(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best painting & art supplies

First off, that's so thoughtful!

I'm no expert by any means. I am very much a beginner with not much to show for it, but I got into watercolor in a roundabout way through calligraphy and hand lettering. Now, despite only putting in some months experience, I have poured hours into finding a nice starter set for myself, so hopefully I can shortcut some of this for you.

I respectfully disagree with the other commenters. As convenient as national chain hobby shops are, they are pricey for that convenience, and I rarely find people who know a lot about one thing versus a little about a lot of things. The only exception I've found to this near me is Jerry's Artarama, but that might be different where you are. If I'm in a pinch and I can't wait the two days for shipping, I will only go into a Michaels or Hobby Lobby if I am armed with one of their 40-50% coupons. Even then, 9 times out of 10 it is more expensive than ordering via Amazon for the materials I am looking for. Additionally, since they can only carry so much inventory, I only find (1) the most basic (cheap in price and quality) items or (2) very famous names.

Watercolors can seem very expensive if you're measuring price per mL, but remember that high quality pigments are meant to be diluted with water, and a little bit goes a very long way. Watercolors are also meant to be mixed! Your SO will want to learn about color theory as she goes (tons of great youtube classes on this too), so that also means to start she doesn't need a massive set. So long as she has most of the primaries she will start coming up with all the colors she needs for her project. Additionally, as she gets more into it, she might find that while she likes her set from X brand, she likes the burnt sienna from Y brand, and the french ultramarine from Z brand. Getting tube colors + an empty watercolor tin will give her a strong base to start painting right away but the flexibility to add her own colors piece by piece as she plans more projects and paintings. Also, when tube paints dry in the tin (you can rewet them/reuse them later), they become portable, giving the same convenience of pan sets.

This was my starter set from [calligraphy] (https://www.amazon.com/Kuretake-Picture-Letter-MC20-36V/dp/B001MPA6W4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511058329&sr=8-1&keywords=kuretake+gansai+tambi+watercolors). I love the pigments, but in retrospect I could've gotten by with WAY LESS colors. In retrospect, I should've gotten something like this with a tin. Remember, the tin doubles as a mixing palette. Daniel Smith is a very popular American brand, but surely not the end all be all. Windsor & Newton, English brand, is also popular, and they have a fairly good "student" grade line called Windsor & Newton Cotman where you can save some money but not skimp out on too much quality.

Watercolor is almost exclusively done on paper. Now, since water and paper generally don't mix, you'll be concerned with the "pounds" of the paper. For everyday practice, many watercolorists are comfortable with 140 lbs spiral bound pads of cold press (meaning it's a bit rough in texture, not smooth). I like spiral bound because you can flip through and work on a few different concurrent projects (for the love of god, make sure they're completely dry first though q.q). These will buckle and warp with very heavy water application. Final projects, or anything meant for professional scanning and printing or super heavy wet work, you will probably be buying 200 lbs+ paper as needed. These can be bought in blocks/pads or as single sheets. As the pounds go up, so does the price.

Brushes! These can also get very pricey, but as with the pigments, there may be some sense in it. Higher end brushes are affixed with either natural or synthetic (or a mix) of hairs that (1) hold more water than cheap brushes and (2) keep the hairs from falling out into your paints or painting. I personally use Windsor and Newton brushes, but I don't have a lot of different types yet, and that seems to be fine to learn on. A round brush goes a long way, as you learn to put down a lot of color or very fine lines depending on how much pressure you put on the paper. As a starter set you might get two round brushes in two sizes like a 4 and a 12.

Finally, while there are lots of artists in Art Fundamentals, I might post this specifically in /r/learnart or /r/watercolor for more insight. Most of us here are working on constructional drawing with pen and paper, not necessarily painting.

Get a respirator with gas/vapour filters, the amount of paint you'll see on the filters after just a couple of uses will justify it! I got this kit: https://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/3M-6000-Half-Mask-Airbrushing-Pack-3M6000ABK.html and am happy with it!

I sprayed without it a couple of times and felt light headed afterwards, and was blowing paint out of my nostrils for a while after, I always use the mask since.

Because of the cats, an extracting painting station is a good idea if you can paint near a window or other outlet for the pipe, but you'd want to self build one with a really meaty fan (sealed bathroom extractor), as the generic kits you can buy tend to have a very low flow computer fan in them that simply doesn't do anything at all.

I have this: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Portable-Spray-Booth-Extraction-Filter/dp/B0050BQQUW

And the fan just is nowhere near strong enough. For now I run a normal household fan pointing at the painting area which is right next to an open window.... and hope for the best! At some point I will replace the fan as it really is not good enough right now.

At the very least, a cardboard box to catch overspray is a must.

As for the airbrush itself, I got this kit and its excellent https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00JAJTKWQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

the compressor and tank are absolutely great, the airbrush is cheap but very cheerful, I may get another for more precise work later but for now it's plenty! Make sure to remove the plug from the bottom of the tank after every use to let condensation drain out and avoid rust.

Useful accessories:

• Cleaning pot: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01JRON3UI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  You spray cleaner through the airbrush into this pot as its a harmful chemical when atomised, the pot catches and collects the liquid cleanly and safely. Has a filter where the air comes out.
  
  
• Cleaning solution: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002X6BNYQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Thinner: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002X6DTHK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Add a couple drops before adding paint to the cup on the brush, then stir together. Makes your paint go further and apply neater - always thin your paints :)
  
  
• A turntable is helpful if you want to varnish using airbrush (would recommend). I got one bundled in with the extractor station.
  
  I hope that's all helpful :)

Long post incoming....

So, I don't think I've seen many airbrush discounts. Badger did a nice promotion where you could buy any airbrush for $55 for their 55 year anniversary this summer, but other than that it's kind of hard to find discounts. As far as Prime Day, I doubt they're going to have discounts on airbrushes, that's a pretty niche product they don't really get into. If you want to get started with that, I'd do something like this:

• Paasche D3000R Compressor this is the one I use... it's held up over the past 10 years quite well, painted some ~12,000 points of Marines, Guard, Knights, and Chaos with it.
  
  
• Iwata Neo Airbrush Iwata airbrushes rock... I use an Iwata HP-CS, which is really good, but like 3x more expensive than this. This would be a good starter brush that should do the job though.
  
  
• Airbrush Hood You can put this on your desk and you just spray into it. It has a fan which pulls paint dust through the filter in the back, very important to prevent you from breathing paint and getting colored dust everywhere.
  
  You then need a cleaning pot, some cleaning fluid, and an airbrush hose All told, that's like $300.
  
  Then you need paint, paint brushes, a hobby knife, super glue, a mini hand drill, some small drill bits, sprue cutters, basing materials (cork board, model railroad ballast, etc) and I find a pair of tweezers helpful. That could add up to another $200 in materials (and obviously can cost way more, paint is expensive). So of your $550 budget, you would then have $50 remaining for models... which will buy you one model kit. So if you're looking to get started for $550, I'd probably forget the airbrush for now, and just get paints that can be used with one later. I recommend Vallejo paints. The eyedropper bottles work great for airbrushing, and you can just thin them with water. I haven't met one yet that doesn't work. A paint set like this would set you up nicely for doing an Imperial Guard army.
  
  As far as what army to play... Guard is fun, but if you like the modern military aesthetic, Space Marines might be more what you're after. The new Repulsor Executioner tanks look awesome, and the new Primaris marines are great looking models... some of the best GW has produced. The Guard kits are looking kinda... dated IMO.

Hey! I was in a similar situation a few months ago with around a $200 budget as well. Here's what I got:

Airbrush: Iwata Revolution - It's a great airbrush and is almost always on sale on Amazon for under $100. It's easy to use, easy to clean, and is solvent safe, meaning you can spray more than just acrylics.

Compressor: Master Airbrush - I wanted something with a tank on it because I didn't want it to run the entire time, and this one fit the bill. It's super quiet (I can even run it at night), and it comes with a moisture trap, which is super important. It also comes with a hose!

That brings everything to about $200, so there's not much wiggle room to fit other stuff in if you draw a hard line on your budget, but definitely consider:

Spray Booth: Master Airbrush- This thing is amazing. I love it. It's compact and super easy to use. It folds up super tidy and even has a button to retract the cord.

Cleaner: Iwata-Medea Airbrush Cleaner - comes in different sizes, but it's been wonderful when cleaning out my brush between paints or when I need to do my monthly field-strip.

Thinner, Retarder, and Flow Improver: Vallejo products!- I love the Vallejo Auxillaries. They're easy to use, pretty cheap, and widely available depending where you live.

$100 will get you pretty far! obligatory ymmv, a lot of supplies depend on what and how you paint (do you paint large or small? do you paint outside a lot and need a travel kit? and so on), etc, etc, but here is how i would spend the money:

• paints
  
  kuretake gansai tanbi, 36 color set - the best set of watercolors i have used and relatively cheap, the colors are vibrant, mix well, and set beautifully.
  
  
  
• paper
  
  probably where most of the money should go after upgrading your paints. i like the strathmore 500 series and the canson papers for sketching and learning. other higher end brands that are recommended a lot are arches, bee paper, and fluid 100. definitely try out both hot press and cold press, people usually develop a preference but one is not necessarily better than the other.
  
  
• brushes
  
  honestly, brushes are not that important as long as they are not frayed or shedding. i've seen tons of professionals use and recommend this cheap set by grace art. i also like the princeton neptune brushes.
  
  
• extras
  
  if you still have money left, i would suggest trying something cool like metallic and pearlescent paints if it interests you. or use the money towards other mediums if you want to branch out.

I think it's cool you want to pick up a hobby your father had. It will be a nice reminder every time you pick up the gun.

I use this 100% for miniatures, and it works great!!

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Alright, here is the list I bought. It's a bit more than you want to spend, but this will ensure you can get going right away, and not be frustrated. I did a fair amount of research on different forums, sites, and youtube videos. If you want to know why I chose something, feel free to ask. I was going to bold the ones that you absolutely need, but I would say everything in the first set are a must.

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• Airbrush - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQKFAI/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Compressor - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TDNKBMC/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (One of the quietest compressors - I use it in the house and my gf can't hear it kick on, and she sleeps in the room right above it.)
  
• Airbrush Hose - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BF7NJ78/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Moisture Trap - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQO8WY/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Couplers - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TFE7WK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (Didn't need this big of a set, but if you end up with tools for the compressor they will come in handy.)
  
• Airbrush Cleaner kit - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y3MG6Z4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Respirator - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Z4EB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Extra Filters - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NTP9MDO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  ​
  
  
• Cleaner - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TJA0S6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Thinner - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002X6DTHK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Improver - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QD780G0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  ​
  
  
• Primer I use for minis - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004BMZVMK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  ​
  
  For the compressor, I keep mine at about 18-20 while doing miniatures and it's perfect.
  
  I do 1 drop Improver, 5 drops thinner, and 6 drops primer and have perfect flow.
  
  ​
  
  Feel free to ask any questions! Good luck!
  
  Hvstle

You wanna be the best fiance ever u/vickicamfield?

Get him one of these.

His neck will thank you, his hands will thank you, his precision will thank you. Probably the best purchase I've ever made for minis. You can snag em at most hobby shops.

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Bonus, if he wants to do detail work I recommend a cheap set of reading glasses. He won't have to strain his eyes as much and they are a nice magnifying glass....es... you get the point lol.

​

PS: I recommend bright white light for better color recognition and more akin to natural light.

Edit: Also if he is thinning with water, get this. I find it works better than water and mixes with metallics!

Edit 2: For brush care, dont forget to get some brush cleaner and conditioner. Maybe a wet palette for longer paint sessions. For brushes, winsor and newton are always a solid choice.

