Reddit mentions: The best power impact wrenches

Alright, no offense to the first commenter but we need to clearly define what we are talking about.
There isn't an "impact driver drill" I believe your talking about something like this that is a cordless electric 1/4" impact driver. It accepts 1/4" hex driver bits notice the special cut out at the base of the bit, that's what keeps it from falling out. It functions like a drill/driver until it encounters sufficient resistance then it impacts, giving increased torque(rotational force), it does not produce a hammering force(along the axis of the bit).

Now this is an impact wrench it too functions like a drill/driver until it meets resistance then it impacts adding rotational force but not hammer force. What are the differences between this and the driver we looked at earlier? First is obviously size, the wrench is bigger, and stronger, and heavier. But that's not what makes it a different tool, what makes it different is the tip, it's a square, like for putting sockets on, in this case 1/2" sockets but they make 3/8", 1/4", 3/4" and much larger!

So could you use the first tool in place of the much larger second tool? Yes! Use one of these adapters

Here's the problem tho, the first tool, the driver, makes at most 117 ft-lbs, and I believe that's stretching, the second tool, the wrench, makes 700 ft-lbs. To remove a rusty, crusty, stubborn lugnut you will need the bigger badder tool, sometimes it still won't be enough, and you'll need a breaker bar with a cheater pipe.

Now what the other commenter mentioned, the hammering force, that can be made with a few different tools. Let's start with the handheld impact driver yes it's confusing, two different tools, both called impact drivers, but this one we'll call the handheld, you hold it with one hand, and hammer it with a hammer. It has a cam mechanism that takes some of that axial force and imparts a slight (like 1/16 of a turn) rotation. It's good for stuck screws especially Phillips heads.

Another, more common tool is the hammer drill it is essentially a drill, it grips with three jaws onto the same bits as our first impact driver, or onto completely round bits, like your common drill bits but when you engage the hammer mechanism it will push its chuck forward and back rapidly, and the pressure you apply to the back of the drill hammers the bit into the material your drilling, useful for concrete/masonary work. But for real drilling power into concrete you want an SDS rotary hammer drill this bad boy only accepts SDS bits, provides it's own rotary and axial forces and will drill thru reinforced concrete like non reinforced butter.

Ok I think that about covers it, if anyone would like to add on I'd appreciate it. And remember:

Always use the right tool for the job, a hammer is the right tool for every job, and every tool can be used as a hammer!


Obviously that was sarcasm.

I've actually been in the market, too, since selling my old cordless one. I'll probably end up getting a pneumatic just because I have the giant compressor anyway, but this new 120v one is pretty intriguing. Early Amazon reviews are favorable (though some came from solicited reviews). For $70 it looks like a pretty good deal. Though Amazon also has the tried-and-true Kawasaki in a Warehouse deal right now. There are actually a lot of choices in the $70 range.

Yes, DeWalt and Milwaukee make nicer ones. But if infrequent use is already part of your equation, I would save your money.

These two wrenches are my favorite: 12/14mm and 17/19mm. Tons of power for breaking tough bolts. Beautiful to look at.



My semi-deep socket set and long handle/flex head ratchet handle a lot of work, too.



Honorable mention go to manual impact driver, extra long needle nose pliers - straight and curved, Magnetic pickup tool, and trusty 1/2" dr. impact wrench


And what job can you do without a screwdriver? Using 'em all the time, good grips are more than welcome. This is my favorite screwdriver.


OOOh and PRYBARS. The biggest one in this set gets used a lot.

Do not get the 1/2" Snap-On gun.

Get the IR 2135TiMax or 2135QTiMax.

Snap-On makes great tools, even their 3/8" Impact is phenomenal (albeit a measly $20 a week for the rest of your life type deal), but bang for your buck, IR is the way to go. I've seen guys with the 231c and it's a great gun that runs forever, but why not spend a few more bucks and get an even better/stronger/more comfortable gun that runs as long as that, if not longer?

As for the 1/2" Snap-On..I've seen more of those break at the ~1 year mark, leaving the guys who bought it completely boned out of their warranty. As they're still paying for it. Sad stuff man..

