(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best sata cables

Well there's a few considerations.

1: If you want to keep your data (all your downloaded games, Windows, documents, Steam, etc.) then you will need to clone your old hard drive to the new SSD. A lot of SSD's come with cloning software, but just to be safe check on the SSD's page to make sure it will come with it. If they don't, you can download a free software called EaseUS ToDo Backup Free but in my experience this software is a little unreliable. (EDIT: /u/spif_spaceman recommended another software called Macrium Reflect Free, and after testing it myself I concluded that it does seem to work much better than EaseUS, and going forward I will recommend it to everyone as well. Thanks spif!) If you don't want to move your data, you could always just disconnect the HDD, connect the SSD in its place, and reinstall Windows.

2: To actually get your system to read both drives if your going to copy your data, you can simply power off the system and install the SSD in a second drive bay and plug in SATA power and data cables, or you can get a SATA to USB conversion kit and plug the drive in externally. Here is a great kit that I use at my job as a computer repair technician all the time, as it's very reliable, works with most major drive types, and is simple to use. You could also go with something like this if you want something a little more clean and easier to use. Personally either one of those solutions would work, however that enclosure does have a USB 3.0 connection vs the cable which uses a USB 2.0 connection, so the enclosure would have a faster data transfer speed provided you have an available USB 3.0 port.

3: Once you actually get your data moved over (or not) you may need to get a 2.5 inch to 3.5 inch mounting bracket depending on your case. Most modern cases (3-5 years old generally) will have support for an SSD built right in, but some may not. If not, here is a good kit for a great price, and you get 2!

Hope this helped!

Halo=3.4GB, Halo 2=4.4GB, GTA San An=2.9GB, DJFFNY=2.8GB, SW KOTOR=3.7GB, Battle for Bikini Bottom=1.7GB. I'd say average is maybe 2 to 3.5GB. All these sizes I listed are in xbe format, ftp'd to hdd.

I put a 2TB in mine, and I can now see it was overkilll for what I wanted. I have a few more modded xbox's I'm gonna upgrade soon, and planned on going with 500GB, but the 1TB is only a few bucks more, so I'm gonna do that.

I used these parts...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013QFRS2S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EOJNGC2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003IDF0JC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The adapter comes with a molex splitter, so you dont need to buy one if you go that route. I've read that the HDE adapter also works, but is 50/50 on if you get a working one, so that's the only reason I went with Startech. I'm very happy with that 80 wire cable, also. Before ordering, I read countless reviews of other cables being crap, and not being a tight connection, or even having a connector that works. This one is awesome, its a little snug, and hard to bend, but I eventually got it in there and look semi professional. The 3 connectors are spaced a little weird for xbox, so you can only use it one way, and just barely have enough spacing between the hdd cradle and dvd drive. The cable is very firm, I was worried it was going to be low quality, but its nice.

Here is an outdated upgraded hdd list to browse through... http://xboxdrives.x-pec.com/?p=list

Next time, I'm gonna try the WD10EZEX. I've read it works fine.

I have the following games installed and am only using 94.2GB.

GB-569, GBA-1140, GBC-564, N64-212, GENESIS-810, NES-820, SNES-787, XBOX-27, PSX-5.

Since this is my main xbox, I'm gonna eventually load it down with as many original xbox titles as I can find. After that, I've read that CoinOps and Final Burn are worth checking out, so thats also on the list. Once I find out the games I like, I'm gonna make the 1TB purely for games I enjoy, nothing extra. I do love the Favorites tab in Rocky's Emustation, makes finding a game you love out of thousands very easy.

I haven't found out how to get the PSX games to show up in emustation yet, but I know it has to do with the bin/cue area. The bin's are large files, but the cues are only 1kb. I think I saw Rocky post somewhere saying you have to load from cue's, but I'm not sure how.

If you are into N64 at all, check out EarthWormJames' 212 pack. Very sweet. I can link you in pm if needed.

if you feel like replacing it , then this is what is possible if you want a big ass hard drive in their with a shit ton of storage

i dont feel like looking up the ps4 model numbers , but i got 2 og ps4s

my son has the glossy half the og ps4 i have the all matte og ps4 the second released model

they both can have hard drives replaced INTERNAL , it was the EXTERNAL SUPPORT we had to wait for

we have 6 terrabyte internal hard drives in both , filled with games , i got like 500 gigs left i think lol its awesome to load up your shit and have games for days

• what im about to decribe here was called the sata cable mod when ps4 was without external hard drive support , this was for people like me that wanted large hard drives in the ops4 but did not want to use the nyco data bank , its basically a hard drive in a external housing with a esata to sata cable plugged into the internal sata port of the ps4
  
  one was the first edition and the other is the second edition ps4 both og ps4 two diferent model numbers the two first released models , i think the second one was released a year and a half after the first model , im just guessing here
  
  from newegg i got Toshiba x300 7200 rpm drive at 6 terabytes ( its on sale right now , this hard drive was on sale last year at this time also around same price about 170 something like that i know becouse i bought 4 of them then )
  
  then i got a esata to sata cable amazon
  
  then i got rosewill external esata external hard drive enclosure , from amazon , the one with the circle in black on top for fan and blue light in front with looks like fan exhust whole front lights up blue
  
  then i removed ps4 hard drive i forget the process but i followed the steps to put firmware on the new drive once it was hooked up to ps4
  
  putb hard drive in enclosure ,
  
  put esata cable in back of enclosure
  
  put power cable on enclosure
  
  the esata to sata cable , the sata end this is the tricky part
  
  with neddle nose pliers fish that sata cable onto the internal sata port of ps4
  
  i did mine first time
  
  i did my sons first time
  
  my son accidentally got his sata cord unplugged , he almost fucked his internal ps4 sata port ( its fine now i fixed it he dropped it or tripped over it or something after i had him all set up with large hard drive and games ) , i think he yanked the shit outta it tripped and fell because i had that shit on their tight and when i had to fix whatever he did the cable was loose ( i told him to leave it alone but he plays with shit lol ) i had to do his a second time , because he kept fuckin with it before i could redo it he corrupted his data and lost all his game saves to 6 tb of games lol , my fault i should of backed his shit up , but what this means is once the thing is put together be careful , i have zero problems , i dont be moving around my ps4 but when i do i turn everything off and unplug the hard drive enclosure and separate it from the ps4 , he had tio start every game over from the start lol
  
  my ps4 had no problems because i take care of my things i have had 6 terrabytes on my ps4 the whole tim,e runs perfect , i just let it do its thing when it needs to update
  
  until you figure out what is what with restarting , disable rest mode first of all then turn on hard drive , then turn on ps4
  
  then turn off ps4 , then turn off hard drive
  
  i do not use rest mode to prevent problems , i probably xcan but i never tried it to see , i have no need for restr mode anyway , to me it is a useless feature
  
  if you do not start up the ps4 correctly with this internal hard drive ina external case the ps4 will load up to a black screen because the hard drive is not on , turn on hard drive first
  
  if you forgot to turn off hard drive last time you played and you see hard drive on buity ps4 off and your about to play - turn off the hard drive first , THEN turn the hard drive back on , then ps4 on - i guess this resets it becouse im guessing the hardd rive is in sleep mode or something - but if you do this you will see how you must turn off hard rive , then turn the hard drive back on if the hard drive was left on last time you played and you forgiot to turn the hard drive off when you walked away m, this will confuse you the fuirst time it happens then youi relize what it going on and its never a big deal again becouse now you know - basically just make sure everytime your about to play that the hard drive was just turned on and not left on from yesterday
  
  when i did my sons the second time i noticed he fucked up his power cord and i also for some reason could not get the sata cable back on his port i think he yanked the shit outta it becouse the port looked loose , so to be sade i just cut the damn cage out with tin snips looks shitty on the inside but nobody is gonna see the inside and i electric taped the shit outta his power cord , now his ps4 runs like new with storage , it ran like new before the first time i did it but he dropped the ps4 or something and yanked the shit outta it , runs perfect now and looks better than new after i fixed it a second time for him
  
  once that sata cord is on the ps4 sata port then use electric tape to tape it to metal cage
  
  tape the sata cable out the cage in the front then on top of the cage going to the back of the console and oout the back corner vent
  
  cut out the very corner vent making two vvent holes one hole , i did it with simple heavy duty tin snips
  
  then do all your firmware update etc
  
  i might be able to use rest mode but i dont know supposedly you can use rest mode but i never have just to prevent problems
  
  i have had both ps4s like this fopr 2 years and they work flawless , both filled with digital games gameshare everything
  
  now becouse i did this i can also get more storage likle a external hard drive
  
  i did this before their was external hard drive support
  
  i sit the external enclosure on top of the ps4 sitting on the hard drive cover
  
  the blue light go good with it and it looks good
  
  
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KGNXTE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002P6W8E8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
  https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822149629
  
  youtube playlist of the videos i used to get the idea to do itand how to do it
  
  https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLW-2QscMs3iR4HAEXlvw1BiumYHqmaOPx

SSD should be pretty easy. Your motherboard probably came with a few SATA cables. If you don't have any on you, you'll want to buy one. Here are some. I like the ones with the right angle, on one end for the motherboard, but depending on your cable management, you may want two straight ends. Plug that in, get a SATA Power cable from your PSU (there should be one on the same cable that's going to your current HDD) and plug it into the SSD.

