> Speaking as an electrician

Thanks very much! That is good to hear coming from a professional. I was proud of my little workaround hack, but I have never read about it anywhere else so I wondered if I was missing something important... but it really does work (I've used it during a couple of outages now). One useful thing to do is to use a little label maker to label the relevant outlets inside the house with "GENERATOR", just to make clear that they aren't usually going to be working. It's also good to make sure that whatever extension cords you get for coming from the generator to the house inlets has a round end for where it's going into the inlet. Some extension cords have the additional tab sticking up which makes it hard or impossible to fit into the inlet socket. Kind of hard to describe, but you'd know exactly what I mean if you see the inlet. Unfortunately the ones I got don't seem to be available any more on Amazon, the product page has gone away, but they looked a lot like these:

https://www.amazon.com/ParkPower-Marinco-150BBI-RV-Charger-125-Volt/dp/B000NV0V8C/

And the extension cords for generator to inlet are these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IAXSW/

Notice the female end of the extension cord is round, so it'll fit inside the inlet socket. I think I have the 100 foot and another 50 foot of the 10 ga, for getting from the generator on the rear deck to the two different inlets on the house. The garage one is a bit further away, toward the front of the house, so I need the 100' for that. Usually I'd try not to run so long, but when running the generator in an emergency I'd much prefer for it to be hidden in the rear of the house, not visible to the road. Being 10 ga gives me a bit more room to play with 100' length without losing too much power to the cord.

Other than those, it's a pretty standard job that anybody who's a little bit handy can do - you might also need a 1 7/8" hole saw for the inlet, assuming you have wood walls (we have cedar siding). I used something like 10 or 12 ga house wiring between the wall - I think it might be 10 ga since I remember hemming and hawing on which to use, I believe I went heavier just to be on the safe side. It's a bit intimidating for a non-professional to work with wiring stuff up, but since it's not connected to the actual house wiring, that takes some of the fear out. Just have to make sure you get all the right wires in the right places (not too difficult) and tighten everything up. Also a little bit stressful hacking holes in your exterior house wall, but once it's all sealed up again it's pretty cool knowing you can now get power inside without having to leave the window or door open.

I also have a Kryptonite Stronghold anchor in the back yard next to the deck, for chaining the generators up while they are running, so nobody can just pick them up and run off (a downside of having portable generators is that they are, well, portable):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LF903M/

I dug a hole and then filled it with high stress concrete, then left it to dry for a week or two, then drilled the holes for the bolts and installed the anchor. For chain, I used the strongest stuff I could find at Home Depot. The padlock likewise - just the most beefy, secure one I could find. On the generators themselves, I have installed the security addition to the handle:

https://www.amazon.com/Honda-63230-Z07-010AH-EU2000i-Generator-Deterrent/dp/B004DQY6B6/

This doesn't make it 100% secure, but it's better than just having the plastic handle which is easily broken. Security is a matter of layers - you don't depend on anything being 100%, but you hope that everything will serve to either deter or else slow the thieves down enough so that either they don't try, or else you will be alerted in time to stop them.

Finally, I have a couple of failed circuit alarms, which go off when power is lost:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0077Q9NC6/

I figure these could be on the extension bar inside the house while the generator is in use, then if it goes off or is being stolen then I will get an alert when they unplug the extension cord. I am using one of these alarms in the garage now, for the chest freezer so I'll know if that circuit trips out for whatever reason (avoid thawed out freezer, never fun).

Anyway, hope that helps anyone else who might be thinking about a similar setup - the Honda EU2000i is a great little generator (I also have the Companion), and with a little forethought you can make it much easier to use in your house in emergencies. Oh, and one last thing - I also have a large folding plastic table, which can be used to put over the generator if it's raining outside when you need to use it. Obviously the generator can't be too near the house, because of risk of carbon monoxide, so being outside puts the generator at risk of exposure to the elements. One of those folding tables, you can get from any department store, is useful for putting the generator under something. If the rain is especially heavy, I can put an additional tarp over the table, which can also cover two sides, and a couple of cinder blocks makes it ok in the wind.

