Reddit mentions: The best side-cutting pliers

What kind of experience are you guys coming into this with?

Do you have mentors/are you yourselves familiar with the use and safety precautions necessary around power tools?

What kind of space are you in? Do you have a dedicated space to use or do you need to move things in and out of an area every meeting?

How much do you want to learn? Are you planning on using primarily Matrix/Tetrix this season or do you want to do custom fabrication?

If you're planning on using chain, I'd recommend getting at least one of these (Dark Soul #25 chain tool). You won't need to use master links again, and they're just in general great to have around.

I would definitely recommend getting Anderson Powerpole tools and items. Definitely get a TriCrimp and associated wire, connectors, and contacts, if you don't have them already.

I'd also recommend a few tools that come in useful just in general when it comes to FTC-- a good adjustable wrench is good to have around, whether you're doing custom or not. A ratcheting screwdriver is also good to have around, in addition to more standard versions. I'd also recommend my personal favorite allen wrenches (you can get just metric or standard sets, but I linked the paired version). For taking care of stuck bolts or anything else stuck, a good pair of locking pliers are also great. Also getting some good pliers for all your electrical needs is a good idea. Also extremely useful is a good square. On a similar note, a level is good for checking whether you actually bolted that part on straight.

You should also get a general set of combo wrenches and some of the specific sizes most common for FTC. Pretty much any reputable brand is fine for this-- don't spend more than about $50 for a set and $10 for an individual wrench (honestly, that would be super high, you should probably target half of that). A decent ratchet set is also good, but not absolutely essential.

Other good things to have around are a heat gun or heat bar (for doing custom plastic parts for your robot). You can do some great stuff with some creativity and some sheet polycarbonate.

To go with that, a vinyl cutter is great for doing sponsor decals and general cool stuff.

As far as "essentials" go, that depends on where you want to go. If you want to do lots of custom work-- or use something like 80/20, then you'll want some other tools to do that work. A good power drill is absolutely essential, and if you have the space, I'd definitely recommend getting a solid miter saw and an aluminum cutting blade (I know some people consider them too dangerous, but with proper safety training and precautions, I've never had a student or mentor get injured with one).

As far as materials for doing custom work go, I'd recommend getting some box aluminum (1x1 and 1x2) tubing, 1/8" and 1/16" polycarbonate (I'm partial to the dark tinted stuff, but it's a bit more expensive), and a full assortment of #6 and maybe #8 hardware. You'll also want some M3 screws for face mounting AndyMark and REV robotics motors. I like to use Copper State for this, because while they have a totally garbage web ordering system, their prices are great, and their website isn't that bad (to be honest, I'm a bit spoiled by McMaster-Carr).

You probably don't need me to tell you what kind of COTS parts might be good (if that's within the scope of this money). Electronics, good phones (not those stupid ZTEs), motors, are all good.


You'll notice that I'm not suggesting the very budget stuff-- while you can go that direction if you need to, quality tools help you get quality results. If you have the money to get and use the right tools for the job, I always recommend doing that as opposed to cheaping out with something you'll just end up breaking and messing up your robot with later.

A decent chunk of the tools I linked are suggested by my personal favorite review site, The WireCutter/SweetHome. I've used the majority of them, and my experience has been good enough that I don't have an issue recommending their suggestions for other tools relevant to FTC.

Hopefully that was somewhat helpful. I'd definitely consider the answers to the questions at the top-- they can help you narrow down what will actually be useful for you. I can definitely give more specific suggestions if you know what direction you're taking with robot building techniques and how much space you have/ whether you have to move.

>Man, I’m too young to have ever messed with stuff like that

me too, i was born long after all of that happend, which makes it even easier today to do projects with old hardware.

>I would have an amazing time with some 8/16 bit stuff!!!

you can easily buy all parts of an IBM PC today (or any custom 8/16 bit computer like i did, though i did easily get stuck on writting software for it)

.

For an IBM PC, you just need the schematics of the motherboard (and all required daughter boards), make it into a PCB design, order it, buy the chips and other components, solder it, put a BIOS into the FLASH/ROM Chips, and somehow boot (SD Card or something as a replacement for a harddrive)

the rather difficult parts are going to be the Video output (which would probably be an FPGA outputting MDA/CGA video over a VGA Port), the keyboard and harddrive controller chips can just be replaced by a 20MHz AtMega, which is fast enough to handle a PS/2 Keyboard and an SD Card.

