint.

Because I have a young child, I'm not fucking around with lead, but the majority of people with lead paint in their homes are going to be just fine if they don't sand lead paint, carefully wipe up the dust with a wet cloth in areas that have lead paint (like windows), and prime/paint over the lead paint.

I built this for about $20 (not including the erlenmeyer and the stir bar).

I got the cigar box a while back at a second hand store.

Here's the USB powered PC fan I used:
http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Mobile-Fan-External-Cooling/dp/B00080G0BK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1381376532&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+pc+fan

I chose a usb fan so that I could power it with an android usb phone charger and not screw around with splicing wires.

Here's the magnets I used (just needed one though):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B1M37MY/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Aside from that it just took a few odd nuts, washers, and a bit of superglue. I had to bore the hole in top of the cigar box because the box turned out to be a bit too thick (sorry Pepin Garcia!) to get enough attraction between the magnet and the stir bar. I think I might have had better luck with stronger magnets or a different stir bar but oh well.

As someone suggested I first glued a washer to the fan so that I could move the magnet around a but to find the sweet spot where it didn't shake too bad then I glued the washer in place.

I used the long bolts/nuts that came with the fan to attach it to the lid (you can see the bolts in the first picture). Between the top of the fan and the lid I had to add washers to keep the fan from rubbing on the cigar box.

That's pretty much it. The fan has a variable speed control but I get a small vortex on the lowest setting, and higher settings throws the bar off the magnet.

Now I just need to wait for my soda preforms to show up so I can start saving a bit more yeast after I use the stir plate!
http://www.amazon.com/Soda-Bottle-Preforms-Caps-30/dp/B008MB1QNY/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1381377304&sr=1-1&keywords=bottle+preforms

I got the idea for using the soda preforms from here:
http://www.mikebeer.net/reuseyeast.htm

Cheers

I've worked for a retail jeweler for years in the past. Just walk into a jeweler and ask them to clean it, they will clean it free. When I was working there our main idea to keep people in the store to try and sell something was to offer to clean all the jewelry they had on and while they sit in the machine cleaning we would offer our help. But you dont have to be helped if you just want it cleaned.

Get on Amazon and buy some Gemoro cleaner. Or buy a machine, it shocks all the dirt and crud off here is a cheap one that will work, or give you an idea of what you want, if you want to do it at home. Just let it sit in machine for a minute to a couple mins depending on how dirty it is. But if you buy the machine please buy the cleaner chemicals to go with it so it will clean properly. You mix the chemicals with water based on the chemical brands instructions. Be sure to do some googling on what stones and metals can go into those machines. Stones like opal are precious, soft stones, that should not be placed in those machines. A lot of birthstones shouldnt be placed in those machines. They will discolor them and ruin them.

Edit: If its diamonds and real gold wear it whenever you want. The only thing that will degrade is the gold. But you can "re-dip" the gold whenever it starts to degrade or discolor. White gold will become more "matte" or not as shiny. When it comes to that just spend 25-40 bucks on dipping it. Yellow gold will start to turn into a white gold color, so dip it then. With yellow gold there is silver metals mixed into it so that's why itll turn white-ish after a while.

I hope this helps you. I recommended the machine incase you dont want to be hassled in the jewelry store, they're ruthless because sales are low 98 percent of the year. I recommend going to a local jeweler because you're helping your local community jeweler stay in business and they wont bombard you like retail will, like with credit card applications and all the bs. Good luck and congratulations!

Edit 2: Also, if its gold and diamonds, dont be so tough on yourself. Just was your hands in public with the ring on. Dont risk loosing it or forgetting it because you hear people say it messes the ring up or whatever cause of soap. It really wont mess it up like that. Just take it off when you put on lotion, sunscreen, etc.

First head over to /r/microdosing to get a more detailed answer or broader answers to microdosing. I'll give it a go though.

So tolerance for LSD is something like after 2 weeks you get back to baseline where 100μg = 100μg. Refer to this. In the case on microdosing, we seem to come to the conclusion that the tolerance effect of such a small dose is incredibly low. So low in fact that daily use for a while will still incur similar effects. Though I'm not sure how long that can last.

To compensate for this it is recommended to have a routine of 3/4 days between the doses, this is mostly to minimise the build of tolerance (no matter how little it is). This works incredibly well for some. You can find the right way for yourself.

We do not know how tolerance to LSD works but in the case of microdosing there is no need to increase doses - if you're going the daily route - as this would increase the perceptual effects which you do not want. Keeping to a set dose also keeps the effects in line with what to expect, avoiding cases of racing thoughts, body temperature fluctuations and other effects. But I recommend not doing this. Go for the every few days and keep the dose similar once your find that sweet spot.

On top of all of that dosing is an important factor so cutting up a tab is not recommended as the tab may not be dosed equally. To get around this using a method called volumetric dosing is advised. Here's a guide on how to do that. Using less distilled water can be done if your use a pipette to dose, one like this for example.

All in all I have to admit I love microdosing. It has helped me out incredibly. I vouch for it and would love the idea to spread. I would caution any person doing it though to keep within their limits and follow a regime they construct themselves or someone has recommended, say Dr Fadiman.

Edit. My link to Dr Fadiman's letter is being flagged for spam. Great. It's at the bottom of this article.

I recommend this and these
It’s a set of vials and syringes. I would recommend getting a vial holder as well. That way, you have all the vials in one places and are not as likely to spill. The vials are nice because you can test small batch mixtures. Label the tops of the vials and keep a notebook. Rhodia is good or something else that can show off sheen. This way, you can more down the vial designation, the proportions, the inks used and what the resulting color looks like.

Another thing you would want to learn about is color therapy because a cool yellow mixed with a warm blue will give you a different green than a warm yellow mixed with a cool blue. Rot dye has a great mixing chart that is a wonderful resource for color mixing.

Beyond that, different inks interact and react in sometimes unexpected ways when mixed, which is another reason to have small vials to see what the reactions are and if the ink start to separate or do something else unusual.

Honestly? You will screw up once or twice when you first start, but generally, it's a fairly easy process and you'll save yourself a lot of money in the long run by doing it yourself.

Just to give you an idea of how I do it, here are the items I use. If you have Amazon Student/Prime, it'll be even easier:

• 26mm palette (this one is $19/3)
  
  
• Pipettes
  
  
• Jojoba oil
  
  
• Double-ended spatula
  
  
• Alcohol (I believe mine is 70%, but I'm not able to check on that. Either way, if you're living in a dorm, this is something you may want to have anyways in a first aid kit)
  
  For me, I mix it in small tupperware (obviously, I don't use this for storing food at anymore). For 2 small packets of Shiro samples (or even a minijar (both of which fit comfortably in the aforementioned palette)), I use a mixture of no more than 3 drops of jojoba oil and use alcohol to mix it into a paste, of which I then place into the aluminum palette.
  
  You don't want to use an excessive amount of the oil because then it will almost never dry and dilute the color. Whereas, alcohol evaporates out faster so you want to use more of the alcohol than the jojoba oil (or whatever binding solution you choose). Once it gets dried down to a certain point, you can press if you choose to, but I never feel I need to when I do it this way because it's generally pretty uniform.
  
  I know dorm rooms are crampy, but you can do this anywhere once you get the hang of it and for cheaper than having someone else do it (especially if you take into consideration the excessive shipping costs--which will be more than the cost of what you'd be using for some of these products alone).
  
  ETA: Added details.

I get mine from Amazon, but I also use a lot of tubes. Instead of inking up my pens from bottles, I only use sample vials (or something like a TWSBi inkwell for my larger pens). It's a great way to avoid contamination of your ink. We live in a pretty moldy area, so I"m always concerned about fuzz on the pens syndrome.

Note: there are other types of tubes that are on eBay, but these cryotubes are by far the best. The other clear ones can't have 5ml unless you fill it to the brim, making a mess of things. These tubes are exactly like the ones sold on Goulet pens, only it has blue lids instead of clear.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074QKMF2G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you'd like a rack for your sample vials, here's a link to the one that I purchased. It is identical to hte ones sold on Goulet.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005Z4QWIK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Glad you asked! One thing we have to remember about Prime is that it does not remove the ammonia, it just renders it harmless. So the result is a "false positive" on standard ammonia tests. It will still be there but it is no longer harming your fish.

If you would like peace-of-mind you can get a Free vs Total Ammonia test kit. This kit allows you to measure the amounts of Free (harmful) ammonia vs. the Total (harmless once Prime is involved).

Even if you aren't going to get some, read the description on Amazon. It is really helpful in understanding Ammonia chemistry.

For measuring ANYTHING for your aquarium, go to your local drugstore pharmacy (Even Walmart pharmacies will do this) and ask them for free syringes. They are absolutely AWESOME for measuring anything that takes very small measurements such as Prime. If for whatever reason you can't get some for free from a drug store, order a set like this. I use the 1ml and 5ml syringes every single day.

Edit: I suck at spelling....

look on amazon, between the item description and the "questions ask/answered" section regarding the product, i have seen some where this information is provided. 0.1ml is the amount delivered from one i saw i believe.

-

I recommend this one... it's 30ml but EASILY fits into your pocket.

-

the glass one here is much better then the plastic one from the same company, and i'm relatively sure it delivers 0.1ml per squirt

-

To make sure, simply fill it with an amount of water measured using an oral syringe (available for free at almost all pharmacys, just ask the pharmacist, say that your little brother got some medicine that requires one for measurement and needs it... though i prefer ones with a long blunt tip, available on amazon as well [here's the 10ml ones i often use and love] (https://www.amazon.com/Duda-Energy-Syringepk010-Industrial-Syringes/dp/B00DXPRTHG/ref=nav_ya_signin?ie=UTF8&qid=1467798872&sr=8-2&keywords=10+ml+blunt+tip+syringe&)

-

and [here's some 1ml ones] (https://www.amazon.com/Duda-Energy-Syringepk001-Industrial-Syringes/dp/B00NDETMR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467798956&sr=8-1&keywords=1ml+blunt+tip+syringe) that i got but haven't tried yet, they reviewed well though

I'm also on a cistern and use commercial whole-house filters in 2 stages. Stage 1 is a "pre-clean" sediment filter and stage 2 is a carbon filter that helps remove cysts and odors. The pre-filtering helps the more expensive carbon filters last longer. I also have an automatic chlorinator and contact tank for added disinfection (could also use UV) and a RO filter for drinking water. The RO is overkill since water tests fine from the tap (good idea to test periodically!), but peace of mind and all. To maintain a good flow rate, I use 2 filters in parallel for each stage (4 total). It's all easily put together with PVC. I don't have first flush and water can get pretty dirty, but after filtering it's very clean and odor free. Filters typically last about 3 months before the pressure drops too low (for 2 people, so maybe 1 month for you?) and have to be replaced. High efficiency sink and shower fittings help reduce water usage and the effects of the lower pressure. I have the pump run up to 60psi to max out the filter life.

• Filter housings - I like the clear ones to see how dirty filters are getting and also shows how much filth the filters are capturing. Might want to pick up a couple extra housings since they need to be cleaned and cleaning is much easier with running water. I also use gasket grease and a filter wrench (they can get tight).
  
