(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best pet supplies

Your questions aren't silly! It's great that you're thinking about how you can make you both comfortable before you dive into a new situation. Always set yourself up for success! :)

> do I buy a litter box/food/scratch-post before I plan to bring a cat home?

That's generally a good idea, yes. Means less stress for both of you as you're scrambling to get everything ready for him. You might ask the shelter what food the cat has been eating, as cats can get an upset tummy when switching brands/types. Not a big deal, but he will have poops that are a bit stinkier/liquidier than normal poops. That should alleviate within the week. You can lessen the tummy troubles by doing a more gradual change, mixing the food he is currently on with the food he will be on more and more, until he is eating what you want him on. But you can honestly just do the change, too, and just deal with the sadpoops for a little while.

I suggest a couple of different scratching posts, if you have the space! Cats like having options, like a horizontal post and a vertical one. Cats also like being high up, so if you can swing a tall post with platforms, he will probably like that.

Get two litter boxes! A lot of people don't realize it, but the rule of thumb for number of litters you should have is NumberOfCats + 1. So, 1 cat + 1 = 2 boxes. Clean them often. Cats are very clean creatures (especially compared to dogs) and are MUCH more likely to have accidents when they feel they do not have a better option than peeing in your bed. That's not their fault. You wouldn't want to step on your own pee/poop either! If you have problems with litter getting kicked out of the box, a litter mat can be helpful.

> Do I need to buy a carrier for the cat?

Yep. You'll eventually need to take him to a vet in all likelihood, and a carrier will make that so much easier, as most cats despise the car. I recommend a hard carrier. The softer ones seem nicer in general, but the hard carriers are easier to clean out, and you never know how a cat will be in the car until... well. They're in it. One of our cats poops and pees every. single. time. So he always gets the hard carrier.

> Should I contact a vet before I get the cat?

The shelter might require you to have a vet already, so I'd probably at least pick one out from google search. They might require you to go get a checkup, but probably not. That's more of a rescue thing, I think. Most shelters have their own in-house vet, so it's not really necessary. Don't be afraid to contact the shelter if he seems to be coughing and wheezing. Upper respiratory infections are very common in shelter environments due to the crowded nature of them, but they are also very treatable, and the shelter will be able to give you medication for him.

> How do I train a cat?

Someone mentioned Jackson Galaxy, who I generally agree is pretty good for training if you have some problems. But most of the time, cats are pretty out-of-the-box ready pets. That is to say, if you have an environment that is good for cats (where you let them have some space, where you don't make a huge amount of loud noise, where they aren't prodded and poked at constantly), they generally don't need training. We've fostered tiny kittens that automatically knew how to use the litter box. We also have boy cats who were not fixed until well into adulthood and have never had problems spraying.
It's instinct to go in the box, especially once they're fixed and don't need to mark territory really.

> For those of you who own a cat/cats, any advice for this first-timer?

Give both of you time to get to know each other. Don't force it. He will come to you, given time and space, and you'll be able to cultivate a better relationship built on trust and mutual respect if he knows that you won't force him to do things that he doesn't want to do (especially at first--think about it like building a friendship with a person; you would trust your friends to do things that you would never trust a stranger to do, and it's the same for him).

Cooing and gentle words are generally pretty good for coaxing, as is letting him smell your hand/something that smells like you before you approach for pets. Think about it like introducing yourself. You wouldn't go up to someone you didn't know well and just touch them without at least saying hi.

Every cat I have ever known, male or female, fixed or not, will pee in a pile of anything if it is left long enough. They see it as 'trash,' and I think it just registers as litter. So, if you are the type to leave clothes on the floor... I would try to stop that.

Keep nails trimmed. Scratching posts are for sharpening nails, which is an instinct that they have to fulfill, and you're giving them an outlet for. Some people think it's for 'filing' the nails down, but it's not. It's for keeping them sharp enough to get prey. You'll have to trim them.

And this is just my own personal opinion, but... young--but not kitten--boy cats are best for first timers. I have one girl, and I absolutely adore her, but she is very high maintenance/prissy/touchy, whereas my three boys are all pretty chill. Each cat is different though, so obviously your mileage may vary! It's just something I've noticed in general in my time of owning and fostering cats, that boys are more laid back/forgiving than girls (and thus I think a little easier for a first timer). Young adults are also great for first timers because you have less accidents (though that's generally not a big concern anyway) and they're more able to be on their own for longer periods of time. Older adults/seniors are great too if you want a really, really chill, more stand-offish cat, or if you want a cat that you'll have for <10 years, but if you want a little more energy and time, a cat that's about 1-2 years old is a GREAT way to go.

Some toys that are great for cats include the classic laser pointer, the feather toy, catnip toys, and crinkle balls.

Cats prefer to drink away from where they eat, so place his food bowl and his water bowl apart from one another! Some cats also prefer running water to still water, so if you notice your cat likes drinking out of the faucet (or if you just want to spoil your cat like I spoil mine...) you can get a water fountain for him!

Finally, if it's not working out for some reason, like your personalities just don't mesh well... take him back. I know it sounds hard, but it's best for him if he is in an environment where he is understood and his needs are met. There's no sense in forcing both of you to be miserable. Some shelters let you do a foster-to-adopt sort of thing, where you sort of try each other out for a bit. I like this option, because you hope for the best, but it feels a little bit easier to tap out if you need to. Either way, there's no shame in tapping out. Sometimes things just don't work the way you thought they would.

Sorry for the novel, but I wanted to be as thorough as I could. My parents recently got their first cat, and it's been... an ordeal for them, getting used to it.
It's great that you have some experience with cats though, so I think you'll be fine! Seriously, cats are sort of the next level up from a goldfish as far as easiness. Should be fine.

I hope you and your new furbaby are super, super happy together! :)

Congrats! Asking questions like this is the first step to becoming a responsible GSD owner. I would keep up with the research as you two learn how to become good buddies; I've owned GSDs my whole life and I'm still picking up good tips from trainers and the like. I've got a detailed response below, but feel free to PM me if you want to talk further. I'm always happy to help, and I wish you and your girl the best!

To your questions:

• Yes, GSDs are totally German Shedding Dogs. But this is more manageable than you think! Make brushing fun by familiarizing her with a quick brush everyday, 10 minutes. Brushing a dog is twice as hard when they're squirmy. Get yourself a cheap self-cleaning slicker brush like this. As long as you make brushing a regular occurrence, you cut back a lot on and hassle.
  
  
• Depending on her age (how far into puppyhood), you might be facing some terrible 2's or 3's. Even older GSDs, if prone to separation anxiety or boredom, will bark and exhibit destructive behavior. The key is to boost confidence (look up separation anxiety training tips) and reduce boredom, which can often be helped with regular exercise, as you mentioned, and enrichment. If you're on a set schedule (e.g. Come home from work, quick brush, dinner for you both, then a walk), she'll be far less likely to drive herself and your neighbor nuts while waiting for you. Kong toys filled with frozen treats (peanut butter, kibble, cream cheese) are great for distracting her and keeping her occupied.
  
  
• Take a few minutes to dog-proof your house the first week you introduce her to everything. This means giving everything waist-high and below a second look; GSDs are clever and great jumpers, and will get into open cupboards more easily than you think. Does your backyard have a tall fence? GSDs have been known to clear 6 foot fences (mine did often).
  
  
• Here's some recommendations for a dog seatbelt. We have friends that use both Sleepypod and Ruffwear with good success. If you plan on bringing her along for car rides often, investing in a car seat cover is a great idea; keep hair and gunk off your car and makes the backseat a more enjoyable space for her. If you're into hiking, dog boots are absolutely the way to go.
  
  A few other things worth doing that will make both your lives easier:
  
  
• Start teaching dental hygiene now! My dog is 12-years-old and besides an old injury leading to hip dysplasia (a common GSD genetic condition), the only thing deteriorating is his teeth. Dogs that eat kibble and soft food are more likely to build-up in their teeth than dogs that eat raw (which is something you might want to research). I recommend grabbing an inexpensive doggy "finger-sleeve" toothbrush or just use a simple normal toothbrush and some special dog toothpaste and get your girl used to having her teeth brushed. She looks young, judging by her thin chest and big ears, so good habits will last her a lifetime! It'll save you a bunch of vet bills in the future.
  
  
• Familiarize yourself with which foods are not dog-friendly. For example, a lot of people know that chocolate and alcohol are bad, but are surprised that nuts and grapes are bad news. Veggies like broccoli, carrots, and pumpkin are great! We used to fill my dog's Kong with frozen pureed pumpkin in the summer as a treat; kept his coat nice and shiny.
  
  
• Raw bones are ok, cooked bones are not. Most people know not to feed dogs small chicken bones, but will often toss them a rib bone leftover from a BBQ. Cooked bones splinter easily and can hurt your dog. Swing by the butcher's next time you're grocery-shopping and ask them for a bag of marrow bones. They're fantastic for her teeth and your girl will love them! Stay away from cheap rawhide bones from Petsmart and the like; they gum up when chewed and are the opposite of healthy.
  
  
• I'm seeing a lot fewer tennis balls in dog parks these days, and for good reason, since research argues that they have some wear and tear on teeth. Chuck-It balls are rubber, bright orange, and hugely popular with big dogs because they're resistant to chew. They're meant to be used with a Chuck It Launcher which I've never seen a GSD not love before.
  
  
• Get her used to nail care ASAP and invest in a good pair of clippers or an electric dremel. Clippers are cheap, but scary to use for first-time dog owners because you're not experienced yet about where the nail's quick is. This can result in some accidental blood loss and, unfortunately, your dog deciding that you have committed a grievous injury never to be forgotten. A lot of people find using a dremel to grind nails down to a blunt edge to be less traumatic for dog and owner for this reason. Figure out which is best for you! A lot of dogs are sensitive to their feet being touched--handle her paws often (great excuse to each "shake"!) and use your fingers to gently touch between her toes. Great training for tick hunting and for nail grooming.
  
  
• Ask her politely to sit before each meal and before passing through doors and gates. Teach a "release" command (such as "OK!"). If she pulls on a leash, stop and ask her to sit; proceed when she obeys and looks up to you for your next cue. GSDs are super smart and love meeting owner expectations; let her know early which manners are standard and she will learn quickly. Her #1 priority is to be your best friend; be honest with her and she'll reward you ten times over. :)

Let her into your room! She'll be much happier with more space. I highly recommend having a cat tree or two in your place. Give her a box to hide in. Or even try one of these out!

KOJIMA Shark Round House Puppy Bed with Pet Bed Mat, Small to Medium (Gray, Small) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HRXQ90I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dcINybCJMQWEE

Don't prevent her from hiding, but do challenge her once in a while to be comfortable in different rooms and open spaces.

Try the toy distraction on your 2 year old cat. That's what I meant. If she's showing aggression, it's one of the best ways to distract her from the cat who's more shy.

Make sure the new cat isn't doing anything to provoke your 2 year old cat. If she is, that behavior will need to be adjusted before the 2 year old cat can be comfortable with her.

100% agree on the tuna. If you'd like to learn about cat nutrition, I highly recommend http://www.thecatsite.com for its active forums and articles on feline nutrition (they can also give great input on behaviors)

Here are two nutrition articles to get you started:

http://www.thecatsite.com/a/how-to-choose-the-right-food-for-your-cat

http://www.thecatsite.com/a/grain-free-cat-food-what-does-it-mean

You'll find that grain free high protein wet/raw foods are best for your babies as unlike people and even dogs, cats are obligate carnivores. (Here is some of that science: https://www.waltham.com/document/nutrition/cat/dog/differences-between-cat-and-dog/284/ )
My recommendation is making a small trip to an independent pet food store (not petco, petsmart, or even pet supplies plus) Take a look on yelp for good ones in your area. (Just search for pet food stores) If there are none, try Chewy.com. They sell all sorts of pet foods (you can filter by grain free) The forums on thecatsite are very good in terms of discussion of different commercial and home-made food options. (As you might be able to tell, I've done a lot of my own research!)

But yes. You are correct. Plain tuna does not contain the amount of Taurine (that's just one or the major ones) cats need to thrive. Fish generally is something you should stray from due to high mercury content and addictiveness. (Dry food is also very addictive and contributes most to obesity, digestive issues, UTIs, urinary crystals, and more)

And good! Yes, be creative in your ways to distract her! If she's not enjoying her favorite toy, try a new one. (Cats love Da'Bird and similar long (~3 ft) fishing pole type toys. ) Check out these links.


GoCat Da Bird Rod and Feather Cat Toys, Assorted Colors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BOVEU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wzINybW7DMFV9

Cats really jump for these types of long fishing pole toys that use feathers or other fur like parts. I do recommend always having a handy supply of strong duct tape to fix minor issues and strengthen the parts of well-used toys. (I had to tightly reinforce the end of the rod that connects to the string so the end piece holding the string wouldn't come off)


Petmate Jackson Galaxy Cat Crawl Solid Tunnel, Green/Orange https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O3GWKHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UDINyb34HXAEW

Great space for stalking and hiding during play


Nature In Hand Cat Play House with Catnip and Scratcher (Cat Scratching House) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AJAHOC2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DFINybC4C5TWA

Triple function hide, stealth play, and cardboard scratcher. I have one that my cat loves! You can sometimes find seasonal looking ones on clearance at local pet stores (I have a gingerbread xmas themed one that I got on clearance for half the price on amazon) Cardboard scratchers, to me, are a must. Whether it's something like this or just by itself.



Nano Robotic Cat Toy (White/Blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RWU17KS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kyINyb5FX7DB2

This one is great if you have hard wood or tile floors. Otherwise, pass.


The idea here is to give them more enrichment, hide space, and ways to play.

That said, having more vertical space is also a really good idea.

You know how cat trees (especially the 6 ft ones) are like 200 dollars at pet stores?
Check this out:

Go Pet Club Cat Tree, 50W x 26L x 72H, Beige https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003WGGWQA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_awINybGSAA2EB


BestPet CT-9073 Cat Tree Scratcher Play House Condo Furniture Toy, 73-Inch, Beige https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NOL7OQU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-wINybKYYYCDX

You can find more on amazon. Groupon or eBay are also good sources. Your cats will be more comfortable if they can observe their territory from a high place rather than hiding behind a toilet. I really do think it would help give them more confidence. You could even install cat shelves on your walls if you want to. But a cat tree(or two!) goes a long way!

Give them their own favorite places to occupy so that they are better able to share their space.

u/ShySquids - Continued comment:

For your next adventure into betta-keeping, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND this tank: https://www.petsmart.com/fish/starter-kits/top-fin-essentials-aquarium-starter-kit-5262256.html 5.5g tank

My bettas love theirs! https://i.imgur.com/6M2Qu58.mp4 <-- Here's my pink-red combtail boi Raiku, wiggling super excitedly in his 5.5g tank :)

OR better yet: https://www.petsmart.com/fish/starter-kits/top-fin-essentials-aquarium-starter-kit-5262353.html (comes with bonus 50w adjustable heater too, so one less thing to buy)

Just be sure to mod the included filter like this: https://i.imgur.com/QYNiVEV.mp4

With these (or similar, but aquarium-specific) materials:

- https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-SPEC-Biomax-2-1-ounces/dp/B0049RNW96?th=1&psc=1

- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R38MMXG/

- https://www.amazon.com/Marineland-PA0100-Bonded-Filter-312-Square-Inch/dp/B0002565PW/

​

OR better yet:

Here's my favorite sponge filter setup which I use in my own 5.5g tanks (they're rated for up to 20g and are nice compact sponge filters, so do not take away much space from your tank).

https://www.amazon.com/Powkoo-Double-Biochemical-Aquarium-Gallons/dp/B01M3VALFU/ My bettas (and I) LOVE LOVE LOVE THIS!!!

AND from Petsmart - I HIGHLY recommend the TopFin Quartz BioBalls ceramic filter media, the rounded pearl shape makes them fit a lot more into a small space such as the dual-media chambers in the sponge filter I highly recommended above. It looks like this in store: https://i.imgur.com/Xz50k5F.jpg (I think it's not yet listed on their website because the stuff is still a new release).

https://www.amazon.com/U-picks-Aquarium-Gallon-Quietest-Accessories/dp/B07RRNDMXJ/ Nice air pump with all accessories to set it up - quiet mini air pump, check valve, and airline tubing.

See it all in action: https://i.imgur.com/KAyjMaj.mp4 (not my tank but my friends when she was fishless cycling hers, and the sponge filter is nicely visible. Mine is hidden behind bunch of silk plants :< lol)

I HIGHLY RECOMMEND the above sponge-filter setup as it provides excellent filtration + is very gentle on the betta. (IF & when you get this filter + all the stuff to run it, let me know and I can walk you through the setup of it in full details at that time).

Your 3g tank, while it certainly wasn't the worst, is still well below the minimum tank size we recommend for betta here, which is 5 gallons. As I explained before, a smaller tank requires far more maintenance than a larger tank, and is also far less stable in the nitrogen cycle which can result in issues with water quality.

​

I hope you'll start your next betta tank adventure with either the 5.5g or the 10g kit (or larger lol) and FISHLESS cycle. The Nitrogen Cycle and the Fishless Cycle - getting your aquarium ready for fish - INJAF

Must-Have items for your Fishless Cycling process + Additional Info:

https://www.amazon.com/API-FRESHWATER-800-Test-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B000255NCI/ <--- ABSOLUTELY MUST HAVE, VERY IMPORTANT, liquid water parameters test kit. Three main things to check every-other-day: Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate. Not cycled will read 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, 0 Nitrate. Cycling in progress will read some ammonia and/or some nitrite, but little or no nitrate. Fully Cycled will read 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, and 5-10 ppm of Nitrate, then when nitrate reaches 15-20 ppm in a cycled tank a water change is necessary to reduce said nitrates.

https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116012300-Stability-500ml/dp/B0002APIIW <-- Beneficial Bacteria blend, add 2x-3x the recommended amount of this directly into the filter, filter media, & tank water, especially after a water change. Add the bene-bacteria on a DAILY basis, for up to a week or longer if you like. Don't worry about "overdosing" on Bene-bacteria, the more the better when trying to kickstart a nitrogen cycle.

https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116043304-Prime-500ml/dp/B00025694O/ <--Best water conditioner, also temporarily binds ammonia into less harmful form.

Optional but might be good to consider getting: Dr. Tim's Ammonia (for fishless cycling)

Ive sent this out before and saved it for this very reason! Hope it helps..

Requirements:

• at least a 5 gallon tank (preferably 10, they sell kits at petsmart- 5 and 10 gallon options with lids and filters etc)

• filter (low flow, might need to be baffled) sponge filters are good choices and just need an air pump, standard airline tubing and check valve - gang valves can also be made to safely adjust the pressure)

• a heater set to 78-80° (preferably adjustable, for a 5gal youd want a 25watt for 10 a 50watt would work perfectly)

• API master test kit (or some liquid water test kit meaning not test strips because they’re inaccurate) I included a link to this on Amazon below, you can also look it up on petsmart I think its like $22 and they’ll price match in store.

• CYCLE THE TANK before you get the fish!!!!*** super mega important

• ⁠Nitrogen Cycle: https://fishlab.com/nitrogen-cycle/

• ⁠Fishless Cycling: https://www.buildyouraquarium.com/how-to-fishless-cycle/

• ⁠Diagram/explanation on nitrogen cycle I posted: https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/comments/c8evu4/nitrogen_cycle_art_by_me/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app

Recommendations:

• live plants are always preferred and easy to care for, but if not then silk or soft silicone would be best. try to avoid plastic plants, they may feel soft to use but betta’s fins are extremely delicate. Bettas feel coziest with a lot of coverage like leafy plants! (fake or real)

• i LOVE real driftwood, it can be expensive. I got my pieces for around $15 each at a LFS. They up any tank design for sure, never gonna have a tank w out it again. but I understand its not always an option, just make sure you don’t get any sharp decor, or stuff that can leech into the water/paint chips off

• I also love Seachem Prime as a water conditioner. Mostly because only 2 drops treat a gallon, dechlorinates and detoxifies ammonia/nitrite/nitrate for about 24 hours too. So good in case of emergencies. I got my 1.7 ounce for $5 at petco. Its concentrated so itll last a long time!

• Keep up with weekly water changes in your already cycled tank. Maintenance is key to keeping parameters in check and fish healthy ime. Gravel siphons make it much easier as well. So do 5 gallon buckets and 1 gallon jugs that held spring water for me, I use the bucket to put old water in and the 1 gal for new water. I have two 5 gallons and so I change 1 gallon out every week. Never rinse the filter in tap water, use old tank water instead or dechlorinated water. Tap water kills beneficial bacteria! For similar reasons, don’t ever do 100% water changes. 15-25% once weekly is good for tanks 5 gallons and up!

• I recommend Northfin betta bits, no preservatives or artificial colors, little fillers if any, and whole ingredients, super good for the fish. High crude protein content as well. I got my small bag off Amazon for $7. Feeding 3-4 twice a day (am/pm) and fasting once a week is a decent schedule. I feed mine 6-8 pellets a day, just make sure your fish doesnt get bloated/constipated! Overfeeding can cause serious problems. Feeding pellets one at a time can help prevent this + excess waste. Mixing in frozen foods (i.e. bloodworms, mosquito larvae, daphnia, mysis/brine shrimp) is also a great way to supplement the diet with nutritious natural foods!

These links to supplies may also be helpful:

Seachem Prime Fresh and Saltwater Conditioner - Chemical Remover and Detoxifier 100 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255PFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JEpvDbA2GYR49

API Freshwater Master Test Kit 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water master Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cEpvDb8R85Q1K (A must!!)

DrTim's Aquatics - Ammonium... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006MP4QG6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share (You can use this to fishless cycle your tank!)

Northfin Food Betta Bits 1Mm... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M4Q5DQ4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Gravel Vacuum Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MLF981D?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share (This is what I use)

I also recommend you take a look at r/plantedtank for inspiration if you decide on live plants! :)

Feel free to dm or ask anything! Happy to help

Oh and this sub has loads of links and info in the about section ofc!

I get all my fleece from JoAnn stores. They often have fleece at 50% off per yard, so you can buy it in bulk and use it as needed. Any large fabric store will have lots of fleece in stock (I just prefer JoAnn because that's the best one I have in the area I live in). I'm sure you know this already, but just in case, please don't use cedar or pine chips as bedding for your rats; it's harmful to them. You can use fleece or aspen chip bedding (but freeze the aspen for 48 hours prior to use to make sure it's free of parasites).

I buy many rat toys on Amazon, and make some myself. If you're buying any kind of wooden rat toy, do be aware that many of them are made from soft woods like pine and cedar, which are super bad for rat respiratory systems. Hardwood toys are usually safe—just make sure it's not a combination wood that also has pine or cedar in it along with the hardwood. I personally do not buy wood toys on amazon, because the products often don't list what kind of wood they're made of. The only wood product I buy on Amazon is bags of untreated apple branch chewing sticks. I'll link you to some rat-safe toys and accessories I buy on amazon below! :)

Kaytee Lava Ledge
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00176F466/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

15" Chin Spin - Small Animal Exercise Wheel - Handmade in USA (Expensive, but it's the very best and safest wheel for rats.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GJ6SDBQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bright Starts Lots of Links Accessory Toy (Great for hanging things up in the cage.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001ABZGU2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

Small Animal Activity Toy Cotton Rope Net For Rat and Ferret Pet Bed for Parrot and Hamster Parrot
https://www.amazon.com/Animal-Activity-Cotton-Ferret-Hamster/dp/B0777NWKT9/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1519011945&sr=1-2&keywords=rat+rope+net

Kaytee Igloo Hideout, Large
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068K132/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ACCO Binder Clips, Medium, 2 Boxes, 12/Box (A7072050) (If using fleece as the bedding/liner in your cage, this helps to secure fleece to the Critter Nation pans.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TQ8FDB8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dr. Bronner's Pure-Castile Liquid Soap - Baby Unscented, 32oz. (I don't use any scented products with my rats since rat respiratory systems are so fragile, so this is the non-scented liquid soap I use to wash my hands and their non-fabric toys.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DAI76TC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pawliss Teeth Grinding Lava Block for Hamster Chinchilla Rabbit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HGHA6VW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Aspen/Booda Corporation BBX56134 Byrdy Cable Cross Bird Toy, Medium
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003WRHTG6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

200g(7oz) Apple Sticks Pet Snacks Chew Toys for Guinea Pigs Chinchilla Squirrel Rabbits Hamster(About 50-70 Sticks) by MAIYUAN (The only wood product I buy on Amazon.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WLL641Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ware Manufacturing Fun Tunnels Play Tube for Small Pets (Medium.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001LUMU9M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ware Manufacturing Plastic Scatterless Lock-N-Litter Small Pet Pan- Colors May Vary (Regular size, not jumbo.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003SLICDA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

JW Comfy Perch for Birds (Large, 36".)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AR754/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lixit Critter Space Pod 2 Large (You can hand these on the ceiling of the Critter Nation. My boys LOVE these!)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002X2NBNQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lixit Lbg-16 Glass Small Animal Bottle 16 Oz (16oz is always best for rats because of the bigger water spout. I've found that smaller bottles are a struggle for my boys to get water out of, so I only use the small ones for rat carriers/transporter cages. Tip: filtered water is best for rats, so if you can, get a Britta water filter.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WYCFK0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yummy Time Tiny Small Stoneware Pet/Dog Bowl
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NAUMYDC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I buy Harlan Teklad (Envigo) food blocks for my rats, which is one of the top two for rats (the other is Oxbow Regal Rat). Harland Teklad is hard to find though, so I buy mine through this animal rescue:
http://weecompanions.org/healthy-food

If you get these blocks, freeze them to extend their shelf life, and take them out from the freezer as needed to fill your ratties' bowls. Harlan Teklad is great because they have several formulas for rats based on their age, which is super helpful for their health. Young rats up to 8 months usually eat Harlan Teklad 2016 (16% protein), and after 8 months they eat Harlan Teklad 2014 (14% protein).