.

if you do it right you should have a remake of an original IBM PC (but with a much faster "harddrive") that should be able to run all IBM PC Compatible software

.

so, this is just an example for what it takes to make a very simple 8 bit computer for around 100 USD (if you start with no tools or anything):

• 1x CPU, something like a Z80 (which is still being made to this day), 5 USD
  
• 1x RAM, (32kB) should be enough, 2.5 USD
  
• 1x ROM (FLASH), (128kB, 32kB used) this is what holds the actual program... basically like RAM but can only be read from (can be programmed), 1.3 USD
  
• 2x? PLD, Programmable logic Devices, they just save a lot of wiring and space, require an EEPROM Programmer though, 2.3 USD
  
• 4x? Breadboards, this is where your put the componenets on, 6 USD/board (price may vary, maybe your find a better deal)
  
• 1x Wire (set), i mean you need to connect the chips somehow, price varies... best to buy a set like this
  
• 1x EEPROM Programmer, a device used to write data to the ROM Chip and a lot of other Chips, like PLDs, price varies, one of the best ones you can get is the TL866II Plus... expensive (~50 USD) but worth it if you really want to get into projects like this
  
• 1x Interface device, basically a way to send data from your Modern computer to your 8 bit Computer and vise versa. there are chips specifically for this but they can be expensive (UM245R, ~20-40 USD), so a cheaper way is to use something like a (pre soldered) Arduino Nano (~2 USD) and programming it to handle the communication
  
• 1x "Dosen Jokari" no idea what the english name is, but this thing is pretty awesome, it's used to strip the insulation off wires, no idea why but this thing makes stripping these small wires much easier than any regular wirestripper can do, price varies, try to find one of these
  
• 1x wirecutter, simple tool, like scissors but for wires, price varies, can be from ~5 USD to ~20 USD, even found one that has a build-in wire stripper for 15 USD in case you don't want to buy 2 tools
  
• 100x knowledge, you need to know how to use google to see how each of these things work, Digikey has all datasheets listed so for those parts it's easy but you would still need to look up and learn how to use each software and even write programs for this CPU
  
  .
  
  like I'm pretty sure to just order all of that was not possible when these Computers were brand new, mostly because of the price, and nowadays it's a DIY Project anyone can do (if they're interested), have the time and 100 Bucks to spare.
  
  i just find this amazing!

As someone working through this but a few years ahead of you, I'll pass along the list of stuff I've bought and/or wish to buy...

Hand Tools

1. You say you have screwdrivers, but ifs worthwhile to have a full complement of them. You might consider getting a hand tool set like this one. Also, diagonals. Can't stress that enough. Eventually, you might upgrade a lot of these, but it'll get you started.
   
   
2. Ratcheting wrenches, along these lines. Conventional wrenches are functional, but these are much more so.
   
   
3. Ratcheting hex key set. In fact, this one looks good. If you have any Ikea furniture in your future, these will be worth their weight in guld.
   
   
4. Maybe a vise. That particular vice is mid-priced, but you can find well-reviewed vises at just about any price point.
   
   
5. A good range of sand paper grits: 80, 100, 120, 150, 180. You might also pick up a sanding sponge.
   
   Power Tools
   
   
6. A Dremel
   
   
7. Maybe an electric circular saw or a jigsaw. I really don't know which I'd prioritize, but you should probably have at least one of them.
   
   
8. If there's money left over in your budget, I'd suggest a random orbit sander.
   
   
9. A drill press
   
   Also, there are fluids to consider
   
   
10. Simple Green
    
    
11. Penetrating oil
    
    
12. Wood Glue
    
    
13. Mineral Spirits
    
    
14. Linseed Oil
    
    Of these, I'd focus on the hand tools, fluids, and the Dremel. You can always ask someone to buy you a saw for Christmas. If you have these things on hand, there probably won't be a job come along that you can't handle at some basic level. I'm assuming you don't need yard grooming tools, because that's an entirely different list.

Here are some links. Most of these are things that if someone had, they wouldn't mind having doubles or whatever. Most of them I own or have used and liked. Many of them can be found at big box stores but all of these should contain brand and picture..

Like, the utility knife is a particular one that is really nice, both brand and style. Super handy for cutting thick insulation.