Edit 3: Folks are asking for essentials. Here is a short list:Vallejo thinner
Masters brush conditioner
Wet palette
Kolinsky brushes
Mini holder
Liquid cement for plastics
Vallejo paints
Citadel paints
Warhammer TV
Cheap airbrush for prime/basecoat

Not that you're looking for advice or anything, but an easy way to add some real nice detail and durability to minis you actually use in play is to use what's called the "dip" method. Essentially you brush on or dip your mini into either a wood stain or special dip product like this

https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Quickshade-Miniature-Painting/dp/B004UVVTXM#customerReviews

The dark pigment works its way into the nooks and crannies of the mini, then dries and makes the details really pop. Then you spray a light coat of spray matte varnish on the mini which takes off the gloss from the dip.

Not only does this give your minis some added depth but the two layers also protect the paint so it doesn't scratch or flake off, making them way more robust in actual play. Plus it's super easy so you could do all your minis in just an hour or two. Just some friendly advice.

Rubbing alcohol - I have no idea! I think it does break down the colours but USE IT GENTLY because you can bleed right through paper if you're not careful. My mom showed me how to do this when I was young and just learning how to use Prismacolours.

Generally when needing to fill something with solid colours I'll use a circular motion for even coverage rather than line-shaped strokes, but yeah, that's basically the idea.

Currently the lighting on the picture is kind of undefined - you have shadows underneath things, but light plays in strange ways and reflected / refracted light also does weird stuff. This tutorial kinda explains things better than I can: http://theartcenter.blogspot.se/2010/03/sam-nielson-painting-process.html - Basically, you want to think about where your primary light source is, how the material you're colouring will interact with that light, and then the shape of what you're colouring. Rimlight is the white around the edges of say, Lugia's wings.

I will recommend these watercolour sets because I LOVE them: http://www.amazon.com/Pelikan-Color-Opaque-Watercolor-Set/dp/B00170ZSLS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462365768&sr=8-1&keywords=pelikan+watercolours Used them for years. They're student grade but I love how they work. Make sure you're using sturdy paper!

I am using these watercolours currently: http://www.amazon.com/color-Kuretake-picture-letter-Unleashed/dp/B001MPA6W4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462365862&sr=8-1&keywords=japanese+watercolours They're flipping fantastic, if not a bit more expensive.

LMK if you have more questions / need more clarification. :D

I just went through this myself and am very happy with my purchases. This is a complete entry level set with the tools you will need to maintain it. Assuming you're US based, you could have everything Monday with Prime shipping.

• Airbrush - $27 - This is a basic brush with the ability to change between 0.2, 0.3(most common), and 0.5mm tips. This gives you the flexibility to go from precise to blanket applications.
  
  
• Compressor - $120 - I opted for a model with a tank to help regulate the air output. The compressor still ends up running most of the time during extended applications so I'm not sure how much it helps but I didn't want to take chances. You could save ~$40 by getting a model without a tank. You could always add a tank later if you feel the need.
  
  
• Cleaner - $12 - You need this before you even think about starting. One cleaner seems about as good as another so pick whatever.
  
  
• Tools - $7 - You will need to clean paint from the internals. Some of these brushes will work for that. There seems to be differing opinions in the community over how useful these are but I opted for them and use them every so often.
  
  
• Cleaning Pot - $15 - You will need one for your station and everyone uses this one. Definitely spray the cleaner through into this.
  
  
• Wash Bottle - $6 - 500 mL bottle you fill with water. This will allow you to rinse the pot at your station without having to go to a sink (though you still might use one often). Get a bucket or tupperware container to rinse into.
  
  This will allow you to setup a bare-bones station. You could also get a fume hood or just spray into a box in a well ventilated room. Get a good white led light (if you don't have on already) to illuminate your workspace and you're good to go.

Its an endearing model because every modeler has one like it. Pretty good job for being a first kit!

As for airbrushes... I started with the super cheap Master brand airbrush. Later on I got a Japanese made Iwata. I can say that buying the Master airbrush + compressor is the perfect starter. This is a good example: https://www.amazon.com/Master-Performance-Airbrushing-Dual-Action-Airbrush/dp/B0017640RK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1482902837&sr=8-7&keywords=airbrush+compressor+tank

You get an airbrush that will be a perfect starter and a good compressor that will last you into your next step up airbrush.

I recommend staying with acrylic paints-- just easier to work with.

For putty, to fill seams with, I also recommend Perfect Putty. It's water based so it's easy to clean up and work with. You put some on a tray and use a toothpick to apply to a gap or seam, then wipe excess off with brush or finger. After it dries you can use sandpaper or a wet cottonswab to remove excess.

https://www.amazon.com/DELUXE-MATERIALS-DLXBD044-Perfect-Plastic/dp/B0076LAVFK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482902965&sr=8-2&keywords=hobby+putty

What is your next kit?

watercolors LINK

we starting to use it in art schools and continue to use them in art academy. they really are good. no need to dig deeper in more expensive, pro watercolors.

fancy watercolors (i personally love them, but really, basically fo fun, mixed media) LINK

watercolor pad LINK

that's my choice. would highly recommend this producer, really great absorption, thick paper, different formats available. anyway, it's really good.

brushes is really very personal choice, depends on technic and such. I like this one LINK great for miniature work. You can look for some squirrel hair brushes in local store orLINK , they are good for starters and for wet painting.

EDIT. fanart sample where all those stuff used at once :P

1. An Airbrush uses the same paints you would normally brush on. It thins them down and applies them in a similar way to using a aerosol spray can, but with a smaller spray patter and significantly more control.
   
   2.) Once you get the hang of it, you can do fades, highlights, preshading, base coating and priming in a fraction of the time it would take to do with a normal brush.
   
   You also use a LOT less paint when applying base coats and primers. Less than half of an $8 bottle of Vallejo grey primer has done over 200 space marines for me!
   
   3.) If you're in the US, Amazon has a package deal that gives you a brush, compressor, and cleaning supplies for $300! That's a really good deal, and will save you a lot of money on paint in the long run.
   
   4.) You need to thin your paints to use an airbrush, GW and Vallejo make airbrush paints that are almost 100% "out of the pot" ready to be used. I really like them for both airbrushing and normal painting, they cost the same as regular paints do.
   
   If you're spraying lacquers or varnishes you absolutely want to use a respirator (that stuff is NASTY!). If you're just spraying regular acrylic paints, a face mask is usually enough.
   
   5.) Airbrushes aren't a "Easy Button" to painting. They take time to understand and become comfortable with, but that time is well spent. The internet is full of amazing tutorials on how to do awesome stuff with an airbrush.
   
   They also require constant cleaning to maintain proper function, it can be really daunting to take your brush apart for the first time.

First off, Great work! As someone just starting you did really well!

As for things to look to do to improve that I noticed.

• Thin your paints, and use at least 2 thin layers. Duncan from Warhammer TV says this constantly). It really does make the colors and application come out better. If the water to paint ratio is tricky to maintain due to evaporation use a medium. I like Liquitex Flow Aid.
  
  
• Washes. Mainly for the metal bits Nuln Oil, eagles on the chest plate Seraphim Sepia, and robes.
  
  
• Fix up the details with a fine brush. It mainly shows on the shoulder pads, yet it is there elsewhere.
  
  
• Highlights. Simple yet tedious to do. However, it makes the model come alive so much more!
  
  
• Mold lines. Get an x-acto knife and just shave the parts off you don't want. Using the back end of it should work just fine.
  
  Warhammer TV is an excellent resource for figuring out how to do painting tecniques with a demonstration and walk through.
  
  A lot of what I'm sharing with you I ignored for far too long. I can tell you the model I am painting now looks far better than the model I was painting a year ago.
  
  This article is great inspiration for painters of any skill level.
  
  Keep it up, keep improving, and if you learn something don't hesitate to share it and how it works for you.
  
  I look forward to seeing your next model and/or squad you paint.

I think they're a great starter kit. You get a wide variety of colors. The problem with them is that there are mixed opacities -- sometimes two colors right next to each other on the color wheel might be different. One green could be opaque, one could be transparent.

I used them exclusively as my travel palette until I started to build out my collection of professional colors.

My absolutely favorite "set" is the Kuretake Gansai Tambi set ($29 on Amazon). Keep in mind, these are Japanese style, so they will be richer in color, but I absolutely love how brilliant everything is. This was definitely my workhorse at home while I was building out my professionals... but truth be told, sometimes I still go back to these because I love them so much.

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EDIT: Adding some links to works myself and my sister-in-law have done with them, so you can see the richness.

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2.

3.

4.

For fineliners, I would highly recommend Faber-Castell Pitt Artist Pens, in the thinnest tip size. But if you're going to get these, I HIGHLY recommend buying the pack with all 4 tip sizes and picking the one you like best, since a lot of people have different preferences. All the sizes will come in handy at some point for bullet journalling. They're about $10 on Amazon for the 4 pack.

If you're a student and you're planning on using your bujo to write down HW and/or you also wanna be a bit more cost efficient, I recommend gel pens. It gets really annoying to have to switch between a fineliner for writing HW and stuff in my journal and using a pen to take notes or do something for class (which is why I use a fineliner in the summer and a gel pen during the school year LOL). I recommend the Pentel Energel Gel Pen, in the 0.3 mm size. They dry super quick, so they're great to use for highlighting or if you're a leftie. And they look just as nice as a fineliner on your standard journal paper. Also great for taking notes in school because of the quick drying time. To save money, what I do is use an existing pen body I have (I have a zebra sarasa pen body) and just replace the existing ink with Pentel Energel refills. A pack of 12 refills is $11 on Amazon. I bought the refill pack a year and a half ago and still have 5 refills left. Or if you want the actual pen itself, it's $7 for a pack of 3.

Hope this helped!

I really like this writeup as a jumping point for learning how to lube. There's also lots of helpful info in the comments, or you could just ask questions there. If you're looking for a specific video guide I'd recommend Krelbit's; IIRC he uses 3204 in it but the process is the same.

As for brushes, I like this pack from amazon. There's one in there that's the exact size of an MX bottom housing slider rail which is nice, but it also includes a bunch of smaller ones. Brush size is a preference thing so it's best to test a bunch IMO.

Speaking of testing, experimentation is SUPER important with lubing. Everyone has different preferences so it's good to try different amounts of lube on a few switches to see what it feels like. I'd recommend at least intentionally overlubing one switch to see what it feels like, then trying different combinations of lubing certain spots and not lubing others. e.g. I prefer to only lube my stems.

edit: Here's one specifically using 205g0: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5y5KoRFWXe8

>Constructive criticism for how I can improve my art is greatly appreciated :)

I think it's good, but it needs some technical love. Study anatomy, buy a mannequin for reference, get the details right - it looks to me like his left upper arm is about half as long as it should be, and that his neck isn't centered on his shoulders. Some of the coloring is throwing me off too, like there's shaded bits in his shoulder armor, head, gauntlets, yet other areas like his upper sleeve are just flat blocks of color? And I can't tell what's up with his lower half, like what's below that last maroon piece, and are there even legs there? Finally I don't think the detailed, almost airbrushed quality of the skybox is really working with the comic book/screenprint-style colorblocking of the main illo.

Most of my friends are full-time artists and I've written for Juxtapoz, Hi-Fructose, and have written a lot of art and design articles for automotive magazines. The number one thing most young artists get wrong is accuracy, like the anatomy issues I pointed out. You can do anything you want with a thing, that's what makes your art your own, but you have to first be able to render that thing correctly. Unless you're Picasso, but even he could do it if he'd wanted to.

So I'd pay more attention to style overall and make your choices cohesive, and I'd work harder on presenting living creatures more accurately. But do keep working, you have the talent to make good stuff. Go for it!