Also, I don't have a link for this, but the best laundry detergents to use to wash your rats' cloth toys or bedding with is one that's non-scented and is sensitive on skins.

Um, if I think of anything else, I'll add it. But for now, it's already a ton. :P Enjoy!

(And feel free to message me if you have any questions!)

I was in your shoes not too long ago, it's overwhelming! Here's a list of things that I bought, but I am not an expert so if others have better input go for that:

Equipment

• 10 gallon tank with hood
  
• Broad Spectrum Light The one that came with the hood did not provide enough for the plants, you definitely need to invest in a broad spectrum bulb.
  
• CaribSea Flora Max Substrate I learned that shrimp prefer darker color substrate, this was worth the investment! My shrimp were so unhappy with cheap gravel, after switching to this substrate they are very active.
  
• Air pump
  
• Sponge filter
  
• Heater, maybe optional for you?
  
• Thermometer
  
• Gallon Bucket
  
• Siphon
  
• Seachem Prime Because it's a smaller tank, I ended up poking a pinhole sized hole in the seal so that I could use it as drops rather than pouring it in.
  
• [Seachem Stability] (https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-67101230-Stability-500ml/dp/B0002APIIW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1499786377&sr=1-1&keywords=seachem+stability) Use this while you're cycling your tank, follow the instructions.
  
• API Test Kit
  
• Feeding Tray For the longest time I was really confused as to how the feeding tray worked, you can either get a tube or pre-soak the pellets and then drop them into the tray using long tweezers. This will help prevent ammonia/nitrite spikes.
  
• Long Tweezer Set
  
• Pellets Do also feed them blanched vegetables, make sure to peel the skin and buy organic to avoid chemicals/pesticides
  
• Timer Outlet Worth the investment! So you don't have to keep remembering to turn the light on and off.
  
  Shop for whatever is cheaper, I have a huge heater because I had an extra one from before. I've read that it's not necessary but also have read that if you want them to breed you need to stimulate warm water. For now, I keep the heater off and leave it at room temperature of 72F. They seem very happy! Most important in my opinion, add plenty of plants and a marimo ball or 2.
  
  Lastly, I'm unsure of the siphon, I think it's good to have a bucket and siphon just in case your water parameters are looking bad so you are prepared to do a water change. From what I read, shrimp have a very low bio load and should be able to sustain themselves. Make sure to do tests regularly.
  
  EDIT I just read that this is your first aquarium, so here is a detailed write up:
  
  Setting up your tank
  
  
• 1. Find a stable top to place your aquarium on, keep in mind a well sunlit room will mean more plant/algae growth. Make sure it's sturdy and made for heavy objects, don't want to place it on a flimsy shelf or it might break! I keep mine on top a waterproof place mat because water drips are going to happen.
     
• 2. Rinse everything as a precaution! NEVER use dish soap!! If you must sanitize, vinegar is okay. Just make sure to rinse thoroughly. Also, NEVER use any kind of soap on your hands before handling things, just rinse well with water. Add your substrate, I lightly rinsed mine as there are beneficial bacteria living inside the substrate, pour it in. Make sure it's at least 2" of floor. Your water will be cloudy if you bought the substrate I listed, don't worry as it will settle after an hour and be clear.
     
• 3. Fill water half way, use a small plate and pour the water on top of that to avoid the substrate being pushed around. NEVER use hot water! If you're using tap water be sure to always use cold water. It's also recommended to purchase "RO water" (Reverse Osmosis Water) as some times your tap water can be too "hard". The best thing to do is use the test kit on tap water and go from there. If the kH/gH are very high 100+ you will need to use RO water. I like to place my plants and decor now while the tank is half full. Place in your thermometer, heater, sponge filter, etc. After that, continue to fill all the way to the top remembering to aim the stream on top the plate. Leave about a half to an inch from the top.
     
• 4. Take out plate, plug in filter, add in Seachem Prime and Seachem Stability. Please read the label for instructions and dosage according to your tank size. Since there is nothing inside you can add it after you've added the water to the tank. Moving forward, be sure to add the chemicals in the water bucket BEFORE pouring into the tank.
     
• 5. Turn on filter, wait for the water to settle and temperature to come up. They say shrimp can tolerate 52F to 86F but ideally room temperature water is best, this is where your water heater will come into play. Follow which ever cycling method you choose before purchasing your shrimp. This can take up to 6 weeks.
     
     After your tank has cycled
     
     
• 1. When adding your shrimp, there are many methods, the way I acclimate my shrimp is:
     
• 2. Put the shrimp in a 1 gallon tub using the water that they came in.
     
• 3. Drop in a tablespoon of the tank water, ONCE every 2 minutes.
     
• 4. After the water has reached 1/3 old water, 2/3rd new water, your shrimp are ready to be placed into your tank.
     
     Please don't skip the important step of acclimating your shrimp! They are very sensitive to water changes and this ensures that they will survive.
     
     Here are my water parameters, people have all kinds of ranges but this is what works for me:
     
     
• kH: 60 / gH: 40 / pH: 7.0 / NO2: 0 / NO3: 20 / Ammonia: 0 / Temperature: 72F
  
  I hope this helps... again, I was in your shoes not too long ago, it was really overwhelming. But after a lot of research I think my tank is in a good place :). Other users, if there's anything in my list that seems incorrect please let me know!

For me the biggest things I learned were how much attention they need (a lot) and how much time I would spend cleaning (a lot!).

Overall:

1. Their personalities are pretty set. You can definitely tame a shy or skittish rat to be tame and affectionate, but it will always be quicker and easier to tame a rat that is just naturally confident and brave. I don't think that getting them at a young age or even breeder vs "feeder rat" really makes that much of a difference - I had a rat that I got at 6 weeks old who was very timid, and he never got to the cuddly point that my other boy did, who was 3 months old when I got him. It's just his personality to be more on the go and not want to sit and cuddle. So for a new owner I would say go out of your way to pick the rat that comes up to you curiously, or seems generally more outgoing. It will make things a lot easier!
   
2. It can take 2 weeks to a month to get them tame to the point of enjoying being held, coming when they're called, easy to pick up and carry around, etc. I worked with mine once or twice a day in the play pen for about 2 weeks before they let me pick up and hold them quietly, and then it took a couple more weeks to really tame down.
   
3. If you never take them out of the cage, and/or if you never try to hold and pet them, they will never enjoy coming out and being held/petted! You have to get them out into a playpen, feed lots and lots of treats (think 12 tiny treats per session) and actually hold them a little at a time, many times in a session, even if it seems like they hate it. They will get used to it!
   
4. They need a LOT of attention. I think rats are an awesome pet for someone who has about an hour to two hours of free time per day, every day, no matter what! They will be "OK" for an evening if you go out or something, but they really come to expect attention at certain times and know your routine, and will really guilt you if you don't get them out to play!
   
5. Same idea, there is a lot of cleaning involved, and it takes time. I would say about 30 minutes of cleaning every other day (like changing out fleece or any sleeping blankets they've peed on, and changing out litter boxes), and then about an hour of a full cleaning once a week (water/vinegar and hot soapy water for anything plastic, changing bedding or fleece, washing cloth). It doesn't seem to matter fleece vs bedding - it's just a lot. That is on top of the hour or so you should spend playing with them. Rats themselves are clean BUT they really make a mess of their cage, haha.
   
6. It costs a lot. I know there are ways of saving money but I just end up spending a lot on them with things like their playpen, different toys, bedding, etc. The cage alone will be $100, then there might be vet bills.
   
7. They will really, really love you! The more time you spend with them, the more they bond with you. Even if your rats are on the go types that don't sit and cuddle, they still really show affection in their own way and truly love you like you're another rat. It's way more than hamsters or mice. Owning rats is as much work and also reward as a dog or cat.
   
   If you have the time and energy for them, they are really fabulous, sweet, and hilarious pets. I would say go visit someone who has them, and see what it's like (and also make sure you're not allergic!).

Sorry about your dog.

Bedding: The purpose of some sort of bedding material is to absorb urine and odors and to minimize your pets' contact with their own waste. Some people use fabric to cover the levels and/or floor of their cage. The benefits of this is it's reusable and there's less waste but fabric is crap at controlling odors so needs to be washed very regularly (every few days) and some rats destroy it pretty quickly. Loose substrates are generally better at absorbing urine and odors/ammonia but can be a little messier and create more waste. Personally, I use a combination of a loose substrate (aspen shavings) on the floor of the cage and fleece mats with an absorbent inner layer on the platforms of the cage.

There are lots of loose substrate bedding options but the main things you want to look for are good absorbency, good odor/ammonia control, as little dust as possible, fragrance free, and low cost. Nothing gets 10s across the board so sometimes it just takes some experimentation to figure out what works best for you, your rats, their cage, and your lifestyle. Some good options I've used include fragrance free paper pellet litter (bags made for cats are sometimes cheaper), "crumbled" paper litter, soft paper substrates like Carefresh or Clean & Cozy, and aspen or kiln-dried pine shaving. You can also just cover the floor with sheets of paper and they'll have a blast shredding it up and carrying it all over the cage. Blank newsprint is pretty cheap at the hardware store and you wouldn't have to worry about inks. Paper would get gross quickly and would need to be changed very often.

Food: The most widely available recommended pellet food is Oxbow. You can get it at PetSmart stores but it's cheaper on Amazon or Chewy. Oxbow is generally free fed (always available) but it's good to supplement it with fresh veggies and/or a little bit of a grain/seed mix every few days. Other recommended pellet options are Envigo Teklad (also available on Amazon - 2014 formula for adult rats and 2018 formula for juveniles) and Mazuri. For nutritional balance reasons, you might want to make sure that 70-80% of their diet is the pellet and 20-25% is supplemental. This equals out to only about 4 to 7 grams of supplemental stuff daily, per rat.

Cage Accessories: For the most part, you can fill the cage with literal garbage and your rats will be happy. You don't really need to spend any money to make a cage fun for your rats. I try my best to avoid purchasing overpriced pet-store items. You can use cardboard boxes from the recycle bin, ropes and small baskets and bins from the basement, thrift shop, or dollar store, scraps cut from old clothes strung up with paper clips as make-shift hammocks, etc. The hardware store is also a good place to find fun cage items. A cluttered cage is a good cage. I like to have as many hammocks and hides as I have rats so they can all have their own spaces if they want to be alone. It's good to have at least a couple sets of hammocks because they need to be washed frequently. I wash all fabric cage items 2 to 3 times a week. Cardboard and paper items get tossed weekly because they also start to smell awful.

While you don't need to spend any money on accessories, there are some things that are worth their weight in gold. Space Pods are wonderful. I drill a hole in the bottom of them so pee drains out. Lava ledges are good for keeping nails trim and when strategically placed, they can be used instead of those stupid ramps. I love bendy rope perches, they're great for creating "steps" to higher hammocks and stuff.

congratz !! :D

Our siberian favorite toy is this one
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B075SZCLZR/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

He absolutely LOVES it, he hides, he plays, he plots against us in there, the wrinkly sound make it super fun for him, and it's extremely robust couldn't find a single tear even with him putting is claw through it.

for a cat tree, it's better that you invest more money in a basic one, than paying for a cheap huge tree, siberian are BIG cats that LOVES to climb and jump and he will throw himself on it and you don't want an accident happening. Molyy and friends does amazing tree, we bought this one
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000OSIJA6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It think he would have love one that his higher than this one but they get pricier, He's spending 80% of his time on it. the top bunk is his bed, he love to run and jump through the loop, playing pick a boo in there, and it comes with the scratching post that is high enough for him to stretch plainly.

this brush is a must have, not a choice YOU NEED IT, Siberian need good brushing often to avoid painful matted fur, get him use to being brush EVERYWHERE very young (especially the butt, and under his "armpits")
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0040QS3PO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Best laser toy ever. you don't have to keep your finger on the button for it to work, it's super bright, and the cat will recognized the toy when he sees it before of it's bright color. we just need to say " Gaspachio wanna play ?" and show him the paws and he starts puring and getting ready to hunt. Make sure to train him to play with laser when he's young by rewarding it at the end of a session with a treat and making him stop on toy (so he has the feeling for catching something) after a few month he will have understand that the red dot CANNOT be catch, it's just fun to run after, and you won't have any mental issue with the cat.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B074Q2YK3L/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This window bed is super strong, at first we though he didn't like it because we didn't saw him on it, then we realized he's always on it during the day when we're not home. And when we start pulling the curtain over it he starts going even more often since it's an "hidden place"
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B005AUM8U0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Absolutely NEVER feed you cat with crap cheap brand, if you can afford a 1k cat you can afford good food and treat for it. and brush his teeth regularly.

Also, plenty of soft hugs <3

1. Do they NEED it? Eh, maybe not. Will they probably want it at some point, I wouldn't be surprised! You're fine for now, but in the long term, I'd recommend if you can, 1) the sputnick/space pod - fairly inexpensive and beloved by rats EVERYWHERE; and 2) making some more hammocks. It sounds like you're planning on using fleece, and it's really easy to make no-sew hammocks. Since the bra-mock is gonna get peed (they will all get peed on), you'll probably want a few more so that you can rotate them in and out.
   
   
2. Rats are pretty good about monitoring their own eating habits. They also like to stash it away, so it can be difficult always to tell exactly how much they've eaten vs hidden. My 2 girls get a ~full bowl (which is a heaping 1/4 cup scoop that I use for their food) between the two of them daily. Some days they finish it all, some days theres a bit left. Often I'll dump some food out when I empty their box (cause they like to eat where they poop). Also, its too many treats if they either start to gain weight or if they eat less of their food because they are full/to accustomed to treats and thus loose nutrition. Overall, you want to use moderation. Some treats you can be more free with than others; baby puffs are popular as training treats because I guess they are low-calorie (and presumably low in sugar) so you can give a fair amount of them. I've never used them, but I've read it several times.
   
   
3. Binder clips are popular across the board, but the answer to this question will depend a bit on what kind of cage you're using.
   
   
4. I would say, regardless of the amount of time that has passed, follow their lead. If on day 1, they seem interested in you and will sniff your hand or even climb onto it, full steam ahead! And if you have a convenient place to let them run where you can be sure they won't get away, go for it. But if say on day 4, they're still don't seem to want to take a treat from you, just keep at it and you can look up some stuff about trust training timid rats, and spend a lot of time around them/their cage regardless. Since they are coming from the breeder as you said, they are probably going to be a bit more similar to the first example than the second. Either way, go slow, use food to get to their hearts, and don't be discouraged.
   
   
5. As long as they get their out time and have toys/things to explore and play with wherever they get it, they should be fine without free run of a room. I would mainly say that whatever room they are in, you'll want "rat proofed" to the degree that in the event someone escapes from the bed (or wherever), there isn't anywhere they could get to that would be an instance emergency (like an open door to the rest of the apartment or a hole in the floor to a crawl space, etc).
   
   
6. Well, for starters, they likely wouldn't forget you any more from being handled by another individual in your absence than they would without the handling. That being said, they also won't forget you over that time span regardless of being handled or not. Overall, they will be much happier the more they are handled so that is the goal! That's always the goal.
   
   
7. Play it by ear. I've never had boys, only girls, who still pee everywhere but not quite as much. If it seems smelly, try cleaning it off and if it still seems smelly, toss it. It's possible they just won't ever pee on it, or its possible it will be their favorite thing to pee on and have to be replaced constantly.
   
   
8. For the same reason you are asking about changing out the wooden toys, I would avoid having a permanent wooden fixture of any kind in the cage. At least not one that you aren't okay with tossing after some period of time. For something in the cage, I'd recommend sticking with a plastic container or cardboard that will get thrown away when the cage gets cleaned. It's not too uncommon for people to make dig boxes with shredded paper or cardboard or fleece for their rats, which is basically what this sounds like. If you like the wooden box you are planning on using, I'd say save it for out time and do that same thing. Or fill it with like... misc wooden blocks or whicker balls or some people use pingpong balls (but they get chewed up), and have a little ball pit thing.
   
   Sorry for the length! I get a bit wordy with my answers!

Just gonna copy/paste a comment I recently made on a similar subject, with unnecessary parts edited out and a few things added:

I would suggest getting at least one friend for her but preferably 2. And you'll want to get rats of the same gender, unless you want lots of babies. Having 3 rats is very helpful if something happens and you lose a rat. It helps the remaining rats if they can cope with the loss of a buddy together and may lessen the chances of them getting overly depressed. And in most situations, the more rats you have, the happier they will be. They're highly social and tend to like having a bigger family.

If you're getting food at the store, stay away from seed mix type foods such as this. It's not healthy for them, and the dried corn in it can cause liver cancer. I'd recommend a block/kibble type rat food such as Oxbow. You can even buy the adult formula of Oxbow and just supplement with extra protein once or twice a week until around 6 months old; and, in general, most rats don't seem to like the Garden Select or the young rat variety, so keep that in mind too. You'll want to give them fresh veggies regularly and fruits as a treat (as too much fruit can cause runny poops.) I like referring to this guide when introducing new foods as some foods are very dangerous for rats, and some are only dangerous for a specific gender.

When getting a cage (NOT an aquarium) make sure you get 1/2" bar spacing to avoid escapes. And you can use this handy cage calculator to make sure your cage will be big enough. Some cages sold as rat cages are not actually big enough for adults to comfortably live and stretch out in. If you use a loose substrate bedding, stay away from cedar or pine (unless it's kiln dried pine) though kiln dried aspen tends to be the most recommended wood shaving bedding. Some people use recycled paper bedding, though it isn't as good at absorbing smells as the aspen or pine. If you use fleece, you'll need to change it more frequently than a loose substrate but it's much less messy, though terrible for controlling odor. I personally do a mix of both, loose bedding in the bottom of the cage and fleece lining the rest of the shelves.

You'll also want to consider getting a litter pan to litter train them, and use a different type of litter in the pan so they associate it with a bathroom area. I personally like using critter litter by Kaytee. Also, find a smooth flat rock to keep in the litter pan. For some reason rats like peeing on rocks.

You'll want to make sure to have enough hides, hammocks, etc for each rat to have their own if they aren't feeling like being cuddled up or just need a break from the other rats. Space pods are highly loved by most rats. I have 2 in my cage, one on each level. Cardboard boxes are a big hit as well. I buy cheap boxes of Kleenex and just shove the whole thing in the cage (after removing the plastic stuff around the opening.) They love "decorating" their cage with it, and they can use the box as another hide when they're done. PVC is also a big hit with a lot of rats. You can make little tunnels for them to hide or play in and some people even drill holes in them (for ventilation and) to suspend them from the roof of the cage to help change it up a little.

Also, you'll want to spot clean/pick up stray poops throughout the week until cage cleaning day comes. After the cage is clean (leaving 1-2 "dirty" things in their cage to prevent over cleaning, thus leading to over marking after you spent all that time cleaning) I suggest completely rearranging their cage each time. It keeps their minds stimulated and makes them highly interested in exploring their "new" home week after week. It's especially fun for them if you hide treats throughout the cage for them to find. For a cleaner, I use a vinegar/water (25% vinegar, 75% water) solution as it disinfects and deodorizes very well and the rats aren't sensitive to it like some cage cleaners. I also put about half a cup in with their laundry when I wash it. You'll want to use free and clear detergent (no dyes/perfumes) like this. I don't use fabric softeners or dryer sheets either.

Lastly, you'll want to keep an emergency vet budget set aside. Rats don't need routine visits like a dog necessarily, but there is a high chance your rats will need to go to the vet at some point during their lives. They have a very delicate immune system and URIs are very common, as well as myco flareups, as almost all rats carry myco. You can read the article linked in the sidebar for more info on that. And in my experience, it tends to be emergency/short notice needs for the vet. Rats are prey animals and will hide an illness until they are no longer capable of hiding it, and by then they are usually pretty sick. Prices vary from area to area, but where I am, I expect to spend around $60-90 for a visit, including medications; from what I've read on here though, I'm on the lower end of the price range and some people easily spend double that.

Sorry this got a lot longer than I had expected it to, and if you read it all, thank you. If you have any questions, this sub is a great place and has a lot of great and very helpful people here. Good luck with your future babies.

Under 100 bucks will be a little tricky, I think I can get close but having to buy a lighting fixture/hood will end up pushing it over.

• 20 gallong Long aquarium (30 x 12 footprint) $32.99 @ petsmart(you might be able to find this cheaper with a glass top at a LFS where dollar per gallon on these smaller tanks is a little more common.
  
  Second Option 29 gallon - has the same dimensions and usually just a little more expensive--however, you might be able to find an all-in-one kit with a hood, heater, and HOB filter for about 100 bucks...if so, that's the way to go for sure.
  
  
• Marineland LED full hood 30"x12" $35.99 @ Amazon with free shipping.
  
  2nd Option - Nothing cheaper right now.
  
  
• Filter: Aqueon 50 $23.10 @ Amazon This gets even cheaper if you make your own filter media instead of using their cartridges. Aqueon are decent little filters, and for that price and GPH you'll have a tough time beating it.
  
  2nd option: Penguin 200 $25.49 with free shipping @ Amazon The penguin has more media options and more media volume even not counting the biowheel. But it is a much noisier filter. My true preference would be an Aquaclear 50, but they're just not on sale right now and we're on a budget.
  
  
• Heater: Aquatop 100W for $14.99 @ Amazon . Aquatop is a bargain brand so this is a bargain product. But it's cheap and comes with free shipping.
  
  2nd Option - eheim jager 75W heater $24.27 @ Amazon eheim's last and are very reliable. I have a pair that are over 6 years old and still work great. Spending the extra money here would be worth it if you ever want to perhaps use the tank for something else down the road.
  
  
• Thermometer - Going as cheap as possible here, and I always like the accuracy of an analog thermometer. $3.92 with free shipping at Amazon
  
  2nd Option - nothing cheaper that's anywhere near as close in the reliability/accuracy department.
  
  So, that puts my 1st option total @ $110.99 with shipping but without any applicable sales tax for a new set up. Now you can really find something on craigslist.org for cheaper often times, so it might be worth it to look around there--but a lot of that stuff i found is on sale currently so if you wait too long it would be gone.
  
  Now for the fish.
  
  
• I would go with a pair of convict cichlids. They will breed every 2-3 weeks and if there's nothing else in the tank they can put out 100+ fry. Now with this set up they're never going to get very big without a grow out tank, but they will never eat their babies and they're pretty cool fish in their own right. They are also hearty so if you take care of the tank they'll live for several years breeding like bunnies.
  
  2nd option - Guppy tank with 2-3 males and 12-14 females. They will match the convicts for numbers and like the convicts they are very low in Thiaminase (which is super important for predator fish). They are relatively hardy but I find them to be super boring. They will also eat the heck out of their own babies. But on the plus side they're a bit dummer and slower swimmers than the convicts and with several harems you'll have a nicer sizing pattern on the fry that do survive.
  
  Which ever way you go make sure to put a sponge or some panty hose over your filter intake to keep from fry getting sucked up. Also, always gut load with a good quality food right before feeding. Something like New Life Spectrum Cichlid Formula for the convicts. This will make sure the Largemouth and Oscar are getting the optimum nutrition from the live food.
  
  Now that it's all said, you can actually breed your own earthworms for about 10 bucks in materials plus compost [Here's how to do that](
  http://www.herper.com/earthworms/earthworms-culture.html) and your fish will appreciate the live food variety.
  Hope this helped!

Hi there. Congratulations on your new boys! I love Rex rats! I've been a ratty mom for over 12 years. I currently have 3 males, all dumbos, one of which is a Rex. The best advice I can give is to make sure to socialize your new babies and let them get used to you, your environment, as well as each other. (I'm glad to hear you got more than one!) Pouches are a great start for that, so you are definitely on the right track. I love playing around and interacting with my boys, but I also make sure to sit back and let them explore on their own, too.

Having a good cage is crucial. I recently got space pods and they love them! Having it be plastic instead of fabric cuts down on smell, too. I always make sure they have a bunch of things to chew on and play with. Make sure they have good bedding as well. I use recycled newspaper and crinkle paper.

Diet plays a big role. I feed my guys mostly Mazuri blocks and Oxbow with some vegetables (they love broccoli and frozen peas). I try to stay cognizant of treats, since they're mostly sugar and fat. (Males are prone to weight gain, so you gotta watch out.) Fruits work really well as a treat for training.

If you have any questions as you guys get adjusted, feel free to PM me.

(Also, sorry all the hyperlinks are to Amazon haha. It's what Google pulls up.)

Congratulations again :)

Your house is probably already full of rat toys galore!
Wood chews are really popular and help with dental care. You can get them in the small animal and/or bird section. I bought some beads at Amazon for $3 and my girls love to chew them up. They sell them in fun shapes and sizes--stuff like letter blocks or vegetables. So cute to see a rat running around with a wood chew in her mouth, especially when it's shaped like a stalk of broccoli. Give your girl(s) at least a couple of places to hide and nap! Check the pet store for plastic igloos (get the medium-sized one, or if you get a bigger cage, get the guinea pig one) or even a space pod to hang from the cage ceiling. You can also make fabric hammocks for them to lie in. It's adorable!!!

In addition to lab blocks for feeding (the Kaytee is in my opinion not good; I'd feed until it runs out, then switch to Oxbow), be sure to supplement your girl's diet with fresh veggies! Here is a good list of safe foods. Give fatty foods like nuts in moderation. Dark, leafy greens are a must! At first, your little one will be wary of new stuff, so be persistent in presenting it to her. She'll soon be eating everything in sight. :) Oh! Rarely, as in maaaybe once a month, you can give your rats a cooked chicken bone. (Assuming you eat meat; sorry for assuming!) They love it and it is good for their little teeth.