  
• Sediment filter - stage 1
  
  
• Carbon filter - stage 2 - The 0.5 micron removes cysts (things that can make you sick like Giardia and Cryptosporidium)
  
  
• Test kit
  
  
• Shower head
  
  
  
  

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-824-1L-Isopropyl-Alcohol/dp/B005DNQX3C

It looks like it was in a flood or fire. Odds are the person turned it on and fried it. Your best bet is to save the cpu, the gpus by stripping them down. The motherboard is cheap to get, the ram is probably indestructible... forget the psu exists. You need to really clean the parts well to get the contaminants off. Head to walmart and get gallon jugs of distilled water, and just clean it really really well.

Do you have access to a large ultrasonic cleaner? Fill it with isopropyl and turn it on outside (so there's no fire and explosion risk).

After you use the alcohol to drive the water out, I would clean the gpus twice as the ram is bga, and get a can of pcb contact cleaner and blast it with that when totally done.

I'm pretty sure you can salvage the gpus if the caps are solid caps.

Keep us posted, this looks like fun.

Inventory:

• [Jojoba oil (cold pressed is important to keep the nutrients)] (http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00VSH7LAG)
  
• Essential oils sampler
  
• 100pk Pipettes for more precise measuring and to avoid cross-contamination of oils
  
• Amber dropper bottles to contain the mixes and protect against excess light
  
  This is my first shot at this, but it seems like a cool passive hobby that'll also augment my facefur. I already plan to expand by getting a couple other carrier oils to balance out the jojoba—particularly either some grape seed or avocado oil and perhaps some Vitamin E.
  
  Questions? Comments? Concerns? Suggestions?
  
  * I'd also be remiss if I didn't mention there's a subreddit specifically for this (of course there is) at /r/beardoil. I'm gonna start posting in the hopes of livening it up a bit—if you're interested in picking this up as a hobby, come join me!

All? Every store in my area has a water refill station. In my area it's near the coffee section. I'm not sure how much it costs, but it's way cheaper than buying bottled water.

That being said, why not just get water from the tap? If you're worried your water might be unsafe (most likely it's just fine), then test it. A quick search found this affordable test kit, which will tell you if you need to get a more comprehensive test done. Most likely you'll be well within safe standards and can safely use your city water.

Personally, I use a filter at home because I don't like the taste of our water. We have hard water, and there are still traces of something after our water softener. Our water is perfectly safe to drink, but a filter makes it much more palatable, so we use one. It's way cheaper than bottled water and way more convenient.

Do you ever plan on doing 5 gallon batches? If you have the space it will be more cost effective to just go for a full size keging system. Mini kegs are going to cost you roughly what a new 5 gallon keg will.

That said if it's only a one-off thing you could use some 2 liter bottles and get yourself a co2 tank and regulator and a carbonation cap and force carb that way, it won't be on "tap" but it will be force carbonated.. and you can keep it carbonated if you leave the cap on and top off the bottle with co2 each time you pour from it.


If you have nothing then you'll need a regulator I have this one: (taprite t742hp primary double gauge co2 regulator, brass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UZUJ22/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_auBCDbBPZ3V0H)

A co2 tank, something like this: (5lb co2 tank- new aluminum cylinder with cga320 valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HQQ3WWE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BvBCDbXPB33KP)

Some 5/16 tubing l, and a ball lock gas disconnect like this (5/16" gas line assembly - ball lock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064OI77Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6wBCDbSWZWMNY)

And a carbonation cap like this : (stainless carbonation cap counter pressure bottle filling with 5/16" barb，co2 coupling to carbonate soda beer fruit juice water https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K4GGYT0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BxBCDbK0V3J35)




I also have this regulator for my mobile mini keg set-up: Ultimate CO2 Regulator works with 5 types of CO2 tanks (0-50psi) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071J9FKVD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nABCDbQWF87S3
It works great and I use it with a soda stream co2 tank which are a little pricey for how much co2 you get but they're convenient and available everywhere. This makes a nice compact system since you don't have the big regulator and big co2 tank.

They do still make the Provari, and even have the older versions. And they're still expensive! But if you're willing to invest it really is exactly what you describe wanting for the way you vape, minus the TC stuff. And they really do last. I beat on mine for a year and a half and only stopped using it when I "upgraded" to higher output but worse made devices.

The corrosion and gunk issues you've described would explain the resistance variance you've observed. Electrical connections really want to be clean. Even oxidation or corrosion you can't see will have an effect. If you can see it, it will likely have a major effect. I'd suggest a simple ultrasonic cleaner and some scrubbing. I have this $40 model and it works a treat: http://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-Professional-Ultrasonic-Instruments-MGUC500/dp/B007Q2M17K

If you want to get super serious about cleaning (and you might want to!) grab some of this to go with: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F1SCU4/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B007Q2M17K&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=05BD3DRA83NHH7PY2V62

And you're right. I know people who keep the same Ecig for years, and I know people who post about ecigs on the internet, but not anybody who does both. Good on yah for actually getting your money's worth out of your gear! I hope you can find something that'll hold up. I will say that my authentic Kayfun didn't degrade the way you describe, and I had it for a year. You might try and figure if yours is authentic or not.

This is an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner its under 30$ and works really well, you can use this to clean all your vape stuff and it takes very little effort. I highly suggest looking into getting one, it will save you a LOT of time and effort, and really works a lot better anyway, best of luck to you and happy vaping :)

https://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-Professional-Ultrasonic-Eyeglasses-MGUC500/dp/B007Q2M17K

On that starter kit you mentioned... It's fine, but it isn't the best route if you think you might stick with this.

First up, read up on mixing by weight. /u/Botboy141 has a fantastic write up on it. It ends up being cheaper and faster long term versus mixing with syringes. Take into account that you should use different syringes for each flavor and you'll have to clean them after use... The cleaning murders the time mixing and that kit doesn't have many syringes, so you'll be cleaning a lot.

A break down for you on mixing by weight... It isn't 100% I'd bet, but it should be close enough.
Scale: 16.99 http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0012TEQMG - this is the one I have, but the auto shut off is a friggin annoyance. Pick up the one Botboy141 recommends for the extra 14 or so dollars. So let's go with 30
Pipettes: 10.00 for 500 1ml. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005CD2I50
10 for 200 3ml (you can probably find a better price) - http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005IQTSE0
Dispensing bottles x2: 7.00 http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B5139AG
Pg: 13.00 http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005F5OJG6
Vg: 13.00 http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004C7MTLA
Nicotine: 100mg/120ml 19.00 http://www.nudenicotine.com/product/500ml-100mgml-100-pg-nicotine-base-for-mixing-only/ 50 30ml ldpe bottles: 11.00 http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F098JJA

$113, call it 130 with some shipping here and there.

Now add flavors, assuming you get 50 bucks of 8ml vials from wizard labs and you're running closer to 200. This will get you a good bunch of juice and the next time around you'll probably get 4oz bottles of your favorite flavors and maybe some more pg vg nic and possibly pipettes. It's worth the money, but syringes will be cheaper up start costs. You'd probably save about 70 bucks to start, but it'll cost you in frustration and time, which isn't worth the pain from all I remember with them.
Edit: I say wizard only because of the sample size of the vials... You can use bull city, tfa and lorann direct for 4oz and up on a bunch, or any other vendor really. But 50 in wizard with shipping will probably get you 25 or 30 vials.

Syringes will take away the scale and dispensing bottles and pipettes, so 60 bucks actually, and you'll add about 30 back in a bunch of 1ml, a few 3 or 5 and a couple of 10 for pg/vg and14ga blunt needles.

Hopefully that helps a bit. I can reformat it later on the computer if need be.

You shouldn't have a problem with Solferino. I had that in my Pelikan M1005 for a few weeks and didn't have a problem (other than the little area in the section near the nib, but that's specific to the physical design of that pen).

If you really want to make sure that your demonstrators are kept clean, learn how to disassemble them and consider investing in a cheap ultrasonic jewelry cleaner (I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZVYAVM/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485818656&sr=sr-1&keywords=ultrasonic) and it was a very worthwhile purchase for me (I want to keep my demonstrators clean and that M1005 is pretty tough).

Yeah, it can be difficult with gel. In that case I would-

• get some distilled water or vodka or both. Do not use tap water because it contains chlorine which can kill the LSD.
  
• Get a small bottle preferably an amber or dark colored or something that can block out light. (UV light can kill LSD as well.) Or if you can’t get one of those then you can wrap aluminum foil around a bottle to block out the light.
  
  Here are some amber bottles you can buy on Amazon with a measured dropper.- 3 Pack of 1oz Amber Glass Dropper Bottles (30mL) with Child Resistant Graduated Measurement Marked Glass Droppers::The Hemp Door LLC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SXJHKQH/
  
  If you don’t need a glass bottle but need a dropper you can get one of these.- Ezy Dose Straight Tip Glass Medicine Dropper (Calibrated) 1 mL https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0071S5Y46/
  
  If you want to get a precise measurement of the water or vodka then get a measuring cup that has milliliter measurements. Something like these.- Pixnor Measuring Cylinder Graduated Cylinder Lab Test Tube Set of 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019W5T4CS/
  
  Depending on how much LSD you have in those gel tabs I would recommend trying 20-30ml. (Those amber glass bottles can only hold 30 ml.) You’ll maybe want to use this calculator. - https://www.microdosingcalculator.org/
  
  
• Take one of the gel tabs of LSD and cut it up in 2-4 pieces. I would recommend wearing gloves so the lsd doesn’t get into your skin.
  
  
• Put the pieces of LSD in the bottle and pour the 20-30ml of distilled water or vodka or a mix of both. To help the gel dissolve quicker use warmer water or vodka and let it sit for 1 day in room temperature but keep it out of the light.
  
  
• To be on the safe side try taking only 0.5ml for your first dose in the early morning and try it on a day off from any important obligations or responsibilities to see how you feel and how you react to it.
  
  You shouldn’t feel much. If you feel too spacey or jittery then that means you might have taken too much. Wait 2 days and try a lower dose. (1 day on, 2 days off) If you didn’t feel anything then maybe try a little more the next time like 1ml. If you feel too spacey or jittery then go lower the next time. You have to find your sweet spot that’s right for you, where you just feel an over all good feeling to your day.
  
  After you’ve found the dose that’s right for you then you can continue doing the 1 day on, 2 days off or maybe try every other day.

Hey man, I would love to help you quit smoking and didn't notice the first time I commented that you didn't have any experience with vaping. So I'm going to try to put together a list here of what you need to do to start vaping for very little money.

1. A mod. I am suggesting this mod because it is very simple and fairly cheap.
   
   https://www.vapordna.com/Joyetech-eGo-AIO-All-In-One-Starter-Kit-p/egoaio.htm
   
   This is another option for you.
   
   https://www.vapordna.com/Eleaf-iCare-All-In-One-Ultra-Portable-System-p/icaref.htm
   
   I love my Icare, but you will need to use high (24-36) mg ejuice with it, whereas with the ego you would need 12-24 mg/ml.
   
   
2. Eliquid making basics.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005UGBG20/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488210602&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PSGWHIO/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1488210630&sr=8-2&keywords=vg
   
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01K8UB5VO/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1488210666&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=pg
   
   
   https://www.nudenicotine.com/product/500ml-100mgml-100-pg-nicotine-base-for-mixing-only/?attribute_size=120mL&attribute_solvent=100%25+PG
   
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0081SRRFO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488210749&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dropper+bottle
   
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005IQTSE0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488210793&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=pippettes+plastic+droppers
   
   OPTIONAL: flavoring. If you want flavoring just ask in a reply I'll let you know what to get based on your tastes, but it's not necessary and you're trying to go cheap.
   