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWHT10045-Single-Blade-Snap-Off/dp/B0051QIA3C

Can't go wrong with knipex cutters. Anything knipex is pretty good. Without knowing more details on what they are into, this is a decent all rounder.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000X4MPAQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1418895942&sr=8-2&dpPl=1&dpID=31TAs95wNXL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

Things always need oiling. Hinges and ball bearings and stuff.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KKHNU0
(Plus)
http://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Kroil-Penetrating-Lube-Aerosol/dp/B00EINDJSU/

One screwdriver that serves many functions in one small, cheap package:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_170991-86580-SF14_4294857608__?productId=1221941

A tape measure that has the decimal / fractional written on it. I can read a normal one, but I find work with my Lufkin more accurate and less transposed bits.

http://www.amazon.com/Lufkin-QRL625MP-Vertical-1-Inch-25-Feet/dp/B004R1JPEA/

Ball end metric allen wrenches with screwdriver handles. They make many sets ( standard, etc)

http://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-10687-Balldriver-Screwdrivers-ProGuard/dp/B0006O4ADI

These clamps are decent and cheap for both woodworking and metalworking. Irwin is a nice namebrand but it's a lot more money for just a clamp.

http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/clamps/11-inch-swivel-pad-lock-grip-pliers-39535.html

Metalworking with flat stock.. you often have some holes that need to be drilled from a template to a thing. These center in the hole and transfer the marks. (Using the clamp helps too)
http://www.harborfreight.com/28-piece-transfer-punch-set-3577.html

Good quality headlamp with a red mode. I like the red mode for outdoorsy things. Non red mode lamp people are jerks when they turn and talk at you and blow your night vision.
http://www.rei.com/product/866955/petzl-tactikka-plus-headlamp

Knipex for Lineman's pliers: (with or without crimper). Their grip and cutting edge are significantly better than any other brand I've tried.

Wera for screwdrivers: I recommend the XXL 3 set. For sale here.

I still like Klein for strippers. I use the Kurve everyday and the Katapult for wire with thick insulation like PV wire.

Fluke for your meter. Most people recommend the T5 for basic stuff, but the 323 has a proper clamp and removable leads for the same price.

Knipex Cobras for your channel lock style pliers. These are absurdly good and have saved my ass a couple times.

I also recommend buying a Knipex Pliers Wrench. I own a 7-inch and a 10-inch pair and they're way better than a traditional adjustable wrench.

Stanley newest Leverlock tape measures are just as good as Milwaukee's tape and less bulky for half the price.

Milwaukee's Fastback series are the best utility knives by a pretty wide margin. I use the compact one, but that's a matter a preference.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I noticed a glaring omission from your coffers.

Lineman's pliers, I'd recommend these Channellock's, or if you have a few dollars more their Code Blue line. They also have models with fishtape pullers if you need them.

Other things you could probably use are a good pair of wire nips. You won't find a better value than these Hakkos, A non-marring hammer/deadblow hammer is quite handy to have around. A pair of needlenose pliers. A variety of precision screwdrivers or an encompassing bit set, I like this Tekton Everybit set (confession, mine was a gift from Tekton rather recently but it is still an honest opinion)..

And where are your safety glasses, hmm?

BTW That is a nice selection of tools, this isn't really criticism, just trying to think of things you might find useful that you don't already have...

Every shop is an extension of the philosophy of the person using it. As for tools, everyone finds their own level. A friend of mine uses a jigsaw multiple times per day, where I only pull mine out once a week. We make much the same kind of things. I advocate buying inexpensive versions of tools you think might be useful to you. When they prove useful, go ahead and invest in the best version you can afford- it will last for years, if not decades. I'm amazed at how often I use my hardened jaw Knipex nippers:
https://www.amazon.com/7401250SBA-10-Inch-Leverage-Diagonal-Cutters/dp/B000X4MPAQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1466548721&sr=1-2&keywords=knipex

Cuts through piano wire all day long and don't dent. Cuts through coat hangar wire (one of my favorite materials on the planet) like it's butter.

Good luck!

You would be better off making your own. I've found that a lot of the sets are cheap.

Here's my take on it.

1.Cable tester:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d
/B000P1OA1O?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412645606&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

Simple cat5 tester, cheap and works decently.

2. Cable stripper:

Here I've given two options, one is a spinning stripper made for things like taking the jacket off cat5, the second is a more of an electrical stripper for a bunch of gauges of wire with cutters at the back side. If your comfortable with it you can use the cutters to strip just about anything.

2.a http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0099DIV4G?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412645735&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

2.b. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00080DPNQ?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412645735&sr=8-12#ref=mp_s_a_1_12

3.punchdown tool :
If your in a spot where you get to do punchdowns it's nice to have, they are cheap and work well,

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KMFDZ0?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1412646040&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

4. Cat 5 ends:
Always keep plenty of these, a bag of them is cheap and you will be glad you have them.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003M5BIII?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412646222&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

5: crimper:

Never underestimate a good crimper. I have had no luck with the cutting portion of them but that's why I have other tools.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000AZK4G?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1412646393&sr=8-2#ref=mp_s_a_1_2

6. #2 philps head.
I like ratcheting screw drivers with multiple heads but this is easily the most used screwdriver in my set.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NNK9MS?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412646575&sr=8-5#ref=mp_s_a_1_5

The flat head out of this set is also nice, depending on your bag keep them all handy.