Seriously considering getting an airbrush since brush painting is my least favorite part of modeling lol. I have a large stand up compressor but it doesn't have a moisture trap. Price wise to get everything I need to use my current compressor I could get this set for a little less money. I'd get a better brush down the road if I I liked airbrushing but would this be a decent starting set or should I just save up a little more and hope I enjoy it lol.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010TQCOEE/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1486139264&sr=8-11&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=airbrush

Couldnt resist the sns sale on this pair for about $130. and i knew id be blacking out that boost before i bought. (sorry dont see it available any longer, but its on goat and stockx for 120-160ish depending on size.) i wanted to try the full angelus method since heskicks said it lasted on youtube, and it took me 3 days on and off this weekend.

full photo album progress here with comparison pix in different steps of the method and against "OEM" black adidas boost https://imgur.com/a/5RE2d

STEPS

Day 1 – deglaze and dye. Deglazed before dinner, painted dye layer 1, wait 10 mins then dye layer 2. Let dry overnight.

Day 2 – Dye reducer. Feelgoodkicks on youtube said this was important to eliminate cracking and that purpleish sharpie-like tint, so I tried it. Make sure to very lightly roll a Q-tip over your dye work, otherwise else you can completely remove all your work. Later that day I painted with the flat black paint. Waited 10 mins then did a 2nd layer.

Day 3 – Acrylic Paint. Wait 10 mins and do a 2nd layer. Still looked too glossy to me, so I masked the upper and sprayed with krylon later that day. And a 2nd layer a few mins after as the instructions state to get my finished product. Also added alternate laces and gunmetal grey aglets. Didnt end up using the mink oil since Im worried the boost will gloss up, but I still might try some later.


OVERALL TIPS

With any painting, take your time and do LIGHT layers to prevent chipping/cracking as much as possible.

I didnt mask the upper when painting since i went slowly, but paint brushes are actually easier to use very close to the primeknit than the sharpies were. I normally painted that upper edge first, then used a larger brush to paint the main part of the boost.

Krylon spray was a must. Album has a comparison photo with just angelus finish and its super glossy compared to the krylon finish. Using krylon finish alone, however, the paint rubbed off the boost whenever i touched it. so gotta do both

PREVIOUS POST (sharpie method)

https://www.reddit.com/r/Sneakers/comments/7thl9p/iniki_boost_blackout_oil_based_sharpie_matte/

Since the previous sharpie method rubbed off a bit on my fingers, I retouched with the anglus acrylic finish and then krylon again to get it more matte. Seemed to do the job.

I think for the sharpie method id have to add deglazer and angelus finish. so a total of 4 purchases would be good (deglazer, sharpie, angelus acrylic finish, krylon matte finish)



PRODUCT LINKS

Angelus Leather Preparer & Deglazer 4 Oz - $6.60
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EU322DQ

Angelus Brand Leather Dye W/applicator - 3 Oz ''Jet Black'' - $6.75
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016QV7XIS

Angelus Acrylic 4 Ounce Paint (Flat Black) - $8.49
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MPXF6XG

Angelus Brand Acrylic Leather Paint Matte Finisher No. 620 - 4oz - $7.59
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B5W4LX4

Krylon Matte Finish - $3.47
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ENZ8CS

Heartybay Nylon Paint Brush Set - $5.98
https://www.amazon.com/Heartybay-10Pieces-Round-Pointed-Nylon/dp/B00V4EG6D6

I airbrush all my bodies. I basically have this setup. IWATA is a decent brand. It's amazing what you can do with airbrushing as opposed to rattle cans. ALSO note that the createx paint is good for lexan. It's flexible and won't chip. You may need 5 or more coats if you're going for a good covering.

You really get what you pay for on what rig you go with. You want a nice easy to clean gun, a good solid compressor, so you maximize your time painting and not pissing around cleaning, changing psi's, spattering, needle centering, spray patterns. Try not to cheap out on it. You won't be sorry. I also built an indoor spray booth for <$100. But that's for another post.

Here and Here is first body I did freehand. I use liquid mask by the gallon....

GOOD LUCK!

Airbrush Booth - You really shouldn't breath in the fumes. If you are painting indoors, you should use something like this to capture and filter the overspray/fumes. This is in addition to wearing a mask. You will see people in youtube tutorials not wearing masks and not using a booth - it's really bad practice if you care about your brain cells. I like the one below, but the fan is louder than the compressor.

80$ on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush®-Portable-Airbrush-Painting/dp/B00BMUH8L6?ie=UTF8&ref_=pe_385040_128020140_TE_3p_dp_1

$20- Paint mask/respirator - See notes above. I use one designed for spray painting.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-07192-Paint-Spray-Medium/dp/B0002STR22/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469825823&sr=8-1&keywords=Spray+paint+mask

Airbrush - I recommend starting cheap until you get a hang of it. It's easy to damage parts. It's been a while since I've researched, so I apologize for having forgotten the terms. You want an airbrush that is fed from a cup on top (gravity fed?), a trigger to control the air separately from the paint (maybe called dual action?), and needles .2 to .5mm. This airbrush came with a quick connect (to snap on and off of the compressor hose), which is a big convenience. They are cheap if you need to buy separately.
$30 https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Precision-Airbrush-Valve-Crenelated/dp/B004KNDQMM?ie=UTF8&ref_=pe_385040_128020140_TE_3p_dp_1

$10Airbrush cleaner fluid and brushes - to flush the airbrush and clean it after use.

$10- Airbrush cleaning pot - You spray cleaner and excess paint into this.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005H46T0O/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

90$ - Compressor with Tank - The separate tank is key, it will maintain constant pressure very well and provide good steady flow. This one is pretty quiet as compressors go, but still noisy enough that you need to work behind a closed door.
https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Portable-Airbrush-Compressor-Oil-less/dp/B004KNDQCM?ie=UTF8&ref_=pe_385040_128020140_TE_3p_dp_2

$10 - Airbrush hose- https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Airbrush-Braided-Air-Hose/dp/B004KNAH7E?ie=UTF8&ref_=pe_385040_128020140_TE_3p_dp_5

All in, it cost me $250 before paint.

I recently bought a setup about a month ago so if you are in the US, I'd recommend the following:

• 1/5 hp Portable Airbrush Compressor with Tank $89.99
  
• 10'ft braided airbrush hose, 1/8" bsp aka Iwata $5.99
  
• Point Zero Dual Action Gravity Feed Airbrush with 0.2, 0.3, 0.5mm nozzle-needle sets and 1/8" bsp quick disconnect $23.99
  
• 20% discount for buying over $100 from this Amazon vendor
  
• Safety is very important! Portable Spray Booth $79.99 w/ Prime, not eligible for above discounts
  
• Comes out to about $175.96 before tax.
  
  I have the compressor, the hose, and the booth and they've worked great for me so far. Honestly, you save on shipping vs. the Master Brand and mine came preassembled with the regulator installed. The Master Brand ones are notorious for having regulators that you screw in and they end up tilted to the side. In fact I think people in this sub have pointed this flaw out (there's a better link with pictures, I just can't find it). Items were shipped promptly and got here in one piece. You also get the discounts if you buy a certain amount from them.
  
  I actually have an Iwata NEO that I got from Amazon for about $40ish. I'm still on the fence as to whether or not I like airbrushing or not. Honestly, I wish I had gotten the PointZero brush just as a cheap intro dual-action brush.
  
  I think someone on this subreddit once pointed out that an airbrush is like a regular brush, just powered by air. They weren't kidding. It takes time to master. If you have the money to spend on a fancy >$100 airbrush like the Krome, then less of your time will be spent trying to master the idiosyncrasies of your brush. But it doesn't change the fact that it takes practice to be able to lay down really smooth, thin coats consistently.
  
  I don't know how busy you are as a student, but it can be time consuming to set everything up, test your spray conditions, mix your paints, actually paint, and then clean everything up. If you find you like the process, then you can invest in a better brush in the future and keep your old one for laying down primer or base coating.
  
  But there's nothing wrong with OOB snap builds if you find that's your thing.
  
  edit: for link formatting mistakes, and also to say that I'm not very experienced yet, so take my advice with a grain of salt.
  
  edit 2: My other regret is not considering compressed CO2. I live near a welding supply shop and a restaurant supply shop that both sell compressed CO2 cylinders. A 10 lb tank with high pressure regulator would have been around $120 and then some for converters or extra regulators. People on the fine scale forums claim that a 10 lb tank could last months for airbrushing and it's only $17 to refill at either shop. Would have been perfect too for carbonating beverages for homebrew purposes. Just another option to consider. Definitely do not buy the Badger compressed air cans. They don't last long enough.

My recommended buying list for a new painter is:

Tools

• Nippers
  
• Hobby Knife
  
• Thinning Medium
  
• Glue
  
• Glue Accelerant
  
• Brush Cleaner
  
• Palette
  
  Sprays
  
  
• Primer
  ○ Grey is standard, white if you're painting a majority of light colors, and black if the majority is dark.
  
• Matte Varnish
  
  Brushes
  
  
• Brushes
  ○ Round 0
  ○ Round 1
  ○ Round 2
  
  
  All in all it should be around $60 USD for the tools and about $40 USD for the brushes. However, this list gives you every tool you will need to get started and to continue with the hobby. Nt all of this is required, but it is nice to have.
  
  This is just what I like to have on hand, this does not reflect the "perfect list". I hope it helps :)

Well I am by no means an expert but here is what I got:

Paasche Talon TG-3f - It does the job. I am not painting eyes with it, mostly priming, and wide cloak and base colors.

I too had a compressor but needed to grab a Water Trap the compressor I have is super load and not 'made' for airbrushing 'per se'. So I need to regulate the water in the paint.

Then get a bottle of Air Brush Thinner. You can then use any paint you want through it (make it much thinner than normal skim milk painting consistency).

I did pick up some airbrush paints to practice with on cardboard and canvas ... figured the more I use it the better I will get. My intent is to use Vallejo Black/White primer through it. Save me from having to use so many cans of spray paint.

edit Also should mention a couple videos that influenced me/I am using to learn from: Tons of airbrushing stuff later in the video of this BIG resin kit, Tested beginners guide, more resin kit with an airbrush, and just for giggles how to clean it which in my humble opinion is the largest deterrent of the process.

I like it! It has a few anatomy specific things though. You may want to spend more time looking at Jack's hands throughout the show. The show has a very simple-shape-y style and the hands are much easier than in other shows. Additionally, Jack looks thin but not small in the show because he has broad shoulders and a narrow waist. Your image seems to have his shoulders broad, but the pauldrons make it harder to see and he looks a bit disjointed, plus his waist is pretty wide. If you're going to be doing lots of art of people in the future, you may want to pick up something like this since human proportions are hard to draw on the best of days. One last thing, the feet are very small. They should be about as long as his forearms.

With all that out of the way, this is a very solid start, especially considering how hard it is to draw humans. Keep at it! You could end up a really great vector artist!

First advice with new painters is always thin your paints. A more accurate advice is to thin your paint when you want to do just about anything other than dry brush.

The follow up question is often "how thin?" The answer for this depends on what you want to do. If you're doing a basic wet blend or base coat, something like melted ice cream will suffice. If you're doing more detailed work, or more fine blending, something like skim milk will work better.

The better question is "why?" You're often told that wet paint flows better, and therefore won't leave brush marks, but there's an additional thing that's occasionally mentioned as a drawback of acrylic paints; they're semi transparent.

This is abused in several painting techniques, two of which I'll describe below.

The first is layering, which the simplest version is what I described in my previous post. If your paint is thin enough, some of the layer underneath will show through. For this, you'll want to be closer to skim milk than melted ice cream. You can then build up layers (therefore "many thin layers", or "layering") with each successive layer covering less and less, but also with each layer providing more coverage.

The second, and more advanced technique is called feathering or void blending, and is really just a more advanced form of layering. When you put down a layer, very quickly clean and dry your bush to where it's moist. Then, use your brush as a sponge to make the edges of the layer you just did more faint. the trick with this, is you have to be fast. Acrylic paint dries quickly, and unless you're using an acrylic drying retarder, thinning your paint makes the paint dry even faster.