The CPU should be pretty easy too. Remove the CPU cooler, release the restraining bar on the CPU bracket, carefully take the CPU out, insert the new CPU, apply new thermal paste, secure the CPU cooler onto the CPU again.

I'd also sell the old CPU as you don't have much use for it, and it's still good for someone building on a budget.

It sounds like your cooling device and/or fan is straight-up malfunctioning. If the fan itself is shown to be working ok, it could mean something else is messed up like the port or the signal to the fan. If it's the port, you may have a different 3 or 4 pin fan port to connect to on your motherboard -- take a look and see if you can find another port to use and see if it helps.

Otherwise, it may be possible to find a molex-to-fan adapter or sata-to-fan adapter and ensure that the fan is getting full voltage, all the time. You can always tweak it later via software and/or BIOS. Further, this may be a direct issue of the BIOS, e.g., having a setting that either ramps speed of the fan with heat of the CPU or is just plain borked. Check for a BIOS update if possible and apply it if you can get it running.

I would concur that buying a high quality CPU cooler is critical for any build, and a standard CPU cooler is grossly inadequate. Maybe consider shelling out a pretty penny and get a mighty cooler that is guaranteed to deliver massive heat removal.

Good luck!

Startech sells a 10GBit usb 3.1 cable you can plug into a usb3 or usb 3.1 Type A port then the other end connects to an ssd disk.

i've had good success using one of those cables for general purposes and it cost around $30.

I've used that cable with a samsung 860 evo 500 GB ssd as extra storage for my laptop that only has a 128GB nvme ssd and its been great. Also makes a fantastic giant usb stick :)

The best part since it's a usb cable intended for use with ssd disks reliance on an external power cable is not necessary as a usb 3 and 3.1 ports provide 5v which is exactly the voltage needed for an ssd disk to function.

Consider purchasing one from amazon then you only need an ssd drive to connect to it.

No problem. Glad I could help. Luckily you were able to get boosted to 11% savings today + 30% from the coupon code! Congrats. They have a generous return policy (not sure if they're competent about it though) so see if it's right for you. This thing will last your entire university career though. Engineering/math/architecture might need a P52S for the quadro discrete GPU but this will be more than adequate for everything else.

This site below is biased to 1 company but they provide the specs of what's compatible with the T580 after-market upgrades:

https://www.crucial.com/usa/en/compatible-upgrade-for/Lenovo/thinkpad-t580

They will sell a 4 GB ram stick for $33.99 from amazon.ca. You're also lucky that SSD and memory prices have fallen drastically this year for your upgrades. When you buy an SSD, make sure it has DRAM so it'll be faster and last longer (this is what differentiates the $54.99 250 GB MX500 I got from amazon vs. the non-DRAM 250 GB BX500 variant that can be had for 34.99 on newegg.ca).

You don't have to use Crucial/Micron products though, just make sure your RAM clock speed is 2400 MHZ, your CL is 17, your voltage is 1.2V and that it is a 260-pin laptop DDR4 ram. You'll want to match the specs of the RAM already inside which I suspect will be an SK Hynix (expensive as it is rare but generic RAM used by manufacturers). I've mixed RAM brands and capacities before without issue (but I never f'ed around with the voltage (more dangerous) and clock speeds (less dangerous)).

Hard drives are easier to pick...just make sure it is a SATA3 (which matches your HDD) and it is a 2.5" form factor. The longer you wait, the cheaper RAM and SSD prices will get this year though. I've seen a 1TB ADATA SU800 priced at $115 pre-tax on amazon.ca. I think many speculate SSD prices will drop to 10 cents per GB (that ADATA deal kinda has in USD terms). Not sure how ADATA would jive with Thinkpads though.

​

I got this enclosure for $11.57 pretax - you'll need it if you do the cloning route, you can find a cheaper/similar alternative, you can either sell your 500 GB HDD or you can put it into one of these and use it as an external/backup (you'll need it if you're in residence and you can share files through DC++ not sure if that's a thing anymore, I've been out of school for a decade+):

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B015FB3R12/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I wish I knew about these when I was in school, I lost a semesters worth of work because my Powerbook G4 HDD died...But now you have the Cloud as well...

While IDE-USB bridges should be fine, you may want to consider a IDE-SATA bridge instead, in case the USB bridge is doing something funky.

In my previous job I used IDE-SATA Bi-Directional Adapters to retrofit old systems with SATA SSDs, as well as provide a way of cloning the IDE drives on a dedicated imaging station that didnt have IDE ports. I was only working with drives larger than 1GB though.

Showing up at 2.2TB usually means something is funky and the sector count has wrapped exactly at the 2TB 32bit LBA limit, whcih shouldnt happen(may mean the USB bridge is doing something weird).

I would be curious to see the output of the following commands:

hexdump -C -n 512 /dev/IDE_HDD
fdisk -l /dev/IDE_HDD
lsblk /dev/IDE_HDD --output-all --json

Ignoring the reported geometry entirely, if you dd to an img and it stops at 170MB, try dd to one of the replacement drives and see if that works.


Edit:
I was curious an looked into this further.

1. The USB adapter will probably never work.
   
2. The SATA to IDE adapter may or may not work (but its $10, so well worth trying).
   
3. The only guaranteed method is to get a motherboard old enough and featured enough to support CHS settings, but new enough to run a useful OS. (Pentium 3 with and AWARD bios looks like a good candidate).
   
   Number 2 is the route I would pursue, even though in the BIOS the IDE-SATA bridged drive may be wrong, Linux does its own hardware detection and should properly read/write to the drive.
   
   That said, you may have issues booting the CF card in the 386, but here is a thread about making that work (Utility to get CHS of the card, you can then put that in the BIOS).
   
   You would then need to install DOS on the CF card, then copy all the files from the HDD. Once you do that, just have a few spare 256MB CF cards and just dd image them.
   
   It may also be that a dd clone of the original disk will lay down disk geometry that just works, with you only showing 170MB of disk space on a 256MB card.

I still am a Wii lad.

(just took my soft-modded launch day preordered Wii, not Wii U, to a family relative's house this past Sunday and we played Smash Bros Melee, Rush 2049's battle mode, Mario Kart Wii, and were going to play some Brawl Minus before we ran out of time)

　

If anything, a soft-modded Wii is easier and more practical nowadays than ever (except for the abundance of used Wii Minis - those cannot be softmoded) thanks to really cheap SSDs which let you just get a simple known-working USB-SATA adapter (I use this Vantec one) plus a 120 to 240GB SSD for only like $30 to $40 in total, and it being an SSD combined with the Wii's own internal storage being flash memory as well as just generally being small means you can transport it all around largely without worry! (transportation protip - to prevent Wii remotes for accidentally having buttons pressed during transport and killing batteries, simply turn a single battery to be backwards which is safe specifically for wii remotes. Don't try this on other electronics unless you know for absolute sure the batteries are directly connected in series and not individually to the device itself)

For reference, USB flash drives can be problematic, especially USB 3.0-based ones, and you can't launch disc-based Wii games from SD cards. Certain microSD--to->USB adapters could theoretically work just as well if you wanted something smaller, but I had a spare 128GB SSD around and a family friend already got that USB-SATA adapter on my suggestion for an unrelated task, so I was able to borrow it for a bit and confirm that it really does work perfectly with soft-modded Wiis before buying an adapter of my own (which was a godsend considering my incredibly hit-and-miss luck with USB flash drives).

To upgrade the softmod, use this Quick Upgrade from Rocky5's Softmodding Tool. You just FTP it to your the root of the E partition and run the default.xbe file. If you haven't nulled your EEPROM, you need to do that as well so if the HDD dies, you can easily replace it. You can run Rocky5's Softmodding Tool Extras Disc from your HDD or use ConfigMagic to do that.

Also, if you have a SATA HDD dock or some kind of SATA to USB adapter, nulling the EEPROM would allow you to easily build an upgrade HDD on your PC for the Xbox. You may even be able to hook the HDD directly into another slot in your computer, but I can't remember. I want to say yes on that though. Anyway, you'd use XboxHDM2USB beta 3 to do that.

OR, you can use Chimp 261812 to clone your HDD to a larger one. You will need a molex splitter, IDE to SATA adapter; this one is recommended a lot but others work too. And you will need a 40-pin 80 wire IDE cable; 24 inches is recommended. You'll boot you Xbox as normal, load Chimp, and it will tell you when to hot swap the DVD drive with your HDD you're upgrading to. It's pretty straightforward.

As for the DVD drive, they are interchangeable between Xbox consoles and are not locked to the motherboard. I don't know much about those, but you can try cleaning the laser or adjusting it doing a laser pot tweak. I think that's what it's called. Someone more knowledgeable than me can chime in on that.

And lastly, since it's pretty much obligatory here, remove the clock capacitor in your Xbox if it hasn't been removed and your Xbox isn't a revision 1.6 or 1.6/b.

