Reddit mentions: The best pullers

This is the best answer here. The upper and lower "mounts" are struts that unbolt without needing to support the engine. There's a plastic plug in the passenger wheel well, pop that out and you'll find the motor mount bolt. It's a large torx head, T50 or T55. Support the engine with something that will allow you to either raise the engine or lower the body at least another 8 to 14 inches. Pull the motor mount bolt, disengage the motor mount from the aluminum engine plate and raise the engine/lower the body until the engine plate can be removed. Be careful to not damage the coolant reservoir while raising the engine. This is how the car was designed to be serviced. From there its pretty easy. Oh yeah, one of the first steps should be pulling the grille and upper radiator support for easy access to the PS pump bolts. You'll need a GM/Chrysler harmonic balancer puller, no getting around that. It can seem challenging until you get one or two of these under your belt then it's an easy 2.5-3 hour T belt/water pump job.

We have a kitchen cupboard full of Nuun electrolyte tablets because my SO subscribed to them on Amazon and never unsubscribed. I'm looking forward to them being used. They are super great though.

I've been meaning to go through this thread from last year to see what people recommended.

My recomendations are;

A big vacuum insulated growler (why is that the American word for drink bottle?!) to put in your bike basket/pannier so you can have a cold drink after hours of riding around.

This screw top pot of smelly stuff for clearing your sinuses. It's herbs that smell like vix vapor rub and it's great, especially on the playa.

This battery operated personal mister that goes in the cup holder my bike already had.

Pickle flavored candy canes. These didn't even make it to the playa last year. I ate them all within a day of them being delivered.

If you use rebar (like for monkey huts, I don't think lag bolts are really an alternative there) this will be your favorite thing at pack down.

I highly suggest a hand packer. You'll need a jack capable of lifting your trailer (I highly suggest a bottle jack), and stands to support it while your wheels are off. You'll need a 1-1/2 socket (I won't use a wrench on the castle nut), cotter pins if that's what your axle uses. You won't know until you take it apart so just buy a kit since they're cheap and you can use them if/when you need to work on your awning anyway. I use water pump pliers to remove the dust cap without damaging it. You'll need a seal puller. Breaker bar, torque wrench, and sockets to fit your lug nuts. Brake clean, I use varsol to clean everything but the drum. Varsol and cast iron don't mix. I'll clean everything after the varsol with brake clean because it evaporates. You'll need high temperature high pressure grease and new seals (if you bring your make and rating of axle to a dealer they can hook you up).

Jack up the trailer, take off the wheels, pop off the dust cap, take off the cotter pin or other retainer, remove the nut, washer, outer bearing, remove the drum, remove the seal, remove the inner bearing. Clean the bearings with varsol, clean everything with brake clean, blow everything with compressed air to evaporate the brake clean, pack new grease into the bearings, coat the axle spindle with grease, coat the bearing races with grease, reassemble.

The correct torque on the axle nut is 50ft/lbs while spinning the wheel to set the bearings, then loosen and retighten to finger tight.

Just replaced my worn Carbon GT pulley with a steel pulley a couple weeks ago! It was incredibly frustrating and took me a lot of trial and error to figure it out, but this battery terminal puller is the main tool I used.

I also bought a heat gun to heat up the pulley's loctite to make removal easier and had to drill out the grub screws because I'm pretty sure I stripped them while trying to unscrew them. You also need a 1/2"-1" screw or small metal rod that fits the 8mm diameter bore of the axle so you can use that as leverage with the terminal puller to pop off the pulley.

This probably sounds unclear and complicated because it totally was to me when I started, but one of my next Electric Wave episodes will be focused solely on explaining this procedure. I've already shot the footage, I just need to edit it together. I'll get it up as soon as I can so you can get yours removed as well. Feel free to DM me with any questions in the mean time and I'll do my best to answer them.

Alright... ignoring the fact that your asking how to install gears implies heavily that you don't know the first step... OR the first thing. Here's the basic run down. I'm not going to go into detail on torque specs, or specific procedure... i'd be here all night on a how-to that most people don't give two shits about. I'm also doing this ONLY for the 8.25. DANA 44's are too rare in stock, and DANA 35's don't deserve to be rebuilt.

