Yeah it's crazy the little details we think are super important when getting into a hobby that seem to be pretty unimportant later on. I had a Lamy Safari as my first pen, but going into it I thought that the snap cap would be a huge issue. I thought it would be super loud or annoying to put on and off or something like that. Turns out it's not even a problem now that I've got the pen lol.

That pentel looks awesome! I really like the simple and classy look of it. That's a big reason I like the Lamy 2000. It looks like a black pen at first, but is much cooler once you really look at it.

Honestly with speakers, cheap stuff is a lot more fun that expensive stuff to me. I've got a pair of Quad Z-3 towers. Yeah, of course they sound good. If they cost that much and don't, there's a big problem. The thing I like about cheaper speakers is how they all have a very fun character. Once you're spending a lot of money, every speaker out there just tries to sound exactly the same. Cheaper speakers do different stuff though. There are some speakers that focus on midrange, so vocals sound really sweet and warm. There are some that focus on the top end, so you get every little detail up top. There are some that focus on dynamics, so you get that "front row of a concert" sorta feel. I like experimenting with all that stuff. It's just fun. And you don't have to spend a ton of money and get those KEFs to really get into it.

Just for fun, I'll build a cheap setup for you, so you'll know what to get in the future if you ever feel inclined haha.

The Micca MB42X are really the "go-to" starter speaker. They're one of the cheapest that sound decent. And, honestly, they sound really good.

SMSL SA50 to power them. That's on sale for the same price as the SA36 right now. They're the same thing, just this has more power. You don't need it, but you might as well have it haha.

Some speaker cable. You need to cut it and strip it to put it into the speakers. There are quite a few tutorials out there on it. It's pretty easy.

Cable to plug it in.

Boom, just like that you've got a sweet stereo speaker setup that will blow any single speaker out of the water, and easily impress anyone! It comes to around $150 with everything.

I'm not trying to talk you into anything, but I'm basically pointing out that you don't have to spend thousands of dollars to get a respectable system.

While we're on this, another thing I like about hobbies is that anyone can be in it at any price range, and that's super cool to me. If someone only has money for a $15 Pilot fountain pen, who cares? That's awesome that they like fountain pens! They don't need to have a $200 fountain pen to be cool. Just anything is sweet. Same with speakers. You don't need a multi thousand dollar system to be "into audio" or whatever you'd call it. If you've got a setup that you like, at whatever price, that's sweet! I'm glad we both enjoy music.

I have some recommendations and suggestions. I know there's a lot of info, but you should know this if you want to get more value for your money. I ran out of space before I could cover everything, so just ask me if you have questions.

Headphones

---

The first thing you should determine is whether you need sound isolation or not.

• Open-back: the earcups have perforations/openings that allow sound to freely pass through. The benefits to this is generally a larger soundstage and better imaging. This can also help if your ears tend to sweat.
  
  
• Closed-back: the earcups have solid shells that isolate sound from passing through to various extent.
  
   
  
  Next, you should figure out which sound signature you prefer.
  
  
• Balanced/flat/neutral: doesn't over- or under-emphasize the bass or treble.
  
• Warm: emphasizes the bass.
  
• Dark: recesses the treble. A headphone can be warm and dark.
  
• Bright: emphasizes the treble.
  
• U-shape: emphasizes the bass and treble a little.
  
• V-shape: emphasizes the bass and treble more than U-shaped.
  
• Mid-forward: the mids are louder than the bass and treble. The mids may be emphasized or the bass and treble may be recessed.
  
  Sub-bass is how deep the bass goes and is where rumble comes from.
  
  Mid-bass is where impact/slam comes from.
  
  Generally, for competitive shooters, as little bass as possible is favorable because bass overpowers or overshadows footsteps and other sound cues.
  
   
  
  Lastly, you should know what sound characteristics constitute positional audio and pertain to immersion.
  
  
• Soundstage: is produced by the headphone, not the game. It's perceived space and environment of sound. It's the size of the sound field around you. A small soundstage makes the environment around you sound confined or boxed in. With a large soundstage, the environment sounds much more spatial, open and natural. You can't comprehend it without experiencing it.
  
  
• Imaging: is inherent to the audio content. It's how accurately the locations of sounds/objects are reproduced.
  
  
• Separation: is how you discern individual sounds from a range of overlapping sounds. This is only important in competitive shooters.
  
   
  
  Personal headphone recommendations:
  
  
• Audio-Technica ATH-AD700X (open-back):
  
  has recessed sub-bass and emphasized treble. Has clean bass and a little harsh treble. Has a huge soundstage, excellent imaging, separation and clarity, and great detail retrieval.
  
  
• Beyerdynamic DT990 (600 ohms) (open-back):
  
  has recessed sub-bass, emphasized mid-bass, and very emphasized treble. Has clean bass and a little splashy or overly sparkly treble. Has a huge soundstage and excellent imaging, separation, clarity and detail retrieval.
  
  
• Philips Fidelio X2 (open-back):
  
  has emphasized sub-bass, mid-bass and treble. Has clean bass and smooth treble. The soundstage is very wide, like the others I've mentioned, but it lacks some depth. It's probably only noticeable if you play competitively or compare it side-by-side with headphones that are deeper. This affects the imaging from front to back. The imaging from left to right is excellent. Separation and clarity are excellent. Detail retrieval is great, but bass overpowers sound cues a lot.
  
  
• Sennheiser HD598 (open-back):
  
  is mid-forward and has recessed sub-bass. Has clean bass, smooth treble, and excellent clarity. I haven't used it much, so my impressions are that it has a large soundstage and good imaging, separation and detail retrieval.
  
  

  
  

  
  I also compare to AKG K52, AKG Q701, Audeze LCD-2 Classic, HiFiMan HE400i (the revision), HiFiMan HE-500, HyperX Cloud, Monoprice Monolith M1060, Philips SHP9500, Sennheiser HD700, Sennheiser HD800, Superlux HD662 EVO, Superlux HD668B, Superlux HD669, Superlux HD681 EVO, Tritton Pro+ and Turtle Beach Ear Force XP Seven.
  
  My evaluations are based on games, not music. I test headphones mostly in BF:BC2, BF3, BF4 and R6S.
  
   
  
  Alternatives:
  
  Open-back
  
  

• AKG K612 Pro
  
• AKG K701
  
• AKG K702
  
• Audio-Technica ATH-AD900x
  
• Beyerdynamic DT880
  
• Sennheiser Game One (headset)
  
• Sennheiser HD558/HD579
  
• Sennheiser HD599
  
  Closed-back
  
  
• AKG K550
  
• Audio Technica ATH-MSR7
  
• Beyerdynamic Custom One Pro Plus
  
• Beyerdynamic DT770
  
• Sennheiser Game Zero (headset)
  
• V-MODA Crossfade M-100
  
   
  
  

  Microphones
  

  
  ---
  
  

  
  

  
  Attachable to headphones
  
  

• Antlion ModMic
  
• Massdrop Minimic
  
• V-MODA BoomPro
  
  Alternatives
  
  
• Audio-Technica AT2020USB
  
• Blue Snowball
  
• Blue Yeti
  
• Neewer Clip on Mini Lapel Microphone
  
• Samson Go
  
• Sony ECMCS3
  
• Zalman ZM-Mic1
  
   
  
  

  Setup
  

  
  ---
  
  

  
  

  
  Antlion ModMic and Massdrop Minimic are compatible with all headphones.
  
  V-MODA BoomPro is compatible with Philips Fidelio X2 and V-MODA Crossfade M-100 of the aforementioned headphones.
  
   
  
  You can connect the headphone and mic to the PS4 by using an audio USB adapter. The one I linked has separate jacks for the headphone and mic, so in order to use it with V-MODA BoomPro, you need a Y-splitter, which is included with the mic. The other 3.5mm mics have an own cable, so there's no need for a Y-splitter.
  
  USB mics, like AT2020USB, Snowball and Yeti, connect directly to the PS4.
  
  If the cables aren't long enough, then just use an aux extension cable or a USB extension cable.
  
   
  
  The PS4 isn't capable of powering all headphones sufficiently, so you may need a sound card or a headphone amplifier and a DAC (digital-to-analog converter). A Sound card has an amp and a DAC built in and sacrifice sound quality for features. You need a DAC because USB and optical are digital signals and PS4 has no analog outputs. There's a common problem with reversed left and right channels when using USB DACs, so I'll only list DACs with optical. I'll only list USB sound cards that officially support PS4.
  
  Power isn't just impedance dependent, it's also sensitivity dependent, which many new to this hobby overlook. If a headphone has a low impedance rating and a high sensitivity rating, it will be very easy to drive. If a headphone has a high impedance rating and a high sensitivity rating, it should be easy to drive. If a headphone has a high impedance rating and a low sensitivity rating, it will be hard to drive. If a headphone has a low impedance rating and a low sensitivity rating, it will be very hard to drive.
  
  There's no consensus on where 'high' impedance starts at. I've read/heard anywhere from 50 ohms to 300 ohms. For sensitivity, there are two different measurements used for this: SPL/mW and SPL/V. 100 dB SPL/mW and 110 SPL/V are considered high.
  
  If you don't want to ever deal with this, then I recommend just getting a very powerful sound card or amp, e.g. Creative Sound BlasterX G5 or Schiit Magni 3.
  
  Audio-Technica ATH-AD700X, Philips Fidelio X2 and Sennheiser HD598 are very loud for me out of the controller or by using an audio USB adapter. The 600-ohm version of Beyerdynamic DT990 is too quiet.
  
  

  
  

  
  Mics generally don't work with amps, so you'll have to connect it to an audio USB adapter, or to the controller with a TRRS Y-splitter. You recognize them by the three black rings on their connector. You need to use the included Y-splitter with V-MODA BoomPro.
  
  With a sound card, you can use both the headphone and mic with it. You need a TRRS Y-splitter if the mic has a separate cable.
  
  To connect a separate amp to a DAC, you need RCA cables.
  
  

  
  

  
  Sound cards:
  
  

• Astro MixAmp Pro TR
  
• Creative Sound BlasterX G1
  
• Creative Sound BlasterX G5
  
• Turtle Beach Elite Pro TAC
  
  

  
  

  
  Amps and DACs:
  
  

• Audioengine D1 (both)
  
• FiiO D3 (DAC)
  
• FX Audio DAC-X6 (both)
  
• Mayflower ARC (both)
  
• Micca OriGen G2 (both)
  
• Schiit Magni 3 (amp)
  
• Schiit Modi 2 Uber (DAC)
  
• SMSL SD793-II (both)
  
• Topping A30 (amp)
  
• D30 (DAC)

If you ask a question, and someone answers it correctly, reply with a thank you, but include this checkmark: ✓ ( or if you cannot enter Unicode, use !check instead )

This will score the user whose comment you replied to a 'point'. Currently the points will unlock special flair that will show in all Daily Simple Questions threads.

This should be working, hopefully

In case you missed it, click here for yesterday's Daily Simple Questions thread.
There may be some questions still unanswered! Below are a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out.

If you don't want to see this comment click the little [-] to the left of my username to collapse this comment.

----

> does newegg tend to have cyber monday deals? building a whole new rig for the second time, and a couple sales on parts actually end on sunday, so I was wondering if I should just order them now.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9w82oo/

----

> Hi everyone.
>
> will any simple/cheap/ rgb strip sync to my mobo MSI x470 gaming , as long as i plug it directly on the rgb dedicated pins on the mobo? and what about usb hubs? would they still sync up just trough the mobo? i have their mystic light app, so far i only used for the rgb on the mobo itself

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9wben8/

----

> I bought a Cooler Master - MasterLiquid Lite 120 66.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
> And I'm looking for an installation video to help me with it. Otherwise I'll have to get my brothers friends to help install it and he want like $50 to put my PC together. All I need help with is the liquid cooler cause I've never put one in before.
>
> Anyone know any good videos to help?


/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9wem45/

----

> Hi. I have the ability to purchase an old Xeon E5420 Dell Desktop, with new SSD and 8GBs of RAM for cheap. Does anyone use it still? How does it hold for browsing the web, mainly more demanding websites like perhaps Cloud9 which I intend to develop on.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9wkvc0/

----

> Got. Mobo. For a old machine. Pull working parts from another machine to test it. Everything is install correctly . but. It not wanting to tirn on. After it was on last night
>


/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9wlax0/

----

> I'm looking for a place where I can buy last year's computers or laptops. I figure that last year's $1000 laptop is now $700 somewhere in the internet. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9wnpld/

----

> I built a PC last year with a 1080 Ti, i7 CPU, monitor is AW3418DW. I haven’t done anything to make it look good though. What’s a good site or YouTube channel that goes into ideas and the process of “pimping out” a PC? I’m talking RGB, color schemes, accessories, etc. I don’t know where to start.
>
> Thank you.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9wz0dl/

----

> Among other drives, I have two 6TB WD Reds for media storage for a Plex server. I use Backblaze for online backups as it has no storage limit, but even with the best consumer internet in my area, obviously a backup can take a while. I would like to have a second local storage drive specifically for a media backup.
>
> So the question - what is the best 12+ TB internal drive now, specifically from the standpoint of reliability? Cost is a near secondary concern, with performance being by far last.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9x16vl/

----

> Where is the most reliable place to buy replacement keyboard keys for a laptop? Some of them seem kind of sketch

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9x5qzv/

----

> Decided to upgrade my graphics card. I decided to go ahead and grab a 1080ti until I saw how inflated the prices have become since I last checked. It looks like a used 1080ti is a similar price to the 2080. Should I just grab a used 1080ti or buy a brand new 2080?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9x5w55/

----

> Is there any way to get audio input/output from my ps4 and my PC at the same time? I have a pair of HyperX Cloud IIs, I bought this splitter thing: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AWBA8U8/
>
> And this cable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2/
>
> I thought this would work and I'm almost certain I have it all set up right but my PC and ps4 won't recognize it. Any help is greatly appreciated.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9x5zb5/

----

> In your guys opinion, whats the coolest case I could get for around $100-200?
>
> Last year, I built a very budget and compact PC with a small case so that I could easily take it to friends houses. (worked better than I thought) Soon im going to be getting a laptop, so I have no need for a small case and was thinking, why not go all out and get a nice, fancy RGB case? I have always wanted to do one of those rainbow-puke builds, think its possible to do that for around $100-200 including RGB fans and light strips and all that?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9x8x6j/

----

> Is the aorus b450 mini itx board good? How is it compared to the asus board.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9xb5fp/

----

> I'm needing a bit of help with my new GPU. Just yesterday I upgraded to a Asus Strix 2080 OC edition card, and now I'm getting a D3D9 error on a hat in time. I've tried everything I've seen from forums, and nothing works. Any tips to get it running? Everything is up to date, so how do I get it to run?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9xbm5i/

----

>
> https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/WqZRyX Looking at building this in the next few weeks, for my little cousin. Slowly buying everything as they go on sale. Since it's a windowed case, was thinking of putting some RGB parts in it - what are some cheap ways of doing that? Fans? Will those be compatible with my case/motherboard?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9xdcg6/

----

> lets say i wanted to start a youtube tech channel and a twitch channel. the requirements are, for twitch it just needs to have a stand and preferably have hardware that can minimize outside sound. for youtube, it needs to have the ability to record how loud pc components (and keyboard) are when being stress tested. i was thinking the yeti mic, but maybe there might be a better mic, idk.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9xgx6f/

----

> So i got a weird kind of thing
>
> So my Logitech G403 mouse that replaced my Razer Deathadder (because of the infamous DoubleClick bug that appeared a month after i bought it (dont buy razer mice!)) the mousewheel on my G403 started to freak out after a couple of weeks of use. Randomly scrolling up or down.
>
> Thing is i use Linux, in my workplace they also use Linux so it took me a few weeks until i could do a firmware upgrade to fix the bug (firmware update is windows/mac only) but that didnt fix the bug. The Mousewheel kept being random. Until a couple of days ago when i noticed that it is less random then usual...and it only got better and the bug is all but gone now.
>
> I dont understand this.
>
> Why did the Firmware update needed time to gestate? What is going on?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9xvbea/

----

> Hi there.
>
> I need a new keyboard and as I'm waiting for black friday week promotion, I can't choose between Logitech G513 and the new Razer BlackWidow Elite.
>
> ​
>
> What's your point of view ?
>
> ​
>
> Edit : One more : A friend is playing on a 21:9 34" monitor (3440*1440). I'm thinking of upgrading to it and then see the 38" (3840*1600) that exists. Is it enjoyable ? I certainly need a high end GPU to handle all of those pixels. Will my i5 4690 (4 core@3.5GHtz) be bottlenecked for those two screen size ?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9y73tw/

----

> Hey guys I just bought a new pc on parts and I think I messed up. I bought a segotep sg-k8 case (with bottom mounted psu) and a psu (seasonic M12II-520) that is supposed to be top mounted.... I can still mount the psu in the case but I have to flip it upside down. Is that a problem? Thank you very much...

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9y809h/

----

User | Points
-----|-------
A_Neaunimes | 459
badillin | 432
Luminaria19 | 389
zakabog | 319
thatgermanperson | 314
Sayakai | 306
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095179005 | 210
motionglitch | 207
Excal2 | 161


----

I am a bot - This action was done automatically. Please direct any questions or concerns ( or bug reports ) to \/u\/eegras - About /u/PCMRBot

Hey all!

This is probably old news for many of you but for those thinking of setting up GroovyMAME with CRT_EmuDriver, do it; you won't be disappointed. It is a little bit of mucking around but the fruits of your labour are well worth it.

Some helpful links that I've collected along the way:

GroovyMAME -- Get the latest GroovyMAME from here. This forum is also pretty active so if you get stuck, you may find someone else in a similar spot as you. A great resource!

CRT_EmuDriver -- Get the latest CRT_EmuDriver versions here. Also has guides for setting up based on your selected hardware / software setup.