As an aside, often times, some old school painters are called "brush likers" because they'll use a variant of this called spit blending, where they clean the brush with their mouth, using their spit to keep the brush moist.

For more on this topic, see this video by Miniac, and for more on the general topic of blending see this video by Vince Venturella

I'm uh, I'm really concerned that "customers that viewed this item also viewed" something called the "Fat Old Fred" after I clicked on that 55 gallon drum of "Passion Lubes" Natural Water-Based Lubricant. The horror that is Fat Old Fred, with his gaping hole of a mouth above his "Bob... Bob had bitch-tits" bitch-tits, just staring back at me with his permanently closed eyes and what appear to be his removable nose and mouth area.

• I don't know if this is somehow Amazon's algorithm tying my Paramedic purchases together, and they think I'd want to buy 55 gallons of lube with what I'm hoping is a CPR/intubation dummy (and totally not a cock-holster with lube4lyfe)... or if this is the result of Trump's measure to allow ISP's to sell your personal info without consent? Either way, they got it wrong because I don't have that kind of money right now.
  
  
  I just know I'm worried about the kind of search suggestions I'm gonna get in the future. Also, in grand Amazon fashion, the most helpful two reviews for the "Fat Old Fred" are here:
  
  > "The handy carrying case is also quite useful for carrying other dismembered obese human torsos.
  
  > Just in case you were curious."
  
  And..
  
  > "I'm really happy with my Fat Old Fred, Black. Though if I'm being up-front, I have to deduct 1 star for it not being quite black. It's actually closer to the color of wet terra cotta. Anyway, I was thrilled upon the arrival of my Fat Old Fred, Black, and immediately began to explore the various uses for a silicon sculpt of a kind-of-old-looking obese torso. My first idea was to cover him in paint and use a trebuchet to launch him at a giant canvas (after all, we all know art is really a process not a product amirite?) but I achieved unsatisfactory results as I seemed to only get face+tits+belly prints. After an hour or so the wall of my warehouse loft wound up looking like a giant had dipped their balls in paint and slapped them all over my wall. Not a good look, unfortunately.
  
  > My backup plan was to pimp him out to the crackheads who have an encampment in the storm drain under my warehouse, and so far I'm happy to say I've already recouped my costs in crack rocks and crusty dollar bills. A-, 8/10 would buy again."
  
  http://i.imgur.com/cT9xoIl.jpg

I don't know if they're the cheapest but I buy most of my paints from Miniature Market. Vallejo paints are $2.89 and shipping is usually $6 if your order is less than $99 (otherwise it's free). They have a pretty wide selection so you can pick and choose whatever you'd like. Reaper and Army Painter are a little cheaper per pot. Going this route might end up slightly (like a few dollars) more expensive than buying a bundle with Prime shipping, but you'll only get paints that you actually wanted. IF you're like me and end up buying a bunch, keep a spreadsheet to track which colors you already have. I've ended up with a few duplicates before I started tracking things better. Plus, you can pick up some inks, which if you follow someone like Sorastro (who will eventually be doing a Kingdom Death series), play a big role.

I'd also recommend you get a can of Army Painter Quickshade. The can isn't too big but it will last a long, long, time.

Heres a link to the airbrush kit I started with. I got good results with the 2 gravity feed brushes it comes with. Im still using the air compressor with the Iwata brush I upgraded to:

https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Airbrush-Dual-Action-Guns/dp/B010TQCOEE/ref=sr_1_6?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1517488015&sr=1-6&keywords=airbrush+kit

Personally, I like Tamiya branded supplies. Their kits have great details and Ill also use their masking tape, primer, and paints. I like acrylic paint in general since its easy to clean i.e. wash everything out in the kitchen sink with water.

For clear coating, Ive used testors dullcote and glosscote and had good results over Tamiya paint except for when I spray too much at once with the rattle can. For that reason Im thinking of switching to Mr. Color super clear so I can use it with my airbrush and have more control and a finer mist.

I use Microset & Microsol with my decals

Vallejo acrylic putty is easy to use. Model Master cement (for thicker more viscous applications) and Tamiya extra thin cement for the fine detail work. Tamiya line accent color (black or brown) for my panel lining. I wipe it off with testors enamel thinner.

For weathering pigments, MIG products work well or you can DIY by scraping artist pastels and using the dust created.

Finally, most of my small tools (knife, chisel/scraper, tweezers) are branded "excel". I think that is just the brand my local hobby store happens to sell.

There are of course many more options for materials/supplies that work great for modelling but this is just a sampling of the brands that I use on my kits.

First some basics:

for miniature painting we use acrylic colours and there are a lot of different brands available some are more famous among miniatures and scale models (because they have specific colours available, like the one you linked is a palette fur US WW2 military colours) some are more often used by artists and all of them have their advantages. The same with brushes and in the end it is more about personal preference and availability (makes no sense to buy the brand people say it is good but you have to order it while something of equal quality is available in the store around the corner and for a beginner a more basic set with ~10 basic colours is better than such a specific one)

For the brushes you want something similar to this https://www.amazon.com/Detailing-Watercolor-Miniature-Ergonomic-Precision/dp/B004HHIO50/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=army+painter+brushes&qid=1550092128&s=gateway&sr=8-10

in addition to the one you linked because you need more straight/fine detail ones and some larger one depending on the techniques used (dry brushing for example)

​

The only thing that I really recommend is to use a caned spray primer as colours won't stick very well to the pure plastic surface and you already have a basecoat if you use a coloured one. But it need to be a Primer and not a spray colour. I prefer Army Painter but mostly because of the colours available

Another thin would be Washes which are kind of thinner colours that add a translucent layer to the model or are used for blacklining

https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Warpaints-Quickshade-Wash/dp/B0714QL55V/

(I also prefer Army Painter over Vallejo here, but the link is more for the example pictures)

​

For a beginner, a coloured Primer and a Wash can already give good (and fast) results on models like Stormtroopers

​

The Master airbrush kit with a compressor is probably the entry level kit you'd want. The compressor with that kit is also known as the AS-186 compressor, and is quite a capable compressor.

The airbrush is probably nothing fancy, but a basic cheap airbrush is a good starter since you can learn how they work, how to maintain them, and most importantly not give a damn the first time you bend a needle.

Once you've got some practice under your belt, move up to a reputable artists airbrush since they are better made. You won't actually see much of a difference in the quality of the spray in a cheap airbrush to an expensive one, expensive ones typically have more options in components and are easier to source replacement parts for.

I moved up from a no-name ebay airbrush to an Iwata, and immediately bought the parts to change the Iwata airbrush to a 0.5mm needle instead of its stock 0.3mm.

If you're planning on doing more minis, don't mind spending a few bucks, and really want a quick easy way to shade for tabletop without having to mix your own washes, Army Painter's Strong Tone Quick Shade is awesome.

Put on with a brush, soak up some of the extra that drips onto the base, enjoy your awesome-looking, shaded mini. :)

Looks awesome. It looks like you got some of the rivets, but a nice little tool I've recently found is this little pen. It's been super helpful and really makes the small details pop.

To get the effect I mixed my white and blue 1:1 with THIS. Then painted it very thickly with white and dabbed blue dots into the white. Then with a ton of water I swirled as best I could, letting the pooling water do as much of the work as I could. I kind of made it up as I went...that youtube video looks like it might get overall better effects--I'm also not sure you need to use paint retarder, though it did keep it pretty thick so it didn't all just blend together. Definitely something I'd like to work with more!

Disclaimer: In this video I'm lubing a linear switch but if you're lubing a tactile switch, you might want to skip lubing the legs of the stem and the leaf bumps, because this decreases the tactility of the switch.

This video shows what I do when I lubricate keyboard switches with grease and a paintbrush. This video can even help someone who doesn't know anything about lubing keyboard switches and just wants to see what it involves and how they could get started.

​

I will go slowly in the video, trying to be sure you can see what I'm doing.

​

My choices of where to apply lube are based on experience and on the results of an experiment I did and documented here:

https://imgur.com/gallery/hijSYcp

​

I wanted to show 2 different ways to open the switch, using a special opener tool or using regular tweezers. Both methods work fine.

​

The grease I typically use for this method is Tribosys 3204, which you can purchase from keyboard vendors such as switchmod.net, novelkeys.xyz, 1upkeyboards.com, etc. Other greases I like to use are Krytox 205g0 and Christo Lube MCG 129.

​

Tools:

Painbrush: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V4EG6D6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Tweezers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPFQHM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

4 Prong Pick-Up Tool: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RB3KZ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Switch Opener tool: https://kiiboss.studio/products/kiiopener_mx.html

​

In case you are opening Halo switches or BOX switches: https://kiiboss.studio/products/kiiopener_kailh.html

​

Acrylic switch holder / modding station: https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=525320012520

​

Or https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Keyboard-Axis-Board-for-Machanical-Keyboard-Black-Axis-Blue-Brown-Red-Gray-Green-White-Axis-Acrylic/32802439596.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.37e34c4dgCIZli

​

A 3d printed option: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3294929

The problem with that kind of compressors are that they don't give out a stable amount of air. That means it may start spitting paint instead of giving a nice constant flow of air/paint.
You're going to get all sorts of opinions. Ones will say they work well, some others (like me), would recommend something with an air tank.
https://www.amazon.com/Zeny-Airbrush-Compressor-Regulator-Filter/dp/B01M33C8MV/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482100140&sr=8-2&keywords=airbrush+compressor+with+tank

Something like that will do the work, it will last you very long if treated correctly and in the long run will save you some money. If you buy the cheap one, even if you only use it for priming and base coating, you will want to get a better one very soon.

In the end, the choice is yours, of course :)

The big issue with that compressor is that it is tankless so it is unlikely to give a good consistent flow of air. If you can I would save up a bit extra and get a compressor with a tank like this one. While it is a bit bigger it isn't that big being about the size of two 2-liter bottles staked on their side and is pretty easy to store.

I personally purchased a version of this kit a couple years back and while I have moved on to a better airbrush, I still use that same compressor.

If you are in the US I would recommend the badger airbrushs I have had great luck with mine.

I think the one I have is:

https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-R1V-Renegade-Velocity/dp/B0013NBQLA/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1526884557&sr=8-13&keywords=Badger+airbrush

Get a gravity feed airbrush, they require lower psi to work and are just easier.


For a compressor get one with a tank it will give a nice consistent air flow. Something like this is a decent starter compressor:


https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-HP-Airbrush-Compressor-Portable/dp/B004KNDQCM/ref=sr_1_12_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1526884681&sr=8-12-spons&keywords=Badger+airbrush&psc=1

I'm partial to using Liquitex Airbrush Medium to thin acrylics - http://amzn.to/Ui4x1T. You can use water or alcohol or other thinners, but I actually have a much easier time with the medium. I'm pretty sure that it's because you're getting a better distribution of pigment particles. Also, with thinners it's possible to overthin to the point where the paint just doesn't want to do anything but bead on the surface. It's nearly impossible to do that with medium.

Just my 2 cents.

IWATA NEO CN airbrush and AS-186 compressor.

For a total of 140$ as the time of writing this (on 5.8.2019.) it is the best cheap airbrush and compressor combo.

Why? You get the whole package - Airbrush, a compressor with a tank, air filter and a hose which is all you need to start airbrushing


Iwata Neo is considered the best cheap(est) branded airbrush on the market by many so I used it here, also the AS-186 compressor (Check later in the page about it more) is p good. You also get a hose which far too many people forget to buy when choosing a compressor.


mostly everything


-----


Note for other users - I am currently rewriting the airbrush page a bit (this will be on the top of the page), so if you have any wishes to add to it please comment.

From my own experience with Gundam markers, they usually dry in a few minutes, but I only use them for small detail painting. They do not need primer, but a topcoat will help protect them as they can get scratched fairly easily. The Basic and Metallic sets are both very useful, along with the three panel lining markers.