Tools needed:

1. Bearing race set tool: http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-bearing-race-and-seal-driver-set-95853.html
   
2. Clamshell Bearing puller: http://www.amazon.com/G2-Axle-Gear-80-BRGPLLR-Clamshell/dp/B004PHV7DI
   
3. Micrometer: http://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-Caliper-Electronic-Micrometer/dp/B006Y1OWKS
   
4. Backlash Indicator: http://www.amazon.com/Allstar-ALL96414-0-001-Increment-Indicator/dp/B006K8WANQ
   
5. Torque Wrench: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24335-2-Inch-Torque-10-150-Foot/dp/B00C5ZL0RU
   
6. 12 ton shop press: http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-shop-press-33497.html
   
7. Cold Chisel: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6738-Chisel-Punch-12-Piece/dp/B000NPR3IO
   
8. Magnet on a stick
   
9. Needle nose pliers, or whatever pliers will fit
   
10. 3-5lb Maul
    
    Parts needed:
    
11. The gears. duh
    
12. Master rebuild kit with TIMKEN bearings.
    
13. Gear oil.
    
14. Marking compound, if the rebuild kit doesn't come with it... If it doesn't, you bought a cheap kit. shame. SHAME.^SHAME.^SHAME.
    
    On a 8.25...
    
15. Pull diff cover.
    
16. Pull pinion yoke nut.
    
17. Remove center pin bolt, and pull center pin from carrier.
    
18. Push Axle shafts in to the center housing.
    
19. Look for the little C clip inside the carrier. Use you stick magnet to pull them out. Repeat for the other axle.
    
20. Pull axle shafts out of both sides.
    
21. Use your cold chisel to put a mark on the left bearing cap ridge. make one mark. make one mark on the left side housing as well. Make two marks on the right side bearing cap. Make two marks on the right side housing as well. PAY ATTENTION WHEN REASSEMBLING. Bearing caps are side specific, and switching them can result in early bearing failure. Set bearing caps and bearing cap bolts in a clean area.
    
22. Pull out main carrier.
    
23. Put carrier in a vise, and with your torque wrench, remove the bolts holding the ring gear in place. tap the ring gear evenly around the sides to remove.
    
24. Use the Clamshell bearing puller to pull the bearings off the carrier.
    
25. Use the shop press to install the new bearings on the carrier.
    
26. Put the new ring gear on the carrier. Push it on lightly with your hands, install 2-4 bolts to hold it in place. Count the turns as the bolts catch. install the rest of the bolts with the same amount of turns. Tighten all bolts in a star pattern in even increments to 40 ft/lbs. then to 60 ft/lbs. then finally 80 ft/lbs.
    
27. Pull the pinion yoke if you haven't already. pull the pinion. if it doesn't come out, hit it with a hammer. use some wood if you plan on saving the gear set for whatever reason.
    
28. Use cold punch to remove bearing races from the rear of the housing. don't fuck up the housing mating surface, or it'll leak no matter how many times you replace the pinion seal.
    
29. Install the new bearing races with the bearing race set tool and your maul.
    
30. Install the bearing on the pinion.
    
31. Measure the old shims with your micrometer. Install the same thickness shims in the pinion to start.
    
32. Place the pinion in the housing. New bearing should be in place on the pinion and in the housing at this point. IF not, you need to learn to read.
    
33. Measure the thickness of the carrier bearings. Place new bearings of the same thickness to start.
    
34. Place carrier, bearing outer races and shims in all at once.
    
35. Put old crush sleeve and old bearing on the new pinion. A die grinder to grind out some of the inner old bearing race makes a good setup bearing. tighten the pinion nut.
    
36. Place marking compound on 5 ring gear teeth, both sides.
    
37. Spin the carrier to determine pattern. consult pattern guide included with your kit. you kit didn't come with a guide? shoulda bought Yukon gears.
    
38. If you pattern isn't conforming to the guide, add or remove shims from the pinion or carrier.
    
39. Once you think you have a good pattern, setup the dial indicator and measure backlash. Ideal is .8-.12 thousandths. if you're in the .12 or above, or .8 or below, add or remove shims to move the pinion in or out, or the carrier left or right. this can require some time dedication.
    
40. Once your happy with your gears, pull the carrier back out. Install new inner seals if you have them.
    
41. Remove the old crush sleeve and place a new one. Torque to the recommended spec.
    
42. Measure drag on the pinion with the torque wrench. should be ~8-10ft/lbs if i recall.
    
43. Place carrier back in the housing.
    
44. Replace carrier bearing caps and torque.
    
45. Re-torque pinion nut.
    
46. Replace axle shafts.
    
47. Replace c-clips.
    
48. Replace center pin and bolt.
    
49. Replace cover. seal well. sitting overnight is ideal.
    
50. Fill with 80w-90 gear oil.
    
    Go for a drive. If everything was done right, you should now have more power, and no rear end noise. if you do... you need to take the rear apart again, and reset the gears to clear the noise.
    
