Reddit mentions: The best quilting supplies

Below are tools/materials I use all the time. I keep them super handy on my work station.

Stamps/Stamping Platform/Blocks: Clear cling stamps are going to be the most space efficient for you. I buy lots of clear stamps and metal dies on ebay to save money but the quality is not nearly as good as US-made brands. If you have wood mounted stamps you can unmount them for use with the stamp platform and for easier storage. There are tutorials online. I second and third other people's recommendations of the Tim Holtz stamp platform. I use it ALL the time. You can get placement perfect for stamps but I also love it because you can reink and stamp a couple times to get a more even and inked impression. Like /u/erwtje-be said, you can put a piece of craft foam on the platform and sometimes that helps get better impressions. I get the thinner craft foam at dollar tree and also use it to raise larger sections of the card up for some dimension. For the thicker craft foam go to Michael's or another craft store. I do use acrylic blocks from time to time too. I find the round/scalloped edge type are the ones I grab most often.

Inks: My two most used inks are VersaMark and VersaFine. I use VersaMark for most of my embossing but there are awesome other techniques you can use it with too. VersaFine gets the best edges and details IMO for all regular stamping. I highly recommend the full size. Don't bother with the itty bitty baby cubes. The great thing about both of these is they can be reinked.

Embossing Powder Tool: You use this to remove static from your paper before stamping embossing ink and applying powder so the powder only sticks to your sentiment and not to finger prints or other parts of the paper. You can make your own (tutorial) buy one like this or this. I have all three but use my home made one (6 years ago) the most often. I second /u/sm9406's powder list and point that it elevates the look and feel of your cards exponentially. You can do everything with black, white, clear, silver, and gold. Use the antistatic tool on the paper that catches your embossing powder to get as much of it back in the container as possible.

Scissors/Tape/Glue: I use my Tim Holtz non-stick serrated scissors everyday. They are for cutting adhesive tapes/double stick foam. They are great if you buy tape on rolls, not necessary if you use the plastic applicator double stick stuff. I find that much less versatile than buying rolls of double stick tape and foam tape. I personally buy mine from DAISO but you may not have that store where you are. They have all different widths and I find the quality cannot be beat for $1.50 a roll. Scor Tape is also excellent though it is much more expensive. My favorite glue is the ZIG two way glue pen. When it's blue and wet it is permanent or if you let it dry clear it can be used to temporarily bond things.

Tweezers: I never bothered to get tiny craft tweezers for a looong time and now I realize how much time and headache could been avoided if I'd only known how much I would use them. To remove double stick tape backing, to position small glued elements, to pick up and place tiny embellishments, etc. These are by far the best tweezers I've bought. I tried some knock off alternatives but they honestly don't even come close. If you're going to get tweezers, I highly suggest these by EK Tools.

Ruler/Layer Tool: I'm absolutely obsessed with this tool. If you like the clean look of layered/matted paper on your cards it is a must. It will look perfect every time. You use this with an Xacto or other craft knife. You will want a self healing mat or a tempered glass cutting surface. I prefer the glass mat over the self healing because you can glue on it and ink on it and then scrape or wash it off. That link is to the one I have, it is a bit large. I know they make smaller ones though. My favorite ruler is by Tim Holtz It has the metal edge so you can run your craft knife against it. I cut things by hand with the ruler and layer tools much more often than with the paper cutter.

ScorBuddy: Like /u/Mystery_Substance suggested, the ScorPal is awesome. They make a mini version called the ScorBuddy and I use that 99% of the time over my larger one. The big one is mostly useful if you're going to make your own envelopes which I don't really do.

It all depends on what type of builder/crafter you want to get into. Buying all the "machines" and tools for someone that would be a foamsmith but you're really a needlework kind of person makes it a potential waste of money and time (and vice versa).

IF you want to get into an overall crafting/building in general, here are the tools and materials I've gathered for my workshop:

I'm gonna put the word **Optional** for the items that are not completely necessary for first time builders, but definitely worth while down the road.

• Breakaway blades - You can get a pack and break away the blade once it dulls or no longer sharpens.
  
• Rotary cutting wheel - for quick fabric cuts https://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-195210-1001-Comfort-Rotary-Cutter/dp/B000B7M8WU/
  
• Kershaw Sharpening stone - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WALUV6/
  
• Dremel (or rotary tool) - I've seen these go for as low as $30 for one that has 2 speeds. Since it's mostly for costuming, the 2 speeds is plenty.
  
• Besides the Dremel, if you can, pick up a Belt Sander **Optional** from Harbor Frieght (particularly when it goes on sale and they issue a 20% coupon) I got mine for around $50 and it is a time saver!
  
• Heat gun, I picked one up from Harbor Freight and it was under $10 at the time. It's still going strong and I have had no issues.
  
• Wood Burning Tool **Optional** - This will help you add some great details on the foam. There is a good starter kit also that contains a bunch of nibs, including a soldering nib, as well as a hot knife attachment. The hot knife will cut through foam like butter. One note though, if you don't plan on getting a separate dedicated hot knife, use the one that comes w/ the kit for the finer cuts. The wood burner is a very versatile tool!
  
• For the glue. I would suggest Barge Contact cement or DAP Weldwood. This is what I use and it's proven to be a great option. Hot glue is still very helpful and can be used for quick fixes or adding additional bond. My only reason for not using hot glue for foam is that it takes time to cure and you have to hold it in place. Also, sometimes it creates messy seams.
  
• Kwik Seal paintable caulk or flexible spackle - to cover up the seams you can use either of these. Difference between the two, 1) the caulk needs to be smoothed out before it dries, you can use water. 2) the spackle can be sanded after it dries if you don't apply it smooth the first time.
  