Everything beyond this point is optional or situational.

8. Power supply tester: if you do any sort of computer repair these are very handy to hold on to.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001MKCALY?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412646902&sr=8-3#ref=mp_s_a_1_3

9. Tweaker: good for laptop repair or if you deal with any sort of building controllers/ low voltage electrical.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0058I6VNE?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1412647026&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

I also have a similar sized Philips head screw driver but I use it much less frequently.

10. Electrical tape: some people say it's for those who mess up doing electrical, I call it insurance.

11. Linemans: I use mine to crimp chicklets mostly but they come in handy a lot. I couldn't find the exact ones I use b

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000A0S4XK?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412647275&sr=8-4#ref=mp_s_a_1_4


12: a bag:
Personally, I use an old back pack. I find its a lot easier to carry that along with a box of cable. This is entirely preference.

A hammer crimper will do the trick. They aren’t exactly pretty but the most expensive one is still cheaper than a off shore hydraulic crimper. I personally have a hydraulic crimper but I work as an installer part time. As for stripping/cutting I use a channellock cable cutter, it goes through 0 AWG like a hot knife through butter. For stripping I close the cutter on the wire sheath and spin it around the wire. Not enough to actually cut through the entirety of the insulation but enough to score it 2/3rds to 3/4ths of the way trough and then pull. It takes a little practice to not cut to far in and cut a bunch of the strands of copper. A razor blade and a steady hand can also be used with great success.

This is the one I have that is really great but it's essentially the same tool as in that Amazon link and the OP, leverage wise at least. The mechanism is a bit different so this one has a bit more surface area for gripping nails but I assume that other one works similarly well, and is way better than nippers/snips like this which are the things I always have on my tool belt and often use for cutting and pulling smaller nails.

will yours pop right thru 1/4" all thread?

because these will all day https://www.amazon.com/7401250SBA-10-Inch-Leverage-Diagonal-Cutters/dp/B000X4MPAQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1478499990&sr=8-2&keywords=knipex+diagonal+cutters

trust me

edit:wow that sounded dickish

but its true and super useful

"Dikes". Believe it or not, those are diagonal cutters.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diagonal_pliers

Look under "jargon".

Also, as an aside, if you want high quality "channel locks" look no further than a German brand called Knipex (pronounced Kinnepex). I'm partial to the push button Cobra plier, but the more traditional "water pump plier" is also excellent. They cost a lot more than Channel Lock, but they have excellent leverage and really tough jaws that are narrow enough to fit into spaces other brands can't reach.

They also make a tool called the Pliers Wrench that replaces your adjustable crescent wrench and doesn't slip, need constant adjustment or round off corners.

Finally, their high leverage "dikes" get extremely high ratings.

Sorry to sidetrack you with a sales pitch, but I got excited when I read that you were starting to shop for better tools. If I had known about this brand ten years ago, I would have bought them first instead of wasting my money on cheaper tools.

Answers:

1. A cable cutter https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-911-Cable-Cutting-9-5-Inch/dp/B00004SBDG/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=cable+cutter&qid=1556237766&s=hi&sr=1-3 makes a nice clean cut; electrician's side cutters squishes the cable https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-J2000-48-Diagonal-Cutters/dp/B0006M6Y8O/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1YQ9ZDYTGHD0N&keywords=side+cutters+klein&qid=1556237820&s=hi&sprefix=side+cutter%2Ctools%2C182&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1 (I use side cutters as my next move is to put an end on it anyways)
   
   
2. Solder, Crimp or Compression connectors plus appropriate tools. Everyone has their favourite and it can become a religious war so I'll say no more. If crimping or compressing, use a ratcheting tool https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-Professional-Insulated-Connectors-Ratcheting/dp/B01IQIALJC/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=ratchet+crimp+tool&qid=1556237927&s=hi&sr=1-4 they usually look something like this but note the good handles cost upwards to $100 and the cheap ones (as pictured) aren't worth it as they wear out quickly. You'll also need a set of dies https://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-2656-CrimpALL-8000-Crimper/dp/B000JJGR1S/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=lmr+400+crimp+dies&qid=1556238008&s=hi&sr=1-5-spell for the appropriate size and type of coax. Some websites (DXE, Powerwerx) sell kits of this stuff for Ham use and the value is good.
   
   
3. No rip-off when you consider the value of the tools . . .
   
   
4. You always need a RF connector to attach a cable to anything; you can't splice the stuff and have the impedance remain intact.
   