Personally, I own the 2135QTiMax, and I love it. Oil it once a week (twice if the oil change/tire rotates are as frequent as a pimp asking for his money) and it's stayed quiet and more powerful than the Snap-On guns that claim to have more power. I've had to leave my bay with this gun to help people out who've "forgotten to oil" their Snap-On guns, and showed them which Impact brand really reigns supreme.

I'm only going by the price that they're asking $99 (and surely they don't ever ask $250 for a store brand impact), but I would spend my money on that before I bought any HF impact. I've had good luck with NAPA tools. As a professional mechanic, though, I would advise you to consider this. I use one of these at work and they are held in high regard, at least as a "value buy" compared to Mac and Snap-On. I absolutely love mine.

uhh, circuit breakers don't trip as soon as they go over 15A though.

this is why you can start electric motors (a 10-15 HP can pull 150-200A+ inrush on a ~60-70A breaker) and not trip.

"By use of magnetic shunt plates within the magnetic circuit, it is possible to divert the magnetic flux, thereby resulting in a higher inrush withstanding capability. These High Inrush trip time delays disregard short duration, high pulse surges (typically 8 ms or less and up to 25x rated current) characteristic of transformers, switching power supplies and capacitive loads."

http://www.carlingtech.com/trip-time-delay

ex2:

We have a 110v hydraulic rebar cutter that functions similarly to what you're describing with cordless impacts. It's rated for ~1700w, but it'll push enough amps (well above 15) while very rarely tripping the breaker. And we take this thing from jobsite to jobsite, so we're on 15A breakers and GFCI outlets all the time.

I imagine a Hammerdrill or a Miter saw would be different here because you typically use these tools in ways where they're under load for a longer period of time which can make the breaker trip more consistently.



I've also played around with a Fluke 375 and measured DC amps on various power tools. (Makita stuff mainly)

High drain tools won't peak anywhere above 60A,. And I'm pretty freaking sure you would never pulse anything like near 250A on a double layer of Samsung 25Rs. (5.0 Ah batteries because that's basically the standard nowadays and the 25R being the best cell in this category)

Either way, that is absolutely ridiculous and way out of spec. These batteries can handle short bursts of ~60A and a continuous discharge of 40-45A. If you put 250A through them then it's probably for some insanely microscopic amount of time, to the point that it may as well be discarded as irrelevant to the tool's average performance.

It probably has more to do with the lack of innovation in the corded market. There's no brushless 110v impact wrenches. And the mechanical engineering behind impacts like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW292-7-5-Amp-2-Inch-Impact/dp/B0009HM5OI/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1522218602&sr=8-13&keywords=dewalt+impact+wrench

dates back to 2005. And I imagine the version before this one wasn't much worse either.

There's just no money in tools like these. So they don't put any further R&D into them.

There's also no battery packs. And 110v is essentially a universal platform that everyone has access to almost everywhere.

And it's not like Dewalt, Makita, Milwaukee etc can carve out truly dedicated markets by pushing 110v tools.

But if they get you on their battery platform? You're more likely to come back to them.

So then you eventually buy something else in their constantly expanding platform. Which makes you even less likely to switch to a competitor. And by the time you've built up a nice stock of their tools? You probably need to buy some more batteries from them.

Batteries don't last forever. And disposability = more $$$$.

110v tools don't really offer a parallel to that. You can't produce highly disposable corded tools because, again, 110v is a universal platform.

DEWALT DCF899P1 20V MAX XR Brushless High Torque 1/2" Impact Wrench Kit with Detent Anvil https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X52TWA4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_z61ITYorXVsE3

I've been using this one at the shop for quick jobs since May. Good price and it's help up well. Definitely go cordless. AVE on YouTube did a good tear down of the harbor freight earthquake cordless impact. I believe it was made by the same people that made the dewalt. Might be able to save a few more dollars that way.