• On the topic of concealing seams or general sculpting, you should look into Foam Clay. It is very malleable and once cured overnight, it's basically shaped foam.
  
• Mod Podge or Flexible Clear Coat spray **Optional** - To coat the finished and painted product, you will want to use something that will protect it and also be flexible. Unless, you want it to be very rigid, you can use Epsilon Pro to coat it, but I can't guarantee that it won't crack. Especially areas that will need some flex. I say this is optional because some crafters don't do clear coating.
  
• Eye Protection & Mask - you don't want fine bits of foam flying into your eyes or lungs. Make sure you get eye pro and a good fine-filter respirator.
  
• Sewing machine - I'm not a needlework expert, but having one is great for sewing straps, hook & loop, minor clothing, etc... Obviously if this is more your expertise, get one that you know you'll love and have great use of.
  
• Cutting Mat - Useful for both the foamsmith and the needlework crafters. I've used both the Fiskars and the US Art Supply brands. Personally the US Art Supply one is way better IMO. It holds up to more cuts and abuse.
  
  Here are some helpful options for your search for EVA foam. Hopefully one of the stores I list here will be some-what local for you. Home Depot, Lowes, 5 Below, BJ's, Costco, Walmart, & Harbor Freight all carry the EVA (floor mat) foam. I have personally purchased and used foam from all of these locations.
  
  
• Your standard craft foam (from craft stores like JoAnne's or Michaels) will be anywhere between 2mm - 6mm. These are great for accent pieces or adding fine details. Keep in mind anything under 8mm will need some sort of rigid structure in order to maintain a good shape for armor. (like cardboard or something) FYI - Joanne's now carries the Yaya Han branded EVA foam mats in various thicknesses.
  
• Harbor Freight has 4 (24"x24") tiles for $8.99 and sometimes have an additional 20% off coupon circulating around. The back of their EVA foam is a standard heat treated texture. They also carry a 72" long (8mm) foam roll with a heat treated diamond patterned back for $9.99.
  
• At BJ's & Costco, I've bought some from these places as well, they carry 8 (24"x24") tiles for $9.89. But people have complained of its quality. (I personally have never had any notable issues with them.) The back of their EVA foam is generally heat treated usually w/ a diamond pattern.
  
• Home Depot & Lowes carries the 4 pack (25"x25") anywhere between $20 - $25. The back of their EVA foam is a standard heat treated texture. Though these seem fine, they are more expensive and are just like the ones at Harbor Freight.Walmart carries a 12 pack (24"x24") for around $18 - $20. The back of their EVA foam is the typical heat treated texture.
  
• 5 Below carries single tiles (no packs) (multiple colors) for $5.00. Same as the others, standard heat treated texture on the other side.
  
• TNT Cosplay Supply carries various sizes and thicknesses of EVA/Craft foam without the heat treatment backing. This is especially good if you don't want to have to deal with sanding down the heat treated backing to help glue adhere better. They are more expensive, but the quality is always great.
  
  Helpful links from the masters: Evil Ted Smith , Punished Props , Odin Makes , KamuiCosplay.
  
  Hope this helps.
  
  *note some prices are subject to change*

Hello everyone! I've been having a lot of fun with this latest project. I've learned a lot

1. Hoops for a project that is over 10 inches both ways sucks.
   
   
2. I love this lap stand that a poster here suggested (thank you whoever it was!! Maybe u/wildviolet ?). Notice how each side is adjustable? That means when I am doing this big project, I can shorten one side, have it sit on the arm of my chair, have the other leg longer ...so the project is the same height, but the whole thing doesn't have to be centered on my lap. That has Really helped with shoulder pain, as I don't have to reach as far to get to the far left (or right) of the frame, and I can still sit in my comfy recliner.
   
   
3. Always check the size of the pattern before you buy it. I thought awww cute... a little bull dog for my friend. Bought it, went to buy materials and it's the largest project I've done to date! I decided to do it anyways, Luckily she can't complain about size as it's a gift ;)
   
   
4. Cats love lap stands. Picture of proof included.
   
   
5. Must have cat free room/space to store lap stand if you have cats. You just can't leave it in your chair, they would get on it way too much.
   
   
6. I love the John James petite needles. I thought they would be too small after they arrived. But after a few weeks of using them on this, they work great! I haven't had an threads break due to the eyes. Every eye fit the needle minder. I even bought some regular size needles to try from john james, but haven't bothered to try them yet.
   
   
7. Magnetic bored is nice to hold the chart. BUT. I highly suggest get one with a stand. The flat laying one gets annoying. So does it being smaller then the paper size, as the edges get all bent up. Maybe I will buy a better one when I can afford it.
   
   
8. the recommended amount of floss sometimes is not near enough. I don't know what they did their calculations on, but woah. I ran out of the main navy blue color by the first page.
   
   
9. Hobby Lobby is MUCH nicer then joann's in my town for cross stitch.
   
   10 . Hobby lobby has a 90 day return policy. So, after I ran out of floss, I went there, bought a whole handful of the same lot. What I don't use, I can return! As long as I don't put it on a bobbin. This way I make sure to get all I need in the same lot, but don't waste too much money
   
   
10. the bobbin cranks are a waste of money. I will be returning the one I bought. It's just 2 dollars, but it's useless.
    
    I think that is enough lessons for now. Hope everyone is having a great day.

