Reddit mentions: The best running boards & steps

Thanks for the info. I would really want to use it for generator, fuel, extra bs. I thought it would be wise to enclose it a certain amount for security and i have a feeling it's a big no-no to have a container of gas on the back of your vehicle, so to hide that as well. and i went the cheap route on the treads. lol. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0046CZKIA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I came up with a cheap DIY dead pedal solution that looks less flashy while working better for me (often wearing muddy boots!) than the aluminum one, and required no drilling through carpet or removal of trim. I bought a piece of heavy duty exterior black vinyl non-slip stair tread with a strong adhesive backing -- a pack with enough tread to make 4 pedals coats $17 on Amazon. I cut it with an x-acto knife exactly to fit the carpet above my mat, minus about a 1/2" border. I then backed it with heavy duty double sided carpet tape (which sticks really strong but comes off clean) so that one side of the tape was stuck to the original adhesive peel off backing on the tread, the other went on my freshly cleaned carpet. It has stayed solid for over a year and a half now through two winters, many vacuumings, and plenty of nasty weather and boot wearing. An advantage over aluminum style cover is you can cover the entire carpet area that's exposed, which since I often wear western boots with heels was necessary to protect the bottom carpet area above where the OEM mat ends (I had Husky liners that fully covered that area for the first year but they sucked in every way.)

It's solid black so it is basically invisible unless you look closely on the black carpet. It has a good deep tread pattern so your foot doesn't slip on it. And it cleans up easy. Took 20 minutes and a few bucks in materials. Looks like it came on the car. Less boy racer-looking than the aluminum. No drilling or pulling up carpet. Easy as pie to replace. Comes off (I checked at 3 months) clean as a whistle but hasn't shifted a bit in 15,000 miles.

ETA here is the tread I used. It's $17 for two treads. If you're careful that's four dead pedals.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004Y622

And here is the tape:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=is_s?k=Duck+Brand+392907

Nerf Bars

Bed cover

Both were really easy to instal and I'm really happy with how they look.

I got the bed cover on last night and we got an inch and a half of driving rain. The bed was totally dry except for one minuscule puddle in the corner of the bed nearest the cab on the drivers side and I think that's just because I didn't have it in perfectly square.

This is great feedback! According to my past experience, the weathertech bump step is the best protection for the bumper. Leaning towards this vs film.

I got these and love them. They've been great so far (~3 months).

Not sure what to suggest with the rattles, you just gotta chase them down. Did you swap struts already? On one vehicle I owned I installed KYB 'sport' struts and they brought out every rattle in the car. Gabriel (or Honda OEM) are a lot softer. Tires and inflation pressure can make a difference in terms of NVH.

On most Honda/Acuras the blower motor is easy to remove, just a cover panel and a few bolts. I bet there's an acorn of two inside the blower housing.

What I recommend for issues like your door rattle is some mastic butyl tape sealant. It's a rubbery sticky tape.

https://www.amazon.com/Sealant-PROMOTOR-Sealants-Installing-Windshield/dp/B07CTQ67X9/

You can get some products in the roofing dept at Home Depot that's like a cheaper dynamat:

https://www.homedepot.com/b/Building-Materials-Roofing-Gutters-Roofing-Roofing-Tools-Accessories/Roofing-Tape/N-5yc1vZc938Z1z0lp9y

The 'crunch' and vibration on acceleration could be an engine mount, however it could be lots of things like carboned-up EGR passages, need for a tune up, transmission needs service, etc.

Make sure you have no exhaust leaks and your air filter is snapped shut properly.

I got these from Amazon 2 and a half years ago when I got my 2017. They look decent, they are cheap, the install was pretty easy, and they have held up well. I was in the same boat as you plus a short wife. The only downside with them I could say is that it took me a while to get used to them being there so I would snag my foot on them sometimes.

Thanks, Traded the truck in recently though. Got them off Amazon for pretty cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/iBoard-Running-Boards-Silverado-Ext-Cab/dp/B00WTKMUWK/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1485465823&sr=8-13&keywords=Running+board+silverado

I've had these for about a year and I'm very happy with them. Not the same style as yours, but the Tyger brand is legitimate in my experience. Cheers.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AH5JBCU/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_P23jDb42Y6MXQ

Besides shovel and a recovery strap I recommend a traction mat like this as well. It works much better than floor mats, I just used it to get 2 cars out in a roll in a parking lot last week.

Yup, I woke up in the morning, sat down in front of my desk, looked at my keyboard, and it was like, "Ahhh~!" Angel's chorus. Feels good man.

About the butyl, I used this from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0167O6FMO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I still have a bunch left, probably enough for at least 5 more, so it's a buck something per keyboard. I forgot to mention, but it's sticky on both sides, so think of it like a hot potato; keep molding it into the case and don't hold onto to it for long or it'll stick to your fingers more than the case.

I wouldn't put it on the cab, but the front of the bed as close to the front or rear corner as possible (for strength; the corner is also where you'd want a rooftop rack), and back it with a steel plate of some sort to spread out the load. Alternatively, there's wheel steps that kinda just nest atop a wheel that you could throw on there just when climbing up.