   This is the recipe for making flavorless, 12 mg juice.
   
   http://e-liquid-recipes.com/recipe/1240996/For+cheapos
   
   You can make an account at that site and adapt that recipe to be higher or lower nicotine if you want.
   
   I know this seems a lot more expensive than the Ryo cigarettes, but trust me, this makes like a year or two worth of liquid and the mods I suggested have really cheap coils. Please believe me, this is worth every penny of the investment, you will never regret it. If you need help with mixing your first batch of eliquid, go to r/diy_ejuice and look at the new mixer thread in the sidebar. If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask me, but comment it cause I don't get message notifications on my phone app.

you need to get a ph meter: https://www.amazon.com/Jellas-Household-Hydroponics-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B00YBUH4RC/ref=lp_393271011_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1511300438&sr=1-3 will suffice.

I would recommend a water/nutrient pH of 6.4 for promix as it is a peat based media that is acidic. Meaning your pH should be about 6.2, but if you add 6.2 and hits the acidic peat, it will not be that anymore. Some people argue lower pH for soiless, but let me assure you that at 6.4 in results in a 5.6ish out. I personally think you are safe with a pH 5.4-6.2 out. What I mean by out is run-off, you need to feed enough liquid so that ~20% just drains through. Placing the pot in a pail during feeding/watering helps. This will drain extra salts.

Also, you should add perlite (1/3 volume) with promix as it can cause drainage problems and water retention if you don't. Think about that before you transplant. You may need to also add dolomite lime in the future. Read up on that please, just thinking ahead for you, and letting you avoid mistakes I had made. It doesn't take a lot, but helps to stabilize your pH and provides cal/mag.

>Not sure what EC means

It means Electroconductivity and refers to the salinity of your water.
Do you know how hard your water is? If its too hard, you need to dilute it with RO water. Some people just use RO water only, but supplement it with CalMag solution. If you don't know what's in your tap water, call the water department and ask them. They most probably posted your water analysis online.

Yur just lucky I'm feeling nice ;)

EDIT: And ffs quit giving them miracle grow!

My problem is its always easy to “if I have that it’s hardly any more to include this” myself into a monster pack

Mine is a 3.5 x 5.5 x 7” soft pack that weighs 30.5 oz

Contents:
Byrd Rescue 2 serrated knife
Pill case with Robax, Motrin, antihistamine.
1 roll each medical mesh tape, paper tape, electrical tape.
1 med ziplock freezer bag with a handful of bandaids.
Rite in the rain note pad.
Scissors (klien 2100-7, no idea where/why i got them but they’re a great size for this)
1 med ziplock freezer bag with 1 8x10” compress, 8 antiseptic wipes (provodine-iodine & benzalkonium chloride), 2x iodine ointment, 4x cool jel packets.
Small container with imodium, tiny tube of polysporrin, and a strip thermometer.
Small tube of Q tips.
Small tube with a dozen UCO stormproof matches.
Exotac nano striker.
Travel pack of tissues.
A pair of vinyl gloves (wrapped).
Tampon.
2x unlubed condoms (wow those expired a while ago).
Thumbprint 4 in 1 screwdriver
3x pairs of foam ear plugs (dont remember the reasoning but they weigh nothing)

Missing:
Gauze roll.
Unflavoured dental floss.
Large sewing needle.
Pen/pencil.
Tweezers.
Tick-key.
?


Bottle preforms are great small tubes for keeping things dry

https://www.amazon.com/Soda-Bottle-Preforms-Caps-30/dp/B008MB1QNY

For a while you could buy redbull shots. They were a great small container as well

edit:correcting formatting.
Edit 2: always put rolls of tape in a baggy. When theyre hot they can ooze adhesive and make your kit a mess

Purple Power / Super Clean diluted at about 1:1 with water, let it soak for a couple days in an airtight tub (Tupperware or something similar), then go at it with an old tooth brush and water. It wont get every nook and cranny, but I've been using this method to strip minis of acrylic paints and basecoats for years with great success.

If you're willing to spend a little more money, get a cheap sonic jewelry cleaner off of amazon (something like this will work well) and fill it with the same above mixture. Drop your minis into it, let it soak, turn it on for 2-3 mins every now and again, and save yourself most of the elbow grease. You'll likely still have to go at it with the toothbrush though to get some of the more stubborn spots, but it wont be as labor intensive as a deep scrub.

I do a similar thing, but these are the tubes I use. I bought two sets of them several years ago and they still work great. I replace the caps every so often. For the rack, I just keep them in six pack holders and put them in the keezer. I fill the unused vials with StarSan solution and store them that way.

I'd also like to add that, after I have racked a new beer into the fermentor, I pour the leftover trub into a mason jar, and then let it sit in the fridge for a day. Usually the trub separates to the bottom leaving a fair bit of usable wort. I give it another quick boil just to make sure its sterile and then make a small starter of something. After pouring off much of the beer, I can usually get about 10 vials of slurry.

I would absolutely recommend washing any new attys before use. If you have an ultrasonic cleaner, that is one of the best ways. If you do not, you can put it in a dish of hot soapy water, making sure to take it apart, and letting it soak for a few. You can then rinse and put in some vodka if you so choose, just make sure that if you do that you rinse really really well.

If you are interested in a reasonably price ultrasonic cleaner, heres one that Ive seen pop up a couple times here.

http://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-Professional-Ultrasonic-Instruments-MGUC500/dp/B007Q2M17K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449342955&sr=8-1&keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner

That's why you have to buy one of these suckers

It's pretty easy to make phytosomes actually. Just liquify some lecithin (equal amount to the amount of substance you're trying to prepare) by letting it sit in warm water than blending it. Add your desired substance to the mixture, then pour some of the solution (I think doing small amounts at a time works better than doing the whole thing at once) into the ultrasonic cleaner, turn it on and stir it as it is running.

Bam! You have your own phytosome complexes :)

http://m.ebay.com/itm/281880651830?_mwBanner=1

100 for $9 vs 10 for $3 (+ $4 shipping) at Goulet. Comes out to 9 cents a piece vs 71 cents (with shipping) at Goulet. But remember they are literally on the slow boat from China from eBay!

You may also like this holder: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005Z4QWIK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496098817&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=sample+vial+holder&dpPl=1&dpID=41dcT%2B82SsL&ref=plSrch

It is less than half the cost on Amazon

Both of these products are identical to what Goulet sells.

BTW I LOVE GOULET and do most of my purchasing from them! Always like to support the local community :)

I actually bought a magnasonic jewelry cleaner to use at home for like $35 and it works like a charm! i just bought some cleaning solution to mix in with the water and i clean my rings every couple weeks and they sparkle like they're brand new! jewelry cleaner

Some comments:

2 You are looking for an Ego Threaded Beauty Ring.

3 You can also buy MUCH better tanks like an Evod for cheap and they have replaceable coils so they are worth the investment. I personally have had better luck with something like a protank or BDC, but anything with replaceable coils will be a big step forward. Also the better build construction means less leaking.

4 PEG-400 is not really an ideal base for any ejuice. It has a bad taste and does not carry flavors very well. You would have much better luck using Vegetable Glycerin or Propylene Glycol.

Molecular Gastronomy Spherirication is really fun and sciency. I made little balsamic vinegar spears when I did it for a project but you can do it with fruit juice and then put them on ice cream. They are kinda like boba but much smaller. I used these pipettes to make the spheres (if you decide to do this, I still have a bunch and totally willing to send you some if you would like) It was pretty fun and I'm an adult. Also I have a simpler recipe but mine is specifically for vinegar...not sure if that matters...

These brain ice cube trays would make ice or you could make mini brain jello jigglers.

Hmm, I'd be shocked if one of us discovered a substance we could get at home that would create an as-of-yet-undiscovered precipitation reaction that would precipitate chloramine out of water! The reaction with citric acid you mentioned, is another one I now remember I've heard. All the points you make are right on, so if you figure something out, let us know! BUT the first step in my mind is finding a way to verify any potential results, so we're back to a cost effective way of measuring chloramine levels in a given water sample.

The cheap test strips for drinking water and aquariums seem to only test for chlorine (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FBMAVQ/)($13), and the expensive ones seem to indicate they CAN be calibrated to check for chloramine (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4TFU1I/) ($1,099). This seems made specifically to test for chloramine, but it's unavailable (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R3EF7ZY/).

I'll bet small quantities of citric acid are fine, and small amount of humic acids are definitely beneficial (humic acid is naturally occurring in compost and is great for soil). How much is too much, idk, since I don't add any directly/intentionally.

Yes. Quite easily. The relationship is the following

If i have 1lb of force and want to lift something that weighs 4lbs i'll need two pistons right?

piston A with 1lb of force will have a surface area (pi*r^2) of idk, .5sqin.

piston B with 4lbs of load that you want to move will need a surface area 4x higher than piston A. so 2 sqin in this case.

The problem is when you move piston A 2 inches piston B (with the 4lb load) will only move .5 inches.

This scales linearly so if you want to lift a car with 1lb of force you can. but you better be able to move the piston a long long way to get the job done.

EDIT: a kit like this with some tubing will give you everything you need to demonstrate this at home. I don't know the tube diameters but you can measure them and figure out the ratio pretty easily. https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Refilling-Liquids-cigs-juice/dp/B01CFJ51X4/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=syringe&qid=1562950408&s=gateway&sr=8-5

This is the advice that /u/gzprime gave me:
>I like the Rit Dymore (has to be the Dyemore version) for a few different reasons. The number one reason is convenience, it is pre-mixed and there for ready to go. It has far less warnings and caustic information than the iDye Poly. I find the iDye Poly hard to blend in small batches and have been having better results as of late withe Rit Dyemore.

>I'm pretty comfortable with dyeing keycaps. You can see some of my work here: (http://imgur.com/a/A79CE) You'll want the Rit Dyemore that comes in a bottle, premixed in the black color. I would use disposable pipettes to measures 1-3ml of dye for the initial bath/shade (https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Transfer-Pipettes-Graduated-Pack/dp/B005IQTSE0/).

>If they're PBT caps, you can bring the water to soft boil, add the caps and then just babysit them until you get the shade you're looking for. Then I'd use the pipette to add additional dye for the next shade and babyit that as well, repeating the process until you've got all the shades you're looking for.

>I'd also strongly suggest starting off with a series of test caps so you can get the timing, concentration, and process down pat. Feel free to let me know if you have any questions and good luck!

If you're looking to do a gradient type dye with one color like what I did, I would strongly recommend using both as little water as possible and as little dye as possible for your first shade. The longer the cap is in the dye bath the more even and consistent the color, but the darker it gets. Use lots of test caps to figure out the exact length of time to consistently get the shade you're looking for before proceeding. And I've found tapping the strainer up and down so that the caps jiggle around in the dye bath without being lifted out of it helps to make the color look more consistent.

I use about three big droppers full of Trader Joe's tea tree oil (~9 ml) in a whole bottle of Suave Naturals conditioner (I usually use coconut, but I'm going to buy one of the no-protein ones when I run out), and shake it up. I massage a huge handful into my scalp and comb it through my hair (fine, curly, not very porous) and rinse with cool water, and my hair stays fresh smelling and soft, not greasy or flat. Give it a try, but maybe only mix a few drops of tea tree oil into a half cup of conditioner to start with, just in case you don't like it. You don't want to ruin a whole bottle of conditioner if the tea tree oil doesn't work for you!