   
5. Loss is additive in RF and your goal should be to minimize it everywhere and match impedance everywhere. Cheap coax will last a little while, better coax lasts decades - make the investment and you won't be sorry.
   
   73

Ask the current owner if they will leave the TV mount for you, you can even offer to pay/buy them another one if they decline. With that already in place you could probably lift it yourself, if you get an LED LCD, or find someone to help lift it, no skills required.

Speakers are incredibly easy to hookup, you just cut wire to length, pull the two ends apart a bit, strip the ends, stick it in the holes, and tighten. A youtube video and a few practice strips will make it a breeze in no time even if you've never used tools. You'll need these wire cutters, and optionally these auto-strippers, and some wire.

As far as your setup goes you could get the following, or anything similar:

TV $785 - 50" Samsung LED

Receiver $310 - Denon AVR1913

Subwoofer $280 - Newegg has the Klipsch RW-12D for $280 until 5/22.

L/R speakers ~$300- Polk or Pioneer towers from Newegg

Center ~$150- A matching Polk or Pioneer center from Newegg

Surrounds - none yet; the wiring would require some drilling to conceal, if you have a crawl space going under the floor would probably be your best bet.

Adjust as needed to fit your budget or to get any features you want; pushing closer to $2000 and installing it yourself would be best.

EDIT: I forgot to add that tower speakers just stand on the floor, no mounting required. The center channel will just sit on the top shelf of whatever entertainment center you have under the TV, put it flush with the front edge of that. You will also need a single RCA cable to connect the subwoofer to the receiver, you may have one already, any RCA cable will work, or you can buy a 10ft+ one for ~$8.

Recently heard about a brand called Capri, I think they started out making pneumatic stuff and now they're into hand tools too, a pair of their combination pliers (basically just linesmans but with a spot for tightening nuts) will only run you about $25 on amazon and they seem to be decent quality from what I've heard. Might be a good backup pair. They supposedly have very nice cutters too.
Capri Tools Klinge 9-inch High Leverage Combination Pliers and Crimper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077BVW8T2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3jaXAbKTBZV0V

Yes the platinum tools one is fantastic, buy that one.

Their tiny little side cutters are quite good too, if tiny scissors don't suit you. https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-10531C-Cutting-Pliers/dp/B002PI4BV4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540491444&sr=8-3&keywords=Platinum-Tools-10531C

​

Never a fan of knives as I can never use them with gloves on. Some guys carry a gerber or leatherman but that is more for convenience.I carry channellock cable cutters for getting myself out of an entanglement.

As for lights, I have a streamlight survivor LED that I love. I got the battery one and just leave it on my coat.

I am weighing getting a full channel lock vs knippex pliers set. Granted knippex has some tools like the cobras that channel lock does not and vise versa. But for the pliers that are equivalent the knippex is twice the price. Here is an example.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000X4OFUE/ref=pd_aw_sims_3?pi=SL500_SS115&simLd=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004SBDD/ref=pd_aw_sims_3?pi=SS115&simLd=1

Is the knippex twice as good? Is it worth the money?

Screwdrivers: pick up some Klein stuff. #1 and #2 Phillips, plus a few standard flat blades. Get 1 stubby #2 Philips and 1 stubby medium sized standard flat screwdriver. This would be a great set and it's basically what I have.

A couple adjustable wrenches of different sizes.

Some Channellock or Knippex pliers (a few different styles. At least 1 should be needlenose and at least one should be a larger pipe-wrench type.)

A couple Greenies.

Some Xcelite diagonal cutters in a couple different sizes. I also like this particular Irwin set of diagonal cutters. Great for zip ties and cutting cable. I throw one of those Irwin ones in some of my kits too (like my BNC kit has a set of strippers and crimpers plus one of those for cutting the cable and cutting back the braided shield.) It's the perfect multi-purposed size and it takes a lot of abuse. I get smaller Xcelite stuff for fine work on the bench.

A good pair of wire strippers that can do smaller gauge stuff (20-30 gauge stranded.) Get 2 or 3.

A decent utility knife. I just bought a new one, a Stanley 10-788, to replace one that broke. Don't buy one of those it's a piece of shit. Have to use my swiss army knife to depress the lever enough to get into the blade storage. Garbage. I'll be buying another one soon.

For soldering, word is Weller's quality has gone downhill. I don't know. Mine is about 10 years old and has been completely rock solid. Might want to do some research.

Some wire brushes (use 'em all the time on exploded batteries in remotes, sadly.)

One of those BNC removing tools if you don't have one.

Decent hammer and rubber mallet.

A basic level.

Fluke multimeter (toward the lower end of their range is all you need. Don't need precision, just need continuity and basic voltage check for checking power supply rails etc.)