Here's my starting out basics list:

Must have:

A cutting mat - I have this Cutting Mat which has both standard and metric measurements, very handy for watch straps which are in mm

Ruler - Something like this you probably want cork-backed metal for non-slip and to protect the leather surface, size is up to you

Cutting Tool - I recommend both a very sharp knife like a Stanley utility knife which you probably already own, plus a Rotary Cutter - way more useful than you realize. This is a deep rabbit hole, there are a huge selection of fantastic cutting tools out there, I would say if you get serious this should be an early upgrade but for getting started, a rotary + detail knife is a good start

Wing Divider - Marking patterns, stitch lines, a million other uses, something like this

Fastening - if you're stitching, you need waxed thread and blunt tip needles, as well as an awl (this is one tool that is not worth cheaping out on, get a Barry King and be done with it) and a set of pricking irons, generally a 6-prong (or so) for long straight runs, and a 2-prong for corners. I'm not recommending a specific brand here because the price range is large, and I think there are a lot of newer players making good quality products. I started with Seiwa chisels and they served me well until I upgraded to Muxi Irons, will probably go KS blade punch at some point.

Alternately you can use rivets and a rivet setter (make sure the sizes match); either way you'll want contact cement as well, barge or weldwood are good choices from any hardware store

Helpful items:

Wax paper - you can use it to get nice straight lines with your contact cement

Stitching Pony - I did without one for the first few months but it's a lifesaver, this would be an early priority if you're stitching things

Thread nippers - cheap and convenient These

Skife/Skiver/Skiving knife - Used to thin the edges of pieces and reduce bulk/combine more seamlessly This or This

Isopropyl alcohol - used for cleaning surfaces and diluting dye, if you choose to dye your pieces

Other stuff:

Edges - Edge finishing is whole art in itself, there are different techniques depending on preference and the type of leather used, and accordingly will require different tools. If you're going for the rustic look, you can leave your edges unfinished. Where I live in Portland, lots of people actually prefer that look, but to each their own. Veg tan is most often finished by burnishing the edges, with involves sanding until completely smooth, then wetting with water or gum tragacanth, and rubbing briskly with something smooth, generally a wood burnisher, followed by some wax and another burnish with something like canvas to seal the edge. Chrome tanned leather is generally finished with edge paint or by rolling the edge over so there is no exposed edge.

Dying - If you're using fiebings, MAKE SURE you get the "professional oil dye" line, the standard line bleeds color like crazy. It's an alcohol-based dye so you can dilute with isopropyl/rubbing alc and you can also combine colors without issue to create your own. Two coats gives a nice deep color, and once it's dry buff it with a dry cotton rag to get off any excess. I use pieces of 2" foam to apply it, those tiny daubers don't do much for larger pieces. Also get some nitrile gloves, you'll thank me later.

Beyond that, you start getting into lots and lots of specialty tools, which you'll be able to identify when you get there for specific application. But hopefully this helps and gives you a basic rundown.

You're doing way better than you think you are!

I'm probably gonna repeat things other people said but here we go:

1. You should trim the squares before joining them together, that way you know for sure they will match (you need to cut the square by taking the diagonal line on the ruler and using the diagonal line on the sew line so that the square is perfect, that way the diagonal sew line will end directly in the corner of the square, I hope this makes sense lol). Trimming the squares will also make it so you have less fabric overhanging in your edges (but having some is fine, dont worry about that, it all gets sewed up anyways! =P)
   
2. For sewing straight, try not to move the fabric too much and just let machine moving, I realized 90% of the "moving" was actually me, the machine will stay "fairly" straight if you leave it, specially for smaller pieces like we use. I also have a foot that measures 1/4', so as long as the edge of my fabric lines up with the edge of the foot (which is easy to keep track while you sew) you should be perfect! (Also, I notice that when my lines aren't perfectly straight nothing really happens unless it's ridiculously skewed, so again, no stressing!)
   
3. Use pins or clips!!! I go these from amazon and I love them! So I guess the real trick for things to line up is just to make sure you clip them together (or pin them). So for example, in your pinwheel, you started with 4 squares an sewed the ones next to each other together....there's nothing really to line up there. Then you have to do top and bottom, I would line up the centers first, and triple make sure that those are right, and then I keep pinning from the inside to the outside....My outside might not always match up 100% but what matters the most is the points so I dont think it's a problem =P
   
   I'm also a beginner so message me if you want a quilting buddy!!! =D These are some pinwheels I made like 2 weeks ago! =P
   
   ​
   
   PS: This is your first block ever and you didn't chose the easiest one soooo GO YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

>Other boxes?

Game boxes or really any boxes can be put in and will be structurally sound to "raise the floor" of a section like you did in your build so you don't have to "dig for pieces". You might have to cut off one wall of the box to make it fit, but that's a great way to get a weight bearing "floor" that's easily reachable if you don't need the empty space in the box for storage. It is a lot faster than building structure elements if you can just cut up a small box you got from packaging at the grocery store, and if lining the box, no one will ever see it.


>Nested trays

I've done that. I have innovation in a bigger box, with one of the actual innovation boxes inside as a holder of play mats.

Use this on almost any cut over 1 inch
T-Square

Use this along the T-Square to make super straight, square lines. The reviews say "make sure and put some excess foam board underneath" but I've gotten by with cardboard and a self healing mat: Linear Foamboard Cutter

If you're making boxes that are to be structurally stable on their own, will be passed about, or will need to support an ailing box, don't skip using this. It makes a perfect glue surface and good looking (but not perfect) corner: Rabbit Cutter. This product packaging shows what a rabbit looks like.

This prevents your table from getting hurt. I believe they all use that chemical (phalates maybe?) to be soft and such, so keep it away from pregnant people and children. A self healing mat

This is more useful on paper itself than long cuts on foam board, as it doesn't stay against the T-Square well. But, for short cross cuts, I think it's superior than Xacto knives and utility knives: [Rotary Cutter](https://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-Comfort-Grip-Rotary-Cutter-45mm/dp/B00DD2W1Q8/ref=sr_1_9?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1492008006&sr=1-9&keywords=rotary+cutter](https://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-Comfort-Grip-Rotary-Cutter-45mm/dp/B00DD2W1Q8/ref=sr_1_9?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1492008006&sr=1-9&keywords=rotary+cutter)

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Section 1: Tools

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Note: Just because it is more expensive doesn't mean it is better. You could get by just fine with the "cheaper" options.