A 1/2" impact worth considering is the Metabo LTX 400. Its rated for 420 ft/lbs breakaway torque, but its underrated, if you read the reviews of it, it competes with 500 ft/lb guns easily. Its small and lightweight for how much power it has, very comfortable to use.

It has 10 torque settings and has a unique brushless motor control system, it is extremely controllable and really helps with not stripping fasteners and nuts. Has hog ring also. Metabo is a common brand in Germany, but a little obscure in the states. They're very well made tools, and most are available on Amazon Prime.

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The kit is $315 on amazon right now

My breaker bar has saved me so much trouble on tough to knock loose bolts. I recall a few months ago I was trying to remove the bolts on a brake caliper with a regular 12" ratchet. I managed to get the bolts off the driver's side caliper bracket off, but it literally took all my strength (and I had bruises on my biceps from doing it.) I wrestled with the passenger side for a good hour before I drove to a shop and bought a 1/2" attachment so I could use my 2 ft breaker bar. The bolt literally just fell off with barely any pressure.

I also have the regular automotive tools needed to work on my car (jack, stands, ramp, socket set, hex set, allen set, wrench set, etc.) I just ordered an cordless electric impact wrench today since using my breaker bar to remove lug nuts was exhausting.

I ordered this: http://www.amazon.com/DeWALT-DW059K-2-18-Volt-Ni-Cad-Cordless/dp/B0001LQLE2/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1324404837&sr=1-2

It ended up costing me $226 and change after $25 dewalt promo discount and $20 promo I had from pre-ordering some games on amazon. From the reviews I've read, it should be good enough to handle the majority of the maintenance work I do on my car and my hope is that it saves me a significant amount of time and effort when I work on my car.

I'm planning on replacing my CV joint axles in the next two months, so I'm hoping the impact wrench will come in handy.

If you already have invested in a brand of cordless tools looks for whatever your brand offers, most higher-end brands usually are pretty comparable these days.

I've used the milwaukee m18 impact for a while and I've had much better luck with it than I've had with air tools on a too small compressor. A quick search shows Dewalt and Makita both have equivalents that are probably quite good as well.

Wind load chart (use 20 lbf/ft^2 @ 88 mph)

Basic geometry.

Wind load = 2000 lb

Moment (torque) = 20,000 lb-ft

You have two basic options:

Option 1: Handle the 20,000 lb-ft moment using mongo AEA PE-46 penetrators or DPW helix plate anchors within the base. DPW anchors are free if you request them through Art Support Services in advance. You have to pre-survey them and tie down to them. The Penetrators look like giant wood screws but driving them is a bitch and you have to do that yourself.

Option 1 is a bit dicey due to the relatively tall skinny nature of your project, but it can work with some decent engineering.

Option 2: Use guy lines. DPW anchors are probably your best bet if you're an official project. If you want to anchor yourself, a Makita TW-1000 can probably drive a PE-36 and a very heavy duty cordless impact can drive a PE-26.

Make sure to drive the PE-26 directly in-line with the guy-line and not side-load it, or it will snap.

I'm too groggy for the trig right now, have fun!

Well bare tool DeWalt is $204 on amazon. That's $199 with coupon. Sure it comes with a battery, but I got plenty of DeWalt batteries.

The DeWalt one also seems like it will have a long production run and is super popular, so I'll be able to buy parts, and broken ones to use for parts for years to come.

There are 2 other main styles of impact.


The butterfly
https://www.amazon.com/Husky-Butterfly-Impact-Wrench/dp/B01M6UKE43


1 inch usually used for truck wheels.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E25LTY/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_MYcCDbE64MR9V


Take look at this again it is a standard air hose balancer with an adapter to hook to the top of the tool.
http://www.sphosereel.com/pistol-type-air-tool-balancer-3875138.html


If you insist on having the air line come out the top im sure ingersoll rand would love to make a custom tool line just for your factory, for the right price.

Instead of getting a big, loud, expensive air compressor that you have to start up and wait for pressure to build, and have to drag it/its hoses around your garage, just get a cordless electric impact wrench. In fact pretty much all air tools have better electric versions now. I have one of these and I have used it for giant suspension and brake caliper bolts and spun them all off instantly: https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF899B-Brushless-Torque-Impact/dp/B00WJA1J68

I hear the Milwaukee 1/2" one is great and everybody recommends it for a little more money.