Decent 30' measuring tape.

Decent set of Hex keys.

Socket set. Any Joe Blow set from Home Depot will do.

Cordless drill (I like the M18 hammer drill from Milwaukee if you can just have one, it's a bit on the big side but can handle everything from attaching TV mounts into brick to removing screws from equipment cases.)

Dremel (comes in handy in many last resort "oh shit moments.") Get some extra metal cutting wheels you'll use those a lot.

Wiha set of micro screw drivers for repair. They sell like 8 and 10 piece sets that handle most of your needs. Go Wiha or Klein or something for your screwdrivers (hear Wera is good too.) Don't cheap out you will use the hell out of them.

I have one of these literally just lives on my bench and I like it a lot, along with a decent #2 Philips I have there, it handles 90% of my screwdriver needs without me needing to go to the tool box.

Don't forget yourself get a GOOD set of hearing and eye protection!

Also buy a cheap dollar screwdriver or 2 in the common sizes and let people borrow (and lose) those, keep the good stuff to yourself. (And a cheap tape measure. Those 2 things get borrowed from me the most.

Edit: added more.

End cutting nippers.

https://smile.amazon.com/Channellock-357-Technology-High-Leverage-Heat-Treated/dp/B0000BYDYD/ref=pd_aw_sim_469_3/136-9586971-9204028?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0000BYDYD&pd_rd_r=cade944d-ade7-4ecc-9c22-4f67ce273962&pd_rd_w=3g1LZ&pd_rd_wg=i4xzF&pf_rd_p=6329818b-951a-4e75-9070-7e13e9f9f308&pf_rd_r=2C4YP5SXYZ1EH4M3E2ZE&psc=1&refRID=2C4YP5SXYZ1EH4M3E2ZE
I never post links, so I hope that works, but a tool like this is perfect for pulling electrical staples, and if you're removing more than 10, I believe you'll be infinitely happier that you're using these as opposed to any other style of pliers.

I used a pair of side cut wire cutters and they did a great job, nice and clean. Similar to this

Forget all that, get this:

VAMPLIERS. World's Best Pliers. 8" Pro Lineman's Screw Extraction Pliers. Specialty Screw Extractions Pliers. Extract Stripped Stuck Security, Corroded or Rusted Screws/Nuts/Bolts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LMOAYR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_l-yNBb6XYKBG9

Proven as one of my most important tool in my collection. Saved me so many times... they come in different sizes

Snap on sells knipex pliers, dykes, etc. If you don't own any knipex stuff, it's great.

My person favorites are these:


https://www.amazon.com/7401250SBA-10-Inch-Leverage-Diagonal-Cutters/dp/B000X4MPAQ


https://www.amazon.com/KNIPEX-Tools-00-20-US1/dp/B000X4KNTG/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1526243314&sr=1-5&keywords=knipex+plier+set


Snapon sells these with their logo on them, I've worn a few sets of the pliers out, the dykes I generally lose before I wear them out.... They are great for cutting through shift cables and doing drum brake work.

Linesman

I have both of these Klein diagonal cutters
Angled
Straight

Needle Nose

11 in 1

Strippers

Too lazy to do the rest but I’m sure you could figure it out lol

I just bought this utility knife last week and i [explitive] love the thing.

I bought these knippers and this rivet setter for rivets.

EDIT: Klein has a lifetime warranty. Take those dykes to Home Depot and exchange them.

Looks like you have Klein's cheapest model of dykes. These dykes are for COPPER ONLY. As such, these dykes often come in apprentice packs that work out to about $12 a tool.

Sets like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Apprentice-Professionals-Klein-Tools-92906/dp/B004EKONLY/ref=pd_sbs_469_22?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004EKONLY&pd_rd_r=614MR61121B3HCN1PZD5&pd_rd_w=VVUEB&pd_rd_wg=4xZ76&psc=1&refRID=614MR61121B3HCN1PZD5

Professional grade dykes can be had from both Klein:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000302WZ/ref=emc_b_5_i

And Knipex:

https://www.amazon.com/Knipex-7401200SBA-Leverage-Diagonal-Cutters/dp/B000X4OFUE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525112679&sr=8-3&keywords=Knipex+diagonal

I grew up using "nines" to cut them - basically 9" side cutting pliers and never had an issue with 'em.

I like the side cutters better more than end cutters, but that's probably just the nearly 40 years of momentum using a tool. If they're inexpensive enough, get a couple of kinds; there's a use case for end-cut and side-cut.