    I'm sure i forgot something, like thrust washers. Don't crucify me for it. If you want a REAL guide, you need to do more research.

Good job. I know you're finished, but there's a tool for this. It attaches to the end of a slide hammer.

Shankly Rear Axle Bearing Puller, Axle Bearing Puller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072KYKPVV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7QP5BbV2DG90N

I bought mine (OTC) from the pawn shop (I work on a fleet of crown vics for a security company). Super easy with this tool.

And unlike a cup n cone, you can bring these beauties back to like new every time :) you will however need some way to get the cartridges out and back in squarely, or you can damage the hubshell. A tool like this is the cheap way to remove though they can be pretty finicky. A proper slide-hammer bearing puller can be fairly expensive. Then you can carefully tap the new bearing in with a socket the same size as the outer race of the cartridge (never tap the inner race when installing or you will damage the bearings!), or alternatively shell out some money for a proper bearing drift. Good luck with the overhaul!

I run into this every now and then.

• Sometimes it's just a mater of getting the seal out. The ghetto drill 2-3 holes and put wood/self tapping screws into them and pull or Lisle make a shaft seal puller. I slide a piece of plastic in between the seal and the tube (ala seal-mate style) to protect the tube. Once the seal is out sometimes you can see what is going on or just by getting the seal out it will free up the upper bushing.
  
• If people have been mean with a seal puller, snap rings or just sometimes poor machining there will be a little lip that stops the upper bushing from freely sliding out and then the lower tries to go under the upper bushing causing it to close up on the fork tube and stick it in place. This goes back to the above, once the seals out, you might be able to see what is happening and clean it up.
  
• Heating. You heat the outer slider around the upper bushing area. The aluminum expands at a much greater rate than the steel tube making the bore diameter physically larger. Sometimes enough to slide the lower bushing under the upper. If the sliders are clear coated or painted this can be a good way to destroy the coating. If they are raw aluminum or polished you can get them much hotter than you think.
  
• To press, most shops aren't set up to do this and don't have the fixturing on hand or a press with enough clearance.
  
  Working with them in the triple tree on the bike or in a old tree in a vise makes it much easier to make better use of the slide hammering action.

That piece of metal looks like it bolts under the chain cover and rides about .25 inches off the chain. It makes sure the chain can't get loose and skip a tooth on the front sprocket. It's also extra protection if the chain breaks, it might stop the chain from flinging forward and taking out the engine case. I may be wrong on identifying this part, that's just my best guess. It's not required to ride the bike, but it's nice to have.

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/0kdDaZ4EAyA/maxresdefault.jpg

That's a good example of the guide, this one wraps around almost 180 degrees of the front sprocket.

As for your oil leak, there is no camshaft seal. To get some terminology right, a seal is used to keep oil in between a solid case part and a spinning shaft. A gasket is used between 2 solid case parts that don't move. The camshaft is higher up on the motor and it doesn't have an external seal, so it can't be leaking. This could be your output shaft seal. It goes behind your front sprocket.

http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2007-yamaha-virago-250-ca-xv250w1c/o/m145022#sch533970

If it doesn't link directly, put in your bike model, select transmission, oem parts, transmission. Number 25. Youll need an impact gun or a big breaker bar to get the front sprocket off, and a seal puller to get the old one out.

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56750-Seal-Puller/dp/B0002SRCKG

Youll also need a hammer and the proper size socket to use as a driver to put the new on in. Don't forget to grease it up before installing it, helps it go in easier.

If the leak isn't coming from behind the sprocket, post a few pictures of where it is coming from and send me a pm, I'll help ID what's leaking. The only other option on that side of the bike though is the shifter seal or the crankcase inspection port o-ring.

Edit: you don't need a breaker bar for your front sprocket. Not sure how that sprocket mounts, but it doesn't have the single large nut most bikes do.

Thanks. That's good to know. The stinger is supposed to be their lesser line. I guess it's pretty good.

I was looking at the higher end line version the silver slapper
OTC (1179) Silver Slapper 8-Way Slide Hammer Puller Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00061SLWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Evw1xbK8MP3BT

If you would like to purchase a couple tools that will make your life easier that would be my preference. Not saying ive never hammered and screw driver bearings out ( it doesnt matter if you beat them up as long as you do not damage hub). I bought a bearing remover for my dirt bike and it works well with my bike as well.