Was your girl alone in the cage at the pet store, or did she have some siblings with her? If you decide to bring another girl home, have another cage ready. The one you have is pretty small! If you're going to upgrade, this one is a good starter house for two rats. While you're going through the introductions for the new girl and the old girl, keep them separate. You can keep your little cage as a hospital cage once the girls are integrated, or use it as a travel cage for vet visits. If you have a bigger budget and space for a bigger cage, you can look for Critter Nation (if you're in the U.S.) or Savic Suite (outside U.S.) Martin's cages are great too. I got my Critter Nation from Craigslist for very cheap, so look out for deals secondhand. Just sterilize the cages you buy secondhand with a bleach/water solution and rinse it thoroughly, and you should be good. :)

Phew! Sorry if that's a lot of information! To answer your question, you got a fancy rat. Her coloring is called "black hooded." She's beautiful! Get her a sister and you'll have two beautiful little brats to spoil. Good luck. :D

Most people recommend ball pythons, cornsnakes and kingsnakes (and those all are good choices), however it's ultimately up to you! For example, I got a red tail boa constrictor as my first snake and I've only seen one person recommend them as beginner snakes. And honestly, I was glad I got my boa, he's such a sweetheart and his care is very similar to a ball pythons, just on a bigger scale! Plus he's a reptilian garbage disposal, so I don't have to worry about him skipping meals.

I've also seen breeders recommend ratsnakes and gopher/bullsnakes because their husbandry is very easy and they're typically very good eaters. While they're known to be a little temperamental, regular handling will calm them down pretty quickly. I've also seen Kenyan sand boas and children's pythons reccomended, plus they usually don't get too big, and all the snakes I've mentioned come in various morphs so it would be fairly easy to find one thats to your liking!

Snake Discovery, Clint's Reptiles and Josser's Jungle are a very good start! They upload educational videos and they're extremely helpful with information and helping you decide what snake is good for you.

As for getting the actual snake, never buy from large chain pet stores. Always try to get them from a reliable breeder, and the best way to do that is reptile expos! You'll be able to find a bunch of different morphs of various species and you can get supplies and food for pretty cheap.

Another thing to keep in mind is the lifespan and the supplies they need. Bigger snakes need bigger terrariums which cost more, need bigger meals, etc. You will also need a heat mat or heat tape that's connected to a thermostat regardless of species. snakes are kinda dumb and will continue to sit on a warm spot even if it burns them, so thermostats are a must! I use this thermostat for all 3 of my snakes and it works great!

And don't forget to do lot's of research! Look into the snake species itself, it's temperature and humidity requirements, the tank/tub size, and whether or not there are any breeders or expos nearby! Anyway, I hope this helped in some way, and good luck!!

Hey Amelia, I'm Tina welcome to raoa! I was a Nanny for a few years as well and miss it, but my family moved across country! How old are the children you take care of? Cool intro and contest idea- you've already hopped into a great start in the community!

Here are 5 things that would greatly help me:

1- LED dog collar. My boyfriend and I take our dogs down to the field and let them run away, but we lose them sometimes cause they get excited hearing a bird. We have one collar already but they never run in the same direction, so having another would be great.

2- Dog Car Seatbelt clip. Another item for my rambunctious pups who enjoy car rides like it's no one's business. Sometimes they get in our face or want to be on our lap and it's distracting and I'm afraid of it causing an accident but there's currently no way to keep them secluded to the back.

3- This puzzle book. I love mazes, sudoku, and puzzles to keep my brain working haha

4- Pop Socket for my phone. I'm quite clumsy and drop my phone pretty often. Plus, it's mermaid!

5- Sloth Skirt. I love wearing skirts and feeling pretty, plus it's got sloths all over it!




I'm gonna nominate /u/LaLocaChristina because she's been here and always contributes positivity and is very generous when gifting. She's also taking a big leap and moving so this could lift her spirits if she needs it because I'm pretty sure everyone could agree that moving can be stressful!

Hi there! My dog has a very similar attitude regarding car rides- she thinks they’re sketchy at best. At this point, we’ve done a 9 hour car ride together, and a week from today we’ll start a cross country move that’ll total around 35 hours of driving. Here are my tips!

• Does she get carsick? That’s the reason my dog isn’t a huge fan of cars, she gets nauseous even on the shortest trip. Benadryl certainly does help, just make sure you’re dosing correctly! It also makes her sleepy, which is a bonus. On our last car trip she slept for 4 hours straight, and she only got sick in the last 5 minutes of the trip because we didn’t keep up with the Benadryl. Some people on here are super uncomfortable with giving dogs any OTC medicine, but I’ve been told by multiple vets and our dog trainer that Benadryl is safe. I’m also pregnant and I feel like if it’s gentle enough for me to have, it’s probably okay for her, lol.
  
  
• If she does get carsick but it can be under control with Benadryl, I’d offer high-value, long lasting chews or filled Kongs. Ours loves tracheas and gets the occasional no-hide, which is a rawhide alternative. She also super loves frozen Kongs filled with cream cheese and pumpkin, or anything with hard boiled eggs- they may make your car a little smelly but they’ll keep her occupied.
  
  
• If you can look at your route ahead of time and plan a stop in the middle somewhere where your dog can run, either somewhere like a dog park or a rest stop (you can use a long-line leash and a harness!), that could be beneficial for her too! If you don’t plan on making this sort of stop that’s okay, too. One or two potty stops should be more than enough, and really since she’s fully grown she could last that long without a potty stop.
  
  
• Regarding environmental conditions, I have two tips! The first is to choose one of two things: a soft crate or a harness with a doggy seatbelt. If your dog is small enough, I’d recommend a soft crate. This will keep the pup contained and not able to climb all over you. My dog is a very tall 55 pounds, and my car is way too small for that size of soft crate, so she has a harness that she wears in the car (with the ring on the back) and we bought these seatbelts from amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Adjustable-Vehicle-Seatbelt-Harness/dp/B014W40TSW/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1510160438&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=dog+seat+belt&psc=1). My only complaint with them is that once, she stepped on the part of the car that the seatbelt clips into and was able to get out, but I just reached back and clipped her in.
  
  
• I would also suggest, no matter whether you use the soft crate or harness, to lay down a blanket or some towels that smell like home. These will serve a dual purpose of comforting your dog as well as making for easy clean up in the event of barf.
  
  I hope this helps!! If you have any questions or need clarification let me know!

I have a Golden Retriever puppy, Summit (8 months old tomorrow, he came home at 8 weeks old) and an indoor-only cat, Sprocket (1 year old). The big thing is to be patient and monitor all interactions.

Our cat is very tolerant and go-with-the-flow. He has never hissed or clawed at the dog. Thee was one time the dog did get too rough with him, and the cat meowed loudly for help, but never fought back (which in a way, makes things harder for our situation). Our dog is extremely playful and although he doesn't mean to harm that cat and just wants to play, he doesn't understand that the cat is too little, is not a dog, and cannot be a wrestling buddy.

Tips

• Start by sequestering them in separate parts of the house/apartment. Let them get used to each other's smells. Since we live in a small apartment, we couldn't exactly close them completely out of certain rooms, but if you can, this can be a good step.
  
• Invest in an exercise pen for the dog. Let them sniff each other through the pen. This allows them to see and smell each other without physically interacting with each other. (It's also extremely useful for keeping the dog and your home safe when you can't 100% of your attention to the dog).
  
• Until you begin to trust the dog, make sure she is leashed for all interactions. We still only let them interact when Summit is leashed because he still doesn't understand that he's bigger than the cat and could potentially hurt him. Reward both animals for reacting calm around each other. Initially, reward the dog of nicely investigating the cat as well. Be ready to separate them if one of the animals gets overexcited, or if the interaction is becoming dangerous for one of the pets.
  
• Create a safe space for your cat. Shelves and high-up places for her to go to escape the dog. Maybe even invest in a baby gate similar to this one so that the cat can access a room that the dog can't (note that the dog will have to grow a bit before the size of the door will prevent her from entering the room).
  
  Additional Tips for living with a puppy and a cat
  
  
• Contain the cat's supplies. Find a way to cover the litter box or place it in a room that the dog can't get to. Move the food to a place where the dog can't get it as well (we put Sprocket's food bowls on some shelves that the dog can't reach).
  
• Many Golden puppies will eat anything that can fit in their mouths. This can cause fatal bowel obstructions. Put away all small cat toys and keep them in a place where the dog can't get it. Also, if your cat enjoys toys, invest in some larger ones that the dog cannot easily swallow such as the [Kong Kickeroo](https://www.amazon.com/KONG-Moppy-Kickeroo-Catnip-Colors/dp/B0037PNC1O/ref=sr_1_7?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1488061069&sr=1-7&keywords=kong+kickeroo+cat+toy0, https://www.amazon.com/Bergan-Turbo-Scratcher-Cat-Toy/dp/B000IYSAIW/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1488061298&sr=1-4&keywords=cat+ball+track+toy, and the ball-track type toys.
  

Hi TurbinePoweredVagina, sorry to hear about your kitty. I hope some of this information will be able to help!

First off, good on you for introducing wet food back into his diet! I also suspect that the change to all dry is triggering these blockages. The number one issue concerning cats with urinary crystals water consumption. Cats naturally have a very low thirst drive (as they get virtually all water from their prey, which is ~70% water), and often will not drink until extremely dehydrated. So a transition from a primarily wet diet (70-80% moisture) to a primarily dry diet (~10%) moisture would undoubtedly cause your kitty to consume less water. In essence, a uretic dry food isn't going to do much more for your kitty than if he were eating a generic dry food, as he is likely chronically dehydrated.

When looking for a canned food for your cats (and this applies to all cats, including healthy ones!), look out for a two important things:

• actual named protein source first and second on list of ingredients ("chicken" or "turkey" as opposed to "meat by-product")
  
• free of grains (rice, corn, wheat, etc)
  
  Cats are by design, obligate carnivores (teeth shape, short digestive tract to minimize bacteria in prey). They haven't lived with humans long enough to evolutionarily adapt to the consumption of high-carbohydrate diets, and thus, their bodies still lack the necessary enzymes to properly digest carbohydrates. Note that most dry foods are very high in carbs (30%+), due to the necessity of a starch to bond the kibble together. As a result, high-carb dry diets (upwards of 30% - 50% carbs) contribute to maldigestion, hairballs, obesity, kidney diseases, high blood sugar leading to feline diabetes, and chronic dehydration leading to urinary blockages.
  
  In terms of good common canned food brands, may I recommend Wellness (the 12.5 oz cans, look for the Grain Free yellow triangle) or EVO (13 oz cans)? The Wellness website often has promotions and will provide coupons for their products, and EVO offers a frequent buyers club, in which the 10th purchase is free. I find that buying the large cans in bulk (two boxes at a time) is enough to last my cat almost two months. They're pretty economical as the large cans (the EVO ones are $2.69 where I live, no doubt cheaper in the US) end up being around the same price if not cheaper than supermarket brands like Friskies or Fancy Feast, per gram. You should be able to find Wellness in big box pet stores like Petsmart and Petco, however EVO isn't as common and it might only be available in smaller or privately-run stores. If you're in a rush and need to get food fast, Fancy Feast actually isn't terrible; as their classic variety lacks grains and has named protein sources at the top of the ingredient list.
  
  As the main concern with a cat with urinary tract issues is water consumption, here are a couple things you can do to alleviate his condition:
  
  
• if your kitty is fascinated with running water, try getting him a pet fountain. The sound of running water encourages many cats to drink more.
  
• give him chicken broth, water from a tuna can, or a cat milk such as CatSip as treats
  
• add one or two tablespoons of water to his wet food each meal
  
  I leave you with some resources that you may find helpful:
  
  
• Feline Urinary Tract Health: Excellent feline nutrition website written by a veterinarian, very in-depth
  
• Feline-Nutrition.org: Library of interesting articles
  
• Forum for Cat Health/Nutrition: Knowledgeable people, can go to them for more advice
  
  tl;dr Cats naturally don't drink enough water so eating an all dry diet will cause dehydration and urinary blockages. Best solution is to switch to a primarily wet diet (grain free for optimum health), get a pet fountain, give tasty broth and lactose-free milk as treats, and add additional water to food during mealtimes.
  
  Hope this helped. Best of luck to you and your little guy!

I don't know if it's different in Hawaii, but in most states a 5 gallon tank is like $13, and a 10 gallon is the same price. Used 10 gallons tanks are typically $10 or less, and petco/petsmart both do a "dollar per gallon sale" pretty often where brand new 10 gallon tanks are $10.

If that's still a pinch, you can use a plastic bin that holds a simiilar amount of water for like $5 or less. It wont look as pretty but it will keep him healthy until a tank is affordable.

As for heaters, here's a really cheap one that I've used!

Filters can be really cheap as well, especially sponge filters. This one is only $3 and would be great in a betta tank. Since it's a sponge filter, you also need an air pump, but those are cheap too. This one is like $6, you could probably do some googling around and find even cheaper ones though. You'll also need some airline tubing, which is pretty cheap as well, here's some that is $3 and way more that you need.

I've had my share of money troubles, so I know a lot of ways to make keeping a fish healthy a lot cheaper. If you get the filter and heater I recommended, it'll only cost $20.84 (plus tax and maybe some shipping costs). And then the tank or plastic bucket/bin or something will be another ~$10. So that doesn't seem too unreasonable. If you can't afford that all at once, the bigger tank should be top priority, along with the filter. The heater is also very important, but less so than the filter and the bigger tank.

If you can't get ANYTHING at all yet, in the meantime you'll need to be doing daily water changes (at least 50% of the water or more) to keep the ammonia down and safe for him. Make sure you're only changing the water with new conditioned water, not tap water. The chlorine in tap water is toxic.

One last thing, check your local craigslist listings too! I know Hawaii tends to be a bit more expensive than around here, but sometimes you can find REALLY good deals on used fish stuff compared to buying it new. That's always a good option on a budget.

Hopefully this helped a little bit!

Congrats! I just got a pug puppy myself a few weeks ago. Wanted to share my experiences I've had so far.

What kind of bed should we get for a pug? I'm thinking about getting this bed in the Medium size. Is this too big for the dog?

My pug tends to like plush things, he's always making his way into my clothes/towels. I got him this one since he loves hiding under my couch, and he loves it.

Is this crate a good fit for the pug? I'm planning to get the 24"x18"x19" size.

Crate training is a god send, especially when it comes to potty training. If you have the time, I would invest in doing that. I have the same exact crate and it works for him. The crate should only be big enough for him to stand and turn around, if he's a bit smaller (younger), you can use the divider so the crate will grow with your pug.

Any suggestions on a leash (retractable, fixed or both?)

My pug isn't old enough to go on walks yet, he hasn't had all his shots so I wouldn't be able to tell you. As a previous dog owner, fixed leash is best until he's learned proper walking manners and then you can invest in a retractable.

What kind of toys would a pug enjoy? I was told we needed a chewing one and a tugging one!

My pug's favorite toy is this one.

Any recommendations for food or treats?

Like what people earlier said, low-calorie treats are good since pugs tend to gain weights easily. When training, I would recommend freeze dried liver treats... my pug loves them!! Food wise, I feed my pug Taste of the Wild puppy formula... them or Blue Buffalo are great bets for your pug.

Good luck!!

Declawing is the same as surgically removing the last bone from each of your fingertips. Learn to keep the cat's nails trimmed correctly. Too short and if a cat's not used to it, they can't walk, run, or jump without wobbling until they grow back.

Not all cats like scratching posts -- mine prefers cardboard, but not the 'on-edge' cardboard cat scratchers, so my dad helped me add a wooden 'tray' to the top of the post in which I place flat squares of cardboard cut from boxes. She scratches and sleeps there, and sometimes just perches there to watch out the window. Don't get a carpet-covered scratching post or pad unless you want to teach your cat that scratching carpet is a good idea. =P

I have a Booda Dome for a litter box -- she still tracks some litter. I don't think there's a system out there that will keep cats from tracking any. Some litters are better than others. Covered litter boxes are nice for the humans, but not all cats will adapt to the flaps. Some litters are lower 'dust' than others, and this is better for cats' lungs and humans' alike. =)

Not all cats will respond to catnip or all types of toys. My cat is indifferent to laser pointers, and only likes the actual fur-covered realistic mice. She doesn't care for bell toys, but those little plastic springs drive her nuts (when she's in the mood). Her favorite toy is a wooden wobble 'bead' in which you can place catnip. Also a Da Bird Feather Cat Toy which you can make flutter to sound like a real bird. I'd suggest the non-collapsible one, as I'd suspect my cat would pull that apart. =P

Talk to your vet about what food(s) are actually good for your cat. From my research, you want to avoid bone meal products or and 'meal' products as they include ground bone which is hard on your cat's kidneys. Also avoid grains. Turkey is better than chicken; not all fish are terrible, but you have to consider mercury levels. You should consider only feeding your cat wet food, but this is more expensive, and difficult to manage with hurried schedules. Mine loves kibble and hates having to give that up, so I leave that out all the time and supplement with a big scoop of wet food at night. (These are the best quality, least expensive per-serving foods I've found.) A 6-lb. bag of kibble seems to last my cat ~3 months. At four days (servings) per can, the 12-pack of 12.5 oz. cans last about 1.5 months. You'll need two snap-on plastic can lids. My cat adores salmon as you may see. =P

Not all cats will like all types of cat beds.

Mine LOVES water (she literally demands 'cat showers') and she likes to play with the dripping tub faucet, so next I'm going to get a cat drinking fountain. Cats in general prefer 'fresh' or moving water, so mine always wants clean water in her bowl every time.

Because no one cat will like every toy or bed or litter box, you may have to buy more than one. Talk to your vet about what types to try and how to encourage a cat to like what you buy. I put catnip on my cat's things -- that seems to have worked, but not all cats respond to catnip.

I'm kind of a new cat owner myself, but that said I remember looking for a cat pretty recently :)

Typically shorter hair cats shed less, but my domestic short-hair still sheds more then I expected. Regular grooming with a good brush (my Furminator is amazing) keeps my lap pretty much hair free after petting sessions.

I wouldn't worry too much about the washing thing. Any smell associated with having a cat around is typically coming from the litter box, not the cat, and that can be controlled to some degree by changing the litter more frequently and putting it in another room. Unless they get into something, his/her regular grooming should keep her pretty clean. My cat hates it, but do give her a bath every 3-4 weeks mostly because I love how soft shampoo makes her fur.

As long as you try to make your house a nice place for a cat to live (toys, scratching post, maybe even a cat tree) cats can do very well being inside only. Without toys and something to exercise their claws on they can terrorize your stuff and your furniture though so be careful.

There is some correlation between breeds and personalities, and I did a TON of research before I went out to look for a cat, but what it really comes down to is the individual animal you end up getting. If you are adopting from an animal shelter (they have lots of great animals at least here in the states) just talk to the people that work there. They typically love the animals a lot and working with them everyday gives them a lot of insight into each of their personalities. I went to the shelter trying to get a particular kitten I found on their website, but he wouldn't come out to see us and was all around pretty grumpy. I talked to the shelter workers and explained what I was looking for, they introduced me to Winkie, and wouldn't trade her back for anything :)

I recommend checking out Craigslist if you are interested in a bigger tank and are only put off by the price. Lots of people sell second hand stuff for cheap. I was looking earlier today and saw seventy gallon set up with a stand, filter, and lighting for under a hundred in the Inland Empire.

If you are going small with first use equipment, a 3g is suitable for a single Betta and a non fish companion such as a larger snail or a couple of smaller shrimp (Ghost Shrimp are common and work well, but Cherry Shrimp are prettier if you can find them). I use this tank for a Betta, a large snail, and half a dozen ghost shrimp. The design is quite nice and the included air pump, filter, and lighting is sufficient for a small Betta tank, though you still need to buy gravel and decorations.

You mentioned frogs in your initial post -- African Dwarf Frogs are compatible with a Betta tank, but it can be a pain to feed them because their vision is terrible and a Betta is likely to try eat their food before they find it. If you don't mind that, they are pretty neat.

Bettas are aggressive to their own so you can only keep one per community except for female sorority tanks with 4 or more females. Unfortunately the females have the shorter fins and are less attractive generally. Also you have to avoid placing any fish that a Betta can mistake for a rival in the tank (i.e. fish with bright colors or flowing fins). So it's usually best to stay with non dangerous invertebrate like shrimp and snails in small Betta tanks. If you go for a larger set-up where there is more room, you can get fish like Neon Tetras who may provoke a Betta but can easily run away with enough room (a properly equipped 10g can hold a Betta and a small school of six Neons if you are diligent with weekly maintenance). Proving ample cover in the tank is also useful.

If you stay with going small, a Betta is likely hardy enough to deal with the initial cycle of your tank if want to start right away, just make sure you are diligent with partial water changes every three days while you do the first cycle (I stress it would be safer to do a fishless cycle). These fish are able to put up with being trapped in the small cups at Petco and Petsmart after all, not that they should have to. I would recommend you leave it at just the Betta at first to keep the cycle easier - the toxins from cycling will affect small shrimp and snails faster than it will affect the Betta.

I live in SoCal and my water stays at 74 to 76 without heating (windows closed at night) which is fine for a Betta, so I don't think you need a heater unless it gets very cold in your area at night.

Fake plants are fine, but go for silk versus plastic if you can. It's usually not an issue but plastic can tear up a Betta's fins because they are so ornate. Real plants help with water quality though and usually look prettier. Simple plants like Anarcharis or Amazon Swords should be under $5 at Petco or Petsmart.

Creating bubbles requires an air pump at the very least. You can get one sufficient for up to a 10g for only $7-$10 at Petsmart or Amazon. Creating multiple smaller (prettier) bubbles will require fitting the end of the tubing with an air stone or other bubble accessory (a bubble wand creates a backdrop curtain of bubbles against a wall of the tank for instance). However, Bettas flowing fins make it hard for them to deal with lots of current in the water so if you get a smaller tank you will want to have the bubble output isolated to one area so there's room for the Betta to get away. The same problem exists with filters; in smaller tanks the output can be too strong for a Betta and you may have to construct a "baffle" to break the impact of the filter's current.

One option that works well for small Betta tanks is to use a sponge filter. Sponge filters are powered by the movement of water from your air pump; rising bubbles force water to move and that draws surrounding water through the sponge to replace the rising water. The sponge will mechanically filter your water, and the bacteria for the nitrogen cycle will colonize the sponge to do the biological filtration. Cheap sponge filters go for under five dollars on Amazon, like this one, and they can fulfill your bubbling and filtration at the same time.

If a fish is inactive, it usually means they don't have enough room to swim around and explore. 5 gallons is beautiful for a betta, you should do a 5 gallon with live plants, it's beautiful to look at! If you're concerned about price as well, here are some good options:

• Petco has 5 gallon Aqueon tanks for sale for ~$16 dollars.
  
• A good filter to use for these would be the Aqueon Quietflow Internal Filter AT10. I use one of these in a 1.5 gallon hospital tank, but the gph is good for up to 5 gallons. And it's only $15!
  
• You can use anything for a tank lid, but if cost is an issue, these guys work great, ~$7.
  
• A good, inexpensive heater is the Hydor 25 watt heater. ~15 bucks and from what I've heard (I'm getting one tomorrow for my new Spec V so I'll update if anything goes wrong) it's amazing.
  
• You can use any substrate that supports plant life, but I personally use Eco-Complete Plant Substrate. It's around $20 for a 20 lb. bag, so it's a pretty good deal as well.
  
• Plants in general can be quite inexpensive. If you just buy a couple of Anubias (the large variety) and some java ferns, maybe some Anacharis to float or bunch, you're looking at ~$34 dollars (give or take) for the entirety of your tank's plants.
  
  All in all, you're looking at ~$107 for a better tank for your fish, or ~$53 for just the basic set up (minus the live plants/plant supporting substrate). If you want lighting, I've heard that basic desk lamps like this one work great in lieu of expensive LED setups.
  
  OR
  
  You can buy a Fluval Spec V, they're on sale for $59.99 and come with a filter, lighting, lid, etc. All you would need is substrate and a heater.
  
  Let me know if you have any questions!

I figured since I've never taken my dog to a groomer I may be able to help with this. I'm not a professional groomer at all and the equipment is expensive but I figured that if it's going to cost me $80+ every time I take her to the groomer then the expensive equipment pays for itself in no time. The thing is, it does take forever and I personally recommend having a second person to help you only because I've never done it alone and can't imagine how long it would take if I did. The other thing too is that it will depend on your pup. Have you spent time getting them used to being handled or learning to basically hold still while you groom them? I knew this would be important for me and my pup was exposed to blow dryers, scissors, and the electric razor regularly from the moment I got her at 8 weeks. I have regularly trimmed her nails since she was a pup too so she is very used to being handled. I also taught her that if I'm working on her fur (when she was a young pup I would use a comb and brush regularly for this) she is to hold still. I didn't give her her first real hair cut until she was 8 months but she was already used to the strange sounds and holding still by that point. Before the 8 month mark I did trim her paws and around her eyes though.

If your pup isn't patient with you, its going to be a challenge and may not be worth it. Mine holds still for everything and it still takes my husband and I about 3 hours to get the job done. That said, here is my process.

The first time we groomed her it was awful and it took us almost 6 hours start to finish. This was because her fur had a lot of mats. If you can't get a regular comb through the fur then you aren't going to get the trimmers through either. So taking them to the groomer first is probably a good idea to stick with because they will handle the mats and such for you that first time. After that, you need to keep up with the grooming regularly (mine is groomed every 6 weeks) in order to make the process easier for yourself because the mats won't come back if the fur is trimmed regularly so it won't be an issue. The other issue we had the first time was that we tried to use these and they really didn't work out. They would snag in her fur, they also seemed to kinda push her fur down and out of the way so that it wouldn't get cut. It was just a huge waste of time trying to use them and now we just use this blade directly and it works perfectly.