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| Tool | Required vs. Optional | Use | Notes | Price & Link |
|:---|:---:|:---|:---|:---:|:---:|
| Tandy Wholesale Membership | O | Allows you to get better pricing at Tandy. | This is definitely optional. Items will cost slightly more without it OR if you have a tax ID you can get the membership with better pricing for free. | $35 / Free|
| Awl Haft | R | The handle which will hold your blade. | This particular haft allows for different blades to be added or removed with ease. | $16 / $35|
| Diamond Awl Blade| R | This is the blade used for piercing the holes in your projects.| This goes in the awl haft.| $4.80 / $28
| Channel Groover | R | Used to measure and gouge channels where your thread will lay. | Some say gouging a channel is optional however I find it to be required. It further protects your thread from damage. | $16 / $80 |
| Overstitch Wheel | R | Marks where you will punch your holes. | This particular overstitch wheel is a few dollars more than the versions that only offer one wheel. | $24 / $225 |
| Edge Beveler | R | Used to bevel and round off the edges of your project prior to burnishing. | Sizes vary. The smaller the number, the smaller the round edge. | $12 / $55 |
| Adhesive Glue | O | Used to hold your pieces of leather together prior to piercing the holes. | Some people prefer binder clips instead of glue. I've found that the clips end up making marks on my projects so I've always stuck with glue. | $6 / $30 |
| Gum Tragacanth | R | Used as a burnishing agent for your edges.| Some people use saddle soap. I prefer gum trag.| $6.40 / $21|
| Harness Needles | R | Used in combination with the thread for your projects. | Avoid the stitching needles. They break very easily.| $5.99 / $7.50 |
| Xacto Blade | R | Used for cutting projects. | You may have one of these at home already. Be ready to have replacement blades handy ($21.95) | $2.49 / $50 |
| Self-Healing Cutting Mat | R | Used for cutting your leather projects.| You may have one of these at home already. If so, you can obviously use that.| $14.73 / $50.80 |
| Cork-backed Ruler| R | Used for cutting straight lines.| I highly recommend the cork-backed version. It will save from accidental cuts/slips.| $4.80 / $14 |
| Burnishing Tool | R | Used in combination with the gum tragacanth to get a good burnish.| A good piece of canvas can be used as well. | $8.99 / $80 + $99|
| Sanding Tool| O | Used to sand down the edges prior to burnishing.| You might have sandpaper at home. Feel free to use that too.| $7.30 / $0 with dremel|
| Steel Square | O | Used for creating nice, even squares/rectangles for projects. | Learn to use this correctly!| $8 / $14|
| Thread Cutters | O | Use these for cutting your thread in the hard to reach places without running the risk of damaging your project. | Scissors work for cutting thread and the xacto blade can work for cutting thread inside your projects -- just be careful! | $3.95 / $39 |
| Maul | O | Used for end punches, rivets, snaps, chisels, or irons. | You really only need one of these if you are planning on doing any of the activities mentioned previously. | $20 / $55 |
| Pricking Iron/Chisel | O | Use these to mark or punch your holes instead of an overstitch wheel and awl. I prefer using the overstitch wheel and awl but others like the irons/chisels. | There is a big difference between irons vs. chisels, diamond vs. lacing. They all produce different results. Definitely ask before purchasing! The ones I linked are very different.| $12 / $259|
| Creaser | O | Used for decorative creases on things like card slots. | Definitely optional and definitely personal preference. | $14.40 / $72 |
| Wax | O | Used for burnishing. Gives the edges a nice seal. | The $10 is my top secret wax I use. I bought a bunch on sale for $5 and it is fantastic. | $4 / $10|

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First I'll list what I bought and then I'll discuss what I have or what I'd have done differently.

Not listed are an xacto blade/utility knife, cork-backed ruler, and steel square. These were purchased at Harbor Freight.

Awl Haft

Diamond Awl Blade

The awl haft and diamond blade (E42) are great. I like the combo I bought. The handle has a chuck instead of some I saw which need the blade pressed in to the chuck.

Channel Groover

The channel groover I bought is nice. The chuck, similar to the awl haft, is very convenient for quick adjustments.

Overstitch Wheel

Doing it again, I probably would have bought some diamond chisels over the overstitch wheel, but so far it's worked alright. I will be buying the chisels eventually.

Edge Beveling Kit

I had no idea what edge beveler to buy with so many sizes and never having touched leather, so I'm really happy with the one I bought. It comes with 5 sizes.

Harness Needles

I bought 3 sizes of harness needles. Probably overkill but they were $3 a pack and I didn't know what size I needed. I've been using the medium ones and they are working well with the thread I got.

Cutting Mat

The cutting mat is nice. It's a bit thicker than the ones I found locally at Michaels.

Lacing Pony

The lacing pony is probably my biggest regret that I was forced to buy. I don't have access to any woodworking tools so I was stuck purchasing one. I should have had a coworker do it for me in his shop at 1/5 of the cost. It comes in two pieces and the holes in mine didn't line up at all. I ended up having to drill a hole for the screw.

Art of Hand Sewing

The book comes highly recommended from everyone. I've flipped through it but I learned my basic technique from youtube videos. As I try to do more I'm sure I'll reference it.

Thread

I bought .035" waxed cord from Maine Thread. I have nothing to compare it to but it seems to work okay.

Leather

And finally the leather. I'm still not sure if I made the right purchase, although buying a shoulder of leather seems to be a popular beginner suggestion. Already I'd like to have more variety, but I think I'm going to a Tandy Leather this weekend so maybe I'll pick up some other random stuff.