Hey man sorry for the late reply. I use These. They are awesome. With the big battery the impact lasts forever. I've only charged it about 5-7 times in he last year. The 3/8 one can pull off a lug nut tightened to 80 ft/lbs.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WTQW7JA/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1486534851&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dewalt+20v+impact&dpPl=1&dpID=51H9HKF-8WL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007NVSQEQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1486534851&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dewalt+20v+impact&dpPl=1&dpID=416tDAhussL&ref=plSrch


Hope that helps.

So I replaced one of my knuckles years ago and I suspected something wasn't quite perfect. I usually replace pads or rotors separately as they wear out so the issue showing itself in the form of uneven thickness wearing of the rotors (commonly mislabeled as "warping"), took a long time to appear if at all. But this summer I went on a road trip and put brand new rotors and pads on at the same time, stretching the calipers/slides to their max. By the end of the trip, the front right had noticeable dust buildup and there was steering shake under braking.

I've been accumulating tools for a while so it was time to tackle this without replacing the hub.

Tools I used:

• Dewalt DCF890B Impact plus rare 21mm deep 3/8 socket made removing and installing the lugs over and over easy. A bit of lube on the threads helped too. I opted for the slightly larger 21mm socket over the 13/16" because it fits the lugs on the Miata better.
  
  
• Fowler 72-520-757 Rotor and Ball Joint Gauge Set
  
  
• Ampro T29771 1/2 ratchet my go to breaker bar, which I can fairly accurately torque things to ~90lbs by feel.
  
  
• NAPA 3 thousands shim or NAPA 6 thousands shim you can get these several places but I wanted to be able to easily return them if needed. I used the 6.
  
  
• Gorilla 70027B (12mm x 1.25 thread)(21mm or 13/16" external) open ended lugs
  
  Most of my purchases were through Amazon Warehouse Deals and I paid 50% - 70% list price, some times with the help of camelcamelcamel.com

Agreed. I have used air tools in my job for decades, and the 2135 is by far the best gun I have ever owned. What i particularly like is the fact that the trigger is variable; you can control the speed and torque very precisely. there is more than brute power to consider when choosing a gun; you can even put on plastic wheel nut caps with this gun if you are careful. Also, it is a composite body which makes it much lighter than a full metal one. That does not sound important, but if you are using it all day it really saves on arm fatigue. Try one of these; you will love it.

https://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-Rand-2135TiMAX-2-Inch-Impact-Wrench/dp/B000WMN2GU

https://www.tooltopia.com/cart.aspx

That impact driver looks awesome, and in your case it will probably work well as a screwdriver/ occasional impact. But if you wanted to step it up to an actual mobile impact and not worry about air or batteries, you could look into one of these 12v impacts - though it is much larger than a screwdriver sized tool.

> I mean, it might hammer them off if you're sure they were torqued on correctly before and changed relatively recently. I wouldn't count on it to get you through any and all situations.

This is the best advice. I had a wheel lock stuck on my car and was unable to remove it with my DeWalt DCF886 at maximum output (~125 ft-lbs of torque). It came off like it was nothing with a corded electric impact (rated at ~260 ft-lbs).

I never ran into any situation my impact couldn't handle when I worked in construction, but I think that is because that is the purpose it was designed for. Buy an impact designed for removing lugs if you want an impact to remove lugs.