Example of a pair of nines (mine look almost identical, but I paid like $10 for 'em at a hardware store)

http://www.amazon.com/Klein-D213-9NE-9-Inch-Leverage-Cutting/dp/B0000302W6

These definitely work. Or if you have a pair of dykes, they work very well. As a homeowner/hobbyist, you will likely get more use out of them as well. Just gently pinch the staple and roll forward and it's out. Goes very quick, but you will still continue to stub your toe on the "one" leftover for several days.

Dikes will work fine, assuming they're a quality pair and have fairly long handles for good leverage.

I'm a complete beginner. I just bought a RX-78 (2015) MG and I have a Metal Gear Rex coming in September.

I don't have any tools.

I googled a guide and they said to get the Tamiya Side Cutter Number 35. How badly is this needed? Can I get by with Tamiya 74093 Modelers Side Cutter Alpha (https://www.amazon.ca/Tamiya-74093-Modelers-Cutter-japan/dp/B004C441D2/ref=sr_1_4?s=toys&ie=UTF8&qid=1500164031&sr=1-4&keywords=tamiya+cutter)

The issue is that I am in Canada. After about 15 minutes of googling, my cheapest/best bets is to eBay a Tamiya 35 or get this cheaper Tamiya Alpha off Amazon.ca


Second question, how badly is the self healing cutting mat required? I can get a 12X18" cheap but that feels kinda small yeah?


Also alternatives to GUNDAM Markers? Amazon.ca wants $12 USD for a pack of 5 by CREOS or whatever.

Thank you!

Just saw these on Amazon today, very interested in getting a pair for myself. Capri Tools 9" Linesman pliers forged in Japan $18.00 Prime https://www.amazon.com/Capri-Tools-Leverage-Combination-Crimper/dp/B077BVW8T2/

When you bodge the inside, you can always try bodging the outside.

Had good luck with these, plus the usual suspects, heat, penetrating oil.

https://www.amazon.com/Vampire-Professional-Tools-International-VMPVT-001-8/dp/B00LMOAYR2

They are just normal side cuts.

https://www.amazon.com/VISE-GRIP-Diagonal-Cutting-Pliers-2078306/dp/B000A0S4YO/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=side+cuts&qid=1568687664&sr=8-4

I find that i usually have the best access from underneath but usually you have to remove some plastic panels to get at things.

I looked and it appears I was mistaken, there is no special tool to remove them as they are a one time use item. The special tool is to install them.

A little more research and it appears that a lot of boot replacement kits have zip ties instead. Who knew?

The super basic kit:

Go to a hardware store and buy needlenose pliers and some steel wire and start making rings! You will need a mandrel to wrap coils on, and something to cut the coils apart. I would suggest a long 1/4" bolt and some diagonal cutters. You can also use a hacksaw to cut coils apart. Or, if you aren't up to cutting steel wire, get some copper, aluminum, or brass wire, since they are softer and easier to cut and form.

I think its way better than the xuron and tamiya ones that I own these two:
xuron
tamiya

Tools are a personal thing but his dikes are kind of a joke. This is the one I use and hopefully won't lose like the red handled ones I used to get.

It's clean, but my God, this guy needs a flush cutting side cutter!

These? https://smile.amazon.com/Knipex-7401200SBA-Leverage-Diagonal-Cutters/dp/B000X4OFUE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518988735&sr=8-1&keywords=knipex+dykes

Prefer the standard or the comfort grip?

Always wear a mask. Even if it does not have asbestos, gypsum dust in not good for the lungs.

I know that diagonal cutters do not cut perfectly flush. Get a good pair of high leverage pliers, and cut as close as possible. Once the sheetrock goes up on the wall, the little pieces of wire will be hidden forever:

https://www.amazon.com/7401250SBA-10-Inch-Leverage-Diagonal-Cutters/dp/B000X4MPAQ

Tell brother to take a mega boatload of pictures, please. This is an important time in your family's life, and deserves to be documented.

If you're able to hold out and order online, these Knipex are hands down the best I've ever used. They are also available in a non-insulated version. First time I cut a nail, I hurt my fingers because I squeezed like I used to with my Kleins.

Although it looks like a scalpel, it is actually a hobby knife it has replaceable blades and everything. It is actually recommended for hobby purposes.

I'm going with Swann A) because it's made in the UK. B) I haven't had much luck with blades that are held in place by screwing them down and these have a different way of attaching the blades.