Things I didn't buy that I should have:

Contact Cement

Gum Trag

Burnishing Tool

Hammer/Maul

Leather finish


I actually made a decent stitch I was happy with on my second try. I didn't buy these items because I planned on doing lots of practice on scraps but because I feel good about my initial work I'd like to try to make something. Without those few items I'm kinda stuck for the moment.

I believe I have finally decided on my first Gunpla, the HG Age II Magnum and want to make sure the items I have added to my Amazon cart are ideal or not for a beginner/future use for HG and MG kits. The list is as follows:

• Gundam Model Builder's Cutting Mat 12"x9"
  
• Findfly 9Pcs Gundam Model Tool Kit
  
• Gundam Marker Value Set
  
• Mr. Super Clear Flat Spray
  
• Bamboo Skewers
  
• Alligator Clips
  
• ScotchBlue Painter's Tape
  
• Styrofoam Blocks
  
  I know that this sub has a list of tools and tutorials, but because I'm trying to budget, I was thinking no more than $100 would be ideal for me to start with. Since I'm beginning with HG models, I don't think I need a full set of Gundam markers, but if it's needed/required/highly suggested, I might pick them up as well.
  
  So I have read and seen that top coating and panel lining are essential for MG models to make them pop. Are they just as essential for HG model kits? Looking at pictures of the Age II Magnum I'm planning on getting from Amazon, it doesn't seem to have a lot of indents for panel lining. Of course, I could be wrong and be blind as a bat. If I don't do any sort of panel lining, is it still a good idea to add a top coat regardless?
  
  Also, how soon can one get into MG kits? I was originally going to jump straight into either the MG GM Sniper II or the RX-78-2 Ver 3.0 but after doing some research over the past few days, I've decided I'll be doing a few HG's to begin with as I haven't built model kits since I was like 7 or 8 with my dad. I'm thinking after the Age II Magnum, I was thinking about getting either the HG Double O Diver or the HG 00 Shia Qan[T]. Maybe after I complete the 3 HG's I've listed, is it possible to jump to the the GM Sniper II?
  
  TL;DR:
  
  

• Are the items I have listed a good starting point?
  
  
• Is a full set of Gundam Markers a necessity for HG/beginners?
  
  
• Are panel lining and top coatings important for HG model kits?
  
  
• Is it okay to use top coat on an HG model if no panel lining is used?
  
  
• Edit Do people usually top coat the accessories? I can't seem to find any info on that.
  
  
• What color panel lining pens do people normally use based on different parts of Gunpla's?
  
  
• What level of skill should one be at before getting into MG model kits?
  
  

I'm not really "experienced," but I've made a couple. As far as I know, the best way to figure out how much foamcore you'll need is to plan out your insert before you start. Draw out all the pieces (with measurements), then figure out how they'll be laid out on the size of foamcore you can get, then add some extra in case you screw up (which, if you're anything like me, you will... several times).

As for tools - a utility knife with replaceable blades (and a whole lot of replacement blades), a self-healing cutting mat, an adjustable square, a metal ruler, some good glue, and something to help hold everything together (pins and/or ratchet clamps) are all good things to have on hand.

I bought EZ Quilting Template Plastic 12x18 (Thin) from my local Ben Franklin Crafts Store for about $3-4. I bought it mainly to cut out glare and haven't used it much for writing but it does seem to add some friction. You would need to cut it to size & find a way to attach if needed.


Search 073077700517 will hopefully find a suitable local vendor for you.

else...

AMAZON x1 $1.49+$7 shipping : Wrights 670051 Plastic Quilt Template

OR

AMAZON x6 $14.99 Free Shipping Bundle of EZ International Quilting by Wrights Blank Plastic Template Sheets, 12in x 18in (6 Sheets)

 

video demonstrating its use - I just wish he'd used a darker background to highlight the anti-glare reduction better.

Howdy! I just got my printer today so this is fresh in my mind. I watched a lot of videos to understand what I needed and how to get everything set up. I would recommend checking out the 3DPrintFarm YouTube channel. There's a lot of great info in there. Here's a list of everything I picked up along with links to Amazon for the items I got off there. Hope it helps!

• Cutting Mat
  
  
• Microfiber Cloth for cleaning vat
  
  
• Activated Charcoal Mat to combine with printed bracket for better ventilation
  
  
• Link to bracket
  
  
• Paper Filter with Metal Mesh (Paint Strainer)
  
  
• Nitrile Gloves
  
  
• Funnel
  
  
• Metal Scraper
  
  
• Xacto Knife
  
  
• Sprayway Glass Cleaner
  
  
• Glasses Wipes to wipe bottom of vat
  
  
• Pickle Strainer
  
  
• Rubber Squeegees
  
  
• Sandpaper
  
  
• Precision pliers
  
  
• UV lamp for curing
  
  
• Toothbrush to clean prints in alcohol

>brushes

If you use GW brushes, get the Standard, Fine Detail, and Wash brushes. These give you a good starting point for most of the stuff you'll be doing. Otherwise you'll want to find similar brushes in other ranges (Windsor & Newton make good brushes). If you go with third-party brushes I think the sizes you'll want are 1, 0, & 3/0.

>mats,

You can get any sort of sewing mat, where it's basically just a piece of rubber you lay on the table. Joann's Fabrics or any sort of sewing store should have this. Here's one I found on Amazon.

>thinners

The paint you're working with is water based, so water will work as a thinner. If you decide to airbrush things that will change what you need but for now, build a wet palette.

>cutters

Try these

>etc

You'll need some glue at the very least. You might also want some helping hands to hold things while you paint them/glue them together.

>is there a site that tells you what colours you need to paint certain colour styles?

