(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best powersports electrical products

The yeti is nice, i have never used one. Some say it is overpriced, but you have to admit that it is a nice simple all in one thing - battery, usb,300 watt pure sine wave inverter, and can charge from 120 vac,12vdc,or solar.

It is what it is, 33Ah battery so if that is not enough then what? If you are going to charge from 12 (like your car) you will need hours and hours. Now if you are willing to put an isolator on you van/car? you could charge faster than a cigarette lighter socket but then you are adding complexity for just using occasionally. So if you can live with the capacity then it's a neat package.

The prices for the big yeti are over $1.4K ? I think that is 100Ah of battery. I think that would get you through a weekend with enough spare energy as to not have to ration. idk And this would just be charged at home or if you find 120vac while you are away.

I will think it over more as it is late for me. But what I have done before is to use a battery box and a separate inverter. The box and battery(battery is bad now) I owned from the trolling motor set up for my canoe. It is not a clean set up but can be used in pieces as you like. So if you have separate pieces and your battery runs low you just hook up the inverter to the van, and don't run out of fun times.

here are some amazon links - non referrals so take a look and seeif you get what I mean.

https://www.amazon.com/MinnKota-Trolling-Motor-Power-Center/dp/B001PTHKMG Nice thing here is it will hold any battery up to group 24 or 27

https://www.amazon.com/VMAXMB127-Battery-Replacement-Caddy-Golf/dp/B00BDV7OO0 I just picked a 100Ah battery at random

https://www.amazon.com/Wagan-EL2601-Elite-400W-Inverter/dp/B007Y4BL1C

https://www.amazon.com/VMAXTANKS-Maintainer-Automobile-Batteries-maintain/dp/B00IZV91Q0/ref=pd_sim_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00IZV91Q0&pd_rd_r=2VBEJM4WJG5N3CAX8905&pd_rd_w=uLdL1&pd_rd_wg=0Vigf&psc=1&refRID=2VBEJM4WJG5N3CAX8905 Any GOOD battery charger will do.

So like $500, but you now own a nice box, battery, charger, and inverter. So play with the idea and see if it would fit your style. Just an option.

Here is what some guy did with $1000 and you could scale this to your needs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=offgcMwuTGw

Sorry for the mess of a post.

Good luck and have fun. Be sure to let the sub know what you come up with.

Do not buy an SM harness... That is exactly what someone who owns an SM would say (although I own one too).. but, I have both an E and an SM and have done plenty of swapping of parts between the two, i can assure you there are far more differences than you realize and you will not be happy when you are trying to mate up everything You simply just need to add a new extra, more simple harness for street legal applications. Lots of places sell these, but if you are convinced on doing your own I will write something up below.

As I mentioned above.. the SM harness will have neutral light wiring, clutch wiring, kickstand wiring, fan wiring, entire cluster wiring, a different run/stop switch wiring and so on... The harness is ~$250 new.. used will be ~$70 and up before shipping. And, unless you want to buy all the oem bar/lever switches, instrument cluster, and so on you will be cutting all the factory connectors off anyway and buying new ones. So really, you just spent $100 bucks on wires, and now you have a harness tied into your frame with any number of wires that are not used but are still wrapped in with those that are needed. Need I even mention, that there is the level of effort in removing your existing harness to put the new one in. If you haven't done it before, then I reserve the "i told you so" card for when you start thinking you should have just ran new wires. Why rip out all the current working wiring on your bike just to run lights and a horn? You really just need to take your time and snake some new wiring through on top of the existing ones.

What you will need:
A spool set of multi colored stranded wire for $30 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N51OO7Q/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_ZOwHxbBZEX0R4
black electrical tape
wire loom if you want it.. lots of black tape will work
If you want to get fancy and connect things up nicely, get a handful of universal auto connectors, nice and pricey ones are "deutsch" connectors but spade connectors will work just fine. all the turn signals are 2 pin. the taillight is 3, headlight is 2 pins per light.. (high and low) depending on which you get. Brake light switches are 2 pins each (front and rear). All the relays are typically spade connectors, and there will probably be 6 of these. You will also need 2 for the horn.