Wavebeam Guide -- Excellent and comprehensive guide from Wavebeam detailing the entire setup (including software and hardware requirements). Given that it is over a year old, use it as a reference to give you an idea of what is involved. The hardware aspects are pretty much the same now, but some of the pieces relating to software you will want to seek more up-to-date info.


Buttersoft Windows + CRT / PVM Guide -- buttersoft's supremely thorough thread on hooking your PC up to your CRT / PVM. Lots of great info here.

GroovyMAME Setup Thread -- Recap's thread on setting up GroovyMAME. The guides and posts on the Eiusdemmodi forum are descriptive and thorough. In particular, you should read this post as it has useful information pertaining to audio latency (search for 'PortAudio') and I foolishly missed it the first time and wasted a lot of unnecessary time with ASIO4ALL.

As for my setup, before I begin, I will point out that it is not ideal for someone planning to avoid Windows and boot directly into a MAME frontend. For that, you should really consider a discrete card that be flashed with Calamity's ATOM-15 -- more info here. I went the way I did because I wanted to be able to keep my computer relatively versatile given that I already have a dedicated cabinet.
With that out of the way...I spent probably more than I needed to getting this up and running. I couldn't find a whole lot of info about people who have set this up on relatively "new" hardware. Most people tend to favour older OS's and discrete cards, whereas I was more interested in Windows 10 and an AMD APU based system after reading this post outlining the hardware behind the recent SkyCurser arcade game. Enough waffling on:

• Case: IN WIN BM643BK18PNU3
  
• CPU / GPU: AMD A8-7600 Kaveri
  
• Mobo: ASRock A88M-ITX/ac R2.0
  
• RAM: Ballistix Elite 4GB Single DDR3 2133 (probably should get another for dual channel)
  
  It is all hooked up to my Olympus OEV-203 via a VGA to RGBHV cable, with the H/V sync on a BNC Y adaptor (male to dual female). I am just running the audio through the mono speaker on the PVM at the moment using a 3.5mm to RCA cable with a RCA Y splitter.
  
  Hope this helps some of you. Good luck!

Don't apologize! I used to do some sound work on the side in a past life, so this is fun :) I just hope you post a link to one of your shows once all this is done...

Mixers, like any analog equipment, have good models and bad models. Good models will sound great and bad models will sound not so great due to poor quality components and insufficient shielding. Some cheap models are decent, some just suck.

I picked those three because they're all in the Behringer Xenyx line (which you are already familiar with), because they have USB I/O, and because they are cost effective (you don't want to spend a lot when you're just starting out). Behringer is known for making low cost stuff that performs decently if not amazingly well. Certainly you can do better, but it's useful and cheap and not in the realm of 'garbage'.

If you want something a little better, try a Mackie 802VLZ4. Mackie is a better brand, good sound quality, good build quality too, which comes with a matching price tag of $200 for the 802. That would fit your needs nicely- 3x stereo channels, 2 mono channels, and an aux send. Not much room to grow (only one extra mono input) and no sliders, but it'll work well for a long time.
There's also the Mackie 1202VLZ4, for $270 you get 4x stereo channels, 4x mono channels, 2x aux sends. Still no sliders.

Neither of those are USB boards, which means you need another way to get audio into the computer. If your PC's sound card has a blue line-in jack you could use another dual mono 1/4" phono to stereo 3.5mm cable to send the board's output into the computer that way. Otherwise you could use a USB sound interface, most of the ones you'll find on reputable websites are decent, try a Behringer UCA222 for $30. You'll need a dual 1/4" phono to RCA cable to hook that up to the UCA222. If you want to improve audio quality, this is a decent place to do it; most computer onboard sound cards are pretty crappy so any decent USB interface (including the UCA222) or a dedicated quality PCI sound card will be better.

------

If it were me- and keep in mind this reflects my mindset- I wouldn't worry about the tech stuff much now, because attracting an audience and keeping them is harder than making sound work. Going from decent sound to great sound won't do a huge amount for the success of my channel, especially when starting out.
IMHO, the biggest challenge to starting a stream channel is building the audience. I can control the sound, and I can throw money at quality hardware, but I can't control whether people will watch my show or not. And I don't know if the channel is going to be in any way successful, or if I'm going to do 20 shows and get 3 viewers and then decide to spend my time on something else.

So if it were me, I'd get that cheap 4-way 3.5mm switcher and for the moment make it work with the Q802USB mixer I already have. Or I'd do an ugly ghettosplice, just use Y-splitters to plug the Xbox and PS4 into the same stereo channel, and only turn on one at a time.

This wouldn't sound as good as a Mackie setup, but it would work and it'd be cheap.

Then I'd start streaming and focus on building an audience and getting subscribers and whatnot.

Then once I'd been streaming for a while, I'd have a better idea of what kind of show I'm putting on and thus what kind of capability I want to have.

For example, I might want some kind of simple background music that I can easily fade in and out without pausing the game. I might have guests that call in via Skype or a phone, and want to adjust their volume separately. I might have some kind of dual mashup stream where I host myself and my buddy playing on the same team. Depending on what people like watching me play, I might end up only streaming one or two games (thus not needing both consoles). etc etc. Or the whole thing might totally flop and I might get bored of it, in which case I don't want to have wasted $500 on mixers and adapters and cables that I'll never use again.

You'll only know the answer to these questions after you've been at it a while. So my suggestion is get from where you are now (mucking about with audio cables) to a published stream as efficiently and cheaply as you can, especially since you already have a mixer, and then improve your setup as your channel grows.

Now you already have the most important component- a decent microphone. All the mixers in the world won't help if you are feeding them shitty audio from a shitty mic. The one thing I would tell any streamer is spend $40 on a decent microphone (that's NOT part of a headset), but you're already there. The rest is details.

I personally recommend the Klipsch ProMedia as the best sub-$200 option. Sound is really solid and it's definitely got the bass. Plugging your computer in is straightforward and I believe the newest version has bluetooth as well. Best Buy used to have it as a demo with their computer speakers, not sure if they do anymore.

A better option might be studio monitors like the JBL LSR305/LSR30X which are also an insane deal. You'd need to get a bluetooth adapter and you'd need to worry about inputs (many studio monitors take 1/4" or XLR, which would require janky adapters (probably won't sound great out of a headphhone out without something like this) or a dac/audio interface like this or this. The JBL approach will get you a better sound (more accurate to the music, more balanced sound, magical amazing beautiful and perfect imaging) but will probably be a bit above what you'd like to spend. Most of that stuff can also be bought used if you are okay with that.

I would try and stretch or save up a bit for the monitors. They're a pretty solid step up from most all "computer speakers," and the JBLs in particular are one of the best bang-for-buck deals in audio that I've seen.

Best of luck, and feel free to shoot me a PM with more questions or what you decide to do!

Thanks. I don't have a link but I'll try to explain step by step.

1. In the past I had various audio inputs fed to my receiver and video inputs fed to my TV. The problem was keeping things in sync when you changed inputs. I knew that the DVD player was Input 1 on the TV and Aux 2 on the receiver but no one else in the family could ever remember the combinations.
   
   
2. With HDMI carrying both audio and video the obvious answer was to feed it all to the TV and then take one digital audio output from there to the receiver. This worked great. When you switch sources on the TV you don't need to switch anything on the receiver. Everybody was happy.
   
   
3. But now I wanted to listen to Pandora (or iTunes, or the hockey game, ...) outside on my deck and driveway. My receiver can handle my 5.1 surround in the family room but does not have another set of speaker outputs. Even if it did how could I control the volumes separately? I found that my receiver does have an analog audio output that can be fed to a recording device BUT this output does not work when the input to the receiver is digital. This is true for most receivers on the market unless you spend $$$$ to get a high-end one with multiple zone capability.
   
   
4. I eventually realized I would have to get the signal for the outdoor speakers AHEAD of my receiver. My TV, like most on the market today, does not have multiple sets of audio outputs. The only choice for me was to take the digital fiber optic one I was already sending to the receiver and split it. I read a lot of reviews and decided to go for a powered splitter that actually recreates the signal. Passive ones that split the light signal using a mirror/prism are cheaper but can be unreliable. I bought this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B1UWSR6/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it works perfectly.
   
   
5. So now I have an SPDIF out from that device into my receiver and another one to use for my outdoor audio. These amps however do not have an SPDIF input as they do not contain a digital-to-analog converter. So I had to convert from SPDIF to RCA analog. I went with this converter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008EPW7O0/ref=oh_details_o04_s01_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
6. But now I have a single set of RCA ouputs and two amps that need inputs. RCA is easy to split so I bought these cheap cables to do it: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I94FAE/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
7. From there the RCA is fed into two of the amps that OP shows above. From there it goes into 100' of high grade speaker cable: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10239&cs_id=1023902&p_id=2820&seq=1&format=2 and then into these Polk speakers (one set for the deck and another for the driveway): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00378KMEG/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   So the setup is: TV inputs --> TV --> digital splitter --> D to A converter --> RCA splitter cables --> these two amps --> Polk speakers. It sounds surprisingly good with strong bass and crisp highs. I can control all three volumes independently (family room receiver and each of these amps). I just used it for a big party we had Saturday night (80+ people). I had a playlist in iTunes on my computer served up by my Plex server. This was then picked up by my Roku 3 attached to the TV. It worked flawlessly.

(Reposting from a different thread I replied to previously, plus some modifications with better details)



I have done this on a 2017, which should use a similar system and can be swapped out in the same fashion. There are a few caveats that may sway your decision however.



The radio I bought for my Corolla is the Kenwood DMX-905S, but you can get any radio that has the iDatalink Serial port on the back (should be mentioned specifically in the description on whatever site you buy it from) which brings me to the next point...



I used the iDatalink Maestro RR with the TO2 harness that allowed a very straight-forward installation with no modification to the factory wiring. This module allows your radio to interface with all the OEM functionality that is normally configured with the radio and prevents having to deal with a metric ton of ridiculous wiring. This is not where this story ends, however.



The Maestro and harness kits do not come with the adapters required for factory USB, Aux (sort of), AM/FM radio, GPS, Satellite Radio, or any integration for the factory microphone. This last part is what has pained me the most in this whole thing, as I've yet to install the aftermarket microphone or make the attempts necessary to try to get the factory one working. I've got lots of wiring diagrams, but no free time. There have supposedly been some successful attempts online, but naturally only by someone who was planning to sell adapters for it and essentially abandoned the forum and project entirely without ever releasing ANY details.



I used this Axxess adapter for the factory USB. Fits perfectly, just plug into the radio and the factory connector. Wrap the radio USB end with TESA tape so it doesn't disconnect.



The antenna adapters for GPS and Satellite Radio are available from iDatalink as the ACC-SAT-TO2 kit. They should connect directly to the factory harnesses and then to the new radio, but if they don't work for you this is not required to be a specific iDatalink replacement so you may be able to find another brand that works. I own this kit, but have yet to install it in my Corolla so I can't officially vouch for it.



I ordered the Metra 40-LX11 for the AM/FM radio antenna (I have yet to actually install it so I can't vouch for it 100% but it should be fine). I did do some research after someone else mentioned this in the previous thread and despite the strange image on the Amazon page it does indeed have the radio connector and the blue power wire which is required for it to function.



For auxiliary input, you do get the aux connection as RCAs, but you may need to invest in a female RCA to male 3.5mm adapter depending on what your radio expects for the aux connection. Most likely, you will need the adapter. Don't bother with the one that has red white AND yellow because it's only wired for red and white (audio). Something like this should work fine.



Last but not least, you'll need a dash kit. I'm not certain which one you'll need on the 2015, but don't buy the Metra ones. Hot. Garbage. Just go to https://www.crutchfield.com/ and put in your model/year/etc.



As some general advice, I recommend getting some TESA tape and wrapping all your connections. Please for the love of Cthulhu do not wrap your wires in electrical tape if you value your sanity. TESA tape is fabric tape and is absolutely delightful to use, plus it looks good. Also, invest in plastic panel pry tools so you don't ruin your dash trying to get the radio out. You will likely need a 10mm socket to remove the factory radio.



I hope this is probably more than enough information to get you on the right track. Feel free to PM me if you have questions!



(edited because mobile formatting)

I love the look of the old rack systems. They may not have top of the line components but they still sound pretty good.

It looks like your setup was well taken care of! If I were you I would do the following:

• Before you play any records examine the stylus on the turntable tonearm and replace it if it looks worn or corroded. It looks like this is the stylus you need but you'll need to compare what's actually on your turntable before ordering
  
• Before you play any cassettes clean and demagnetize the cassette deck heads. A simple cotton swab and some rubbing alcohol on the head will clean it, and an inexpensive tape head demagnetizer is all you need. Here's a video guide on demagnetizing
  
• Get a Chromecast Audio and a 3.5mm to RCA cable so you can enjoy your tunes without the compression problems of Bluetooth.
  
• Get rid of the books and binders and other junk and fill up your shelves with records, cassettes, and CDs!

Just FYI, you can hook this up to your computer or smartphone using the aux input and a cable like this:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=3.5mm+to+rca&qid=1564516794&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Note, ultimate fidelity would be better with a dedicated DAC to connect computer/phone, but even using the adapter cable it will probably sound better than anything you've heard.

Just so you know you're not limited to playing vinyl records or something, which are fun but require a lot more commitment.

One more thing - this receiver is only going to sound as good as the speakers you connect. That doesn't mean expensive - there are plenty of vintage speakers in the $100-$150 range that will blow you away. Look for brands like EPI, Boston Acoustics, ADS, Dynaco, KLH, Advent, or just search "vintage speakers" on your local Facebook marketplace or Craigslist. This was a luxury item when new, and will offer a refined, sweet sound quality that is difficult to find in new equipment.

If you're space limited, I would recommend some smaller, newer NHT speakers or just using it as a headphone amp, which many people do, see head-fi.org vintage receiver thread.

If you decide to keep it, enjoy the beginning of your journey into high quality audio and more satisfying music listening. A MAC1700 is a rare and lucky find, my foray into vintage audio started similarly with finding my dad's old Sansui G-9000 in our attic.

I assume this is all hypothetical and you haven't bought anything yet?

Assuming you haven't bought anything...

• Save a few bucks on headphones and get Audio-Technica ATH-M40x as these "lessor" phones are actually technically better than the heavily slanted "baby's first decent headphone" M50x. The AKG K181 DJ UE is worth looking at as well.
  
  
• Since you're streaming from a computer you're best mixing on the computer in software and using an audio interface. A good starter interface is the Behringer U-Phoria UMC202HD. Use said interface with Voicemeeter Banana. Said audio interface will become your PC's soundcard and some adapters may be needed for your existing speakers (like this or this). Make sure to set everything to 24-bit 48khz (Windows' Recording/Playback in Sound control panel, Voicemeeter's internal rate, and including OBS Studio itself).
  
  
• For mics you really need to stick to cardioid pattern dynamics. A good mic in this class for not much money is the SE V3.
  
  
• You'll also need a headphone distribution amp like the Behringer Microamp HA400.
  
  
• For cables Hosa REAN are quality XLR cables for not much money. Two 10'/3m+ XLR3F to XLR3M is what you'll want. A short ~18"/0.5m 1/4" male-male TRS-TRS would be for the interface to headphone amp.
  
  
• The Neewer NB-39 microphone arm is OK and way better than the $15 comically short garbage you see on Amazon
  
  If you're thinking of multiple people around the same desk, you may think of going for headsets. The Audio-Technica BPHS1 is way better than any "1337 gamer" headset out there and is basically a ATH-M40x with a dynamic mic attached. Earpads meant for the M40x/M50x fit too. Pads from Shure are good here, Brainwavz not so much.
  

This will definitely be the cheaper option but there are still some newer stereo receivers with phono inputs. I have an Onkyo TX 8020 and it has a phono input. Looks like all/most of the Onkyo stereo receivers include a phono input.

But yeah OP, check your local Craiglist/Kijiji/whatever, people sell their older receivers for cheap all the time. That will definitely be the cheaper option if you are okay with going used. Receivers tend to age pretty well, just check to make sure it works.

EDIT: pretty much all receivers will have a headphone out on the front. It's often a 6.3 mm, but you can pick up a 3.5 to 6.3 adapter for pretty cheap.

As for aux in, a lot of stereo receivers will only have RCA inputs, but you can also pick up a 3.5 aux to RCA cable for cheap too. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8JW0

> Looking for the best sound $400 can buy, for music.

If you want the best sound money can buy, you're not looking for 2.1. I can't stress this enough - even if you DIY it, getting a good sub is easily going to cost $400 alone. And even if you do stretch your budget, to accomodate for a sub, a 2.0 system will sound more coherent, and be far easier to live with. Plus, with good speakers, you are not really going to miss a sub.

In your price bracket, and with active speakers as a requirement, you are effectively looking at studio monitors.

I am curious about your intended use - is it primarily when seated in front of a computer?

First Emotiva AirMotiv 4 - Review here - you will need stands for these, bringing the total up to about $400 - stands can either be DIY-ed from a bit of PVC pipe and a few pieces of wood in about an afternoon for about $40, or bought from anything between $50-80.

What kind of stands you will need, and their height will vary with the answer to the question above about intended use. If you primarily intend to use it in front of a computer, then a pair of stands placed on the desk (10-12 in), or taller floor stands (40-45 in) is the correct height. If you plan on enjoying music from the couch, then floor stands of 28-32 inches are the right option. Assuming what you need is for near-field office desk use, here is a decent pair of stands (And are the same stands as in my next item

KRK Rokit RP6 - bundle with stands. If you hang around any music or producer forum, many authors will have these as their go-to budget recommendation, and they are well-liked across the board.