A decent sketch pad is just better than any notebook or printer paper you probably have lying around.
My favorite pens are these
This particular pack of 4 has different tip sizes. I can use all 4 of them on one good piece. Not use them up, just use each one of them.

If you want to up your game, you can use any kind of graphite pencil (even a regular #2) and some tortillons for shading. It took me a while to brave shading but it was a game changer when I took the leap.

I just pinterest for "Zentangle Patterns" and stick them all on a board and go for it. You'll build off of them and use borders. Where you find empty space, you can just search your board for something that compliments or contrasts and fits your space.

I'm real proud of the ones I've done and get a lot of compliments. I guess it means a lot because I literally can't draw a car or a dog.

Save your money. You need $20 more for a decent starter brush here, I wouldn’t buy one of these, I had one, made one model and sold it. In honesty I’d save up, double your money and buy either a kit like this compressor with tank with brush, or preferably just the compressor for $70 and a decent airbrush like the Iwata neo for $60.

A compressor with a tank means the compressor doesn’t run all the time so prolongs the compressor life itself. It has a decent water trap and regulator to adjust pressure.

A Neo is a superb brush for the money, cheap Chinese airbrushes have less accuracy, require deeper cleaner and can give a frustrating experience.

It’s often worth spending once and spending right in this field. Hence I suggest saving your money.

Thinning your paint will help! I use a drying retarder to extend workability of the paint on a model.

https://www.amazon.com/Liquitex-Professional-Slow-Dri-Retarder-Effects/dp/B004M559I2/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1500388700&sr=1-1&keywords=paint+retarder

Also! Try using Shades! They'll really bring out the recesses of the models! If you're not comfortable with them, you can also try something like a dip! Very easy to do models quickly! (Thin it a bit with a mineral spirit, though.)

https://www.amazon.com/The-Army-Painter-Strong-Quick/dp/B004UVVTXM/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1500388817&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=quick+shade+army

Cheers!

> I mean, why else is there "20 pounds of ass" sitting on one of our shelves, next to a torso.

https://www.amazon.com/Fuck-Silly-Bubble-Butt-RD173/dp/B01CGZJGT2?th=1

It doesn't quite look realistic anyway, even with the skin colour...

but then I guess it would look even less realistic without the skin tone?

Also, completely unrelated, but equally hilarious :

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004JOB9Z8/

Great review :

>The handy carrying case is also quite useful for carrying other dismembered obese human torsos.

I am very amateur, but I highly recommend Strong Tone Quickshade, that stuff is amazing and was the easiest part of the process. This is how they came out.

I used these bottles

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00BQID78C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Expensive but best I’ve found

These funnels

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B071CFKPRD/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This flow aid

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000KNPM46/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These mixing balls

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F253780474878


Process

I added a mixing ball to the bottle, added 5 drops of flow aid into the citadel paint pot and shook

Tipped the paint into the bottle via the funnel.

Added another 5 drops to the citadel pot and again shook it.

Tipped the remaining paint to the bottle via the funnel

Advantage of this method, is that your paints get slightly thinned down


Just noticed funnels not available so these might work as well
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Alohha-Stainless-Funnel-Essential-Bottles/dp/B01N6J3STP/ref=sr_1_30?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1536002027&sr=1-30&keywords=Funnels

I got this bundle of compressor and iwata HP-CS from amazon for just a bit over 300.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001BO4X8Y?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title

I've used it for priming, base coating and highlights for my tzeentch horrors so far and it's running fantastic at 20-25 psi.

I haven't used the paints it comes with but the cleaning pot, stir sticks and medicine cups for mixing the paint is a great added bonus!

Thanks for the input everyone, I think I'm going to go with the iwata hp-cs once I get the money. I found this bundle on amazon which comes with the iwata and compressor and seems like a pretty good deal. Thoughts?

Reaper has a couple of great starter kits to get you started that not only contain paints, brushes, and some minis to practice on, they come with an instructional booklet packed in a handy case. They're honestly a great starting point and their paints are just as good as Vallejo or Citadel.

https://www.reapermini.com/paints#LearnToPaintKits

Army Painter and Vallejo also sell basic color sets that are just fine to start with. Search on Amazon and pick one you can afford - or check out your FLGS.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0714QL55V/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_VccMDbHF0F90Y

If you need to buy brushes b/c you didn't get a reaper kit, 1-2 cheap sets of miniature detail brushes will be fine. You will ruin your first brushes, but nontheless look up brush care and when you've progressed you can decide if you want fancy brushes.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CJ7MBD1/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_iacMDbMBJJPAK
Get yourself some brush soap too:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027AEANE/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_0bcMDb4S2QDPN

You don't need a million paints to start. All the primary colors (you know: red, blue, yellow, white, black, etc.) will let you mix your own colors to start. Just go slow and thin your paint with droplets of water.

> I saw on BGG about wash painting them. How hard is that?

Pretty easy. Buy a wash, slather it all over your minis, let them dry for a day or two, done. If you're totally inexperienced with painting, your best bet for this is probably Army Painter Quick Shade. You just dip the minis in the pot and that's it. Make sure you check out examples of the results before you commit to the quick shade variant over the traditional brush on wash.

> Also, if I do that then decided later to try and actually paint them will I be able to over the wash?

Yes, definitely. Washes are designed for you to be able to paint over them. You can either paint over it directly, or I'd recommend stripping them with simple green and giving them a base coat from a rattle can spray primer. You may even want to do this before you wash them in the first place but it's not absolutely necessary.

I've recently gotten into painting Japanese watercolor postcards on etegami paper. Etegami painting is supposed to be a relaxing experience where clumsy is good. Plus, as postcards they're fun to mail to friends and family.

https://www.jetpens.com/Akashiya-Etegami-Postcard-Size-Paper-Gasen-Paper-Pack-of-10-Sheets/pd/4720

(You can get the size you need)
https://www.amazon.com/Kuretake-Picture-Letter-MC20-36V/dp/B001MPA6W4/

Army painter washes are some of the best in the market for sure. With the smattering of brushes.. Is it a bunch of random brushes? You could get her a set of nice brushes as well or even a paint collection set which Army painter also has and it contains some washes as well

For the Model Color, use the Thinner Medium. You just need 1 or 2 drops of this thinner for a drop of Model Color. Too much will make your paint have a watery/runny consistency.

On the other hand, use the Airbrush Thinner for the Model Air. It works best with a Retarder Medium. Vallejo's air brush thinner is quite tricky to use though. You have to get the right paint to thinner ratio that will work best with your air brush. Try out different combinations on an old kit or a plastic sheet before painting your models.

EDIT: There's also an air brush flow improver from Vallejo.

Someone posted a great set of videos by a guy who is a real "no-nonsense" airbrusher. His thought is that you use lacquer thinner (basic cheap stuff from a hardware store) to clean EVERYTHING. Even acrylics. Going with that approach I don't think it really matters.

I mostly spray acrylics and the Allclad stuff (which is Lacquer), but have used some enamels without any issues. Just thin it with actual proper thinner, and don't waste the good thinner on cleaning the thing.

Not sure about the Paasche, but the Iwata's are similar quality wise I think, and they all have seals that can handle any of the solvents, so the brush itself won't have an issue with any of the paints.

With any "kit" I think you are making tradeoffs. I would spend the money on a good brush, double action (whatever your preference for brand). I have found the .3mm needle size (some are .35) to be the most versatile. Iwata HP-C can be had for $150 or so. I am sure Paasche has a similar one.

For compressor I have been very happy with this one which was pretty inexpensive:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004KNDQCM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am sure you can get a better one, and with any of these "knock-offs" there are some risks as quality control may not be as consistent with the brand name ones. Compressor will have a much smaller impact on your quality of life than the airbrush itself. If you eventually got tired of the lower volume tank and too much running, or wanted something fancier or quieter, or if it ends up crapping out after a coulle of years you can trade up. As long as it holds pressure, and has a reasonable regulator and water trap, the compressor itself won't give you any problems until it dies. A cheap airbrush, on the other hande, will be miserable and frustrating every time you use it. Or worse, will be fine up until the point that it spits out a gob of stuff in the middle of an almost perfect paint job (speaking for a friend of course ;-) )

For the major borders I used a Medium .7mm and for the stairs and fine details, as well as the crosshatched border a Small .3mm

I use Faber-Castell artist pens. Go through them fairly fast but they give me awesome lines. I just wish the Medium .7mm was actually a .8mm hhahaaha

Here is a link: http://www.amazon.com/Pitt-Artist-Pens-Wallet-Styles/dp/B000TKEZDO

I have this compressor, which I got as part of this kit. I'm only a beginner with the airbrush, but I highly recommend both. The compressor delivers a steady stream of air and doesn't heat up or make serious noise. I can easily use it at night without disturbing anybody even across the hall in my house.

Like OneWhoGeneralises said, GW's paints need to be thinned a lot. They're very thick for an airbrush to begin with, and tend to clot up even more as they dry out over time. I had a lot of trouble at first using mine without clogging up the airbrush. i can do it now, but mostly use Vallejo Air. I also found that Jay Adan video really helpful.

So this:

https://smile.amazon.com/Citadel-Shade-Paint-Games-Workshop/dp/B00KOD3FM8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1519681521&sr=8-4&keywords=paint+wash

or this?:

https://smile.amazon.com/Nontoxic-Miniature-Washes-Dropper-Bottles/dp/B0714QL55V/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1519681988&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=army+painter+wash&psc=1

For primer is there a benefit to using paint on, vs spray? I think the bases will be separate from my pieces. So I would think a spray can of like, white, grey, and black would be my best bet?

You're fine using brush on primers. I used some Vallejo primer after seeing your brush on post and liked it as well. On the topic of paint drying on the tip, Vallejo (and many others) have a product called acrylic retarder which specifically is made to extend drying time. People mainly use it to do wet blending. But it could help you as well. You'll want to start very small (like 20:1 or 10:1 water:retarding agent) and test it out to see how much is needed.

An example of what I'm referring to.

Vallejo Acrylic Paint, Retarder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PH9JP0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3f3GzbXDFMQM7

Nice! If you'd like to take it further you should get him a mannequin. He can pose it and even though his style is very animated atm, it will help get him a good sense of proportions!

Ok, that's alot to comment on:

- For airbrushing, you actually want to dilute the paint with a thinner rather than just water (random example not an advertisement: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vallejo-Model-Air-200-Thinners/dp/B002X6DTHK/ref=asc_df_B002X6DTHK/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309862953042&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7411493572982788503&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006595&hvtargid=pla-434590355698&psc=1&th=1&psc=1 ) as they change the properties of the paint in slightly different ways (you'll end up with more pooling and a less smooth coat with water). For brush painting, using water to dilute is fine.

The standard response on how much to thin is to get "the consistency of milk", which is always a bit of an odd way of looking at it. It'll also come down to how much pressure you're using (psi) and how far away your airbrush is, it's sort of a triangle of effects. I generally dilute with 1 part thinner to 2 part paint, bit I'm no expert.

- If you want to use green as your main colour go for it (I'm slightly biased, green is my favourite colour). Use a contrasting colour (such as the suggested grey) to pick out certain panels to give the models a bit of interest.

- Unless you have issues with close-up seeing I wouldn't say you need a magnifying glass. The croc clips are occasionally useful but be careful they don't leave dents in the model (i.e. clip to a less important bit or use a layer of padding).

Take your time when cleaning mold lines (especially when using a knife!!) - they're super annoying to find after you've already started.

- Another thing I'll mention is primer - the initial coat of paint on a model is recommended to be this as it has a slightly different chemical properties to stick to the model and provide a smooth surface for other paints.