So basically this is our process. We use a regular folding table because you do not want to do this on the floor. We did it on the floor the first time and it was awful on our backs so you want to be standing. One of us is always holding her so that she will not fall off of the table and we take turns trimming her fur going along with the grain. Be sure to check the trimmers temperature regularly because they can get hot. When they get hot, set them down and use the down time to trim the paws, face, tail, or ears with scissors or comb out any mats that may be in the way (we no longer have a problem with mats since she is groomed regularly). Once the blade is cool again continue trimming the entire body, taking breaks to cool down as needed and repeat the scissor trim every time the clipper needs to cool. We trim everything with the electric clippers except for around the eyes, ears, snout, tail, paw pads, and around the paws. Those extra areas are scissors only for us but you can do whatever you like. After her entire body is trimmed we switch to the shorter blade and trim her sanitary areas. We like the poo area to be extra short in order to avoid the dingleberries. You can also use the short blade to help with trimming around the paw pads. Finally, after everything is cut she gets a bath and blow dry.

It really is a lot of work but we both think that the 2-3 hours we spend doing it is worth it over the cost of a groomer. But it's definitely not for everyone and I also think it depends on the dog. If the dog won't cooperate it's going to make it that much more time consuming and difficult. Here is a list of all of the grooming tools I use:

• Andis Detachable Blade Clipper - For all of the trimming that doesn't use scissors.
  
• 3 3/4 Blade - For most of the body, switch to the short blade that comes with the clippers for the sanitary regions and around paw pads.
  
• Scissors - I use these for everything that needs to be trimmed with scissors. I like that they have the ball tip making them less pokey.
  
• Thinning Shears - Not required but they do help make her snout and tail less choppy looking after they've been cut with regular scissors.
  
• De-matting Comb - This has been a must for me! It is great at getting out those mats.
  
• Comb - I recommend having a regular comb. If this comb can't get through then your clippers won't either.
  
• Blow Dryer - I don't know if it's absolutely required to blow dry after baths but I do and I recommend getting a powerful one.
  
• Shower Hose - Not required but I use this for her in my shower and it has made bath time much easier.
  
  I think that covers everything, I may be forgetting something but that's all I've got for now. If you do decide to do it just make sure you have a decent time block for it since it may take a while. Good luck!
  
  Also, here are some pictures of my pup right after being groomed with the clipper size I've mentioned above.

Bringing a new puppy home to your cats is a lot easier than one might think!

We recently "fostered" a puppy for 3-4 days. Our three cats (aged 2-3 yrs) have NEVER been in contact with a dog. Ever.

We read a lot of stuff, and the best way to go about this is...

Gates. Invest in gates. We bought 3 of these which worked wonders. Obviously depending on the size of the puppy, he/she might be able to fit through the cat door at first. But our cats were more than comfortable jumping over them to escape from the puppy.

The most important thing is to give your cats space. They need 1-2 "safe" rooms. They need a place to escape from the puppy after their few minutes of contact with the new puppy. This is so important, because your home IS your cats home. It's where they feel safe!

Also, I don't know how your cats feel about squeaky toys... but our cats HATE the noise. Try to ease the puppy onto squeaky toys (if you want). The more squeaking the puppy does with the toys, the more the cats might become frightened of the puppy. Squeaky toys are so fun for dogs because the squeaker imitates an animal (they squeak it, it's like them 'squeaking' a small animal of sorts... hence they LOVE them). If the cats hear the noise and see the puppy shaking it around, they might become more stressed out.

Edit: Forgot some other important things...

Keep your cat's nails trimmed as well. There is guaranteed to be a LOT of swiping. The puppy will realize what's going on, and will want to play with the cat. So just be cautious!

Also, do NOT hold a cat and walk them towards the dog. Do not in ANY way force them to go near the dog. If one of the cats gets scared and comes towards you to be picked up, pick them up and walk them to one of the gated off rooms. (I don't know if other cats do this or not... but my cats are literally like dogs) You need to let your cats be the curious kitties that they are. No matter how long it takes, the kitties will learn to love and care for the puppy. Just remember... Some dogs remain "puppies" for over 2 years (personality-wise). So... prepare yourself!

Good luck, if you have any questions - feel free to ask!!

Edit #2: If you can deal with a puppy (~6 months or younger), I personally think it's the way to go. Even if you're looking to get a BIG (70+ lb) dog, they start out at about 20lbs at ~12 weeks. The smaller the dog is when you bring him/her home, the more relaxed your cats will be. If you bring home a HUGE dog (no matter how sweet), I think your cats might be more frightened. In my personal opinion it's best to get a puppy that the cats can get used to while they're relatively still small in size. Oh, and the puppy will get used to the cats. Puppies will generally NOT care. But when you're adopting, be sure that the foster parents/rescue lets you know how they are with kitties. Generally most puppies are fine with cats though!

Sorry for rambling... I keep thinking of more things!

Hmm odd that the water fizzed up. Did you rinse out the tank and rinse off the carbon and decorations before putting them in? The fact that you can smell chlorine is probably a good indicator you are best of to switch to a different water conditioner. (I like Seachem Prime.) Betta's like a low flow filter so just keep an eye on the filter or even switch to a sponge filter, or filter with a sponge over the intake, etc. Remeber to test your tap water too! I will link some products I have used or similar to those I have used in the past and had success with. (It may be a good idea to compare prices at your LFS store to Amazon, as I know my local Petsmart/Petco charges a fortune for a lot of aquarium items without much selection.)

API Freshwater Test Kit (Amazon wow $19.99 right now!) or at your LFS -Don't buy the test strips.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000255NCI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

SeaChem Prime ($4-$13 depending on size from Amazon or at your LFS. I swear by Prime.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002568S6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

A thermometer is a good idea to make sure your heater does not create a major issue. I do not use this exact one but figured I would add it to the list with a link ($2)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AQITK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Here I will just attach a link for a sponge filter I use in a 10 gallon (~$12). You will need some airline hosing and an air pump (tetra air pump works) if you get it, though I think it may be a little big for a 4 gallon. Also, an aquaclear is by far my favorite HOB filter if you go that route. Hopefully, your filter will workout!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXRDZPO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A316L92SV4DH0Y&psc=1
Tetra Air pump (~$7)
https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-77851-Whisper-Pump-10-Gallon/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1506349229&sr=1-1&keywords=tetra%2Bair%2Bpump&th=1
Aquaclear 20 (110V ~$25): This may be a little big for your 4 gallon, not sure as I have the Aquaclear 50 on my 30 gallon but I will add it along just in case.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FVG/ref=twister_B00MO35VD2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Airline Tubing (a few dollars, great to have)

Household Ammonia without surfactant (to do your fishless cycle) see link http://www.fishkeeping.co.uk/articles_51/fishless-cycling-article.htm

If you decide to go with silk aquarium plants, they have few fun options online. I would also suggest really plants as they will help reduce nitrates in the future. Some good low-tech plants would be anubias, or java fern (and some others). These can be tied to a rock or driftwood as don't need to be placed in the gravel/sand/soil itself. (A small clip-on LED for an aquarium should work
if you go this route.)
https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/plantsetc

I would provide food options, but r/bettafish has done a great job!
https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/food

Here are a few they have mentioned:

Ocean Nutrition Atison's Betta Food (~12)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/huc/view.html?ie=UTF8&newItems=C38WET63RPACA8%2C1

New Life Spectrum Betta Formula (~$10)
https://www.amazon.com/New-Life-Spectrum-Formula-Semi-Float/dp/B0038JTL1Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1506350883&sr=1-1&keywords=New+Life+Spectrum+Betta+Pellets

Hikari Betta Bio-Gold (~$13)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013EXTU7S/ref=twister_B00ZJZMXIS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

You should be able to find frozen daphnia, and frozen brine shrimp at Petco/Petsmart, and live brine shrimp at your LFS.

Will add on later! Happy cycling and keep us posted!

Congrats!! If you've never had a puppy before, my #1 recommendation is to get a trainer who will come to your house and work with you. They are more for you than for the dog. We did that and while it was really expensive, it was a blessing!

One thing our trainer told us is to let the puppy have access to only a little bit of the house at a time. A crate helps with that, but we didn't want it to feel like punishment and we wanted to be able to let him play around just as a dog in a controlled area. So we bought this playpen and zip tied it to the crate. You can also get linoleum to put underneath the playpen area, but make sure it's all one sheet (otherwise he'll chew on the ends). That also helps clean up potty mistakes!

Speaking of potty, we got a little bell to put on the door. We made him nudge it with his nose or paw (basically picked him up) every time we went out. Then when we finally let him explore more, he knew how to let us know he had to go. Of course, he also used it just as an excuse to go outside, so there's that.

You mentioned you're good to go on crates--did you get one that is life stages and lets you adjust how much room is available? Not a huge deal if not, but if you did, make sure you use it. They don't need a whole lot of room in the crate because they'll just pee on one end and sleep on the other.

For grooming, you don't really need a lot for a puppy (at least in our experience, and our older dog grew up to be a HUGE fluffball). You're more likely to hurt him and turn him off. For our grown up guys, we use a pin brush, a rake brush, a de-matting comb, grooming scissors, and dremmel. We also do your normal ear cleaning solution (we get ours from the vet, so I don't remember the brand offhand, it's the same thing as online) and shampoo. This is what we used when they were puppies. Another essential is puppy wipes for pesky danglers and muddy paws.

For a puppy, though, I really wouldn't use all that stuff. We used a little kong brush to get him used to a brush on his fur, but we didn't even use that until his fur was a little longer (but still too short to use the other brushes). The big thing with grooming a puppy is getting him used to you touching him EVERYWHERE. Stick your fingers in his ears and mouth, rub all over his paws, make him lay down on his back in your lap, etc. Definitely start on nails asap--even if you don't actually trim them, just holding the dremmel up to their nails and getting them used to it helps A LOT. Also the ear cleaner is an essential for golden puppies. Our trainer and vet both told us to drop it in their ears, let them shake their heads, then use q-tips in all the nooks and crannies.

Other essential products are LOTS of toys. You'll figure out real quick what your guy likes. Our first dog was more of a casual chewer, so fabric toys worked, but our second dog LOVES to eat fabric so we had to go with hard toys only. I highly recommend toys by West Paw! As you know, golden puppies will chew on LITERALLY EVERYTHING so you need a backup distractor toy at all times to replace the flavor of the minute. Keep in mind that if you give up trying to stop them chewing on something (say, for example, your computer chair), they will think it's ok to chew on that for the rest of their life. :(

We also got a slow-feeder bowl because our guys gobble down their food like it will disappear if they don't. And if your guy is really annoying with the water bowl (i.e., repeatedly knocking it over), don't worry too much--he'll grow out of it. I recommend keeping a towel under it until he learns all he wants to know about water!

Have fun with your little guy!!!! I'll add anything else I can think of later but feel free to ask if there's anything else you're curious about!

This is my advice from training lots of dogs and volunteering many years at the humane society (I am not a professional) - "don't work harder, work smarter." You are trying way too hard and you are burning yourself out. That does not bode well for you or your dog.

He is hyperactive and needs to get his energy out, but that said, no dog needs 4-5 hours of activity a day. That is just crazy. Instead of running or walking (save your knees, you need them!) with him, train him to do urban mushing. Since you says he pulls a lot, it would be dangerous for you to get a regular bike so I would recommend getting a cart.

Next, buy him a weighted pack. Throw this on him (and feel free to put your water bottles and snacks in there) while you are walking or for a couple of hours a day and it will slow him down and tire him out. It also makes him feel like he has a job to do. Since you think he may be a blue lacey, you really need to give him a job to do since he is a working dog. That also explains why he doesn't like doing tricks but likes finding stuff for you.

A couple of activities that are great for a working dog are agility and nose work. Sign up for your local agility and nose work class and the people there will give you great tips on how to tire your dog out without burning yourself out since they are actually experienced with training with working dogs. These kinds of jobs also train him to listen to your commands in a home setting.

Your dog is not a extremely dominant or submissive, he is what working dog trainers call a "soft" dog. This means they are very sensitive to loud, verbal yelling or negative energy. It is hard to see them react when you overcorrect but this also means that they are very trainable since they want to please you. Use a calm and low voice when you correct your dog.

For working from home, you have to learn to ignore him. I know it is heartbreaking to hear his whining but the truth of it is, if you give a dog an inch, they will take a mile. He knows how to push your buttons and he will so you have to harden yourself up not give in. Instead, get him a bunch of interactive toys
like this 1, [2] (https://www.amazon.com/Trixie-Mad-Scientist-Dogs-Level/dp/B003TOKTEG/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1469997634&sr=8-11&keywords=interactive+dog+toys), [3.] (https://www.amazon.com/Trixie-Gambling-Tower-Level-1/dp/B002XCTUIQ/ref=sr_1_38?ie=UTF8&qid=1469997634&sr=8-38&keywords=interactive+dog+toys) Fill them with his favorite treats and let him learn to amuse himself.

Lastly, this is probably the most important advice I have - get a gentle leader. It jerks their head to the side if they pull, so they stop pulling. It works amazingly for dogs who like to pull on their leash and do not respond to training. It seriously is a godsend for many of the dogs I walked in the shelter and could not control. It will save you many a more broken bones.

Feel free to message me if you need more help. I love helping people who love their dogs enough to not give up on them.

Whew lad. Sounds like you're in for a bad time but don't let me tell you how to live your life. I'll try to help you as much as possible, but I'll tell you right now that you're better off spending the money you'd be blowing on professional grade tools (which are absolutely necessary on a Newfie, those are one of the breeds you can't cheap out on, even for home grooms) on having a professional groom your dog instead. Newfies are a challenge even for professionals, taking 3+ hours to groom even with all the tools and experience available to them.

All that said, you're going to want to get a good shampoo and conditioner. I personally really like the Espree brand for shampoos, especially the hypo shampoo, because it's gentle on dog's skin and this particular brand still smells good. I recommend the Furminator conditioner. When you're washing your dog, you're going to want to really make sure you're working the shampoo and conditioner all the way down to the skin. Do shampoo first, rinse thoroughly, then conditioner, and rinse forever because holy hell it's gonna take a while to get all that out.

I'm just gonna tell you to not even bother with the hair dryer. That sounds like an exercise in futility. You're probably just going to want to wash your dog one day and then cut the hair the next when it's dry.

You can brush your dog's hair when it's wet, but I caution you to be extra gentle and to be sure to keep an eye on the skin to make sure it's not turning red. If it is, stop immediately (and possibly reconsider your decision to groom at home-- if the coat is in bad enough shape that you're irritating the skin by brushing, you probably need to see a professional). In addition to a slicker brush, undercoat rake, and greyhound comb, I would get one of [these] (https://smile.amazon.com/Matting-Dematting-Detangler-Grooming-Pet/dp/B0002ARR2W/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=safari+mat+remover+for+dogs&qid=1558802854&s=gateway&sprefix=Safari+mat&sr=8-3). It's great for breaking up mats and loosening undercoat, but a word of caution: they are extremely sharp and you will cut yourself badly on it if you're not careful. Fortunately they're designed such that you're much more likely to cut yourself than your dog.

Assuming that your dog is now thoroughly washed, dry, and brushed out, you're going to want to take your clippers and put an attachment comb on them. I prefer the Wahl stainless steel set. You can buy the combs individually, as well. You can put your comb on over the #10 blade that comes with the clippers, or a #15 or #30 for a cleaner cut. Then you just go to town. I very strongly recommend against going no shorter than 3/4" (that's an A comb in the Wahl set). Anything shorter than that is going to ruin your dog's coat. (So don't do a #10 blade either, for the love of god). Use a decent set of grooming scissors to clean up the clipper work when you're done.

I hope that helps. Good luck!

When I boarded my girl rats at Andy's all four of them fit fine in that cage. Some stuff I'd recommend are get tons of Lava ledges so they can have different heights in the cage. They have Big ones and Small ones. The small ones are only available online now I think. My girls love to hop from one to another plus it will help file down their nails and teeth. I currently have 10 big ones and 8 small ones in my 2 cages. A hammock is great but you can also put a space pod in there too as another place to sleep or chill. I just got one for my girls but I'm waiting for a hammock to be chewed down before putting it in there. I also got The Bandit Bridge and my girls love that too. I mainly use it as a safety net in case they fall off one of the ledges. I'd rather have them land on a soft thing than the igloo or hard cage bottom. Basically I'm cutting the fall in half.


Also if you still want to get another cage I recommend The Rat Manor I have it and my girls LOVE it! It's big enough for 4 rats so 3 would fit perfectly plus it has a metal bottom so they can't chew holes in it. Other than that you seem to be on the right track. Just spend a lot of time with them and get them used to you kinda like a re-introduction to humans and they should turn out fine. They may have been scared of the kids and all the noise but it sounds like they should perk up to you in no time after they get used to their new surroundings. Good luck and keep us posted!

You can also get that Tetra kit on Amazon, if you want, OP (same price, but maybe more convenient): http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-29095-Cube-Aquarium-3-Gallon/dp/B008CA7W7E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412106897&sr=8-1&keywords=tetra+3+gallon

And, I hate to be a total downer, but a heater and a thermometer are also really needed. Bettas like water between 78 and 82 degrees F. You can buy a cheapo heater, though, at least for now. I have these thermometers and they are good and cheap and work: http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Digital-Fish-Aquarium-Thermometer/dp/B00GR0LKN8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412106999&sr=8-1&keywords=digital+aquarium+thermometer

Also, I would super, super advise switching out that plastic plant with a silk one. Your betta wants somewhere to rest, but plastic plants can snag betta fins. And you do need a dechlorinator if you don't have one. (If you don't have one, I recommend SeaChem Prime, but if you do have one, use whatever you are using.)

So that's more than $30. BUT: it will take you less than an hour a week to take care of the little dude once your cycle finishes, so hopefully that balances out. Please read about cycling in the sidebar if you have not already. You are doing fish-in cycling. Understand what that means and what you need to do to keep your fish safe. I would normally advise buying a test kit, but that will bring you even further over budget and you can bring samples to a pet store and they should test your water for you if you ask. The nitrogen cycle is a great little science lesson if your kid isn't too young, also!

Once your tank is cycled, you will just need to do water changes once a week (drain a percentage of your tank, with 3 gallons you'll probably do something like 50%, honestly, since it is so small and changes are so easy). Temperature match new water using the thermometer, add dechlorinator, and pour the water in. Once a month or so, rinse out your filter media in some tank water (NOT tap water). And obviously feed your fish small amounts every day-ish, keep an eye on the temperature, and try to notice any potential disease issues.

If you do the things I listed above, that's basically the bare bones of betta keeping right there. Everything else is extra. You may want to creep over on /r/plantedtank one day in the future, and you may want to visit /r/bettafish as well, but this should be sufficient to keep your betta healthy.

If you have any questions, let me know.

We originally wanted a brown/red one but we just fell in love with ours and couldn't not adopt him.

I'm not sure if you're doing it but crate training is an absolute must. It'll make your life so much easier once your little guy gets used to it. We feed Chewie all his meals in the crate and he now will go in there when he's tired and wants to sleep. He also won't pee in there so it's useful for sleeping in at night.

In terms of training - we managed to teach him sit on the day we brought him him and teaching them to drop things is really simple as well. Play a bit of tug-of-war with him and then say "drop it" or "let go" (either is fine, but only use one or the other - not both). Hold a treat by his nose and he'll drop it. Do it a few times and he'll be dropping things on command in no time at all.

What I love about ours is we just don't need to bathe him frequently. We've had ours for almost 6 weeks now and we've only showered him once. His coat just looks amazing and he still smells pretty clean!

The breed itself is just so playful and generally will love to meet every single person, dog and anything else. He'll be a useless guard dog but a fun little companion.

I'd recommend looking at getting some puzzle/IQ toys for your dog. It'll help their mental capacity and surprisingly tires them out as though they've had a run around the garden. We started him on this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Trixie-Dog-Activity-Flip-Board/dp/B0054Q9TMA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1450062456&sr=8-2&keywords=dog+puzzle

Hide some high value treats in there (cheese!) and watch him entertain himself for half an hour. There are other toys but that has definitely worked for us.

As other people have said, ferret cages might have spaced big enough for smaller rats to escape.

I would definitely advise getting a Critter Nation cage: http://www.dog.com/item/critter-nation-small-animal-cage-single-unit/650231/?srccode=GPDOG&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&scid=scplp9000136&gclid=CjwKEAjwu6a5BRC53sW0w9677RcSJABoFn4sXRfeqmFuLS7H4CZT3h2S5W9aCENq2GcHJ_-XIfSsxhoCNhbw_wcB
Google it and go to shopping results. That's how I got mine for the low low price of $112, and that was including shipping! It's a great investment.

Pretty much anything you need for your boys you can get online: lab blocks, hammocks, chews, toys, litter boxes, etc.

I have three boys. They're not that smelly, honestly. They smell a little sweet sometimes, like cheerios and faint pee.

They're litter box trained, but occasionally miss or whiz outside their box. These are the boxes I have: https://jet.com/product/detail/fa77c55e49b84b21ad3482352a86bba8?jcmp=pla:ggl:gen_animals_pet_supplies_a3:pet_supplies_cat_supplies_cat_litter_boxes_a3_other:na:na:na:na:na:2&code=PLA15&ds_c=gen_animals_pet_supplies_a3&ds_cid&ds_ag=pet_supplies_cat_supplies_cat_litter_boxes_a3_other&product_id=fa77c55e49b84b21ad3482352a86bba8&product_partition_id=161833679820&gclid=CjwKEAjwu6a5BRC53sW0w9677RcSJABoFn4snBzuFx8FUS2MnG0nvpNFwX7W3F7WqPO-I91Zrx3ygBoC62Pw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
The messiest things they do are leaving lab block crumbs everywhere, missing the litter box, or chewing up a towel or napkin they got a hold of. Occasionally poops/litter fall out of the cage, especially when you clean it.

I have my cage floor covered in an old towel, with fleece on top. A couple of times a week I sweep out crumbs/chewed up mess/ stray poops with a mini broom and dustpan. If you're lazy, use a vacuum cleaner.

For full cleans, I vacuum the floor fleece, all their hideouts and hammocks, and their scraps of loose fleece they use for blankets to clean up loose mess. Then pick up the towels and fleece, shake em out like a rug outside if they're still dirty, and throw em in the washer. Wipe down the cage surfaces with baby wipes or pet cleaner. Lay down another towel-fleece later for another week or week and a half, and repeat.

Be sure to supply plenty of hideaways, hammocks, boxes, space pods (http://www.amazon.com/Lixit-Critter-Space-Pod-Large/dp/B002X2NBNQ)
etc. for them to sleep/cuddle/hide in.

Good treats are (most) fruits, non-sugary cereals like cheerios, nuts, pasta, pretty much anything you'd consider "healthy and natural". Occasional FrootLoops or dollops of ice cream won't hurt them either. I pretty much always share whatever I'm eating with those cute little faces.

As mentioned before, lab blocks are what you should feed ideally. They're specially formulated to have the perfect percentage of each amino acid and the right amount of fiber, etc. Plus lab blocks make their poops almost odorless! I use Harlan Teklad (also known as Native Earth, apparently) 2016 formula, which I get from "The Crafty Rat" online store: https://www.thecraftyrat.com
It's pretty cheap since you can buy in bulk, and each 5 lb bag lasts a month or more.

Of course always have water in bottles available. I get the big 30 Oz critter sipper bottles from Walmart. Make sure to hang up a couple in their cage in case one leaks all out or gets clogged.

Lab blocks should keep their teeth worn down, but you can give them cardboard, wooden bird toys, lava ledges, or even deer antler to chew on. Mine pretty much never chew anything, but they love this and literally chew it to pieces: http://www.petswarehouse.com/8-in-1-wild-harvest-chewable-log-small/?gclid=CjwKEAjwu6a5BRC53sW0w9677RcSJABoFn4sQZZwP2wwvkg7wnxX5FVDadNP4EDvK9dXv3l505RAuRoC5cjw_wcB

I'll just give you my generalize copy/pasta I usually hand out in situations like these so if you wanna read it when you got a chance, then you have it! Also has tips and purchase links for Amazon as well for different axolotl stuffs.


HOW TO CYCLE:

1. Set up tank with clean conditioned water. 2. Add recommended amount of beneficial bacteria per label
   
   
2. Add "waste" to the tank, so a little bit of say fish flakes ( they're cheap and you need a waste source since you DO NOT put a fish or axolotl in a uncycled tank. The flakes are gonna break down into ammonia. The goal with cycling is to get benefical bacteria to build up so they can change (eat) the waste & breaks down the ammonia into nitrite then finally break it down further into nitrate. All these chemicals can hurt axolotl.
   
   
3. Test tank a couple days later with a testing kit ( avoid strips, they will lie to you and give false results) if there is ANY ammonia or nitrite present, you arent cycled. If there is no nitrate present either, you arent cycled.
   
   
4. If you find ammonia or nitrite, take 50% of the water out and add clean treated water. Add more seachem stability ( benefical bacteria) ( add these each time you change water. Even if it's cycled)
   
   
5. Add a pinch more flakes & Continue to do this until your tank is cycled. Meaning you have no ammonia, no nitrite and a presence of 40ppm or less of nitrate.
   
   
   
   Warnings:
   1.If your tank isn't cycled, you are going to chemical burn them with ammonia in the water. And they will suffer. Nitrate ( the final of the chemical process) can also burn the fish/axolotl. This is why we keep this number under 40ppm. If it is higher than 40ppm, change the water 75%.
   
   
6. This beneficial bacteria lives in the filter. If you change your filter, you just ruined your cycle. Don't do this. If it gets nasty/clogged & you have to replace the cartirage, leave the old cartirage in with the new one for a few days so the beneficial bacteria can inhabit the new filter. If you can avoid replacing that, just rinse/gently squeeze out the filter in old tank water when you do clean the tank to keep from murdering the bacteria
   
7. Letting the filter dry out will also kill a cycle.
   
8. 
   