Also you can get a bearing press for cheap money. Makes life easier and you can use it if you ever replace headset cups or anything. You can def. get away with using a socket to pound in the bearing if you do not want the tools.

https://www.amazon.com/TOOL-BEARING-WOB-UNIVERSAL-PRESS/dp/B01MU3K0I1/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=37PM0YIDFQV6Q&keywords=tool+bearing+wob+universal+bb+press&qid=1569354103&s=gateway&sprefix=tool+bearing+%2Caps%2C138&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=AMY4I718ZUBOU&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzM0I4VUJORjlYSzBEJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjMwODIxMzRLTkFUWEdQUkJLOSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzE3NjA3MTFORDBNWEo3S1pTVyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W1219-Professional-Puller/dp/B000FW7W6S/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=performance+tool+w1219&qid=1569354202&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Use one of these.

They are made for pulling steering wheels, but they fit our rotors perfectly. Two bolts will thread into the rotor, then the middle will press against the axle in the center (leave the axle nut on until you get the rotor off).

If the radiator top is olive or brown, replace the radiator while you're at it. TYC brand from Amazon is direct fit. Swap over the bushings (ignore the auto trans connections if yours is a manual--they connect to a separate chamber) and reinstall. Also replace the cap. If the plastic rad top is still black, OK to keep as-is.

I would replace the CAS O-ring with a new one and also the valve cover gasket (with a Mazda brand gasket).

Your TB kit should include new cam seals and a crank seal as well as idler pulley and tensioner pulley. I wouldn't mess with the crank seal myself if the existing one is not leaking. Same with cam seals if you don't have to pull them to get down to the head gasket...?

BTW this is my preferred seal puller: https://smile.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Shaft-Type-Puller/dp/B000FPYW4K

Also, it's only part of your planned job but you may find it helpful: TB/WP replacement worklist

Bobcat mouthpiece puller--it's a life saver. You can find it here among other places.

The first thing I would do after getting the mouthpiece un-stuck would be to take all the slides and the valves out and dip that baby (slides and all, but NOT the valves. You can hand-wash those, avoiding the felts obviously) in a tub of warm water and gentle dish soap. Let it soak, scrub the tubing out with a soft brush and then towel-dry with a soft towel. When it's been cleaned out, then you can use a polishing cloth on it that pertains to the finish of it. They make polishing cloths for lacquered brass, as well as ones that work for silver-plated. Just make sure you get the right one.

I have an Arcan floor jack and it's very well made. This one is $100, which is a really good price for a good company.

I just looked up this tool online and it looks like a thing that holds the battery peg downward and pulls upward on the terminal connector easily, looks like its what im wanting since the battery peg is getting ripped out when I just use a screwdriver to pry it. is this the right tool? https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4611-Battery-Terminal-Puller/dp/B000ZIZ32W

Picked this up.

OTC 7509 Inner CV Joint Puller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O825QU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_z5K6AbE1RPD81


Seems like the easiest solution.

Get two pry bars. Pry at 180 degrees opposite of each other. If the stub doesn't pop out, rotate the stub 15-30 degrees at a time and keep trying. If that doesn't work get some friends and more pry bars. If it doesn't come out get a slide hammer on eBay and buy a vice grip attachment like these OTC 6627 Grip Wrench Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007QV9ZCK?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf or consider drilling holes or cutting grooves in it with a grinder and using the slide hammer.

I have this one from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/WHDZ-Repair-Damage-Removal-Hammer/dp/B01H88XOOK/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=pdr%2Btools&qid=1551303667&s=gateway&sr=8-6&th=1

In your case, I think you just might need the dent puller tool instead :https://www.amazon.com/Super-PDR-Bridge-Puller-Removal/dp/B07B9ZLG1D/ref=sr_1_4_sspa?keywords=pdr+tools&qid=1551303850&s=gateway&sr=8-4-spons&psc=1

​

If you can find some old car that has dents on it, I recommend you practice on it if you plan to use the little dent pushers. Watch some videos as well on PDR tools too.

Where's the axle stuck? If it's stuck in the transmission or on an intermediate shaft, they make an adapter to kinda cup around the back of the inner housing.

If it's stuck in the hub, they come with a center bolt to help press it inward (put the cone on the hub, then the bolt through it onto the end of the axle). They can't really apply a ton of pressure though. In my experience, if an air hammer won't get it, I need to remove the knuckle and use the shop press.

I wouldn't recommend the HF slide hammer though. HF is $70 (before coupon) but the OTC is $85. HF has 90 day warranty and OTC has lifetime warranty.

