Reddit mentions: The best hvac controls

I just asked a similiar question not long ago and looked at many premade kits, I feel like I got a way better setup doing it somewhat separately, I looked at stuff like this https://www.amazon.com/BloomGrow-Reflective-Ducting-Hydroponic-24X24X48/dp/B0757YRKW7/ref=sr_1_49?m=AOALYYYVUG1U0&marketplaceID=ATVPDKIKX0DER&qid=1561412214&s=merchant-items&sr=1-49&th=1 , and eventually purchased this stuff, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019ETLC7M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 160$ actual wattage is like 250-275 ish

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B3LG55T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 120$

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PJ4VWF7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 70$

It is like 75-100 more expensive but I felt like it was a huge jump in quality for the money invested. Thanks to the people who advised me to buy not as a complete kit.

I've got a pretty fun set up in my Sunroom

Lights: some basic string lights, and a couple Ikea MAGNARP lamps plugged into some iHome Smart Plugs, along with Hue Full color bulbs in the ceiling with a Hue Dimmer Switch

The dimmer switch can not control anything but Phillips Hue bulbs but I wanted to use it to set a scene that turned on the string lights and lamps so I set the second press of the dimmer switch to turn the hue lights to a 1% brightness.
From within the Elgato Eve App I set an automation triggered by the Hue lights being set to 1% that turns the lamps and string lights on.

Fans:

It can get pretty hot in the sunroom in the summer with a lot of activity from booth the people and the cat in the house. So I set up a system with Eve Room Sensor, Eve Door Sensor (used on windows) and iHome Smart Plugs to automate 2 fans set up in windows on opposite sides of the room. The Room sensor tracks the air quality and if it is low the fans will kick on, as long as the windows are open, (tracked by door sensor)
when the quality is good again, the fans turn off automatically, and they don't turn on while the string lights are on, since they are kinda loud.

Unfortunately our AC unit has a NEMA 6-15P plug so its not compatible with HomeKit.

I've read that having a vibration damper between the fan and filter/light is best practice, like a foot of ducting. So inside tent: filter, duct, light, duct, fan, duct out of tent. All inside the tent, Assuming your light is ducted. A 6 inch hose clamp to connect them is what I think you're talking about. Like this

https://smile.amazon.com/Milliard-8-Inch-Clamps-Tightening-Releasing/dp/B00UGBBJZS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484009241&sr=8-2&keywords=duct+clamp

or fancy ones like this

https://smile.amazon.com/Ideal-Air-380037-Noise-Reduction-Clamp/dp/B00W1RC4MW/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1484009241&sr=8-7&keywords=duct+clamp

Hmm...

The Beacon Morris unit is a good idea as the vent will really increase the heat transfer considering the relatively low temperatures out of your water heater.

Two things to keep in mind: your hot water heater (I'm assuming you aren't talking about a water boiler for a house hydronic heating system) wasn't designed with re-circulation in mind. The heating unit wasn't designed with potable water in mind.

You'll need a circulator pump, even the smallest one you find will still be massive overkill for your system: http://www.amazon.com/Taco-007-F5-7IFC-Cast-Cartridge-Circulator/dp/B003EV1BAU/ref=sr_1_9?s=kitchen-bath&ie=UTF8&qid=1320530657&sr=1-9

You'll need a thermostat: http://www.amazon.com/Double-Pole-Voltage-Thermostat-21042/dp/B000H5T4X2/ref=sr_1_131?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1320530858&sr=1-131 It's for a baseboard (resistive) load, but it should be oversized enough to run your relatively small blower and tiny circ pump. You'll want both items to cycle on and off together, so wire them all through the thermostat. Extremely simple, like this:

120VAC Hot > one side of thermostat > (internal thermostat automatic switch) > other side of thermostat > wire running to hot side of both pump and fan

120VAC Neutral > wire running to neutral of both pump and fan.

You don't need any kind of automated valving, it wouldn't do anything the pump doesn't also do.

When the pump runs, it's going to lower the pressure on the outlet side of your hot water pump (no idea how much), and increase the pressure on your inlet side (again, not even a clue). Hot water is going to come out of the heater, lose a bit of temperature, and go into the cold side of the heater to be re-heated. The fan is going to force more air over your heat exchanger, effectively increasing it's size. The thermostat will automate the whole thing, turning it on and off as your setting dictates.