   *NOTE: Most bottles of beneficial bacteria say they cycle a tank in a day. Cycling can take up to a month in some cases but usually just two weeks if you keep on it. This requires constantly monitoring, testing and replacing most of the water in the tank when you get high ammonia/nitrite levels. You need ammonia/nitrite to be 0 and nitrate to be more than 0. Definitely less <40. If all your levels are higher than this, or if nitrate remains 0, your tank isn't cycled.***
   
   
   Summery;
   So basically, cycling builds beneficial bacteria which makes these waste breakdown chemicals go through a cycle of breaking down into a less dangerous form which keeps fish/axolotl from getting sick/dying. ... Most new fish people don't do this. And fish store employees try & tell them just adding something like seachem stability fixes this. It doesn't. An uncycled tank is basically new tank syndrome and it kills animals.
   
   You still are going to need to keep an eye on chemical levels after the cycle..Occasionally different things can cause the cycle to "crash", like changing the filters or a high tempeture, or the filters becoming dry..
   
   Once your tank is cycled, and you have an axolotl, honestly it's not that much work. The cycles the worst part. I feed my adult axolotls once every other day, I change 75% of their water twice a month, and add water to top it off / spot clean occasionally two-three other times a month due to the water I lose due to evaporation.
   
   
   Stuff you'll need:
   
9. Air stone+ airline+ air pump ( cheap ones are at Walmart.
   
10. Seachem stability ( beneficial bacteria)
    
11. Seachem prime ( it's a water conditioner I just prefer seachem)
    
12. A tank, 10 gallon minimum for 1 axolotl. But the bigger the better.
    
13. A filter
    
14. Hides for the axolotl
    
15. A syphon / water vacuum ( to suck out the poo/change water easy. I have a long food grade plastic hose I got from Ace hardware. I syphon and let it drain into the yard
    
16. A bucket
    
17. A Tupperware
    
18. A fan. Literally any fan you can put on top the tank and point at it will work. I have a table fan sitting on top my tank and blowing at the water to help keep it cool. A chiller is best, but they are expensive.
    
19. A tank thermometer ( don't get the thermometer strips, they lie
    
20. A master fresh water test kit.
    
21. Worms or repashy or pellets
    
    
    
    Links:
    
22. Test kit https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000255NCI/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549784772&sr=8-2&keywords=master+freshwater+test+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=51FQhbpfB0L&ref=plSrch
    
    
    
23. Fan suggestion
    
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001R1RXUG?aaxitk=NqgMhM9.r7.gAHICKezCoA&pd_rd_i=B001R1RXUG&pf_rd_p=0ef604ef-c787-43e9-9404-52a4ff25a95c&hsa_cr_id=8386596470601&sb-ci-n=asinImage&sb-ci-v=https%3A%2F%2Fimages-na.ssl-images-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FI%2F71pMktGGyRL.jpg&sb-ci-a=B001R1RXUG
    
    
24. Tank thermometer
    
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002AQITK/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1549784880&sr=8-5&keywords=tank+thermometer
    
    4.
    Air pump + line + stone.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073DWVX5P/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1549784937&sr=8-11&keywords=air+pump+for+aquarium&dpPl=1&dpID=41%2BcSpzfDgL&ref=plSrch
    
    
25. Filter ( basic the tank you have probably already has one)
    
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000260FUM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785038&sr=8-2&keywords=hob+filter&dpPl=1&dpID=41Rr1kpTVOL&ref=plSrch
    
    
26. Shower poof ( hang these so they slow the flow of water coming out of filter. Axolotls don't like a lot of heavy water flow. Get these at the dollar store and rinse them before going in tank. You don't have to get these online. I'm just showing you)
    
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01F88BMC8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785094&sr=8-3&keywords=shower+pouf
    
    
27. Seachem stuff
    Prime; https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00025694O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785181&sr=8-1&keywords=seachem+prime&dpPl=1&dpID=41Q0rRc8NML&ref=plSrch
    
    Stablity:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002APIIW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785210&sr=8-1&keywords=seachem+stability
    
    
28. Food
    Pellets:
    
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0787T25J1/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785278&sr=8-1&keywords=axolotl+pellets
    
    Repashy:
    https://www.chewy.com/repashy-superfoods-meat-pie-gel/dp/166289?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=f&utm_content=Repashy%20Superfoods&utm_term=&gclid=Cj0KCQiAkfriBRD1ARIsAASKsQLQAXpk3WwGiCwRMr6OQmbfUXPIZutYnADrujltXxW1PPSVgYpPduEaAmAaEALw_wcB
    
    Ice cube trays for repashy( frozen is better. It's a jello. It will really trash your tank. So frozen is better):
    
    https://www.amazon.com/niceCube-Mini-Ice-Cube-Trays/dp/B01L7ZFBXW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785496&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=mini+ice+cube+tray&psc=1
    
    
    
29. Hides. Here's a good example..I soemthing similar. Just go to the reptile section at your pet store. Get one that's not rough but smooth. Plastics a good option. Just rinse it well before you put it in tank
    https://www.arcatapet.com/m/item.cfm?cat=22600&source=GA-PLA00522600&fullsite=0
    
    
30. Water vacuum. This is what I have + I have a big long hose for big water changes. I use this to spot clean poo and "vacuum' it into a 10 gallon bucket
    
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B011DDJZ9Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785739&sr=8-1&keywords=aquarium+vacuum
    
    Feeding tongs: They're actually tweezers for planting a planted fish tank. These can grip worms very well.. The Amazon ones that are silver suck and will make your life hell. Don't waste your money on ones on amazon unless you can find these on Amazon.
    
    https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/fish/feeding-accessories/fluval-straight-forceps

Hello! The tetra 3 gal is the best choice imo of the 3. If you don't want to go all out, then this hood and basic tank. Petsmart has small 5 lb bags of white or black sand if you don't want to do gravel and depending on what all you will have in you tank, I've found sand to be pretty easy to deal with when cleaning tanks. I'm a big fan of Hydor heaters and I've heard a lot of good reviews on Eheim too.

In all honesty, if you are able to go just a little bit bigger, I'd suggest a Fluval Spec V. I have 3 tanks and 2 of them are the Spec V's. They're sleek, have a nice pump that has not only adjustable flow, but has a directional nozzle, you can fit a Hydor heater next to the outtake tubing, and already has a light. If you get that with a heater, you can take a small bag of sand, the Sponge Bob pineapple home, some colorful silk plants, and a moss ball or two you'd be all set as a beginner and not have it take up much more room. If you do get a snail, perhaps your son would name it Gary? (the snail in Spongebob? haha not necessary but it is possible to have a vacuum to eat any leftovers the betta doesn't eat.)

Just remember that if you move a fish tank, you'll want to drain out some of the water to make moving easier as well as safer. I take it this will be pretty sudden so a fishless cycling won't really be a thing so please make sure to have betta water conditioner.

Good luck!

As someone that's gone thru the same scenario as you I'm going to give you some possible options you can take that will make things way easier on you. The initial investment may be on the higher side but it's the equivalent of a couple dinners and a movie for some high quality stuff that'll last a long time.

• You need 4 things for a happy Betta: A proper tank, a filter, a heater, and proper decorations.
  
  
• First, return that 1 gallon aquarium if possible. While Betta's don't need large tanks I'd recommend something at least 2.5+ gallons. The tank will stay cleaner longer and your fish will be more active.
  
  
• There are different quality aquariums. Look for something that's an all-in-one design (comes with filter and light) Personally I love Fluval, a company that sells all in one contained tanks that are high quality, run silent, and are well designed. For dorm life I'd recommend The Spec 3: https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Spec-Aquarium-2-6-Gallon-Black/dp/B009K0ZKAQ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1506546740&sr=8-5&keywords=fluval+spec
  If that's too much money this is also a good budget tank: https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-29095-Cube-Aquarium-3-Gallon/dp/B008CA7W7E/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1506546844&sr=1-5&keywords=aquarium+kit
  
  
• Buy a heater, any basic heater that can sustain a set temp is fine: https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-26447-Submersible-Aquarium-50-Watt/dp/B000OQO69Q/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1506547013&sr=1-2&keywords=tetra+heater
  
  
• Decorations: Bettas have long fins that tear easily on sharp plastic plants. Buy soft or rounded decorations and substrate.
  
  
• It's also highly suggested to buy any type of water conditioner to remove chlorine from tap water etc.: https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-16172-AquaSafe-8-45-oz/dp/B00068JW0A/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1506547213&sr=1-5&keywords=tetra+easy+balance
  
  
• Betta food is subjective, though I like Hikari's brand that comes in those clear packages with the maze looking thing to dispense food.
  
  

Hopping on here, I have a 5 mo Goldendoodle who did not do well with crate training at first. The woman we got him from suggested that many people had great success using Snuggle Puppy Behavioral Toy and it was an absolute game changer for us. Ollie has slept through the night (minus nights with belly aches), every night since. I would also recommend keeping the crate in your room with you, as others have suggested.

I also highly recommend Zak George’s videos on dog training, I read his book too, but the YouTube videos are extremely informational and worked really well for me when I needed help training Ollie.

For the puppy energy I took Ollie for lots of short walks, I live in Florida so the heat was a definite issue and I didn’t want to keep him out for too long, however, once he was walked he would nap for hours.

Apart from that, just give your puppy lots of love and patience and know it does get easier with time. I was pulling my hair out for the first month, almost two months with Ollie, but now, at month three, it’s like a switch has flipped. I can tell what he needs much more quickly than the first month and he’s much better about trying to communicate what he needs. Good luck OP!

Hi - I have a Belgian Shepherd myself (Sheepdog variety, aka Groenendael). She is five now and much calmer than she was as a puppy, but as a pup, we were in the dog park twice a day (morning and night) for about 30-60 minutes each time, usually playing fetch (or she was herding other dogs).


You have a few options here other than just giving the dog up, but they will require you to commit time and some money to this.


First, wake up early and go to the dog park. I have something called the chuck it that I used all the time when my Belgian was a puppy. This toy let me avoid picking up disgusting tennis balls by hand while also throwing the toy way further than I typically could. Your dad working 9-5 is like my work schedule - I would wake up at like 6:30, take her to the park, come home around 7:15 and then feed her and get ready for work. She was used to be kenneled from about 8-12 when I would come home over lunch to let her out (I lived 5 minutes from my office). It wasn't much of a break, but it split up the day a bit for her. I would go back to work and leave her with a frozen kong toy that would mentally keep her occupied while I was gone. When I came home, I let her out, changed clothes, and off to the park again.


Also, have you considered doggy daycare or a dog walker? Days I knew would be long in the office, I couldn't get home, or had an event in the evening - she would go to daycare. It was about $25 a day but she basically was running and playing with other dogs for 9 hours. Great socialization and she was exhausted. Dog walker prices vary by area - I would check with some local rescue groups and see who they recommend (they should know the reputable walkers in the area).


Finally, the pup needs training. Either go to PetCo or PetSmart to get started with basic obedience and then graduate to other classes. My little girl was in advance obedience at 6 months old - she was on track for agility training when she was full grown (recommended as to not hurt her growing joints) but we moved and an agility facility was unfortunately nowhere near by. However, that said, I still kept up her training and daily dog park trips.


If you aren't willing to dedicate the time and energy to the breed, you're going to have a hell of a time. They're great dogs but you have to put the time in to working them out, physically and mentally. If you can't, see if the breeder will take the pup back (most will if they're good) and if not, contact the Belgian Shepherd rescue group - they probably have a foster system of some sort setup. Other local rescues may be able to help as well, just make sure they are foster based or have a private facility - don't just give the dog to animal control or the town shelter.

If you're purely looking for aesthetic light and not plant growth then all you really want is a strong LED like this one that will cover the tank in nice white light.

If you're interested in growing plants I've heard good things about this clip light on nano aquariums like the edge specifically.

If your edge is your only aquarium, or one you're particularly passionate about, then I would recommend the upgrade to the planted+ light if it's affordable for you. Shrimp love live plants and algae growth, and there are a lot of really great looking aquascaping options for the edge if you have a good light.

If you do opt for the planted+ and end up wanting to plant the aquarium a la /r/plantedtank then I'd personally recommend DIY yeast or citric acid CO2 bottle generators. For $20 on amazon you can get the 2L bottle kit and a CO2 diffusion disk, a kit I've personally used to great effect on a 30g. For a little edge tank you'd be able to grow a lush garden (just make sure your O2 stays up enough for your shrimp).

It is possible. Reading through the comments in this post, I see that you just got your noodle. Congrats!

But that as well will play a huge factor. Little friend is stressed out. Just give it a solid week of no touching and no feeding attempts. After that give it another go.

As for the temp. I’ll give you some basic:

-Coconut shedding substrate (replace after a week so that your snake gets comfortable to its surroundings first)
-Thermometers/hygrometer at the bottom of the tank
-Plug the headpad into a thermostat

After your new friend has eaten;

-moisten the new coconut substrate by mixing water into it and mixing it all up with your hands. Leaving dry substrate under its hides. This will be great to help with humidity, which you will see if your house humidity isn’t high, will be a struggle.

My house has an average of about 44, so I have to mix my substrate about every 2 days. I’m going to be looking into other options down the road, as I have done all the home remedies and mixing is my best option.

Hope all of this helps!

Short answer: yes temp and humidity will affect your snakes feeding 🐍 🐁 lol


Edit: replace substrate after a week from today I meant. Not once a week.

Edit two: a chill mod in here once told me to cover the top screen with tin foil while mixing the substrate. Best tip ever. Plus if you do it right, it looks nifty. Just make holes for your heat lamp and ventilation. It’ll take some time to perfect. But not long. Kay I’m done now

Ha, love the name idea!

I'm not sure if you have read around and are aware of the proper care for a betta (if you have then ignore me) but if you haven't I'll go ahead and say a two gallon bowl isn't the best place for him, and is also another reason for the downvotes. He can live in it but he's not going to thrive. He does need a heater and a filter, if you have those then that is awesome, if not you can even get them as a broke college student.

If I can tell you one thing I'm positively sure of, there is always room for a fish tank. ;)

I'm just going to link you a cheap list of good stuff for little moneys:

Sponge Filter

Air Pump

Airline Tubing I bet you can find this in stores for less. Also less as an add on item.

Check Valve Most likely less at a store.

Heater, Heater 2 Costs a good bit more but I really love these.

Tank, Tank 2 There are many other options to look at.

If you go with the cheapest it will run you just about $58 with prime.

Hope the list gives you something to think about. If you've got any questions at all I'd be more than happy to answer them if I can.

Edit* Added a link.

Not sure what your budget is, but there are a few suggestions I can make.


2. Make grooming easy with bribes! Healthy treats like Catty Shack or Greenies make Brush Time easier for both parties.


3. A lot of professional groomers charge an arm and a leg for cats (because of their arms and legs), so do the grooming yourself! You will need a Furminator, nail clippers, and cleansing wipes. Groom often, and invest in a scratching post.


4. As long as you are using a tool for grooming cats (i.e.: Furminator) you don't have to worry about overdoing it. Brush as thoroughly as you can, and stop when your brush starts coming out clean (or nearly free of loose hairs).


5. General tips: Buy the best food your budget allows. Preferably wet food, or a diet half wet food and half dry food. Go grain free, like Merrick and/or Soulistic. For a healthy, shiny coat I would recommend Pet Naturals' Daily Best; And to reduce hairballs, Hairball. Don't use hairball remedies that contain petroleum jelly, it will give your baby the runs :(

EDIT: Formatting

• I have this Crate and this seems like it would be a good size. Don't get it any bigger than you have to or the dog is more likely to pee/poop in one corner and sleep in the other.
  
  
• If she's smelly and seems scared of a bath, some pet wipes will hold you over until she seems more chill
  
  Toys:
  
  
• Get a Kong, fill with cooked sweet potato, peanut butter, plain yogurt with a little kibble mixed in, etc, then freeze till solid, and give to your dog for a treat that stimulates them mentally, keeps them busy, and helps with separation anxiety.
  
  
• Hide-a-Squirrel. An interactive toy- you stuff the log with squirrels and any other toys you have and let your dog have a blast tearing them out
  
  
• Treat dispensing toy you can use to actually feed your dog her meals if she eats too fast. I like this one because you can change the difficulty by making the hole openings smaller or larger
  
  
• Lastly if you have no idea what kind of toys she likes and are striking out (and have a little extra dough lying around and want to treat yo-self), you might want to try ordering BarkBox (you can almost always get a free month when signing up so google coupon codes before ordering). I did it for about a year and a half and was always blown away by the quality and the amazing way they curate each box to fit a theme. The toys were always adorable!
  
  I didn't know about the 2 Week Shutdown when I got my dog and while things turned out okay in the end, I definitely think it would have been VERY beneficial to do it. So best of luck and please update us with pics when she gets home!

No problem!

Tiring out dogs can be a real pain. Thankfully I have 2 that play well together... One that has a never ending drive to retrieve, and one that loves to be chased. I throw the ball for the one that wants to be chased, and they run in big circles around me for 30 minutes non-stop, then we go inside and they pass out on the cold tile floor in the bathroom! It's fantastic. Haha.

The best advice I can give you is to use high value rewards. One of mine loves fetch just for the sake of fetch. The other wants a food reward. We had to initially get him interested by "trading" a ball for a small slice of hot dog. Once he understood that, we'd toss the ball 2-3 ft away, and he'd bring it back for more hot dog. Then we slowly moved to 10 ft, 20 ft, then full tosses. Once he gets the hang of it, you can phase the hot dog out (1 piece every other retrieve, then every third, then every fifth) until he's really just playing fetch because they like it.

My other big point of advice would be to get a Chuck It Launcher and a pack of Ultra Balls. The launcher makes it way easier to throw for a long time, as you don't have to bend over to pick the balls up, your hands don't get nasty, and the balls go farther. And the ultra balls are great because they are a near-indestructible rubber rather than the tennis ball that comes with the launcher (and they float!).

So, I used to have the same filter that is in your picture. I was in denial that I would need to get a new one. I ignored every single sign that it sucked, I disregarded every bad review, I convinced myself it would work for me. It finally stopped working and I wish that I had ditched it sooner because I notice a difference in my tank with the sponge.

ANYWAY I ended up buying this one on Amazon. It is perfect! It hooks right up the air pump for the Tetra filter. Although, I did get a check valve thingy because the bubbles were a bit much for my 5.5 gallon, but now it is great and barely disturbs the surface. My fish even likes to sit on it and against it.

It did take awhile to get here, but I would definitely say it was worth the wait. I would order it immediately. One of the reasons I didn't was because I was put off by the wait time, but like that time passed and I still had a crappy filter at the end of it, so I should have just ordered it and had a nice filter at the end.

Edit:

As far as backgrounds go, I think a black one would be really nice. I got a cheap one from my LFS, the one that has blue on one side and black on the other. It sticks on really easy, I just rubbed some Crisco across the back of my tank and set the background on. Then I rubbed a credit card over it to get bubbles out. It's still stuck on there pretty solid and makes my tank look much more put together.

Last edit:
Your tank and your fish are very pretty! The green decorations would pop with a black background and so would your fish's gorgeous coloring. My fish is pink too and he looks so good in my tank against the background.

If you have the money for it, getting each of you a mic like the Samson Q2U or Audio-Technica ATR2100 will go a long way in making the sound better. Another thing is to do some basic acoustic treatment. If you string up a heavy blanket behind each of you, and another on the wall that's in frame, it will cut out a lot of the echos and make you sound a lot better (no matter what mic you're using).

For video, I'm not sure there is much that can be done to the recording quality without spending a bunch of money on a camera, but there are a couple of things you can still do to make it look nicer. First of all, improve your lighting. Everything is well lit, but if you focus the lights more on your faces and have less light in the background, it will add a nice contrast to the scene (clamp style work lights are a cheap solution if you need more lights). The other thing is more audio based, but record the video and audio separately. Audacity is a free software for audio recording/editing, and if you can record it there as well as in OBS, you can have the audio only for a more 'traditional' podcast.

​

I know it sounded like a lot of critique there, but overall what you have isn't bad. There's room for improvement, but the only thing I would consider as needed would be some acoustic treatment. I hope this all helped!

Wow, thanks for taking the time to provide an in depth answer!

Im currently looking at this Fluval Spec V; though I cant tell if its version 1 or 2 (im thinking its the newer model, since Amazon lets you know if there is a newer version available).

In regards to plants, I have a leaf hammock and a plastic log, and I will be adding more (silk), but wont be ordering from amazon; im also looking to add driftwood and some live plants.

As far as live plants go, I think I understood that its better to cycle without them, as they could alter the process as they feed on ¿nitrate?. So I would add them later on. What do you think?

Id rather go with Seachem Stability, just because of the ease of measurring.

Ive since added Fluval Spec Carbon Filter replacement and Fluval Spec Bio Max.

Read on several websites that the current could be too strong for a betta, and the sponge cover seemed like an easy fix.

For substrate, I will most likely get gravel.; would love to have sand (too hard to care for as a begginer?) or ADA Africana (weight/cost).

Will check at my LFS for quality substrate, but have low expectations.

As for stock, I would like to add shrimp (ghost and/or RCS) but once my tank is established and settled. In reality, I would love to have Khukli Loaches (3) but general consensus is that a 5g is way too small.

Ill be looking into other bottom feeders (fish), but it doesnt seem I will be able to add them to a 5g.

Hows your setup, what do you have?

Hey OP so I hate to be a bit of a buzzkill here, but you might want to check out aqadvisor, I looked at your stock list and for a tank that size it would be severely overstocked and you would be dealing with a lot of aggression from your fish.

I don't know much about angelfish, but I think they're supposed to be pretty aggressive, making it difficult to keep with other fish. Some gouramis might be great, but they can get pretty aggressive too. I have one right now and he doesn't play too nicely with my black phantom tetras sometimes.

Oh, are you doing a fishless cycle? Remember that Eco complete has no nutrients in it so it won't leach ammonia. This means that you will have to dose the ammonia yourself, I know Amazon sells Dr Tims ammonia chloride that is suitable for aquarium use. If you do use something else, make sure that it doesn't have surfactants in it, meaning that it doesn't make lots of bubbles when you shake it, surfactants are harmful to your aquarium!

Since your substrate won't leach ammonia, you will need to make sure that you dose your substrate too or your water column. I didn't know this going into my tank and I am having all sorts of algae problems now myself, I think that I've run out of nutrients in the substrate.

You also might want to take your driftwood out of your tank and scrub and boil it for a few hours to make it completely safe for your aquarium. This will also solve your floating problem!

Anyways, that was a lot and I hope you were able to bear with me! I think that you have a good start and it's looking pretty promising. I think that you've arranged the driftwood quite nicely and I hope you'll post pics when it grows it. Looking good, I hope this helps!

I used to be terribly allergic to cats, but with a combination of drugs and anti-allergen products I hardly ever get any symptoms from my two cats. Some drugs work well for certain people and others don't work at all. You just have to try them until you find what works for you, but here are some of the common ones:

Loratadine (Claritin), cetirizine (Zyrtec), and fexofenadine (Allegra). These are newer antihistamines that are supposedly non-drowsy and last all day. I take cetirizine since loratadine doesn't seem to do anything for me and fexofenadine costs about twice as much.

Diphenhydramine (Benadryl) and chlorpheniramine. These are older antihistamines that work differently than the three mentioned above. I find them to be much more effective, but they only last a few hours and make me sleepy. Useful if you get allergic before going to bed. Oh and here's a tip: if you're buying generic diphenhydramine, look in both the allergy section and the sleep-aid section. The same exact drug is sold as allergy relief and as a sleep-aid, and sometimes one is cheaper than the other.

Cromolyn nasal spray (NasalCrom). This drug works by preventing the release of histamine in the first place, so it's best when taken prior to cat exposure. For me, this is the most effective one since most of symptoms are in the nose. It's also safe to use in combination with other allergy medicines.

In addition to medication, there are products you can buy that reduce the amount of cat allergen in the home:

ADS Anti-allergen Spray can stain some fabrics, so they make a different formula that doesn't stain but requires more frequent application.

Allerpet C is a solution that you can apply to your cat to make her less allergenic.

And I'm sure there are many more. Brushing your cat regularly can reduce shedding, which should help with allergies since cats lick themselves and the Fel d 1 protein comes from the saliva. I recommend a FURminator.

If you are planning on getting a cat, you might want to look into the different cat breeds as some are less allergenic than others. I've also read that on average female cats and cats with lighter coloured fur tend to be less allergenic, although I'm not sure if this is definitively true.

And even if none of this works, I'd say that having cats is worth putting up with a few allergies!

the fluval spec V is very popular, but also pretty expensive, you can also look around on craigslist for a nice 10g with a decent filter, heater and lid! A long tank is better than a high or round tank, since it has more horizontal swimming space (and it makes it easier for the betta to chill near the surface).

You can also get a bare glass tank and then shop for the rest. A sponge filter + air pump is great, a 25 or 50 V adjustable heater will do fine. Then all you need is a lid and maybe a light. If you live in the US, you might want to wait for the dollar per gallon sale to pick up a nice 10 or 20 gallon!

If you do want to get a kit, fluval, eheim usually have good systems. Be sure to always look up the filters and lights! The filter might be a little too strong for a betta, or the lights might be too weak for live plants (if you want them).

u/crysanthemumCord is right on with their advice.

Just some more suggestions on toys: I almost buy dogs toys exclusively from Amazon or Chewy. I find that their prices are competitive, and who doesn't like having packages delivered right to them? Kongs are great, but there are also treat balls that dogs can roll around with their noses for kibble -- I feed my dogs from these so they get a bit of mental play while searching for their food. You can also consider snuff mats or lick mats or even puzzle toys. These are great ways to stimulate them mentally with minimal effort from you.

If you have stores like Marshalls or Ross near you, you can also find discounted dog toys. You'll have to dig around a little, but there are some great finds!

By the way, all of these links go to particular brands that I've had luck with. I'm by no means suggesting that these are the best or that there aren't alternatives out there. Do some research on what you think your pup will enjoy!

