Reddit mentions: The best limit switches

If your kids are old enough to talk and handle the blasters, IMO they're mature enough to learn proper blaster/gun safety. Which is up to you, but I'd recommend things like not looking down the barrel, not pointing it at faces/anything you don't intend to shoot, and always assuming it's loaded.

If you don't trust them with the blasters, put them somewhere safe and have them ask you if they want to play with them. They'll probably end up jamming the blaster somehow and shredding darts, because I've seen college students do the same.

For the trigger switch, something like this would be a good switch, and you can watch the Make Test Battle Super Stryfe video for a guide on how to do the switch and some rewiring demos.

If you can get a good balancing charger and can be responsible and safe with it, a lipo will definitely be better than IMRs as far as performance goes. If you do go with lipos, you should probably get a better rev switch.

Here's a good rev switch:
https://www.amazon.com/SODIAL-Microswitch-V-156-1C25-plunger-action/dp/B00K67YO8G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496202242&sr=8-2&keywords=15A+microswitch

And here's a great lipo:
https://www.amazon.com/ZIPPY-Compact-1000mAh-Lipo-Pack/dp/B00TDCDKLW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496202444&sr=8-1&keywords=zippy+compact+1000mah+3s+25c+lipo+pack

Just checked and it will fit in a standard shell, but you will have to dremel out one of the trigger cover screw posts and a good amount of the shell underneath. You also have to dremel down the switch itself a bit. and on both Hori's and GC's you will have to delete the vibration motor and dremel down the vibe motor mounting bracket. I'll make a full guide soon if I have enough interest.


The switches I use are "Blee" microswitches. They are pretty big and you can find smaller ones, but they have an incredible feeling click that smaller ones won't match.

They can be bought cheep, on amazon. You COULD look for just the switch (Looks like a KW11 style microswitch) if you wanted to but you would have to be comfortable with soldering/desoldering to install it.

Might be worth getting the 3 pack linked above as the lever you replaced probably wont last on the switch so it would be better to replace both now and have a spare.

Ahah! I knew there was some type of button/switch like that but I didn't know what it was called or where to look. It looks like I could get some limit switches like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06WRN7FQB/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501434511&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=limit+switch&psc=1

Thanks for the idea. It will be much easier to add a switch than a photo resister the way I already have things wires.

They come in lots of sizes and with different kinds of actuators depending on how you want to use them.
They are pretty cheap.
They normally have 3 terminals: a ‘common’, a ‘normally open’ and ‘normally closed.
As you might imagine, when the switch is just sitting there the common and NC are connected, and when you press it that swaps to the common and normally open being connected.
They are pretty cheap: here’s a kit with a bunch of different actuators to give you an idea:
Swpeet 24Pcs Micro Limit Switch Assorment Kit, Long Hinge Roller Momentary Cherry Push Button SPDT Snap Action Perfect for Arduino, Appliance and Electronic Equipment - V-151/152/153/154/155/156-1C25 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HKDFB4Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RbWlDbHMCZ10J

Awesome. Thanks.

Lots of good stuff to check up on there. I'll look into it.

EdIt: I just ordered these.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071KBC3P8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_lzrYDbE1TZVRN

Basically what I'm building is a remote Controlled opening travel box for birds of prey. I work with birds of prey and am looking to have their travel box open via remote so I can trigger the door open and have them fly to the glove from a distance.

The door is a corrugated plastic that slides up in a similar fashion to a garage door. Basically my design is to weight the door, and attach a line to a spool on the gear motor, that when engaged, the spool will either wind the line, opening the door, or unwind the spool, closing the door. I wanted the limit switches so that when the door opens or closes to its maximum point, the limit switch will trigger and prevent damage to the plastic door.

I figured it might just be easiest to link all my components!