That all said, I don't recommend this off of a residential hot water heater. If you had a water boiler servicing your household space heating needs, it'd be a no-brainer. 700 square feet? Get a small electric space heater and wear warm clothes when it can't keep up...

OK. Here is what you are dealing with:

1.(L) black. Line voltage load. Either 110v or 220v. Need to verify with a voltmeter.

2.(W/Y) orange. W=heating and Y=cooling. Used for a two pipe hydronic heating/cooling system. That means water.

3.(Y/A) yellow. Y = cooling. A = electrical heater output. Heat and cool active to any relay.

4.(G1) red. Low speed fan. Through a relay.

5.(GM) blue. Medium speed fan. Through a relay.

6.(GH) brown. High speed fan. Through a relay.

7.(N) white. Line voltage neutral. Either 110v or 220v. Need to verify with a voltmeter.

What is missing is the "C" and "R" wires. Nowhere is there a low voltage 24v load and common wire. Your current thermostat does not use it.

You have two options that I know of. Purchase a transformer to supply the 24v to your new thermostat. Or return the Honeywell and purchase a wifi enabled line voltage T-stat.

Transformers. Here are two that may work:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037MXM1C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A26RBB5XP2LWJC
For 240 volts

http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RC840T-120-Electromechanical-Relay-Built/dp/B00D5YLY2G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464560168&sr=8-1&keywords=Aube+RC840T-120
For 120 volts

Line voltage T-stat:
https://casaconnect.com/en/shop/smart-thermostat-caleo/

Note: Since you have hydronic heating and cooling, in addition to HVAC, either choice for the thermostat will likely mean that you will loose that option. I have not evaluated the new Honeywell or Casa to see if they support hybrid systems.

Awesome. I'm also in Canada so here are a few Amazon links for ya:

Tent (or something similar) A lot of people suggest staying away from Vivosun but as far as tents go, it's pretty much all the same for the lower price range.

Exhaust + Carbon filter (or similar, and you will need a few feet at least of flexible ducting to hook it all up, should be cheap at a hardware store or on Amazon as well)

2 Clip-on Fans

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and you're still left with a couple hundred bucks for AC if needed

Check this out - looks to be a workable solution:

https://www.quora.com/Is-there-a-work-around-for-the-Nest-Thermostat-to-control-line-voltage-electric-baseboard-heaters

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037MXM1C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A26RBB5XP2LWJC

Good luck!

Thank you for your reply!

Since its pretty much a gutted shell and nothing OEM remains inside the air handler except the A/C coils perhaps you may be able to help me.

I have this

Endurance Pro Control Transformer 40VA, Primary 120, 208, 240V Secondary 24V, HVAC Furnace Multi Tap, Jard 4031F, Packard 42440 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PPK4Y9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_8Y8uDbT9915DS

And this

Emerson 90 380 Fan Relay 24 Volt Coil, 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LDCPQS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_h38uDbRWDC8PW

Installed.

Still waiting on this (to go outside) to replace what is there. It's a replacement of what the HVAC fella put on there (and charged me $90 for!). I'm just covering all bases here.

Packard C140A 1 Pole Contactor Coil Contactor, 40 Amp, 24V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003U81D2I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_D48uDbAQ9XXN2


Now, I'm confused as to how I would control the fan on/off. I assume some sort of relay, presently the fan bypasses the transformer and relay coil. I don't see a 24v wire on the fan itself and it is working but not turning off. (I have the outside compressor powered off at the box waiting for the coil for that)

Do I need to connect it to another transformer and relay and connect my thermostat to both relays?

Ahh got it. It's very important the smells don't come out. That's the main reason I'm running such a long duct out to the window. Here's a link to the fan/filter combo I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B3LG55T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I also bought a speed controller because the lowest speed setting on the fan out of the box is pretty loud. Do you think I need the fan on full blast? Tent is 72sf.

I'm really not an expert on grow filters and am pretty new to growing. I went with the cheapest 4" filter/fan combo I could find on amazon.ca. Here's the one I purchased > https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07B3RNW35/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm sure there are better options but this one works well for my needs.

Don't worry about the overall shape of the system. All that matters is what the wires behind the thermostats are and do.