​

I think a lot of things are kind of up to your rat's preference. I wouldn't bother buying a wheel unless you knew they loved it because most rats don't care about running on wheels. I'd invest in a Sputnik because it's universally loved by rats. https://www.amazon.com/Lixit-Critter-Space-Pod-Large/dp/B002X2NBNQ You'll need some sort of bedding. I've put fleece covers down and litter box trained my rats. I tried all sorts of bedding but I really ended up liking Aspen shavings (which is the only safe wood for rats because the others give off scents that irritate their breathing). PVC pipe joints are good for them to run through and hide. http://www.allrightmachinery.com/pvc/pipe-fitting2.jpg My rats like Lava ledges to climb on and this helps wear down their claw without clipping. https://www.amazon.com/Kaytee-Lava-Ledge-Assorted-Colors/dp/B00176F466 Also put some bricks near their water/food bowl to help whittle their nails down too. Binder clips and safety pins are your friends for hanging things. A ton of my stuff is from the dollar store so I can just throw it away when it gets really disgusting/torn up. And plenty of soft fleece pieces/fabric scraps for them to snuggle and nest in. Save any cardboard boxes you can because they love playing in them.

Hi there. I'm not sure if it is the same for all breeds. I had a Pyrenees and we had two mats saved out and that never grew back. There was a lot of debate about it when I was looking if it grew back or not for pyrs. Some said theirs grew back just fine others said it never grows back at all.

I do know that the furminator is damaging to the top coat regardless of it growing back or not. I never recommend it for any dog with two coats, but if the dog has only one then I think it's a fantastic tool.

I linked to what I used in my last comment, it worked great was durable, survived my pup chewing on it for a few minutes too.

I'm told that slicker brushes work great for removing undercoats, stainless steel combs too, my groomer used a combination of tools for my pup.

Here's links to what they used

https://www.amazon.com/Andis-2-Inch-Steel-Comb-65730/dp/B004UTDHP2/ref=zg_bs_2975366011_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WXPAQEGMAZBGCYFVXDRA

https://www.amazon.com/Safari-W6116-De-matting-Comb/dp/B0002ARR2W/ref=zg_bs_2975366011_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WXPAQEGMAZBGCYFVXDRA

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00O0WOME4/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1494480770&sr=1-11&keywords=pet+brushes+for+dogs

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MUABBQS/ref=mp_s_a_1_71?ie=UTF8&qid=1494480894&sr=1-71-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=pet+brushes+for+dogs&psc=1

I thought it was a lot of different tools myself, but it's hard to argue the results because he came out looking fantastic Everytime.

I removed the undercoat myself, which the two ladies really appreciated, with just the comb but never made him look as good as they did.

You are welcome! As long as you are constant (ever chance is a chance, complete and consistent with your training you will do well. Understanding that it is a hard long road is good to know and being able to prepare helps.

If your dog is food motivated then use food to motivate. Some use dog food others treats I use treats while training. Good starting indoors then moving out making sure they are solid is what matters. Yes never toys are great get some puzzles to help work brain rotating toys helps too.


My dog loves these:
Trixie Gambling Tower, Level 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XCTUIQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BbcWCbP64KRC7

Trixie Pet Products Flip Board, Level 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0054Q9TMA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_accWCbTMGCZK1

Legend Sandy Treat Dispensing Dog Toy, Plush Dog Puzzle Toy for Snuffle Training, Duck Dog Chew Toy Interactive IQ Dog Squeaky Toy for Small Medium Large Dogs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N8MPQNP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vccWCb171ENCZ

I have a lady at local park scare of dogs over the past 6 months seeing how well behaved my girl is she now ask to pet her when she sees her. I do understand it might be hard for her. Maybe she will just throw a treat from afar it still will be good.

I'm sure I'm supposed to put my husband here, and he's really been making an effort lately. However, at this very moment, my dog is giving me puppy face. I just can't resist puppy face. Also, he barks to protect me from strange house noises, people passing by on the sidewalk, wind... He is very brave, and I've never had a truer friend. I hope he hides behind me and barks at the pizza guy for many years to come.

Would you consider getting Malcolm this interesting toy from his list if we win? I'm sure he'd be pretty grateful.

Thanks for the contest, and happy 8th birthday to your favorite person! (Carrot cake is an excellent choice!)

A MUTE BUTTON

Ok, but seriously...It's expensive, but I've heard of some breeders sending this home with their puppies. I bought one myself and left it with the breeder during our last visit before pick up so she could let the puppies play with an sufficiently rub their smells all over it (which resulted in us getting a photo of our puppy snuggled up to it a few hours later). It's a great transitional device for them leaving the litter.

Something I do with all my dogs, and maybe something that would be nifty from a breeder, is having a binder with important information pertaining to the dogs, and dividers for different categories. I keep their health records in there, the 3 page document with information we get when I bring them home, registration paperwork, print outs from class, certificates, etc. I think getting a binder to neatly store all important information on my dog is very useful, and getting one from the breeder with suggestions on training, expected puppy behavior, etc. would be pretty useful.

But really, I've never had a lot sent home with me after getting dogs, beyond a gallon bag of food to transition with and a toy that smells like mom.

We got a snuggle puppy for our 11 week puppy and it has been a life saver!! You can find them on Amazon - Smart Pet Love Snuggle Puppy Behavioral Aid Toy, Brown Mutt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C9YHFS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AYGyybQW2BN5X

Has a heart beat in it and heating pad that will make him feel like he's with his litter mates. We used the heating pads at first but found them unnecessary and expensive to use on a daily basis since you would have to buy replacements often but may be good for such a young puppy to have the heat aspect as well. Recommend watching him with it first because there is velcro at the bottom to get where the fake heart it is so just make sure he can't chew it. Our puppy treat his like his littermate and loves it.

>It gets direct sun from like 3-6pm, so it has some natural light.

I notice it's developing a lemon rather nicely, so if you've had that plant in the location for half a year or more, then it seems pretty happy. However, if it's a new plant (or was newly moved to that location), additional supplemental lighting could be beneficial.


>I was looking at like 150-300 W bulbs because I had no clue. I was also looking at the blurple ones because I also had no clue

150W Bulbs are definitely overkill unless they're incandescent, and most of the energy from those bulbs radiates out as heat. I personally prefer full spectrum LEDs because I don't want the inside of my house to look like a nightclub (blurple is hard on the eyes) and LEDs are more energy efficient, outputting more light and less heat.

>Does the housing you put the bulb in matter? Do you just use one of those cheap metal ones from Home Depot?

Keep in mind that since you already have a red/blue spectrum grow lamp in that picture in addition to the window, so if you want more supplemental lighting, you probably don't need to go the full 36W that I linked earlier. The 24W version is probably sufficient. It's a pretty big bulb, so just make sure you find a housing that is big enough to fit it and is compatible both with its E26 Socket and its Wattage. I know some folks who use this sort of thing with it, and home depot probably offers something similar.

My doodle has tight curls as well. I use a slicker brush, a wide tooth comb and a dematting comb for matts that can’t be brushed out. These are the tools I use
Chris Christensen Long Pin Slicker Brush, Large, Coral https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KAJQJ74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jLorDbT0ZDW58

OmniPet Leather Brothers Cocker/Poodle Wooden Handle Comb https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003E71QEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lMorDb60BC8E5

Safari De-Matting Comb for Dogs, Pet Supplies for Dogs, Dog Grooming, Dog Gifts, Dog Accessories, Dog Supplies, Dog Brushes for Shedding https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ARR2W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HMorDb1BAJBTH

I really love the Chris Christensen slicker brush, it’s pricey but the quality is great. It has long firm pins and the tips are soft, so it won’t hurt your doodle. Also it’s highly recommended for doodle coats. It’s best to get a slicker with long firm pins to really get down to the skin. I then follow up with the wide tooth comb to check for any missed tangles. I prefer to use the wide tooth comb because it’s not harsh on the coat and does not cause hair breakage. I rarely use the dematting tool, because I usually can get matts out with the slicker brush, but for the really tough ones I use it sparingly. You should never use a furminator, it’s harsh on the coat and skin, it can damage it. Also I supplement fish oil in my dog’s diet and I’ve noticed his coat is much more shiny and softer. The fish oil I feed is the from the brand fera pet organics. Also I really think it helps to have your doodle on a grooming schedule such as every 5 to 6 weeks, especially with super tight curls. Also be sure to brush and properly dry when ever your doodle gets wet. Might be a good idea to invest in a high velocity dog blow dryer. There’s some great affordable ones on amazon. Brushing your doodle twice or even three times a week is ideal.

I totally hear you. Good luck! It's so stressful but worth it Our 3 yr old male kitty had crystals and was hopitalized for 4 days in December. He's great now and even happier than before, playing even more vigorously. I haven't read as many research papers as I'd like to about it but we kinda feel like stress and dehydration/dry food might have factored in though I know that there are cats with other urinary tract issues with different causes or prognosis. He loves drinking out of the tub and we had multiple foster cats/kittens getting in his life and added quite a bit of stress then most of them left but my husband got really ill, my parents visited, so there was even more home stress then he got blocked after a few weeks of me thinking he was marking due to the momma cat he hadn't liked but I think in reality was him having urinary issues.

Anyways, we buy the prescription Royal Canin food on Chewy.com but I am thinking of phasing him over to the over the counter Purina Pro Plan Urinary. He's happy now, plays even more, loves the tub water and his fountain. Got stainless steel to avoid kitty acne but keep it clean! I wish you the best and hope it's a smooth recovery and he makes it through! Ours was on anti spasm meds for awhile after and it took him some time to get back to normal due to the trauma of the catheter. He was dripping and acting quite weird but eventually got back to normal.

Well yes and no - in my humble opinion.

You are doing great at taking your dog at 2 times a day - I do the same, once when I get up and once when I get home from work. We usually are out for no less than an hour each session. The big difference is that I usually have my dog fetch at least 1 of the sessions for the hour and he really get's a good run in.

One suggestion is maybe try to train your dog to play fetch? I know not every dog is going to have that "prey drive" and ability to do it as well as others, but if your's was like my dog - he just didn't know how to play "that game".

I got my dog from an adoption agency and I'm pretty sure he had terrible ill-prepared owners who ended up giving him away. When I took him to his first field and threw a ball for the first time - he just looked at me funny. I had to "teach and train" him what to do. Try this resource and maybe purchase one of these - they help out immensely.

Bottom line, it's probably not good to ONLY walk your dog. He needs to get a good run in at least once or twice a week (at the least and pending his size/breed). Teaching fetch is probably the easiest solution (and the quickest) and it requires little to no physical exertion in comparison to getting in shape to run with your dog.

I have a setup very similar to what you are describing for Scooter. He may not be too old (13 yrs) but he is FIV+ so I could lose him at any time. I have a small table set in front of the windows in my BR. I put a queen comforter folded in 8ths (read: nice and fluffy) on top of it. When it is cold out, I put this under the top layer. Since he is tripawd (missing left rear leg), I do have kitty stairs next to the table so he can get up and down on his own.

As for the sterile room, I say open the room to him. He may not even like it but if he does and he spends his final days happily basking in the sun and watching the birds on a warm comfy blanket, knowing that you were able to do that for him will be the best feeling ever. If you want to make his last weeks, months, years the best possible, make him priority. They were always here for us when we needed them so as they age we need to be there for them. As for the dogs? Get one of those pet gates with a cat access door.

I was struggling with mats in my shih for a while and then settled on a decent routine that has kept him mat-free for the last few months. I keep his hair grown out to some degree, but not to the floor (yet).

I brush every other day for around 30 min with this comb:
www.target.com/p/comb-pet-grooming-tool---up-up--153-/-/A-52305812

It isn't the greatest quality, but I like the design and it gets daily maintenance done. If you want a higher quality comb, maybe consider the style and order a better one?

When he gets mats (it's really wet and snowy where I live and he usually gets one or two a week from running in the snow), I like this brush:
Safari De-matting Comb
www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ARR2W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

It is basically a curvy one sided blade, so read the directions if you end up trying! It is kind of sharp. My dog doesn't care for this one, but it is so efficient at removing mats I have been convincing him with treats when using it haha.

I have found the best technique is to brush daily to every other day at the latest. I was shocked by how few mats he gets now with the every other day routine. It takes a long time the first few brushes, but once in the habit and mostly mat free, it goes pretty quickly.

Hope this helps!

If you don't have a space pod yet, that's a loved toy by rats.
http://www.amazon.com/Lixit-Critter-Space-Pod-Large/dp/B002X2NBNQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1456948317&sr=8-2&keywords=space+pod

My rats love to chew, so I get them a box of kid's wood blocks. I make sure that they are non-toxic. http://www.amazon.com/Melissa-Doug-100-Piece-Wood-Blocks/dp/B000068CKY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1456948355&sr=8-3&keywords=wood+blocks

This is from ebay because it's vintage... but my rats love this ark, and it's fairly easy to clean as it unscrews.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vtg-Little-Tikes-Toddle-Tots-Noahs-Ark-Elephant-Giraffe-Sheep-Cow-Noah-Mrs-/182035576604?hash=item2a622a771c:g:fKIAAOSw5dNWhT6u

We got our "crate" at a garage sale. Fairly easy to clean and a favorite hide.
http://www.amazon.com/Battat-68029AM-Dalmatian-Vet-15-Piece/dp/B000BKGM1K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1456948605&sr=8-1&keywords=toy+dog+crate

Orb of Solitude - Usually only one rat can fit inside at a time. We've never had a problem with a rat getting stuck. They seem to know when they've outgrown the small holes, but do keep an eye on them. http://www.amazon.com/Rhino-Toys-Oball-Colors-Vary/dp/B000ETREBK/ref=pd_sim_21_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=51gJTFCLf3L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=11DD9ESJMT8P92RTW2RQ

I don't know about this particular one, but I got a really nice one on amazon for $90 and free delivery to my house, which was nice because it weighs a lot. Mine has little rooms with openings like this one but it also has open platforms that they like a lot better. My three cats love it. Here's the one I got Go Pet Club Cat Tree, 50W x 26L x 72H, Beige https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003WGGWQA/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_cAf4yb5YQZHWJ

You might be having low oxygen issues with the water -- the filter should help by breaking that surface tension and getting things oxygenated. If this is the case, you should see improvement soon -- you might lower the water level in the meantime just to make it easier for him to come up for air.

The HOB is fine in the meanwhile, but if you want something simple that won't need to be baffled and provides a good surface for beneficial bacteria, I'd suggest picking up a sponge filter and a small external air pump like the Tetra Whisper 10. You can also make your own pretty easily: http://homeaquaria.com/diy-sponge-filter/

I like to stick an airstone inside mine, but thats totally optional.

They're perfect for your 20L tank and don't disturb bettas or hurt their fins, but still give nice filtration and gas exchange at the surface.

Hey there!
Since the tank will be placed on a book shelf, I'll just do a sponge filter (a small air pump won't take much space, I promise). It will not take much space inside the tank. I'm currently using this one in my 2.5 gal hospital tank and it works wonder. People are happy with the exact same one in their 5 gal as well but you can always use 2 if you'd like. Your snails will probably love the sponge filter since the sponge part can provide them delicious food and does not affect the current much, win win.

My 8 week old Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever (closely related to Goldens) was not a fan of the crate at all. We'd put her in there, even if she was tired, and she'd start whining up to a half hour.

I read about the Snuggle Puppy and the reviews on Amazon seemed too good to be true, but I wanted her to have an easier time and $30 seemed worth a shot. So, we got her this and honestly, it helps so much. The newer model comes with a heart that has an 8 hour setting, a continuous setting (runs until battery dies) and off.

So, what we do now is throw in some Freeze Dried Beef Liver Treats (the Ferrari of dog treats) in her Kong, top it off with some peanut butter and put that in the crate with her Snuggle Puppy. She'll go in there, work on her Kong and lay down. Once she lays down we cover the front of her cage with a blanket or towel to reduce some of the light and she goes to sleep with nary a whimper. It's been working day or night. It definitely comforts her. I highly recommend it.

It may just be a matter of finding toys that can keep him engaged. There are toys that are like catnip kickers or static little stuffies, but then there are also some that are battery-operated or plug in (lasers, concealed motion toys, magnetic toys).

My personal preference, especially if I'm not home to supervise are toys that can be active with just the cat's actions alone. This woven straw is one of my cat's favourites because it catches in her claws as she swats it, so as she moves, it follows her motion until it uncatches and flings off, so she'll go chase it.

I've got this cheap little wand that I use to play with her that moves fairly unpredictably and actually got my cat panting because she was so into it.

Another thing I do everyday is spend 15-20 minutes making her chase her meal. I feed wet food during the day and offer a limited amount of kibble at night, so what I do with the kibble is toss it up the stairs or around the house within her sight so she chases each piece to get fed. I do this until she gets so tired that she has to lie down 3 or 4 separate times, and then I let her rest.

After that, I fill some foraging toys with some more kibble so she has something to work for. If your cat is food motivated, this could work well for you too because it keeps them mentally and physically busy. I have a treat ball and a Wobbert (a little more challenging than a regular treat ball) but I find they're quick to solve and not very engaging. Most of the ones I get are dog toys:

• Mad Scientist
  
  
• Jigsaw Slider
  
  
• Flip board level 2
  
  
• Brain mover toy
  
  
• Lucky Slots
  
  
• Training level 3
  
  
• Training level 3
  
  Also, I hide kibble pieces all over her furniture and any cat-friendly furniture. In toys, in any nooks and crannies, in places I want her to explode. It's a good reason to get her feeling like she has a bit of a mission and poking around.

Going to be a bit long, bare with me.

Do not directly introduce the dog & cat at first. Keep them completely separated from each other. This will involve a bit of revolving animals, but in the long run it’ll be worth it. Crate the pup away from the cat and let the cat roam, sniff, etc. Hopefully the cat will “scent” some objects. After, say, an hour, crate cat away from dog. Let the dog sniff around. Do this process for 1 full week. During week 2 continue week 1 but add: rub your hands all over the cat’s face (where scent glands are) then immediately rub “scented” hands on dog’s face. This will force the dog to deal with the scent continuously. Do that for a week. Week 3 is week 2 plus “drive byes”. Dog on leash walks by crated cat until dog doesn’t show intense interest. After that you should be good. However it’s always best to have a safe space for the cat to go that the dog can’t. There are pet gates that don’t require any drilling that work wonders.

I hope that all makes sense. If you have other questions just ask.

Source: dog trainer for 10 years, own 2 pits, 1 Rottie, and 2 cats.

Looking at your original post...

The responses were valid advice, even if the tone may have been a bit condescending, but your responses were also very defensive and rude.


If you want to keep your water from being cloudy, upgrade to a tank with a filter. 1 gallon really isn't large enough for a betta, and they are tropical fish so should be in a heated tank.

You can pick up a pretty cheap kit that includes a light and filter.
Something like this looks nice, is adequately sized, and comes with a filter (although its not a GREAT filter, its certainly better than none) This little heater works well for a 3 gallon (which is what I linked earlier) and doesn't take up much room or look crappy in the tank.

A filter is not a cure all, you will still want to do partial water changes occasionally, and if youre having trouble with cloudy water, you may be over feeding. your fish's stomach is about the size of it's eye, it only needs 2-3 or those little betta pellets once a day, and if you want to keep 2 male bettas, you'll want to get something at least 5 gallons, and the divider should be something they cant see clearly though as it will stress them out. You can usually pick up a little 5 gallon glass tank at most pet stores for about $11, but you would need to get a filter, heater, etc seperately. Bettas are jumpers, so youd want to either leave about an inch unfilled at the top, or put some kind of lid on there.

This little filter works great for ~5 gallon tanks, and has adjustable flow. (bettas dont like a lot of current, so you wanna keep the flow on any filter pretty low for them)

Getting a siphon, or just a 2-3ft piece of fountain tubing (you can get it from any hardware store) makes partial water changes a million times easier as well. If you WANT to put forth the necessary effort to properly house and car for your fish, send me a PM and I may be able to help you out if you truly can't afford it. But if you TRULY don't have the time to screw with it, give them away to someone who does, and try again when your life situation is less stressful.

Get a sponge filter like this: https://www.amazon.com/XINYOU-XY-2835-Aquarium-Cylinder-Sponge/dp/B005LMQCW2/ref=asc_df_B005LMQCW2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167154348866&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=46583133798037292&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032191&hvtargid=pla-307225004780&psc=1

Get some gravel and maybe some plants like anacharis. Fill the tank, dechlorinate the water. Let the tank run for a week with nothing in it. Add some food when you start this. Dont fill the tank to the top, leave about an inch or an inch and a half at the top (for the mystery snail). (Read about cycling your tank).

Red cherry shrimp eat mostly biofilm and algae. So if you feed lightly, they'll clean up the tank. Mystery snails eat veggies so a blanched zucchini or spinach is definitely good for them. They need a lot of calcium so spinach and dark greens are recommended.

Change 10-20% of your water volume each week. Vacuum the gravel to remove poop. Dechlorinate before you add the water. If you put anacharis in there, prune them monthly. Throw away bottoms of the plants, as tops are where they actively grow. You can keep them in the gravel or floating. It doesnt matter. Monthly take your sponge filter out, and squeeze it out in the water you took out of your tank before you throw it away. Dont rinse it in tap.

If you want you can add some wood like oak or cholla wood into the tank. Make sure you soak the wood in a bucket for a good long time, maybe weeks, until it sinks and the water stops turning brown. Boiling can help it along faster. Wood will help bacteria grow and give the shrimp more food.

Along with what everyone else has said, I would recommend this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C9YHFS/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_s_awd_d_YawFxb1PW070M

It's a stuffed animal that has a fake heart inside which vibrates like a heart beat. My puppy loved this! It gave her a little "friend" to snuggle with in her crate. It even comes with a hand warmer you can shove inside too, to simulate a warm puppy to snuggle with. That and treats, a toy, anything to make it a happy place! Try to feed meals in the crate too. Start with the door open, as the pup goes inside further and is more comfortable you can shut the door and let him out when he's finished eating.

The thing that causes this behavior is that he is a working breed dog who is extremely energetic. You basically described almost every lab I have ever trained. His owners need to give him a lot more mental and physical stimulation.

Since he is a lab, a chuck it ball thrower would be a great way to play fetch. A flirt pole is another really great toy for tiring dogs out.

For mental stimulation, mealtimes are a perfect opportunity. Have them get either a Bob-A-Lot or a Kong Wobbler for daily feeding and get rid of his food bowl. I recommend the Bob-A-Lot because you can make it easier or harder. This gives him ~10 extra minutes of brain work every day and you don't have to do anything extra.

Then basic obedience and chew/puzzle toys (kong marathon ball, nobbly nubbly, squirrel dude) will also help.

aquarium cycling is the buildup of bacteria that convert ammonia and nitrite (poisonous) into non toxic nitrate. The bacteria mainly live in your filter media that you do not have because you don't have a filter. The nitrogen cycle is the single most important part about fish keeping. Daily water changes can be stressful. Do you keep him in the tank while changing the water or cup him? Sponge filters are good filter because they have an adjustable flow, but any filter appropriately sized for your tank can be baffled (slowing rate of water output). Whatever filter you get remove any carbon and replace it with biomedia such as seachem matrix or ceramic rings. How many gallons is your tank? Bettas need at least 2.5 gallons but the bigger the better because it will help keep your parameters stable. Also test strips are not that accurate so I would highly suggest getting the liquid test kit. Here are the links for everything I recommend. I hope your guy starts healing soon! Fin rot's best treatment is clean warm water. Maybe lay off the medicines for now because they can be harsh on their organs.
http://fins.actwin.com/mirror/begin-cycling.html
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f12/fish-in-cycling-step-over-into-the-dark-side-176446.html
http://www.amazon.com/Jardin-Aquarium-Cylinder-Sponge-Filter/dp/B005LMQCW2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1425449975&sr=8-2&keywords=sponge+filter
http://www.amazon.com/Matrix-500-mL-7-1-oz/dp/B004PBD4J4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1425449994&sr=8-4&keywords=biomedia
http://www.amazon.com/API-Freshwater-Master-Test-Kit/dp/B000255NCI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425450046&sr=8-1&keywords=api+liquid+test+kit

Wet food naturally has moisture so cats will drink less anyways.

After my cat had a urinary obstruction, I also switched to wet food. In addition, I add a little filtered water to their wet food to increase its moisture even more (like an 1/4 cup per can) and I got a pet fountain. The cats now have plenty of moisture in their diet, and while they do drink less than with wet food, I still see them playing with the fountain and licking water from their paws / drinking from it occasionally. I know you already have one, but I got this one and it's awesome and super easy to clean. Maybe it might be worth switching it up?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0037NKDSG/ref=zg_bs_2975263011_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=W5GYSRYZ2RJ9ZNBFDFKT

Also, don't keep your water directly next to the food supply- cats have a natural instinct to find clean water, and avoid water sources near their killed prey to minimize contamination. Try moving the water further away and see if it helps!

I'm so glad your cat is alright!

My 1 year old Havanese has never been cut. We put his hair up with a hair tie so it's not in his eyes and he gets a bath once a week, brushed nightly, and sees a professional bi weekly.

This is the brush I use, Its pretty standard.

Here's the de-matting tool - This is a super important piece to the home grooming puzzle. It will allow you trim the matts into smaller matts that can be brushed out. I highly recommend watching several youtube videos of people using it so you don't hurt your little guy.

Detangling spray - I use this at every brushing. I use one hand to push his hair up and i pat and swoop the hair down to make sure I get every little hair on his body. It's a process.

and finally Leave-on conditioner - I give him baths with a 2 in 1 puppy shampoo and then i use this leave-on conditioner. Hydrated hair knots less so using as much moisturizers as you can will help.

​

I understand I spend a lot of time and money on my dogs hair, but for me, I wasn't going to spend thousands of dollars on a purebred to just shave him. I want my purebred to look like a purebred and he's the happiest boy ever! I hope this helps!

Our house isn't rat-proofable in any practical way, so we set up a playpen for them to play in and change it up every day so they don't get bored.
After a lot of looking around I chose this type of setup. I used the zip ties that came with the set (and at first when they were little reinforced the panels with gorilla tape in case they wanted to try to squeeze between them) and we fold the whole thing up and store it in the box when we are done with free play time.