I'm not aware of any one site as a catch-all for painting any scheme, but googling things led me to this site that goes into detail about painting Space Wolves. You could also consider this video from Games Workshop where they go through the steps of painting the model.

As for the paints themselves, I'd recommend working with the Vallejo Game Color paint range. They come pre-thinned (extremely helpful for new painters) and convert to Games Workshop colors pretty easily.

Some more hobby stuff to help you get started:

Zenithal Priming

Airbrushing

Object Source Lighting

​So originally, my thought was buying blank seal and send card stock (LCI Paper has blanks that are ready to print) and running them through a laser printer.

After talking with my friend, M, I made an Excel template (Download, and then zoom out til you can see it all!) to give her that kind of outlines it. I created a blank one you can download here. In my head, 1 pixel = 0.01 inch, so each row is .25" high, each column is 0.25" wide, with each square with a dotted outline is one square inch.

Using my Excel sheet mockup (and a bunch of Pinterest inspiration), M created our proofs for a digital printer she works with. Most printers should be able to at least print it, as the full size is 12.75" long by 6" wide, which would be 1 invite to 1 piece of legal sized cardstock. Ideally, they could cut it down to size, and then perforate and fold it for you, but worst case, that part can be done with a paper cutter, self healing mat, bone folder, and perforating tool (I really like this one, but definitely use a ruler or something to guide you as it's pretty easy to curve off track).


The more folds and perforations the printer does, the more expensive it gets, of course, but the design and printing are the hardest parts!

I would not recommend doing this without an airbrush unless you're a very, very good brush painter, and only then, with very good tape that you can burnish to the surface and make sure there is no bleed through.

The most difficult parts of this is (1) making your tracings correct, and (2) making sure there's no bleed. While some people can do tracings (and by this, I mean cutting it out) by hand, like on a good day, I can do it, it's really better to use a very sharp blade with a ruler (frankly, a Swann Morton scapel will be much better for this than a x-acto, for example, as it is far sharper), and in the case of curved cuts, to use a compass cutter. There are other models (I actually don't like the OLFA one that much), but this one is well known. There was a user here recently who recommended something else, but I can't remember what it was (and wish I knew).

https://www.amazon.com/OLFA-9911-Compass-Circle-Cutter/dp/B000BK7NWC

The most standard ruler to start with is a 6"x24".

It will do almost all your cutting, and will adapt to a surprising amount of work.

This will be my next one (cause it is just that cool). But honestly, you have to be able to read measurements off of this. Omnigrid makes the easiest to read, but take a look at different ones and see what is good for YOU!

Florescent Green Ruler

​

No matter what ruler you get, you can always make them grippier! Try something like these:

Non Slip rings

​

This is my favorite mat. It has lasted over 20 years. It is thicker than other brands. (and cheaper!)

Alvin Mat

I hope you love it as much as I love mine! I have the Diana Frame with the Z shaped legs - you can buy it as a set with a scroll frame on amazon for about $45.

One of the first reviews on there is really detailed and she shows you how you can change the leg set up from a Z to a C shape to accommodate your needs.

heres a link: https://www.amazon.com/GONCHAROFF-EMBROIDERY-ORGANIC-COMPLETE-TAPESTRY/dp/B01CMFSGU6/ref=sr_1_11?crid=3AQZXU38ELK7G&keywords=scroll+frame&qid=1570394420&s=arts-crafts&sprefix=scroll+frame%2Cgarden%2C203&sr=1-11

A few ideas:

• New scissors are always appreciated because they have to be VERY SHARP in order to be useful. There are lots of cute ones on Etsy and Amazon.
  
• A stitching stand can save your hands from cramping and change a stitcher's life by letting them try two-handed! I like this one that sits under your legs while you work.
  
• I love having a cute basket to put my stitching that is near the couch but doesn't mess up the living room decor.

Looks like a cutting mat. I’ve got a great big one that covers my whole desk. Black on one side, and green on the other. They work really well as basic worktable surfaces.

US Art Supply 24" x 36" GREEN/BLACK Professional Self Healing 5-Ply Double Sided Durable Non-Slip PVC Cutting Mat Great for Scrapbooking, Quilting, Sewing and all Arts & Crafts Projects https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L5I8RTW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JHMXCbHCH132P

I'm the same way with perforated pages and game items. XD You might want to look into getting something like this and keep it on you/in your pen case so you can always make more perforated pages when you want. :)

Yeah, definitely. I got the Alvin 24"x18" mat and it's $17.66 and Amazon prime. I saw u/pexon had a huge one when he sent me photos of some cable ideas and thought it was perfect for keyboard stuff.

Fabric scissors are always good gifts

Quilt clips

Chalk pens

Also I think most quilters would love charm packs and jellyrolls

I have and love both of these lap stands...
On Etsy, go to the store HawthornHandmade. They make a great stand. It’s an “Embroidery Hoop Stand”
Also on amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Elbesee-Versatile-Frame-Suitable-Britain/dp/B00P0ZH8BY/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=embroidery+stand&qid=1570846872&sprefix=embroidery+stand&sr=8-8

I was thinking of creating a drum shade but a good portion of the tutorials that I've found online involve an embroidery/quilting hoop. I haven't been able to find a hoop as large as I need it to go around the entire chandelier so I've ruled that option out.

My current idea has been to use template plastic for the structure and then attach fabric to it. I'm not sure about how I'd get it in that really round shape without some sort of hoop. Any suggestions on how to do that or alternatives?

I'm also trying to keep this a reasonable price since I'm only planning on being in this apartment for about another year. Thanks in advance!

Have you used the homemade baste? I was thinking of using that between the extra layer and blocks then again between the regular layers.

The store bought stuff is pricey.