Ecobees don't run on mains voltage; in typical US thermostat wiring, there's a 24V (AC) potential between the "C" and "R" wires on the thermostat harness designated specifically for thermostats that need external power, and this is what Nest, Ecobee, et al run on in the US. In fact, thermostats that go anywhere near mains voltage are very rare in the US. Your diagram implies that these are, in fact, mains voltage thermostats... fun.

Looks like Nest has a "Heat Link" appliance specifically for this scenario. If you like Nest, well, there you go.

More generally, this is an adapter that converts 208-240V "mains relay" thermostat wiring to a US-style 3-wire interface. This could be used with basically any standard US thermostat. It looks like European thermostats differ quite a bit, but it's likely there's similar units out there.

Anyway would one of these filter pullers be the best way to change those thick filters? I can get it out without but my fingers barley fit. (Yes I’m probably the only homeowner that changes my filters on time) https://www.amazon.com/Supco-FP18-Filter-Puller/dp/B01LBCK8U2/ref=asc_df_B01LBCK8U2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309819400004&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10358489871498681086&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1024016&hvtargid=pla-570835137268&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=60510211606&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=309819400004&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10358489871498681086&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1024016&hvtargid=pla-570835137268

The US standard is 120vac but just about everything will work with Mexican voltages.

The North American version of Nest needs 24vac to operate. Others have gotten them to work with their fan coil systems using a transformer and relays.

Using on a single fan speed you can get a Aube RC840T-120 relay

You want a thermostat switching relay like this one

Then use any smart thermostat you want.

VIVOSUN 6 Inch 390 CFM Inline Duct Fan with 6 Inch Carbon Filter Odor Control with Australia Virgin Charcoal https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07B3LG55T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_c-jDCbWSB7ZQS

This is what I have now, but I don't really expect the carbon filter to last more than a year. For now though, it works great. No smell at all.

It's Emerson 24A06G-1 Dual Level-Temp for Electric Heat , which has 2 switches as shown in my picture. The left switch doesn't have click sound hence is "sticking"; the right switch has normal click sound.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QW2DRP0/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_api_i_eHAyCbSTQFNTC

Its manual is here: https://climate.emerson.com/documents/24a06g-1-instructions-en-us-4289064.pdf

​

I have 2 Cadet baseboard heaters (which heats non-stoppingly due to the left sticking switch) in the main area of living room and 1 baseboard heater (which still obeys thermostat, hence I believe attaches to the right good switch) in the corner of the living room.

​

I don't know if I have to spend $128 to buy the same exact 24A06G. I don't have cooling appliance, I don't mind to control the 3 heaters all together under 1 switch.

What should I do, please?

More illustration

Something like this should work. SHOULD. I don't know the exact specifics of your setup, but it looks like 240V line-voltage baseboard heating based on your existing thermostat.

If you get this thing, connect all 3 wires to the Nest. It just saves headaches to have a C wire.

I had these on my 48 and that's what I did. Used these valves. Just make sure you get a no-loss pump to pressurized them with - HD sells one for about 50 bucks and it's worth it. The shock volume is so small a normal bike pump will let out a few psi when you disconnect.
I'm around 200 lbs and ran around 13 psi solo (or 18 2-up). I found anything lower than 10 would bottom out on rough roads.
Great ride though!

They sell fan delay timers that have integrated circuits inside that will do this for you. They're very easy to wire. You can buy them on Amazon here:
https://www.amazon.com/ICM-Controls-ICM253-seconds-Adjustable/dp/B000E24YQA

I'm glad to see more people are mentioning this, it's (IMO) a much better way to leak test without the risk of actual leaks. Some Amazon links for my current setup:

You'll need a pressure gauge, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0087UCI8C/ has a relatively low maximum for high sensitivity (easy to see if there's a drop)

You'll need a valve you can hook a hand pump on to (like what you'd use to pump up a bike tire -- I don't recommend an electric pump because of the low pressure you need). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PLI4BA/ is in the same threading as the gauge.

You'll need a tee to connect these things to -- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQUTBS/

Finally, connecting the tee to your rig. I take a scrap of tubing, put a fitting on one end, and slip the other over: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CFNKBO/ (check for your tube's inside diameter!).