Well I certainly can't ask for a better recommendation than that, and I definitely can't thank you enough either—I can't even imagine where I'd begin if I were to go looking for something like this on my own

So now that I've officially given up trying to fix the g6, I'm realizing that I'm gonna need some way to cannibalize the hard drive—and from my multiple attempts at disassembly and repair (and getting several good looks at the hard drive in the process), I'm fairly certain that all I'll need is something like this guy here:

Vantec USB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA HDD Adapter with case (CB-STU3-2PB)

The HP website has a page with specs for the model (g6-1d21dx), but it's like laughably uninformative about the hard drive, so I'm basing my guess on the number & layout of the connector pins on the unit

Like I said, I'm pretty sure, but an extra set of eyes never hurt

Wait, the one I linked earlier is for 2.5" hard drives. Yours looks like a 3.5" one, so this adapter is the one that'd fit yours. That other one will probably work, but this one should for sure. (See edit 2). You can also get this one for cheaper, but it'll copy files at a slower rate.

Edit: I know that these 2.5" and 3.5" drives use the same SATA connections, but I don't want to be responsible in case something's off with the adapter I initially recommended to OP. 3.5" wasn't listed in its description, so I just wanted to play it safe and recommend something I'm more sure of.

Edit 2: So I just learned from the replies that 2.5" HDD adapters can't carry enough power to spin up the disks in a 3.5" HDD. So the first adapter I linked actually wouldn't have worked. Thanks for the info!

Awesome. This is super helpful. Thanks so much.

Just a quick query since i dont use amazon much, is this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/offer-listing/B0778HN4KQ/ref=dp_olp_0?ie=UTF8&condition=all&qid=1525818506&sr=1-2

The same product/from the same trusted seller? I live in aussieland and the seller you link doesnt ship internationally unfortunately.

I went the Clonezilla route with my T470, but since you don't want to bother making a bootable USB and working with images, and don't care that you have to buy a cable, then originally I looked at doing it that way with Samsungs software doing a direct clone, and after a bit of research I found that Startech has the best reviews for these types of cables and one of the few that will support the full speed of the USB 3.1 Gen 2 ports that come with the T470. Here is the cheapest:

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-10Gbps-Adapter-Cable-Drives/dp/B00XLAZODE/ref=pd_ybh_a_42?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=6SD1W38YYB6HEE0G12EK

Startech also has them with USB-C, and fancier ones that do both 2.5 and 3.5 drives, and if you don't care about the speed there is a cheaper USB 3.0 version. You can find these other versions by going to the above URL and scrolling down a bit where you can select what you want.

If you eventually decide to go the image route, you will find Macrium Reflect Free version easier to use than Clonezilla, because in Clonezilla you need to understand Linux type hardware designations and it doesn't have as pretty of a user interface.

USB to 4 pin molex is super common and easy to find. Just then buy an adapter from molex to fan power

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00VG6UV2O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475254389&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=usb+to+molex&dpPl=1&dpID=41Y6G9u4zhL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DU8ZZ0O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475254425&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=molex+to+fan+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=41XRRy3aZsL&ref=plSrch

There may be a cable that skips the middle man, but I have confidence that these are popular and probably work well

A few comments:

• The HDD cage ships attached to the bracket the way you have it, but it's really intended to be mounted vertically, so the SATA connectors are on the bottom or top instead. See for example this pic from PC Perspective's review. You'll need to use right angled SATA cables where they connect to the drives to properly clear the GPU.
  
  
• You'll also need to manage the cables a bit below the drives and around the GPU, to ensure you've got enough space for everything. The USB cable, in particular, looks like it will need to be routed differently (possibly over the GPU).
  
  
• Not positive the front panel will close properly with the power cable and that adapter, you may have to look at a different style of slim SATA adapter instead - something like this.

If you want the DIY solution, you'll have to be a bit comfortable opening up the laptop. Fortunately it's pretty simple on that model and there's a guide here: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Lenovo+IdeaPad+Y510P+Hard+Drive+Replacement/116083

Once you have the HDD out, buy an adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F7WDZGT

Plug that in to your new PC, and you can copy everything off of it like it's a USB flash drive.

Note: If your laptop has an mSATA or PCIE SSD, you will need a different adapter.

You can use a program called Chimp to clone the drive. I've never done it, so I don't know exactly what to do, but there is a link in the sidebar to all of the tutorials.

Another way to do it is with XboxHDM. After zeroing your HDD key (if you haven't done that already), FTP the EEPROM file, and the C and E partitions to your PC and put them in the right folder for XboxHDM. Then you can build a Linux ISO to burn to a CD or put onto another bootable media. You can slap a drive into a PC and boot into that special Linux to create an HDD locked to your Xbox.

EDIT: Since you're using a SATA drive, you'll want this IDE to SATA converter. The Xbox is finicky for some reason with converters, but this one is recommended by the tutorial guide.

You'll also need an 24 inch 80 conductor IDE cable. The one in the original Xbox is only a 40 conductor cable, which apparently causes issues/slower speeds with SATA drives.

If you want to make your life a lot easier...and I mean A LOT easier, please consider picking up a set of Silverstone's CP11 Sata cables. I have 5 of them and they arrived black, not blue.
https://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=445&bno=123&tb=52&area=en

https://www.silverstonetek.com/images/products/cp11/cp11-6.jpg


They are super flexible, easy to route, and the connectors are ultra low-profile for those hard to reach places.

A few, you could go with a normal Corsair 120mm fan, if the old fan is soldered directly to the PSU I would cut the wires close to the fan, and solder a 3/4 pin connector to the wires, then attach the fan that way. If You don't have an extra fan connector you could scrap to do this I would suggest this one https://www.amazon.com/Electop-3-Pin-ATX-4-Pin-Molex/dp/B01MQ42KMV/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1536641156&sr=8-16&keywords=fan+connector

here is a basic 120mm fan: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G5I6MRK/ref=twister_B07843K53J?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

But if you wanted to Just cause you can and don't mind very loud fans, you could do this one https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Electronics-AFB1212GHE-CF00-120x120x-connector/dp/B004X2M2GG/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1536641387&sr=1-4&keywords=delta+120mm+fan

I personally have had no issues with this HDE adapter. This adapter is pretty fast too along with an 80-wire ribbon cable. This ribbon cable has been recommended many times to me and has been working great. The adapter is $8 and the cable is $6 with free shipping included at this time.

which one of these do u recommend and how many should i get?1:(https://www.amazon.com/Electop-3-Pin-ATX-4-Pin-Molex/dp/B01MQ42KMV/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543065508&sr=8-3&keywords=Molex+to+fan+adapter)

2:(https://www.amazon.com/CRJ-4-Pin-Molex-Sleeved-Adapter/dp/B07DPXR8KS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1543065508&sr=8-5&keywords=Molex+to+fan+adapter)

3:(https://www.amazon.com/CRJ-4-Pin-Molex-Sleeved-Adapter/dp/B075NPZ94N/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1543065508&sr=8-6&keywords=Molex+to+fan+adapter)

and if u have another suggestion i would be happy to hear it :)

​

Here is a guide for safely removing a hard drive. Once the hard drive is removed you want to avoid static or magnetic or electrical interferencesas best as possible. As /u/BmanUltima suggested, a SATA to USB adapter is your best bet.

Sorry for the late response, anyhow, because the motherboard only has 1 system fan header, you may want to get either a 4 pin molex to 3pin fan adapter cable for the second case fan or a fan slitter cable:

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ

https://www.amazon.com/Molex-Computer-Connector-Y-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B00DU8ZZ0O/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1483975373&sr=1-2&keywords=3pin+fan+to+molex

that or you may want to add a fan hub

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I

FWIW, I have done similar soldering work and something that has helped a lot is old-school Ultra ATA 100/133 IDE Parallel Cables. They are basically 80-pin ribbon cables with a 0.025 inch (.635mm) pitch between conductors, which matches up nicely with many types of surface mount chip pins.

In a case of a repair like this, I'd simply cut off a segment of ribbon cable 7 conductors wide, strip the end to about 1/4 ", make a small bend to match up the pcb to the chip, make sure the wires are perfectly parallel, and then solder them all at once almost like is shown in the video with the normal pins on the chip. It can take out a lot of the tedium of soldering individual wires while risking unsoldering of wires that you've already placed, because the ribbon cable would keep the wires parallel.

I would really encourage you to think about upgrading the hard drive after you softmod it. Playing backed games on discs can get expensive since most of the games are 6gb+. Even a 80gb IDE drive would be a massive help!

The hardest part of modding is finding a flash drive that works.

What you will need.

Flash Drive (should work)

https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Cruzer-Blade-drive-SDCZ50-004G/dp/B002U213Y8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539785044&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=sandisk+cruzer+blade+4gb&dpPl=1&dpID=411nUnjz9eL&ref=plSrch


Usb to xbox controller port

https://www.amazon.com/Mcbazel-Xbox-Converter-Adapter-Original-Console/dp/B076HHZ41Z/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539784602&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=xbox+controller+to+usb+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=41y27JttbeL&ref=plSrch#

Sata to IDE adapter (If you upgrade hard drive)


https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Drive-Optical-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00EOJNGC2/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1539784695&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=sata+to+ide+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=51styPntUEL&ref=plSrch

80 connector IDE cable

https://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Cable-Device-Conductor-inch/dp/B000I21Y28/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539784965&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=80+connector+IDE+cable&dpPl=1&dpID=41gZKwD33jL&ref=plSrch

Use the Rocky 5 mod and youtube tutorial and you will be fine!

so something like this: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATPCIEX8ADP-6-Inch-Express-Adapter/dp/B007Y91B80?th=1

And both drives should get plenty of power from connecting this way and work just fine?