This is the corded impact I used, and it works very well for a $70 tool.

https://www.amazon.com/Williams-50673-8-Inch-Socket-15-Piece/dp/B005VMVEV6/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=jh+Williams+set&qid=1565396842&s=gateway&sr=8-7

https://www.amazon.com/Williams-100P-8MD-8-Piece-Premium-Screwdriver/dp/B002NH5F30/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=jh+Williams+set&qid=1565396884&s=gateway&sr=8-2

https://www.amazon.com/Williams-50661-4-Inch-Socket-27-Piece/dp/B002O18PLO/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=jh%2BWilliams%2Bset&qid=1565396884&s=gateway&sr=8-5&th=1&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/KNIPEX-Tools-9K-00-Combination/dp/B00KBCM456/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=knipex+pliers+set&qid=1565396944&s=gateway&sprefix=knipex+plier&sr=8-6

https://www.amazon.com/Sunex-2569-Master-Impact-43Piece/dp/B00MPQ88RY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=sunex+1%2F2+impact+socket+set&qid=1565396983&s=gateway&sprefix=sunex+&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-231C-Super-Duty-Impact-Wrench/dp/B0002SRM3I/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=ingersoll+rand+1%2F2+impact&qid=1565397014&s=gateway&sprefix=inger&sr=8-6

https://www.strictlytoolboxes.com/tool-vault-56-11-drawer-tool-cabinet.html

https://www.amazon.com/Streamlight-Stinger-Flashlight-Steady-Charger/dp/B0015ZO8VG/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?keywords=streamlight+flashlight&qid=1565397140&s=gateway&sprefix=streamli&sr=8-9

https://www.amazon.com/Sunluway-Filter-Socket-Adjustable-Removal/dp/B07MGR24BP/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?keywords=oil+filter+socket+set&qid=1565397258&s=gateway&sprefix=oil+filter&sr=8-17


https://www.amazon.com/Industrial-CDI-2503MFRPH-Adjustable-Micrometer/dp/B000KL4H80/ref=sxin_3_sxwds-bovbs?keywords=cdi+torque+wrench&pd_rd_i=B000KL4H80&pd_rd_r=cb4b628e-131d-4fcc-b250-1d9ff8c30f7a&pd_rd_w=dmdpJ&pd_rd_wg=pkYb4&pf_rd_p=eba0c0ae-19a3-4eb8-a600-1bc2a745bcd0&pf_rd_r=DDV7A2667PM9STRGS9T6&qid=1565397296&s=gateway&sprefix=cdi



Buy this list and stay away from tool trucks. Good luck

450ft/lb might be plenty for your needs. I'm a fairly serious home gamer and have an older kobalt thats rated at 300ft/lbs and havent really needed to go larger for anything. Most stuff on cars is torqued well below 200ft/lbs. I suppose it all depends on what you need to do with it. You can run more extensions and wobble joints with a higher rating though.

I do have a regular old air impact and one of these little guys for getting more power into tighter spots though. Electric still isnt as compact as air nor as cheap.

anyways something to think about as you try to make your mind up. A top of the line electric impact and battery is pretty pricey.

Ingersoll Rand makes pretty decent 1/2" impacts in the $200 range. An 8-15 Gallon Air Compressor is going to run you $250-400

If you don't want air you can get something like this

Oh. It's the Astro Pneumatics Low Profile Nano Impact Sockets.
They fit great with a Stubby impact for getting behind hubs & rotors when doing brakes.

This is the XWT08Z LXT 1/2" impact wrench. I ordered the first time from a third-party seller on Amazon (David's Tools) to avoid sales tax. When it arrived with this loose battery holder, I chalked it up to insufficient packing, as it was shipped in just the retail box with no packing inside or around it.

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The second time, I accidently ordered from the same third-party vendor, and it came with the same horrid packing and the same defect. The third time, I ordered from Amazon proper, and the packaging was only slightly better--retail box loose inside a slightly bigger box. Same loose battery holder.

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What do you guys think? It can't actually be meant to be this way, can it? Think they have a manufacturing problem? A counterfeiting problem? I guess my next step after returning all these (or maybe before) is to call Makita? Anyone ever try that?

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I've been putting off this purchase for a while and I was super stoked to finally pull the trigger. Now I'm pretty bummed.

E: apparently I’m a dummy but hopefully this post will help future dummies.

Interesting to see exactly why you wouldn't use one of these as your every day go to rattle gun.