I also use a tiny bit tea tree oil in the spray gel I use for styling, to keep it fresh smelling. It's a pretty versatile essential oil!

It sounds like the cleanser just didn't agree with you, you can certainly stop using it. In the future, it's best to patch test new products in one area to determine if they won't break you out and you aren't sensitive or allergic to something in it.

If you're worried about the pH of your handmade soap, pH test strips are super cheap, easy, and frankly fun to play with. You can find out if you even need to worry about your cleanser before trying to find a new one you like!

I don't grow outside but I don't think you need to add more nutes to your soil. Not if you are using a quality soil like Ocean Forest.

Honestly, it looks like splash burn to me.

http://www.thctalk.com/cannabis-forum/showthread.php?105935-Nute-burn

But I would check your run off water pH. With soil, you could probably get away with those little paper tester strips they use for pools. Super cheap and available at any pool supply or hardware shop.

https://www.amazon.com/Packs-Paper-Litmus-Strips-Tester/dp/B008IBOG7G

I use the aforementioned 50-tube holder from Amazon as it's cheaper and larger than the Goulet's. They stack on top of each other in a drawer, which is a good thing, as I'm on my third rack.

And I used to try to cut up little bits of avery labels to put swabs on the top, but then I discovered paper hole reinforcers, and they fit on top of the vials perfectly. Here's what two of my racks look like next to my sample journal: http://i.imgur.com/K39IM2Y.jpg

I got one from Jellas and I'm very happy with it, which I'll link at the end of this reply. It's been quite accurate for my purposes. I occasionally put it in distilled water to make sure it's not falling out of calibration and so far it hasn't drifted, but if it does it has a screw to adjust it back. The batteries are easy to replace, and it's easy to slide it in past the pellicle and get a quick measurement. I'm actually on my second unit because I accidentally broke the bulb on the first one while drying it. Definitely let it air dry. I always rinse it right before and right after using it. It's a great way to make sure you're brewing a consistent product, since you will know exactly when your first and second fermentations are finished. Remember that pH is logarithmic so the rate of change will not be linear, and the difference in acidity between 4.0 and 3.0 is not 25%, it's 1,000%. I start the second fermentation at 3.4-3.6 and finish around 3.1-3.2.

Jellas Pocket Size PH Meter / PH Tester / Mini Water Quality Tester for Household Drinking Water, Hydroponics, Aquariums, Swimming Pools, PH 0-14.0 Me https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YBUH4RC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_hkOrr63kSbWzQ

If you buy even 5 30mL bottles a month of premium juice, just use that money at the start to BUILD A KIT. Don't buy one, they all have shit flavors that will turn you off to DIY. Almost all nicotine vendors sell diluted nicotine that you can just mix with flavors, but it's not a cost-efficient purchase. If you want to save money, buy 120mL of 100mg($19 at nudenicotine) nicotine and dilute it yourself. A gallon of VG is $14.49. Find a few recipes with good feedback here and order the flavors for them from bullcityvapor, gremlindiy, or ecigexpress. If you don't mind the extra work, and want to save a bit more, buy syringes instead of a scale, and clean and reuse the syringes.

I have one and I would recommend it to anybody, but it is not a requirement by any means. I used to use rubbing alcohol, Q-tips, water, and time to clean my tanks, and it worked extremelt well.

With the ultrasonic I can get 5 tanks/RDAs clean in under 10 minutes. I run hot water, chuck the gear into the cleaner with the water, run it for 3 minutes, then use my air compressor to blow any excess water away. Honestly takes longer to reassemble everything than the cleaning takes.

Still, unless you're really anal about cleaning, or have a crapton of gear that needs cleaning often, you do not need one.

case (pouch)

flower vial(s)

mlfb finishing grinder you can use a regular grinder and hold it upside down to grind finer, but the finishing grinder is beautiful and short enough to fit in my case.

edit: amazon lube

amazon pipe cleaners

case and vials above are smell safe. my every day carry is that bag with the pax, two jyarz (one for fresh one for abv), the finishing grinder, and a couple extra pipe screens in case i am a klutz.

oh also a stirring tool.

I used this machine. This USC does its job but I do wish I got one with a programmable timer, instead of one that only runs in 3 minute intervals. I didnt use any cleaner because they didnt need the extra help. All of the pens were inked at some point this semester, and still started immediately. My process was to run the converter and feed under tap water until I didnt see any ink coming out, and then to run it in the USC. Using this process I was able to get all of the sections and converters clear. The reason I picked up a USC was because after cleaning the Prera section with tap water, I could still see ink left over in several pockets and knew it would dry there. About 9 minutes in the USC and it was sparkling clear.

Edit: /u/abraxart and /u/mitch_romley

peroxide just breaks down into water (and quickly). best bet is soap, water, and perhaps alcohol and a good rinse. ultrasonic cleaners work wonders if you build as well. great for extending the life of coils between rewicking. this is the one i have.

http://amzn.com/B00HZVYAVM

just have some water and dish soap in there and run it through a few cycles and you are good to go.

Can't believe no one's thought of [propylene glycol] (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Propylene_glycol) yet. It's very safe but can literally be used as antifreeze. LD50 is very high - [>20g/kg in rats] (http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9927239), miscible with water, generally recognized as safe by the FDA, and you can buy it "kosher food grade" on Amazon. Oh yeah, it's also a little sweet and is even marketed as those [Mio fit water additives] (http://www.makeitmio.com/), which means they could've gone out, bought a bunch and mixed it with water and then put it in the freezer.

Eighth swirl attempt. Trial and error = improvement.

It's an aluminum enclosure, so paint adhesion is always a potential problem. I used self-etching primer - it chemically etches the surface of the aluminum, providing a good base coat that other paints can stick to.

After that, I put down a base coat of intense orange. I've found that swirled paint jobs tend to have a lot of see-through areas, so you want to plan the bottom layer strategically. I let this dry for about 3 days before I proceeded to the dip because enamel spray paints stay tacky for so long.

For dipping, I put a large plastic trash bag into a 3 gallon bucket before adding the water. The trash bag prevents paint from mucking up your bucket, which is important if your bucket is also used for serving chilled canned beverages at fabulous summer barbecues.

I filled the bucket with room temperature water. I added 7.5g Borax per liter of water to reduce the surface tension and allow the paint to flow over the water's surface.

For paints, I used Humbrol brand enamel paints. I was able to find them at my local hobby shop even though they weren't listed as a retailer on the Humbrol website. They should be available at most serious hobby / model airplane stores, as they're one of the classic brands of model paint that have been around almost since plastic models appeared on the market.

If doing 3-color swirls, I think think one could dip about 10 pedals from three 14mL cans of paint. The consistency should be like warm syrup: not thin like water, but able to drip or drizzle off the end of a coffee stir stick (the smaller size makes them easier to use than a popsicle stick because the cans are so little). Stir really well. If too thick, thin with mineral spirits / white spirit. I dropped it in with a plastic pipette - about 10-30 drops were required, depending on how thick the paint was. (I also tried thinning with white gas / naphtha, but it did not work as well. Despite the similarity in name - white spirit vs white gas - they are not equivalent!)

I'm going to stop posting links now; the section above is where I had the most trouble finding quality instruction in the Internet when I was figuring out how to do this, but there are plenty of YouTube videos that demonstrate the actual swirling/dipping process described below.

I drop the paints into the water by dipping a stir stick into the paint and letting it drip off the end into the water. Drop the paints into the water from as close to the surface as possible - if you drop from too high, the paint will plunge through the surface and sink to the bottom. The first few drops on the surface might thin out into a fine sheen on the surface of the water, but eventually they'll saturate the surface with a fine layer of paint and you'll be able to start getting good dots and ropes of color. I noticed that different colors seem to behave differently as they hit the surface - it's smart to try some experimental dips to master your paints before actually dipping your enclosure.

Work quickly. The paint is drying on the surface of the water even as you drop it in. It doesn't even take a minute for a thin coat of floating paint to tack up.

Swirl carefully with a stick to make your designs and move the paint where you want it. Be aware that the more you swirl, the more paint you will end up with on your stir stick instead of on your work piece.

Dip your pedal slowly and carefully (on the end of a stick or a coat hanger so your hand doesn't end up getting swirled too). The paint will be pulled onto the surface of the pedal and dragged underwater with the pedal. After it's completely submerged, use crunched up newspaper to clear an open spot on the surface of the water to pull the pedal back out so it doesn't end up with swirls on top of swirls.

Pull the pedal out. Blow or shake the water off. By the time you're finished doing that, thin areas of paint will basically be dry, medium areas will be tacky, and thick areas will be on their way. Hang it up to dry in a wind/dust free area.

If you hate it, wipe it off with mineral spirits within an hour or two and start over.

If you like it, let it dry a couple days and then top coat with something tough.

thanks! this is what I used to clean my caps...Was it worth the wait? nah, prob not but I was impressed how clean they came out of the machine after it was all said and done. I did 0 when it came to scrubbing my caps clean :) just running water over them after the ulrta sonic cleaner had them looking new

> I plan to dose one "thread" of the cap every month.

Flourish Excel is only active in the water column for ~24 hours before it breaks down; it should be dosed daily or every other day. Monthly would be essentially pointless.

Also, you might find this useful! Great for easy dosing in smaller tanks; I have a couple of them.

Vodka or rubbing alcohol. Or denatured alcohol. It may dry the o-rings out some, but otherwise you'll be good to go.

May also want to give a cheap ultrasonic cleaner a try. I used distilled water in that to clean everything. Works pretty well.

The solid red light you are having is the temperature-light issue. Make sure you clean it regularly, and leave it upside down (oven at the bottom) so that the piece stays as clean as possible.

I will buy some mouthpiece lubricant (or just Propylene Glycol (Amazon Link)) to lubricate the mouth piece connection part thoroughly. You don't need a lot, but make sure it is lubed up in the connection part. It always solves my temp-light issues.

Make sure to checkout the wiki in this subreddit on how to clean the pax.

Ill always recommend #1 but I have seen other people suggest #2 as a safe alternative.

1. Pax Official Site
   
   
2. Amazon Merchant
   
   Before you make your decision on using an alternative take heed of this warning from Ploom (source: some site called "Rich Malley's blog", but it seems like a legit CSR Reply):
   
   >Regarding my suggestion that AstroGlide is an acceptable substitute for the lube they offer for purchase, Ploom pointed out that if a Pax owner damages her vaporizer by using anything other than their officially approved lubricant, she could void her 10yr. warranty.
   
   

Hey, thanks! Yes, that's the one I was thinking of. I just couldn't find it. Idk about better though. They're different for sure, but they're both made from bottle preforms, so the tube strength should be the same.

The pocket reel comes with:

• 1 pocket reel
  
• 4 fishing hooks
  
• 4 removable sinkers
  
• 2 metal spinner lures
  
• 3/4" bobber
  
• knot guide with directions
  
• 45' spool of fishing line
  
  The one I linked comes with:
  
  
• 1 Heavy duty plastic tube with screw top lid.
  
• 24’ of 20# monfilament fishing line
  
• 3 #2 Eagle Claw Hooks
  
• 3 #4 Eagle Claw Hooks
  
• 4 #3 Split Shot Lead Sinkers
  
• 4 #7 Split Shot Lead Sinkers
  
• 2 Slip Bobbers
  
• 2 Attached Bobbers
  
• 2 Various colored Jigs
  
  So, with the pocket reel, you get 4 hooks instead of 6, 1 bobber instead of 2, 4 sinkers instead of 8, metal spinners instead of jigs, but almost twice as much line and a "knot guide".
  