Thank you for your quick help & info Bman! :)

Ok, somewhat common issue with the Element case. You will need to take the rear side panel off (the metal one) and trace that wire. It will eventually plug into a molex to fan header adapter to plug the fan into the power supply.

It will look something like this product

https://www.amazon.com/ExtremeMod-Computer-Connector-Y-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B00DU8ZZ0O

​

The loose end of the fan cable plugs into one of the 3 pin connectors (its keyed so it can only plug in one way) and then that should give power to the fan.

Agree, but I was able to solve this really cleanly with these Silverstone SATA cables, runs right under the RAM slots and above the GPU. Works great.

>I only have two SATA ports I can access, the rest are blocked by the GPU.

Plug in these 90 degree cables when your GPU is out of the system.

https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-90-Degree-Low-Profile-Connectors-CP11B-300/dp/B00KTLGDGA

https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Lateral-Low-Profile-Connectors-CP11/dp/B00HDEBGSQ

>What's a reasonable GPU update nowadays?

AMD gives you the best performance for the price.

>To be sure, the Radeon RX 5700 series cards are not going to be Turing killers. But they are competitive in price, performance, and power consumption – the all-important trifecta that AMD has trailed NVIDIA at for too many years now.

https://www.anandtech.com/show/14618/the-amd-radeon-rx-5700-xt-rx-5700-review/16

A good aftermarket card: https://www.gamersnexus.net/hwreviews/3498-sapphire-rx-5700-xt-pulse-review

>If i'd like to upgrade my RAM, can I buy another single stick of 8gb ddr3? Will it work in dual channel in this case?

Yes, Yes: https://us.msi.com/Motherboard/H81M-E34/Specification

That is a 2.5" SATA hard disk. A cable exists that will allow you to connect it to a running computer via USB and browse its filesystem. You could then navigate to your files, if they are still there, and manipulate them. You'd buy it on amazon, or locally if you want. Anything like the following query will get you one: "2.5" sata to usb" Here is a link to one that will work for you:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015FB3R12/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Either a cable or an enclosure would work. The linked item can function as both (see pictures). That's a good thing because you are able to use the old hdd as external storage, provided it hasn't been damaged.


​

https://www.amazon.com/VBESTLIFE-Interface-Network-Adaptor-Playstation/dp/B0778HN4KQ

Found that while searching and I would go with that over what I was saying. Don't need any adapters with this. Only downside is it doesn't have the networking port, but honestly that isn't really a downside these days.

This would be your cheapest solution to getting a harddrive working on your ps2. Just this and a harddrive.

Essentially, yes. It might work without it after upgrading, but it improves performance and guarantees it will work. Just grab it, its 5 bucks.

https://amazon.com/dp/B000I21Y28/

Make sure to get the 24 inch one and fold it according to this:
http://web-nine.com/projects/xbox/ide/

Those are PEG 6 pin and PEG 6+2 Pin connectors. You can use adapters like this 6 pin and this 8 pin to get some extra of these if your power supply does not provide any more. Each will consume two SATA power connectors (molex versions are also available). But most of all, make sure your power supply is strong enough to handle those cards and your system.

I'm going to go with:

• SATA III (6 Gb/s) 3.5"/2.5" Hard drive dock
  
  
  
• eSATA to SATA (male) cables
  
  
• Going to wait on whether I end up getting an SSHD or SSD
  
  Pros:
  
  
• Can use both 3.5" and 2.5" drives
  
• Drives will be outside of the PS4 which will hopefully reduce internal heat
  
• Swapping drives will be easy so I can get an SSD, install my most played games on it while having another SSHD or something to hold other games
  

For the time being is there an adapter for this?
Also if you could recommend me a power supply that would be great.
Edit: Is this the adapter?

It is a LG Slim Blu-Ray Combo Drive - SATA CT40N. Taking a look into the "frequently bought together" section, looks like I'll be needing this adapter. Thanks for the help.

Hmm, that makes sense I didn't think of all those issues. The current system I have is a Dell laptop Inspiron 7348 2-in-1. I was also planning on upgrading my current laptop's hard drive storage, which is a 2.5" drive. This is in addition to transferring all the files I currently I have on my laptop to the new 1TB HDD. Does this adapter seem like a good choice to fit 2.5"/3.5" SATA HDD/SSD? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYU0E0K/ The manufacturer of the other adapter you linked sells a 2.5/3.5 SATA adapter for $40 and I didn't want to spend that much.

 

Another thing, I've never had a PC with an SSD and 2 different storage devices before. To get the full use out of the speed of an SSD after installing Windows on it and adding the HDD to my build afterwards I would have to move all the programs/files on my HDD I want to load fast to the SSD right?

Hi fellow miners,

Excited first timer here.

Main illustration: https://imgur.com/mAYTeBN

This is my second attempt at building a 6 card mining rig. Since my last failed attempt (https://www.reddit.com/r/EtherMining/comments/7vr330/my_sexy_drawing_mining_rig_illustration_ps_i_am_a/) , I upgraded my PSU which gave more VGA slots. I also have ordered some splitters.

__
Setup:

2x 6 inch PCI Express Power Splitter Cable

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Startech-com-Express-Power-Splitter-Cable/dp/B004NNTVT6?th=1

6x 1070 ti graphics cards

i) 3x Asus TURBO GTX 1070 Ti 8GB
ii) 1x Inno3D GeForce GTX 1070Ti iChill X3 8192MB GDDR5 PCI-Express Graphics Card
iii) 2x KFA2 GeForce GTX 1070Ti EX-SNPR White 8192MB GDDR5 PCI-Express Graphics Card

6x Risers

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B071JNQ6F7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
2x EVGA 750W GQ PSU's https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B017ROH8A6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dual PSU power supply adapter

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0788KTZPC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

8GB Ram

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Crucial-DDR4-2400-PC4-19200-288-Pin/dp/B019FRED60/ref=pd_yo_rr_psims_i_4?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=2DPXVKMBTBV9EDR17DVE&th=1

60GB SSD

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B019WAWYH0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

G660 CPU

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B015VPX05A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
ASUS z270 p

MOBO

https://www.scan.co.uk/products/asus-prime-z270-p-intel-z270-s-1151-ddr4-sata3-m2-(pcie-sata)-2-way-crossfire-realtek-gbe-lan-usb-30

_____

1. Am I ready to turn on the rig?
   
   
   
2. Do you reckon the 1070 ti’s are too close together: https://imgur.com/GyF8KIy ?
   
   You guys are awesome. I’m new to this community and I’m surprised to see that everyone is so supportive!
   

Enclosure

If you at all see yourself upgrading to a Thunderbolt 3-enabled MacBook Pro, buy yourself an AKiTio Node enclosure. If you're like me and you're going to keep buying used/refurbished 2015 model laptops until the day you die, just pick up the AKiTio Thunder2. The former comes with a 350W PSU and a Thunderbolt 3 cable, the later comes with a 65W and a Thunderbolt 2 cable.

Power Supply Unit

If you pick up a Node, you likely won't need an external PSU.

If you pick up a Thunder 2, you'll be DIY'ing your way to the dankest eGPU this side of a Solidworks Student Edition License. The best solution our community has engineered to date is the Dell DA-2 220W wiring hack. The PSU costs $15 used (they came off of old Dell Optiplex units, so they're are millions out there on eBay), and the associated wiring bits you need to turn that puppy into a compliant PSU is another $22^1.

Graphics Card
I know very little about Workstation/Professional Grade graphics cards, but I know how to read a stat sheet. Choose between one of these three (https://www.newegg.com/Product/Productcompare.aspx?CompareItemList=449%7C14-133-645%5E14-133-645%2C14-105-068%5E14-105-068%2C14-105-067%5E14-105-067), and let somebody here correct me if I'm incorrect in my selection. I would choose the AMD Radeon Pro WX 5100, but the WX 4100 should also do (and may actually fit in the Thunder2).
___
^1 Three parts needed to supercharge your AKiTio Thunder2 PSU:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00VWEGKD4/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I1WKMB149AEOE0&colid=227HDTPAA1PW1

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B018RE44DY/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I25QNEKJN40255&colid=227HDTPAA1PW1

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B004NNTVT6/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I2WIPZQP7LYVIL&colid=227HDTPAA1PW1

Okay a 15mm 2.5" Drive will fit in the cage? I was wondering that aswell was going to take some measurements but I Have a 3.5" 4tb Drive I tried installing using Sata extenders (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L9R3AKA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) but the PS4 Pro dosn't have 12+v HDD Support so it would power the HDD(I connected using the Stock 1TB HDD and it mounted and booted up so i knew it was connected to the Sata/Power ports correctly just had to align precisely with a flash light. so i was thinking about Getting these(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A5323NO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2S4EXOOJ8Z82D) and (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002P6W8E8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1UCLUF7KW7AYG) to mount a 3.5" HDD. Any thoughts?