So anyway, the problem is that the HF uses a weird thread so you can't use those other attachments that are pretty much standardized to use the OTC thread. So bearing pullers and that axle puller and whatever other attachment can't be used with the HF, and HF may not make all of the attachments you need.

Also, the OTC comes with an additional size hub thing, which is the most common part you'll use.

The HF hub adapter is pretty weak also. Everyone I know that's had one ended up breaking that piece in half. This is my HF that I ended up replacing with the OTC that's been problem free for 10+ years; I probably use it once every month or two.

I would use more heat, and employ a bearing puller.

And then I would throw away that bearing and use a new one. I doubt you need to replace the case.

This is a good example of why it's super important to keep the bearing square to the hole and use a proper bearing driver to insert it.

I used this puller when removing the inner shaft from a Camry. Worked like a charm. I also was able to reverse the hooks and use it to pull out the old oil seals.

The best tool is a slide-hammer with an axle adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-7509-Inner-Joint-Puller/dp/B000O825QU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-KFabO3-1C8

Autozone has tools to lend including a slide hammer, not sure about the axle adapter part.

You can buy tools just for this purpose, just make sure that the middle post is small enough to fit in the gears hole. The link is for a random example.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Inch-3-Jaw-Gear-Puller/dp/B06XP5J2X1&ved=2ahUKEwiejvnhzf_hAhVGIKwKHTyRAB8QFjAPegQIARAB&usg=AOvVaw0r5w7xI-QWLg6aPQ59QBG9

http://www.amazon.com/Generic-5366-Bobcat-Mouthpiece-Puller/dp/B0002DUQC2

Fucking this!! Keep it with you at all times. You could even start charging your fellow band members if you feel like branching out.

Buy a nut that fits those bolts and rent/borrow a sliding hammer from a car parts store (the ones in my city let you have it for a day with credit card on file for damages). Put the nut on the bolt, grab it with the sliding hammer jaws, proceed to hammer it out.

Thanks. Can i fit this floor jack in my trunk at all times? Should i go low profile or extra low profile? I have a mi nivan

https://www.amazon.com/Arcan-XL2T-Black-Profile-Service/dp/B00BMPFI6I/

You can tap it with the wrench you used to remove the nut. This can free up the wedge they use to tighten the clamp. If tapping doesn't work you can use a screw driver to gently pry the clamp off. Too hard and you can rip the post its self out of the battery, ask me how i know that. If it really gives you trouble get one of these, any parts stores should have them.

You may need a pulley removal tool like this: https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Inch-3-Jaw-Gear-Puller/dp/B06XP5J2X1

Also, just double checking that we are talking about the bolts and cover plate that are shown in place, in your picture

Looks like could be different weights for a slide hammer similar to this slide hammer

A seal puller might help. Another trick that I know works on mountain bike forks and might transfer to yours is to pry the seal out with the round end of a tire lever.

I just did the Rear Main Seal on my Subaru. Tried that seal puller, couldn't get a good angle on it. This one worked for me finally:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56750-Seal-Puller/dp/B0002SRCKG

edit: that red one works better on smaller seals.

This thing is worth 10x what they charge for it even if you only use a couple times.

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Shaft-Type-Puller/dp/B000FPYW4K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427590946&sr=8-1&keywords=lisle+seal+puller

If you can i'd see if a local supply store has them.

Soak it in penetrating oil overnight. Heat the top of the fork with a heat gun.

Buy one of these. http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56750-Seal-Puller/dp/B0002SRCKG

Use it like this:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HWLE_jjEKZI

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56750-Seal-Puller/dp/B0002SRCKG

Will that seal puller work with the transmission countershaft still in place?

>>Not sure how that sprocket mounts, but it doesn't have the single large nut most bikes do.

The OP will have to remove 2 small bolts and the sprocket retainer bolted to the countershaft sprocket
to get it off.

A mouthpiece puller

A mouthpiece puller, looks really similar to this one:
https://www.amazon.ca/Generic-5366-Bobcat-Mouthpiece-Puller/dp/B0002DUQC2

Source: Parents were music teachers, used to have a bunch around the house

Aaaaand added to cart.

OTC 4579 9-Way Slide Hammer Puller Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015DMNIS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Tmw1xbVQ17QPE

This or this

Simpler to just go with a seal puller

Battery terminal puller:

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4611-Battery-Terminal-Puller/dp/B000ZIZ32W

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ZIZ32W?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I knew that. 😨