If you don't already have it, both proposals need a 2xRCA to 2x1/4 TS cable, like this

For reference, I use neither of my two recommendations as my near-field budget monitors - the M-Audio BX5 D2 are what I use, and if you would rather get away with less than $400, they are pretty terrific. Also, differing prices in Norway, and in the case of the Emotivas, prohibitive shipping costs, makes the value propositions somewhat different - a kit with the KRK's and floor stands are $650 here, while I got my BX-5's for $300. With this being my secondary system, I'm personally not willing to spend much more than I did, until I feel I can splurge and get myself a pair of Genelec 8040A.

Final note: Yes, these are all classified as "studio monitors", and there is an ages-old misconception that studio monitors aren't good for casual listening. As noted, that is a misconception - studio monitors work exceptionally well, even for casual listening.

The PS4 only supports digital connectivity (old school analog A/V plugs have finally bitten the dust). So for video, it sounds like you're good -- HDMI will work great, as you mentioned your monitor supports it (alternatively an HDMI to DVI setup would also work for a monitor).

But for audio, that's another story... The PS4 uses digital / optical audio cables (also known as a TOSLINK connection). You need a decent speaker system for this type of connection. You mentioned that your monitor doesn't even have speakers (does it have an audio out port though? if so, you may be in luck and can just plug a pair of cheap computer speakers or headphones in). Otherwise, you pretty much only have three options:

• Option 1: Buy a [digital-to-analog converter](
  http://amzn.com/B004C4WPXA), along with a digital / optical (TOSLINK) audio cable and an [RGB-to-headphone style adapter](
  http://amzn.com/B000I23TTE). From there, you can get a cheap set of computer speakers (even something simple like these would work). Attach the cables together and plug in the speakers and boom -- you'll have sound. (Note: if the PS4 is anything like the PS3, you'll need to enable "multi channel output" under its sound settings.)
  
  
• Option 2: Buy a set of speakers that support digital / optical (TOSLINK) connections. We're not talking cheap computer speakers like before; these will likely be a pretty decent sound system to support digital / optical (TOSLINK) connections. ([This is the cheapest sound system](
  http://amzn.com/B002V3R2SM) I could find on Amazon that supports it -- it's a surround sound / DVD Player combo, in case you're interested.) You'll also need to buy a digital / optical (TOSLINK) audio cable, of course, which I linked to in the above example.
  
  
• Option 3: Or, your final option... just buy a TV. It'll be bigger than a computer monitor, it'll have the built in speakers, and it'll look nicer. TVs have come down in price significantly the last few years, so maybe you can pick one up for cheap on Black Friday or something.

Hola! I set all this up last year so it’s a bit rusty!

This is a shopping list for an Xbox One mixer setup similar to mine and you may need some help filling in a few gaps and the wiring!

So the idea is to build a setup to be able to use an awesome mic to talk to the stream as well as party chat ‘at the same time’ (which I prefer over using a headset) but to also be able to hear game/chat/PC audio though a single pair of headphones and control their volume levels in one place with ease.

I don't need sound going out to my PC as the Cap card is getting that from the Console via HDMI.
Streaming Xbox to PC then the WORLD!

Xbox – hdmi into a cap card in the PC Avermedia live gamer hd
http://www.amazon.co.uk/AverMedia-61C9850000AE-Avermedia-Live-Gamer/dp/B007SRYAPO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1447858313&sr=8-2&keywords=live+gamer+hd
This grabs the game audio and that’s that bit done, stream using OBS and boom!

Here's is my shopping list for party chat:

Mixer

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-802-Premium-8-Input-Preamps/dp/B000J5XS3C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415150891&sr=8-1&keywords=behringer+mixer
Headset Buddy (Real name, I didn’t make that up!)

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Headset-Buddy-Adapter-PC35-PH25-Computer/dp/B002D41HKS/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1421341934&sr=1-3&keywords=headset+buddy

Xbox Chat Thing:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Xbox-One-Stereo-Headset-Adapter/dp/B00IAVDOS6

Cable from Buddy to Mixer:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415150937&sr=8-1&keywords=hosa+cables

Cable from Mixer to Buddy!

http://www.amazon.co.uk/HosaTech-CMS-105-3-5mm-Stereo-Interconnect/dp/B000068O35/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1447857349&sr=8-1&keywords=3.5mm+TRS+to+1%2F4+inch

Xbox Mixer(s)

Astro Mixamp (I use)
http://www.amazon.co.uk/ASTRO-Gaming-3AM99-HBU9X-975-ASTROGAMING-MIXAMP/dp/B004L6C6BK/ref=sr_1_4?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1447856882&sr=1-4&keywords=astro+mixamp

Earforce DSS (an option!)

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Force-Channel-Dolby-Surround-Processor-Mac/dp/B003O0KICS/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1421378828&sr=1-1&keywords=dss1

Ground Loop things:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Headphone-Ground-Isolator-Filter-Stereo/dp/B00INV5LB6/ref=pd_sim_sbs_23_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41-9H3Hc3mL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1TTNMJANJDTK26VVSAE7

Although I have used these ones because I didn’t see the ones above!

http://www.amazon.co.uk/AV-Link-201-086-Skytronic-Isolator/dp/B000NVWB9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1447857227&sr=8-1&keywords=Ground+Loop+Isolator

Mic wise any XLR mic is fine!

Here is a link to a image i found that kinda helps piece it all together! http://imgur.com/UYaQQUZ

Here is a quick vid of my setup, happy to help if i can! http://www.twitch.tv/drunkiemunkie/v/26306849

Heres is my latest Xbox One vid with party chat but it picks up the Public Lobby if they speak!
http://www.twitch.tv/drunkiemunkie/v/31799799

dM

Sure!

So I'll assume you guys have the absolute bare bones in equipment and work from there. Since these are voice recordings from the 60s\70s there won't be much fidelity to capture so you should be pretty safe.

I've only done this with a Windows machine but I think there are similar settings on Mac. If not this will at least give you an idea of what to Google.

You'll need to get the audio from the tape deck to the computer. Technically you should use a line input. If you have a desktop computer it might be the blue connector. If you have a laptop you can use one of these things or something similar. If you're a cheapskate like my Dad you can just use the microphone input (if you have a headphone/microphone combo jack you'll need this doo-dad).

Note that the Mic input is "hot" in the sense that it's very sensitive to the noise coming into it and a line level input from a tape deck with clip out all the audio. You'll need to dial the mic sensitivity down. In Windows 10 right click the audio icon>Sounds>Recording>Select your default mic input>Properties>Listen>✔Listen to this device (to monitor)>Levels>Adjust levels. How to adjust levels should be apparent soon.

If you're using a Walkman type player you can connect with a simple auxillary cable (double sided male headphone jack). If you have a big tape deck just hook it into the Mic or Line jack with one of these. Toss a tape in there and let it play. Check to see if you can hear it with the "Listen to this device" checked. Adjust the levels to where it sounds normalish. You'll fine tune it next.

Install Audacity. In the top bar you'll see a mic input drop down, select your line in or mic input. Click the audio meter for the mic next to check your input levels. Advice on this varies but in general keep the green bar bouncing on the low end between the -12 and -6 during normal audio levels on the tape. This gives some wiggle room when people on the tape get antsy. You can adjust that with the OS input levels and fine tune it with the Audacity mic levels.

Restart your tape, hit record, and play it through.

When exporting I like to use FLAC for lossless audio but if you're looking for something more practical just use a high quality setting for MP3. FLAC is built in but you'll have to install the MP3 exporter (which I just linked wiki instructions for). You can also use WAV but its a lot bigger and doesn't support tags. When you export you'll have options to tag the artist data. I like to input as much data as I have about the tape in these fields. It will display in any compatible media player and it keeps things generally more organized.

If you don't want to bother with any of that you could try visiting local music shops and recording studios and I'm sure there's someone there that you could pay to have it done. I've never tried that though.

Hope that sets you down the right path. Preserving old audio like that of our parents is important. I have a box of old "love tapes" my Dad mailed to my Mom when they were dating. I should digitize them... but it's really weird to hear. Maybe I'll send them out.

To add on to this:

Xenyx 802 - $60

This will be good for a stereo application. It is cheap and will sound great. Plus it will give you the needed control for a stereo setup, of using one mic for left and the other for right.

Samson C02 pair - $75-$140

These microphones are relatively cheap, even at their price ceiling.
They use a Cardioid pick up pattern that is seems slightly Super Cardioid. They're sold in pairs, so you will only need one order.

Lyxpro SDPC-2 - $100

These microphones are packed with features at their price point. Plus they sound great, so they're extremely competitive. They come with 3 capsules for both microphones so you can choose between Omni, Cardioid & Super Cardioid. You'll likely want to use Cardioid or Super Cardioid, depending on your use case.

SDPC-2 or C02?

Mainly comes down to this: Price at time of purchase - are they the same? Which is more important to you - Omni & Super Cardioid pick up patterns or a good shock mount? The patterns means purchase the Lyxpro, the shock mount means purchase the Samson.


Are they different prices? Do the features justify the price gap?

Accessories

Stereo Microphone Bar - ~$10

You'll need one of these or something similar.

Scissor Arm - $20

You'll want one if you don't have one yet. Or if it is better suited go for a Boom Stand.

2 XLR Cables - $12

Cheap cables. They aren't OFC so you can look into slightly more expensive options. Maybe even make some yourself! :D

RCA to 3.5mm - $8

YOU NEED THIS. This is how you are going to connect from the mixer to the computer.


--EDIT-- You are looking at roughly $210 for the entire setup. Which isn't all that bad seeing as it will be 2 microphones.

>What are you feeding into the JBL's? Computer, phone, etc.

I'm using this cable to connect them to my PC's stereo output jack: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HGM1D6

>How are the speakers placed? On a shelf, on stands, etc.

At the front edges of my computer desk about 4-5 feet apart and hanging over the front edge an inch or two. The speakers are about level with my ears when sitting on my sofa listening to music, and are pointed slightly inward as per the card that came with the speakers.

>That said, speakers loved by "audiophiles" (especially in this price range and form factor) don't necessarily "wow" - they aim for accuracy and to get out of the way of the music more than anything else.

To clarify what I meant by "wow" - basically I was expecting to be blown out of the water as to the amazing quality of the sound coming out of the speakers. Not necessarily "wow that's some amazing bass", etc. (Even though the LSR305's bass is very impressive to my ears.) It's not that the speakers don't sound good, it's just I was expecting to hear the best quality sound I've ever heard in my life by far, and perfection, or close to it.

It's hard for me to put into words how I feel about the sound that the LSR305's produce and what I'm not sure whether I like about it or not. I hear the term "warmth" being thrown around a lot in general, and I'm wondering if that's what describes what I might feel the LSR305's possibly lack. Almost slightly digital and cold? I don't know. I also noticed that it's harder to hear vocals on some songs vs. when listening on headphones or my OEM car speakers, like they're turned down in the mix a bit. I noticed the bass level drops off with minor listening distance changes too but that's probably got nothing to do with these speakers and more to do with me never having speakers that produced decent bass before, meaning less level change to notice...

>In contrast, the Pioneer BS22s (while still very accurate for their price) are designed for slightly more of a recreational listening experience - a slight hump in the bass, with rolled off treble. A lot of people find that more enjoyable. There's a tradeoff, of course. It's like wearing tinted glasses. Things might look "better" but they'll definitely be less accurate.

Thanks. Maybe I would enjoy them better then. Before I do anything with the LSR305's (I've still got a month to return them), maybe I'll buy some BS22's and a cheap used receiver (hopefully most older receivers produce decent audio quality) and do a comparison, I guess that's the only way to really find out.

Everyone here is making this so unnecessarily complicated. I just picked up DJing last year myself and it's not hard to start at all. I did quite a bit of research on what DJ controller would be the best for someone who is just starting, but also wants to have something more than a simple mixer.

1. Build a music library and download Serato
   
   
2. Import your music library and organize it to your liking.
   
   
3. I bought a Pioneer DDJ SB2 and it's awesome. You can do really basic stuff but at the same time you have the ability to do some higher level mixing as well.
   
   
4. While you wait for your controller to arrive, watch this https://www.youtube.com/playlist?annotation_id=annotation_2381793899&feature=iv&list=PLk1VCXHnvPLDLbKTvHacpo6tQDzp4OS38&src_vid=W1OCHTWqc_w. It's a full on tutorial on how to use your controller along with Serato.
   
   Good luck and have fun! It's a blast to get into
   
   I FORGOT you obviously need a laptop and some speakers. Any speakers will do, just make sure it's RCA output. Here is a cheap converter if you currently have a 3.5mm output.

• I started out with just trying to get it going on my laptop with kjams & a microphone.
  
• But that didn't sound good and look good, so I hooked up my laptop to my tv through a receiver
  
• But using my mic through the laptop mic hole, caused a delay between the audio of the song and the mic
  
• This is why you need a mixer. You need the sound of the laptop and the sound of the mic to arrive at the same time. I got this one. Mic goes in channel one, laptop goes in channel 3 or 4 (get the right cable)
  
• That mixer's output goes into my receiver now. My receiver allows to get the audio from a different input than the video. This was essential in my setup. I have a basic yamaha 4 hdmi receiver. I turn it to hdmi1, but get the sound from one of the audio inputs, where the mixer goes into (get the right cable)
  
• sweet, now I have music and mic arriving in my receiver, and it's going to the speakers and the tv is displaying my laptop
  
• now people are tripping over the mic cable and they want a second mic
  
• get yourself some wireless mics. the ones i bought are no longer for sale but they are "dual channel" and "uhf" or something
  
• now you need some songs though I have to say, just opening youtube and searching a song title + ' karaoke' works pretty darn well as well
  
• and some disco lights!
  
• my friends like it and say it's the best home setup they know
  
  
  Btw, nice effort on the è but you want the other one: fiancé
  It's easy to remember: é the stripe goes on and so does the sound. è the stripe stops and the sound is short
  
  

I have a dual PC stream setup and I currently use a mixer to receive both audio sources into my headphones.

There are probably cheaper options than what I have, but it is fairly cheap in comparison to what some get and I think it does a fantastic job.

http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Xenyx-Q502USB-Audio-Mixer/dp/B008O516JW Runs $60 dollars on Amazon, but I picked one up at my local guitar center for 40 a little while back.

With this, you will also need to get different cable to match the input for the mixer. I currently have two of these and they work perfect. Only $4 dollars as well so not too much more onto your investment.

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=pd_sim_267_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=41xj746I2QL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=12PC9MK9VJ0BBG6XEFQ9


The other option you can do is plug a 3.5 to 3.5 aux cable from your computer linein to your TV headphone jack if there is one present. This will allow the sound to play using your computer sound card and can be activated for listening in the audio control section. A fair warning though, the computer can create a hum noise that will transmit to your stream. If you don't hear the hum, you should be good to go, but I figured I should warn you. I also don't know how to fix the hum but there is probably something online to resolve the issue if needed.

Anyways! I hope this helped!

Hello. I hope this is the appropriate place to post - a bit of an audio noob, so i'm hoping someone(s) will be kind enough to point me in the right direction.

I recently got a pair of JBL LSR305s, however, when plugged into my PC (i use this cable) i hear pretty noticable static and popping (mostly at rest, a little faint when playing something at lower volumes.) I have this motherboard which apparently has a built-in amp on it's onboard DAC, which made me wonder if that's what was causing the noise. More than likely however, I think it is signal noise, because i tried my 305s with the same cable at a friends house, both with his PC which had a built-in amp, as well as into his USB DAC/Amp combo. Both times the noise went virtually away on the LSR05s.


Because of this, i'm guessing i need a DAC or audio interface. Could you all be so kind as to direct me on a few points:

1. Will i actually need a DAC or interface?
   
2. I was looking at the Modi 2 Uber as well as a Scarlette, maybe like the 2i4? Would one of these be better than another? I kinda gathered that maybe the Scarlett wasn't actually a DAC, but an interface, although either might eliminate noise? I also have a Sennheiser HD598 and a MIDI keyboard (though i can plug that straight in USB) if that makes a difference on which one would be more ideal. Just trying to figure out which would be best for my needs, seeing as the LSR305s are already amplified.
   
3. If i do get a DAC/Interface, which cable would be best for the LSR305s?
   
   
   Thank you so much to anyone who can point me in the right direction.

To build a system using the minimum recommendations from this sub, let's start with this diagram: http://i.imgur.com/Z8FMJ.png
DAC is optional, so is a subwoofer but I recommend one.

DAC: Behringer UCA202 $29.99 Link: http://amzn.com/B000KW2YEI

Amplifier: SMSL SA-50 $68.99 Link: http://amzn.com/B00F0H8TOC

Subwoofer: Dayton Audio SUB-800 $99.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B0063NU30K

Bookshelf Speakers: Micca MB42X $89.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B00E7H8GG2

Wire: 16-gauge Speaker Wire $8.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B006LW0WDQ

With DAC, this cable: Stereo Male to 2 RCA Male $5 Link: http://amzn.com/B00I0HPK6O

Without DAC, this cable: Monoprice 105597 3-Feet Premium Stereo Male to 2RCA Male $5 Link: http://amzn.com/B0094A1F3S

This is a great starter system, I would have loved to had something like this starting out.
All of these pieces can be upgraded, do your research. Look for sales etc. Good luck and have fun.

>If your TV has component as well as RCA, you could buy one of these cables that you can plug into both the component and composite inputs (If both these inputs do not share a sound input, you'll need A 2-pack of these splitters to make it work)
>

I have a component cable (one which has red, green and blue YPbPr connectors and the yellow analog video in too) . My new tv doesn't have a component (or composite or scart) in though, so i need an hdmi converter.

Maybe I shouldn't have made a tldr that leaves this out, because i said so above ;)

>Then, depending on if you're playing a PS1 or PS2 game, you can just change the input on your TV accordingly between component and AV. Afaik this is the most elegant solution that allows you to enjoy the clarity of component video in PS2 games.

I don't think think having to use yellow video in for psx games is satisfactory when they were working with composite before. I'll try the upscaler.

>EDIT: If you're just getting into PS1 games on the PS2 you should also know you need a PS1 memory card to save your game.