Power source 12v 2ah drill battery

https://www.amazon.ca/Tacklife-Cordless-Lithium-Ion-Replacement-100-240V/dp/B07FJXK4NR/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=12v+drill+battery&qid=1565313916&s=gateway&sprefix=12v+drill&sr=8-6

4 channel rf switch

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B07LFDQCWS?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

Limit switches

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B07HFTGZSP?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

12v gear motor

https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/12v-reversible-gear-motor/A-p8365298e

Running on 18ga wiring

Once again I really appreciate the help!

Battery, Voltmeter, Wire, Pusher, Motors, MotorCover, Micro Switch, Charging Stuff, Charging Stuff, You're idea is pretty good, no comments on improvement.

Edit: Formatting

Thanks for the approval, mod bot. These switches are bog standard, here's an amazon link: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B076GM7JQP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There's a schematic diagram on this picture on the Amazon link: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41hJy3AQHwL.jpg

Leg sizes are in the title.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076GM7JQP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are same ones as the stock but the switch are a bit low and have to be pulled up. Once hooked up the buttons are great and feel like the arcade and not stiff.

That looks like a very interesting machine. I know someone that needs something similar.

I'm imagining that you are holding the bottle up to the nozzle, and want it to trigger a fill cycle immediately when the bottle is in position. I'd probably just use a regular momentary limit switch mounted under and behind the fill nozzle, like on a soda fountain.

Here's a link to the type of switch I'm talking about: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HKBPRJC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_mQuVCbJX1CBH6

You'd have to experiment to find the right way to mount the switch in the right position, but once you get it set up, this should be fairly foolproof.

Depending on how the foot pedal is wired, you may be able to just wire it up instead of the pedal.

How do you regulate fill volume on that machine? If the pedal needs to be released to stop filling, you may be able to use an arduino to read the switch, and then simulate the pedal press for a specified amount of time.

In my case it sounds exactly like one of these things if you’ve played with one

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MW2RPJY

I wonder what part of what computer would have such a switch or some other small mechanical feature which could sound similar

The switch you picked is a bit overkill and not really for what you want.
Try one of these wired in series on the positive wire of your battery pack.

MagiDeal 3Pcs/Set Mechanical Endstop Limit Optical Switch For 3D Printer Ramps 1.4 with 24inch Cable length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0758VR584/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BWsRBbDWRKFWE

PM me if you have questions.

Well my Stryfe has a pair of MTB Rhino motors instead of the stock ones. They're 12v instead of the 6v stock motors, and run on a 3S LiPo battery instead of the four AAs in series it normally takes.

1.5v * 4 = 6v max vs the LiPo at 12.6v max

I made this to help it fit.

Keep in mind that you need to redo the wiring with something thicker to keep from burning it out. And replace the stock trigger switch with something heavier, I think I used one of these.

I put a little voltage meter on connected to the jam door as well, so I know when it's running low.

So basically I've completely replaced all of the electrical components but it sure hits a lot harder now. You can actually get some decent range from it.

If I wanted to mess with it further I'd probably replace the flywheels with something that could grip a bit better, but the problem I ran into messing with it last time was if they grip too hard they shred darts.

You will almost certainly need these eventually. DrZzs (youtuber who does a lot of projects like this) used these ones on his shades. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N819HR6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=drzzs0e-20&linkId=66a0ba94906f50efb1ee77fd595a0fc2&language=en_US

electrical tape bro. or solder and tape. but hey, you can get all new endstops in sets of 3 for like 10 bucks

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here

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DWQZCBY/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=technivorous-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B07DWQZCBY&linkId=191fc8eec04a468c80bc5ace44ff9427

Google search or amazon search helps...

http://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Micro-Switch-Roller-Action/dp/B00E0JOTV8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465248272&sr=8-1&keywords=microswitch

And your batteries are most certainly not 40 amps. That's more current then what an outlet gives out. Find the rating in C.

Ex: 25C, 15C, 2C, ect.

Also, if you're using Rhinos, use a 3s LiPo. That's what they're for.

You can get a 5-pack for $11.99 via Amazon Prime:
https://www.amazon.com/HICTOP-Pieces-Printer-Endstops-Mechanical/dp/B014Y0VGOU

These have the JST-XH connectors. Cheaper sets have the black connectors for 0.1" spaced bare pins, like on a RAMPS board.