Assembly is pretty straightforward, wrap some pipe tape around each component's threads and screw into the tee. Before connecting to your rig, you may want to cap the open end and pressurize it a bit to make sure you're not starting with any leaks. Connect in to your fill or drain port as appropriate, and slowly pressurize the system. You don't need a ton, only 8-10 psi is plenty, and is more than the water will be operating at. Mark the gauge position, and come back in a few hours. If the needle has moved, you've got a leak -- you can swab glycerin or dawn soap around your seals to find where. If not, you know that air at higher than normal operating pressure isn't leaking out, and that's a nice tolerance to know you have!

This can be used to hook up baseboard to a thermostat.

http://www.amazon.com/Aube-RC840T-240-Switching-Electric-Transformer/dp/B0037MXM1C

with how many you are wanting to hook up, i honestly couldn't offer any advise there. I know the nests are designed so they can network together and work in sync to keep all the rooms on the same temps, but that would be a very pricey undertaking with around 8 different units, as well as 2 AC units.

Its this Aube relay with built in 24V transformer, so I think it has both the relay and the transformer? I had 2 black wires and 2 red wires coming out of the wall, and he connected those somehow to the black blue and red wires on the relay part. He says he followed the diagrams that came with the relay/transformer and did it however they say it should be done, but yeah I won't know how he did it unless I open it back up and pull it all out. Clearly something isn't right since there's no voltage going to the wires that have been added to the knobs on the transformer part.

It's a remote temperature sensor for the heating/air conditioning thermostat. Hopefully you didn't damage it when you pried the cover off.

This one, or one very similar: https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-C7189U1005-Indoor-Temperature-Thermostats/dp/B003UJYZDG

Regarding the connection of the DH terminal to the NC terminal. Depending based on the wiring diagram that is on the relay, make sure the the terminal wired to R is on the other side of the switch. For example, in the relay I recommended https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00ECX0FWO/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvpv2_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3534659722&pd_rd_wg=DmHfT&pf_rd_r=VMHAX0BV3DW2EFSGH0D8&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00ECX0FWO&pd_rd_w=PstLc&pf_rd_i=DPDT+24vac+relay&pd_rd_r=bca85d26-c459-459f-be4d-7e8d679d7b14&ie=UTF8&qid=1524087357&sr=1 R should be wired to terminal 1 and 4, DH to terminal 2 or 5, O to terminal 3, Y to terminal 6.

These industrial types of set ups are way better/cheaper/more efficient than the ones made for consumers.

Link

put hepa on the intake and carbon on the output.

Oversize the filters

Install the following, then you can choose the smart thermostat of choice:

Aube RC840T-240 On/Off Switching Electric Heating Relay with Built-in 24 V Transformer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037MXM1C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uITLBbZFN4PYX

Parts list:

Controller

Power supply
3.2A model (most fans draw 0.5-0.7A, so this is very much larger than necessary)

Fan example
In case you aren't familiar, computer fans are available commonly and cheaply in sizes between 80mm and 120mm. Smaller and larger are around as well. They are nearly all 12V DC as long as it is not for server use (some oddballs are 48VDC, etc). 92mm is what I used here, and it's more than enough for my little 10g shrimp tank.

Are you talking about something like this ?

You will need a 1/2-1/4 bushing

Maybe a coupler connected to a 1/2” tapered barbed fitting

VIVOSUN 6 Inch 390 CFM Inline Duct Fan with 6 Inch Carbon Filter Odor Control with Australia Virgin Charcoal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B3LG55T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_xRd1dOz6XPb3G

Relay, Fan, 208/240 Vac https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PY7WUM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ju4ODbFYTSCHC

you could with something like this aube relay. That gives the necessary 24v transformer to be able to use a normal hvac thermostat like the nest. But unless you wire multiple relays together, and lose you zones, you would need nests for each zone which is big $$$.

The radiators in the hot rooms need smaller vents so they take longer to heat up, and/or the radiators in the cooler rooms need larger vents so they heat up more quickly. Some steam vents have a dial you can adjust like this, others have a replaceable orifice like this one - I got two of them last year and in spite of their low price they work perfectly. If a vent is not adjustable you can replace it with another vent.

Also, the headers in the upper floors may have undersized vents. My house has two headers. One is a short headers supplying 5 rooms, the other is a long header supplying 2 rooms. The rooms supplied by the long header took a long time to heat up, so I replaced the slower header's vent with one of these and it heats up much faster now. It cost me $75 if I remember correctly, but it was well worth it. It has much more venting capacity than anything with a similar price.