>Hell I'm even thinking of laying a piece of plywood across the engine compartment so I can lay on it for better access.


I did it with a blanket in my Bronco.

...but these look nice.

Spyper Rock Rails

Check these out, they double as a step and rock rails. they are frame mounted, so they can actually take a hit without damaging your body. I have them on my jeep and my wife loves them. Had them for a year now and no issues.

Also, I would recommend skipping the rear bumper and using those funds on a winch. You can get the rear bumper later or keep the stock one and chop it or turn it into a water reservoir.

I put these on my 2014 1500 big horn. I love them.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SZ71HDY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.eJFyb8AECA7N

EAG 87-06 Jeep Wrangler TJ YJ Nerf Bars Side Step Armor Rock Guards Tubular https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ISA3GDW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QLWIBbW9QGP3B

Impressed with quality/finish/weight and packing of this product. Didn’t want to drop big money on a 24 year old Jeep. Would recommend. Side note, master cylinder went on me day of install, Jeep life!

I don't remember where I saw it but there was a step that hooked onto the tire and had detailers in mind.

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Heininger-4040-HitchMate-TireStep/dp/B0002Z9KE0

Weather Tech floor mats are ~$200
Nerf bars, I have this set from amazon and they’re holding up really well, took about 45 minutes to install: Tyger Auto TG-RS2F40118 Riser for... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AH5J2HY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I prefer these steps

APS iBoard (Black Powder Coated 4 inches) Running Boards | Nerf Bars | Side Steps | Step Rails for 2011-2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee Sport Utility 4-Door https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WTKSB6E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uQl5BbYWMTARF

Here is what you need:

Shower Arm S Style Chrome by Interbath http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MNJJ66/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_5t7utb0QVPYT6

And this shower head is awesome:

Speakman S-2005-HB Hotel Anystream High Pressure Adjustable Shower Head, Polished Chrome by Speakman http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018LGZ04/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_Ku7utb1RZTM8W

And teflon tape:


Mr. Gasket 2842G Teflon Tape by Mr. Gasket http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BWCFT6/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_Bv7utb18PDVMN

Got these. Decently cheap and look nice

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0GC0GO/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_3rTGDbV19ZQEZ

You can buy these traction pads to get out of ice and snow. It's a more-neighborly solution than calling dibs, IMO.

Yeah I seen those and have a brother in law with them. But we ended up buying these.

https://smile.amazon.com/Westin-Automotive-Products-42-6015-Tube/dp/B01BZN6PPO

Which will show up next week sometime.

If you have the tray, purchase a rubber safety tread and cut it into 6 pieces, sticking to the bottom of the container where it can still fold. Or, you can get some industrial velcro and stick the fuzzy side to your trunk tray in the location you want the container to be placed at.

It actually happens to quite a few kayfun lite users as well. On my r91 I put teflon tape around the threads of the fill screw which works just fine, or if I wanna go the tool-less fill route I have a bunch of those silicone plugs which i trimmed down just right so it presses against the mod's top cap when screwed down and makes a tight, leak free seal.

>Part of off-roading is accepting that your car is going to get hurt. :p

I know, small annoyances seem to piss me off more than large problems and damage. :P

I mean if it were something major, I'd just go and fix it or whatever, but this thing is bent literally..... maybe 1cm? just EVER SO SLIGHTLY that the cover won't fit. Bah.

You need a pair of these (or the more solid/rigid variants). Best investment I ever made.

You should be able to change out the shower head. I've always done so for my rentals (and purchases).

Here's what I just bought today for my house: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004NXT3TE/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Make sure you have teflon tape to seal the connections: http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Gasket-2842G-Teflon-Tape/dp/B000BWCFT6/ref=pd_sim_hi_1

And if your new shower head is still anemic, check to see if you can remove the flow restrictor. (The cheaper ones usually don't, and are the simplest way to obtain higher water pressure if that's all you're looking for.)

I have one of these. works great!

There’s this: Heininger Hitchmate 4040 Black TireStep https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002Z9KE0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pWaZDbHEVYK84

They make step ladders you put over a wheel for stability. Like this.

Google search tire step. They can be picked up for about 25 to 35 bucks.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/G/01/stores/auto/detail-page/B0002Z9KE0.01.lg.jpg

Plumber's teflon tape is the miricle fix for this - super cheap at any hardware store. Cut a square piece, put it over the stem, push the spacebar down over it, and Voilà, cap stays down.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BWCFT6

That myth has been busted and doesn't work 99% of the time. If you're worried about getting stuck, get some traction plates You need those spikes to be able to dig into the ground.

By not driving on a dry lake bed?

The tires look like they are inflated to normal highway driving pressure when they should be under-inflated, and pushing the pedal to the floor is probably the worst way to try to get out of sand. So a blend of approrpiate technique and appropriate caution. And like u/paragonncrazy said, I also learned from experience.

Also, personally, I keep a duffel bag full of recovery straps, mats, and shackels, and an emergency shovel, plus a couple of traction mats and a mankiller jack for those TIFU/emergency situations after I have (it's a job requirement, otherwise my JK stays mostly on pavement) to go offroad in adverse conditions.

I assume the dude in the picture is trying to get a winch set up, but he has no anchor point nearby.