I did order some Tamiya side snips though.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004C441D2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They make both kinds. I've never understood why they would make the ones that won't cut steel. The price doesn't seem much different.

https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-J2000-48-Journeyman-Diagonal/dp/B0006M6Y8O/ref=sr_1_4?srs=2594917011&ie=UTF8&qid=1511797377&sr=8-4&keywords=journeyman

https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-J248-8-Journeyman-Leverage/dp/B000CRY52A/ref=sr_1_5?srs=2594917011&ie=UTF8&qid=1511797377&sr=8-5&keywords=journeyman

I don't understand the hate. A pair of wire cutters makes zip ties a non issue.

https://www.amazon.com/VISE-GRIP-Diagonal-Cutting-Pliers-2078306/dp/B000A0S4YO/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1537492810&sr=1-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=wire+cutters&dpPl=1&dpID=31PWh%2Bq578L&ref=plSrch

That style if anyone was wondering. Sorry for the shotty link I'm on mobile.

I've been using this style for the last 20 years. Although they are 8" (not sure if that will work for you). I like them because you can cut most screws and nails including the ascr wire in utility lines.

https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-D2000-48-High-Leverage-Diagonal-Cutting/dp/B0000302WZ

Get a bunch of the larger white zip ties, a pair of either side cutters/linesmens, a zip strapper and box cutter and you’ll be just fine.
Zip strapper (zip tie tensioner)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000289614/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_BhgxDb1HWDME5
Linesmens for cutting the wire in it
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000A0S4XK/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_nigxDbK855VGM
Zip ties for reattaching
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003NFO5S2/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_awdb_okgxDbCFEBVYV

Vampliers

EDIT: Fixed link

https://www.amazon.com/7401250SBA-10-Inch-Leverage-Diagonal-Cutters/dp/B000X4MPAQ

I think these are the same.

Looking at the clearance of the pictured staple, a regular set of pliers will probably work.

If for some reason you need to lever the staple out, get a shim whose width is about the same as the height of the staples. Slide the shim next to one leg of the staple. Grab that leg, lean the pliers on the shim, and lever it out. Repeat on other side if necessary.

If you are looking for a reason/excuse to buy a new tool, try an End Nipper. These have large rounded cheeks that work as the fulcrum of the lever.

Here is the desktop version of your link

Former electrician

I'm guessing these vampliers are more of a specialist version of these pliers or would you consider an outright replacement of the snapon?

Or use these http://www.amazon.com/Klein-J2000-48-Journeyman-Diagonal-Cutting/dp/B0006M6Y8O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1414020860&sr=8-3&keywords=klein+dyke

They say you can use a regular crimper. Not sure if the one you linked to does ratcheting but it should work. This is one of their cutters: https://smile.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-10531C-Cutting-Pliers/dp/B002PI4BV4/

I swear by these.

Yup. These are end cutting pliers I bought for the same task. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000BYDYD

​

Depends solely on the tool. I'm not tool band loyal

These tools are the ones I carry on me and use most of the time :

T-handle hex : Klein

Nut drivers : Klein Tools 647 Cushion-Grip Nut Driver Set with 6-Inch Shanks (7-Piece)

Ratcheting wrenches : GearWrench 9509 13-Piece SAE Reversible Combination Ratcheting Wrench Set hard to beat for the price)

Screwdriver pry bar set: Mayhew 61355 Dominator Screwdriver Pry Bar Set, Curved, 3-Piece

Adjustable wrenches: Klein Tools D50710 Adjustable Wrench with Extra Capactity, 10-Inch and Knipex

Diagonal cutters: Knipex 7401200SBA 8-Inch High Leverage Diagonal Cutters

Pliers: Knipex 8701180 7-1/4-Inch Cobra Pliers

Ball peen hammer : Stanley Proto J1316AVP Antivibe Ball Pein Hammer, 16-Ounce

And I carry them all in my veto bag

Harbor freight: toolbox , punches, and allen set

Some Klein pliers are designated "heavy duty cutting" models. They have hardened cutting faces and a slightly different placement of the hinge for more leverage.

Here are a couple pairs in the Klein Journeyman line:

http://smile.amazon.com/Klein-J2000-9NE-High-Leverage-Side-Cutting-Pliers-Heavy-Duty/dp/B0000BYDNE

http://smile.amazon.com/Klein-J2000-48-Journeyman-Diagonal-Cutting/dp/B0006M6Y8O

And the same tools in the standard line without the fancier hand grips:

http://smile.amazon.com/Klein-D2000-9NE-High-Leverage-Side-Cutting-Pliers-Heavy-Duty/dp/B0031ERRNU

http://smile.amazon.com/Klein-D2000-48-High-Leverage-Diagonal-Cutting-Pliers-Angled/dp/B0000302WZ

To cut that cleanly without the wire getting unstranded you need one of these. Dont use snips because youll damage them. You can alternatively use a pair of linesman pliers or dykes in a pinch but yeah..they wont cut clean and.theres a tool for that. There may be cheaper options out there, i just listed one.