Tap into power anywhere after the ignition switch.. so that your lights only come on when you have key-turned.. there is a number of places to do this then run power to your control on the handlebar.Ground will be from all over, best place is the battery though.

Taillight might as well be powered directly from the ignition.. it comes on all the time when the key is turned. Same with headlight, but you will need to switch that between high and low. this takes care of your rear running light.

Typical handlebar control you should get.. i didnt look long and this one may be a bit pricey, but it has all the switching you need. https://www.amazon.com/Technologies-12-0055-Off-Road-Multi-Function-Handlebar/dp/B000IOO4KK/ref=pd_sim_263_33?ie=UTF8&dpID=414eakRFE3L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=0XT37ZA8388WFWNJSQQK

You can use 2 relays for the whole setup.

For the headlight.. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/CTI0/84601/N0381.oap?ck=Search_N0381_-1_4631&pt=N0381&ppt=C0335#compatibilityTab_ will work fine. the switch i made above goes before the relay and has two wires coming out of it(one high, one low).. and one common going in.. Connect a +vdc going into the common.. the other two outs will be going to relay.. one for high beams on 87, the other for lows/running + on 86. ground goes on 85. Headlights done.

Flasher relay for your blinkers.. .. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/NOV0/EP34/01546.oap?year=2001&make=Suzuki&model=Swift&vi=1375130&ck=Search_relay_01546_1375130_4631&keyword=relay&pt=01546&ppt=C0117
This also goes before your turn signal switch.. the relay has a power in.. B, and then a ground.. E, then a flashing VDC out, L. L goes to the handlebar common input and the controls have 2 going out.. one goes to Front & rear Left.. the other Front and Rear Rigtht. each turn signal has a ground as a second wire. here is a simple picture.. http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk204/freddyflatfoot/Signal0_zpsd66b34a5.jpg.. for the relay i linked, the B is X in the pic.. L is L and the E is for ground or P in the picture. turn signals should work now.

The annoying part of all this will be the brake switches... E model frames do not have the welded bolt holes for the S/SM switches for the rear. Also your front brake levers do not have bolt holes for switches. Yet again, another failure point if you go with an SM harness. To get these working, I would go with banjo bolt pressure switches for both front and rear.. just need to make sure that you get the right size to replace the oem banjo bolts. Here is an example.. (may not be the right size)..https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GTV0RC/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687542&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0039ZTQEO&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=G97BJBWZ2KJBAABS9H7T If you dont go with banjo bolts, you need to rig something up for spring activated switches on the factory E levers, which dont have any mounting points, unlike the SM models. Once you do this, you will run two grounds to the brake light. +vdc will go directly to the light, the two grounds will go to the light via the two switches. When either one of the brake switches is hit.. it completes a path to ground and the light will come on. Brakes are only annoying because of the need to refill your brakes. (good opportunity for steel braid lines! if you wanted them anyway).

The horn works just like the brake.. power to the horn, ground through the momentary switch built into the controls.

Put a fuse or (multiple if you prefer) inline for the wiring you just.. somewhere between the ignition and the components.

Your last bit you need to figure out is a speedometer, and you could get an S/SM cluster to make it easy.. except on money.. but a Trail Tech Endurance is much cheaper ($89.99 new) than a used factory instrument panel and comes with the wheel sensor you need. If you get the striker or vapor you can get a sweet looking indicator panel to go over it that will give you turn signal indicators, and so on (extra wiring needed though). Trail Techs are accurate once wheel speed is set correctly and they are really.. really easy to install. So much that KTM/Berg/Husky uses the same reed switches mechanism for speedo function. If you do this, remove the old speedo cable, plug the hole in the stock wheel sensor up with a rubber plug or epoxy(if you never will use it again) and then leave the sensor there as a spacer for your wheel. I think some sites sell a spacer to eliminate it.. I cannot remember.

Thats it.. You would have horn, signals, headlights, taillights/ brake lights, speedo and you didnt mess with your factory wiring one bit, which means the only thing that will possibly NOT work when you are done is your lights or horn.

I could try to draw up a crude wiring schematic if you really need, or I can answer questions as you do it if you feel it is something you want to try. Either way, I have faith most people can figure this out with some guidance from the forums, youtube, and google.