I also received a box of these clip things along with natural batting as a gift. Hopefully they'll help me out:

MumCraft Multipurpose Sewing Clips with Tin Box Package, Assorted Colors, Pack of 100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PNIWT2?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

The glue would probably be overdoing it a bit, though it'd depend on the thickness/rigidity of the sheet.

Laser cutters are pretty special bits of equipment. A cheaper option may be to use a circle cutter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/OLFA-9911-Compass-Circle-Cutter/dp/B000BK7NWC/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=circle+cutter&qid=1569064971&s=gateway&sr=8-5

I have been buying the Dahle Vantage mats and they are outstanding. Thicker and more durable than my legit Olfa mats, no odor at all, ship flat instead of rolled, and crazy cheap. I was worried about the quality given the price, but I have been very impressed by them and now have like 8 different mats in 4 different sizes.

I've used one of these for years and it's great

Dahle Vantage 10673 Self-Healing Cutting Mat, 24"x36", 1/2" Grid, 5 Layers for Max Healing, Perfect for Cropping, Sewing, & Crafts, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027RN0JW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2FfTAbRT9T7JM

You can try one of those plastic cutting mats for sewing. One of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00L5I8RTW/ref=zg_bs_262643011_13?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YMBFT6YKR9K9KT8FAF8H some of them are better quality than others, and they come in different sizes.

I roll out my smaller doughs on a silicone baking mat. This is the exact one I have, and I love it! https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IY1C7D0/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1511365887&sr=1-13&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

Rotary cutter!!! All the way and for everything! I can't believe how much easier it is to cut all the different fabrics I use. Just roll along instead of dragging the x-acto. My mind way blown once I got the rotary. I almost never use my x-acto anymore. And pick up a big mat like 24x36" for $21 off amazon while your at it. It makes cutting larger projects so much more easier. I just upgraded form a small mat and wish I had so so long ago, especially since it was so cheap. Sorry I was late to the party, but I had to give my 2 cents...

I used this table and will end up supporting it on both sides with 9 cube shelves which gives a lot a storage. I have a 36 x 24 cutting mat. I read about someone using the cube shelves which makes the table about 36" high so I decided to try it, I like the height and I'm pretty short at just barely 5'4"

To solve the pricking yourself with pins problem-- try sewing clips! I bought these from Amazon and I think they're great. I find pinning stuff can sometimes distort the fabric, and you can't pin some fabrics because it leaves holes. They don't totally replace pins since you can only work from the edges with these, but they are really nice regardless!

I wanted something I could easily move between rooms in my house, but would let me easily hide from company or cats.

The mat on top is glued down with spray photo glue so it could be removed later if desired (through some difficulty). The entire table is collapsible, I would need un-clamp the lamp and remove the shelved items.

Table - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NPON1Y
Lamp - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CHZLW5M
Mat - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0027ROZ9G

I used this. Took a few tries on scrap foamcore to get the hang of it, but really happy in the end.

OLFA 9911 CMP-1 Compass Circle Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BK7NWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_n3nwDbMEMY3MJ

Really not hard at all with a compass cutter or something similar. I think on my old kit I actually used a legit drawing compas with a razor blade clamped into it or something. Just measure out the diameter/radius, pick your center and go. You can buy rings that snap in to make it look nice and give it strength: https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/BDO6BK?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIz4TO0a6m2QIVUbbACh2vqg0TEAQYASABEgLxqPD_BwE

I use an Olfa Circle Cutter if I want to make perfect circular paint masks. Otherwise, I mostly hand cut my masks for the sake of time.

Olfa Circle Cutter on Amazon

You could just buy your favorite one without perforations and buy something like this: amazon "wheel cutter perforation" and perhaps a metal ruler. With them you can make your own perforated pages.

This is the one I use, I'm pretty sure the minimum is less than an inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BK7NWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xxH5BbZKDXVFK

1. this doesn't belong in this sub. Post to /r/cooking.
   
   
2. I already know where this survey is going, and with all do respect, it's not a good idea. There is already an easy way to make a round piece of parchment. Not to mention, the product you are making already exists.

Good observation. This seems to be a standard work matt for doing electronics stuff, I picked mine up at my local hobby shop. Maybe something like this is what your looking for?

Not stupid. I use the Alvin self-healing mat as a mousepad (and general surface to place stuff that I don't want to destroy the walnut desk). This is the 18x24 version but they make lots of sizes (and the other side is a nice green too): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0025189VE/

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

scroll frame

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

So what I would do is get a piece of magnetic imaging film [1] and survey the desk area for fields. Besides that I would introduce an insulator, for any development board I work on, I have used those green craft boards [2] which are seem to be great insulators. You might also try using a wrist connected grounding strap [3]. If there are any electrical posts built into the table, unplug them, and inspect the insulators and neutral & ground runs.



[1] https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Viewing-Film-Field-Display/dp/B00129CCGS


[2] https://www.amazon.com/Hobby-Craft-Double-Healing-Cutting/dp/B00GEKIM8W


[3] https://www.amazon.com/Anti-Static-Wrist-Strap-Grounding-Adjustable/dp/B002O6U65W

Circle rotary cutter. Easy to use and works well. OLFA Rotary Circle Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CEAMCY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BTUCzbJDR0X1Q

What shape of hole? I typically just cut through it with my knife like any other cut and pop it out like a token, but for circles that probably isn't doable.

I'd try something like this, but I've never used one myself.

US Art Supply 18" x 24" GREEN/BLACK Professional Self Healing 5-Ply Double Sided Durable Non-Slip PVC Cutting Mat Great for Scrapbooking, Quilting, Sewing and all Arts & Crafts Projects https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L5I8RII/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yUD4Bb6S6APCS

or you could save $40

https://www.amazon.com/OLFA-9911-Compass-Circle-Cutter/dp/B000BK7NWC/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1543186319&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=thunderline+circle+cutter

Hey everyone!