I'm not just getting into them. I've played them on my ps2 for 18 years. :) Most of the time through composite (YPbPr), which my old tv supported (and all psx games worked like that).


>PS2 memory cards inexplicably do not get recognized by the game.

They have a different data format so (though you could argue they could have made so you can put a 128KB psx save file onto a ps2 memory card).

But thanks anyway

Not sure why you would want the l/r and the center, other than it's a good deal. Are you hoping to fill it out to 5.1 eventually?

I've never heard Fluance, but the go-to recommendations around here are one of these two Pioneer speakers, or the Miccas. Search this sub to look for reviews (and double check the model numbers if you're interested. I'm doing this from memory). If you get the Pioneers you should be able to afford the subwoofer that goes with it. Also, you can usually find a Polk sub like this one on sale.

There are better options, I'm sure, but these get a lot of recommendations for budget systems. I have a brother in law with the Pioneers and no sub and he's pretty happy.

As for hooking it up, you just need a 3.5mm to RCA jack cable like this one. Also, if your receiver has an s/pdif input you could go from the sound card to the receiver that way. If you use the first cable, the sound card will be decoding the digital into analog. If you use the s/pdif cable, your receiver will do the decoding. Depending on the DACs in the card and receiver, one might be better than the other.

Sure did! works great, very east to use. Been switching the stack between the PS4 optical and the micro usb connector (need a longer cable) on my MacBook pro. Noticeable difference when I'm just using the aux on my mac.

Also @jayfurious

> I remember having to do this setting everytime I unplugged and replugged in the splitter from the dualshock. But I don't have a PS4 anymore, so not sure if the annoyance is still there or they fixed it.

It's still there tolerable though.

Previous setup I was using the Steel Series Arctis 7 for well over a year. At first I was unimpressed following the common theme from a-lot of HD650/HD6XX reviews. Been using them alot recently and now I really can tell the difference in sound signature now. Will try the Arctis 7s in a week or so here to see how much of a difference I notice. I use them for (order from most to least) gaming where I'm still getting used to the soundstage for FPS (ambient/soundtracks in single player game , movies/TV which gave me a-lot more appreciation for them, hearing every detail, and last but certainly not least music; where I find these shine the most IMO LOOOOVED my first listen to Yes - Roundabout. Huge difference when going through that stack rather than my Macbooks aux.

I also have to highly commend Roppmaster's RCA cable recommendation

>RCA cables: https://www.amazon.com/0-5-Foot-RCA-Cable-Pair/dp/B01ALMYOHQ/.

The extension cables were a must for me and a great purchase.

These work so much better than the Monoprice RCA's I originally opted for they were so inflexible they were actually lifting the backside of my Modi 3 into the air. These RCA's are the perfect flexibility for the stack setup. Will post a pic soon.

Correct, standard RCA cable to connect everything. From what I'm reading on the Tapco's, they have a stereo RCA input. Turntable > ART DJ Pre II > monitors.

As LionsMouth pointed out below (and I stupidly missed) the Tannoys are active monitors as well. You could test out which pair you like best and go with those. I didn't find a manual in my quick google search, but from what I can see, the Tannoy's use a combo 1/4"-phone/XLR cable connection. If it is a 1/4" cable, you will need to find a pair of mono-RCA-to-mono-1/4" cable to connect from the DJ Pre II to the back of the Tannoys.

The other thing you will really, really want is some sort of line attenuator to control the volume. It looks like neither the Tannoy or Tapco have a volume control built into them. You could use the gain trim on the DJ Pre II, but that would be far less than ideal.

One other thing that would be very handy would be a simple AV switch box. This would allow you to connect a MP3 player or other audio source along with your turntable.

Outside of the turntable (not knocking you or it -- we all got to start somewhere) the other gear you have is really good quality stuff. Like I said the MX-2 is worth holding onto for the future if you get into this hobby. Otherwise, you could sell it for a decent penny.

Links for reference:

RCA to 1/4" adapter cable

RCA to 1/4" adapter

Line Level Attenuator

AV Switchbox

The RCA-to-1/4" cable or adapters can probably be found at any store that sells music equipment. Line level attenuator might need to be ordered. AV switchboxes are generally everywhere and should be at any big box or online retailer.

You can get a 3.5m to dual rca male cable or 3.5mm to rca socket for easier splitting but need a rca male to male. Keep in mind to set your realtek driver to max power (differs for different drivers/software). Also a good motherboard is recommended like the modern alc1220 or even alc892-897). Ideally a high snr board (some low end boards are good like the msi tomahawk[except b450 ughh dont know why msi dumdbed it down:(] or mortar with high output for the codec they implemented by implementing good amps). You also need speaker wire or 2 premade speaker cable for sturdier and easier connection process

More speakers doesn't equal more immersive. When buying sound equipment a lot of the value comes from things not properly listed on specifications, such as total range frequency within a certain amount of total harmonic distortion.

A good set of studio monitors is a better sound solution than most people have ever owned.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GP56OYA - Some slightly above entry level studio monitors.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6 - Connection cable needed.

https://www.amazon.com/Studio-Solutions-Density-Isolation-Monitors/dp/B01FGCC2FM - Isolation pads to prevent desk vibration and angles them towards your ears properly.

Assuming your motherboard isn't using a really poor audio chipset and you are using a high quality audio source they will sound pretty good. If you want to hit frequencies below 70Hz with significant volume I suggest adding a dedicated subwoofer of 10" minimum, although 12-15" is more ideal.

Bit of a long shot, but this adapter will get you a 3.5mm headphone audio out.

Now, I say it's a long shot because it's pretty worthless at $35, however, all the WalMart stores around my area have them all on clearance for $7, which makes it a much better deal. While it doesn't say anything about working on a PS3, I have tried it, and it does work, though you will want a headset or speakers with volume control.

Otherwise, use an old PlayStation composite out cable, with the red, white, and yellow connectors, and get something like this adapter to convert it to a 3.5mm headphone jack.

Best of luck, and happy hunting!

I have jerry rigged plenty of turntables up for sampling so... let's see what we can do here...

(1) Pick up a used turntable from your local craigslist or used electronics shop (follow the guide or post here for recommendations). Depending on your location, $100 will find a basic vintage turntable. Make sure you get a new stylus, maybe even a new cartridge depending on what you want to do. If you want to do backcueing, starting and stopping on the fly, or scratching, get a DJ-oriented cartridge. I recommend the Shure M44-7, it's a workhorse and widely available, you can even pick them up at Guitar Center if there is not an audio shop around you. Runs about $60-70. DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT backcue, start and stop on the fly, or scratch with a regular cartridge. You will fuck up your stylus and your record.

(2) As long as the 2i2 has a built in preamp (not sure if the mic preamps on it will work for all turntable--see comment below) all you need to go from your turntable to your 2i2 are adaptors that go from RCA to 1/4 jacks that you can then plug into your 2i2. You can pick them up at Radio shack or order them online. You can use a regular RCA cable and then use these RCA-to-1/4 adaptors, they are like $3... Radio shack will have them if you don't want to order them online. You could also pick up a RCA-to-1/4 cable, these are more expensive and I would just go with the first option as it also allows you to use better cables, but that's up to you. These are your cheapest options to get you started. The best way to sample is to run your turntable into a dedicated audiocard with RCA/phono jacks on your computer... something to think about in your future.

(3) If the mic preamps on the 2i2 do not work or sound weird because they do not have RIAA equalization, then you might need a phone preamp amp. The cheapest one that gets recommended around here is the ART DJPRE II which is $50. You would hook up your turntable to the preamp and then run the cables with the adaptors mentioned in (2) to the 2i2.

(4) If (2) and (3) don't work or seem like too much you could always pick up a preamp with a USB output. I know that there is the ART USB Phono that has built in USB output for $80. I have not used this and cannot comment on the sound quality.

Good luck.

Alright, thanks! Would something like this work? (Maybe there's a better quality brand I should look into?) http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CPR203-Dual-Inch/dp/B000068O18/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1408054622&sr=1-1&keywords=TS+to+RCA

Also, if you don't mind me adding onto the question, I'd like to try my best to milk my DAC/Amp for as much as possible. Would you recommend going for something better than the Magni and/or replacing my DAC in the future if I want the most out of my sound? Thanks again.

RT80 with conical needle for $200? A better option with an elliptical needle and less cost is the Teac TN-300SE Black or Walnut $150 with Coupon code SPIN in the shopping cart click "Have a promo code" above the subtotal on top.

A worthwhile upgrade is the Fluance RT82 $299. It has an optical sensor speed controlled motor for lower wow and flutter and speed variation specs than the RT80 and RT81. A later optional upgrade is the acrylic platter as seen on the $500 RT85 for around $89 when Fluance gets it in stock.

However, you will need to add an external phono stage/preamp which is the better option anyway. Music Hall Mini $75 for example. Plus an RCA interconnect cable. I use a Schitt Mani $129 phono stage with my RT82 and they sound great together.

If you split the signal out of a turntable with built in phono stage or external phono stage you would need to adjust both the volume of the subwoofer and the speakers separately every time you change the volume.

An option with the Edifiers is to connect a subwoofer with speaker level inputs between the master and slave speakers. You would only get bass from one channel instead of both, though bass is usually the same on both channels anyways.

For better sound quality, I recommend a speaker setup upgrade before adding a subwoofer.

The standard way to connect a subwoofer to powered speakers are to get speakers with a subwoofer output RCA jack or an amp or receiver with speaker wire subwoofer hookup or a receiver with an RCA subwoofer pre-out jack.

Low budget subwoofers with speaker level inputs.

• 10" Dayton Audio SUB-1000 $120.
  
• 12" Dayton Audio SUB-1200 $150.
  
  See Speaker Wire Only Sub Hookup and 2.1 Simple Hookup Diagram
  
  Guides:
  
  
• Home Audio: Intro to home stereo systems • Zeos Tutorials, Diagrams and Videos • Guide to Home Audio • AverageJoeAudiophile's Guides
  
• Speaker Positioning: How to position your speakers for great sound and Speaker Placement for Stereo Music Listening.
  
  Also check out r/BudgetAudiophile.

Mike was right, except replace RCA with 1/4". Clicky

You are also correct about the Stereo into Mono being the reasons for your problems. The Focusrite has 2 mono preamps, so you still need to break up the stereo signal from your Monitor into 2 separate mono channels...thus you still need a 'Stereo 3.5mm to 2 x 1/4" Mono' breakout cable ;) But this is pretty much unnecessary as your monitors are self-powered and can run straight from your computer monitor. This is how I run it off my TV into my monitors. Less cables, but good enough sound.

Stereo TRS -- Tip - Left, Ring - Right, Sleeve - Ground.

Balanced TRS -- Tip - Signal, Ring - Out-of-Phase Signal, Sleeve - Ground

Here is the biggest issue, running through your computer monitor is using your monitor's DA Converter, which is probably pretty shite. You would gain little benefit from using your Focusrite after going through that conversion. The best way would be to use the optical (digital) out of the PS4, or split the HDMI into a digital audio output with a splitter, but the Focusrite has no input for ADAT or SPDIF or AES anyways.

So, as long as there is no issue with your monitors having both 1/4" and XLR inputs at the same time, I would run the 3.5mm->1/4" straight to your monitors, Focusrite output to XLR inputs for your computer, and leave the preamp inputs on your Focusrite open for recording =)

There is a guy named James Randi who had a contest that will pay US $l,000,000 to any person who demonstrates any psychic, supernatural, or paranormal ability under satisfactory observation. Saying basically if you can prove that your "hi-end" cable "sounds" better that a cheepo then he'll give you a million bucks. It was obviously never won and ended in a lawsuit but still interesting.

I have dozens of cables and an empty wallet. The only difference i've ever heard was in an RCA shoot-out between Belden 1694a coax cable (75ohm), Kable Direct, and this QVS cable I got from Microcenter. The Belden sounded good and had a very dark tone. I ended up using them in my home theater for the long runs through the floorboards. The other two sounded similar but I found the QVS to be a bit more revealing. But in all fairness I think I liked them better because I spent more for the pair. I still use both everyday.

It's easy to get caught up in the hype of hi-fi audio. Save your money.

There's a switch on the back of the Behringer amp tl pick from stereo or mono. Set it to mono, and both channels will be driven by a single input: Same thing as a Y cable, but with fewer parts.

Your list looks pretty complete, but that XLR cable won't do you much good with a typical receiver unless it also has an XLR output (most are RCA outputs).

The Behringer amp can accept XLR or 1/4" connections. If it were me and my own system, I'd get something like this:

Hosa CPR-201 Dual 1/4" TS to Dual RCA Stereo Interconnect Cable, 1 Meter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O16/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Cfd8CbWWVZMT4

Split the pair and put half in a drawer for when you get a receiver with multiple subwoofer outputs, or decide to rent some full-range PA speakers to piss off the neighbors with.

Speaking of PA: Handles are glorious things for enormous and heavy boxes. If you can work some into your design, I think you'll be much happier when those monsters inevitably need moved.

the Lepy amp or the Kinter will Drive them. Supposed to be 20RMSx2 so a 40 or 50 x2 amp........I'd buy an amp that comes with power supply to make it easy. You'll have Better Highs than the Bose, maybe less Bass but more Balanced Overall.

3.5mm to rca cable to hook to PC........

Need 1 - https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref

Banana Plug speaker wire makes it Easier to hook speakers to amp - just plug in like rcas But Not necessary

Need 2 - https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Speaker-Cable-Gold-Plated-Banana/dp/B07FKJDTPY/ref

​

I run Micca MB42Xs on Desktop with a Topping MX3 Dac/headphone amp/amp combo with Bluetooth. Room is 14x18' and Open to Kitchen on One side with a bar separating them. Fills Room(s) Pretty Well.

Recorded on Iphone so does Not convey the Sound Quality.........

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cjg7uIg11_Q

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d6pYIp7OUGY

other amps:

https://www.amazon.com/%E3%80%90Update%E3%80%91-Audio-Amplifier-Receiver-Integrated/dp/B076P2VS9H/ref

https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Bluetooth-Amplifier-Wireless-Audio/dp/B07DPKSKVQ/ref (Bluetooth)

https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref

this One has Bluetooth and supposed to be Clean. My Choice if not a Topping MX3.........

https://www.amazon.com/Amplifier-TPA3116D2-Bluetooth-Adjustment-Amplifiers/dp/B07Q2XC7K3/ref=

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pAN8IKXcFtQ&t=828s

​

MB42X + SMSL SA100 amp+ 3.5mm to Rca cable+ 2 Amazon Basics Banana Plug Speaker wires = $173.69 plus tax

There are a number of solutions available. My assumption is you are looking to use the external computer speakers you have currently without investing in a larger sound bar or AV receiver type solution. I also assume those external speakers are connected to the headphone jack (3.5mm) on your computer.

Basically you need to get the audio out of the HDMI signal from the cable box/console. Unfortunately it doesn't look like that Sony model has an audio loop out of the HDMI audio (that would be the best way). If you are lucky the next easiest solution is something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Male-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable/dp/B000I23TTE

A simple RCA to headphone adapter. I know with the cable box I own, all the outputs are live. Meaning you can plug into any of the analog audio outputs (RCA L/R). One thing to note is that this may not work even if those outputs are live. Sometimes HDMI has a processing delay at the cable box or the projector. So the audio may be off by a few frames or more.

I do not know if that would work for a game console. If it only has HDMI out then you would need an active device to extract the audio, and at that point you probably are spending close to a nicer sound bar type solution. If the console has component outputs it may be easier to go analog (RGB RCA connectors and RL RCA audio). You would need a VGA to RCA adaptor cable for the projector as well then:

http://www.amazon.com/VGA-RCA-Component-RGB-Cable/dp/B003DSC96E

(this analog solution would also work for the cable box)

For the Wii or game cube, both of those are just standard composite video with analog audio so the above audio adapter would work.

Either get the JDS Labs Atom Amp and OL DAC ($200 + $15 shipping), or save a little bit of money and get a Monoprice Liquid Spark and a Massdrop Grace SDAC ($180 + free shipping). Either option is great, with the JDS Labs option being simpler to get a hold of (same online store) and the other option being slightly cheaper. Neither will disappoint, and both are a little bit better than a Schiit Stack.

​

JDS Labs option:

https://jdslabs.com/product/atom-amp/

https://jdslabs.com/product/ol-dac/

​

Other option:

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=33304

https://www.massdrop.com/buy/massdrop-x-grace-design-standard-dac

​

Don't forget to get Amazon Basics RCA cables and a decent usb cable to hook them up.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-2-Male-RCA-Audio-Cable/dp/B01D5H8P0G/ref=sxin_2?keywords=rca+cable&pd_rd_i=B01D5H8P0G&pd_rd_r=d5b4131b-5bb5-439b-9b5c-11a205d8a3df&pd_rd_w=3owY2&pd_rd_wg=6yjsC&pf_rd_p=0395a9fd-d124-46c0-a48f-d8582ed1a45c&pf_rd_r=J1JWK7YFY9D8XK5S47XX&qid=1555197970&s=gateway

​

For the OL DAC:

https://www.amazon.com/JSAUX-Printer-Scanner-Brother-Lexmark/dp/B07KXRW7FN/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=usb+type+a&qid=1555198004&s=gateway&sr=8-17

​

For the Grace SDAC:

https://www.amazon.com/Android-JSAUX-Charger-Braided-Compatible/dp/B07DFC297R/ref=sr_1_17?qid=1555198129&s=gateway&sr=8-17&srs=18609081011

> Now, would it be bad to the speakers behind the sides of the monitor? It might not look very great, but I'll have 13" of room on either side. But, I'll also be limited to 9" deep, because of the wall.

As long as the sound waves aren't obstructed by the monitor you should be fine. One thing to keep in mind is that speakers in this price range often have ports (where the air is pushed out as the speaker is operating). In a lot of cases the port is in the back, so you'd want to give at least 6" between the back of the speaker and the wall.