We have a small litter pan that we keep in the pen when they are out playing. Most of the time they don't need it, but they have used it. We also have an 8x8in metal baking pan that we fill about halfway with water for them to drink or just play in. Sometimes I toss in peas or blueberries for them to go after. Often they just like knocking each other into the water if they are sitting on the edge. :)

Mine don't seem to be cable chewers but two of the three put holes in fabric in seconds. When they aren't in the playpen I will take one out at a time and plunk down with them on the couch. I just have to watch carefully they don't get down inside it or chew it.

Read a lot before you get rats. There is a lot to learn, but they aren't difficult once you understand what you are getting into. This reddit has a lot of helpful info and I found a lot of good resources online as well.

Fluorescent tubes sure have the ideal shape. It's sad they don't have the ideal light output.
I can't really say what intensity is achieved at X distance, but it will be all your plants care about.
The best way to find out is to measure the light intensity with a LUX meter and regulate height of pots and distance to lamp, based on what values you are getting. Peppers will probably like 2-4x intensity compared to what your micros will prefer and that can be regulated by distance. If it's difficult to reach the intensity your pepper(s) will need to thrive, you can always boost with a 9-14w LED household bulb wherever a little extra light is needed. For example, a cheap and simple clamp light, together with a 1500lm LED bulb will provide a good intensity over a 1'x1' area. Those two examples were picked randomly. You can choose whatever brand and kelvin you like.

I'm allergic to cats, so I'll share a couple of things that helped me live with two cats for several years.

Wash them every week or so, not because cats need baths every week, but because it will greatly reduce the amount of allergens deposited on furniture, the floor, and in the air. I used a mild puppy/kitten shampoo for mine, or sometimes even johnson & johnson's no more tears shampoo.

Get a furminator. There are also off-brands. It's not battery operated or anything, but it's the only grooming tool/brush I needed or used.

If he can keep them out of his bedroom, that would be ideal.

If he can afford it, whether he has carpet or hardwood, a roomba is absolutely wonderful. It'll self vacuum the carpets/floors every day and that'll keep a lot of allergens out of the air. If not, vacuuming/sweeping daily is a good idea.

Didn't mean to go on a tangent, but some of those tips might help a lil'.

Take care, and your friend rocks :)

I'm so sorry you're having to treat infections, it sounds like your cat has a more severe case! :( I am happy to tell you what has worked for us.

To cure this particular flare-up, we added water to her food for hydration and gave her some tuna (more pungent so she would eat it even with her nose clogged).

We also purchased this moving water fountain. She slurps out of that thing where she wouldn't even look at her water bowl before. We also ran a humidifier for a while. She might have been on the up and up anyway, but all of this seemed to do the trick.

I mainly try to reduce her stress by keeping everything consistent, especially the kind of litter I use. If you're not already, do consider using a dust-free corn based litter like World's Best. Their lungs are smaller and the dust can really aggravate them.

Anitra's Vitamineral Mix is something you might want to look into as a wet food supplement. I considered using Feliway like one poster here suggested, but the price kind of kept me from pulling the trigger and we've been fortunate to not have another outbreak.

You might have known all of this already, in which case just ignore me, but I really hope your kitty gets feeling better. The Natural Cat is a book that really helped me after I first adopted. I don't agree with everything she prescribes and she's big on holistic treatments (avoiding the vet and medication as much as possible) but the lady knows her cats and I think everyone has something to learn. When nothing else has worked, it might be worth a shot! Take care!

I just wanted to say, it sucks that this responsibility was thrust upon you but you seem like a great person who is really trying to do the best for his betta!

I know you said you're low on money, but sometimes Petsmart or Petco will have a dollar per gallon sale so you can get a 5 gallon for $5 or 10 gallon for $10 (I actually only have a 3 gallon because I am a poor college student, but plan on upgrading as soon as I graduate).

I have a more expensive heater to keep the tank at a stable temperature but before that I used this one and a cheap thermometer.

Your betta will be ok! It seems that you are trying your best for him and bettas are more resilient than we think :)

Sounds like fin rot to me, but it's hard to tell without a picture. Treatment for fin rot involves adding aquarium salt (1 tsp/gallon) to his tank with 100% water changes every day.

Sponge filters are great (I have this one) because they are small, make little to no current, and make great places for beneficial bacteria to grow when cycling a tank. Which brings me to my next point:

In a 5.5 gallon tank, cycling is important. Here's a guide to fish-in cycling with bettas. Once it's cycled, you'll want to just do 50% water changes once a week. Don't ever rinse gravel because it kills your beneficial bacteria that work to eat up the ammonia and convert it to less harmful substances, which is what makes a cycled tank so great!

Also, real plants are AMAZING. They use the waste that bettas produce as food. There are several plants that are very low-maintenence and can make a world of difference in water quality of your tank. Plus, you can get them for really cheap online (I've had luck with ebay!).

I'm not sure what budget you're working with, but with the fitness/snowboarding interest, maybe a camelbak would be a good gift! I think it'd be fun to throw in a gift or two for their dog, too. You could get a hide-a-squirrel or a tricky treat ball.

I'm a fan too. I and several friends have this big bad boy, but they have smaller ones too. Actually, I have a smaller one of theirs upstairs and the bigger one downstairs. They aren't the most stylish but they get the job done.

Mine have stood up pretty well. The smaller one is a bit less steady than the bigger one, probably because it has a smaller base compared to height. It also probably wasn't put together as well.

I wouldn't call them the sturdiest of cat trees, though. Mine have held up relatively fine, except that the sisal has come unwrapped on one of the posts. And though the mice-on-a-string on mine have held up surprisingly well despite getting beat up routinely, most everyone else I know have had their mice strings break from cat abuse.

Still, they're my favorite, they are relatively cheap for the size and my cats seem to love leaping about them. They are second only to window perches for things that my cats enjoy.

They require 88f minimum on the cool side, ideally 90f for proper digestion. Since they're cold blooded they rely on the temperatures in their environment to do basic metabolic functions such as digest. So I'd recommend grabbing an under tank heater, a thermostat to control it, and maybe a decent little thermometer, sounds like you're using a wall dial that can be tough to read and are always inaccurate. Getting the temperatures right is really important for keeping reptiles, otherwise they can get sick or worse quickly, but luckily once you have those temps set they're easy to maintain. Woudl recommend just double checking the link under "basic care" down on our side bar, it can fill you in on a bit more like the calcium supplements they need as well. If you have any questions let me know! I'm going to add a few links to the items I'm mentioning

https://www.reddit.com/r/leopardgeckos/comments/9qig1m/gecko_belly_ive_had_my_gecko_about_two_weeks_and/

https://www.amazon.com/Century-T7-FBA_BNQ-T7H-Thermostat-Germination/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540265142&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=reptile+thermostat&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Digital-Terrarium-Thermometer/dp/B000MD3MFA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1540265132&sr=8-6&keywords=reptile+thermometer

Well that depends on the size. I think anything under 5 gallons would be easy enough to move, but it will cause the fish stress if you have them. I suggest getting an all in one kit if you're not going to do anything more than some easy plants, shrimp, and a few hearty fish. Spec V is a good talk that's also easy to transport.

Also to answer one if your questions, yes I think a fish tank is a great addition to a classroom or School setting. As long as you can keep it safe where kids wouldn't tamper with it if they felt mischievious.

Looking to buy my sons and I our first Betta fish. They are 9 and 3 and I think it is something that we can enjoy together while teaching them some responsibility and work ethic in the process. Not looking to spend an arm and a leg, but would like the nicest setup available for $100 or less (including filter system and heater). I've linked a couple of aquariums below, but feel free to steer me in the direction of some others and/or better deals/quality. We are limited on space, so I won't be able to do anything more than a 5g tank. I've never owned fish, so I'm a complete noob here. Any and all help is appreciated!!!

http://www.petsmart.com/fish/supplies/aquariums-and-stands/aquariums/elive-3-gallon-aquaponics-semi-circle-aquarium-kit-40418.html?cgid=300065

Tetra 29095 Cube Aquarium Kit, 3-Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CA7W7E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_s4p.ybQZFS8V8

Penn Plax Curved Corner Glass Aquarium Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0069RR2CC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_y5p.ybJPG54RG

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hawkeye-5-Gallon-Panaview-Aquarium-with-LED-Lighting-and-Power-Filter/55134441

I never imagined that I would be a fish owner, but I have found myself with one, and I have a huge soft spot for all animals, so I can't stand to see them neglected so I want to provide the best home the little guy I can! Here is the list of what I've gotten so far. Let me know what you think and if I have made any mistakes!

Aquarium Rocks

He already has ~5lbs so I figure 10 lbs should cover a 5 gallon tank pretty well.

Betta Balls

Gravel Vacuum

Seachem Prime

Thermometer

Heater for 5 gallon tank

5 Gallon Tank

API Freshwater Test Kit

He already has a betta log, betta hammock, a small decorative plant, Tetra betta pellets, and some bloodworms for treats. Hopefully this covers all bases for little Zazoo! (Yes, my gf named him after the bird from the Lion King. Lol) If you have any other tips for a complete beginner, I'd love to hear them! Thank you for your suggestions!

I just wanted to say-- thank you so much for taking time to learn about betta's and not just go off of what the general population seems to think.

One additional suggestion-- make sure that any plants you offer are either silky or live plants. The plastic ones will tear up their fins. You can often find nicer silky ones in the reptile sections of pet stores or Amazon rather than the fish. Like this one for example. It also offers lots of hidey space, which betta love!

The hanging /suction cup silk plants in the reptile section could also be neat, though I've never used them in a tank personally. It might be cool to have a plant sort of trailing down in a corner.

They definitely should have a filter, but make sure it's not too strong of one. You might be better with an under gravel filter or two small filters. Also-- make sure you buy a temperature gauge. You want to check regularly to make sure the heater is still working properly-- 75-80F water always feels cool to the skin so it's hard to tell.

I haven't seen anyone give an extensive, quick, and friendly guide so here's a quick one!

You're going to need a 5.5 gallon in order for him to thrive, otherwise you're gonna have a very unhappy fish who might live but will not be doing good. An aquarium is a tiny ecosystem in an enclosed space, so a .5 gallon gets very toxic, very quickly. It'll hurt his gills, it'll hurt his fins, just everything. The ammonia will buildup quickly and reach very dangerous levels, and although 100% water changes will decrease that, an established bacteria colony (made up of harmless ones) needs to be there for the fish to really be healthy!

When you see a happy and healthy betta, you will never want to go back!

Cheap quick solution for now: Five gallon Rubbermaid from Walmart, this filter, paired with this air pump, and this connector tube. It will run you about $20, and can hold for a while!

Long Term: Buy a 5.5 standalone aquarium tank from Petsmart (only $14.99) and a little pack of gravel, and some live plants of your choice! Check our r/aquaswap for some cheap plants from other Reddit users. Just move over the filter and heater, and you have the perfect set up! There are also some cheap lighting solutions that you can buy to help your plants grow!

Everyone gets tricked in the beginning, but making steps towards helping your betta will enhance his life so much! The whole set up, the filter/air pump/tubing and tank from petsmart, will cost you $27.48 since you've already got the heater!

If your heater is too small, I've got the link to a $6 one (which is $10 less than the cheapest at any pet store I've been to) on amazon that works perfectly and is recommended all the time on this sub.

As someone who loves both aquariums and interior design - please god no. Get a nice coffee table then put a nice rimless tank on top. Look at how pretty this one is. Put in a beautiful betta fish or fill it with shrimp. Good beginner fish.

EDIT: changed suggested tank, this one has a better filtration system. (It's also the same one I have.)

Hi! Thank you so much for sharing Jarrariums. I checked it out and it has tons of ideas and useful info. I'm not familiar with some of the terms you mentioned: spec, mods and spray bar. Forgive my ignorance, but I would love to learn so I can keep shrimp happy!

You can check the aquarium that I bought here

Thank you for all your help!

depends on if your wife is allergic to the cat itself or the dander. Dander you can sometimes get used to if it's the same cat (I'm allergic to cat dander and i've had cats my whole life. two weeks living with a cat and i'm acclimated to them and the allergies aren't bad.).

You can get a test at the doctor and talk to them about allergy shots or Rx-strength meds to take. Change your pillowcases often so she's not sleeping on a pile of cat fur and remember to wash your hands before touching your face/eyes.

Get a Furminator. It is the best de-shedding/brushing tool on the market. It takes off so much excess hair and dander and will help a LOT. Plus, cats LOVE getting brushed!

Febreeze has an allergen reducer spray. I can't verify how well it works and I wouldn't use it as the ONLY way to reduce allergies but it could be very helpful in certain areas like the bed or couch where the cat and your wife might share space consistently.

Invest in Lint Rollers to help keep fur off yourselves.

And know that there are certain times of year where your wife's allergies may flare up, regardless. I know mine do even though I've have the same cat for 9 years and my previous cat for 10. During the spring/fall I would be much worse than the rest of the time and had to amp up to claritin/benedryl.

I hope you can keep this wonderful kitty! And post pics!

I'm getting him this for his birthday :) Along with some tankmate friends. Any recommendations are greatly appreciated!

Also if someone know where to order live plants or decorations for a good price I'd greatly appreciate the links :)

Hannibal is my first fish ever, so I want the best for my little fighter!

Here are three products that I find to be invaluable in my life as a cat lady:



FURminator: This little tool removes so much hair, you'd think you could make another cat out of it. It's really useful during shedding season. They make them in various sizes for long and short-haired cats, as well as for dogs.



SmartCat Ultimate Scratching Post: This post is very solid and sturdy, which is great, since my cats like to launch themselves at it after running full speed from the other side of the house. If it were to be knocked over, they would freak out and never use it again. We've had it for three years with two cats that have all their claws, and it's still in great shape.



World's Best Cat Litter: This corn-based litter is more expensive than its clay-based counterparts, but it has many advantages: 1) It's not harmful to your cats if they ingest it--this can happen during grooming, or if your cat just randomly eats it. Same goes for kids. 2) It generates much less dust and offers good odor control. 3) In my own anecdotal experience, it lasts longer. 4) It's flushable, which is especially nice if you live in a small apartment (but I don't recommend flushing from a sub-level toilet that uses an ejection pump--learned that the hard way). 5) It's better from an environmental standpoint, since the clay for litter is gathered via strip mining.

Kongs are the simplest and its really easy to "level up". Start by just putting in dry kibble, then wet kibble, then freeze the wet kibble and seal up the big hole with yogurt or peanut butter. Then you can layer it so its frozen wet kibble, cheese, kibble, yogurt, kibble, peanut butter etc. It'll start taking longer and longer to get everything out. My pup loves the Kong Wobbler too! Not only does it tire him out, but it spreads out his meal so he doesn't eat it as fast. Same with the IQ ball. The puzzle board was great for awhile but then got too easy for him. Snuffle mats are pretty easy to DIY too if you don't want to fork over the money to buy a real one.

I would suggest that you definitely keep up the crate training. Are you putting treats in his crate when he goes in? Sometimes it's best to associate the crate with these types of positive reinforcements so he is more inclined to think the crate is a great place. If he has separation anxiety, I heard this heartbeat toy works quite well for young puppies.

My other suggestion is, the meantime, while you are crate training him, why don't you get one of these playpens if you have to leave him in the kitchen. That way he is at least away from the walls and in an enclosed space. If he starts to chew the playpen, you could spray it with this bitter spray which really helped my dog when he was teething.

Good luck!!

Well, it does is a hard challenge for a beginner, but doing a properly carpeted nano-Aquascape (~20l <=> ~5g <=> ~2.0 × 10^-2 m^3) with DIY CO2 and a small sponge filter is doable in <150$

A quick, small suggestion:

Tank, ~13l <=> 3.4g, 40$

Soil, 20$

Light, 40$

stones, 25$

Filter, 10$,


1 pot Monte carlo or some other easy carpet plant at your lfs: 8€

We‘re left with 7$ for ~4 RCS, I guess.

I assumed you construct you DIY CO2 from an old bottle with sugar and yeast, so 0$ effetivly.

For cycling and food some free samples of fish food does the job. When food rots it emits ammonia, that could be used for cycling.

So here we go, every thing ready for a nice iwagumi-aquascape. If you do well, it might looks like this (That Tank has HC as carpet, but Monte carlo looks similar)!

Well, if you‘re willing to put up a dozens of hours on studying to to properly keep a planted tank.

edit: Wrong link for tank, this was the one I mistakenly linked to. Still a nice, small tank, tho. Also some additions for clearance.

My goodness we could be twinsies. We seem to have the same taste in cat trees for one thing. I don't know about you, but I picked that specific tree because my little guy likes to explore high spaces, and loves hiding in boxes. So between the height and the enclosures, it seems perfect.

As for an item off my list I'd like, this weight watchers cook book would be perfect. The used one, of course.

My co-worker bought a betta for the office, and he's currently in a little .7 gallon plastic tank with one little plastic plant. I think he needs a better environment, so I am working on a shopping list based on research.

The tank needs to have a small footprint, and I want something that will be low-maintenance. (Not my fish! But I am willing to help keep Swatch happy and healthy)

I am looking at the Marineland Portrait Glass 5 Gallon - 5 seems quite large for the space, but I don't know if he would be as well off in a 2.5 or 3. (I like the 3 gallon Tetra cube, but it seems to be out of stock everywhere.)

Is this a good tank? I think I will also need a heater for winter, just in case.

I would like to get Swatch some little moss ball and an Anacharis plant or Java Fern. Is 5 gallons enough for a betta and a live plant? (Would 3 be enough for one fish and a live plant?)

At 5 gallons, is that enough for a tankmate (neon tetras? Ghost shrimp?) or should I let him live solo?

Also, I find the little suction-cup hammocks hilarious, so I plant to get one of those. And maybe a floating log.

So:
3 or 5 gallon tank
live plant
toys
tetras?

Does that sound like a good starting setup?

This is the sponge filter I currently have - SPonge

This is what I was looking to get (not at all sure) - FIlter

I forgot the exact name of the catfish but I believe they are Panda Catfish - or look very similar. This is 1 https://imgur.com/OkgmIJj the other one look exactly the same but about half again as big.

​

I hve 2 air pumps. 1 came with the 3 gallon tank set up I got on Amazon - see Here (just realized its a 3 gallon not a 5)

And then I purchased an air pump - Pump

And maybe I got the name wrong for the glofish, the pet store I could swore said neon tetra on the tank but I have those and definitely not that - https://imgur.com/8xNmjPi .EDIT- You can see them better in the OP picture if you click on it. Reason I ask is because my Betta was going after them the first day and they seemed SUPER chill. I haven't seen them try to nip at anything so far. Although its been 3 days. Also the catfish was in the tank w them so I figured they would get a long.

​

OK so the guy in the petstore told me i can have up to 20 fish in the 10 gallon. It's a private store not petco or petsmart/petland etc. Is that not the case then? I don't want to crowd my tank I was just planning on getting 2 more colors of the "Glofish" and that was probably going to be it.

​

Thanks!!

sometimes it is really hard to enforce a "you can't go there" rule. We have three dogs, and they do things all the time that they know they aren't allowed to, you can see they feel guilty about, but they do it anyway (like children).

We have a baby gate that has a swinging door we can walk though, and the door itself has a cat door ( like this ) that we use to keep the dogs out of our front room that has the cat box.

Maybe get something like this to use as a training tool or stepping stone until you can fully train your dog? Also, with having the door itself there it is simple to walk though, and the cats can go through the bottom.

Although it's simple enough to say "the dog should know what they can and can't do, why aren't they doing it?" sometimes we have to provide some help to them as well. If this is a new home with new animals it could be a real challenge for her pup. I know when my boyfriend (two dogs) and I (one dog) moved in together, we had a lot of challenges to overcome to get into a happy household groove.

Edit

I have been a dog owner my whole life; and most of the dogs I've had have gotten into cat food any chance they have gotten, and will eat as much of it as they can physically handle. Something about it makes them go crazy. Having a gate like this gives the kitties a safe place to be away from the dog if they want (that's one reason we have it at our house) and it keeps the dog from eating the cat food. Some dogs will just always eat it, doesn't matter the consequences.

Both my dogs LOVE this toy Hide-A-Squirrel, its great because you can stuff it with a ton of toys and it keeps the dog occupied for a while trying to pull all the toys out. It's really popular on Amazon as well.

Another good classic option would be a Kong and treats to fill it like hard treats or soft treat.

I would actually establish his 5-gallon tank with a fishless cycle, and set him up a small temporary "hospital tank" to treat the fin rot in the meantime.

I always prefer to move my fish to a small, bare tank for medication that doesn't have an established filter, because medication can crash your cycle. So for his permanent home, I would start on a fishless cycle by setting everything up with the gravel, filter, etc and add some ammonia like this to get the fishless cycle going. You can follow the directions on the bottle and use your water test kit to test for ammonia in the water to determine when the cycle has established, and ammonia levels are safe again.

While the tank is cycling, set up a medicated hospital tank (in fact you can do this now before you set up his man tank so that you can start treating his fin rot before it gets too severe.) Set up a small bare tank with a heater set to about 80 degrees fahrenheit/about 26 celcius. Add a little freshwater aquarium salt, and dose an antibacterial medication like Melafix for the fin rot.

Hospital tanks shouldn't have carbon filters, since carbon will just remove medications. You simply need to do daily water changes with clean, treated water (I recommend Seachem Prime for dechlorination and removing heavy metals. Even better if the water is also carbon filtered.) Remember when you change water you have to add medication and salt back in. You can add a small sponge filter to a hospital tank if you want just to keep water flowing and to filter out debris, I use this little filter for my hospital tank.

Lastly, but still very important: When you move him, you'll have to acclimate him slowly. Bag him up in a Ziplock bag with the water from his vase. Float the bag in the hospital tank (preferable already at 80 degrees) so that he can slowly acclimate to the temperature, and add a little bit of the hospital tank water to his bag every 5 to 10 minutes. I would take about 30 minutes to let him acclimate before releasing him in the tank. Acclimation is important because temperature and parameter change can cause shock.

What a tough little guy. I'm impressed he's been able to pull through in these terrible conditions. That water must be absolutely toxic. Best of luck to you in helping him pull through!

Clamp lights are great, you can clamp them anywhere (also called can lights in some places Simple Deluxe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E9IY6US/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mb8ezb1KVT9QS). So you can stick it onto the tripod. Or if you have the PC on a desk and your webcam is placed on the monitor, pointed toward you, you can attach it to the desk, really anywhere. And if the light is too bright and your picture is blown out, throw on some white, heat resistant oven paper/parchment and attach it with a wood clothespin. This will diffuse the light, softening it and creating less harsh shadows creating a more pleasing look.

If you are going to be playing console games, like your Xbox, you will need a capture card such as the ElGato HD60s, Razer Ripsaw, or Aver Media. These capture the HDMI Out signal, pass it through to the tv, and then by USB takes the signal to your computer. Or if you want to try and play PC games, you will just need OBS. OBS is a good software to have anyway if you are using a capture card, you can add the capture card into an OBS scene, add your webcam, maybe some graphics and twitch alerts as well.

Before you first introduce the three dogs, make sure the pit mix is thoroughly tired out. If he's old enough, your friend should take him on a nice long jog to expend his energy. This will make him calmer and more likely to see your dogs as friends rather than playmates (or toys).

Then take them on a group walk together. This is important because it is neutral ground. If you were to bring the pit mix directly into your place, your dogs would likely respond territorially. That puts them on the defense, and puts all the dogs on edge. The group walk will put them on the same "team," so to speak.

Make sure there's a place where the small dogs can escape from the pitty if he's being too energetic or too physical with them. They make baby gates with a smaller door that you can open or close to let your pups through. This is an example of what you would want to get. This way your dogs have an escape route and won't feel trapped with the larger dog.

You won't need to change it ever, just clean it/rinse it with used (non-chlorinated!) tank water while you're doing tank maintenance every so often. (I clean my betta's sponge filter real good once or twice a month by giving it a few good squeezes in a bucket of used water before I throw it out.)

Basically you'll want a small air pump like this along with a tank-size appropriate sponge filter. I recommend one like this *and some airline tubing to connect them :)

Tollers are great. I have a Toller and a Newf, and while the Newf is far more loving and an all around better "people dog", I love my Toller for all her quirks.

Like /u/Phog91 said, Long trails and wide open fields combined with a Chuckit is the best thing you can do. The Newf strolls along with me while the Toller loses her mind running around, fetching.

It's more depends on the floor space and the shape of the tank, than on gal. Larger floor pace is better, 2.5-3 gal will allow to keep more shrimp, neocaridinas are reproducing fast. Even 1 gal bowl could be used, but try to see your shrimp there. The same setup is described as a Walstad method in Jarrariums subreddit.

I wouldn't use sphere, too little floor space.

Cylinder better to be at least 10" diameter.

I was able to get 12" wide shallow clear glass punch bowl in the Value Village, but this is a matter of luck.

Walmart should have half moon aquarium kit, 3 gal, looks good, small footprint (13x6" or so), good enough for my more than 60 blue dream neocaridinas (moss tank with vertical aquascaping and moss wall, aLift sponge filter). Or at least 1.5 gal cube, fair enough, but you can keep there less shrimp. Kits include air pump and air driven filter, light is too weak for plants, use desktop lamp. Amazon.ca has 3 gal version of it.

But if you have Big Al's store nearby, you can get 5 gal glass tank (with black rim) for CND $20, or a rimless 12" cube for $40-45. Tanks in $100+ price range could be ordered online.

Canadian PetSmart has either worse tanks or more expensive, at least it is so near me.

Either use Walstad method with rooted plants, or as Marks Shrimp Tanks on youtube.