I agree it's possible but even so the auction house would have maybe noticed it was a bit odd at least. Who knows maybe they just let them put it up without really handling the frame themselves. This video shows a lot of the internals and I really hope that battery isn't a baby lead acid hopefully (I'm sure it's not lol) that's just a case or it's a LiFePO4 pack at least or anything better. Is that person at 17 seconds holding a soldering iron? Good thing it's off for the camera haha but it could be a screw driver or something. There would be a bit more heft too that frame than normal. That's all I was thinking that the thick frame and a bit more weight might be odd so that's why I made the comment the auction house would have noticed. I have had two forgotten 4S LiPos hold their charge for 3 years pretty well so I'm sure that's not a big issue but like ya said they did run out halfway. I think you would have put it together better and I have a few ideas myself after seeing some of the internals in the video.

Hi!

I know it sounds like I'm being a jerk, and I'm not trying to be, but I would suggest buying a paper copy of the manual. I know it's probably ~$20, but it's so much easier having the paper copy right next to you instead of getting your laptop all greasy. And, you can write notes in it. I would think your bike is popular enough that most shops would have one in stock.

I had a starter problem with an '83 Shadow similar to yours. I let it go, thinking the bike was just hard to start because it was getting cooler, but after it failed on me it involved rebuilding the starter. The brushes were worn to dust. There is a starter rebuild kit (O-rings, brushes and the like) that I found for cheap (http://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-1991-2003-21163-1141-21163-1249-31200-MJ0-016/dp/B004UAL8SY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1347546601&sr=8-1&keywords=cb750+starter+rebuild+kit). It wasn't hard to do at all, but the hardest part for me was removing the starter which involved removing an exhaust pipe and a coolant line, and still not having much clearance. Yours might be easier, but again. Manual.

Checking the cable would be the easy thing to do first. Do you know where the starter is? It looks like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1995-Honda-Nighthawk-CB-750-Starter-/261096667016?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cca92f788&vxp=mtr

If you can easily access it, just check to see if the nut that holds that cable on is loose. I highly suggest disconnecting the battery though before sticking a metal wrench in there, though. Just in case.

Long story short, I suggest rebuilding the starter (either you, or your friend) if the cable isn't loose, or you'll have to hope that it doesn't fail on you without somewhere to bump start it.

Also, changing the oil is fairly easy. You can do it! Sorry I can't tell you exactly where the bolts and stuff are, but it shouldn't be too challenging. A good start to wrenching, for sure.

Good luck!

I know standard AAA membership does NOT include motorcycle towing, however you can add it on for $35/year (including membership fees). I don't know of any other separate services.

For a cheap GPS unit - ebay or newegg.com. TomToms are quality units and tend to be cheaper than Garmins. I got my TomTom One for < $100. You can get a cigarette light adapter for your bike (if you have a battery tender, you can get one that plugs right into the connectors for that) to charge phone/gps/etc. Just go to your local dealership and they should have seomthing like this.

As for tools: basic tools as you mentioned mentioned. Tire repair kit if you're worried about breaking down. Zip ties. Plexus instead of Windex for your faceshield.

Rotor lock will probably be the easiest type to carry, but know that if someone wants your bike enough they will get it, especially in LA. Make sure you have theft insurance. Don't forget to take the rotor lock off when you go to take off in the morning :)

I just did a 100 mile straight highway ride last week with a throttle boss and it made a HUGE difference in the stress in my wrist. I highly recommend it or something similiar.

Most important part - have fun! Explore. If you're giving yourself 4 days to get there, take your time and see the sights. Get lost. Find some good roads to hit up. Take pictures. Etc etc

Hello - One thing I'm learning as I continue to read more, watch more videos and build more vans out... You can definitely get some cheap "trainers" but 9 out of 10 times, you get what you pay for. I hope these work out. Batteries aren't cheap, on doubt. If you head over to my friends at the "Explorist Life" and check out this video specifically speaking to the pros' & con's of AGM versus Lithium. You may want to rethink your investment.

It will benefit you immensely if you can realistically tally up the devices, lights, USB chargers, etc and determine what their power needs are and then try to determine your usage of each... This will give you a rough guideline in how many Amp Hours you'll need.