> So the DAC and amp can go anywhere? Like between my desk and the wall (if it'll fit) so that it's hidden?

They can go anywhere, but you may want to keep the amp within arms reach for volume control. Or you can set it to a value and control with your computer. Up to you.

Regarding measurements. Bookshelf speakers vary quite a bit in size, so once you pick whichever set you want just make sure they will fit your desk. The smallest set that's worth buying IMHO is the Micca MB42X.

On another note, I tend to agree with /u/BeardedAlbatross that if you can find JBL LSR305 in your price range then that's the way to go. People are rarely disappointed in them. They have an amp included and you can always run you motherboard as the DAC. So to sum up, if you can find the LSR305 for ~$200 and they would fit your desk then I'd get those and these cables.

If not then the other option I listed with a UCA202 DAC, SMSL SA50 amp, and whichever speaker set you want.

From what I can tell, you have an Apple Music subscription, which is the only streaming service that allows you to play music using Siri. In that case, you can buy a Bluetooth receiver, such as this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008AGQMQC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Kgo5AbBDF24K8

A lot of these seem to be made with batteries so they can work in cars, but I see no issue with just leaving it plugged into the charger.

Chromecast audio does not appear to have Bluetooth from what I can tell (although I don't own one, so if someone can say otherwise, please do.)

You could also do what I did and hook up an Amazon Echo Dot to your speakers. You won't be able to use Alexa to control Apple Music, but you can say "Alexa, connect my phone" and then play it over Bluetooth. I bought a used one with zero scratches or anything like that for $30 and I couldn't be happier.

You'll also probably need a 3.5mm to RCA adapter, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Fmo5AbMYS6FKM

Hope this helps, just reply if you have any questions. :)

Edit: also I just noticed the thing in your post about the Charge 3, I have a UE Boom and it wouldn't let me do something like that, so I doubt the charge 3 would either.

Seems like your MB is the most likely culprit as you already pointed out. I first thought it's a problem because you are double amping the signal, but you said you tried to same setup with your friends MB and you heard no static. Easiest test would be maybe borrowing your friends DAC for a day and seeing if that resolves the issue. If it does you can go ahead and buy one for yourself. The Modi 2 Uber is a great piece of equipment and will do the job. Your MB has optical out so i'd say you use that to connect your PC with the DAC and a normal RCA to RCA cable like this cheaper one will also do.

good advice here in this thread so far but your description leaves us all guessing a bit.

if, as I suspect, the mic does not require phantom power Then:
I think that a possibly better solution would be to get a stereo mini female to two RCA Male and use the "Record In" or "tape In" RCA's found towards the right on most behringer mixers.

Lika dis: http://www.amazon.com/Male-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable/dp/B000I23TTE

Edit: On second thought the mic probably won't have the voltage to drive that RCA tape in input without a preamp of some kind to "step up" the mic to line level
(the RCA inputs expect line level) ( maybe this would have same chance of kinda working that your 1/8 to 1/4 adapters had going in to line inputs -you would have to gain em up a lot and you would increase the noise floor)
Does your input of your channels have a mic/line switch by the 1/4 inputs --if so this gets you around that aspect of the problem --set the square up/down switch to mic and you are good with what you have (maybe )

What you really might need is a cable that will break out the 3.5 male jack into two XLR's I think (if the mic male mini jack is a stereo plug that does not involve the earphone side of your headset!) -- in this scenario , depending on whether you male plug is TRS,TRRS, or TRRRS, you might end up with one xlr having the mic signal you need going into your mixer ( yay!) and the other one "needing" to have the audio send to your earphone going into it.

Kinda Lika Dis One: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Stereo-3-5mm-Male-feet/dp/B000068OEP/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407295366&sr=8-1&keywords=xlr+to+mini+stereo but with a female on the 1/8 side -- an 1/8 Stereo "barrel" would convert the one shown to the right gender

2nd Edit: the above mini to 2 male XLR break out cable would be need only IF the mic has [a TRS mini plug  <br />
TRS = Tip Ring Sleeve  aka stereo - or possibly send receive as this is a two way headset right?](http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Audio-TRS-Mini-Plug.jpg)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
that would make it possibly  a stereo mic , or at least compatible with a typical computer's 1/8&quot; stereo INPUT <br />
<br />
The XLR breakout linked in edit 2 Might require one leg to be plugged into the mic in and the other one might need to be fed with the line or speaker out of your computer  <br />
 ( without all the facts man, this is damn confusing, I know, but we can get you through this when you fill us in with the ant swears to my  impotent questions(~):-])  <br />
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~`<br />
<br />
3rd edit --I just realized that your &quot;typical gaming headset&quot; probably has in AND out on the ring section of the 1/8 plug Unless it splits out to two discrete plugs to go into your computer -one for mic sound in and one for earphone sound out.   <br />
Or it [could be a TRRS male mini ( that is have two rings on the plug) ](http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/3b/3.5mm.jpg/220px-3.5mm.jpg) or even TRRRS ( three rings)  <br />
this makes things much more complicated.    <br />
Do you hope to continue to &quot;hear&quot; from this headset as well as &quot;Send audio&quot; ( use as a mic)??<br />
<br />
does it have separate jacks for headphone and for mic?  Or all in one?  <br />
if all in one is into some sort of interface before th compooter?<br />
<br />
Home many rings on your mini plug??<br />
<br />
what is the make and model of the headset?  <br />
is the make and model of the mixer?<br />
<br />
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~<br />
<br />
me &amp;lt;&amp;lt; lots of audio troubleshooting experience, but zero knowledge of gaming headsets<br />
<br />
Please provide the answers to f the questions i asked and I might be able to help with a more definitive answer in a less corn fusing manor with way less wurdz

That was my problem too in the beginning. This may get a little long, but I can definitely help you out.

Elgato has page to help with this issue

I use the original Elgato HD and at first I had a headset with a USB and 3.5mm headphone jack, so I had to make a little jerry rig setup with a splitter and an audio Y cable

But if you are willing to spend some money, I highly recommend getting this headset
Its what I am using now because I can talk to my teammates in game, hear my tv audio, and listen to music or donation goals on my PC since it has a multi media source input.

I hope this helps.

Ok, so you have 2 audio out ways. The first is optical. This is much better, can do surround sound etc, but isn't exactly headphone friendly, so scratch that. You also have RCA out, which can easily go to a headphone, so here is what you will need.

First up, you need an adapter to convert RCA to a headphone. You might have one hanging around as some mp3 players, etc, comes with them. If not, Amazon has it for 1.46 with free shipping. You can also get them at bestbuy/walmart/etc, but they will likely cost at least $20. Once you have it, you can plug it into the red and white "audio out" ports on the bottom back panel. the closest 2 rca ports to the ethernet cable, and right next to the headphone port (to bad it is only audio in, for from PC's).

Ok, now you have a headphone jack, time to get headphones. You get a bit of choice, as now you just need wireless headphones. This is also where most the money will be. Personally, I would get something like this from amazon or this from ebay. This lets you use any bluetooth headphone with your TV, thus the headphones will work with your phone, etc, and be of more use. If you do go this way, you can get cheap headphones like this all the way up to very good ones. Whatever you want.

If you don't want to mess with bluetooth, or it is too much, you can just get this from ebay for cheap, or this one from amazon. They will both work, though won't be as useful, and likely won't sound as well as the bluetooth ones. Also, if you get the amazon one, it can actually directly connect to the rca output, so that is a plus :).



TLDR: If you want the cheapest way, just buy this. Though not the best, it should do exactly what you need.

You need a 3.5mm stereo TRS to stereo RCA adapter. They're extremely common, should be very easy to find. Just like this, but I'm sure there are other options for cheaper. That's just the first link that popped up. (And actually, I recognize those plugs as being not the best. It's better when the four leaves of the outer ring of the RCA plug don't come full circle around, they spring in and out and grip better that way. Funny thing is that style tends to be cheaper, so look around a bit yourself.)

Don't listen to the other guy telling you to buy a DAC for plugging into some cheap boombox. That's like putting a spoiler and spinning rims on a Prius. Your motherboard's output audio is just fine for that gear. (Honestly, probably higher quality than the speakers. See if you can find a used Klipsch Promedia set or something.)

I actually had this problem the other day! As you may know, the menus of most ps1 games are at 480p, but the game itself is at 240p, a resolution so unusual most TV's just ignore it. Over composite (also referred to as AV, RCA, and a million other names), it doesn't really care though.

If your TV has component as well as RCA, you could buy one of these cables that you can plug into both the component and composite inputs (If both these inputs do not share a sound input, you'll need A 2-pack of these splitters to make it work)

Then, depending on if you're playing a PS1 or PS2 game, you can just change the input on your TV accordingly between component and AV. Afaik this is the most elegant solution that allows you to enjoy the clarity of component video in PS2 games.

EDIT: If you're just getting into PS1 games on the PS2 you should also know you need a PS1 memory card to save your game. PS2 memory cards inexplicably do not get recognized by the game.

So the magni 3 has rca inputs.

So my set up is computer --> optical --> smsl 793 dac --> rca --> magni 3 --> headphones.

The smsl 793 is actually a dac/amp combo but I found it underwhelming with my 6XX, luckily it has a line out if you only want to use the dac portion. I've had it for years but they were only pushing 32 and 80 ohm headphones before and would really struggle to reach listening volume with 300ohms.

However a dac is not necessary. You could very easily take the 3.5mm jack into a split rca into the magni, then hook your headphones to that. You'd just need this cable between your pc and the amp.

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66

Many people recommend a dac simply because it can make an improvement in sound, will help avoid electrical interference since the signal is over USB or SPDIF (Coax & Optical), and can help if you have a noise floor issue (hiss) and jitter.

Most modern dacs in computers are fairly decent, and the the built in amps are not terrible for headphones up to 32-80 ohm range. But once you get into those high ohm, you have to get an amp.

If you like to pump your bass, then I recommend the JBL LSR 305 for $89 each. https://www.amazon.com/JBL-Professional-LSR305-First-Generation-Powered/dp/B00DUKP37C/

The LSR305 are studio monitors that compete well in overall SQ with the best powered speakers <$500. IMO, they have better midbass and deeper bass extension than many other speakers their size. For example their lower end rated response is 43hz for their 5" drivers vs. 60hz for those Edifiers with the smaller 4" drivers. I think realistically, they have solid 50hz performance (and likely the Edifiers would be more like 70hz).

Tons of professional reviews for those speakers as they have been popular for years.

You would need to also purchase a special cable to plug it into your computer: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6

Getting ready to purchase the JBL LSR305's as recommended. I like to have higher quality systems at work, but I wanted some decent sound for the house computer.

Aside from these Breakout Cables, is there anything else I need / can do to improve the sound (that's worth the effort?) I just plug this straight into my Mobo's audio jack right? Would a dedicated soundcard make a significant difference? Would a USB to DAC to Breakout cables be worth it? If so any recommended DACs for these speaks? I'm mostly only familiar with headphone setups

Fyi I already have a lot of high quality source music so I'm mainly just talking about the hardware

I'm less familiar with this area but I believe either of these would suit your needs:

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dta-120bt2-class-d-mini-amplifier-60-wpc-with-bluetooth--300-3803?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvJaXrZ3J4wIVj4vICh19MA91EAQYASABEgLD4fD_BwE

​

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dta-21bt2-100w-21-class-d-bluetooth-amplifier-with-sub-frequency-adjustment--300-3831?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvJaXrZ3J4wIVj4vICh19MA91EAQYBCABEgLCQvD_BwE

​

I also found a comparison video on reddit for these two:

https://www.reddit.com/r/BudgetAudiophile/comments/9ba6x8/dayton_audio_amplifier_shootout_dta21bt_vs/

​

Also, I didn't realize you were playing audio from your computer. You'll need something like this to run from the line out of your laptop to the Lepai or Dayton (or edifier):

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8JW0/ref=asc_df_B01D5H8KO2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167146065113&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4591896362316768558&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011555&hvtargid=pla-303037967706&th=1

​

Unless you have some digital output from your computer that the Edifier accepts, a USB audio interface is preferred for connecting a computer to external speakers. This is mainly because the onboard DAC of a computer (or television) is (usually) not high quality. You will have this issue with the Edifier as well. I wouldn't worry too much about this at this point.

​

If you were to stick with the Lepai, you'd just plug your headphones directly into the computer aux port and not use the lepai at all (as it does not have an aux port).

​

Pros compared to Edifier: >$100 cheaper, better sound (probably debatable, I've not heard the edifiers), passive speakers can be used with an AV receiver if you decide to upgrade in the future to an AV receiver for surround sound

​

Cons: No remote, extra interfaces required for different inputs

​

If you are wanting to input from a variety of sources (ie. TV and computer) you may be better off with the Edifier since you do not want to get an AV receive

If you have a USB 2.0 capture card, any audio to desktop through HDMI will have a slight delay.. so that's probably not an option.

I literally had this exact same problem OP, and I am pleased to say that I've fixed it (albeit needing more equipment than I thought I would need).

You could run a 3.5mm audio cable from the Wii U headphone jack into your mixer, but that only works for the Wii U. If you ever wanted to stream another console, you might not be able to use the same method. That's why I use an HDMI audio extractor.

I have a Xenyx 802, and here's my setup:

HDMI Audio Extractor: Amazon

Cables going from HDMI audio extractor to mixer: Amazon

Adapters for RCA to 1/4": Amazon

From PC headphone jack to mixer: Amazon

Then I just use a 1/4" to 3.5mm adapter in the headphone port of the mixer and boom -- all the audio from both desktop AND console to one headset.

Disclaimer: There may very well be a better / more efficient way to do this.. I admit that I'm still a pretty big noob when it comes to audio equipment, but this was my holy grail for the longest time, and I finally found a way to do it :).

Thanks for looking on eBay! I've decided (for now) to make my life a little bit easier and just hook up the speakers to the turntable, and I got an RCA volume controller for like $7 which is a lot less money haha. So now, hopefully, this will be my chain.

I'm just connecting the RCA volume controller in between the turntable and speakers, and then will have an RCA to TS cable to connect the controller to the speakers. I'm hoping this is all I need!

My thinking is that I'll evaluate how much I miss not having good speakers to play Spotify out of, and if it's worth going through the huge hassle of getting the switcher etc. Maybe when my budget is higher I'll be less anxious. In total, I just spent a little over $200 on this project...not bad!

The R16 uses combo jacks which can accept XLR or 1/4" line plugs. The 1/4" plugs coming from consumer equipment should be TS unbalanced, not TRS balanced. Something like this if you want stereo

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/

or this for mono

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-303-inch-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3G/

Don't go real cheap with analog cables. It matters less with digital but just make sure it's not bottom tier and has a good rating.

The ATR2100 is a decent mic, but it's the USB/XLR flexibility that gets it flagged as a preferred mic. Nothing wrong with it, but look around at the other options in your price range like the Shure SM58 at $100 or the Blue EnCORE 100. Price varies a lot for these but a two pack plus some kit is $130 here

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Encore-Microphone-Stands-Cables/dp/B01LONG3FM/

The ATR is not bad. Just suggesting options. For the record, I do not own an enCORE 100. I do have an enCORE 300.

!

Honestly I think your best bet is upgrading your interface and getting a 3.5mm to 1/4" stereo adapter cable. A scarlett 18i20 is $499 and you'll probably never need another interface; it has enough to easily record a full band live. You could just send the turntable line out to the line ins on the back (you'd probably need another $5 1/4" trs to dual ts cable), and plug in everything else as normal. Any of the focusrite interfaces has a knob for headphones and monitors, so switching there shouldn't be a problem even with the interface you have. You could get 6i6 or something smaller if you wanna save some money, though. Another nice thing about the interfaces that are higher in the series than the 2i2 is that they have built in midi interfaces on the back, which can be really helpful for keyboards/controllers and stuff. USB midi and a usb audio interface separately is asking for driver/latency issues.

I would caution you against a mixer, because while it works, it's more expensive and a small mixer really won't have many uses in the future should you decide to upgrade your home studio, while a bigger interface will last you forever.

>Can I run the powered speaker through that DAC?

yes plug an RCA cable from the back of the DAC to the speaker

>I also don't have optical on my mobo if that affects anything.

no the DAC will also work through USB connection

>Should the 580X with 150Ohm be fine for the X6

I don't know much of anything about headphones, but apparently 150 ohm is still in a territory where portable players "don't need an amp", so I'm guessing you're good

>Is this setup good enough (not good just good enough)) for a budget upgrade from onboard audio and HD 280 + $15 logitech speakers.

again I don't know about headphones but yes the speakers will be a massive upgrade. If your logitech setup had a subwoofer you may have less bass now, but you can add a much better subwoofer than PC speakers have later if need be.

>Do I need to buy speaker wires for the Micca?

no, it comes with some.

Sure. The audio can be a little tricky but here is what I have. The easiest thing would be if your home theater system or tv accepted optical inputs so that you could use the xbox's built in optical and connect if directly to your tv or home theater system without doing any conversions. If that does not work you have to convert the optical to a 3.5mm connection or a rca audio connection (these are the red and white components next to your dvi connection) . The way to do that is by way of adapter or cords. Like others have stated adapters might give you latency problems. So a cord might prove the better way to go. Ultimately for your connection it looks like you will have to go from optical to 3.5mm to RCA audio. Conversely the newer controllers have a 3.5mm connection built into it. So you would just have to go from 3.5mm to RCA audio.

I'll try to find links but hopefully this gives you a starting point.

Edit

Start with this or {this + this} then convert that signal to RCA with this

-In theory this should work

For non-simultaneous playback:

Here's what you could do:
Buy one 3.5mm Stereo Male to Two RCA Male Splitter Cable, and one 2 x RCA Male, 1 x 3.5mm Stereo Female, Y-Cable 6-Inch. Also get a 3-Way Audio Video AV RCA Switch Selector Box Splitter. That all together is $9.82 US.

