(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best screwdriver bits

I got them at Sears, but you can also find them on Amazon and many other tool retailers.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002STST4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mE1mzb4FHCNG2

They're made by Lisle, red and black. Kind of pricey but they're very well made and IMO the best socet storage solution on the market

Bug spray!

Other than that, I have a Milwaukee 11-in-1 that's been absolutely indispensable (but if you're going to get them that, get the matching bottle opener), to the point that when I get to a call and realize I've left it behind, I'll run back and get it after I limp through the call.

Also-
This flashlight is fucking awesome. Wickedly bright, very strong magnet, but it chews through the AAs if you use it primarily on high. The red strobe is useless, though.

These nut drivers for the cordless impact are my mainstay. They're a bit longer than a standard nut driver, but the magnet bit slides out so you can easily clean the metal schmoo out that can get stuck inside and make driving screws pretty difficult.

And finally, batteries. We run on batteries- AAs, AAAs, and 9-volters especially. Nobody will ever turn down batteries.

I'm starting to get into maintenance as well, and as you've realized it's difficult to know where to start. Do you start with a big all-in-one set or a small set?

For people like me who had to start from scratch, I highly recommend starting with a small quality kit like:

• Bahco 2330 Socket Set
  
  From here, buy as needed. A lot of people recommend against buying big socket sets because you end up never using many components. You'll never really regret buying a high quality small set like the Bahco. It has mostly everything you need to do small maintenance. For example, you can also pick up this handy hex socket set
  
  
• Silverline Hex Bit Set
  
  for £4 and that'll cover all of the hex needs. I didn't know I needed this hex set until I tried to remove my bar ends and realized you needed a gigantic hex size that wouldn't have been included in most all-in-one sets, anyways.
  
  Another tip is for you to begin to keep a spreadsheet whenever you touch a bolt or screw or need a tool. This way you'll quickly learn what are the important sizes you need, and this will especially help when you need to travel or tour with tools.

the bit driver recommended here is great. If you for whatever reason decide to not go the bit driver way - i really recommend the screwdriver set that I have.

Wera Kraftform Kompakt 60 RA Ratcheting Screwdriver Set, 17-Piece

http://www.amazon.com/Wera-Kraftform-Ratcheting-Screwdriver-17-Piece/dp/B004VMWZ0Q/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=0B486QPRPE9DVH9GCWER

fine tooth ratcheting, effortless screwdriver change, nice compact carry case - if you want to drive a bit with it - throw one of these into the extra elastic pouch inside the kit:

Wera Bit extension

http://www.amazon.com/Wera-Hexagon-Standard-Rapidaptor-Universal/dp/B003KN3FK6/ref=pd_sim_indust_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0TN8K44TPK8AC7T10KR7

Pilot screws and idle mixture are the same thing.

I have never heard of renting carb sync gauges.

There are plenty of good tutorials for servicing carbs on Youtube. Work clean. Get JIS screwdriver bits if you need them. Good sync gauges and a right angle ratcheting screwdriver help. Like this. https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-degree-Driver-08-0229/dp/B000WJFJDC

I use this sync tool. http://www.carbtune.com/carbdtls.html You can build you own sync tool like this. http://wiki.gstwins.com/index.php?n=Maintenance.5CarbSync

Is the bike running well otherwise? I might be tempted to drop that float bowl since it is on the end. Shoot some aerosol carb cleaner up into the pilot jet and reassemble.

I know you are probably looking to carry around more than sockets, but I have a bunch of these except mine have handles, and they have been great. So much better than the plastic box setup.

Apparently Polaroid had a custom screwdriver for those as well as a special tool to remove the pins from the hinges. Some of the people still doing SX-70 repair today are lucky enough to have those.

I was in the same situation when I was trying to remove the shutter assembly on a sonar model a while back. You've got a couple of options:

1). The expensive option is a driver machined specifically to these 1mm square screws. They can be bought on eBay for about $130.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1mm-x-1mm-Square-Screwdriver-for-Repair-Polaroid-SX-70/382885120791?hash=item5925bb4b17:g:1sMAAOxyhPxRENbe

2). Some have made their own version from a larger screwdriver head using a Dremel tool or even hand filing it down.

3). What I ended up using was a #6 spanner bit after seeing someone else have success with them. A little bit of trial and error filing will get one tip of the bit to the right size (you'll also need to shave down the other tip or it will get in the way). Here's what I bought, though you could probably find the right size at a hardware store too:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JLZ3B86/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I managed to get 3 screws off without a problem, but I ended up stripping the 4th because it was pretty tight and difficult to get a good angle on. I really wish Polaroid stuck to the Torx screws on later SX-70 models...

Yep. (But what if the obstructions were infinitely long? I would love to come at it from an arbitrary angle...)

I understand now the physicality of building an adapter that redirects torque at an arbitrary angle in a reliable fashion is difficult. I'm most likely going to pick up one of those lightweight DeWalt pivoting adapters available at a good price. They seem to match my needs the closest, but my heart will always yearn for a heavy-duty match for my arbitrary light-duty needs.

Square bit could work but may be best to use the proper double square bits like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/VEGA-Double-Square-Professional-150DS02A-3/dp/B07D8SXQZ4

If your local hardware store or Lowes, Home Depot doesn't have what you need, you can always order them. If it's super tiny and you can't find that bit, you can always use the included allen key, but use the short end, as soon as the wrench starts to flex, that's enough. It's the loctite's job to hold the fastener, not brute force. Also, loctite needs 24hrs to fully cure.