Personally I have switched to lithium because the math just makes sense. There are a lot of affordable solutions out there that aren't BattleBorn tagged. For instance there's Orient Power. Will Prose and Jerry G (YouTubers) have done some extensive reviews of Orient's offering and have good things to say. I can vouch for them as well. I currently have 200W in Renogy solar on the roof coming into a Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100/20 Solar Charge Controller 100V 20A. From there it feeds a single 100Ah bank. I also have a Lithium Battery Isolation Manager so I can charge my "house" battery when my "starter" batteries register as fully charged. As an additional power source I have a Xantrex Freedom 806-1840 HF 1800 Inverter/Charger. This allows me to covert my 12VDC to 110VAC but it also always me to plug into my home's 110VAC to charge and power the van. I know you are new to this so I don't expect you to go out and get all this setup... But I figured I'd go down the rabbit if you wanted some food for thought in regards to future proofing your setup.

So one last note for some context to this battery's performance... I have a small Norcold fridge that's always on, 8 LEDs in the ceiling, USB chargers, a Maxxair, two USB powered fans and a 110 outlet to power my laptop... When I had only 1x100W panel up top I will kill the battery before 10pm. I added a second 100W and wired it in series and since then I've not killed the battery. I've consistently woken up in the morning see my meter reading above 12.9V. I've been very happy with Orient Power's offering after 4mo of use so far. I bought a second 100Ah battery to add but at this point I haven't needed it.

Hope this helped..?

Sounds like it's been through a lot. Good to see her getting back on the road. It rode great but with the seat they had on it you could only ride for about an hour. There were no springs or anything, the seat was literally sitting on the frame lol. Engine has already been rebuilt. I'm redoing all the wiring, rear fender, seat, sissy bar, paint. Mostly tcbros parts. If you are ok on spending some cash I found an amazing wiring harness. Kinda pricey but it makes life easier and has some cool features. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0721N9NLL/?coliid=I2AQX76HCMUZ03&colid=3D1X80R8K96I0&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I agree that most aftermarket turn signals are either stupid-looking, invisible or both.

So okay. Here are my favorite aftermarkets. They're Italian, and have been used as OEM signals on many models of Aprilia, Buell and Vespa (off the top of my head). I installed them on my GS500E years ago. They're good looking (smoked lenses, look dark grey in daylight) and really bright when you turn them on.

Oh, did I mention that they're dirt-cheap? They used to cost $8/piece when you purchased them directly from the Harley parts counter.

EDIT Found an article on Canyon Chasers describing the magic of the Buell signals. They recommend that you buy the ones with the flexible stalks straight from the Harley dealer. They might stock them, as they still service Buell bikes. The ones from the dealer, unlike the ones in the Amazon link above, have a flexible stalk. The stalks will bend 90 degrees under pressure without breaking. Apparently the XB9 rear ones had short stalks and front ones had long stalks. Just make sure you order sets (2 left, 2 right) so the little drain hole always ends up on the bottom.

11 lbs.

Yeah, I think I am ok with my 2x Fullriver 224 Amp 6 Volt golf batteries (224Ah @ 12 Volt or 2688Wh) w/ 2000 Watt Pure Sine inverter (to power actual appliances up to and including air conditioners) w/ my suitcase 100 W Solar solution in the back of my Jeep. It's more likely I will drive that apparatus around then I will carry an under-powered 11 lb "battery pack"

Also a retail price of $599. You could reproduce the aforementioned battery bank for the same price:

Fullriver Group GC2 6V 224Ah T-105 AGM Sealed Lead Acid Battery

Yes it weighs 120 lbs for the two of them, but you are getting 4.5 WH per $ as opposed to 0.69 WH per $

Lithium Ion is still EXPENSIVE a f, the advantage obviously is the weight savings, but in this case now you are talking 37.8 WH per LB vs. my setup of 22.4 WH per LB, so you are effectively saving half the weight but paying 5x the cost per WH.