Would this work? The roller arm could roll along the brake pedal. At 12V i think it would support 5-6 amps. I would need to wire it up as Normally Open, so that as the pedal returns to its highest position it would push the arm towards the switch body.

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Switch-Roller-Momentary-Action/dp/B0052ITO8O/ref=pd_bxgy_328_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0052ITO8O&pd_rd_r=S28577D90WCSW2ZEJMF5&pd_rd_w=8Mu6s&pd_rd_wg=Yi0Lh&psc=1&refRID=S28577D90WCSW2ZEJMF5

You're going to be looking for something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BF8KXW3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Mhv4CbV5G6G18

I would recommend using two limit switches or touch sensors instead. These are more reliable and easier to use sensors for this application.

the logic is something like

if wanting to go up: if up is pressed stop lift else run lift up

else if wanting to go down: if down is pressed stop lift else run lift down

else: stop motor

http://www.revrobotics.com/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0171G7HCY

And.... It turns out this is just a makerbot end stop - and easily available on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/DZS-Elec-Mechanical-Endstop-Makerbot/

Do you have any close-up shots of how you mounted your optical switches? All the ones I can find (on Amazon, etc.) come in these inconvenient packages that will stick far out from my robot frame. Can't figure out how to mount these elegantly.

Is amazon an option for you? I have not used these but I found https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DWQZCBY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uVd4Cb8VNZKM6

Try homing the X axis. And before it finishes homing, press the limit switch (looks like https://www.amazon.com/Creality-3D-Printer-Separate-Package/dp/B07BF8KXW3). It should stop immediately since pressing that switch tells the board that the X has hit the end. If it stops, then the carriage might not be hitting the switch. If it doesn't stop, then check your wires first and then try using the switch from the Y or Z axis instead to see if it's a board, cable, or switch issue.

There are two different types of rotary encoders, absolute and incremental/relative.

Relative encoders can't report position absolutely, and are usually homed by a third index channel (in additional to the A and B quadrature channels). An absolute encoder has a unique bit pattern for each position, and doesn't require indexing upon power up.

More info here

If the encoder you have doesn't have an index channel, I would use a limit switch to reset the position.

Creality 3D Printer Part Limit Switch With Separate Package CNC for RAMPS 1.4 RepRap 3D Printer CR-10 10S,S4 ,S5 (Pack of 3) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07BF8KXW3/

I believe this one? https://www.amazon.com/Creality-3D-Printer-Separate-Package/dp/B07BF8KXW3

Micro Switch - TOOGOO(R) 20 Pcs Mini Micro Limit Switch Long Roller Lever Arm SPDT Snap Action https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G6PC384/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_8yfFyb5C0H6M3

If you don't mind waiting a month these are 15a.

If you can solder then you could replace it with one of these (not 100% if exact replacement)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0171G7HCY/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1509829078&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=micro+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=41I3C%2B2pg%2BL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K67YO8G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3G3SQGWUPUX9W is a switch I've seen used. As long as your batteries don't rhyme with schmustfires.

what about this? https://www.amazon.com/SODIAL-Microswitch-V-156-1C25-plunger-action/dp/B00K67YO8G

You need to bend the spring in to it or get some new end stops really cheep 3D Printer Parts and Accessories, FYSETC 3D Printer Limit Switch Mechanical Switch Module Endstops Switch with 3 Pins 39.4 inch Cable for Ramps RepRap Tevo Tornado- 3 Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DWQZCBY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YlwjDbSZQQYVW

I must be confused about how switches are rated. This was is listed as a 15A rating. Which should be adequate right? Or maybe you were meaning that for the given size of the switch it could have a higher amp rating?

No problem. Most limit switches won't specify if they're normally open or closed, but if they have 3 contacts then 99% of the time you can configure them to be either. For example, these have both a normally open and a normally closed contact. However I wouldn't go for those ones specifically though because they're only 5A, I'd look for something closer to 10A.