  Seems like about a wash to me. I should note that I don't have a horse in this race, I've never used either and am not affiliated with either shop. The kit I posted was one I found a month or so ago while looking for the one you posted.
  
  Personally, I went with neither and just bought some bottle preforms for about a buck a piece, filled a couple with the fishing gear I already had and used the rest for other camping gear: spices/oil for cooking, match case, pill bottles, tinder case, etc.

Yeah that's not too bad. Of course you can get 1000ml of concentrate for $45! We bought 120ml of concentrate from three sources (1, 2, 3) to compare and she didn't notice a big difference between them. They've all been in the freezer since and still taste fine 3 years later (actually one of them is completely gone and the other 2 are getting pretty low).

I just started with an online calculator and went from there; it's easy to get to whatever % you normally vape at.

I found out quickly that plastic syringes suck - they wear out and the eliquid melts the markings off. So I got a few glass syringes off of ebay (though really I've only ever needed one).

Initially I was super-careful with the nicotine concentrate as it can be fatal in really small doses, but after handling it a bit I realized it's actually very safe and easy to handle. Unless you squirt it in your eye or mouth you aren't going to have a problem - but you definitely need to keep it away from children and pets.

Then a few glass dropper bottles, PG and VG.

Whenever she's getting low she'll order a few different flavorants (usually from here) in 10ml bottles. I rarely mix flavors as it's simpler not to - just dump a full 10ml bottle into a dropper bottle, add 4-6ml of nicotine concentrate, then around 20ml each of PG/VG. Let it sit a week and it's ready to use.

I have a 5 lb. CO2 tank that sits on a small shelf in the back of my kegerator, with a regulator to dispense CO2 at 30PSI. The CO2 is attached to the corny keg using some 5/16" gas line and a ball-lock fitting.

The 40 ft. of beverage line is 3/16" (internal diameter) vinyl tubing that is coiled and wrapped with zipties to make sure it doesn't get tangled. Even though that sounds like a lot of line, there is only ~8 ounces of fluid in it when it is completely full. When the keg runs dry, I detach the CO2 and beverage lines, clean the keg, add about a liter of sanitized water (diluted starsan) to the keg, reattach the lines, and push the sanitized water through the beverage line. When the beverage line looks nice and clean (but still has the sanitized water in it), I can take it off and leave it in my kegerator until it's ready to use again. When I add another full keg, I just discard the first glass (which is half sanitized water and half sediment from the cold crash), and then I'm good to go.

2% is NOT high thc....it’s extremely low! I’d also recommend to use a heavy indica strain given what you’ve reported since you’re looking for more calming effects vs. high energy. Your specific condition could be the cause of how you’re not feeling any effects, so it’s probably best to significantly bump up your intake.

Buy distillate syringes ($65 at Surterra) and just make infused coconut oil. Distillate is up to 90% thc and will go a long way....Plus you can truly control your dosages by concentrating them as much as you’d like.

All you have to do is heat up unrefined coconut oil in a Pyrex container, put the distillate into the hot oil and start stirring for a few minutes. Once it emulsifies it’s ready to use. The distillate is very thick, so put the syringe into hot water for a minute So that it becomes less viscous and then remove the cap to dispense it.

Example - let’s say there’s 850mg of thc in one distillate syringe and you use 50ml of coconut oil.

850/50 = 17mg of thc per ml of oil. You aren’t just limited to using one distillate syringe - feel free to use more to make your infused oil more potent.

Buy a blunt tip luer lock syringe with ml measurements and then simply put it into your own empty capsules. You can buy the syringe and the capsules on amazon for very cheap. You can also use these blunt tip syringes to measure your coconut oil to ensure he dosages will be right. Links to the items you need below

https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Refilling-Liquids-cigs-juice/dp/B01CFJ51X4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=blunt+tip+syringe&qid=1554677628&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/NOW-Gel-Capsules-250-Empty/dp/B00E40DJ82/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?crid=3VTB07WR7494G&keywords=capsules+00&qid=1554677715&s=gateway&sprefix=capsules&sr=8-7

You can also dispense the distillate straight into your own cartridges and vape it, but be sure to use only a ceramic cartridge. Do not include any coconut oil into your vape...just distillate

I actually got it from Vapexhale, but I think it was a limited run because it's been a while since I've seen it on the website. For an ultrasonic cleaner you can do something like this. I soak the nails and baskets in the ultrasonic cleaner filled with the highest concentration isopropal alcohol I can find. Usually soak them overnight or for a day, but it doesn't have to be that long, and I'll just turn on the ultrasonic cleaner here and there during that time.

​

Then when I'm ready I'll take them out, brush them off good to remove the remaining stains, soak in clean iso for a bit, dry off, and then finally burn them off in the vape with it set to the highest temp (in case it needs to be said, always be careful with iso around heat, otherwise you might lose some hair or go boom).

Thanks! Wish I would’ve straightened the labels out more for optimal satisfaction! Lol.

Karter Scientific 208U2 Plastic... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005Z4QWIK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Hey dude! I purchased a starter kit when I started making E-juice, and while it was helpful I quickly realized that I could of gotten more for less had I known what I needed. It is a lot cheaper to just buy the products individually since you will also be getting a larger amount too. Here are some links and in my opinion this is the cheapest way for someone to start DIY:


VG- https://www.amazon.com/Glycerin-Vegetable-Kosher-USP-Quart/dp/B004C7MTLA/ref=sr_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1480546689&sr=8-2&keywords=vegetable+glycerine


PG- https://www.amazon.com/Essential-Depot-Propylene-Glycol-Quart/dp/B005F5OJG6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480546865&sr=8-3&keywords=propylene+glycol


Gloves- https://www.amazon.com/Liberty-Glove-Industrial-Disposable-Thickness/dp/B01MZZ0FHO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480546913&sr=8-2&keywords=nitrile+gloves


Syringes- https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Refilling-E-Liquids-Applicator/dp/B01HFTYINS/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1480546884&sr=8-6&keywords=blunt+tip+syringe


Nicotine- https://www.nudenicotine.com/products-page/unflavored-nicotine-base/

And as for bottles it is all up to you I personally buy mine from http://wholesale.heartlandvapes.com/eliquid-bottles/plastic-eliquid-bottles.html

*Lastly all you need is flavorings, I think it would be best for you to search around and find what you like, I personally prefer http://gremlindiy.com/ and http://www.bullcityflavors.com/ . Hope this helped!

You can. I prefer to buy it off Amazon though TBH.

I buy Essential Depot Vegetable Glycerin And Propylene Glcyol

No reason I just like to stick with one company.

Heres The DIY Clone list. The all loved Nana Cream is on there and Im vaping it now and its wonderful. I think enough flavoring to make like 120ml was $10???? Cant remember off the top of my head.

This one, First Alert WT1 Drinking Water Test Kit. The guy at the environmental test company said those kits aren't really sensitive enough to get more than a "that's pretty good" or "that's pretty bad" despite the results you get. He said they tend to be consistent, though, so if you get good results you should be good, and if you get bad results, you should call someone like him. If you get fuzzy results, it comes down to how strongly you feel about getting it officially tested.

Nic river is cheap, haven't used it but have heard only good things. I use essential depot, if you buy direct from them you can get pretty good discounts on a couple gallons.

I use Essential Depot on Amazon they are top notch. Super cheap. Ship crazy fast. I only found it one time at Wal-Mart and used a small bottle. Aslong as the proper grades ans safety checks are on the bottle you'll be fine!! Hope that helps.

Yeah, the "flammable tap water" thing was from up in my area, Weld County. The situation was that all of these folks used well water for their houses, and they had higher-than-normal levels of methane gas in their water. It was a big hit with the local media, but the kerfluffle died out not too long afterwards.

I think you'll find a lot of information if you check out Denver Water's page on Water Quality - they provide information on the treatment process and the results of their tests. You can probably also request the water test results in print (In Greeley, we get them once a year with our water bills).

All in all, I've lived here a long time, and I've never had a problem with our water anywhere. In my opinion, it seems like municipalities in Colorado are much more concerned with water and water quality than in other places in the US I've lived previously. Heck, Coors even advertises that their beer is brewed with fresh "cold Rocky Mountain water"!

Feel safe with your water. If you're still concerned (or want to prove to your mom that the water's safe), you can always buy a water testing kit, although I don't know how accurate or effective they are, never having used one myself.

Fluval sells this simple kit. It does get expensive replacing their specialized cartridges, but it's a good place to start if you're only ready to get your toes wet.

If you want to go bigger, it'll cost more upfront, but is cheaper to maintain.

Amazon Shopping list for CO2 under $200:

Cheap Regulator. There are better/nicer/higher quality ones out there. This one is cheap and okay.

Drop Checker

Diffuser

Check Valve

CO2 tubing

Thread tape

Adjustable wrench

5lb cylinder less than $15 to fill at gas supply store

Sure. I generally just place my coils in a thick walled (1 mil or greater) plastic bag with about 2 to 4 oz of ISO 70% or better. Then I seal the bag trying to not trap air in it. I place the bag in the cleaner with the zipper up. I then add hot but not scalding water to the tank to it's marked fill level. I then run it for max time ( 5 minutes )for 2 cycles. Between each cycle I check to see if my ISO is still able to hold more material in it. If it gets darker than rosewood, I change the iso as it's near or at saturation levels.


I use this. At the time i got it it was on sale for $25. Even at it's current price it works really well. Make sure you get one that has multiple time settings so you can use it for other items like actual jewelry.

I use Excel ( I actually buy it in bulk 10 gallons at a time and dilute it myself ) with my CO2 BUT I don't use it as a carbon but instead as an algaecide. The supplement is just a bonus. Polycytoglucolsomene (botched it, but that's what's in Excel) is a strong medical cleaner that's been diluted for the aquarium. It changes the DNA/RNA of algae to prevent replication. Some plants do not like this.

https://youtu.be/eIj67-zOrGk

Watch that video.


The co2 tank I use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HQQ3WWE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_dzYNsK4I2fzHX

Right here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DXPRTHG

I love these things. Perfect for dosing. Could have used less than 10 but I'm glad I got them. I Velcro them to their respective bottles.

> make sure it says USP on it and you're good

USP at minimum, Kosher is even better... USP is pharmaceutical grade but that could mean topical, like for a hand lotion... Kosher means that it's pure pure and it's intended to be ingested / used internally.

Don't know if they ship to Canada, but +1 on the Amazon sourcing...

Propylene Glycol 1 Quart

Glycerin Vegetable Kosher USP - 1 Quart

Get mechanical grade alcohol, 99%, get it in the pressurized spray can, and regular bottle. Disassemble the GPU and get any parts that got coolant on them out of the system.

Get a clean plastic container that can fit the parts you've gotten wet. Put the alcohol in there from the non pressurized n bottle. Place parts in bath of alcohol, use the pressurized alcohol and qtips to clean your parts. Once done, let dry for at least 48 hours in front of a fan.

I've recovered an entire x99 system this way. Good luck.

Edit

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Isopropyl-Alcohol-Cleaner/dp/B005DNQX3C/

Spray

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T8PL1Q

I ended up not ordering a kit, just nic + pg/vg and some syringes from NudeNicotine and some flavorings from WizardLabs.