Alternatively you could get a 200Ah Li-Ion battery for $2400 that weight 72 lbs, so similar weight savings at a much better price 1 WH per $

..and for the curious a 35Ah (440Wh) Li-Ion battery for $450 that weighs 10 lbs - so given that price this unit with its electrical "wizardry" built in is not that much of a ripoff.

I'm using these on my CB350. They are pretty solid. The only gripe I have is that it's pretty easy to overshoot turning off turn signals and turn the opposite on one. That aside, they've been pretty good so far. (and they're cheap.)

The only thing you don't get is the ability to turn off the headlight.

I'd really like to find something that can stand on its own without a sub, since none of my groomsmen will have a sub. Other than the Sprites, it looks like the rest of those were designed to be paired w/ a sub.

I saw the Sprites original design was a boombox, which I thought was pretty cool. I think that would be the most practical form that my groomsmen would use. Then I got to thinking, if it's going to be a boombox it needs to have bluetoof and I need to fit an amp and battery. Here's what I came up w/:

speakers $42.70
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-nd90-8-3-1-2-aluminum-cone-full-range-driver-8-ohm--290-210

port tubes $5.14
http://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-speaker-cabinet-port-tube-1-3-8-id-adjustable--260-388

filter parts $17.19
http://www.parts-express.com/jantzen-audio-090mh-20-awg-air-core-inductor-crossover-coil--255-046
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dnr-20-20-ohm-10w-precision-audio-grade-resistor--004-20

amp $16.99
https://www.amazon.com/INSMA-TDA7492P-Amplifier-Wireless-Bluetooth/dp/B01BTJZFY6/ref=sr_1_1?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1467991447&sr=1-1&keywords=bluetooth+speaker+amp+board

battery $15
https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP1250-Alarm-Battery-Terminals/dp/B0010Z4MDK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1468001600&sr=8-7&keywords=12v+sla+battery

battery charger $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LICD2TU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATW4RRWB3JMSM

• handle $3
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ18WLK/ref=crt_ewc_img_huc_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
  
  
• optional $11 voltmeter + USB charger ports
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LUL054Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A11A70Q280RHPK
  
  
• plus another ~$12 in other misc build materials
  
  After adding all that I ended up at about $130 per which is too high. How can I get that down?
  
  What if I used 1 driver per boombox instead of 2...do you think that would still sound decent or is it not going to get loud enough by itself?
  

I've got a kit much like that, and if I were to do it again, I'd get a kit like this every time.

https://www.amazon.com/Iglobalbuy-Powerful-4-Stroke-Compete-Motorized/dp/B06WRQRTH4

Every no name 2 stroke engine kit is about the same, so I'd find the one that makes you happy.

The reason the grubee 2stroke kits and others cost $250 and up, is that they work, right out of the box. Little fiddling, upgrades and re engineers, and good quality control. They all look the same as each other on the outside, but what makes em different is on the inside.

The 4 stroke kits are reverse engineered from an excellent starting point. Even crap build quality will still result in a useable motor.
The 2 strokes weren't, and depend on good finishing to make a good motor. Some of the cheap Chinese engines have it, some don't. If you don't get lucky, it's usually up to you to fix it...

Custom Dynamics has amazing plug-and-play LED lights...super bright and noticable, and the halo effect looks cool. I did both the front blinkers and the rear tail/brake lights on my '18 Fat Boy. The kit I got WILL work for yours, too.

Here's the Amazon link:

Custom Dynamics ProBEAM BCM Compliant Turn Signal Conversion Kit (1157 Rear, 1157 Front) For Harley Davidson
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GBJMLKG

The brand of the taillight I purchased is Motodynamic. I got it from Amazon . It was super easy to install, and it's pretty bright, even in the daylight.

I've found that tool chests make great trunks, they are strong, sturdy and have a place to put a padlock, they are also available in a large variety of sizes to suit individual needs on top of that I find standard trunks due to their shape with curves have wasted space, and the way they hinge halfway up means that they are hard to use to capacity, to me they are only good for helmets, gloves etc. A tool box can be filled to the top.

I mount them using three pieces of metal plate the size of the interior base, one sandwiching each side of the base to give it support and stop flexing and one under the rack. Work out where you need to drill and mark this on one plate, drill and double check that they are in the correct places then use this as the template for drilling the other two and the box.