I found a kit on amazon for around 80 bucks. It came with a compressor and three types of airbrushes.
PointZero Airbrush Dual Action Airbrush Kit with 3 Guns https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010TQCOEE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_8mMivZb67PArw
It's not top quality, but I've been happy with it, and it comes with a DVD that has tons of useful info for a beginner on it.

I currently use kuretake watercolors with these brush pens and I think they’re pretty solid. It’s not a huge investment and I think they’re a good starter pack for casual water colorists.

I highly also recommend clipping your pages and having maybe a hair dryer handy so your pages don’t warp from getting too wet.

Fine tipped paint pen is your best option. The paint is pretty resilient so will show well into grinding.

>Hey guys noob here trying to get into the hobby. I've just been adding up some prices and it's getting ridiculous... am I doing something wrong or is this the entry fee we're talking about? Here is my math.
>
>TOTAL
>$29 - Chaos Black Spray
>$11 - Agrax Earthshade
>$6 - Lamenters Yellow
>$6 - Flash Gitz Yellow
>$6 - Yriel Yellow
>$6 - Ardcoat
>$11 - Agrellan Earth (x3)
>SUBTOTAL $97
>
>$6 - Kantor Blue
>$11 - Coelia Greenshade
>$6 - Lothern Blue
>$6 - Sotek Green
>$6 - Temple Guard Blue
>$6 - Ushabti Bone
>$6 - Screaming Skull
>$6 - Balthasar Gold
>$6 - Gehenna's Gold
>$6 - Khorne Red
>$11 - Carroburg Crimson
>$6 - Wazdakka Red
>SUBTOTAL $82
>
>Paints $179
>Start Collecting! Seraphon $140
>Essential Citadel Brush Selection $87
>Mouldline Remover $19
>TOTAL: $425
>
>^ This paint is for bases and Saurus Warriors only, haven't even calculated the cost of paints for the Cold One Knights and the Carnosaur yet because it was already getting out of control and this is supposed to be my intro into the hobby...

It hurts my pocket book to see people pay $11 for black primer and clear coat when you can buy the same quality of spray for ~$3-4 each.

And $6 for single colors is ridiculous. But then I don't use GW paints. I prefer army painter shade washes, and Vallejo model color or game color for regular colors. I use Rustoleum black, grey, and white primer and always have great experiences with it as long as you follow the use instructions (like don't spray when too hot or too cold or rainy). And I thought my Testors Dull clear coat was expensive at ~$8.

[Vallejo basic model color] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009162PWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7xLcAbSVVT1V1) 16 basic colors for $42, which is a ton better than $6 per color.

Army Painter Quickshades 11 washes for $27.50

And if you like army painter paints which they are great paints there is the starter set: Mega Paint Set by Army Painter 50 paints includingbasic colors, shade washes, and a few metallics for $90.

Don't buy into GW's propaganda, their regular paints aren't any better than other common brands like Army Painter and Vallejo, and they are a fraction of the price, usually about half the cost.

Personally I used to use exclusively GW paints and wish someone would have told me this stuff early, I would have saved a lot of money. When I started using other products I realized I didn't even like the GW method for most things. Base paints are too thick, and layer paints are the exact same as army painter or model color paints. Then you get things like acrylic medium, airbrush medium, and glaze medium which you can buy in big bottles from other companies, like Golden, which is the same gunk that GW sells for $6 per pot that you can buy from Liquitex or Golden 8 oz bottlrs for ~$10-$15.

If you're worried about getting studio colors without using GW paints then the community has you covered with the paint conversion chart.

Save yourself some money if you're worried about cost and don't overpay for GW materials when it's the same stuff across the board.

light underneath, something wide like this. This is just the first one I found in a quick and dirty search, you can probably find cheaper. Other people have had success with a white towel in their lap with good lighting from above the work. Try the towel first of course, it's the cheapest. :)

Yeah, you can get away with even putting these in the wash. You can wrap them in a tied pillow case or preferably a mesh bag made for washing sneakers. Put the cycle on normal and put in a tide pod. Make sure to remove laces and inner sole (although I've left the sole in on accident with no issues). Don't put them in the dryer.

This should clean the fabric quite easily and most of the boost as well. These oil based paint markers do the trick. You can even fix some imperfections on the plastic part of the cage too if you're careful.

Great idea. I literally got my first set of bumpers today and they're all black Diamond Pros. I may give this a shot. When you said oil based paint pens, would those be something like these?
https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Oil-Based-Markers-Assorted-Colors/dp/B000GOYAPQ/

Thanks! I use some paint pens! GSI Creos Gundam Marker Basic Set (6 Markers) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009AFN0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9qmsDbBKTQP2B

Those are the ones I use. Take some getting used to. So practice on some junk castings first 😆😂

lol I think the same thing every time I see those. It looks like someone ctrl-v'd a generic anime face on the head without bothering to resize it proportionally.

Faber-Castell makes really nice pens though. I use this set.

Cool, thanks for the reply. When I do chrome work I just used a silver sharpie but your work looks much, much nicer.

Edit: Found it on Amazon for those others that may be interested

I have a Master setup (mine came with different needles though,) and the brush is certainly decent for a beginner. However, I would recommend a combo with a compressor that has a tank (like this: http://amzn.to/2sTb0WB). Tanks help regulate the pressure and won't constantly run, like a tankless setup.

As for cleaning, like Jacers said, water is usually enough. You may want to pick up some airbrush cleaner to run through after a session, just to be thorough.

It sounds pretty easy, was it? Has the paint held up?

Were these the pens?

Sharpie 37371PP Oil-Based Paint Markers, Fine Point, Assorted Colors, 1 Blister Pack with 5 Markers, Total of 5 Markers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GOYAPQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hyZBCb8WHEC48

This one and the one that comes with the air tank are on my amazon wishlist and I'm watching a ton of videos to make sure it will be a good fit for me.

Airtank airbrush

Some folks just tip the handle of the brush and use it to transfer (personally I think that's a bit of a mess but could work in a pinch). You could probably use toothpicks or cotton swabs just as well as you just need something...

You could use a good brush but you need to be careful to avoid getting paint in the ferrule as that can damage the brush and it ultimately probably isn't worth it when there's cheaper / safer options.

I'd say grab a few cheap brushes and sacrifice them to the paint pot gods. They're really helpful for basing (applying PVA glue), transferring paint to pallets, whatever.

Don't sacrifice a more expensive nylon or sable brush as you should be able to get a bunch of cheap nylon brushes for $5 or so:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V4EG6D6/ref=sxts_kp_bs_tr_lp_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=8778bc68-27e7-403f-8460-de48b6e788fb&pd_rd_wg=sg8RE&pf_rd_r=9305E087JXWVP7GH3QN6&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00V4EG6D6&pd_rd_w=LaPb9&pf_rd_i=brushes&pd_rd_r=630f9240-898b-4d16-8b7a-8d86041a5674&ie=UTF8&qid=1538679271&sr=1

I use an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS (the gravity feed one, and not the CN knockoff) and it works pretty good. My nozzle clogs up every now and again if I've got my thinning slightly off but otherwise, no major problems yet. I ended up picking up the compressor that was discussed here on the wiki and it works pretty well so far, and it's quiet enough that you can't hear it in the room next door. I live in a townhouse so that was really important for me. As with anything though, see what works for you and read reviews. This Amazon link is the exact one that I bought (and according to honey, its about 30% now than it was a month ago, so good time to buy lol).

Of course :D

Inks are basically pigmented water, so they flow better then layer paint, while not pooling as much as washes. They're used in glazing, as you mentionned.
Glazing is a more advanced technique which is used to get really smooth transitions between colors. There was a post a while ago that really showcased what glazing does (see here). It's a very time consuming process, where you take a range of colors and go back and forth applying this layers of it to blend and smooth your colors.
If you want to get into glazing, then you'll need to buy some retarder medium. It's a type of liquid that will slow down the drying process of your paint so you can take your time and mix it up on the model while it's wet to get those smooth blends. Someting like this should work. You add a tiny bit of it to your paint as your apply it.

Thanks. I used a paint pen (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GOYAPQ/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1406745010&sr=1&keywords=paint+pen) and it worked pretty well.

You don't need airbrush cleaner, but it's cheap, lasts forever, and you'll want to have it around. You won't just use it to clean your airbrush, but anything you spill paint on, including yourself. It cuts through paint like nobodies business. So it's well worth keeping around.

I use GW paints and water them down with Airbrush Medium rather than water. Again, it's cheap and lasts freaking forever.

thats a great starter airbrush and should be perfect as a workhorse.

you just need a basic airbrush compressor to start with. the cost goes up the more quiet the compressor is while building up pressure.

i use this kit https://www.amazon.com/ZENY-Airbrush-Compressor-Multipurpose-Tattoo/dp/B01M33C8MV/ref=sr_1_20?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1526986007&sr=1-20&keywords=airbrush+compressor

the hose it comes with should work with the neo.

That unit will work, but a bunch of manufacturers make near-identical compressors and some are cheaper, like this one.

​

Some reviews note poor quality on the fitting between the air tank and the water trap/regulator assembly, but that hasn't been my experience. Maybe quality control has improved since those reviews, or maybe I just got lucky. Your mileage may very.

I have this kit (more or less) https://www.amazon.com/Master-Performance-Airbrushing-Dual-Action-Airbrush/dp/B0017640RK

Definitely that compressor, and some similar Master branded airbrush. I'm lazy and inevitably end up fucking up the cleaning every few months and need to replace it, but at $26 it's not that big a deal. For a long time I just sprayed into a cardboard box near a window with a fan running, recently switched to one of the master branded spraybooths and while nicer, it's far from required.

So i just got back from Asia and got a haul of HG and one RG and MG. I'm just getting back into Gunpla after a 10~year hiatus, and want to take a step up in to beginner level painting/panel lining/etc instead of just straight builds.

Some 1/144s I got that I want to start working on:
HGBF X-1 FullCloth (the one Lucas used in BFT)
V2 AB
HG Wing0
HGBF Wing Honoo? (Its a red.... Wing gundam?)
HD X Divider

I dont know the first thing about painting, and have watched some tutorials here and on youtube.

1. Will the Gundam Colour markers be enough for beginner level of painting and cover most generic colours? I do have painting brushes/trays from my wife's painting tools.
   
   Gundam Marker basic set
   
   Gundam Marker Metallic
   
   
2. I also brought a... thickish? panel line marker instead of a fine tip one. I think its GM301/302 or something. Lets just say i made a mess trying to panel line a SD (Gundam Base limited Musha Godmaru if that matters? ver Clear colour). Is this not used for panel lining? I bought this with recommendation from the staff at Tokyo Gundam Base (using Google Translate...)
   
   
3. I randomly bought a Gloss spray from a shop in Akihabara? I believe that is branded Mr.Hobby? Should it be used because i paint/panel line? I've seen some say before but some also after? or should a gloss coat be done with paint instead of spray?
   
   
4. I browsed around the web and see a "add-on" for HG V2 with the Wings of light effect, but can't seem to find it anywhere? Is there a way I can purchase this? I live in Canada Toronto if that matters.
   
   Thanks in advance for the random questions.

I also said that you could "get away without the extra torso", so save yourself the re-draw if you're happy with it, just work on the arms.

I know that it's a couple extra bucks, but some tracing paper and/or a light box might really help with revisions. You can get them at any art store.

https://www.amazon.com/Artists-Tracing-Sheets-Translucent-Sketching-Lightweight/dp/B0788K7D3K/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1525955462&sr=8-13&keywords=tracing+paper
https://www.amazon.com/Ultra-thin-Brightness-Sketching-Stencilling-X-rayViewing/dp/B01M26S3VY/ref=pd_sim_229_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01M26S3VY&pd_rd_r=45M3ZZWCPYYH9E7AWSEC&pd_rd_w=ZPgFf&pd_rd_wg=UYM5X&psc=1&refRID=45M3ZZWCPYYH9E7AWSEC

So this was my first gunpla! I got impatient waiting for my gundam markers to come in (which are taking forever!) so i decided to try my hand at lining and using the decals. I wanted to put one i cared a little less about before i put together my SD Freedom Gundam. I was thinking about doing Freedom with some orange instead of blue (maybe), but wasn't sure how to do a metallic-ish orange without an airbrush :P

I recommend this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M26S3VY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought it for class and has been working great for me.