Right now WizardLabs nicotine (120ml of 100mg/ml) is cheaper than Nude's (cheaper shipping too) so I'd grab nic from there while it's on sale. To save on shipping order flavorings from there. They're only 8ml, but they'll give you an idea of how they taste. To go bigger you'll probably have to order directly from the company (The Flavor Apprentice, Capella, Inawera, Flavor Art, Flavor West, etc).

Order PG/VG from Amazon. Essential Depot is like $13 for 940ml of PG or VG.

Syringes/bottles can be had a lot of places, I'd just get them from wizardlabs if you're getting nic from there.

HeartlandVapes also has good prices on bottles, syringes, nic (same price as wizardlabs), and bigger bottles of flavoring. Never ordered from them, but have seen them recommended a lot.

So here we go,

First off a Danby 4.4 Cu Ft fridge, something like this. I got this off of some one on craigslist for a $100. I tried to talk them down but some one had informed them that the fridge was valuable to home brewers.

The tap tower was purchased on amazon.

The line connections were also purchased there, since the ones that came on the tower were incorrect for the five gallon kegs.

The temperature controller was also purchased on amazon. Really amazon was my go to.

Here is the CO2 tank I anticipate buying. I haven't really picked out a regulator yet.

I ended up ordering this: Ultrasonic Cleaner $28.99 from Amazon. It had good reviews and a decent sized basket. I figure if it sucks Amazon is super easy to return. It will be interesting to post some before and after close ups of wire after cleaning since it's obvious there is a tiny amount of dust and probably skin getting left in the wire from handling it while making it.

It's pretty easy to clean this.


ESD circuit board brushes: http://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Handle-Circuit-Static-Brushes/dp/B00BM38YPW


99.95% Alcohol: http://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Isopropyl-Alcohol-Cleaner/dp/B005DNQX3C/

Distilled Water can be used as well, just give it a few days to dry out.

Dip the brushes in the alcohol, don't just add the alcohol to the board, you'll end up using too much.

Make sure to wait an hour or so to guarantee that its all evaporated.

Yeah, Lahmian medium is great. That will probably work better than the Vallejo TBH.

EDIT: if you're airbrushing with GW paints, get yourself some of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Transfer-Pipettes-Graduated-Pack/dp/B005IQTSE0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495632710&sr=8-1&keywords=paint+pipettes

Makes it a lot easier to get the right proportions of paint/thinner when you can measure. I haaaate the idea of literally pouring paint into the airbrush cup.

Ferts - http://greenleafaquariums.com
Co2 Regulator - http://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/co2-systems/products/copy-of-archaea-co2-regulator-pro-dual-gauge-fits-cga-320
5lb Co2 tank - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HQQ3WWE/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3ONOLGNT00SR9. Co2 diffuser - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005MLTRR4/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Bubble counter - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004GCPM6K/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Co2 Drop Checker - http://m.ebay.com/itm/New-Aquatic-CO2-Glass-Drop-Checker-PH-Momitor-Aquarium-Fish-Tank-Test-CO2-Kit-/391351972319?varId=660586838351&txnId=650126189026 Co2 tubing and check valve - http://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/co2-systems/products/pressure-proof-tube-parts-set
Co2 Drop Checker Solution - http://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/co2-systems/products/ph-kit-ph-reagent-refill-for-drop-checker

That should be everything. I would look into EI dosing too. Especially if you're going with dry ferts. You'll have to find a place near you that can fill the Co2 tank. I get mine filled at Beer Depot. Any home brewery store will have the equipment necessary to refill a 5lb Co2 tank. Welding stores also refill Co2 tanks. If you're really luck, you may have an awesome LFS that refills tanks too. If I missed anything, or if you have any more questions, please let me know. =)

i would invest into a $25~35 ultra sonic cleaner on Amazon. They are great for glasses, other jewelry, etc. I plan on using that the morning of the wedding or something. This is what I have [here] (https://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-Professional-Ultrasonic-Instruments-CD2800/dp/B00HZVYAVM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491254960&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ultrasonic+jewelry+cleaner&psc=1) works amazing

edit: trust me, the ring is most likley dirtier than you think. the before and after is SO different.

Thanks for the cool tek! That sounds like its a worth a shot.

I have some of these syringes on their way to my house. :)

I use a little one from amazon: http://smile.amazon.com/Magnasonic-Professional-Ultrasonic-Eyeglasses-Instruments/dp/B00HZVYAVM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1458135108&sr=8-4&keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner

I use it with heated water and just a little bit of degreaser if needed. Sure it takes a few batches and a few runs to do everything, but it's only $30 and things come out super clean.

Let's see.. my 5ml sampler bottles are these from FastTech though similar ones can be found elsewhere. The problem with those is that the needle is too small for 50/50 liquids when used to fill a tank. I haven't been able to find these needle tip bottles with, say, a 16 or 18 gauge. But I only use these small 5ml guys for testing (read: dripping) so they work just fine (no need to dispense 1-2ml at a time).

I've also got a ton of vktech bottles via Amazon. I couldn't pass these up for 12-15 cents each. They're not high quality, but they get the job done. The dropper plugs flow very well and they can be easily modified for faster flow (dispensing VG). They aren't great for filling tanks with the larger than normal tip, though. Quite a few people have received unusable, poor quality bottles, but I think that has a lot to do with the source. The ones I bought were "shipped and sold" by vktech, though you'll notice other sellers on that Amazon page - there must be a range of quality available from these different sellers. All the reviews get lumped together, adding uncertainty.

My favorite plastic bottles for normal use are these from Heartland Vapes. It's all about the plastic needle tip on those - so nice for filling tanks with smallish fill ports. I believe the plastic bottles that Wizard Labs carries currently also have this plastic needle tip, though it's not reflected in their photos.You can also find this style of tip over on FastTech. If they fit your existing bottles well, a nice retrofit. Though the longer tip will probably hinder your existing overcaps.

Great question... now I have one for you -

What method are you using to clean your pen?

Edit - how do you flush your pen?

Lamy's website has a short instruction video here but it is really short... and low on details.

I would suggest you get yourself a Bulb Syringe for a few bucks from your local drug store or dollar store and flush with the bulb syringe. Amazon and pen shops such as Goulet also sell them. Also check Goulet's video about pen flushing (and others on YouTube. Flushing with cold/luke warm water with a single drop of dish soap usually works.

Next step could be an ultrasonic cleaner -

Some inks will 'stain' fountain pen materials (some dark blues and reds) which can take a bit more work.

Good luck with your fountain pen cleaning.

Amazon has it in amounts from 1 pint to 5 gallons. Dunno about you, but they ship to me pretty quick. And no probing questions.

But NSA WILL know! :)

(EDIT): Also, I posted this link a little while ago that has some good information about PG labelling, so you'll know what you are buying.

Yes, there are those but you mentioned filters. I find the big bottles of water to be overwhelmingly more common, and you can just flip a coin as to whether the company that bottles it follow regulations. I'm actually taking this back from meiguo to make sure the company my school buys from is okay, as I've noticed the plastic circles you punch through have become almost too easy to open recently and one was already opened when it was delivered.

First Alert WT1 Drinking Water Test Kit

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FBMAVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_OXL5tb0YNPYD8

awesome!

figured i'd check for similar stuff on amazon and found this: [Karter Scientific 208U2 Plastic Test Tube Rack for 15/17mm Tubes, Holds 50, Detachable] (http://www.amazon.com/Karter-Scientific-208U2-Plastic-Detachable/dp/B005Z4QWIK/)

from my measurements the WL vials are 17mm so should work great

When starting up my CO2 I gave in and bought a tank and solenoid regular off of amazon both totaling a bit over $100 with some lucky sales. I've used Flourish Excel before but haven't noticed anything substantial until using pressurized system. Tank and Solenoid. The tank is on sale currently I might just buy another one, the 5lb tank with this solenoid sits perfectly under my aquarium stand and works with the space in my stand builds.

If I were to use CO2 on my 10g I would buy a smaller tank like their 2.5lb size and another solenoid. I've never gassed fish nor do any of us want to try, I'd rather have a reliable setup that is cheaper in the long run vs buying the smaller overpriced kits.

Overdosing excel can kill algae but I did just find this.

I suffered yeast recurrent yeast infections for 2.5 years! This all started from taking antibiotics. I tried boric acid, 90 billion culture probiotics, maintenance fluconazole (1 time every week), several vaginal creams-you name it. I tested for HIV and diabetes-negative. The recurrent bv/yeast specialist at my obgyn office was baffled at my issues!

I am not sure what ended up working for me. I have been clear for a little less than a year now. I have a few theories: 1.) I stopped using the pill and went on an IUD 1.5 years ago. I believe this helped somewhat (lower hormone dose). 2.) I don't wear underwear at night, and sleep without shorts/pants. 3.) I just rinse with water in the shower and use only coconut oil to shave. 4.) I use an AWESOME organic water-based lube that is pH balanced (the company UK based by the name of YES). 5.) Before bed I rinse my vulva/vag off with warm water using a "perrineal bottle", which is basically a squirt bottle. 6.) When I get a uti, I buy d-mannose, and add it to my water. I have cured several utis using this. D-mannose is a special sugar that clings to e-coli in the urinary tract/bladder and flushes it out when you pee. I swear it works just as well as antibiotics. You have to make sure you take the right dosage. Some supplements just provide a dose enough to prevent but not cure utis. I was skeptical at first, but it is something I wish I knew about earlier. Check it out on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00SK66UJG/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?qid=1448632306&sr=8-10&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=d+mannose+uti
7.) I stopped taking maintenance doses of fluconazole and only used it when I had an active infection. Over the course of 2.5 years, I probably got more than 30-40 infections.

Edit: I also use this to test if I have bv or yeast: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005FYGXUC/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484881069&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

Normal vaginal ph is between 3.8-4.5. BV will cause your pH to be off, but yeast will not.

I like how you asked for cheaper than $30 and people respond with $200 probes lmao.

I got these two off Amazon cheap, like $15 each.

I've tested them in r/o water and they seem to be accurate, the tds measures up with my water report from the city on my tap water and reads r/o at 0.

I haven't had any issues with my plants as far as ph or PPM.

Here are the ones I got.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YBUH4RC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483110799&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ph+meter+for+water&dpPl=1&dpID=41w2JXOokIL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01EWZBB3S/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1483110821&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=tds+water+testing+meter&dpPl=1&dpID=51JKkIc76NL&ref=plSrch

Here's a link to those tubes. They're pretty common, you might be able to find a better price than that.

They're food-grade (obviously) so they supposedly work well. Haven't used them myself though. These should only be used for starters though. After storage you're likely not going to have enough viability in a single vial for a healthy pitch.

I used this one, and it got the job done pretty well. Usually, ultrasonic cleaners that are sufficient enough for casual use are under $50, while more "professional grade" or "industrial" ones will cost more than that. As for the process, it's tedious, but simple. I disassembled the switches until I got something looking like this, then I organized the parts into piles. I then washed each respective part pile by putting them in the cleaner and submerging it in water, and adding a very little amount of dish soap (about a quarter of a teaspoon). I ran the parts through the cleaner twice. To rinse them off, use distilled water so there are no water impurities left on the parts after the water evaporates. Finally, I waited for the parts to dry, I click modded them, and I put them back together.

Also, I'll head to the /r/olkb question thread to inquire about the Preonic case.

40 gallons is going to be pushing on what you can accomplish with DIY, so I would avoid going that route, as you wont wind up happy.

As for what you will need, it is really very simple, but not particularly cheap. You need a CO2 tank, a regualtor, bubble counter, diffusor and gas line.