> ASUS G11CD

Looks like it has 4 SATA ports. I would be surprised if they are all taken. Just buy some sata calbes along with your SSD and you should be good. Otherwise you can add some SATA ports with one of these.

Ah, perfect, thanks, I didn't realize it was called Slimline. I've just ordered one of these, so I think that should work: Startech Slimline SATA to SATA Adapter

You only get 2 drive bays in a T480 (assuming that it is the same as the T470). You get one 2.5 inch SATA Express bay, that is PCIe Capable (might be 2X or 4X, I'm not sure). And you get one 2242 M.2 slot that is mutually exclusive with WWAN (no cell service if you put a drive here). The WWAN slot is also PCIe 2X capable, and there is one NVMe drive out there.

You can use something like this to convert that 2.5" drive to Two m.2 slots.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Adapter-Converter-Support-25S22M2NGFFR/dp/B018AOZ9QM/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519865090&sr=1-1&keywords=2.5+inch+to+m.2+adaptor


The cheapest m.2 SSD is also 2 TB. So you could buy two of these for $1000, and then put something in the 2244 slot.

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/CXvbt6/western-digital-blue-2tb-m2-2280-solid-state-drive-wds200t2b0b


I think this is the largest 2242 M.2 drive, at 512 GB.

https://www.amazon.com/Transcend-512GB-MTS400-Solid-TS512GMTS400/dp/B016W1PP5K

So with those 3 you could get to 4.5 TB of NAND flash, which is just a little short of your goal.


Otherwise, you are stuck at 2 TB HDDs. Those are all that are offered in the 7mm 2.5 inch variety. Offering you a max of 2.5 TB total.

https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-BarraCuda-2-5-Inch-Internal-ST2000LM015/dp/B01LX13P71?th=1

Your other option is to buy a P51 or P52, which has room for up to 4 drives. One 2.5" SATA III slot. One combo, 2.5" SATA III or 2 2280 M.2 dirves, and one 2242 M.2 drive.

I bought this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0778HN4KQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

a replacement HDD adapter for my ps2 upgrading it to SATA as the only IDE I had laying around was pretty small in size. it works for me perfectly and to make the deal even sweeter transferring the ISO from my discs to the HDD is done in something like 1/3 of the time as when I was using a bunch of converters to IDE, think that topped out at like 3MB/s or so, took like 10 mins to move a single 4gb game. I dont believe the network part works but I wasn't using that anyway. I just put my OEM adapter in a box in case I would ever need it down the road.

The tech specs for a motherboard on Newegg or on the Manufacturer's site should list the number of fan headers.

You can also use a fan splitter or use a power supply adapter, what you want is a "molex fan adapter", there's lots of them, they even make combination splitter/PSU adapters: https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Molex-headers-CONNECT-MULTIPLE/dp/B009D3HV1Q/

https://www.amazon.com/Electop-3-Pin-4-Pin-Connector-Adapter/dp/B01MQ42KMV/

You have to do custom cables pretty much for everything.
Also overpriced (but pretty awesome) SATA cables: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KTLGDGA

First, some numbers for you.

A stock R9 290X will do around 29-30MH/s (Claymore) and use ~250W of power at the GPU side, which translates to 312W from the wall at 80% efficiency. Add ~80W at the wall for the CPU/mobo and you're at ~400W for single-coin mining. That's pretty good even for a 600W PSU (but not good if your electricity is expensive). I've run this card with a 180W card on a 750W PSU with no issues.

I've been able to undervolt an R9 so it hovers around 190W at the PSU at 29MH/s but I haven't had the time to push it further. MSI Afterburner has been weird in applying settings. So that setting draws 350W at the wall for single mining, 450W for dual. OUCH.

Now, in your case - you only have 2 VGA power cables so, like you mentioned, you need to use a 6-pin adapter. You say SATA, but be aware that 1x SATA is specced to provide up to 50W. **DO NOT USE SOMETHING LIKE THIS*: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-108494-8-Inch-15-Pin-Express/dp/B009GUP6O0 - first review mentions that they melt! Of course they do, they are pulling all the power from a single SATA pin (even though it goes across two cables, it's the pin that's going to overheat). 6-pin is specced to provide up to 75W, 8-pin up to 150W.

These are much better because 2xSATA (50+50W) exceeds the spec of 6pin (75W) - but I would not do 2xSATA to 8pin:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATPCIEXADAP-6-Inch-Express-Adapter/dp/B007Y91B80
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-Molex-Power/dp/B01DV1Z22K
https://www.amazon.com/Tenext-Power-Express-Connector-Adapter/dp/B00DP98P0A

Now, the million-dollar question - which rail are your SATA connectors on? You want to be able to provide 150W over the SATA adapters.

TLDR: A good** 750W PSU is fine for running that combo, but yours might be problematic. You can try, but get dual SATA adapters and definitely watch them for overheating.

I agree, just get a USB 3.0 or 3.1 external but why get that expensive and super slow HDD when you can get an external SSD or a normal SATA SSD and a USB adapter like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84

Or the 3.1 version:

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-10Gbps-Adapter-Cable-Drives/dp/B00XLAZODE

I would never run any OS off of an HDD at this point, they're frustratingly slow. But that's just me.

Yes.

You'll also need to power it though. The one you linked won't send power over usb. You'll need something like this to do both.

Edit: if you have spare SATA power cables from your power supply, you could use those as well. But that will mean digging into your case for that.

Will you be reversing the flow of the fans inside your UFO? From the factory they act as an intake, not exactly ideal for the top of your spacebucket.

1. 1 x 80mm should be fine for a UFO build if you flip the UFO's fans. The UFO will be responsible for most of your heat exhaust. Your climate will also dictate how much airflow is required.
   
   
2. Intake on the bottom, exhaust on the top. Anyone doing otherwise is in error. Heat rises, work with it.
   
   
3. That adaptor sure will. You'll also want one of these. It will work with all standard PC case fans
   
   
4. Yes those will work just fine. If it's too long you can just cut it shorter without having to do any rewiring.
   
   
5. No idea, never owned a UFO. Should be pretty straightforward, just go for a walk around your local hardware and see what ideas come to you.
   
   Remember buckets are a fun DIY challenge. You will need to do a bit of trial and error.

As promised here is the link with pictures of the added fan and new rivets.

This isn't a tutorial on how to do this mod. For you to replace the rivets and add thermal paste you will need to remove CPU A. You can find plenty of videos and tutorials on how to upgrade your CPU's on a cMP.

Pictures of Fan, Cable & Rivets

Noctua Fan

Replacement Rivets

SATA to PWM Cables

Macrumors Forum Post

Edit: Added my macrumors forum post about this subject

https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-SATA-Combo-Adapter-Inches/dp/B000VS4HDM/ref=sr_1_1/187-6724831-0643107?ie=UTF8&qid=1468022753&sr=8-1&keywords=3.5%22+2.5%22+ata+adapter


This should do the trick just fine. Looks handy to have around, too.


Make sure you don't plug the drive in backwards, it's easy on those small drives when it's not keyed. I've cooked drives doing that before. Oops!

First of all, I'd definitely check the cable you're plugging them into (if it's a PC)

​

Also, you could invest into something like this and see if they're visible?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Benfei-SATA-Adapter-Supports-UASP/dp/B07F7WDZGT/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1542588052&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=sata+to+usb&psc=1

(useful cable to have anyway)

​

+ If it's a laptop, I'd definitely have a look if it's not because it's overheating? (not sure if that could cause the issue as I've never seen it cause the issue with HDD) - but I guess that depends on what laptop you have.

​

I can sell you my 750Ti. It does require a 6 Pin PSU cable to work, but you can use something like this or this which should be ok.

Thanks! I just want to transfer the files, but I don't mind putting it inside my pc while it transfers.

Would something like this also work? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002OEBO6E?pf_rd_p=b4b36b89-db1d-45ae-9084-4fd14a329395&pf_rd_r=51MRWE2KAWK9TW1EQVJ1

It's only 10 bucks.

You could try getting a splitter like this.https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-PCIEXSPLIT6-6-Inch-Express-Splitter/dp/B004NNTVT6

That being said, be careful about drawing too much power, check how much supply can output per slot and how much each of the cards would consume. Take undervolting into account, but to be safe I'd probably go off non-undervolted numbers.

>Hmm, that makes sense I didn't think of all those issues. The current system I have is a Dell laptop Inspiron 7348 2-in-1. I was also planning on upgrading my current laptop's hard drive storage, which is a 2.5" drive. This is in addition to transferring all the files I currently I have on my laptop to the new 1TB HDD. Does this adapter seem like a good choice to fit 2.5"/3.5" SATA HDD/SSD? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYU0E0K/ The manufacturer of the other adapter you linked sells a 2.5/3.5 SATA adapter for $40 and I didn't want to spend that much.

almost all 2.5" and 3.5" drives have the same kind of plugs, a sata port and a sata power port. what the adapter i liked does is both power and give a connection to a 2.5" or 3.5" drive. the plugs on an hdd and ssd look like this, SATA connection on the left, power on the right. in any case, either the one i linked or you linked would work for both ssd's and hdd's, 2.5" and 3.5" alike. it's standardized for pc building.