The slightly bigger "stubby" models are surprisingly powerful. I've used one of these and for a hobbyist who isn't using their impact wrench 8 hours a day, tossing it on the shop floor, I think it could completely replace a full size.

These are awesome

https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-Tool-78314-Profile/dp/B01JBK1FHG

The stubby is rated for 250 ft lbs of torque. The mid torque is 600 and the high torque is 1400.

If you're looking for a stubby impact and you already own a compressor I would recommend getting something like a Astro 1822

IR 2135QTiMax

Best bang for your buck in my opinion. This is the quiet version. The regular one is a few bucks less, but my ears are worth it.

For real, I've got a tractor which I have a 3 foot ratchet 1"drive for my brush mower. This Milwaukee impact does more than it.. Long life battery, handy for changing tires too. Beats my air impact without trying, has weak and strong settings. 700lbs on, 1100 off.

Well, I do at work all the time. Yes it will do what the description says.

1475 ft lbs.

I own one and I love it. But I have never tried to take lug nuts off with it.

I have a rattle gun for that. You will need some of these

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B010GJF8N8?psc=1

I went with the 18v because I had several other 18v tools. If you aren't invested in 18's I would suggest a 20. Has better battery and a bit more oomph.

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF883B-20-Volt-Lithium-8-Inch/dp/B007NVSQEQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1456971607&sr=8-3&keywords=20v+dewalt+impact

I use this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WTQW7JA

I've never had a nut that it couldn't take off. I've used it in everything from taking off lawn mower blades to nuts on my tractor and implements.

Some of the bolts on the implements you could barely tell there is thread with how rusted they are. Good luck on the future.

There is only one cordless grinder on the market that is worth owning. I'm not just being dramatic. To be useful, a grinder needs to pull a lot of power and one tool puts the rest to shame, that tool is the DeWalt 60 volt grinder. DeWalt also has a 1/2" brushless impact wrench which accepts the FlexVolt battery from the grinder. (Note that the grinder requires the 60v battery, which switches to 20v when used in a 20v tool).

I am trying to remove an Axel nut and have broken 2 breaker bars already. Borrowed a friends impact and it did nothing.

I found a person with a similar problem on reddit and this is the tool they ended up using. It costs about $60 so not super expensive, just not a tool I see myself using that much.

I have also heard this Dewalt model will most likely get the job done. So if anyone has one of those that would be helpful too. Thanks!

That's an impact driver, not an impact wrench. I don't know that model but they generally put out about 100 ft lbs. You need something like this.

The pneumatic IR Titanium TIMAX series are fantastic. Nearly everyone in my shop has one now, both 1/2 and 3/4 drive. Powerful and reliable. We've yet to have one fail, and they've been kicking around for a few years now.

example: https://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-Rand-2235TIMAX-Impact-Wrench/dp/B00LV9Y1FE/ref=pd_lpo_469_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3WFRCYBYTNDS8907JN0X

Is this the one you would recommend? :
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF899B-Brushless-Torque-Impact/dp/B00WJA1J68/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479230961&sr=8-1&keywords=dewalt+torque+driver

Not worth the money. Just get a impact wrench and a regular torque wrench to correctly tighten the lugs.

This is the most powerful impact wrench Dewalt makes. DCF899

I had a cheap Campbell Hausfeld and a pancake. Totally worthless. It had good power for like 3 seconds as others say.

I had the enjoyment of removing a pitman arm off of my '74 Corvette earlier this year. I invested in a DEWALT DCF899HB 20V MAX XR Brushless High Torque 1/2" Impact Wrench with Hog Ring Anvil https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WTQW7JA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LoiRzbYFQV4AR

Oh man is this impact is dangerous. If a nut wont give, it'll snap the stud instead. Ask me how I now. Plenty enough power for me.

I doubt a person would be able to hold it still while it's being tightened.

I use to use a [12volt Impact Wrench] (https://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-841337-2-Inch-Impact-12-Volt/dp/B00544EZQ2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473463637&sr=8-1&keywords=12volt+impact+wrench) and although it appears quite weak while using it, it actually tightens and loosens the CVT and Clutch nut quite well.