Incidentally, this is a good battery powered CO detector, great for emergencies if you need to run a Buddy heater inside the house, or make sure the generator exhaust isn't blowing inside:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Y6V5CI/

Nice layout you've got there! Yeah, sticking a Wall Connector right in the middle of that street-facing exterior wall would work great. You'll probably want the 24' cable, though, as the 8.5' might be inconveniently short unless you choose to back in.

> Mobile Connector on a locking NEMA 14-50 outlet to using a hardwired Wall connector" - any links to explain what that is?

Sure thing. I linked the hardwired Wall Connector above. That's a $500 piece of hardware that is a dedicated Tesla car charger. You stick that on the end of a 240V electrical circuit of just about any amperage, and you can effortlessly charge your Tesla off it.

The other option is to stick something that looks like this to the side of your wall. That's a NEMA 14-50 outlet, which requires a 50A circuit, into which you can plug the Tesla Mobile Connector, which comes with your car. Though you'll need the 14-50 adapter for it, which is no longer included for free.

If you go with the NEMA outlet option, you'll be limited to charging at 32A, because that's the maximum amperage that the Mobile Connector supports. The Wall Connector supports up to 80A, which will let you charge your Performance Model 3 at its maximum rate of 48A. No other option I know of gives 48A. I'd expect a P3D to get around ~25 miles per hour charge rate on 32A, and ~40mph on 48A.

And if you go with the Mobile Connector/NEMA outlet option, you'll probably want to either pack your mobile connector into your car when it isn't parked there (very inconvenient) or set up a custom rig to lock the thing onto your house, to prevent theft. Perhaps a locking garden hose closet or something, with the plug end of the connector coming out a hole in the side, so you don't need to unlock it to plug in. You can't just lock the NEMA Socket itself, though, because only the adapter stays inside that part, and the adapter can be easily disconnected from the rest of the Mobile Connector.


Also, if you go with the NEMA option, I'm fairly sure you'll have a harder time updating to a second EV. You'll need to run a separate circuit for a separate charger, rather than simply connecting a second Wall Connector to the existing circuit. Or you could just charge on alternating days, which will work fine if you don't have a horrendous commute, and not require the addition cost of a second Wall Connector and a large circuit.

FYI: it's pretty easy to make adapters for something like this.

Buy one or more of these: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00192QB9M (or something similar, there's many out there)

And for the plug pictured, you can get a cord like this: www.amazon.com/NEMA-6-20P-C13-Power-Cord/dp/B004WJNDR2

Cut the wrong end off the 6-20 cord and wire it to your 14-50 receptacle and bam, you got yourself an adapter.

It's very important, as mentioned by others, that you set your car to only charge at 16A if you do this, though, and never let anyone use your "adapter" for anything else, as most uses for such an adapter would not have the luxury of being able to dial down the amperage to be safe.

If you want an adapter to plug in to a dryer outlet, you can use something like this: www.amazon.com/Certified-Appliance-90-1010-3-Wire-4-Feet/dp/B00009W3P5 and wire it to the same receptacle, again making sure to set the charge amperage on your car properly. Note that there are two different common dryer receptacles out there and you want a cord that matches your need (or one of each?).

It was easier to do than I thought. I installed just above the outdoor outlet so didn't have far for power cable to go. I used TayMac 2-Gang Weatherproof In-Use Cover, cut the siding the exact size of case and screwed case directly to wall. I also used an Echo2 wall mount and centered it within the case. I connected sound output to Bluetooth Outdoor Planter Speakers setup on each end of the patio and it is always connected.

Absolutely love the setup. We have a gas firepit and jam to chill music by the fire. We were watching the birds this afternoon and asked Alexa to play bird sounds- it was fun.

I have a planter right next to it so it is partially hidden. I don't need to worry about neighbors bc they are far enough away that Echo wouldn't pic up if they tried. Don't have smart locks, garage door opener doesn't connect alexa. If somebody ordered something, i'd catch it quick (get notified by text when amazon order goes through) so could cancel quickly. Honestly, don't have any worries about it outside.