>Another thing, I've never had a PC with an SSD and 2 different storage devices before. To get the full use out of the speed of an SSD after installing Windows on it and adding the HDD to my build afterwards I would have to move all the programs/files on my HDD I want to load fast to the SSD right?

thats the entire point of the ssd. the SSD is for any program you want to load fast

• Windows
  
  
• internet browser
  
  
• itunes/spotify
  
  
• adobe/creator programs
  
  
• small games with online lobbies (rocket league, etc)
  
  while the HDD is for big files that you dont particularly need to load fast:
  
  
• most of you steam library
  
  
• music library
  
  
• video library
  
  i said install windows on the ssd first, then add the hdd only to prevent confusion on the windows install, since it doesnt really matter if the hdd is live or not during the windows install. just makes it so you dont accidentally install on it. I usually have it fully hooked up for the first boot, then when i go to install windows i detach the sata cable from the drive, but leave sata power in, so i can go back after windows is loaded to click the calbe back in

The R720XD has two internal 2.5 drive bays on the back of the server. I have two SSDs attached to the server through these two drive bays in a mirrored pool for VM storage. FreeNAS has no problems with them, aside from the normal FreeNAS alert that those two drives get kinda warm. SMART shows no issues.

I have another pair of SSDs in a mirror, attached via SATA to USB cables for my FreeNAS boot volume. This too works fine, no alerts from the server nor FreeNAS OS about any of the SSDs attached. SMART is good on these drives as well.

When you mention your R610 reports them having problems, is that from the server itself? Or is the report from your OS? Are they attached to your HBA?

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/xRw9wP found a case that should work better, and 450w is more then enough for that build, especially at 80+ gold efficiency.

EDIT: you're also going to need one of these or one of these for the power supply to work with the video card.

Here is the psu I would recommend https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CGGOXWQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_y1mDzbA4C4VRW

The psu is worth every cent, it is a small compact one with a lot of power. Make sure to ask Reddit to confirm that it is removable

Check to see if you have a 24 pin or a 10 pin port on your motherboard. I had a 10 pin so I had to get a 24 to 10 pin adapter here is what I used https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WV9Z9QT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_wnw9ArYLBceg7

You may also need a 6 pin adapter which I bought here https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Y91B80/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_6zSf6rWjKorTR

I've been having rough luck with 128GB thumb drives lately, think I might just settle with a USB3.0 to Sata cable and get a proper SSD.

This cable looks promising- https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00XLAZODE

That depends, are you biased towards AMD or nVidia?

Personally i prefer nVidia, so cards i would recommend that will be powered by your PSU and are equivalent or more powerful than the the GTS 250 are:

GT640, GTX 550 TI, GTX 460, GTS 450.

My XPS 8100 had a 460.

Just remember, some of those cards will require two 6pin power connections, not to worry, you just need to buy a 6pin splitter.
I can confirm this works, 9800gtx requires 2 connections.

This is the IDE to SATA adapter that is recommended on this sub: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EOJNGC2

You can't use the original grey IDE cable that comes in the stock xbox if you upgrade to a modern SATA drive with the above adapter. You'll need to pick up an 80 wire one. I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003IDF0JC

Personally, I have a 2TB drive (WD20EZRZ) in mine - plenty of space for everything.

Here's the video on how to partition it on the xbox: https://youtu.be/6wsGjDOOAP0

That's a good chunk of the info for upgrading the hard drive. I use a modchip so that I can run it unlocked and don't have to worry about anything.

Install the modchip and HDD, then boot up the latest Hexen disc. It should be able to build your new drive for you. Then you configure your bios to point to the xbe that you want to boot into and then re-flash it to the modchip.

You should then boot to that xbe when you reboot the xbox.

Check out XBMC-Emustation also. Takes time to get it fully setup, but it's the best dash (in my opinion)!

...and no - installing an SSD will not do anything positive for you.

If you aren't planning on doing SLI/Crossfire this won't be an issue. If you aren't planning on using more than 2 SATA ports it won't be an issue.

If you are doing SLI/Crossfire and you plan on using 3-4 SATA ports then you'd have to get a low-profile cable like this:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/SilverStone-CP11-SST-CP11-SATA-Cable/dp/B00HDEBGSQ/

It's a pretty niche issue but it can be solved. For a 40euro difference I'd go with MSI.

I wouldn't call those DVD drives expensive. Here's one I bought for $24 and it worked great. You might need an IDE <-> SATA adapter though.

Around 20 days, I also replaced the front fan to help with the noise. I did need this for the DVD drive to work:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009JXKQ9O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's a Sata and IDE drive, you can use a USB cable but because they're 3.5" drives, you also need to supply power. Something like this is an option.

sata/ide adapter


Missed the above comment while typing... Same idea but better price/package

No problem man, I have had a ps2 Fat since launch and only just started messing around with the HDD. It’s fun and they are tons of videos on FMcB and the different ways to run application from a memory card or install them on the HDD.

Here is the link to the adaptor I bought. It gets ok reviews (I own 3 as I’m modding Ps2 for friends) and all of them work perfect.

https://www.amazon.com/VBESTLIFE-Interface-Network-Adaptor-Playstation-2/dp/B0778HN4KQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=ps2+sata+network+adapter&qid=1559131099&s=gateway&sprefix=ps2+sata&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

StarTech 25S22M2NGFFR Dual M.2 SATA Adapter with RAID - 2x M.2 SSDs to 2.5in SATA (6Gbps) RAID Adapter Converter with TRIM Support, with this adapter you can have 2 m.2 sata ssd on 1 sata 2.5 hdd adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/Dual-M-2-SATA-Adapter-RAID/dp/B018AOZ9QM

Other choice if your laptop have optical drive/dvd drive, you can remove that and use ssd sata using adapter. like this

https://www.amazon.com/HIGHROCK-Universal-Enclosure-DVD-ROM-Optical/dp/B0177AF7OO/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1539168794&sr=1-9&keywords=optical+drive+to+sata

Ah yes, then you would need a cable like this to attach the old removed disk via USB.

would something like this work? https://www.amazon.com/Molex-Computer-Connector-Y-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B00DU8ZZ0O

or does your fan have something else than a 3 pin connector?

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

https://smile.amazon.com/UGREEN-Adapter-Drive-Converter-Cable/dp/B00MYU0E0K

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

Yea dude, as Southern hinted at you need an 80 wire, 40 pin cable for the adapters. Get yourself one of those and you should be good.

I would recommend these cables https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003IDF0JC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hFv6yb3P246K5 as they are what I use and they are in stock. Also, 36 inches is kind of pushing it with the PATA considering the max cable length is 18 and 36 is double that.

Sorry bout formatting.

https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-90-Degree-Low-Profile-Connectors-CP11B-300/dp/B00KTLGDGA/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1473274582&sr=1-1&keywords=cp11b+300

This cable would be great inbetween.

Yep, that's the kind of cable you'd need, here's one in stock in a bit of a different form factor https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-6-Inch-Slimline-Adapter-SLSATAADAP6/dp/B009JXKQ9O/ref=pd_sim_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BVWF9961S8P8GQR4R25D, you would then plug in both SATA data to the motherboard and power to the PSU.

Note you won't have a place to mount it in a regular case either, so unless you're going to figure out your own mount solution you'd need a bay adapter such as that https://www.amazon.com/Syba-Adapter-Optical-Drive-Components/dp/B0081IOSOW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510203832&sr=8-1&keywords=5.25+slim+bay+adapter

Can also convert to external with one of these https://www.amazon.com/Firstcom-External-Enclosure-Optical-Blu-Ray/dp/B0151PHSNA/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1510204058&sr=1-3&keywords=usb+slim+odd


The cheaper option is to just get a regular desktop drive.

I'd recommend this one from StarTech. It supports TRIM while neither Ableconn nor JMicron (see JMS562 overview) doesn't say anything about TRIM.

The T5 was actually Samsung's first drive with their 64-layer TLC, which is also used in the 860 EVO and the last revision of the 850 EVO. It also uses the dual-core MGX controller found on the smaller SKUs of the 850 EVO. This is coupled with the ASMedia ASM235CM bridge chip which is found in many SATA-to-USB3.1 Gen 2 enclosures (example) as opposed to the older ASM1351 found on some cheaper adapters (example). So it's a solid device all-around but, yes, you could DIY.

I replaced it with [this] (https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesales-Ultra-Cable-Device-Conductor/dp/B000I21Y28/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1492923123&sr=8-2&keywords=ide+cable) and I can play emulators like normal. I am just having some issues with the disk drive now.