I eventually upgraded my 12volt Impact Wrench with an [A/C Impact Wrench] (http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-heavy-duty-electric-impact-wrench-68099.html) from Harbor Freight and this bad boy is pretty powerful and it's also convenient since I could just plug it into the wall.

There is at least this impact wrench that can run off 12V.

Tire ramps or wheel chocks are also handy (arguably essential) to ensure the car won't roll over you.

Mine come off easily with an impact wrench. Here is mine, which gets a lot of use...

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https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF899B-Brushless-Torque-Impact/dp/B00WJA1J68

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And if you remove the fans and radiator there is plenty of room to work. One pull of the trigger and that bolt is spinning.

Yep. They also have a 3/8 driver that I plan to pick up to replace my Makita impact

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF890B-Compact-Impact-Wrench/dp/B01N3JN60H/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521753752&sr=8-1&keywords=DEWALT+DCF890B+20V+Max+XR+3%2F8%22+Compact+Impact+Wrench&dpID=51t1jgB1OJL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WJA1J68/ref=psdcmw_552820_t1_B00WTQW7JA

Yeah you're right it's 700 ft/lbs

A lot of God options from astro pneumatic. Check this one out:
https://www.amazon.com/Astro-1822-Nano-Impact-Wrench/dp/B00VTQIURE

Agree that photos would help. I'll try to link in this.

2 Issues

Fender flares.

The bolts that go from inside the tub to the plastic nuts in the flare are very corroded. Additionally, the tub seems to be a little bent, so that the bolt heads have almost no clearance. Little easier to see here.

I was thinking about sawzalling the fender flares (long way around), so that I can get a good grip on the plastic nuts, and unscrew them from the bolt, rather than attempting to unscrew the bolt from the nut.

Side steps (or rocker guards, I guess)

These are the ones I am thinking about using a torque wrench on. The 4 bolts in the middle go through the tub, with the bolt head on top (like the seat bolts). I'm soaking them in PB Blaster, but have only managed to get them halfway out. Was thinking of using one of these.

I hope that helps explain. I am sure I using some wrong words. I have no problem buying the correct tools, just not sure what they are.

DEWALT 20V MAX XR Impact Wrench... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WTQW7JA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Was originally 249.99 but it went down to 205. Not a crazy deal but made me finally pull the trigger.

I'm no longer a technician, but I like cordless tools, but pneumatic is second to none when you need the torque.

I used a Milwaukee 1/4 cordless ratchet and a Makita 3/8 cordless impact driver.

I used an Astro Nano 3/8 impact wrench. That little thing was badass. 450 lb-ft torque out of a tiny little gun. I used it for lugnuts everyday. Here is an amazon link. For anything that was too tough for the Nano, I'd break out my ancient Ingersol Rand 1/2. That was made before I was born. I forget where I got it from. I think i picked it up at a yard sale. It was seized when I bought it, but I got it working and it never let me down.

I doubt 190 ft pounds of torque will take out 10 year old suspension bolts. Your better of spending the extra 100 in the DeWalt

Plus buy spending a few more bucks on an accessory

>Eligible Qualifying Purchase for DEWALT's Power Tool Accessory Promotion. When you purchase this DEWALT power tool, you can receive an extra 20% off select DEWALT power tool accessories when both products are shipped and sold by Amazon.com. Discount applied at checkout. Learn more

That saves you 30 bucks

Cordless impacts FTW. I only have the Craftsman C3 20v and it's still pretty great. Takes a second or two on stupid-tight lugs (for example, whoever put the lugs on my buddys RAV4 should get a talking to - no way you'd ever get those fuckers off on the side of the road) and the wheel-hub nut on my wife's Odyssey, but it works. I've decided the money I'd spend on a bigger compressor is going to go to a small quiet one and the beefy DeWalt. If 700 ft/lb can't do it, I've got no business screwing with it... ;)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00544EZQ2/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1450107221&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX118_SY170_QL70&keywords=electric+impact+wrench&dpPl=1&dpID=419JC-zyB2L&ref=plSrch

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008PN5JAU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1450107221&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=electric+impact+wrench&dpPl=1&dpID=41xuv6aa73L&ref=plSrch

Noticed this on amazon today...thoughts?