CO2. Go with a 5 or 10 lb tank. If you can find used even better as most places just swap tanks when you fill them, so you get your new shiny aluminum tank, bring it to get filled, they take it and give you a banged up used one back. A 5lb tank should last 3-4 months depending on how many bubbles per second you are pumping

Regulator with Bubble Counter and solenoid, the solenoid is what shuts off flow of CO2 at night, when plugged into a timer. Plants don't utilize CO2 at night, so continuing to pump it into the tank is just wasting gas. Keep it on the same cycle as your lights, or better yet, and hour behind, so it turns on and hour before the lights come on, and off an hour before the lights go off.

Diffuser, you can spend a little or a lot here. I dont really see the need to spend a ton with this part. You do want to see if the unit has a check valve though, and if not, you will need to add one between the bubble counter and diffuser to prevent a back siphoning.

Gas tubing very important you get tubing rated for CO2 gas. Do not use regular air line of the gas will eat right through it

First Alert WT1 Drinking Water Test Kit. I live in a 100-yr old building with original plumbing so I bought this and tested the water. Everything came out well within EPA standards. Our city water (San Francisco) is among the best in the country so your mileage may vary.

Yes, it should. 1000mg = 1gm. So knowing that you can convert an amount in milligrams to grams by dividing by 1000. So 30mg / 1000mg = 0.03g, or it would show on your scale 0.030g. It doesn't even have to be that difficult, simply knowing there are 1000mg in a gram you can see that the three zeros behind the decimal represent 999mg - 1mg. So 0.300 would be 300mg, 0.099 would be 99mg, so on. If you wanted to make the dose lower you could measure out 0.015, so 15mg, and dissolve it in 30ml of your solvent. 15mg / 30ml = 0.5mg. So that'd give you 0.5mg per 1ml.

​

Imo this is the safest way to this RC considering it's potency. Also I'm glad you responded, I realized the glass bottles I linked don't have ML markings on the droppers, and I can't seem to find of those online now. I got mine from Ceretropic a while back. So if you want to use this method and don't have a glass bottle either make sure you can find one that does have the MG marking, or you can buy this dropper seperate. Be safe! :]

I get my pg & vg from amazon. great prices. Just mix it in the ratios you want & your good to go. I vape unflavored juice with nicotine because I prefer it, it seems like a lighter less complicated vape than with flavors. Sometimes when I am bored I will put in some menthol for a change

http://www.amazon.com/Essential-Depot-Propylene-Glycol-Quart/dp/B005F5OJG6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416509782&sr=8-1&keywords=propylene+glycol

http://www.amazon.com/Glycerin-Vegetable-Kosher-USP-43/dp/B004C7MTLA/ref=pd_sim_indust_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0HC83A0EQFYJHWVJG8HQ

Here’s the one I got. I love it. I use it to clean everything: rings, necklaces, sunglasses, phone cases — basically if it’s small enough and not electronic, I put it in there lol

This is the one I bought and it works great; There are many on Amazon like it. I use 1/2 tablet of denture cleaner (I use target brand) in the ultrasonic cleaner morning and night.

I can’t really tell, but I haven’t worked with jewelry. Someone else here might be able to. Silver? Pewter? Zinc?

You could try cleaning solution or an ultrasonic cleaner. Many jewelry stores have those machines if you’d like to have someone else do it. If you use a solution, test a spot on the back first to make sure there won’t be a reaction.

If you want to keep your rings clean all the time, you can invest in an inexpensive ultrasonic cleaner. Most of them use a powder-based cleaner that you mix with water. They don't use much water, and the solution will last a long time unless you're cleaning 20 pieces a day. If your well water is too hard, just use bottled water.

Mine was a bit more, but you can purchase a good ultrasonic cleaner for ~$40:

www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-MGUC500-Professional-Ultrasonic-Eyeglass/dp/B007Q2M17K/

Use isopropyl alcohol to clean the whole the inside. It's safe for Electronics and will make it look like new. I would use a krylon paint on the rusty screws after removing the rust.

MG Chemicals 824-1L 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol Liquid Cleaner, Clear , 945 mL (1 US Quart) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DNQX3C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xyE1DbQ5BGQWF

Like you, I needed a pen but didn't want to pay a cnote for one. I'm already using drops because I feel it's more accurate, but wanted a pen to compare to.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YBUH4RC/ref=pd_aw_lpo_469_lp_img_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=H7N0T6GZ8T1Q6HVCB7SJ

I went with Amazon because if it craps out or doesn't work properly, I have like 3 months to return it. I mean, theoretically you could do this with the bluelab one and return it before their window runs out, but that feels scummy. I figure if nothing else, I'm only out like 13 bucks.

It could be "bad" ipa. Denatured ipa is not good for print bed cleaning. ( a bit on the subject https://sciencing.com/denatured-alcohol-vs-isopropyl-alcohol-5519636.html)

It is probably denatured with a oil based chemical , or has a weird additive, even a residue in the plastic bottle before filling at the factory.... Try another brand and get yourself some 99% ipa MG Chemicals 824-1L 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol Liquid Cleaner, Clear , 945 mL (1 US Quart) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DNQX3C/


I'm personally curious about using DI water(deionized water) to clean instead of 99% ipa, or maybe a 50/50 mix. We use it at work on the industrial printers and it works really good.

I'd never heard of anyone doing it either. I just got curious about ways to clean the foils better and started experimenting. I just use soap / water in the solution and run it for about 10 minutes.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-Professional-Ultrasonic-Eyeglasses-MGUC500/dp/B007Q2M17K

In that case, the syringe is pretty handy to have. I got this variety pack from Amazon < link > so I could try different sizes, and the 1ml (smallest one) ended up working the best for me to load the B-coil.

Oh wow, I'll have to give these a go. I've been using a few of the Nalgene Travel Bottle Kit bottles for olive oil, hot sauce, etc, and soda bottle pre-forms for batteries and some other stuff. But they're too big for most things like seasoning/spices, and not big enough for stuff like pancake mix.

Short answer if you just freeze yeast the freezing water solidifies and punctures cell wells, killing most of the yeast.

Long answer if you add a 50/50 solution of (water or beer) with food grade glycerin the water will get cold but never freeze.

My process:

Harvest yeast- overbuilding a starter is the easiest way or you could harvest and wash your yeast.

Decant Beer from your starter or use water and half fill a 1 pt mason jar and top off the rest with food grade glycerin. Boiling at this point is probably unnecessary but I do it anyway just to make sure no bugs get transferred in. Cool.

I then spray everything I use with Starsan and then dip everything I’m using in to the boiling water.

I use Soda Preforms but will switch to 1.5 ounce glasses once I burn through my preforms because I can boil them killing anything and not have to worry about melting plastic plus they’re cheaper.

I fill them halfway with my Decanted Yeast Slurry and let it settle. You want the settled yeast to be about half of the Preform which is approximately 100 billion cells. I then Decant excess liquid off and top off with your 50/50 (Water or starter beer) and glycerin.

Cap/Label place in an insulated bag with an ice pack to protect from freezing/thaw cycles and place in the freezer.

I use an ultra sonic cleaner ( Amazon, $30) and use some cheap denture cleaner like many recommend here. Mine are crystal clear. Seriously, just buy one and use it everyday. It makes things so much easier.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0142G8ONC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sorry to keep bugging you but does something like this seem like it would work?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CO2-Regulator-aquarium-Two-Gauge-Solenoid-Magnetic-Valve-CGA320-US-thread-110V-/272333167283?hash=item3f68525ab3:g:YSEAAOSwyLlXprmJ

https://www.amazon.com/Tank--Aluminum-Cylinder-CGA320-Valve/dp/B00HQQ3WWE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1472673301&sr=8-7&keywords=5+lb+co2+tank (actually found it for 5 bucks cheaper here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HQQ3WWE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3L3Q6EPZRMXO8)

That gets me to ~$110 for full setup as I realized I have a power head I can feed the co2 into for dispersal.

Thanks for your responses.

I got everything separately.. Now I know I should have gotten my flavors and nicotine from wizard labs, but I ordered nicotine from nude nicotine and flavors from TFA's website. Also don't get a pack of flavors, just pick a couple of recipes you'd like and order those flavors. Here is a shitload of VG for sale on amazon. Grab some syringes, and glass dropper bottles while you are there and you're ready..

EDIT: You'll also need some bigger syringes or a graduated cylinder..

I would read the sub for a couple of days, make sure to look at the top posts and search some stuff you think of.. I really wish I would have done that before I just bought a bunch of shit.

I use a couple of these wood test tube racks.

They're capable of holding every type of razor I've owned. Plus they fit in my medicine cabinet nicely, and they don't look half bad IMO.

I've gone the DIY c02 route and it is just not worth it. You can buy a regulator and 5lb tank off amazon for like 120$ and that will set you up for a year. Then it's like 15$ per refill. You can dial the c02 to whatever level your tank needs. IMHO I'd get pressurized c02 just so I don't have to deal with algae problems.

The number of hours spent refilling soda bottles, growing yeast, cleaning, dealing with c02 swings and no precise control with very very little benefit to show for it. Easily cost more than 120$ in time, effort and supplies.

Tank

Regulator

It's difficult to get the excess resin off of areas that have support. The surface tension causes it to pool.

I recommend getting an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner. You can find them on amazon for around $20 USD. Fill the cleaner with isopropyl alcohol and let it vibrate for a few minutes. It will solve the problem.

Alternatively, you can try and scrub out the areas with a toothbrush, but I find that it takes to long and the results aren't as good as the ultrasonic cleaner.

EDIT: I just checked and they are actually closer to $40. I have this one and it works great.

Use 99% isopropyl alcohol (I use this stuff) to degrease the places on which you'll be putting the adhesive bits.

Personally, I spray down a cloth or paper towel with glass cleaner (Windex) then add a few sprays of alcohol and use that for most frame cleaning. Then for things which need to be grease-free I follow up with straight alcohol on a clean paper towel.

I use much stronger degreasers on metal-only parts, such as when cleaning the drivetrain parts when off of the bike. But for anywhere around plastics, alcohol is my go-to. It will not hurt the epoxy in carbon fiber.

(Always remember, carbon fiber is plastic.)

You can go to Amazon and buy from Essential Depot. Their VG is pretty good quality and you can get a gallon for around $28 and a quart for around $13 with shipping included. Sometimes these guys sell "Cube boxes" which will include 4 x gallon sizes of VG or PG for around $60-80 depending on the sale price. But you can find them on Amazon here https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PSGWHIO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

He's never gonna hear the end of this!

Okay, here's my answer. I go the oral route. I make a solution using propylene glycol (aka "PG").

My recipe for 4-ACO-DMT: .5g powder --> 4ml PG, combined in a small amber dropper bottle. Shake well until totally smooth. In my experience, 8 drops is a good starter dose. I just put the drops into a beverage and down it.

Obviously, you need a scale. You can get a decent one for under $20. One that is highly recommended the Gemini-20.

Personally I use this ultrasonic cleaner. When I go to change coils I throw it all in there and put on a few cycles and it comes out surprisingly clean ( seriously, these things are like magic ) . When my driptip looks a little funky I just throw it in solo and it's good to go.