Unfortunately there's no way to repair that stuff but you don't really need it if it's just for case fans (i.e. not the CPU fan). You can use a SATA to fan header adapter cable like this:

https://www.amazon.com/CRJ-4-Pin-Sleeved-Power-Adapter/dp/B0711CR7HV

I am sure I'm referring to something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018AOZ9QM/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1ECQT5C0KY6S5&coliid=ICN2H4M41390H&psc=1

What exactly do you mean by a "standard SATA cable"? Something more like this where both ends are SATA connections? Where does the other end connect to?

Yeah you are not reading what the guy says. On v11 things changed, and you should now change. Just because something worked for the last 6 years doesn't make it indestructable. I agree on saving the SATA ports and that's why these are for sale: [USB to SATA](http://www.USB.com/ 3.0 auf SATA, BENFEI USB 3.0 zu SSD / 2,5-Zoll-SATA-Festplatten Adapter [Optimiert für SSD, Unterstützt UASP SATA III] https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07F7WDZGT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sdwQDbYGCD27F) just use the internal USB headers of you motherboard.

>switch her drive in for yours but if you have a second SSD slot you could put it into that one. Otherwise I would buy this: "
>
>https://www.amazon.com/BENFEI-Drive-Adapter-Cable-Compatible/dp/B07F7WDZGT/ref=sr\_1\_1\_sspa

Thank you! I will buy one and see if I can recover the homework

Yeah, if I was you (and I have one of these myself) this would be the solution to choose

https://www.amazon.com/CRJ-4-Pin-Sleeved-Power-Adapter/dp/B0711CR7HV/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523647201&sr=8-3&keywords=sata+fan+splitter

Yes to raid, the T440p does not support hardware raid, but I could software raid them. You cannot software raid the SSD where you have your OS. That said, I agree with the lack of Raid 0 value unless you are a video editor. If I were, I would have kept my large W540 and made a RAM drive instead. Can a PCIe SSD (future proof) work in a drive? Not speed wise, but is it compatible with this the Northstar

just buy a bare ssd drive, and get a startech usb 3.1 adapter cable for sata drives

then format the drive to the format you want

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-10Gbps-Adapter-Cable-Drives/dp/B00XLAZODE

i have a few of these cables. one for each of my drives that are in each stored in a small ziplock bag with the cable so I can just pick up one of these bags and run out the door. the cable works really nice. when you are using ssd drives, you don't need much protection. just plug the cable into the drive and into your laptop and go.

Thank you very much! I changed the case edition to the one you suggested and found myself a drive that fits in there. (Found this one)

You mentioned I might need a slimline to sata converter cable. Do I need this one or that one? (It's still the same mainboard as above (Link)

Didn't realize I need molex to 3 pin adapters for extra fans, can anyone tell if all of the ends of the cables on this adapter are male? are there any physical stores that sell these? Can I use the computer with only one fan connected to the mobo?

FWIW, if you're looking for an adapter just to look at or transfer data, here is an IDE/SATA adapter that I have used successfully on various drives.

Laptop: Just try the 600p. If it doesn't work, return it and buy an m.2 sata ssd.

Desktop: If your motherboard has enough pcie slots, you could buy m.2 to pcie adapters. They're compatible with both sata and nvme ssds.
If it has to be in the 2.5 drive format, this adapter is compatible with pretty much everything and this one can RAID 0/1 two of them.

If you literally want to run at maximum speed and for some reason can't configure your mobo to do what you want you can use something like this - https://www.amazon.com/CRJ-4-Pin-Sleeved-Power-Adapter/dp/B0711CR7HV

I got a new SSD without the sata to mobo connector.

​

Any real difference in connectors? was thinking of this and calling it a day(i think this is the cheapest and best reviews it gets?):

​

https://www.amazon.com/d/Scsi-Cables/Cable-Matters-3-Pack-Straight-SATA/B00KCS8ZUC?th=1

​

or I could just take the old one from my broken laptop...xD?

Yep, it would. I have an M1 with that exact same drive, it works fine.

Remember to get a slimline SATA power adapter for it.

Not all molded, but the majority of the adapters catching fire were molded.
Not sure on those particular adapters, but I do have some Startech 2xSATA to 1x6-pin Y adapters, that happen to be molded, in a mining rig that have been fine.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y91B80/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's possible I just got lucky.
I'm sure there are y-cables that are crimped, just possibly hard to find. Cable Matters does make a 1 to 4.
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Pack-Power-Splitter/dp/B012BPLW08

This, but did you already use all of the rest of the fan headers on your motherboard? There should be at least a couple... https://www.amazon.com/CRJ-4-Pin-Sleeved-Power-Adapter/dp/B0711CR7HV

I won't really get into why not to use USB, but...

There are various molex to 3 or 4-pin connector adapters that would probably be a better option.

ex: https://www.amazon.com/Electop-3-Pin-ATX-4-Pin-Molex/dp/B01MQ42KMV/

Maybe something like this? Has decent reviews, though I've never used one.

The sata interface has been proven up to 6tb drives so far. You run an external enclosure (that has esata) for the 3.5" drive. Then all you need is a male sata -> esata cable like this one: Link

Not saying it will look all pretty once complete, but possible.

I found somes molex cable where you plug your fan to the psu. Are these a option?

https://www.amazon.ca/Electop-3-Pin-ATX-4-Pin-Molex/dp/B01MQ42KMV/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=molex+to+3+pin+fan&qid=1562185145&s=gateway&sprefix=molex+&sr=8-3

You will need to reinstall windows and drivers on the new SATA drive if you want to use it as your primary boot device on your old mobo. I would recommend that you use that drive on your new motherboard, boot from it (as it's already configured forthe new system).

You can connect your old IDE HDD to the new system by using this IDE to SATA converter.

I wouldn't buy a used hard drive.

I like Seagate drives, but any SATA drive should work with:

THIS CABLE: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I21Y28/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

AND THIS ADAPTER: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EOJNGC2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yes Ultra ATA 100/133 IDE Cable, 2 Device, IDC 40 (80 Conductor), 24 inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I21Y28?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

This is the ide I bought

don’t give up yet, the disk is likely to be still good. you’ll need to remove it (taking precautions against static) and plug it into another computer using a cable like this:

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B000VS4HDM

(the exact cable you need depends on the disk interface but this cable does the 2 most common by far)

The pcie connector only provides 12v. So you should be able to find a 12v psu and wire it to a pcie connector. For an inexpensive quality power supply I'd go with a Mean Well unit. Maybe this and wire it to something like this.

This may actually be ideal because cheaper pc psus might not appropriately handle the crossload. This has good details about the pcie connector so you don't wire something up wrong which would certainly lead to catastrophic failure.

https://www.amazon.com/CRJ-4-Pin-Sleeved-Power-Adapter/dp/B0711CR7HV/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=sata+fan+adapter&qid=1563473286&s=gateway&sr=8-3

That should help. My plan was to get that adapter + 2 corsair or noctua fans.

This will allow your PSU to turn on without a mobo.
https://www.amazon.com/CRJ-24-Pin-Supply-Jumper-Bridge/dp/B01N8Q0TOE
A lesser known but significant issue is that you don't want to mix and match cables from different power supply brands and sometimes even different power supplies of the same brand, it could possibly fry your HDD. These cables can be tough to find and order separately, so I just use a power splitter extension instead.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0086OGN9E/
Some other things below for fans that I used for mine, but you might already have stuff laying around. You'll also need a molex to 4 pin or you could opt for a fan power supply to wall outlet, only if you don't overload the 2A.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075NPZ94N/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0763FGH6S/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQ42KMV/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071V9CQ5H/
You'll also need to buy 2x SSFF port for the R5 box and your main, plus extra SFF-8088 cables (1m-2m length), this starts $$$ adding up fast unless you can place both devices very close and snake the SFF-8087 forward breakout cables through the R5 case then through the main system case to the HBA unless you have a card with external 8087s. I haven't seen any SFF-8087 forward breakout cables longer than 3.3ft though and you'll probably have these both connected internally so these boxes will have to be right next to each other...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GPD9QEQ/
I didnt search extensively, but I did see a SFF-8088 to sata 6ft cable, but it had no reviews and the title showed 8087(maybe so it gets noticed on search results), but the description was correct as 8088. Depending on your card then this might be an option. This is where nas boxes come in with network connections for farther distances or you invest in all these cables and adaptors so it doesn't look janky with cables snaking in and out of the cases.

You're probably looking to an IDE to USB adapter, like this: https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-SATA-Combo-Adapter-Inches/dp/B000VS4HDM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462242915&sr=8-1&keywords=IDE+to+USB

try using an 80 wire ide cable like this one

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003IDF0JC?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATPCIEXADAP-6-Inch-Express-Adapter/dp/B007Y91B80

If your PSU doesn't have one you may need something like this.

Might this cable fit under the GPU?

There are ones like these:

• https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Lateral-Low-Profile-Connectors-CP11/dp/B00HDEBGSQ
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-90-Degree-Low-Profile-Connectors-CP11B-300/dp/B00KTLGDGA
  
• https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-SST-CP11B-500-Low-Profile-Connectors/dp/B00KTLGDZG

Would something like this work?

I wouldn't use an external HDD at USB 2.0 for any installed programs as its limited to 0.5 Gbits/sec, but just watching media or speed-insensitive storage it should be fine. Grab a 3.0 drive anyway if you can swing it, since you'll eventually upgrade your mobo anyway.