Tom Aquatics internal filter could be used without cage, just protect intake by gutter guard mesh with filter floss, it's the smallest available pump. Or, if tank is not a sphere, Azoo Mignon 60 HOB filter. Sponge filters are the cheapest and provide grazing area for the shrimp, but they take place in the tank. If you would be using this, vertical kind would be more suitable than the chunky wide common sponge filters.

Air pump with tubing, without air stone, could be used for moving water.

A couple of things - nothing huge and nothing any one individual did for me specifically. I'm one of those shutdown people - it sucks as much as you'd expect. But...my leasing office has agreed to let any of us effected negotiate a payment plan to cover rent after the government opens back up. So basically, if I can't pay rent - I can make it up to them in small increments later. Then, there are a lot of companies giving away things at a huge discount OR completely free to people like me (I've seen restaurants, hotels, and EVEN a company giving away free vibrators) just to try and help cushion the blow.

Honestly, this would be awesome, as I'm trying to teach myself to groom my dogs, that way I don't have to decide between forking over $120 at the groomer or letting my dogs get matted and shaggy and sad.

When you get a dog that requires grooming, you must not be "scared of hurting him". You won't hurt him if you use the right tools and you're patient. If you try brushing him and he wiggles around a little, that just means he's unsure. You aren't hurting him, promise. You have to brush your dog, and using that tool above, you are not using the right brush, at all. You would never need that type of brush for a cavapoo. Those brushes are designed for short hair dogs with undercoats-- that is a deshedding comb.

Your first step would be to take the dog to a professional groomer, and bite the bullet for the cost. Although typically unless your dog is a real handful, at least in my area the cost for a cavapoo ranges from $45.00 up. Depends on where you go, really. There is no way to get 'dreadlock' mats out of the coat save for shaving them away completely. To try to comb those out is extremely painful for the dog. From there, keep up with the brushing yourself. You will have to get this dog clipped if not every six weeks, every eight weeks, roughly. As you said this dog doesn't shed its hair, it just keeps growing. Even with regular maintenance you'll be looking at a little mophead eventually.

Please, take him to a groomer. Look up groomers in your area and find the one with the best reviews for being gentle and patient. Dematting even through shave downs can be stressful on the dog if they're very bad, although they're by far the gentlest option.

I am a groomer, and just as a tip for the future here are the tools I would use to take care of this pup.

• Firm Slicker Brush. You need something with longer bristles to get through his thicker coat, and something that won't bend as soon as you start brushing. When you brush, use gentle pressure so that you aren't scratching him.
  
• Soft Slicker Brush. For less intensive brushing around sensitive areas like the muzzle, ears, tail, paws, and belly.
  
• De-matting Comb. Used to maintain the coat before any bad mats occur. This comb has blades on it and cuts through clumps of hair gently. Do not use this if mats are down to the skin!
  
• Metal Comb. A wide-tooth and fine-tooth comb, used just as you would use a comb. Use the slicker first to kind of 'loosen' the coat a bit, then go through with the wide-toothed side, then the fine-toothed side.
  
  Make sure you're combing through his tail, ears, and muzzle as well as those are all prone to matting also. Check between his toes, as that area with dogs with a lot of hair like him also gets matted up quickly.
  
  Best of luck and I hope this helps.

I'll link you the ones I've had that I can find...

The go pet 72" tree has been our longest lasting one, looks to be $77. It has the stupid ramps, but overall is a pretty good design imo. My cats have not been interested in the lower "condo", but one does use the upper condo.

This is our most recently bought tree, the armarkat 74", which I don't recommend. It's not sturdy: the base is very small, and the two posts in the top half are right on top of each other.

I'll hunt around and see if I can find the model one of our cats peed on found it! It was also an armarkat. If you look at the picture, see that platform on the lower right, with short post and mini platform on it? Yeah that cracked in half pretty fast, it's only supported on one side. One of my cats also peed in the hammock, but she really loved sleeping in it until then.

The Fluval Chi might be a good tank, but might be more difficult to find a good light to fit it.

I'd recommend the ADA substrate system. It's more expensive than Fluval but ultimately worth it.

As for a filter, the tank I've suggested has one built in, but if you don't go for that, then YES! If you've got critters in it, filter the water. (Also get a heater!)

I'm currently running a Fluval Spec 19L using a combination of this substrate, along with the power sand and some other substrate additives (all sold on that site). I'm growing HC Cuba (dwarf baby tears) and it's doing well with plentiful CO2 using one of these and lots of light with two of these.

This is a really handsome tank right at what I'd consider the absolute minimum for a betta fish, that seems like it'd be great in an office environment. If you've more room, here's the 5-gallon version.

I'm a sucker for bettas. My last one had a ten gallon tank with live plants because I spoil my charges, but yeah.

I'm pretty sure that although scientists and teachers often keep axolotls in pretty small set ups, that they actually deserve tanks larger than what would be reasonable in an office environment, though they're my next dream pet personally.

Check out /r/aquariums!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTG94TH?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details

My boyfriend zip tied them together, except for the empty space. We have two more panels that can close him in entirely, but we only put them up when we are sleeping. It is open the rest of the time.

The zip ties are a great idea if you’re nervous about your rabbit knocking them over! I hope the solution works for you as well as it has for us 💕

It's been an unseasonably warm winter here so it's starting too.

The defurminator brush is really good for pulling loose hair. It's a robust grooming tool but even 2 minutes can get a handful of it.

Also for the super long haired coats, a groomer's comb is the best for separating the hairs down to the root and preventing mats.

I have four cats and those two tools along with a general slicker brush really help me manage. I had to shave down my maine coon due to gastrointestinal issues but still have two long haired cats and a short hair.

I ended up with the most energetic and playful Newfie in the world, and she loves to chase the cats so I have some experience in this.

• First, I never let the puppy out of my sight. She's in whichever room I'm in, if I leave she's in her crate. When I use the restroom or shower she's sitting in the bathroom doorway. If she tries to leave the room I call her back and give her a treat. She's pretty good about that.
  
• Second, there are parts of the house she's NEVER allowed in--the kitchen and the laundry room. The kitchen is where everyone's food is prepared and where the cats eat and drink, the laundry room is where their litterbox is.
  
• Third, my cats have lots of high places to go to if they don't want to be hassled. They have a cat tree, shelves, and they like to hang out on the back of the sofa (my dog doesn't like furniture, luckily).
  
• Forth, I recognize and reward when she ignores the cats, and call her to me if she's gets too close.
  
  Obviously all of this requires training and conditioning, but it was very worth the time. You can also get baby gates with a little pet door on the bottom. If your pup is especially unruly and disregards boundaries, gates like that are great.

Im not sure if I can see or not but I would like to suggest hammocks! Rats looove to be bundled up in a small space like in a hammock or a hangy thing.. Kinda like this http://www.amazon.com/Lixit-Critter-Space-Pod-Large/dp/B002X2NBNQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394481573&sr=8-2&keywords=rat+hammock they seem to love those space pod things xD. Seriously awesome cage though! I'm jealous!!

Beagles are not a violent breed, so you are safe for the most part. Where the playful friction gets to hissing and scratching is that beagles like to corner their prey and bay at it. Cats hate loud noises and being cornered, so this generally ends with the cat doing a face scratch. I have declawed cats (adopted that way), so this cycle repeats every few days. The one time we watched a clawed cat for friends, this was over quite quickly.

Also, consider a pet gate like this. Small door lets cats through but blocks dogs, very good escape hatch/tool to keep dog out of the garbage. Handle lets you through easy, great investment even without cats.

I have the Pioneer Raindrop fountain (here) for $30 and I use these filters. I only need to replace the filter once every one to two months. Totally worth it because of how much the cats love it, and it gives me peace of mind knowing that it's helping them stay healthy.

Our first cat, Roger (whom I originally bought the fountain for), was terrified of it at first. A month went by before he finally had the courage to drink from it, and then he quickly adored it. Unfortunately he passed away, and we adopted two kittens. Simon and Chloe instantly loved it as soon as we brought them home. So there's a chance she may hate it at first, but running water is very natural and appealing to cats. I think she would grow to like a fountain very quickly. :)

There is already a lot of good advice in this thread. Don't give in, feed her meals in her crate, etc. But here is something else you can try as well.

Before I got my puppy, I was browsing this sub and someone recommended this behavioral aid toy.

I ordered it and I think it worked great. At the very least, it made me feel better about tearing her away from her mom and litter mates! I used the heart ticker for a long time afterwards too just to calm her down for sleep time.

Strongly recommend anyone with a Maine coon (and anyone who likes to help their purrkid out grooming) gets a furminator


I know they are a bit pricy, but They are the best things ever and worth their weight in gold. My mom has a Norwegian snow cat and it’s the most gigantic fluff ball ever and the furminator is a godsend

the built-in light may be suitable for java fern, it can survive in almost no light at all, but growth will be slow. You may be able to add a clip light like this one if you want to encourage better growth.

You could try giving him a bath! That might help. Also please avoid lights. They can eventually hurt your baby’s eyes! Only use heating pads. The pinned post on this sub goes into detail about thermostats, (https://www.amazon.com/Century-Thermostat-Controller-Germination-40-108°F/dp/B01I15S6OM this is the one I use) and you need one to regulate the temperature your heat pad gets to so your Leo doesn’t get too hot or cold.

(the pinned post is full of info and absolutely everything you’ll need to know/purchase to give your guy a happy and healthy life 😊)

Edit if you knew all of this already I’m super not trying to sound condescending, just trying to throw out some tips!!

My recommendation is to buy a cheap reflector lamp and a high wattage grow bulb. If you want to go nicer (and more expensive) spring for a nice T5 bulb setup. As a first step, I would just do something like what I post below. It is effective and cheap. I really recommend not getting one of those tiny LED ones because they usually are super low power and help your plant less for your money.

https://www.amazon.com/Full-Spectrum-Hydroponic-Light-60W32/dp/B01L0GV2ZY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1493998601&sr=8-3&keywords=grow+bulbs+60+watt

https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Deluxe-HIWKLTCLAMPLIGHTM-8-5-Inch-Reflector/dp/B01E9IY6US/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1493998736&sr=1-2&keywords=reflector+lamp

• Labs are notoriously fast eaters, so maybe a puzzle toy? Here are some good ones: 1, 2, 3. You can also never have enough Kongs, and they're sold at big box pet stores.
  
• A cool fetch toy might be fun too, like a Chuckit or a Ball-on-a-Rope. You can find Chuckit products at the big box pet stores. I like the ball-on-a-rope for training...I can throw it, tug with it, dangle it like a flirt pole, and it fits in my pocket. This Frisbee is good for training too because I can fold it up and put it in my pocket. Plus it glows in the dark and floats!

We bought this monster castle from Amazon. It's $120 now but I think we paid $99 at the time. Well worth it at either price. 2 cats, and the both love it. Gets them high off the ground, out of dog range. Huge. You need a good 3x3 spot for it at least.

We use the large KONG Extreme Dog Toy, Medium, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GUDZO2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sQ81AbHCEGYVC, trixies flipboard 2 TRIXIE Pet Products Flip Board, Level 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0054Q9TMA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RR81AbJEX56X9. treat ball OurPets IQ Treat Ball Interactive Food Dispensing Dog Toy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ARUKTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oS81AbJ0XDRE8, a treat hiding thing Dog Smart Treat Dispensing Dog Toy Brain and Exercise Game for Dogs by Nina Ottosson https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0711Y9Y8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MS81AbJWBH0TC, a rolling nibble kibble PetSafe Busy Buddy Kibble Nibble Meal Dispensing Dog Toy, Medium/Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F0RRUA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FT81AbYG9PW7N, a self toy KONG Rambler Ball, Large (colors vary) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BBGRT4Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wU81AbYC200R4, and a large tug a jug PetSafe Medium/Large Sportsmen Tug A Jug Pet Chew Toy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K4KZ8M0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LV81AbFBTP67F.

The kong I use spread treats inside because dry treats last only a few seconds.

Trixies flipboard is low to meh at getting her attention, sometimes she doesnt care for the food to bother with it.

Iq treat ball she finds a way to break, pushing into a wall, chomping on it, the moment you look away.

The hide a treat thing is easy for her.

The nibble kibble is the same as the treat ball.

The kong rambler she easily pulls the ball from its station and the toy is moot, now its just a ball.

The tug a jug becomes a weapon that she whips around until it smashes open.

The one thing I have noticed that can keep her attention is a pile of wood we have outside. Inside that pile of wood is chipmunks and squirrels that she messes with until I call her over. I'm thinking that she enjoys live toys? Or does she it as just something for her to herd.

Just brushed out our dog with this. Loved it, he has long hair and it did the trick. (Labradoodle)

I LOVE our hand vacuum. I get annoyed with dusting things that don’t really do the trick because I can still see things floating around. But I really see things get sucked with this guy.

Third the roomba suggestion. I forget the brand we have but it’s so easy to leave it on while we leave for the day. The legs get stuck or fall off around the apartment here or there so that’s annoying.

I got a steam mop Wednesday for my laminate floors. Meh. I don’t know how I feel about it. I was expecting miracle worker given what I’ve read on this Reddit group. But I also cheaped out and bought a highly rated one because it was $20 off so $40 total compared to some $80-$120 alternatives. I linked it below but now it’s only $10 off so I don’t know if I’d recommend going with it. But my boyfriend did remark it looks like no one has walked on our floors and it’s a good way to finish off a vacuum.

Safari De-Matting Comb for Dogs,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ARR2W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

BISSELL Pet Hair Eraser Lithium Ion Cordless Hand Vacuum, Purple https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CB6RBSP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_u08NDbAC66TT4

Steam Mop Cleaner ThermaPro Elite 12 in 1 for Hardwood/Tiles/Vinyl/Carpet - Easy-Detachable Handheld Steam Cleaner for Kitchen - Garment - Furniture and Clothes, Multifunctional Whole House Steamer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VPRGLK7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_o.8NDbWDTKKCS

DIY - freeze some kibble/treats in a Popsicle, put some kibble/treats in an empty water bottle (our dog really likes the really cheap/thin ones that crinkle when squeezed), take a muffin tin and put kibble/treats in the holes and put tennis balls on top of them (we started with a mini muffin tin so the tennis balls just sat on top of the holes so they were easy to remove, then when he was good at that, we moved to a regular muffin tin)

Commercial - Kong, Kong Wobbler, Trixie Toys (lots of options), Omega Ball, Hide-a-Squirrel, Tornado

If you haven't already, read these books; I can't stress enough how much they saved our lives. Perfect Puppy in 7 Days and Before and After Getting your Puppy. They're highly recommended here and for good reason.

Yeah, I'd figure you'd have until October. Then you'd have to do something to ensure they have heat. If you went up just slightly to a bigger tank, you could have a heater in it then. And really 1 gallon is not large enough for shrimp. I have two 2.5 gallon aquariums for shrimp. I would not go lower than that. Shrimp are very sensitive to fluctuations and even weekly water changes should be be done slowly so as not to shock them. That is really the smallest I'd go. If you go that route, you can grab a 5 watt Cobalt Aquatics heater (better than any other out there at that size).

And you'll still need a filter. You can either get a tiny [HOB filter] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HV2ZKEU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) or a small sponge filter with a separate airpump (so that may depend on space on your desk).

Oops, just noticed your other questions. So, if you want to go with the hang on back filter I mentioned above, you'll get a little spongy cover for the water intake and you'll probably be ok with it. However if you decided you didn't want an HOB, but a separate sponge filter with air pump, the Tetra Whisper 10 air pump is quieter than any of the other small air pumps you'll find out there. And here's a nice [sponge filter] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005LMQCW2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1). You'll also need a little bit of airline hose to connect the two if you decide to go the sponge route. If you go the HOB route you can still have a [prefilter sponge] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002LL32RY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and this Fluval one actually is precut and totally fits this HOB tube!

Anyway, good luck!

I have the same Exo Terra that I set up in November. Once you get the substrate in there, you're going to need tiny plants as even many miniatures will look huge and take up lots of room. I have these species in mine: Bulb. catenulatum, Dendrochilum quadrilobium, E. polybulbon, Den. oligophyllum, Haraella retrocalla and a jewel orchid I can't remember (that will out grow the tank). I also have Pilea glauca and Peperomia meridiana. The Pilea forms a beautiful mat and grows quickly - I really recommend it. The Peperomia also needs frequent pruning. I also bought some cheap live sheet moss off eBay to provide accents - however, if you are patient- moss will grow in without much seeding. I light it with this: Finnex FugeRay Planted+ Clip Light but you could probably easily light it for a cheaper DIY set up.

Genera you should check out are Dryadella, Porroglossum, Scaphosepalum, Masdevalli, Lepanthes, Pleurothallis, Bulbophyllum, Phalaenopsis, Schoenorchis, Encyclia, Epidendrum, Dendrobium, Aerangis and Restrepia - there are some super minis in all these groups and most have some members that are tolerant of a wide range of conditions or, at least, wherever your conditions fall.

When I am planning out a terrarium and the species I want in it, I typically start at Andy's Orchids and used his power search feature to find miniatures within my conditions. Then I end up trying to find images of them that show the whole plant size - one person's miniature does not necessarily line up with mine so I want a visual.

Sure!

My partner built him something like this.

I also got him these two puzzles that I only give him when I'm home, just for safety reasons: this "level 2" one that he solved in 30 seconds and this "level 3" one that he hasn't quite gotten the opening drawer part down yet.

He also has this treat ball that he LOVES, but I don't recommend if you live in an apartment/condo with hard floors.

His favorite that he carries around and chucks down our stairs to open is this mushroom.

He also gets kongs with peanut butter in them.

Amazon gets a lot of my money. Lol.

Necessities

api liquid test kit

sponge filter

airline tubing for sponge filter

air pump for sponge filter

thermometer

fluval spec v kit. Comes with filter, decent light that can grow some lowlight plants, idk what else but I hear it's pretty good, I would look around on other sites to find it cheaper

dechlorinator if you don't already have it

heater, I happen to live somewhere where the temperature of my tank floats right in the bettas range, but if this isn't the case for you then you'll need a heater

You'll need something for a lid, can't find anything on amazon but you have a few options: going to a petstore and looking for a 5 gallon lid, going to other websites to look, or making a DIY lid, which can be done with greenhouse panels, or even wood if you don't mind cutting.

Substrate is optional, but if you want it you can either get pool filter sand, which you can find at your local Home Depot or lowes (assuming you're in the US), you'll have to rinse it first but it's really cheap, $8 for 50lb which is more than enough.

I would buy the tank in person at a store or on some site like Craigslist where you can find used tanks for cheap

Also, don't forget to cycle your tank, if you don't know what that is I would do some research on it, it's possibly the most important thing in keeping any aquatic creature

Off the top of my head, will continue to edit to add stuff

Agree with everyone here. Got this for my cat when he was about 6 months. He didn't have a problem before but he always liked the shower water, so I figured I'd try it. He loves it so much he plays and splashes in it (but also drinks!). Highly recommended.

I have one of these in plastic, which isn't a bad idea if you aren't sure about it yet. http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-Pet-Stainless-Fountain-Raindrop/dp/B0037NKDSG/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1369948231&sr=1-3&keywords=pet+fountain

If you are unsure about your ammonia levels, I would not add fish. Retest, and make sure you follow the instructions on the test kit to the letter. If you are still unsure, but suspect it is zero, you can force an ammonia spike with this stuff, then retest and track your levels with an easier to read ammonia color. Good luck, and I hope your tank is cycled and ready!

I don't have an issue with a $45 pet gate. The pet gate in particular, if you read the post, is only an issue because my family members who have grown up on a farm and taken care of dozens of animals think I would be babying the cat by placing these protective measures. Since I am living in their house at the moment, it would be a little difficult to override, but not impossible. The first thing I am going to do upon getting the cat is indeed to bring it to the vet.

To give an example of what an appropriate expense is (to me), I've already bought this water bowl for her. It's $42, but I would be willing to do this to prevent her from getting UTIs or anything else associated from dehydration. No one would comment on it, because it's unobtrusive. The gate on the other hand, cordoning off places that people actually walk through, is going to bring me a lot of trouble. As I've already stated, it's trouble I'm willing to deal with. They are not unreasonable people, but there is a cultural difference.

All I am asking is what the best option in this type of situation seems to be, since most of the advice I've researched on the internet seems to be directed at adult or baby kittens; not 6 month old cats. (Somewhat in between?)

If she got sick, there would be no expenses spared. I am well within my means to support a cat.

Which other part of the story sounds like an unideal environment? Why do you feel that I am rushing it? I am genuinely concerned; please do not take these questions as a defensive retort.

Do you feel that based on what you read, I should not be adopting a cat at all?

The purpose of the original topic was to ask whether or not I should seclude the cat: if anything an answer to this question in particular would be deeply appreciated.

ALSO it just occurred to me, would a pet gate even keep in a six month old cat?

Keep the cat in your own room.

Failing that, people are allergic to cat dander which originates from their saliva, not their fur/hair. There are specially made anti-allergy shampoo's for cats that specifically help with getting rid of said dander. The cat will not like this, but it does seem to help. Remember to wash the cat with luke warm water to the touch, anything else is probably too hot/cold. I would also purchase several HEPA filters and put them in various rooms. Comb the cat with this several times a week (trust me, other combs are not the same and not worth your time). I also picked up a Dyson animal vacuum for good measure but that may be overkill. Good luck!

http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-StingRAY-Clip-Light-Aquarium/dp/B00LMH10HC

This will be the perfect match for low-light plants.

I personally have this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LIL7YPE

It worked very well for my 5g Fluval Chi with Java moss, dwarf hairgrass, micro swords, hornwort, and bladderwort.

I'm currently using it on a 20g long and the growth from my micro swords, anubias nana, Java moss, Java ferns, and wild bacopa is excellent. I keep it about 6" from the surface of the water. Some brown diatoms have formed directly below it on a piece of dead coral, but that's probably from a combination of recently cycling and a long photoperiod.


As long as you have a relatively short photoperiod or break up the photoperiod to "confuse" the algae, you should be fine. Flourish Excel definitely helps, as does hornwort if you don't mind it floating around.

One of our girls is going to be 2 years old in a few months, and even though she loves to cuddle with us, she still darts away and hides when she's on the floor. Even our most brazen of ratties will hide sometimes. It's just in their nature to be cautious, especially in wide open spaces.

You haven't had him all that long, and if he is willing to be pet and eat fron your hands then it sounds like you guys are doing great with him. It will take him some time to understand that he's safe roaming around, but even so I'm sure he will still hide sometimes.

As for keeping him out of places he shouldn't be, we bought this playpen and not only is it awesome for constructing a play area, but the panels are great for blocking off doorways or areas the rats don't need to get into.

Tank: I would suggest a 10G tank if you want tankmates other than ghost shrimps and snails. Petco $1 per Gallon sale is here until April 12. So a 10G would be $10. A 5G isn't part of the sale so the price of that is around $14. Cheaper to get a 10G!

Once of you an appropriate sized tank, some tetras would work or an ADF would work. What kind of tetras are you thinking of getting? Keep in mind that there are quite a few tetras that won't work with Bettas because they nip the long fins of the Betta.



Filter: I would suggest a sponge filter/air pump. That's what I use in my betta tank. It filters the water but don't create a current so the betta won't get pushed around and stressed.

What you'd need for a sponge filter:

• Sponge filter
  
  
• Air pump
  
  
• [Airline tubing] (http://www.amazon.com/Lees-Airline-Tubing-25-Foot-Standard/dp/B0002APXOQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1396795175&sr=8-2&keywords=airline+tubing)
  
  
  
  Heater: I haven't used enough heaters to really recommend a brand but adjustable ones would work the best and you can control the temperature better.
  
  I hope this helps!
  

Then it was likely just widely different water parameters. Anyways if you want to seed ammonia I recommend this 6$ thing off amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006MP4QG6/ . Yeah it's a smallish container compared to what you can buy in stores, but finding straight ammonia is pretty hard. (Alot of them have soap and crap in them). This stuff works pretty good for seeding it. Im currently cycling two 10g with it right now.

Also throwing fish in to seed ammonia is being impatient lol. You're risking fish for the benefit of not having to wait 3-6 weeks.

Get some 100W LED daylight bulbs.

And one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Deluxe-Aluminum-Reflector-Included/dp/B01E9IY6US/

And also one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Toplimit-Standard-Splitter-Heat-resistant-86V-240V/dp/B00T5JD2P2

That's if you want super ghetto and super cheap. And/or super easy to say "oh it is not for growing weed, mom and dad. It is for my photography studio. which is a much more expensive hobby than growing weed."

pet stores are actually known to NOT (or rarely) carry thermostats, which is one of the reasons why a lot of people don't know you need them.

you can buy them on amazon, pay for fast shipping (this one is widely used)

same for the gun, any cheap one is fine (i use this one)

if you can only get one, definitely get the thermostat as it's one of the most important things

so at petsmart just pick up hides and the aspen bedding. ideally both hides should be the same. get a hide that looks pretty small! you would be surprised at how small my hides are compared to how big my snake is. they can really squeeze in there and feel secure. if the hide is too big, it won't make them feel safe.

i would recommend joining this forum, there are a ton of people there who have been keeping snakes 10+ years who can better answer your questions.

Ok. I need this deshedding brush for my cat. it will make grooming her much easier as she has a thick double coat. This will make her more comfortable and It will also leave less hair to fall out on my furniture and carpets, so less cleaning for me and my friends with cat allergies might be more comfortable in my apartment.

If this is out of your price range, either of the phone cases would also be much appreciated. Because I drop my phone a lot and its only a matter of time before I break it.

I'm a big fan of these. They're super bright, and my needy plants in small tanks do well with em. Might be worth checking out, their whole Planted+ line is fantastic. :)

I like it. It's sturdy if you screw it together tight. The only thing I don't like is that it's not a real carpet material, but a fuzzy fabric. Gracie still loves it though. A lot of others on this thread have it and have said they made some modification and liked theirs too. Looks like the average lifespan is about 2 years, which is totally worth the price.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003WGGWQA/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1493292929&sr=8-4&keywords=cat+tree