Its also easy to mount extra lighting to them using something like this

Ok, so I need some help finding a 7-inch headlight bucket that I can put a led light into but the thing is it has to have a lot of junk in the trunk because of the number of wires I have to shove in so it needs a hole in the back of it too.

This is what I'm currently using. If I can get something like this but 7in it would be perfect. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071D3TPQ5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is what I used. Then just drilled a hole in the top corners of a license plate frame and ran the wire through. I will get a picture of them when it is light outside.

Here is a picture I made when I first did them, the white ones you see here wasnt very bright but these black ones seem to be better. They also look better with the black frame. http://imgur.com/3E44Dtn


Partsam LED Strip Light Bar 2X 6 LED Black Third Brake Light Motorcycle Turn Signal Backup License Plate Universal Amber Lights Strip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015H90NBO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pZbIDbBPDH7BV

Thanks, yeah it’s a super cheap light on Amazon too: https://www.amazon.com/Headlight-Housing-Davidson-Motorcycle-Kawasaki/dp/B071D3TPQ5

I’m using just the light, no metal can, and making a custom dash and light can.

Some options for storage available here - https://www.twistedthrottle.com/shop-by-bike/yamaha/mt-09-2018/luggage-racks-for-saddlebags

Perhaps for the price you should just consider a large top case.

As for the LED blinkers, you are totally correct. Most everyone "mods" their stock turns by putting ones directly attached to the headlight. It's almost impossible to see them at night. I prefer ones like these :O.

If you go LED blinkers you'll need one of These.

As for the exhaust, that M4 is one of the only options that can be fit to the stock header. The factory exhaust being one piece means you must CUT your factory exhaust to make the M4 fit. Honestly, it'll be so worth it though. Baffle in M4 sounds Great.

I recommend moving to 12v components and then regulating the power back down to 5v for the Pi. There will be many more options and prices will be better.

Start with a solar panel:
http://www.amazon.com/HQRP-Mono-crystalline-Anodized-Aluminum-Radiation/dp/B002HSUT40

Use a charge controller to attach it to your battery(s):
http://www.amazon.com/Sunforce-7-Amp-Charge-Controller/dp/B0006JO0XI

Attach a voltage regulator to the battery and your Pi:
http://www.amazon.com/Ship-Hobbywing-Switch-mode-UBEC-Lowest/dp/B008ZNWOYY/

As far as batteries go, buying local will save you some shipping. If this is an outside battery you can use a deep cycle/RV battery. If inside then you need something sealed. You should have several days of reserve for bad weather. Maybe something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/26-SEALED-VOLT-DEEP-RECHARGEABLE/dp/B007GCDDOA

yeah that what i was going to reccommend. So if my math is correct (probably not). to run that stereo for 3 hours you would need a 9 amp batter at 12 volts. So to not destroy the battery lets round that up to 27-45 would be better. Then you would only need a small inverter and charger.

http://www.amazon.com/Whistler-Pro-200W-Watt-Power-Inverter/dp/B003R7CAX8

http://www.amazon.com/26-SEALED-VOLT-DEEP-RECHARGEABLE/dp/B007GCDDOA/ref=sr_1_8?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1426616369&sr=1-8&keywords=12+battery

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S

~$100

Thanks for the tip. I ended up buying on Amazon and purchasing the acid as well. Links below.

Battery:
Yuasa YUAM22A5B 12N5.5A-3B Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GZRB6A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_r5Fe7KMKmPrOz

Acid:
WPS Non-Sealed Battery Electrolyte Pack - 850cc 850CC CONV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CKJDW6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_lBXArGBu9ehQL

Headlight Housing (Amazon)

I requested larger fork clamps for the housing to fit the DNM USD-8 since they're 42mm diameter pistons.

Headlight itself (Amazon)

Switch Set (Amazon)

Power Switch (Amazon)

And then as far as the wiring, I crimped all my wires into molex. I use JST a lot but just to be safe with higher amps, molex gives some headroom.