Something like this should work for you:

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Adapter-Drive-Converter-Cable/dp/B00MYU0E0K/

Right now im thinking of just getting a few of these an some samsung 850 evos and throwing them on a usb hub. seems like the cheapest way to get 500MB/s+ speeds https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-10Gbps-Adapter-Cable-Drives/dp/B00XLAZODE?th=1

sounds like you want a 2.5 sata to usb.
StarTech.com USB 3.1 (10Gbps) Adapter Cable for 2.5" SATA SSD/HDD Drives - Supports SATA III (6 Gbps) - USB Powered https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XLAZODE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_49ObBbS3Q30K4

Simple and cheap for around 10-15 on the lowend. When. you attach the hdd, you should be able to mount it just like a usb. or if you are running linux, mount and use the ntfs type, assuming your dead laptop was running windows.

You'll need an adapter like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07F7WDZGT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_5sc1CbGFP2G25

If you want to pull info off your old hard drive you could use a device like this www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MYU0E0K/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stppvp_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1527504182&sr=2&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=2056238293673378570&pd_rd_wg=9VWFP&pf_rd_r=B7R4Q4FPDRJA7QJM7F7N&pf_rd_s=mobile-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=9701&pd_rd_i=B00MYU0E0K&pd_rd_w=KJ9Zf&pf_rd_i=hdd+reader&pd_rd_r=ead5ea35-1570-489e-959a-4349dcae8d94&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65

There are adapters, and there are these little things you can buy that allow you to copy the contents of an IDE drive to SATA

Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/SYBA-ATA133-Bi-Directional-Adapter-SD-ADA50016/dp/B002OEBO6E/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1496430917&sr=1-6&keywords=ide+to+sata

or this:

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Bi-Directional-Adapter-Converter-PATA2SATA3/dp/B00310MFPY/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1496430980&sr=1-5&keywords=ide+to+sata+co

I dont know how well they work, but if you just search around for "IDE to SATA" you can probably find something that will work for you.

This may work http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-PCIEXSPLIT6-6-Inch-Express-Splitter/dp/B004NNTVT6

I do not know anything about trying this though. Once again, I think this may just be a short term solution.

How about something like this instead? No need for an enclosure perhaps:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-10Gbps-Adapter-Cable-Drives/dp/B00XLAZODE/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=SATA+to+USB+Cable&qid=1565235845&s=gateway&sr=8-10

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-USB-Cable-USB3S2SAT3CB/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=SATA+to+USB+Cable&qid=1565218171&s=gateway&sr=8-3

But I guess if you think an enclosure is better, I'll probably grab this one:https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-Enclosure-External-Adapter-Housing/dp/B07D2BHVBD/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=SSD+external+enclosure&qid=1565214839&s=gateway&sr=8-4And just tape over the LED or somethin'

I think enclosures support TRIM while SATA to USB adapters don't but it sounds like no one uses/gives a fuck about TRIM anymore. I imagine both of those solutions should work.

Silverstone Tek Ultra Thin Lateral 90 Degree SATA Cables with Custom Low-Profile Connectors (CP11) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HDEBGSQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6IzYCbNYHX5VD

If something like this doesn't work, then I'm not sure what else you can do.

I've got this, and it works well.

https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-SATA-Combo-Adapter-Inches/dp/B000VS4HDM/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1478712962&sr=1-1&keywords=ide+usb

Here’s the one I got, works fine!

CableWholesale Ultra ATA 100/133 IDE Cable, 2 Device, IDC 40 (80 Conductor), 24 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I21Y28/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hGoSDb2C5G1MF

These two have been confirmed to work by a few people with no issues that I've heard of: Ebay or Amazon

Personally, I use the ebay one. $40 is waaay too much for an adapter. Oh and here's a good 80 pin cable to go with it.

http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/xfx-power-supply-p1550sxxb9

>I don't want to have to waste a ton of money tracking down the person who submitted the psu and shove it down their throat

Mwahahaah

What PSU did you buy?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BaTpiFh8Ivg

If you have 2 free molex

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812200106

or 2 SATA power

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATPCIEXADAP-6-Inch-Express-Adapter/dp/B007Y91B80

From what I read on the corsair website about that case, you could install it on the side panel as an intake for your gpu's or mount it on the top of the case as an exhaust. As for the motherboard headers, you can purchase a molex to fan adapter cable. They are relatively inexpensive. [Adapter | Amazon] (http://www.amazon.com/Molex-Computer-Connector-Y-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B00DU8ZZ0O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1456925924&sr=8-1&keywords=molex+fan+adapter)

Your PSU should have enough sata power cables to supply power to all three drives (SSD, HDD, optical).

Your motherboard should come with some sata data cables. Usually a minimum of 2. If you're short, order additional SATA III cables that are long enough for your case (to reach from motherboard SATA ports to where the drives are mounted).

Here's the first one that came up on Amazon, a 3-pack of 18" cables.

Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Electop-3-Pin-ATX-4-Pin-Molex/dp/B01MQ42KMV/

3-pin will still work for 4-pin PWM fans, but will always be at 100% speed.

Ok so, either you can buy a ready to go external hard drive or you can use a standard hard drive + a little sata to usb adapter

Since the computers at your school are Apple you would need to install the macos version of C4D on the drive, but it's still doable.

I recently put in a Seasonic Focus Plus 850 W Platinum without any major problems. There were 2 things I encountered 1) next to the Pcie slot is an 8/4 connector that’s labeled CPU/GFX. luckily the Seasonic came with several breakaway cables 6+2, 4+4, etc. So I didn’t have a problem having a cable to match; and 2) my mini bd player has only a mini sized sata that fits. And that’s NOT in the Seasonic box. But (simply) I bought a power jack/mini sata combo from Amazon. You just plug the mini into the bd player and the normal sized cables in the other end.

All worked the first time (although wire dressing is a mess with all those netted/heat shrunk cables).

In case you have a bd/dvd and want to change out the PSU, the mini power/sata cable is here:

StarTech.com 6” inline SATA to SATA Adapter with Power - Slim SATA (F) to SATA (M) - Slimline Serial ATA to SATA

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009JXKQ9O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lu68Bb7FKA8S9

24 inch length is the one you want. This is the one I got and a lot of the reviews mention Xboxs too. https://amazon.com/gp/product/B000I21Y28/

This will show you how to fold it properly:

http://web-nine.com/projects/xbox/ide/

No, that's dangerous. Usually a double Molex to PCIE adapter is used, but your PSU doesn't have two Molex. Try this (make sure you have two unused SATA connectors).

Granted these are pretty pricey but I use them in my ITX rig. Works fine and very low profile.

http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-90-Degree-Low-Profile-Connectors-CP11B-300/dp/B00KTLGDGA

Absolutely! And to piggyback on your comment I've used one of these for years on tons of drives

I imagine OP is refereing to this device which comes with both a USB SATA/IDE and 4pin Molex adapter.

What do you have in disk management, and how do you know the drive is in working order?

Then consider using a utility to clone the HDD to the SSD. Samsung includes a Data Migration utility that works awesomely. The catch would be that you need a way to connect the new drive to the computer while the old one is still running. One option is one of these.

Found this adapter to make the drive register as SATA

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002OEBO6E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_arjBCbZEZ2FNS

24" 40-Pin 80-Wire Ultra ATA 2-Drive Ribbon Cable, Manhattan 332781 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003IDF0JC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6ipYCb2XZTCHP

This is what I ordered, it just arived today.

Would these all work in upgrading the HDD?

[HDD on Amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-500GB-Drive-WD5000AAKX-60U6AA0/dp/B00Y3DSLD8/ref=asc_df_B00Y3DSLD8/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309707619534&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3327621541450996635&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9060058&hvtargid=pla-569717086723&psc=1)

40pin 80wire ribbon cable

IDE-SATA Adapter


Molex Y splitter

cable I use myself

You will need to replace the stock IDE cable with an 80 wire IDE cable too, but other than that, you're set.

Is this also an option http://www.amazon.co.uk/Startech-com-Express-Power-Splitter-Cable/dp/B004NNTVT6 ?

that really helped. i did a bit of digging on ebay and i was wondering if this would work too.

Use some of those sata power plugs and get some of these:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATPCIEXADAP-6-Inch-Express-Adapter/dp/B007Y91B80/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1500042074&sr=8-3&keywords=pcie+power+cable

The CD drive is likely slimline sata. You can get an adapter

It's a slimline drive, which uses a physically smaller connector. You will need an adapter, such as: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Slimline-SATA-Adapter-Power/dp/B009JXKQ9O/

Slimline Sata adapter.

I just build with one in my HTPC the other day:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009JXKQ9O/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009JXKQ9O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Get one of these.

https://smile.amazon.com/Molex-Computer-Connector-Y-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B00DU8ZZ0O

https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Lateral-Low-Profile-Connectors-CP11/dp/B00HDEBGSQ were these the cable you end up getting?

Saw these on LinusTechTips the other day...
http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Tek-Low-Profile-Connectors-CP11/dp/B00HDEBGSQ