For your budget I'll go with a Badger Patriot 105 Arrow, it's so easy to use and clean and the Arrow will give you a fine line if needed. A cheap compressor with a tank and a quick connect and you're good to go !

Badger Patriot Arrow : https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Co-105-2XR-Airbrush/dp/B00471RFQA/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=badger+patriot+105&qid=1567304916&s=gateway&sprefix=badger+pa&sr=8-5

Quick connect Badger for all hose : https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Co-51-038-Disconnect/dp/B000BPOJCO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=badger+quick+connect&qid=1567305182&s=gateway&sprefix=badger+qui&sr=8-3

Cheap Compressor : https://www.amazon.com/ZENY-Airbrush-Compressor-Airbrushing-Multipurpose/dp/B01M33C8MV/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=airbrush+compressor+with+tank&qid=1567305014&s=gateway&sprefix=airbrush+compressor+&sr=8-3

With airbrush cleaner and thinner, and a cleaner pot, I think I fit your budget.... You can use the standard Badger Patriot 105 but the needle is .75mm instead of .5mm so you get less fines lines

u know how satisfied u will nbe if uy clicj on one foi rthese linkish

https://www.amazon.com/Uncle-Jims-Worm-Farm-Composting/dp/B000Q5S7RM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491257886&sr=8-1&keywords=worms

https://www.amazon.com/Dummy-Display-Phone-Model-Non-working/dp/B01MTVDPOQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491257901&sr=8-1&keywords=fake+iphone

https://www.amazon.com/Nasco-Fetus-13-Weeks/dp/B004JOD3G6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491257919&sr=8-1&keywords=fetus

https://www.amazon.com/Nasco-Fat-Old-Fred-Black/dp/B004JOB9Z8/ref=pd_sbs_328_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004JOB9Z8&pd_rd_r=80Y6TG8QQ7R4GMA6TJEH&pd_rd_w=SAtuy&pd_rd_wg=dARaX&psc=1&refRID=80Y6TG8QQ7R4GMA6TJEH

https://www.amazon.com/RCA-RCT6103W46H-10-inch-Android-Keyboard/dp/B013LAHT40/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491257959&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=rca+tablet&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Whitelabel-Bluetooth-Dongle-Compatible-BlueSoleil/dp/B00E86EFY4/ref=sr_1_25?ie=UTF8&qid=1491257981&sr=8-25&keywords=bluetooth+dongle

https://www.amazon.com/FunKo-FUN5545-Shrek/dp/B00WMMTUNW/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1491258011&sr=8-13&keywords=shrek

[thasnk gpeopel fmor all yur support

u know how satisfied u will nbe if uy clicj on one foi rthese linkish

https://www.amazon.com/Uncle-Jims-Worm-Farm-Composting/dp/B000Q5S7RM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491257886&sr=8-1&keywords=worms

https://www.amazon.com/Dummy-Display-Phone-Model-Non-working/dp/B01MTVDPOQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491257901&sr=8-1&keywords=fake+iphone

https://www.amazon.com/Nasco-Fetus-13-Weeks/dp/B004JOD3G6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491257919&sr=8-1&keywords=fetus

https://www.amazon.com/Nasco-Fat-Old-Fred-Black/dp/B004JOB9Z8/ref=pd_sbs_328_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004JOB9Z8&pd_rd_r=80Y6TG8QQ7R4GMA6TJEH&pd_rd_w=SAtuy&pd_rd_wg=dARaX&psc=1&refRID=80Y6TG8QQ7R4GMA6TJEH

https://www.amazon.com/RCA-RCT6103W46H-10-inch-Android-Keyboard/dp/B013LAHT40/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491257959&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=rca+tablet&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Whitelabel-Bluetooth-Dongle-Compatible-BlueSoleil/dp/B00E86EFY4/ref=sr_1_25?ie=UTF8&qid=1491257981&sr=8-25&keywords=bluetooth+dongle

https://www.amazon.com/FunKo-FUN5545-Shrek/dp/B00WMMTUNW/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1491258011&sr=8-13&keywords=shrek

[thasnk gpeopel fmor all yur support

You can get a tankless one .

It runs near constantly and can heat up. They are not ideal, but can do the trick for small jobs. I tend to work on my models for an entire day once a week, so I have one with a 3L tank.

If you got the super cheapie one there for $60 you could get the Badger 105 and you would probably have a little bit left over.

There is also this one. It is cheaper, so I really can’t speak to it’s quality.

If you can, buy yourself one of these, and some water based clay to get a hang on anatomy and positioning. Good luck!

model masters flat black.
also if you wanted to try a chrome look these are pretty good: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E7EFSVU/

It will probably be fine, but if you want to ensure that a signature is permanent, use a paint marker instead of a normal Sharpie. It's expensive, but it is guarantueed permanent. It uses an oil based paint instead of standard marker ink, and you'll never wipe that stuff off.


Why a laptop though? Seems like an odd thing to have someone sign.

Thanks, good tip. Was planning on getting this from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Heartybay-10Pieces-Round-Pointed-Nylon/dp/B00V4EG6D6

I really like these artist pens have some in black and some in grey. Feels more authoritative then pencil and you can get a nice sense of tone with the greys.

Thanks! can you tell from the look if this compressor will fit with the eclipse; or what I should be looking for to determine compatibility? $65

I ordered this back in February and have been using it ever since. The compressor has been pretty reliable, and it doesn't hurt to have 2 gravity-fed brushes in the kit for that price.

I probably sit down to use mine a couple of times a week with a few down weeks mixed in. I'd probably estimate that the compressor has probably logged a solid 55 to 70 hours of total work over the past 3 months between learning/practice, X-Wing Minis, Legion, and terrain making.

I'm pretty new to airbrushing but I recently got this airbrush and I found it suits my needs. I wanted a compressor that had a tank so I had steady airflow, a regulator, and a water trap and this unit has all three for a reasonable price. At first I went to hobby lobby too but I found all their compressors were pretty expensive even after the discount. So, I don't have any recommendations from the list but the point zero compressor is solid for the price.

Sure, here it is on amazon:

Moloto Liquid Chrome

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E7EFSVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_pve4BbEQ8EQP4

Looks like they have different size tips, I was able to get the 1mm one at hobby shops near me

I bought this light table and the light can go through 5 pages of watercolor paper.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M26S3VY/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I normally have a sketch ready before hand but this will work well for you from my experience.

Also, looking at stuff on Amazon, would this be a decent kit to get started with? I'm sure the paints are fiarly useless but I've heard good things about the HP-CS and the the extra stuff seem to be a decent deal Vs. buying it all seperately?

Amazon bundle

So, you could start with this (this is what I started with, and while it tends to clog, it does the job):https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Multi-purpose-Dual-action-Compressor/dp/B001TO578Q/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1520958546&sr=8-4&keywords=masters+airbrush

But if you want to dive in head first...I recommend the below:
https://www.amazon.com/AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR-Airbrush-Published-Exclusively/dp/B001738DXU/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1520958546&sr=8-12&keywords=masters+airbrush
& https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Eclipse-Hp-Cs-W-Airhose/dp/B00695CY54/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1520958642&sr=8-2&keywords=iwata+hpcs


As for accessories - get yourself some m3 masks, gloves, medea airbrush cleaner https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-Airbrush-Cleaner-16-Oz/dp/B003TJA0S6/ref=pd_sim_21_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003TJA0S6&pd_rd_r=ZNFGCQKPJZHMJ0HX1Y51&pd_rd_w=sFOW8&pd_rd_wg=8bTp7&psc=1&refRID=ZNFGCQKPJZHMJ0HX1Y51, and one of these https://www.amazon.com/Airbrush-Cleaning-Needle-Nozzle-Holder/dp/B0154HN2NA/ref=pd_sim_21_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0154HN2NA&pd_rd_r=ZNFGCQKPJZHMJ0HX1Y51&pd_rd_w=sFOW8&pd_rd_wg=8bTp7&psc=1&refRID=ZNFGCQKPJZHMJ0HX1Y51

https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Portable-Airbrush-Compressor-Oil-less/dp/B004KNDQCM/

Compressor reliability does seem to be a crapshoot. I have a paasche cheapie ~100 bucks i bought 4 years ago that is still alive and kicking with intermittent use.

My advice would be to try out a cheaper one first. The one I linked comes with an airtank too. I just don't think 2.6x the cost is justified for compressor internals.

Yeah, that's the right one. Sorry I said chrome earlier-- i had read either on RWI or RG where someone was trying this one..

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E7EFSVU/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A79CLRHOQ3NF4

but metallic silver is the safe bet.

Hey man, I've been using the air compressor from this for over a year and it performs admirably: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010TQCOEE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Only downside is that it's slightly noisy but It has an adjustable pressure and works very well for the price. I personally use a PSI of 30 or so but if you wanna be a cowboy and use 50 you certainly can.

I just got this about a month ago. I'm in love so far. Good kit to get you everything you need to start.

http://www.amazon.com/AIRBRUSH-Airbrush-Compressor-Instructional-Quick-Connector/dp/B001BO4X8Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1396252600&sr=8-2&keywords=iwata+hp-cs

Army Painter has some some really nice washes as well.

Great, now Amazon is recommending some really weird shit for me.

Tikteck A4 Ultra-thin Portable LED Light Box Tracer USB Power Cable Dimmable Brightness LED Artcraft Tracing Light Box Light Pad for Artists Drawing Sketching Animation Stencilling X-rayViewing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M26S3VY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_t5j7CbVYHR58V

Got something like this for my classroom.

This is what I got. They shake like paint pens do, so I figured they were the same.

Thank you.

What is the purpose of the yellow, red and blue pens if you are just going to use the grey, black and brown ones?

You don't need anything heavy duty for airbrushing, but get one with a tank for sure.

I use this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004KNDQCM but it seems to no longer be available. It's quiet enough that I can close a door and barely hear it from the other room. Cost around $80, so target a price in that area.

From what I've read the expensive 'name brand' ones don't seem to be worth the extra price and you should just be prepared to replace the compressor every few years.

Scanning is costly, yeah. If you shoot a roll a week or more, it's a no-brainer, cause you'll make back your costs on what you save in paying for lab scans pretty quick. If you shoot less than that, "it depends".

If you're just shooting 35mm, a used Plustek is a great way to go, or even a new one if you want a warranty. If you also shoot medium format, I'd look for a used Epson V700 or higher; I wouldn't bother with the lower number Epson flatbeds; the resolution just isn't enough for me to make it worth the hassle of scanning.

If you already have a DSLR or other interchangeable lens camera, and especially if you already have a macro lens for it, you can also try DSLR scanning. Even if you don't have a camera, you can get set up for around $500-700 depending on what you need to buy. If I had to do it from scratch here's what I'd get.

• Nikon D3200 (24mp) and 40mm f/2.8 macro (really sharp lens) -- used $300
  
• For 35mm scanning: Nikon ES-2 film holder -- new $140
  
• For 120 scanning: Lomography Digitaliza film holder -- new $35
  
• LED tracing pad for backlighting -- new $23
  
• Cheap tripod and ballhead (tons of these on amazon) -- new $66
  
• Rocket blower -- new $10
  
• Cotton gloves 25pk -- new $24
  
• Adobe Lightroom + Photoshop package -- $10/month
  
• Negative Lab Pro lightroom plugin license -- $99 one-time
  
  So all in that's everything you need for DLSR scanning, and it comes to $707 plus the ongoing LR subscription. You could cut the cost a lot if you already own some of those things, or by using a cheaper 35mm holder than the Nikon ES-2, such as a 35mm-sized Digitaliza, or rigging up an older Nikon ES-1. You also don't need NLP and Lightroom; you could get away with free software like the GIMP. You might also be able to find a cheaper tripod at a yardsale or thrift store that will work fine, but they can be clunkier than modern ones.
  