I'm as new as it gets. So, I made a shopping list after doing some research on everything that I think I need to start. I'll place the links to all the items in the lines below. Everything is on Amazon because... well why not?

Gundam

Glue

Marker

Tweezers

Knife

Cutters

Mat

More Markers!

*Krylon Matte Finish

Am I missing anything?

Amazon sells a green version of that board. https://www.amazon.com/Hobby-Craft-Double-Healing-Cutting/dp/B00GEKIM8W

What else is green? Plants. What are plants on? Planets.

The next BGS game will have a planet in it!

Edit: Holy Todd! I found more of them. https://www.amazon.com/Healing-Cutting-Scrapbooking-Quilting-Crafts/dp/B01N7NTH88 Do you see what it says in the picture? Paragon! BGS is teaming up with Epic to re-release Paragon.

In case you ARE speaking of a stand, I have used this one and loved it.

If you are speaking of a scroll frame, which can be square and also covered in a grime guard, any of the big box stores or local needlework shops sell them.

Have you considered perforating the pages yourself with something like this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001GLP39A

Looks like a cutting mat. Think this is it!

Those are cutting mat, used to protect the surface of the table from your hobby knife. I bought mine from amazon.

Alternatively, you can use the shape on the mat to cut masking tape for more advanced painting purposes.

I agree with mr.godonut here. Also using a cutting mat has helped me.

Measure and draw would work too! Actually that's what I did for the roundels -- found comparable sized circle shapes around the bench (bottle cap, pencil eraser, etc) and used them to trace circles onto the tape to cut out the roundel stencils. Figured out later that a compass cutter probably would have saved a lot of time and been more precise.

There are 42 reviews on this one and it’s the highest rated on amazon. Do you think this is a good stand?

GONCHAROFF EMBROIDERY FRAME DIANA FOR USE ON TABLE OR COUCH; MADE FROM ORGANIC BEECH, COMPLETE WITH TAPESTRY FRAME; 12X15,5 INCHES (30X40CM) - HANDS-FREE WITH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CMFSGU6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lY.CDbHZX6E5Q

Here is the exact same mat on amazon -> https://www.amazon.com/Hobbico-Builders-Cutting-18x24-Inches/dp/B0014VX88K

Thanks! It's just a cutting mat, this one specifically is this: https://www.amazon.com/Dahle-Vantage-Self-Healing-Cutting-12-Inch/dp/B0027RN0JW?th=1

I'm basically using it to have a fully level surface with no gaps on my desk I made with 2x6" planks

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0027RN0JW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Should I get a poly board and a rubber mat?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L5I8RTW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_5&smid=A23ADOZFIJNPFB

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UVBK0UI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ILHWAM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_11&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0027ROZ9G/

Make a circle with this first?

http://www.amazon.com/Olfa-194B-OLFA-perforation-cutter/dp/B001GLP39A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463807981&sr=8-1&keywords=perforator

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CMFSGU6?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title

It’s currently out of stock but I would grab one when it’s available again!

Most people prime in white or black.

Cut mat

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0025189VE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0025189VE&linkCode=as2&tag=goosgunblo-20

I buy unperforated and perforate them myself.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001GLP39A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1466223469&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=perforator&dpPl=1&dpID=313G3JXy7RL&ref=plSrch

I have a simpler version of this, down to the visible brand markings. I bought it on amazon.com. Here's the link. I thought Etsy was for handmade goods, not wholesale.

Dahle Vantage 10673 Self-Healing... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027RN0JW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

It's not cheap really, but you could use a circle cutter to make it circular. Just practice on something else before trying to do it.

Here's what I bought, comes in larger sizes as well. I soldered on it but its designed for cutting, if you were sloppy enough it might mar the surface.

Don't bother. Unless you are trying, actually setting fire to a wooden countertop with a soldering iron is pretty damn hard. You would have to jam it into a heap of shavings to light a fire with it. If you really want to, you can get a mat like this.

It's Hobbico Builder's Cutting Mat.

Its this self healing cutting mat

Hobbico Builder's Cutting Mat, 18x24 Inches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014VX88K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Os0rDb6G1PHT1

I’m using it as a buffer on an old glass computer table until I get a legit workbench. I’ve used it in the past for painting models and whatnot.

This is the tool I use, although it was only $9 when I bought it a couple years ago. It's a fine product, but idk if I'd spend more than $10 for it again. There are similar products on amazon.

It works well. When utilized with a straight edge, it produces a very professional perforation. I can perforate an entire Midori brand refill in ~4 passes w/ moderate to heavy pressure. It's another step in preping my Midori, but I would not call it tedious or troublesome at all.

The only drawback I've experienced is that it may work too well, in that if I keep a perforated page in the notebook and turn past it, the page folds at the perforation line and not at the natural fold of the refill. I used to worry that this would eventually result in one of these pages unintentionally falling out, but nowadays I leave a small section of the pages' top and bottom unperforated to ensure they stay in. It hasn't really been a problem, and I imagine that if you use a tool with wider spaced cutting sections, it would be different.

Photoshop template, printed on normal paper and cut out with a circle cutter.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/4if60dn5an23tlk/Jar%20Labels.psd?dl=0

Circle cutter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BK7NWC

No ar15 pics? Hows that tekmat, is it basically just typical mousepad material?

I use one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Alvin-Professional-Cutting-Green-Black/dp/B0025189VE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1393819838&sr=8-3&keywords=alvin+cutting+mat

It's this one but it isn't currently available through Amazon 😿


They do have a slightly different one available, it just has less mobility.

Buy a cutting mat mate:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0025189VE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0025189VE&linkCode=as2&tag=goosgunblo-20

It'll stop your mother/girlfriend/wife from violently murdering you in your sleep for ruining a table.