EDIT: like these, and Wiha makes good stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-72596-Piece-Hex-Insert/dp/B01BXBWXW2/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=hex+bit+set+SAE&qid=1568421099&s=gateway&sr=8-8

The 11-1s ARE great IMO

I try to carry minimal tools in my pouch. Channel locks work instead of nut drivers in some instances. A set of impact drive nut drivers replace more expensive and heavier screwdriver handle nut drivers. I owned cheap nut drivers (Mastercraft) and threw them in my garage because I don't need them. A tiny pack of impact nut drivers like this replace a whole bunch of heavier tools.

I only carry a few wrenches in my bag. 7/16, 1/2 and 9/16 and an adjustable. I rarely use them. Channel locks often do the same job.

Needle nose I own but they stay in my bag.

Try and get a big tool bag on wheels and roll it around to your work area then just wear a light pouch or keep tools in your pockets. I'm still looking for the perfect bags or box, maybe one of those stacking hard case style things on wheels.

I tried using the fancy klein needle nose I bought as an electricians multi-tool... they strip, they have slightly wider then normal teeth, I thought maybe I could strip wire and splice with them. Meh not so much. My old Milwaukee linemen had #12 strippers and I can't remember, maybe #10 as well. I didn't use them a lot but that's handy. Although my strippers are probably the lightest tool I own so I don't mind carrying a good set. But even still they don't stay in my pouch if I'm just running conduit all day.

well for your side missile there is a legit bit holder from dewalt that screws in there, but that top one is one isn't something i've seen.

Edit: a bit more amazon shopping reveals this fucking monstrosity lol

as a mechanic i prefer my own tools. mainly preference and quality. my job has a tool allowance after 1 year full time. your impact choice is fine but you need a battery and charger. i would get snap on hex bits. snap on will replace the hex bit if they get worn. good fitting hex bits are really important. if the tips get worn grind them down(use water as you grind) or replace.

for t25 torx get some of these impact ready bits. home depot or lowes will have a dewalt or milwaukee 5 pack for 10 bucks maybe http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWA2TX25IRB-2-Inch-FlexTorq-50-Pack/dp/B00GJN7ZEQ

for the 1/4 to 3/8 square drive get the impact ready version of the same at HD or lowes

It's easy as long as you have a T9 Torx bit. Here's a guide for you to follow:

https://m.imgur.com/gallery/UGxHR

And here's a nice bit set that I have with a good variety of small bits:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SXF68IW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wIDXCbNW4MREA

That would be perfect if they locked in.

Any idea if these are good?

http://www.amazon.ca/DEWALT-DW2542-4-Inch-8-Inch-Adapter/dp/B0000225P5
They work... Kinda. You really can't get great torque but they work great for hex head screws and such. Generally people recommend staying away from them.

I'm a big fan of Wera bits. This one is awesome. http://www.amazon.com/Wera-BiTorsion-Diamond-Rapidaptor-Bit-Check/dp/B001552IHM/ref=sr_1_29?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1451658620&sr=1-29&keywords=wera

I dont know of any magnetic impact bits, but I have one of these and it essentially makes the bits super magnetic.

Tool change to T0, which should empty the spindle and clear out the active tool offset. Double check to confirm that the tool offset is no longer active.

Jog the spindle down until you can just barely slide a 1-2-3 block (or anything flat and square) between the spindle face and table. You will want to make sure the table and spindle face are nice and clean.

Without moving the spindle, tab over to the Set WO page, and and press the Z=0 softkey. Your current position should now be Z0.

Jog the spindle up in Z, and manually load a tool in the spindle. Bring the spindle down in Z, again until you can just barely slide the 1-2-3 block in between the tool and table.

The position that Z is reading at this point is the gage length of your tool. Tab over to the offset page, and put this length in the Geometry field. Repeat as necessary to measure your tools.

FYI The 1-2-3 block could also be replaced with something like this for greater accuracy. https://www.amazon.com/Pre-setter-Setter-Router-0-005mm-Magnetic/dp/B00O67AKK8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536510059&sr=8-1&keywords=tool+presetter

I have a few of the multibit drivers; a couple by wera, a williams, a cheap rubbermaid, and a stubby bahco.

After using them all, I prefer this one, with one of these, and a bit kit I piece together myself. My bit kits has phillips, robertson (my most used), 1/4" and 3/8" ratchet adapters and a 6" extension. A bit more pricey than an all in one driver, but I like having only the bits I'll use.

That said, the other wera screwdriver I have or the williams would be my first choices when buying an all in one driver. Note that they're all ratcheting drivers; that's a feature I can't live without.

I bought this set in February and use them daily in a Bosch electric driver for appliance repair. They've held up well.

Tonsiki 11 Pieces 1/4 Inch Hex Shank T6-T40 3 Inch Length S2 Steel Torx Security Hea... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MFGRZIA/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_UN9Uzb42CY4PF

you need the security bit set to tighten the base screws of the one on the right. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFGRZIA

and then you'll need some kind of handle for the bits. this would work, but I use a T-handle for the bigger bits. This is the handle I use for the smaller bit for the handlebars, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015IBJP3I

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-1885-4-Inch-8-Inch-3-Piece/dp/B000NPUJQC

They don't have to be expensive.