DEWALT DCF899P1 20V MAX XR Brushless High Torque 1/2" Impact Wrench Kit with Detent Anvil https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X52TWA4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IlwSAbY01DBWH

8.5 amp 1/2" electric impact wrench: $71

You asked, I deliver

Use this when I was at the dealer. Since I eventually got another, I keep one at home and the other at work.

Milwaukee 2763-20 M18 Fuel 1/2-Inch High Torque Impact Wrench with Friction Ring (Bare Tool) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GFUA6O4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yVnQCb4CYM2M8

I bought a set of those Astro nano sockets when I bought my stubby. Because why not right?

This one: https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-2763-20-2-Inch-Torque-Friction/dp/B00GFUA6O4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505359223&sr=8-1&keywords=18v+milwaukee+impact+drive+1%2F2%22

This one is advertised as making 700ftlbs.

Cordless impact wrench like: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00X52TWA4/ref=psdcmw_552820_t1_B00WJA1J68

Not required but a great "nice to have". No need to fight bolts that are on too hard as it has ridiculous breakaway torque. Makes many jobs just far easier, as long as you can get to the bolt you can remove it easily.

I’m not sure the reason why 1/4 is the standard for impact drivers but they do make adapters for 3/8 and 1/2” sockets.

MILWAUKEE ELEC TOOL 48-32-5033 3 Piece 1/4" He x Adapter Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FUQPJAK/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_XN-NBb5WXYM5Q

Impacts also come in 1/2” drives for bigger applications

Milwaukee 2763-20 M18 Fuel 1/2-Inch High Torque Impact Wrench with Friction Ring (Ba... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GFUA6O4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_XP-NBbVEE22A4

I would say the bigger the more dangerous. Most often the threads will not break and you'll be left with a bolt/nut digging into whatever it is that you're anchoring. I have two DeWalt impact drivers: both cordless 20volt, one with approximately 160 Nm and a 1/4" chuck, the other is a 1/2" drive high torque driver with a maximum output of approximately 950 Nm. I've snapped grade 8 half inch lag bolts with the big one.

All in all I would suggest for standard use a 1/4 inch chuck, not drive, light duty impact wrench. Anything you feel might not be tight enough go ahead and use a socket and ratchet wrench to confirm and you should be all good.

DEWALT DCF887B 20V MAX XR Li-Ion Brushless 0.25" 3-Speed Impact Driver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0183RLW8A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PleoybVS9H9CS

Source: I work in heavy construction

For anyone curious, this is the "big brother" - DEWALT DCF899HB 20V MAX XR Brushless High Torque 1/2" Impact Wrench with Hog Ring Anvil https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WTQW7JA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ioeoybRH1MZTV

I use this

No need for a compressor and o lines to fuck with or oiling. It's great and hasn't let me down yet. In fact it outperforms my craftsman pneumatic impact

No. You want a Dewalt (or milwaukee if you're into that sort of thing).

Electric is the key word here. You have cordless "screw" gun as some people call it. I'm talking about an electric impact wrench: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019WZKUW6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Welcome to EVERY FUCKING JEEP FROM 1990-2008 (at least.) These aren't overtorqued, because two came off.

You're using the wrong tool. Breaker bar? Never going to fucking work. Oh, you have a 1/2" gun that does 250ft/lbs? That's still not big enough. You need this fucker.

Oh, and five studs, five lugs, and a new wheel. Because the only way you're getting those fuckers off is by torquing till shit straight up shatters.

>The tires were put on by the mechanic so probably pneumatic tightened but I didn't think that would prevent me from loosening them manually.

huehuehue

try a breaker bar. i got tired of straining my back on tight as fuck bolts and nuts so I got this

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF899HB-Brushless-Torque-Impact/dp/B00WTQW7JA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1464089495&sr=8-3&keywords=dewalt+impact+wrench