Connect the xbox to your TV as normal. Use the RCA cable included with the splitter to connect your TV's audio output to the Splitter's Input 1. You don't need to connect the yellow video connection on that cable. Then use a male 3.5mm Stereo to RCA cord to connect your laptop/iphone's headphone jack to the Splitter's Input 2. Plug the 2 x RCA Male, 1 x 3.5mm Stereo Female, Y-Cable 6-Inch cable into the Splitter's Output, and connect your headphones to the 3.5mm female end. You should then easily be able to switch between ipod/laptop and xbox/tv sound feeding to your headphones by adjusting the splitter's output switch. This is a very basic setup, but should achieve what you're going for as long as you didn't want the two inputs playing simultaneously.

For simultaneous playback:

Here's what you could do (I admit this is probably a bit of a wrap around way of doing it, but it was fun to come up with):

Buy:
Two Behringer MICROMIX MX400 4-Channel Mixer, one 3.5mm Stereo Male To 2 RCA Male Cable, one Male RCA to male RCA cable, one male RCA to female 3.5mm cable, six 3.5mm to 2RCA female adapter, and six 1/4 inch to 1/8 inch stereo jack adapters. This setup without shipping and handling costs $75.55 US.

This thing only outputs in mono though, so it doesn't benefit your headphones greatly (only one side will play sound). This is why we're gonna get two of them though, and this is the fun part. Check out this picture: http://i.imgur.com/UPMX5j2.png. It has the steps included with a crude illustration. The benefit of this setup is that you can have the ipod/laptop coming in at a different volume than the tv/xbox. Also has space for two more inputs if your ever have more you want to plug in (or to allow a laptop and ipod to be plugged in at the same time).

I... I think that setup would work.

These aren't highly sought after products. Orion only has a few of those (such as 90s HCCA stuff which were fine, but only really consumed these days for nostalgia). So they are really worth what any oldish used electronics product in unknown condition is worth these days: not much unfortunately.

The good news is they probably still work. Solid-state electronics can be just fine ten or twenty years later. The best way to test them is to hook them up to a charged-up car battery or the 12V output of a computer power supply. Then plug in a phone with a minijack to RCA conversion cable (https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8KO2). Of course you'll have to plug them into a speaker. Even if it's an 8 Ohm home speaker, you can still test them just fine.) And if they don't work, there's a million low-cost replacement options out there these days.

I can find only fragments of the other thread you're referring to, but the TS-to-RCA cable is legit. It's not an adapter or coupler or anything like that. It certainly won't be the best connection option, but again, it works (it wouldn't damage the audio interface or the speaker), and it would cost far less than a pair of new monitors.

I looked at those speakers you have (or had). They're these? Those are more like bookshelf speakers, not active studio monitors. And $400 for the pair? You can do better than that for less money.

The JBL 305P monitors are another popular choice. They cost $150 each, and taxes/shipping could push the cost of the pair past your $300 budget. But both the Presonus and JBL monitors are fine choices.

Upgrading the Modi wouldn't, but upgrading the Magni would - the Magni 2 Uber has a pre-amp output.
Essentially this just passes the input from your Modi through the Magni's volume control without amplifying it, when there's no headphones connected. With headphones connected of course, the input is amplified and sent to them. Again, the pre-out is RCA so the same cables as above if you chose that. Bear in mind this only works with either speakers or headphones at once, if you want to output to both at once you'd want a simple RCA splitter.

Again, neither is necessary since the Windows volume control is an option, but it's much easier.

RE speaker stands: Mostly comes down to preference and their looks. These are inexpensive and should fit / be strong enough for the LSR308.

Component order should look like this:

Computer -> Modi -> Sys -> Speakers OR Magni
Optional Second Source ^

If you're regularly swapping between the two, you could connect both at once using a splitter or switch box. Otherwise, those cables look good.

Analog to Digital Converter

3.5mm to Male RCA

This is basically your option outside of buying a new soundbar or TV. Also look into some of the budget speaker setups on this subreddit. It will absolutely kill any soundbar you purchase. Not going to totally shit on you for getting a soundbar like everyone else in the sub but MB42X and a cheap amp off of accessories for less is an awesome beginning to a budget build.

So you will run a 3.5mm jack to RCA cord into the Analog to Digital Converter then the optical out of the converter into the soundbar.
These converters can be a little hit or miss with my experience so look around to find the one with the best review. I find monoprices stuff is pretty good. If it doesn’t work maybe try a little more expensive and reliable one.


If you already have a 3.5 you can find an adapter online for 3.5mm female to male RCA
Which is this

all of your gear is powered?

Ok, then you're going to need 2 RCA male to male cables (example: http://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-feet-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00DI89I04/ref=lp_597546_1_9?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1453783555&sr=1-9) to run from each independent CDJ to the mixer.

Options:

1. Play directly off of USB drives. You won't have the ability to see waveforms but you're going to get very good at matching up tracks for mixing once you get the hang of it.
   
   
2. If you want to connect it to your macbook your best bet is to run DVS on it. To do that you're going to need a Rane SL2 box to run DVS. What this will do is help bridge between the CDJ and your computer through Serato.

If you don't have a pro studio, get the KRK 5's rather than the larger models. Be aware that the 5 and 6 lack a bit of bass response, but if you have another setup with a sub to test on you should be fine.

This was recommended to me as a good USB sound device to hook up a pair of monitors. I ordered one and it's currently in transit. It seems to be a good price and quality.

For cables, with this particular device, I got an RCA + 1/4 inch stereo cable. The RCA goes into the USB device's output, the 1/4 inch into the KRK's input. Balanced or unbalanced shouldn't matter if you aren't stretching cables beyond just a desk setup. Be aware that high-polling device, mainly mice, may cause noise if they get close to your cables though.

I know little about MIDI keyboards, but I've heard good things about Oxygen and Axiom. I'd say go with 49 keys.

Also, passing on advice here: When starting your system, turn your monitors on last, after your computer, with the volume on the back all the way down, then turn them up and use. When you are ready to shut down, turn the volume all the way down on the back and then power the monitors off first, then your computer. In other words, monitors are last on, and first off.

I've built a bunch! Those instructions are fine. Only thing I'd change is I'd use a round speaker terminal cup in step #14, rather than the square one they show in the picture. Something like this in other words. Just because it's easier to cut a round hole -- you can just use a round circle cutting bit in your drill. You can get them for as low as like $2ea on Amazon or elsewhere.

> Do I need an amplifier?

Something like a cheap Lepai is fine.

A "real" amp like this or this or a used home theater amp for $50 from Craigslist will more or less get the full 100% of performance from the Overnight Sensations at higher volumes. A small Class D amp like this is a good compromise IMHO.

All of those amps ought to sound the same at low volumes. For "desktop listening" where you're sitting a few feet away, the Lepai should get plenty loud.

> Do I need a digital to audio converter?

Probably not. With the possible exception of the Lepai, all the amps I linked to have a dual RCA audio input. The typical "red and white audio inputs" you've surely seen in many places. All you need is a basic headphone-to-RCA adapter like this, assuming your music playing thingy has a headphone jack.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105597-3-Feet-Premium-Stereo/dp/B0094A1F3S/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1483958406&sr=8-4&keywords=headphone+to+rca

Hmm so RCA phono in and 3.5mm jack out.. The speakers are amped and have a volume control. So you need a phono stage cause all turntables need them to get your analog audio to line level. I assume you're trying to save money so we won't get serious. This Pyle should do the job

https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Phono-Turntable-Preamp-Preamplifier/dp/B004HJ1TTQ

From the pyle you'll want an RCA Male to 3.5mm Female cable. This should do it.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Premium-Stereo-Female-Plated/dp/B003L14XTO

EDIT: OH looks like the Logitech speakers have an RCA input! So you don't need a converter. So this monoprice rca between the phono pre and the Logitech should work. Let me know if I'm wrong, cause if it doesn't have RCA input then you'll be going back to RCA to 3.5mm converter.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1-5ft-Premium-22AWG-Cable/dp/B003L1717K

If you need the RCA interconnect between the turntable and preamp.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CRA-202DJ-Ground-Stereo-Interconnect/dp/B000PO1H80

Personally I'd get a good integrated like a yamaha, that's more in the direction of best way and hook it up to some nice floorstander towers or bookshelf speakers like Klipsch, Elac, and so on.

would you happen to know what cable will I need to buy to connect my two jbls to the BIC America F12 when i buy it? Unless the BIC already comes with the cables necessary. My monitors will already be plugged in my motherboard via y splitter

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-HOS-CPR201-Dual/dp/B000068O16 - would a wire like that be sufficient? i heard something about one of my HOSA y splitter cables going into an RCA into the subwoofer or whatever.

and yeah...im pretty sure i would've honestly been happy with any of the purchases, wheter it be an a5+ or a JBL. after all...this is merely my entry into the audiophile world. in a future upgrade i'll probably spend at least a grand on speakers.

Well you've got a subwoofer, and an amplifier that isn't meant to work with a subwoofer, so that's the bulk of the problem.

The TV has a headphone and an optical out... the Headphone output you can use with a 3.5mm to stereo RCA cable, which is good... but The BasX S8 has line level in and out, but that's only going to work with one source, so no matter what there are going to be sacrifices made, here.

​

Here is my proposed method:

​

• This optical cable out from television ($9)
  
• To THIS DAC ($20)
  
• This Chromecast Audio ($35) (or you could use a bluetooth adapter to play your phone, with lower quality audio)
  
• Using THIS Cable plugged into Chromecast Audio and to DAC ($12)
  
• TWO Sets of THESE RCA Cables ($9 each), one from DAC to Subwoofer's LINE LEVEL IN, one from Subwoofers LINE LEVEL OUT, to Yamaha AMP input
  
  Total cost: $95
  
  But you'd need to run an aux cable/bluetooth/chromecast audio to have phone input on the yamaha anyway. Obviously if you have any of these cables you can save the money. RCA cables are pretty easy to find. So are optical cables.
  
  If music is more important to you than tv sound, you could run the optical cable to the chromecast and the 3.5mm rca to coaxial from the headphone output of your tv... your choice.
  
  ​
  
  The dac needs to exist because your amp lacks bass management and a subwoofer output.
  
  You will then use the subwoofer's crossovers to control the bass it receives and what it is sending out to the amplifier, and your Q100's will get the rest.
  
  ​
  
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  ​

the focusrite 2i2 doesnt have extra RCA outputs. Im using one of these to connect the two.

http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1394236955&sr=8-5&keywords=mediabridge

Im actually starting to like the amp in the chain. The midrange isnt as present but it still sounds relatively neutral. The vocals are a touch more forward and present. I think this is what the headphone is supposed to sound like. I changed my sourcc removing the audio interface and connected the ipod. It sounds the same as if the amp was connected. I think the amp connection allows the hd600 to sound "normal" and while connecting straight to the audio interface, it was enough power but not quite there. It still sounds pretty good either way. Cant complain, thank you everyone! I figured that if you use max volume on the audio interface when the amp is connected it sounds just fine.

The process is way less complicated than you think.

You didn't mention which model of those speakers you have, but it looks like they all have 1/4" mono inputs. To use those connections you'll need an 1/8" stereo mini plug to dual mono 1/4" plug cable (e.g. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HGM1D6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419459816&sr=8-1&dpPl=1&dpID=31EXSYIMpUL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40)

As for you computer outputs, you'll want to use the headphone or L/R channel jack (typically green and labeled with a headphone symbol). Configure your sound mixer software to output 2 channel stereo. There is also a good chance it will default to stereo output with something connected to the stereo output jack.

This is the best explanation I can give without more details about the specific equipment.

My headphones have adjustable volume. How would that compare to something like this though? https://www.amazon.com/Eeejumpe-inches-Stereo-Splitter-3-5mm-Adapter/dp/B0009JFF7A/ref=pd_rhf_dp_p_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=P2G1M8GC9K6E6WTK4MJC

Edit: Actually, scratch that. I'd prefer not having to keep switching the audio cables from the TV to headphones, so the Wii2HDMI converter with headphones that include an adjustable dial seems like the best solution. Appreciate the help!

I already said this on another post, BUT if you ask me, for the money and build quality you can't beat Schiit Audio.

Pick up a MAGNI "HEADPHONE AMP AND PREAMP" for $99, a MODI "DAC" for $99 - $249 for the multibit version. So between $198-and $348 you can have an outstanding smi-portable DAC and Headphone/Preamp.

You will need a set of RCA cables to connect the DAC to the Headphone amp. As for connecting your smartphone you will need this USB 2.0 OTG Cable On The Go Adapter and then you will then need to connect that to a USB A-B Cable. Plug the "B" end of the USB A-B cable into the Dac. Additionally you could have skipped the DAC altogether and ran a RCA-to-3.5 cable right into the back of the headphone amp. But if you are aiming to take advantage of the HiFi/master audio I would recommend you use the DAC method. Connecting your laptop is just as easy and you can just run the USB A-B cable into the DAC. Or, if your computer has an optical audio output you could use a Toslink cable to connect direct into the DAC.

your all set man. get after it.

As others have said, simply search Amazon for "Bluetooth Receiver" and pick one you like in a price range you can afford. You will find hundreds of them.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=bluetooth+receiver&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

And then using, most likely, RCA-RCA cable of the appropriate length, connect the Bluetooth Adapter to the CD Input on the Amp, and logically select CD on the front panels source selector of the Amp.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-2-Male-RCA-Audio-Cable/dp/B01D5H8P0G/

Though there are many similar RCA-RCA Cables to choose from -

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=RCA+cable&i=electronics&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

You would prefer to have a Bluetooth Adapter that supports version 4.0 or higher, and that has the APT-X or APT-X HD feature.

The ESINKEN and the LOGITECH look pretty much identical, check the specs, but likely either one will do, both about $22 -

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Bluetooth-Audio-Adapter-Streaming/dp/B00IQBSW28/

https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Adapter-Streaming-Wireless-Speakers/dp/B016NUTG5K/

Range on the above is pretty much standard at 30ft to 50ft line-of-sight.

There are better Bluetooth Devices, but they cost a bit more money -

https://www.amazon.com/Avantree-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Certified/dp/B01H6I3YGK/

https://www.amazon.com/Avantree-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Simultaneously/dp/B07BQYYDNJ/

Again, how far do you want to take it, because there are Bluetooth Devices that can go well above $100.

You could manage in $1000 if you buy used and have a little patience. I would say go for floorstanders (like this one) + stereo receivers if you have the space. Otherwise, there are also excellent bookshelves like Mission 731i or Wharfedale Diamonds that will not make a huge dent in your budget. As compared to floorstanders, bookshelves will not be able to give you a good bass response (frankly, I am quite satisfied with my bookshelves) but they save a lot of space. Couple them with a set of good amps (or used stereo receivers from Yamaha/Denon/Kenwood) and place them on stands. You could also add a subwoofer later, if you want to. You can connect your Chromecast device to the amplifiers using a 3.5mm -> RCA connector.

I would get a DAC for it, but to go straight to the computer you can simply get something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6.

As for volume control, I leave the volume on the back at around 12 o clock and just leave it there while just controlling my windows volume.

You can get a volume controller for your speakers that look like this: http://www.tcelectronic.com/level-pilot/ this will need some different cables.

OR you can get a volume controller for you computer audio like this: http://griffintechnology.com/support/powermate

Why not the LSR305's? Bx5's are still a fine choice though. I was satisfied with them until I upgraded.

Alright thanks for replying! Would like to clarify that I'm using this only for consuming music or movies on my PC, not producing/editing music. Would you recommend the Solo too in this case?

​

What would be the advantages of getting the DAC you've recommended VS plugging directly into my PC (with Creative® Sound Core 3D chip on motherboard)?? With these cables for example https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6?pldnSite=1

​

Would there be less hissing/noise using external DAC? And in terms of sound quality, does it make a difference?

I've always used the more old school route of passive speakers and receivers or separate amp/preamps, so I'm not expert on this, but I think a cable with 2 male 1/4" TS or XLR to a 3.5mm TRS would do it. like this though it appears out of stock right now. If the sound card in your computer isn't great, there are lots of recommendations on here about pretty reasonable DACs to get that could help in that regard.

These are active speakers, meaning they are each powered by an amp in the speaker cabinet. Traditionally, most speakers are passive, so you need an external amp to get any sound out of them. A receiver is just an amp with other features added, to put it in the most simple terms possible.

this

or

this

I'd also recommend the MDR-V6 if you can find it on sale.

Those are good choices for $50. Unfortunately you cannot plug headphones into the xbox 360 cotroller, only the xbox one. The cheapest way to connect them is to use this. You will have to plug in the audio cables to this connector and then plug your headphones into the other end.

This wont work if your friend only has an hdmi cable, there is another way to connect them but you will have to spend another $50 for an adapter. Still I bet your friend would appreciate a nice pair of headphones that they can use with all other devices.

/u/sb0k has some really good info!

To add to that... Something like a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 would work great. It even comes with software (Pro Tools and Ableton) that would work just fine. You will need 2 RCA to 1/4" TS cables to connect the tape deck to the interface. The interface comes with the USB needed to connect to the computer. The software will recognize the inputs of the interface when you go to record. You will need to use the 2 inputs for stereo audio (L+R=2).

The interface is capable or recording at over 3x the resolution of CD audio. This will be more than you would ever need in terms of file quality. The actual sound quality will be dictated by whatever tape deck you find. But for the most part, you shouldn't have a problem finding something that will work well.

Meh... Both 70 and 50 bucks as suggested in comments is a lot.

Buy something like this, connect the classical (not HDMI one) cord to PS3, connect audio cinches with that converter and plug any headphones without microphone you can find (I use ones that cost like 10 bucks). You need to select audio output to the regular cable, not HDMI, in the PS3 menu but that's a piece of cake ;).