The mic isn't as sensitive picking up my requests as when it was indoors (case muffles sound), but if there is a clear path and I am clear, she picks me up. Alexa has a harder time picking up my requests if the planter is blocking the line of sight between me and Echo.

Before i did this I was looking around for waterproof Echo setup but didn't find anything, wanted to share what I did for others looking to do the same. I highly recommend doing it if you spend a lot of time on your back patio.

​

​

I don't think I'm explaining my question well and I apologize for that. Is it normal for the power poles at the site to have what I would call a "normal" plug for a regular extension cord? This is the link to the adapter I thought I might need:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BZ2B22F/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=AIVNKK5E0ABND&psc=1

I just want to plug in a regular heavy duty extension cord, not an RV. Just curious what those of you who regularly use the power at sites find on the poles. Hopefully I'm making better sense of what I'm trying to find. Appreciate the help.

I've found this thread to be the most definitive:

https://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?218442-2016-Volt-120v-EVSE-is-L1-L2-Conversion-Capable

Page 7 has the best 'wire this wire to this wire' guide diagram. Lots of good info all over the thread. Plenty of people saying it works fine, others saying it will burn your house down.

You could also buy an adapter for an electric dryer, which would have half of the wiring done for you already, then get a standard plug for the other end. Start with something like this:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002R0DXNM (making sure it matches the plug you already have, that particular one is an older style) Add on this to the other end:

https://smile.amazon.com/Leviton-5369-C-Connector-Industrial-Black-White/dp/B00002NAUA

The dryer plug could be long enough that you could cut the wire in half and add a different 220 style and a second one of those 110 ourlets, if say your parents house had one style and yours had another.

https://smile.amazon.com/Camco-PowerGrip-Replacement-Transform-55255/dp/B000PGVZ30

Or at least, that's maybe what friend of mine did...

Hahaha! The 30 amp RV plug is just a beefier version of the normal 15 amp plug you have in your house with a different shape. There are lots of types of adapters, you are looking for a 30 amp male to 15 amp female. They make them the other way around for people to connect their RVs at home with so make sure the 15 amp side is female.

An example:

https://www.amazon.com/Leisure-Dogbone-Adapter-Electrical-Converter/dp/B07BZ2B22F/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1550085016&sr=8-13&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=30+amp+to+15+amp+adapter

Remember: 30 amp male to 15 amp female!

You’re welcome and good luck!

I put one in my living room for the TV a few years ago. I'm pretty sure I put it in a standard box. Maybe more like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Midlite-MDT4642W-Single-Gang-Decor-Recessed/dp/B002XDQAA6/ref=pd_sbs_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=C1HVSTSPE9PSYE5ZTKQE

They also sell outdoor ones: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5278-CWP-Receptacle-Industrial-Grounding/dp/B003ATXIBG/ref=pd_sbs_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=C1HVSTSPE9PSYE5ZTKQE

Edit: oops, looks like u/cryo_burned beat me to it.

I have one like this (different brand) that has worked great for 4 years so far. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BS9UTC

An interesting one, I imagine possibly a 240v receptacle module would fit in it... or a replaceable TVSS module perhaps.

Edit: yep, was right about the TVSS module.


Cooper Wiring Devices IG1208W TVSS:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJIR5VS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mNj5Bb07X55KY

ABSOLUTELY NOT. DO NOT DO THIS.

You are talking about making a suicide cord. I repeat: DO. NOT. DO. THIS.

Your best bet is to simply tap the circuit that feeds the light, and run Romex to a new receptacle. If you MUST feed from a live outlet with an extension cord, use the appropriate power inlet receptacle.

Something like this in your ceiling?
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5278-CWP-Receptacle-Industrial-Grounding/dp/B003ATXIBG/ref=sr_1_13?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1468333722&sr=1-13&keywords=Electrical+male+inlet

Yeah sorry, I was digging around last night and it took a while to find: https://imgur.com/01XTVaO I had done a mockup in photoshop with a board and the outlet that I bought from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M3H6494/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (I ended up returning it because the installer included it in their bill).

Something like this?

Most of these hookups have a conventional plug as well. If you're concerned, I carry this for 50 amp and this for 30 amp hookups.