I opened it up and it looks like the fluid is pretty low yet there appears to be some in all 6 cores. I am thinking about ordering

https://www.amazon.com/WPS-Non-Sealed-Battery-Electrolyte-Pack/dp/B003CKJDW6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=battery+acid&qid=1562620488&s=gateway&sr=8-3


and refilling. That should do the trick right ?

I decided not to do the halo. This is the one I got: Akmties Motorcycle Headlight 5.75... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DXVSJJB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

And this casing: HOZAN Black 5.75inch Motorcycle... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071D3TPQ5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Halo looks good but wasn’t worth the price jump to me.

I'd get some taps to splice into your existing wires. One of the photos has the color code on it for the wiring. Looks to be red ground, white running, black brake, yellow left turn and green right turn. I wouldn't waste time with adding resistors. If you are keeping your stock lights also, you shouldn't encounter an issue, but you can always replace your mechanical relay with an electrical one. Just find out if yours is two or three pin and get a replacement like this.

Pretty sure they are these.

It should be noted that the visibility is very directional with these compared to a traditional signal. So wrapping them around a fork tube has the advantage of presenting multiple viewing angles.

Wisamic 5-3/4 5.75 inch LED Headlight - with Halo DRL Compatible with Harley Davidson Dyna Street Bob Super Wide Glide Low Rider Night Rod Train Softail Deuce Custom Sportster Iron 883 -Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DVX9K99/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PPiyDbC43GZ8F



HOZAN Black 5.75inch Motorcycle LED Headlight Housing 5-3/4 LED Headlight Mount for Harley Honda Suzuki Kawasaki Vulcan Cruiser Bike Cafe racers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071D3TPQ5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aQiyDb15VTRTP

You should be fine. I use sulfuric acid, commonly known as battery acid. You use a lot less sulfuric than phos for the same amount of water. My tap is 8.2.

https://www.amazon.com/WPS-Non-Sealed-Battery-Electrolyte-Pack/dp/B003CKJDW6/ref=pd_yo_rr_rp_8?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003CKJDW6&pd_rd_r=1cce90e9-e233-487e-8644-7beb0c40f0c1&pd_rd_w=JC5Rp&pd_rd_wg=wkKN4&pf_rd_i=desktop-yo-rightrails&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=9a9cd2b8-5fc1-437e-b810-e4137af95130&pf_rd_r=WM95W47CM7QGJKEYEY75&pf_rd_s=desktop-yo-rightrails&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=WM95W47CM7QGJKEYEY75

Here you go.

It was a bit more than $8 actually.

The spec sheet says it draws 60 watts.

60 watts times 4 hours is 240 watt hours.

Using a small inverter and 12V lead acid battery, it would take a 20AH battery, 25 taking conversion inefficiency into consideration.

So it will take THIS 19 pound battery to power 4 hours.

is this a good second battery I plan on getting two with a 3000 watt inverter http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007GCDDOA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A33OOXQLQV58WQ

Just did some digging and here they are LED RELAY WITH LOUD TURN NOISE!!!!

I'm not too sure; but I would guess you could just use generic, like this. Or upgrade to LED turn signals and get one of these.

Are your flush mounts LEDs? The lower power they use means they function differently on a stock bike so you've probably had this issue the entire time and haven't noticed. Get a new relay

these are also in my amazon cart if the turnies in this guy cant be made visible somehow...

edit: fuck it i bought em.

2017 with 156 miles on it... original owner (and his son) road it a few miles and then accidentally dropped it off the back of a pickup truck.

The front wheel had a small bend/flat spot but he had it replaced before selling it to me.

New parts coming in tomorrow but I've been riding it with some basic stuff i slapped on it from my garage.

The damage so far:

• Headlight
  
• Headlight Bucket & Mount
  
• Signals
  
• Mirrors
  
• TrailTech Gauges
  
• Levers
  
  Got a K&N airfilter and 4 oil filters + some 10-40 Yamalube coming too!
  
  So stoked, already put about 120 miles on it :D
  
  This thing is total goat, I had a DR250 which was an incredible bike too, but this thing is wild...
  
  
  Edit - Any recommendations for stuff i should get or do to this bike? I'm following the break-in period, aiming for no more than 1/3 throttle until 600 miles, then 1/2 throttle till 1000. Oil changes along the way.