  All that is why people say "if you already have a camera" with DSLR scanning. Otherwise, why not just get a brand new Plustek 8100i AI for $490 and get about the same level of image quality for less money, or even less with a used model. So, it kind of depends on your personal situation.

You should definitely look at some washes/shades to really bring out the details, especially on the faces.

It's amazing how much of a difference a little wash makes. There are lots of tutorials on YouTube if you want to see how washes work.

I prefer Games Workshop washes, but Army Painter washes work well and aren't super expensive.

This was perfect for me to get started:

https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Airbrush-Dual-Action-Guns/dp/B010TQCOEE/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=POINTZERO&qid=1567225880&s=arts-crafts&sr=1-1

I use Master Airbrush stuff. I never used the super expensive airbrushes or whatever, and I don't plan on doing so when i can get a everything I need for a complete airbrushing solution for the price of just one airbrush.

I currently use this: https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Multi-purpose-Professional-Airbrushing/dp/B006HJCP8S/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1478092330&sr=8-9&keywords=airbrush

However I wish I had gotten one with an airtank and not just a compressor, as the compressor is always running when I'm actually brushing.

I would recommend going with this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017640RK/ref=pd_sbs_201_3?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0017640RK&pd_rd_r=CS5PGKKXM5455B94V0DA&pd_rd_w=LpOU8&pd_rd_wg=rukUc&psc=1&refRID=CS5PGKKXM5455B94V0DA

It's the same as I am currently using, but comes with an airtank (And that's the lowest price I've seen for it).

If that is a little steep to jump in with, I started with this months ago:

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-MAS-KIT-VC16-B22-Compressor/dp/B00BF0MW9G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478092330&sr=8-1&keywords=airbrush

And it has everything you need (minus paint) to get started, It's a great kit to get started, but the lack of a PSI gauge will limit you fairly quickly. And if you upgrade, the airbrush can still be kept moving forward.

Thanks for the suggestions! She actually got a disappearing ink pen recently and was pretty pumped about it. I don't think she has a magnetic needle holder, so I'll look into that!

I was also thinking a light box, she mentioned she wanted one but I don't know if there are any differences based on the material being traced. This was the model I had in mind: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M26S3VY/ref=crt_ewc_title_huc_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A21H40ERIBU45K

I prefer citadel over all. I use the citadel Colour app to help with the color choice and how to apply. I do use Vallejo when I need an air brush version of a color that Citadel doesn’t have or for priming.

I understand the stance you have on the pricing with citadel, but you can make that line of paint last longer.

Head to amazon and order these items
15ml dropper bottles
1ml needless syringe
flow aid
small stainless steel ball baring

By following the steps in this video on YouTube I was able to transfer all my base and layer paints to dropper bottles. Now I can limit how much paint I’m wasting to a minimum. Because like you said, they can be expensive

Looking at the photos, I'd say that you need to thin your paints a little bit more on the GW figures. Two or more coats may be required to get full coverage, but your results will look smoother.

How's the humidity where you live? We're moving into the summer months and that can affect how quickly paint dries. If it's drying too quickly, it may pick up some extra brush strokes. And if that is the case, you can either thin it farther or add some retarder medium to your stand water. I use Vallejo's. A wet palette can also help.

Using a reference will make you better at drawing creatively. Just don't use a photograph.

Seriously, set up a still life of any random crap you have. Toss your bath towel in a heap and draw that to study light and texture. Draw with your eyes closed or without lifting pencil from paper. Get people to pose for you or just sketch them when they're not paying attention. Draw self portraits.

Later on, when you decide you want to draw hobbits or unicorns or whatever, you'll have the mental reference you'll need. Plus mannequins are cheap.

Alvin Wooden Human Mannequin (Unisex) 12 Inches Tall https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OBMZIE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5vRWBb1ADA316

you might benefit from one of those little wooden skeletons artists use. You can pose the figure and then orient it to see the perspective you want to paint from.

https://www.amazon.com/Alvin-Wooden-Mannequin-Unisex-Inches/dp/B001OBMZIE

I think you would just see a whole lot less of the legs period, at least from this vantage point.

First of all, you need to use a flesh wash for flesh. Black will only ever work in a zombie situation. Secondly, wash does not work on flatter surfaces like that cloak. When using washes you need to mop up the areas that have pooling going on with a clean brush.

To fix this mini, repaint the cloak and the flesh, use a flesh wash (in my experience you need to get this right in one wash because multiple flesh washes looks bad), and use either a feathering/glazing technique (more advanced techniques) or a drybrush technique (easy as pie technique) on the cloak (paint the dark red base, heavy drybrush medium red, lighter drybrush light red, ultra light drybrush yellow). I think you should drybrush, honestly.

If you don't have the washes you need, I cannot possibly recommend the army painter quickshade set more. Their paint kinda sucks, but their washes are a must have. https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Warpaints-Quickshade-Wash/dp/B0714QL55V/

Master Performance G22 Airbrushing System Kit with Master TC-20T Compressor with Air Tank, Air Hose & G22 Dual-Action Gravity Feed Airbrush https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017640RK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jUvhAb1FG863K

It's that I also have cleaning fluid, thinning stuff, and a pot/stand. But that's pretty much it.

Hey everyone!

I'm as new as it gets. So, I made a shopping list after doing some research on everything that I think I need to start. I'll place the links to all the items in the lines below. Everything is on Amazon because... well why not?

Gundam

Glue

Marker

Tweezers

Knife

Cutters

Mat

More Markers!

*Krylon Matte Finish

Am I missing anything?

I got mine through Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01E7EFSVU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481870577&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=molotow+liquid+chrome&dpPl=1&dpID=414sZoEl3EL&ref=plSrch
If Amazon isn't an option for you, try going to Molotow.com to see if they can get you a link to a local supplier. I'm in Oregon and even ordering it through Amazon, it ended up coming from the U.K., so it took several weeks to get here.

Thank you, which markers should I pick up? these?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009AFN0S/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A9Q1SRRTDFE7O

You want to use flow aid to thin paints. This will dilute the color without thinning the paint.

To tell the truth, you'll want both as flow aid will make paint more glossy. You can either add matte medium or varnish it with matte finish to counteract.

Even better. Fat Old Fred

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004JOB9Z8/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_236_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=P38HWHG1YGYGVNP01ZW5&dpPl=1&dpID=51s7hCHnqQL

Looking to get my first air-brush kit so I can start to do proper paint jobs. I found this on Amazon and was wondering if the community thought this would be a good starter kit?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010TQCOEE

Would This be a good compressor

I can only afford one right now, which size would you recommend?

https://www.amazon.ca/Molotow-ONE4ALL-Acrylic-Marker-703-101/dp/B01E7EFSVU/ref=sr_1_1?crid=ES5LM22C2ZRE

If you don't want to mess around with ink, I'd recommend the Faber-Castell Pitt Artist Pens. http://amzn.com/B000TKEZDO

It would be better to get a compressor with a tank. And One cheap airbrush will be enough. No need for 3.

Something like this

These cheap airbrushes aren't great, but they will get the job done just fine.

I use a tablet with reference pictures, but another thing I have found useful is I have a "drawing model" doll - https://www.amazon.com/Alvin-Wooden-Mannequin-Unisex-Inches/dp/B001OBMZIE as an example - that i can pose and touch and then the model can see what I am talking about with a weird pose or look...

ZENY Pro 1/5 HP Airbrush Air Compressor Airbrushing Kit w/ 3L Tank and 6FT Hose Multipurpose for Hobby Paint Cake Tattoo Nail https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M33C8MV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wO.KDbYYQ7CR2

Own it myself. External tank and . . . Do I even have to mention the price. Nice unit.

They should! I've used that exact brand of white before.

You should also get a set of small tip paint brushes like these if you don't already have some.

About two hours and only around 20 bucks! Here the the links to what I used.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KNPM46/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007IK9M4K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01COLW9IS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (10ml bottles, good enough but next time I might spring for 30ml)

This, and getting out of the hobby and won't need them, nor the cleaning kit and pot, the gloss top coat, or the air brush cleaner.

CROCODILE DUNDEE!!!!! :D Now that's a knife!

Dude. Big Trouble In Little China on the big screen is awesomesauce. Resevoir Dogs is another good one of mine.

Baby Bunnies. Precious. Baby. Bunnies. Cuteness. Precious. Darlings. Sweethearts!

Pens to draw bunnies!

<3 <3 <3 <3 <3BUNNAHZZZZZ<3 <3 <3 <3 <3

I bought this air compressor for airbrushing model kits. I was wondering if I could also use it to dust out my PC. It comes with a moisture trap, but I'm not exactly sure how to deliver the air.

My first thought would be to just use my airbrush, assuming it's completely dry (I can run IPA through it to ensure it's dry) and letting the PC dry overnight (just for added safety), would this be a good idea? Or should I buy a cheap airgun instead?

See if retarder agents might help with that. http://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-VJ70597-Retarder-17ml/dp/B000PH9JP0

To add to this, invest in a Drawing Mannequin. You can even get one for android. They will help you plan body poses and give you something to work off of.

Hey!

If you're using water, sometimes you gotta keep mixing it up so the pigment actually stays in the mixture. I recommend Lahmian medium, or Flow Aid for thinning down paints. Also try a wet palette!

To blend colours you want to glaze the highlights. You can do this by snagging a glazing medium, or just thin the shit out of your paint and go over the levels of highlight. Normally you'd want a mix of your darkest and lightest colour when doing this.

I try to paint the entire model, but don't bother with things that will never see the light of day. I paint for tabletop quality, so that's that.

If I'm disappointed I try again! That's why test models are important.

Might this be something like you were talking about?

https://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Gundam-Marker-Markers/dp/B0009AFN0S

A general pack like this, is a good starting point. If at some point you need a color outside of that set, try searching for an apporpriate color through hobbywave, or robot4less.

http://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Gundam-Marker-Markers/dp/B0009AFN0S/ref=cm_lmf_tit_6


You can also use one of these for panel lining:

http://www.amazon.com/Gundam-GM01-Black-Fine-Line/dp/B0027ORJ10/ref=pd_sim_t_4

I bought this compressor along with a Iwata Neo airbrush and a 6' hose. Came out to around 150$ total.

That compressor's like a 3rd the cost of some other compressors with the same features. And while it's only been a month, I haven't had a single issue with it.

I have a similar one looks like just the name on the side is different

PointZero Airbrush Dual Action... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010TQCOEE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

The Army Painter Warpaints Quickshade Wash Set - Miniature Painting Kit of 11 Dropper Bottles with Fluid Acrylic Paint Color Washes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0714QL55V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ay-JDbGNRG16A

This is what I got and I like it a lot. Plenty of washes and not too expensive.

What are your thoughts on something like this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010TQCOEE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_Pc.LzbPHQ3Z47

Thinking for a beginner to get their feet wet, and have a few junk(?) brushes to learn on so you don't have to worry about totally screwing up one of the $100+ airbrushes?

I bought the set of gundam markers in the link below. However, when I tried to apply the gray, the gray looked darker than the gray from the runner. I smeared it to give it a feather effect but it was still too dark to be the same color. Am I suppose to let it dry first and then it would be the same shade of gray?

Also, this shade of gray of course only works of the darker one. What color is the one from the legs? Can't be th white one.... can it?

Lastly, is there a marker for epyon's color scheme if I want to continue with this method for epyon?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009AFN0S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M33C8MV/ :-)