Okay looking into it some more, I think you’ll be fine daisy-chaining. The bridge plate on a 15A receptacle should be able to handle that.

In home wiring there can be tails wire-nutted in each junction box so one receptacle can be removed without breaking the circuit.

I’m not sure if there would be an issue using stranded wire in the outlet screw terminals. What I would make sure of is that your cord is anchored in some way, so pulling on the extension cord isn’t putting force directly on the screw terminals.

Again, if you search for power inlet receptacle like so , you can avoid that whole male cord issue.

I would think using a Power Inlet Receptacle would make it legal.

You can replace your 14-50 with an RV sub-panel. They typically include both 14-50 and a standard plug along with the corresponding breakers. Can be wired to the same 6 gauge wire and 60amp breaker likely already going to your current 14-50.

One option can be found on amazon as “PSC55GRHR”

Edit: Parallax Power Supply  PSC55GRHR 50 Amp/20 Amp Power Outlet Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009KY2YXS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6ldZCb14TMEGP

Edit: Same thing, but much cheaper here. This is the exact one I have and use. Found it in my purchase history: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FVNGBE/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_fNfZCbX2KFC09

Is the power cable removable on the work UPS? If so you could put in a different cord. Or you could just use this

https://www.amazon.com/Female-Adapter-Electrical-Adaptors-12-inch/dp/B01MTQ4B4A

or this is even cheaper. Looks to be the same.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FYDAP6M

Correct, and I have one, but I can’t utilize both ACs or even 1 AC and the microwave without tripping the breaker.

I’ve also seen the splitter I’m talking about available commercially. But it was out of stock. Here’s one on Amazon.

You can buy one single adapter to go from 50 amp to 20 amp.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Epicord-90-Degree-Dogbone-Adapter-Indicator/dp/B079J5HB9N/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1LJJVHK4RWSST&keywords=50+amp+to+20+amp+rv+adapter&qid=1551210675&s=gateway&sprefix=50+amp+to+20+amp%2Caps%2C146&sr=8-4

What happens is that you have an exposed electrical shock/short/fire hazard. As an alternative you could wire a short male cable to your workbench, or even install a power inlet: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5278-CWP-Straight-Flanged-Receptacle/dp/B003ATXIBG

That seems kinda sketch.

NEMA 6-50 is a grounded 240v (+120, -120, ground)

NEMA 10-50 is an ungrounded 120/240v (+120, neutral, -120)

NEMA 14-50 is a grounded 120/240v (+120, neutral, -120, ground)

Going to a 10-50, you'd be losing the ground or using the neutral as a ground which I don't think you're supposed to do. You'd probably want to do a 14-50 instead.

I have an OpenEVSE that was silly - they say to use a NEMA 14-50 plug, so I installed a 14-50 outlet with a 6/3 cable. But it turns out, the neutral is not connected anywhere within the OpenEVSE, so it really only needed a 6-50. But I guess code now recommends 14-50 for new installations anyway, so it makes sense. I'm not sure how strict OP is or the exact details of it, but 14-50 seems to be the recommendation and OP should be able to find a 14-50 weatherproof enclosure lik this and a 14-50 cable for the EVSE.

If it's a 4-plug dryer outlet then yes. You need one of the hot legs, a neutral, and a ground. You could make an adapter plug by hand by easily going to Lowes or whatever you have near and buying a 4 wire dryer plug/cord and the L5-30 twist lock plug. You'd pick a hot wire and use it and cap the other and secure it somehow.

Would I recommend doing it? No... especially if something goes south. The landlord and other tenants would basically own your ass.

EDIT: Actually found one right here: https://www.cables.com/Products/1430P-L530R-1.aspx

You are Looking for a NEMA 14-30 to L5-30 adapter

I wouldn't trust that link, might be two hots and a neutral (240v), but no ground on the L5-30R end, specifications doesn't say. Another reason why things may be possible, but you shouldn't do them.

Have you asked your landlord about paying to have an outlet installed? Some don't care if you cough up the $$$ and use a legit electrician.