I use a soft wooden test tube stand for inked pens and keep them nib up. Sometimes I have flow issues, but like having them visible and protected. Uninked pens I keep in lined drawers in one of these or a pen case.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PSGWHIO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$18.00 per gallon with an additional $9.00 for shipping. If you order two, its the same $9.00 shipping. So comes out to $22.50 each delivered to my door. I have found a few better deals on occasion but I like the square jugs and how they fit my shelves.

Bluelab if you have the money for sure, but for a cheaper option I'd definitely recommend a Jellas Ph pen. I used it for ages before I upgraded. Just remember to calibrate once a week or so.

https://www.amazon.com/Jellas-Household-Hydroponics-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B00YBUH4RC

I bought a jewelry cleaner machine like this....http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HZVYAVM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1456890117&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=jewelry+cleaner+machine
Best thing I found so far... I wish they made a tiny fuzzy brush to really get in the nooks

Yeah test tube racks are great for storing. This one works well:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I13ZNIC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use 99.9% isopropyl alcohol (electronics cleaner). Works great,

MG Chemicals 824-1L 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol Liquid Cleaner, Clear , 945 mL (1 US Quart) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DNQX3C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jIFPAb1ZECD8F

The reaction that is happening is

Zn + 2 HNO3 -> Zn(NO3)2 + H2

Zinc + nitric acid produces zinc nitrate and hydrogen gas

So as your bath is being exhausted, the HNO3 is being used up. Eventually it'll stop because the HNO3 is all gone. What you could get is some pH paper. That will tell you how acidic the solution is. A fresh batch should have a pH around 0-1. As it reacts it'll get closer to a pH of 7. For your bath, it'll never get above 7 since that is a basic solution.

The reaction might start slowing down once it's above a pH of 5-6, but you'll have to do a little monitoring to see what's best.

Got the Magnasonic and can’t recommend it enough. I love it and you can choose the amount for the cycles (shortest is 3 min) Magnasonic Professional Ultrasonic Jewelry Cleaner with Digital Timer for Eyeglasses, Rings, Coins (MGUC500) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Q2M17K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NY7VDbVMQ9DJ6

My experience with consumer ultrasonic cleaners has been great. If you fill the chamber with water, but use a separate container to hold iso & your gear, you won't have to worry about cleaning.
I use this little fella https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q2M17K/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_6?smid=A3OI2CVBA9DB25&psc=1
[Sorry hyperlink isn't working] which was $30 when I bought it.


That and a shallow tupperware. Any cheap ultrasonic with reviews, really, just get the dimensions of the chamber and make sure you can find a suitable container. I remember reading about an immersible ultrasonic transducer, like just drop the end in a bucket and it vibrates the water, but couldn't find anything. Just industrial ones.

You could probably get away with just doing everything mentioned, but just using a Tupperware container and gently shaking it every 10-20 minutes or so within an hour of soaking with the denture tablets. Ultrasonic cleaners are pretty cheap though, especially compared to HP switches: https://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-Professional-Ultrasonic-Eyeglasses-Instruments/dp/B00HZVYAVM

I use this. Mine came factory calibrated. Double-checked with their provided calibration solutions. Their customer support was very helpful since the calibration solutions do not come with instructions:
https://www.amazon.com/Jellas-Household-Hydroponics-Aquariums-Resolution/dp/B00YBUH4RC/

25% phosphoric acid isn't particularly dangerous, and it's not horribly corrosive. Plastic or glass will be fine. I wouldn't let it sit on metal for an extended period of time, so be careful if you plan to use metal needles with your syringe. Plastic transfer pipettes work nicely, though. I like this style because it allows you to eyeball the amount you're adding without needing anything like a syringe.

Buy vinegar, bicarb, food colouring and pipettes. Put the bicarb in a tray, and mix the vinegar with food colouring in cups. Let the kids use the pipettes to drop vinegar into the bicarb and watch it fizz and bubble!
I do this with my class all the time, and they love it. The colouring just makes it extra fun. Of course, you can also just put the vinegar in a cup or bottle and drop the bicarb in... fwoosh! Explosion!

Ha, right? I always feel awkward ordering syringes/needles, but in reality the gauge you need to pull oil is far to large to easily fit under skin...but try explaining that one without a side look. I buy type 2 fill needles (http://www.amazon.com/Industrial-Syringes-Blunt-Needle-plastic/dp/B00DXPRTHG/ref=pd_sim_0_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=21SzolFINTL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1W5Y0DNPKFJYV3SEHG0Z)

I get mine from amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016Q5YVK2/ - Assorted sizes set (out of stock)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0187LGYCG/ - 5ml Airless Pumps (about the size of my thumb)
I would LOVE to find a glass airless pump bottle though!

A fill syringe is awesome for decanting. You don't have to touch the product, and don't expose as much to air! I got the kind for glycerin and they work pretty well. The thicker creams are a pain, but you can use a syringe if you have patience.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CFJ51X4/

THESE are cheaper and more durable/waterproof. A little bit of spray paint or camo tape and it blends in just as well as the other mentioned containers. In my area we have a lot of waterways and these make GREAT paddle caches.

You can buy them from Goulet pens, they have a 40 vials one.

I found this 50 vial holder, which is the same thing but bigger capacity. It works perfectly. (mine is almost full... I think I went overboard with it).

Ultra sonic cleaner on amazon is $30 shipped. Worth every penny to keep you vape gear clean! Bonus you can speed steep the odd bottle of juice with it.

This is the one I am using. Its worked perfectly right out of the box so no complaints here. I hadn't thought of that but I'm going to go do it right now, thanks for the suggestion!

I'll hook up bro!
Use ecig express to order Flavor Concentrates and bottles
— Use ELRECIPIES for 10% discount

Use The Flavor Apprentice/The Perfume Apprentice for Flavor concentrates
— Be sure that they are made for ecigs
— Better than ecig for bulk orders

Buy vegetable glycerin, and syringes from amazon
— Buy a gallon for bulk
— Buy 10ml, and 1ml syringes
— Buy Tupperware or something to contain 16 oz of liquid to steep ejuice

Buy nicotine from Nude Nicotine
—Purchase “Smooth” Nicotine salts



https://www.amazon.com/Duda-Energy-Syringepk001-Industrial-Syringes/dp/B00NDETMR2/ref=pd_lutyp_bia_3_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00NDETMR2&pd_rd_r=S32X53GMX38H2DP662TC&pd_rd_w=NhTrE&pd_rd_wg=Rt1HG&pf_rd_i=desktop-typ-carousels&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=2798022962&pf_rd_r=S32X53GMX38H2DP662TC&pf_rd_s=desktop-typ-carousels&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=S32X53GMX38H2DP662TC

https://www.amazon.com/Duda-Energy-Syringepk010-Industrial-Syringes/dp/B00DXPRTHG/ref=pd_sim_328_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00DXPRTHG&pd_rd_r=G7GP5J47E1CRQPHET2VD&pd_rd_w=yULCb&pd_rd_wg=yRWOy&psc=1&refRID=G7GP5J47E1CRQPHET2VD

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PSGWHIO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.ecigexpress.com

http://shop.perfumersapprentice.com

https://www.nudenicotine.com/product/nicotine-salts-smooth/

Something like this

One of the best fountain pen related purchases you'll make.

Yeah, I make sure to not shake my bottles, I stir them instead. This keeps paint from accumulating on the top of the bottle cap, preventing it from drying the lid shut as well as preserving the paint longer.

I also buy a ton of these pipettes as well as these medicine cups every few months. I always transfer my paint to a little cup to mix / thin it.

Another tip to extend a paints longevity is to never place thinned paint back into the jar, as it can cause some paints to gel and become useless over time.

I use an ultra sonic jewelry cleaner with gem and jewelry cleaner or simple green. Then just hit it with a tooth brush. Works great.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007Q2M17K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1/178-5677744-3419908?qid=1458924430&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=ultrasonic+jewellery+cleaner

Watch leaving plastic in simple green too long, eventually it will eat the plastic.

Also, I use these 10ml dropper bottles for certain liquids. They're great for decanting foundation and skincare!

What are you using as a dropper? I use 3ml pipettes after trying a few other things and they are perfect for it. They have a large enough hole and suction power to pull up thick, goopy oils and precisely and easily fill a gel cap.

.. by Jove, I think I am. I've heard of folks using brake CLEANER to strip models, hence my knee jerk reaction.

You can get an Ultrasonic on Amazon for like $40. https://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-Professional-Ultrasonic-Eyeglasses-MGUC500/dp/B007Q2M17K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1500241361&sr=8-3&keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner

It's also really good at cleaning uh smoking paraphernalia, not that I would know.

Not to take biz away from a cool fountain pen company but this looks an awfully lot like a Karter Scientific 15/17mm tes tube rack. You can grab one for $6 from Amazon if cash is tight.

I’ve been freezing yeast for a couple years. The process in that link is a lot more complicated then it needs to be.

I use a variation of this process.

1. Build a 2L starter like normal.
   
2. Once Fermentation is complete cold crash and decant.
   
3. Fill 3/4 of a preform, lightly screw on the cap and place in the fridge.
   
4. Revisit the next day and decant till you have 1/2 filled with compacted yeast.
   
5. Top off with 1/2 Beer, 1/2 food grade glycerin.
   
6. Screw on lid, label, shake and place in freezer.
   
   Tips
   You’ll want to be as sanitary as possible.
   I can reliably fill 4 soda preforms.
   I’d recommend one have a different color cap to let you know you’re almost out of that particular yeast strain.
   I keep the beer/glycerin mixture in a mason jar and bring it to a boil from time to time since you won’t use as much of it as you’d expect.
   Save used preforms to re-use.
   Only do this for yeast you’ll use or have a hard time getting ahold of. You’re not saving money by saving yeast you’ll never use.
   If I plan on reusing yeast within 6 months I’ll wash the yeast and place in a mason jar.
   In my experience it takes the yeast a day or two longer to wake up once pitched into a starter. Make sure you build that time into your brew schedule.

This is the one that I got from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I13ZNIC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It is pretty nice. Seems sturdy. Might look at getting little rubber feet for the bottom to stop any accidental sliding. The only thing to know would be any TTO razors will be less steady than a two/three piece just because of the lowered bar in the middle being the part in contact with the wood instead of the whole (or at least both sides) head like a three piece.

Here is a couple pictures I took of mine. http://imgur.com/a/w93ge
(Dovo 5/8 straight, slim, 34c, red flare tip, black handle flare tip, wilkinson sword). There is a little less than 1mm difference between the diameter of the hole and the width of of the straight where it meets. Not snug, but not enough room to rattle.

Edit: Straight razor size

I just got a magnasonic on Amazon. It was this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HZVYAVM?psc=1

Right about $35. I just opened it up last night. It seems well built but I don't have anything to compare it to. I haven't run any coils through it yet but it did clean the jewelery that I tested it out with. This one has the auto 3 minute timer that someone mentioned. So if you want it to run longer, you have to press the On button again after it shuts off.

This one's worked fine for me in the past, it gave me no false positives. I knew I could trust it because the region in which my old houses were located was notorious for its incredibly hard water, and that was the only factor for which my results came back as positive.

Not sure what solder you used, but that looks like flux. Isopropyl alcohol (like this) should work fine as a cleaner.

https://smile.amazon.com/First-Alert-WT1-Drinking-Water/dp/B000FBMAVQ/ref=pd_sim_79_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BNCFD5MHAKWG0RD9Z30X

It cost like $15 to buy a water test. I drink a lot of unfiltered water so I got one. The test said I'm all good. Worth buying and seeing if you should invest in some type of filtration system.