I'm really surprised at how terrible advice you guyz are giving him. I mean, 40-50 bucks just to use headphones on PS3? It's ok if he wants to invest 40-50 bucks but if he wants it to be as cheap as possible, this is a very easy solution.

Edit: Now, you will need both RCA (cinches) females and headphone jack female. I can't find this option on amazon at the moment but you can do with female cinches and male jack as long as you buy female-female jack connector.

A KVM is possible, but the big advantage of a KVM is that it not only allows you to share a screen across two sources, but also an attached keyboard and mouse. Unless you intend to use a keyboard and a mouse with your Switch, I'd go for a far less expensive, 2-port HDMI switch. That's all you need if you're only concerned about video. Plus, I'd argue it has more future utility. It'll be smaller, because it has less ports and the ports it has are smaller. You could bring it with you when you travel and hook multiple things up to HDTV's at hotels or friends' places. Plus, most newer displays have HDMI ports. Buying a DVI KVM (or even a DVI-only video switcher) is going to be more expensive and clunkier.

Here's an example of stuff that would work. I am not endorsing these products at all, I'm just picking the first well-reviewed looking hit from my search results (on Amazon):

search terms: "2-port HDMI switch"

looks good: DotStone HDMI Switch Bi-Direction only $8.. You won't get anywhere near that with a KVM.

and then, with search terms "HDMI to dvi", you could probably use 1 or 2 of either these:

HDMI to DVI (cable)

or these HDMI to DVI (adapter)

If you have a ton of extra hdmi and/or dvi cables, you might prefer the adapter, otherwise you could use it on its own in cable-form. Keep in mind that in a typical setup, the Switch's audio is going through the HDMI cable as well, and whether you used a HDMI switch or a DVI KVM/switch, the connection to your monitor is going to have to terminate in DVI, and that DVI won't carry the audio. Does your monitor even have speakers? Even if it did, you most likely won't get any audio over DVI. I haven't tested this myself, but I just did a little research and found you can use the headphone jack on the Switch, while docked, to get it's audio, so depending on what's going to be playing your sound, you might need one or more things from this list:

stereo miniplug cable (male to male) - for going from Switch to portable speakers or anything with a line-in

miniplug couplers - handy if you need to plug the above into another male cable

miniplug to RCA adapter cable - for going from the Switch to a stereo system or similar

​

​

Here's the best way to handle this. I'm making assumptions that you have a smartphone and the RCA jacks in your car's armrest.

Get the following.

• a wired to bluetooth transmitter
  
• a usb car charge port
  
• 3.5mm to rca jack cable (as short as possible)
  
• a cd player mount for your phone
  
  Take the 3.5->RCA cord and plug the RCA ends into the aux jack inside the armrest. Put the USB charger in the 12v socket that's also in the armrest. Take the bluetooth transmitter plug in the power (with the supplied micro USB to normal USB cord) and plug in the 3.5 end of the RCA cord to the jack on the transmitter.
  
  Once the car is on and the transmitter is powered up, pair your phone to the transmitter per the instructions that came with it. After its paired, put all the wires and the transmitter in the armrest and forget about it. You'll never have to deal with it again unless something goes wrong.
  
  Now take the CD player car mount, and turn it so it's horizontal. Put your phone in it and adjust the sides to make sure it doesn't slide out. Switch your car audio system to AUX and leave it there. The only downside is you can't control the audio from the steering wheel. The only thing you can do is adjust the volume.
  
  Now you have an always updated nav system that has guidance and the ability to listen to all your music via the car stereo. I wouldn't try any other BT transmitter. It's the key to the whole deal and I know that one works. The rest of the stuff is universal and pretty generic. You may have some/most of them already. You can really shop around for the USB charger, RCA cable and CD player mount and get the cost down more. The whole setup should be around $75 or less.
  
  This is by far the most effective, economical way to get what you want. There isn't really a way to update or modernize the stock equipment outside of buying a new car. I'm pretty sure that's by design.
  

Amazon dropped the ball on the Dot.

1. You can hook it up to your Yamaha, but the 3.5mm jack outputs analog only - meaning it uses whatever cheap DAC (digital-analog converter) the $50 Dot has rather than the much better one in your dedicated AV receiver. You'll need a 3.5mm to RCA stereo cable to do this (3.5mm jack plugs into Echo, the L and R RCA jacks into receiver's Audio In). Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Ugreen-Plated-Auxiliary-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B00LM2Y2U4/
   
   
2. Or Bluetooth to send the digital signal to your YBA-11 bluetooth receiver (hooked up to receiver via digital coaxial IN), but Bluetooth is lossy compression and further degrades the quality of whatever you're playing (which is already likely lossy since you'll be streaming). Also a bummer it doesn't at least support Bluetooth AptX. Your Yahama YBA-11 bluetooth does support AptX, but Echo does not.
   
   Just get a cheaper Chromecast Audio - it supports both analog(using 3.5mm or RCA and it's internal DAC like the Dot)... plus a digital out using S/PDIF - you'd connect it to the Optical Digital In connector on your AV receiver with a cable like this: https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-TOSLINK-Optical-Digital-Audio/dp/B00GZQWLF0/
   

i would consider looking into a new cartridge for the phonograph, i'm sure the needle is super old.

i believe that is a wear part for record players? if you can't tell i'm not an expert :)

and possibly spending the money to have it cleaned and balanced(?) i took my folks' old record player to a music shop and it was like $50 to replace some belts and match up the balance on the turn table. seemed to really help.

-

if your receiver is already sounding poorly, i'd definitely spend the $30 on something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/GOgroove-Turntable-Preamp-Preamplifier-Adapter/dp/B00WNLIHJA/

then you only need a direct cable to plug the preamp into your sound card.

Yup.

these are my favorite for hand held PO noodling since they keep the cable neat cooked up like that. Takes up less room than a straight 3’ cable would.

And these guys are great for a nice solid desktop setup.

Depending on how you record or mix the output, you may want to pickup a 3.5mm to 1/4” breakout cable to deal with any stereo/balancing issues you might encounter.

I had some serious trouble finding a back-facing shot, and the specifications on tascam's website arent very specific, but according to this image: http://forum.ixbt.com/post.cgi?id=attach:90:1520:0:1 it looks like a RCA output (I have one on my behringer) and if so, the cheapest would be something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR-203-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O18 I got a similar product at guitar center and it works fine. There are also boxes you can get to balance the signal from the unbalanced RCA, but if you're on a budget, it should be fine.

Edit: also. This http://estaticos2.milanuncios.com/fg/1975/16/otros-instrumentos-musicales/Tarjeta-sonido-TASCAM-US-144-197516878_4.jpg definitely looks like an RCA

Ha, I didn't mean to scare you off. They're perfectly fine for everything. Recording is just their primary use. They sound incredible with anything you throw at them!

If that's all you're doing, ignore my original post and just get an 1/8" to RCA Red/White splitter and you're golden. https://www.amazon.com/Ugreen-Plated-Auxiliary-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B00LM2Y2U4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1483650927&sr=8-3&keywords=3.5mm+to+rca

It'll still sound amazing regardless.

If you still think you messed up, look into the Klipsch Promedia 2.1's. Amazing set of speakers with enough bass to piss off your neighbors, and at a fraction of the cost of the KRK's. It's actually what I sold my KRK's for, because I wasn't doing as much music stuff, haha.

NP! You’ll want something like this to convert from RCA to 3.5

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_thZTCb68T52MS

As far as recording, AudioShare seems to be the best. And it supports copy paste into into apps like GarageBand and Gadget

No problem. Actually now I've looked at the manual for your sub, I think I have a handle on what you need to do.

Here's a copy of the sub's manual. As you can see from the diagram, the single socket on the back of there is an output, not an input. You need to plug your Bose speakers into that with the standard lead, no adaptors needed.

To get the signal from the Scarlett to the subwoofer is a little trickier. You'll need a "2 x mono RCA to 3.5mm stereo socket" adapter. Here's one on Amazon - they may have one at Best Buy, but I couldn't find one with a quick search.

You plug the two RCA plugs from that adaptor into unbalanced outputs 1 + 2 on the back of the Scarlett. Then you take the lead from the sub (the one coming out of the little doohickey with the power switch and volume knob on it, which is attached to the sub - you can see it in the diagram in the manual) and plug it into the 3.5mm jack socket on the adapter.

I'm pretty sure that'll do the trick. Good luck!

A2DP is the name for steaming stereo Bluetooth audio. Android is setup as a sender of audio, not a receiver.

Your best bet would be to buy an A2DP receiver (like $50) and hook that up to your speaker system. They'll probably come with a 3.5mm jack but you can change that to RCA audio (the red/white plugs) with an adapter. You'll also want to get one that uses a power cord (usually usb) instead of batteries. I had a setup like this in my car, it worked great, like magic.

For instance:

A2PD Receiver (This is what I used, don't worry about the branding =P)

Mini USB power cord

3.5mm to RCA Audio Adapter (If you need it)

Total is ~$50

Well, first things first. Your speakers can already take RCA inputs, so you should just be able to plug in the record player (if it has a preamp built in), your CD player, or your iPod into the RCA input. If you don't want to plug and unplug the RCA every time, get something like this, which also lets you do centralized volume control.

Get a sub like this, and hook up an RCA splitter like this or this so that your source (whether it's the SYS above or something else) is running into both the subwoofer and the speakers.

Note: you don't want to wire it so that the subwoofer and the source are running into the speakers. That means your subwoofer won't be doing anything. The "one" end goes to your source, the "two" end goes to subwoofer and speakers.

Those speakers are fine, and it's almost always better to have one good setup than two mediocre setups.

Final proposed setup: your sources --> Schiit SYS ($50) --> splitter ($10)--> PSW10 ($100) + Resolv A5.

That makes sense, thanks for breaking it down. Would there be a way to handle control of the volume with that? For example, would there be a device I could put between the PC and the sub that would control the overall volume? Or is it the case where each speaker/sub has their own volume control that I present on the device, then I use the software volume on the computer to control it?

EDIT:

So It would be:

• PC (3.5mm->RCA) -> Sub -> RCA to 1/4" TRS -> LSR305's
  
  so is it possible somewhere is there to put a volume knob to control everything or is it best to regulate that from the PC?
  
  That build takes the price to around $600 ish probably after the cables.
  
  I have heard of a build that used something like the Polk Audio PSW10 + Micca's. Is that a viable build I could do for less, or would the price of what connects the two bring the total cost of the system into a similar price bracket?
  
  Also do the JBL's have both a sub and tweeter in them each already? Is a separate sub just needed for very specific use cases? If that is the case, I may just be fine with that already. Thanks again?

What a great boombox for audio in/out options! I take it your laptop has a mic/line-in port? If so, my recommendation is to first get yourself two 1/8" stereo-to-dual RCA cables (like these, brand not important).

1. Connect a cable from your headphone jack on the laptop to RCA/line-in on the RX-5090, and a cable from the RCA line-out back to your laptop’s line-in port.
   
2. Set up a new stereo recording track in your DAW set to line in.
   
3. Pop a cassette in that boom box and hit record
   
4. Start recording to that track in your DAW
   
5. Start playback of one of your songs from your laptop (if you’ve made a new stereo track in your existing song session, playback will probably start automatically while recording)
   
6. At this point the audio should go from your laptop’s headphone port -> line in of the 5090 -> cassette -> 5090 line out -> laptop line-in -> DAW, and you’ll end up with a “print” of the audio path via the tape deck. This is exactly how outboard audio effects work.
   
   Rinse and repeat! Hope that helps, I’m happy to clarify more if needed.

The LSR305's can be a bit tricky to get the best out of them. The ideal cheap way to connect them is to use a cheap DAC like this plugged into your USB on the PC, and then a cable like this going from the DAC to the speakers.

Otherwise, you can use a cable like this and go straight from your PC to the speakers. Just know that on-board audio from PC's tend to have noisy analog connections. If something is playing it probably wont be noticeable, but expect a little more hiss/noise this route. A little might be unavoidable, do to the high power built in amplifier.

Try not to let all this scare you off though, they really are a fantastic desktop setup.

That sounds like a great setup to me. The DDJ-SB is fast becoming one of the main recommendations for those looking to go the Serato/Pioneer route and Sennheiser makes fantastic headphones with their iconic HD-25s being essentially an industry standard... While I've never used the HD6s I've seen good reviews and that blue is mighty sexy... :D

While computer speakers aren't the best for DJing they're better than nothing for practice at home. You'll need an adapter to go from the RCA master out on the DDJ-SB to the 1/8" TRS connector of the speakers though... This: http://www.amazon.ca/30S1-01260-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-Connector/dp/B000I23TTE

(You will of course also need a laptop or computer.)

Cooper

In seriousness:

BlueJeans is good if you value performance and well made, they aren’t nice looking though, very industrial. I would be weary of any power cords that aren’t UL Listed or similar.

I’ve gotten some amazing RCA connectors off eBay for <$10 (sold out of 1m, here’s 3m), the turbine-style connector actually look like gold, unlike these which I also own, they look like plain brass in real life.

I use GearIT white-braided speaker cables, not amazing build-quality, but for <$50 I’m satisfied. I’m surprised that even for <$150/pair most companies are using plain looking banana plugs (example: 1, 2, and 3). I want some WBT knock-offs, like these.

There are some fancy looking optical cables for cheap, like so.

To start you need an integrated amplifier. Here's the one recommended in the purchase help thread. This unit will provide power to the speakers so they can play back audio.

Next you need a cable that runs from your phone's headphone jack (assuming it has one) to the amp. Here you go.

Now you need to connect the amp to the speakers. Since you have a sub, you will run speaker cable from the amp to the sub, and then from the sub to each of the speakers. Here's 50 ft of speaker cable which should be more than enough to get the job done. You'll also need a wire stripper tool to remove the casing at each of the cabling, here you go. Would also recommend some banana plugs to make things easier but they aren't required.

This gets you live audio to your speakers. Had you done some research ahead of time you probably would have landed on buying active speakers instead, which would have saved you the need for all of this equipment except the $7 audio cable.

I don't actually have one of these subs, but I'm 99% sure you will not be able to use the sub to power the speaker outputs. The speaker level inputs/outputs are used to get a signal to the sub after it has already gone through an amplifier, and the sub's built-in amplifier is only used to power itself. You can definitely still use the sub by getting an adapter cable to run from the TVs 3.5mm output to the subs RCA Line In, but you will need to get some sort of amp/receiver for the bookshelf speakers. It doesn't have to be fancy, I've used small cheap amplifiers to power speakers and while it wasn't audiophile quality, it was definitely better than the TV speakers.

3.5mm to RCA cable

Small Amplifier I've used before

Hello, I am not really sure what type of amplifier I should purchase for beginner setup. I recently purchased a Micca MB42X for $50. I plan on purchasing another speaker as well. I need help on what type of amplifier I need to buy, along with, what wires I should purchase as well. I have allotted roughly $80 towards the budget of the amplifier. I plan on using Chromecast audio to stream music.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HGM1D6 is this what I need to purchase to make the Chromecast compatible with an amplifier?

From my research, the SMSL SA-60 appears to be a good amplifier to purchase with these speakers.

Also, what speaker wire should I purchase?

Any advice or tips are appreciated, thanks.

Before spending the $$ on a new sound card, try getting a better cable set up going. you want to limit the amount of connections being made as possible. in your case, you have the white cable being put through an adaptor, and the red cable being put through 2 adapters. Something like this should do the trick

Another thing you want to make sure to take care of is that you keep all audio signal cables away from any power cables. Audio cables will very often pick up external interference from nearby power cables.

lastly, you could also try is to adjust either the line in volume in audacity and the aux out on your piano.
Often times, having the gain set too high on one of these will cause a bit of noise because of excess interference from internal amplifiers and such.

In the end though, if you're recording into a laptop, there will often be interference leaking through due to the close proximity of components.

No, this old video card will use the regular PCI on your motherboard. The description says your motherboard has the appropriate slot. This PCI video card has a yellow RCA video out. Just combine it with one of these 3.5mm to RCA audio converters and you're got all three. That video card doesn't work with Windows 7, by the way. Windows XP 32-bit would be best. You can get Linux to work with it, but it's extra work. Nice retro feel.

Are you sure you don't want to buy a new LCD TV with HDMI? I guess CRTs are better for viewing older non-widescreen TV shows.

Do you have any equipment already? What outputs do you have on your computer?

If you just have a 3.5mm headphone jack, you can use some cords like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/

It may not work well, depending on how how loud (static-y) your pc is. But it will work.

The next level up would be to get an audio interface; the Scarlett Focusrite is a popular brand for this. This interface hooks up to your PC through USB, and has outputs that are designed for monitors like the 305P.

I'm not sure if you know, but this JBL is an active studio monitor. It's main use is for people mixing music, who want a consistent sound. Some people just use it to listen to music, but many consider passive speakers to be better for home use. Have you looked at your options?

If you get passive bookshelf speakers, you'd need an amp. For your computer (and to save space), a powered monitor would work well (meaning the amp is built into the speaker, itself). They don't get much better than this for the price, $410 a pair http://www.amazon.com/JBL-Professional-LSR308-Studio-Monitor/dp/B00E8CEW7I ; they perform well, well above their price range and you don't need to buy another amplifier. Hook them up with either of these cables: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CYX-402M-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068OEO or http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6
A DAC isn't absolutely necessary unless you're getting noise out of your computer's aux port and/or unhappy with its sound in general. Try it and see if you need a DAC.

As for spending more, you can always spend more in the world of speakers. For a computer/nearfield setup, you don't get much better than the KEF LS50 for $1500 a pair: http://www.amazon.com/KEF-LS50-Mini-Monitor-Gloss/dp/B00EPDMDZ8

However it lacks some low end and it needs an amp, so be prepared to spend more.