There's nothing special to it. You can get a L5-30R connector, a 5-15P connector, and some 14-3 wire and make it in 5 minutes. Or just the L5-30R and cut/strip the end off an appropriately heavy duty extension cord if you already have that.

Note that standard residential is NEMA 5-15P, not L5-15P which is the locking version.

Get something like this over your outlet, it's designed to shield the plug from the elements.

Another option is something like this, that has the 14-50 receptacle built in, has a cutout under so the UMC cord pops out from the bottom, and is lockable as well.

Beyond that, the UMC is water/snow proof, it will handle the Chicago winters just fine.

If you are worried though, you could also just get the HPWC, it's also designed for the outside world, and stands up to the worst weather conditions as well.

dont think an electrician will swap it out, 10-50R only has two hots and a neutral, while a 14-50R has 2 hots, neutral, and ground. The 10-50R uses the neutral as the grounded conductor, and has to be on its own circuit. The tesla plug does not use the neutral, so an adapter would work, but i dont think an electrician would be willing to install an adapter using the incorrect wiring configuration.


edit: if you dont want to pay 80$ for the adapter below, you can buy this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00192QB9M/ref=sxr_rr_xsim1?pf_rd_t=301&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=2286650982&pf_rd_i=14-50r&pf_rd_r=Z7RA2WWBHK7RQHRHVA0V&pf_rd_s=desktop-rhs-carousels&ie=UTF8&qid=1469208482&sr=1

and this:

https://www.amazon.com/Pass-Seymour-3861CC5-30-Amp-250-volt/dp/B000BPFZHM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469208422&sr=8-1&keywords=10-50P

and pick up 1-2' of 6/3 wire from HD/Lowes for 3-5$. wire them together and you have an adapter. the outside two spades are your two hots (black/red) and the remaining is your neutral (white). you would put the neutral on the P to the ground on the R. do not hook up the ground to anything. there will be no neutral connection on the R.

Inspired by this design with very few changes.

Box/pump:

• Stainless head Center Inlet Pump 3/4" Inlet x 1/2" outlet - Chugger pumps - $160
  
• Toolbox Harbor Freight - $15
  
• 1-7/8" bi metal hole saw to make hole for charger inlet - Ace Hardware - $8
  
• 15-amp 125-vold black charger inlet - Amazon - $11 - this has gone up significantly since I bought it
  
• 15 amp weather resistant tamper resistant GFCI outlet - Amazon - $20
  
• Stainless Wall plate - Amazon - $4
  
• Illuminated Maintained Contact Pushbutton Switch, 22mm 120/240V- Auber Instruments - $12 - Light comes on when button is pressed & switches power to surge strip on. Shiny. Pretty. 600x better than a wall outlet.
  
  
  Fittings for pump:
  
  
• 1/2" stainless hex nipple - Bargain Fittings
  
• 1/2" stainless NPT 90 degree elbow - Bargain Fittings
  
• 3/4" stainless NPT x 1/2" reducing coupling - Bargain Fittings
  
• 1/2" Stainless NPT 3 piece ball valve - Bargain Fittings
  
  Had on hand:
  
  
• Irwin 2078300 8-Inch Self-Adjusting Wire Stripper with ProTouch Grips - These things are awesome and if you do any wiring projects, they save tons of time
  
• Power strip - Looks like this one
  
• White, black, and green 14ga electrical wire
  
• Spade connectors
  
• Electrical Tape
  
• Linesmans pliers/Screwdrivers/adjustable wrenches/circuit tester/power drill/drill bits
  
• Step drill bits - Harbor Freight - Not sure how long these will last, but they've worked so far
  
• Teflon tape
  
• 1/4"x6"x10" scrap wood
  
• 3 Small bolts/3 nuts/6 washers - This part was a mess. First I tried wood screws, then the bolts I had were too long, then I cut those bolts down and I couldn't get the nut on the bolt, then the wood I mounted the pump on was full toolbox length & I couldn't get it back in the toolbox so I had to cut it, then the bolt heads on the underside of the board made the pump unstable.
  