My favorite speaker at the moment is the Ascend Sierra 2: http://www.ascendacoustics.com/pages/products/speakers/SRM2/srm2.html They are simply amazing; ribbon tweeters are the real deal and its RAAL ribbon tweeter is arguably the best thing out there in its price range.

Hey, so you found a solution, but for reference, if I understood your question, an amplifier is "dumb" it gets a signal, then amplifies (makes it stronger/louder) and sends it to the speaker. It doesn't know whether something is a surround channel, a center channel, front, whatever. So it seems like you set your soundcard to output rear left and rear right from different jacks. Well you connect the rear left to the left one of the amp and the rear right to the right one of the amp and the amp would send that out to the left and right speaker respectively. Remember an amplifier on its own is "dumb". Heck, you could connect the left to the right and the right to the left and swap the speakers around. It wouldn't know, it wouldn't care.  (A receiver on the other hand is actually a combination of video and audio processing, so it decodes Dolby Digital or DTS into channels, DAC so it converts digital audio bits into analogue, pre-amplifier and amplifier all rolled into one with a few other things too, if you ignore all the digital bits and connect your sound card to the RCA ins of a receiver and speakers to the speaker posts you'd be bypassing the DAC portion and treating your receiver as an pre-amp plus amp or just an amp depending on the mode... you can google about that).

​

Finally, don't know if you knew this, but soundcards normally output two channels per jack, it looks like you've set yours up to output rear left and rear right seperately but you could in future just use a 3.5mm stereo to dual RCA cable to connect both channels to a single amplifier. White goes to left, red goes to right. Only thing I haven't figured out is the center/sub channel, is red the center and white the sub or vice versa. But trial and error would solve that.

​

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2?aaxitk=lN-oZWuITIRWzalKh7rpjg

idk about the PYST cable. how long is it? I bought this for my setup and it works great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L1717K/

And yes the valhalla 2 is a great pair with the 650

edit: oh and I just looked. At 6 inches I don't think the Schiit PYST cable would reach. I can take a pic of my setup when I get home so you can see what the spacing is like if you want.

Hi all,

I'm looking for some cartridge assistance/general information on a first TT I am purchasing as an x-mas gift for my girlfriend (she's rad).

I've read all the links and guides and have finally settled on two choices for a new TT: the Fluance RT83

or the Denon DP-300F

The Denon DP-300F is on sale for black Friday currently so I am leaning towards it. That being said, I would like to replace the cartridge on it with a Ortofon 2M Red. How difficult would it be for someone completely new to TT's like myself to replace the cartridge? Would I be better off purchasing it already upgraded from another source and just pay the difference for the work and peace of mind that it is done correctly: https://www.turntablelab.com/products/denon-dp-300f-turntable-ortofon-2m-red-upgrade

Also, as a side note, I am looking at pairing both with an active speaker (I'll upgrade and do things the right way as I get more funds--ugh!). And if I go with RT83 I'll pick up a Schiit Mani pre-amp as well. To hook everything up, all I'll need is two pairs of RCA cables for connecting the TT to the pre-amp and then another pair to connect pre-amp to speakers correct? I would hate to get everything all packaged together for x-mas and then figure out I didn't even get the right cables to hook this bad boy up.

Cheers

Depends on what your budget is. I'd suggest, within your budget, a Modi Multibit + Magni Uber and you'll have yourself equipment that can power future headphones. If not, you can't go wrong with a Modi 2 + Magni 2 Uber and it's one of the best bang for your buck stack. It'll be a nice improvement over your motherboard's sound card which can carry noise from your video card/power supply/fans.

You'll have to purchase a USB A to B cable as well as as an RCA male to male cable.

USB A to B I purchased:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH11KIK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

RCA Cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L1717K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can also purchase the 6" PYST cable from Schiit for $20. -_-

Thank you for your response.
I was just considering wireless just so I could use it in my computer and in any other activity (outside activity as an example).

I will start reading about all you mentioned on the MB42X vs PB42X to see which one suits me the best, right now my knowledge on all the options is limited. If I wanted to upgrade speakers down the line, would the M50 amp still do the job for bigger speakers or it is most likely that I would need to change that as well?

If I were to get the MB42X and the Muse M50 amp, an RCA to 3.5mm cable like this will be required, right?
Thanks a lot!

If you can increase your budget a bit, buy two of these JBL LSR305 for $198 shipped on sale. Excellent sound quality and really don't need a subwoofer to get decent bass.
http://www.markertek.com/product/jbl-lsr305/jbl-lsr305-5-inch-two-way-powered-studio-monitor-each
They are powered so you don't need to buy a receiver of amp. Just need cables, cheapest route but you might have some noise issues from the computer's digital-to-analog converter (DAC): https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=pd_bxgy_MI_img_y If that happens, an audio interface likely would solve it and probably improve sound quality over your computer's DAC (plus you would have easy to access volume control), e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA222-BEHRINGER-U-CONTROL/dp/B0023BYDHK

Depending on your budget it could go from $60 for a pair of decent speakers, upwards to $1000 for a single speaker.

I would start here This is a good guide to speakers.

The speakers that I personally use are the Dayton Audio B652

As for a mini amp, then I use an Audioengine N22 for my stuff, which I connect from the laptop using a simple 3.5mm to Stereo RCA cable

If you're going directly to a subwoofer (which is probably a better option since you're also watching movies and you don't need the extra amp) then you'd still need that same y cable, but you'd be wiring it differently. The best sub that matches price with capability is probably made by Hsuresearch, Dayton Audio, and SVS.

There are many more brands out there, and it goes well into a deep hole.

Exactly. A proper stereo is the solution here. Use a decent amp and speakers for the audio and pair it with an Echo Dot to control it, using the line out jack on the Dot to connect it to the amp.

If /u/Treas0n is looking for a good budget option, I'd highly recommend the Lepai amp + Dayton speaker setup. This setup is the go-to budget kit on /r/audiophile and would be plenty loud with really good sound quality. It's about $90 for the whole kit (+$30-$50 for an Echo Dot):

Lepai LP-2020TI Texas Instruments TPA3118 Hi-Fi Stereo Audio Mini Amplifier with Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071FJF4FF/ (don't go for this one anymore, grab a tripath version)

Kinter K2020A+ Limited Edition ORIGINAL Tripath TA2020-020 Class-T Hi-Fi Audio Mini Amplifier with 12V 5A Power Supply Black https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077Z7DBRT

Dayton Audio B652-AIR 6-1/2" 2-Way Bookshelf Speaker with AMT Tweeter Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NOA58RS/

AmazonBasics 16-Gauge Speaker Wire - 50 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LW0WDQ/

Monoprice 105597 3-Feet Premium Stereo Male to 2RCA Male 22AWG Cable - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0094A1F3S/

If the OP wants even bigger sound then add a powered sub for $100 more (you may want to double up on your 16ga speaker wire for connecting the subwoofer between the stereo speakers and the amp)

Polk Audio PSW10 10-Inch Powered Subwoofer (Single, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KVQBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IEFWBbD0GFQVW

If you can afford it, pick up one of these to go along with your SMSL, https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Sanskrit-Optical-Coaxial-Decoder/dp/B00SY9RBOM, then you'll have additionally a usb dac + rca out's, and then you can really get going.. you might also consider picking up https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10906&cs_id=1090602&p_id=9723&seq=1&format=2 which will help fill in your little audio experience. takes a line-in & line-out back into your amp, and then you got sub-base as well. I love these rca cables, they sound amazing, https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-2-Male-RCA-Audio-Cable/dp/B01D5H8P0G/

Well, you only have optical audio out, i don't know if your TV's remote controls the volume of this output or not, but hopefully it does. what you need is a DAC for optical audio, something like the Fiio D3 would probably do just fine (and could be powered by one of the USB ports on the TV) then you just need a pair of RCA to TRS cables like this connecting the a5+ would be pretty much the same, just use normal RCA cables instead of RCA to TRS

Hey man thanks again for all the help!

1. So if the sound goes to my headphones as an analogue sound, there will be hissing, etc., right? If so, is there any way to prevent this? For example, are there audio interfaces designed for what I'm trying to do? Ones with HDMI inputs and optical inputs, that way the sound is digital, instead of analogue?
   
   
2. And say I used the Audient iD14, I'm looking at it now, and would that mean I'd need something like this, which, one end would plug into my headphone jack on my monitor, and the other 2 ends would split the left and right channel, plugging into the Audient? That would give me stereo and not mono, correct?
   
   My Monitor is a BenQ RL2755HM
   
   If possible, I'd like to avoid having all of the audio output from my controller.
   
   Again, you're the only person who has knowledge of this stuff that has replied to my post, so I appreciate all of your help!
   

Hi,
I have Edifier R1280T speakers which have 2 sets of RCA Inputs.

I have 3 sources of audio: a turntable, a chromecast audio, and a Roland Quad-Capture.

I'm wondering how I can connect all three sources to the two inputs (2 white, 2 red) on my speakers. I tried RCA Male to Dual RCA Female but the sound was very quiet.

Would RCA piggyback cable work or would I just have the same issue?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

Those are passive speakers. On the wall are terminals for the speakers. Each pair is for one speaker. To use these with your TV you will need some kind of amplifier/receiver. You can also use a stereo amplifier if you use only the left and right speakers. If your TV has a headphone jack, you can get good results with a very simple, inexpensive amplifier like this and a cable like this. Using the headphone jack will let the TV remote control the volume.

You can test the speakers by just tapping a regular old 9-volt battery to the terminals. When you tap it the speaker will make a loud pop. Don't CONNECT the battery, just tap it momentarily on the terminals.

Have fun!

Sorry if this is a silly question but would upgrading the Modi just allow it to do the same thing as my current modi but also act as a pre amp? Can you recommend a decent set of speaker stands?

I ordered the pre amp so we got that down.
Now I just want to make sure I've got it straight.
I need these cables for the speakers and these cables for the pre amp

One last question is how do I connect the stack to each other as the Modi 2 and Magni 2 only have one spot where you can plug in RCA cables and they run into each other. Would I just unplug the amp when I want to use my speakers?

Wow, you are a library of knowledge, thank you very much for helping me out. I just found the JVC at a yard sale for 5$ and couldn't pass it up especially since I was looking for an amp that had a phono input.

Some more follow up questions:

> Yes. An RCA splitter like this would work: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YRA-104-Dual-RCAF-Y-Cable/dp/B000068O4Y/

So I would need to get four of the RCA-to-Dual RCAF, two for the line out on the Yamaha (left and right) and two for the Tape-1 Rec on the JVC, correct?



>On your JVC, when you select Phono as your input, and TAPE MONITOR enabled, the RIAA-equalized and volume controlled signal will get sent to the Tape Out jacks, so you could send that to the Yamaha only (using the JVC essentially as a phono pre-amp), or split the Tape Out and send the signal also back to the JVC for amplification and have the sound come out of both amplifiers and all four speakers at once.

I'm still not 100% sure I completely understand the function of Tape Out (which I assume is the 'Rec' input on Tape-1?) So on the front of the JVC I'm having a little trouble understanding all the buttons. If I select Phono input and press the Tape-1 button and the Tape-1 'Rec' (I assume this is the same as 'out') split so that it goes to both the Yamaha and back into the Tape-1 'Play' (I assume this is the same as 'in') then I will be playing the phono through both amplifiers and both amplifiers will have the same adjustments made to the signal (the one from the phono input), however, they will amplify them differently (depending on the volume level of each amplifier, correct?)

Is the 'TAPE MONITOR' you refer to the same as the Tape-1 button on the front of the JVC?

If I switch on Tape-1 then there will be no output to the speakers without reconnecting the Tape Rec to the Tape Play, correct? This is why some receivers have the bridge you were referring to?

What do the buttons 'SUBSONIC FILTER' and 'SEA REC' do? Also what does the EXT-NR DUBB under the Tape 1 and Tape 2 buttons mean?

I don't expect you to know this one but I'll try anyways, any idea on the difficulty of the repair or the type of bulbs of the light bulbs behind the little wattage meters on the front of the JVC that light up as little blue circles? Both seem to be busted, but I think they look really neat lit up.

Again, thank you for letting me utilize your obvious well-versed brain

Ahhhh, I see what you mean. In that case, you should be totally fine if you pick up an RCA to 3.5mm converter, like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1511914603&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm&psc=1

So if you did pick up an AT LP5, you should be able to switch on the TT preamp, and run that cable straight from the TT to your speakers. I hope that helps! :-)

Ok, I think I got this.

-

1. So, I plug PC to Modi, how it is now.
   
2. Modi to Mixer via RCA male to male in input 1.
   
3. Monitor line out to Mixer via RCA to 3.5mm in input 2.
   
4. Magni to Mixer via RCA male to male in output.
   
5. Headphones into Magni, how it is now.
   
   So, it should look like this? My question is, will this play Switch and PS4 audio? They already play through monitor speakers, so is it as easy as putting 3.5mm to RCA in monitor to Mixer or do they each individually need to go to the Mixer?
   
   Also, would a ground loop like this work if plugged into the monitor and then have the 3.5mm to RCA plugged into this to eliminate buzzing noise?

First, to connect the amp to the PC, you'll need a 3.5mm to RCA adapter like this. Just plug the 3.5mm end into the output on your computer, and the RCA end into whichever input you like on the amp (they're all identical, just named so that you can remember what is what). Make sure to go white-to-white and red-to-red to get left and right correct.

Then you just need speaker wire from the amp outputs to each of your speakers. Just use either the A or the B outputs (they are the same). Again, make sure to go from the left output to the left speaker and the same for the right. Also, make sure that the negative terminal of the amp hooks up to the negative (black) terminal on the speakers, and the positive on the amp goes to the positive (red) on the speakers.

Finally, just use a reglar RCA cable to go from the "pre out" on the amp to the input of your subwoofer, again being sure to go red-to-red and white-to-white on both the amp and subwoofer ends.

You would probably want something like this RCA to headphone adapter then you can use any headphones you like.

I have a crappy pair of Behringer headphones I got with a practice amp kit I had bought early on in my guitar learnings, but here's some Sennheisers that look pretty nice.

Works with anything that has RCA audio out.

On a budget, get the SMSL SD793-II. https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-SD793-II-PCM1793-DIR9001-Amplifier/dp/B00A2QLPJM

Its a DAC+AMP combo with a warm signature. The PC will input via coaxial / optical depending on your sound card (recommend optical) to the back of the 793 and the headset will go into the headphone jack in the front. The back if you notice has a RCA R L output, that will go to your speaker. If your speaker only accepts 3.5mm then you need a RCA to 3.5mm cable. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8JW0/

This 793 for some reason output from both the headphone jack and rca jacks simultaneously (no delay), which normally shouldn't happen since plugging the headphone jack will disable the other output. But well, be glad! It works! In fact, I have the same setup that you are looking for haha. I actually connect the RCA to my TV soundbar so I don't have to get a separate desktop speaker!

that monitor has a headhphone jack, so you technically use something line this:

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6

and connect it to the 1/4 inputs on the speakers, but controlling the volume would be hard without going through the audio interface unless you can reach behind the speakers easily and adjust it every time

Getting a DAC to go from the optical out on the PS4 only would move were the signal comes out since the headphone jack on that monitor is doing the same thing effectively by making a analog out from the HDMI's signal.

If that monitor has volume controls , then just that cable I linked to the speakers should be fine depending on the quality of the DAC in the monitor though it might not be as good as you want so then looking to a dac might be better.

You're going to need a mixer, to take the audio from the microphones and the karaoke backing track and then put out the final version (also some people sing louder than others so you'll need to be able to adjust individual volumes).
This means you'll also need an amplifier, as most TV's don't have an audio in connection.
This means you'll also need speakers.

You could look at getting some decent amplified speakers, you only need one if you're doing this in a home.

Lastly, look into something like Karafun initially as the software. You can take out a 48 hour subscription for about £5 and then you have access to all their songs. Just read about no internet at farm, not even wireless data that you can tether via mobile phone?

So to recap, you need to purchase:

• Microphones (those KAMs will be fine)
  
• 2 XLR cables to connect microphones to mixer (two of these for instance http://www.amazon.co.uk/Stagg-High-Quality-Microphone-Cable/dp/B002YUAK54/)
  
• Mixer (only needs to be a small four channel one, something like this http://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-802-Input-Bus-Mixer/dp/B000J5XS3C/)
  
• Cable to connect audio out on laptop to the mixer (this needs to be a stereo 3.5mm connector to dual mono 1/4" connectors like this http://www.amazon.co.uk/HosaTech-CMP-159-3-5mm-Stereo-Breakout/dp/B005HGM1D6/)
  
• Either an amp + speakers, or, a powered speaker (something like this http://www.whybuynew.co.uk/speakers/qtx-sound-paj12a-paj-12a-active-speaker.htm)
  
• A cable to connect the mixer to the speaker, or amplifier, so a 1/4" to phono cable (make sure it's a long one http://www.amazon.co.uk/Stagg-STC3PCM-Twin-Phono-Cable/dp/B0030LWZDG/
  
• A long HDMI cable for your laptop (I'm assuming based on your post that the laptop has HDMI out)
  
• Software, look at Karafun, it's likely to do what you need and has all the songs
  
• Look at http://KaraokeDownloads.ca, it works out about £0.62 a song if you buy a 75 song credit pack from them
  
  Random question, I gather you're UK based, are you anywhere near London?

One of this would do:

• http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-Feet-3-5mm-Stereo-Cable/dp/B000V0G2C4/ref=sr_1_sc_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1395937607&sr=8-5-spell&keywords=3%2C5%22+y+adapter+chinch * http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Pro-PCBL43FT6-Stereo-Y-Cable-Adapter/dp/B004G87FLY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1395937304&sr=8-3&keywords=3%2C5%22+y+adapter Maybe spend a bit more for some higher quality, but even than it's about $20.
  
  If you want an external interface the 2i2 is a nice one and as you say it has two outputs. There are also some cheaper but decent quality interfaces. Tascam is a good brand to look for as well.