  Hoses:
  
  
• 12' 1/2" ID Silicon tubing cut into 2 6' pieces
  
• 2xStainless Steel Male Disconnect
  
• 2xStainless Steel Female Disconnect - I've bought these from morebeer & midwestsupplies & while they are slightly different in appearance, they both work interchangeably.
  
• 4xHose clamps
  
• 4x1/2" NPT Female x 1/2" hose barb
  
  Build Steps:
  
  

1. Drill a hole using the bimetal hole saw where you want to run your plug from the wall to the toolbox.
   
2. Cut out a hole where you want your GFCI outlet to go. I used a dremel, it doesn't really matter what you use.
   
3. Line up your gfci outlet and plate how you want them & drill holes so you can screw the plate -> GFCI -> box to secure it.
   
4. Drill a 7/8"/22.5mm hole using a step bit or punch an appropriate size hole where you want your power switch to go.
   
5. Cut a small 1/4" x6"x whatever length you want bit of wood to mount the pump on.
   
6. Drill appropriate holes using a step bit where you want them for your pumps outlet/inlet.
   
7. Mount the top half of the switch. Make sure you line it up so it's easy to wire the bottom half & attach it to the mounted top part.
   
8. Remove back rubber piece from charger inlet. Cut 3 wires (one each: black, white, green) long enough to reach from your charger inlet to the line on the GFCI outlet. Strip ~1/2" off each end of the wire. Insert into appropriate colored hole on back of charger inlet and screw them in tight.
   
9. Unscrew metal band from back of charger inlet. Insert into hole you drilled in step 1, screw band on to tighten and feed all 3 wires through rubber piece & slide rubber piece on back of inlet.
   
10. Screw Hot (black) to line Hot side (Usually gold screws), screw Neutral (white) to line neutral side (Usually silver screws), and Ground (green) to ground screw on GFCI outlet.
    
11. Cut plug off of surge protector & strip back outer sheath to expose 3 wires inside. Now it's time to wire up your switch to provide power to the surge protector.
    
12. Cut a black wire long enough to go from the Hot Load side of the GFCI outlet to the bottom of the switch. Strip 1/2" of insulation off both ends. Crimp a spade terminal on one side, screw the other side into the Hot Load side of the GFCI. Hook the spade side into the post labeled 23 on the switch.
    
13. Now you'll need to do some splicing. I used compression sleeves, but feel free to do it however you want. The Neutral (white) wire from the surge strip needs to be split. Strip the end on the surge protector wire, cut and strip 2 white wires, long enough to reach the switch and GFCI outlet and splice them together with the surge strip wire. Crimp a spade terminal on one and hook it up to X1 on the switch. Hook the other wire up to the Neutral Load side of the GFCI outlet.
    
14. Cut 2 Hot (Black) wires long enough to be able to reach the switch from the end of the surge strip, strip the ends, and splice them together with the hot (black) wire coming from the surge strip. Crimp spade connectors on the ends of both wires. Hook one spade onto X2 on the switch & the other onto 24.
    
15. Screw the ground (green) wire from the surge strip onto the ground post on the GFCI (You have 2 wires on the ground on the GFCI now, right?).
    
16. Attach the bottom half of the switch to the top half. It just snaps in place.
    
17. Put your fittings on your pump & mount it and the wood it's sitting on to the toolbox by drilling holes through the wood/bottom of the toolbox & using bolts/nuts. In mine, I only used 2 of the 4 bolts on the pump base & 1 additional one to secure it to the bottom of the box.
    
18. Screw the GFCI/outlet cover into the box.
    
19. Plug your pump into the surge protector.
    
20. Close everything up, apply electrical tape where appropriate. The light on the switch will come on when pressed & anything plugged into the surge strip will get powered (the pump will start). The GFCI outlet has power with a small indicator light that tells you it's properly grounded as soon as the box is plugged in.
    
    Switch overview in brief:
    
    

• X1 - Neutral load from GFCI -> X1 & surge protector
  
• X2 & 24 - Hot from surge protector
  
• 23 - Hot load from GFCI
  
  Note about using step bit: It kicks out pretty hard when you move between steps. My wrist hurts today from it binding up a bit between steps and torquing my wrist.