One last thing: see the diagram here: https://www.gorton-valves.com/products In general you want small capacity vents for radiators near the boiler/with short pipe runs and large capacity vents further away/with longer pipe runs so the system vents all the radiators at about the same time. It's part experience and part trial and error.

Alright, so far, I've got:

• Shrink wrap on the windows
  
• Door sweep on my entrance to the apt hallway (I could actually feel a breeze here before, crazy.)
  
• Foam tape on the same door frame
  
• Keeping the door between my heated and unheated room shut religiously. The flux in air between the rooms was actually making both feel colder, and I was turning up the heat more in response to this perception.
  
  I am still extremely suspicious of my baseboards (not the heater, the actual trim itself) because I can feel a draft under my desk, but I don't see any physical gaps to stop up. Maybe a piece of fire retardant duct wrap would work to both stop the draft and prevent issues with the heater? (The heater is kept off in this room since it doesn't have an auto-off, but I'm not about to put anything under/around it that's flammable.)
  
  Thank you all for your help!

Yes.

On the Ecobee
AC wires: RC, Y and G
Heat Wires: RH, W

Now here is where it get's tricky, you need a common wire. You have three possibilities to get it depending on your setup.

1. You have an extra wire coming from your A/C's air handler to your thermostat and a C terminal to connect it to on the A/C end.
   
   
2. You DO NOT have an extra wire to use as a C wire but you DO have a C terminal you could use on the A/C end. You will be able to use the adapter that comes with the Ecobee to get the C wire on the thermostat end.
   
   
3. You need a 24vAC transformer. Either a wall adapter or a box mount one And you would wirenut the hot side to RH and insert the common (neutral) side to C.

You don't need to buy those pre-made ones. You can just make one yourself with cheapo non-watercooling components. Low-pressure air gauge, a schrader valve, a t-block with one male and two female ends, and a thread adapter. About $20 worth of stuff, assuming you already have something to pump it with.

You’re looking for something like this. It is essentially a 240V relay with a 24V control circuit, which allows you to switch a line-volt heater using a low-voltage thermostat. Then you can choose any thermostat you like.

Aube RC840T-240 On/Off Switching Electric Heating Relay with Built-in 24 V Transformer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037MXM1C/

I don’t have any direct experience with it unfortunately, but maybe this will at least give you a place to start.

Get a baseboard heater transformer/relay such as an Aube RC840T-240.

If you can get an IOT device to provide a basic dry relay closure (Insteon 2450 looks good), and can wire the relay transformer into your appliance or its receptacle, it should work.

It looks like the Insteon 2477SA1 might be able to control your 240V load, but still needs wired in.

heres the link on amazon for anyone in canada

Use a relay + Nest, Ecobee, etc. Common for controlling line voltage baseboard heaters.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037MXM1C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You're looking for a relay. I used a few of these when I renovated my basement:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037MXM1C/

It replaces the built-in rheostat on the baseboard heat, and you then use low-voltage wiring to connect it to a "regular" 24v thermostat.

A furnace also has a transformer see here:
Honeywell AT72D1683 Transformer, 4" x 4", Multicolored https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000692A58/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DOnmDb2C4AT0D

Do wires go back to furnace?

>"Honeywell" brand on the front

https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-C7189U1005-Indoor-Temperature-Thermostats/dp/B003UJYZDG

I had to run 24v to a Honeywell Lyric thermostat ... used this.

Honeywell AT72D1683 120V/24V Transformer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000692A58/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ENWMBbQVHKQP5

Here is an example of a combination relay & transformer that would work:

Aube RC840T-240 On/Off Switching Electric Heating Relay with Built-in 24 V Transformer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037MXM1C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qSldAb96GGBRE

Amazon

Yes.......BUT


Where in the world are you located?

What type of system?


Here is a 240v to 24v transformer & relay that lets you control 240v systems from a 24v thermostat(nest)

Aube RC840T-240 On/Off Switching Electric Heating Relay with Built-in 24 V Transformer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037MXM1C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_eSa4DbEXQ2SG7

You don't need a tent if you can print/get the 4" vent adapter from Thingiverse.

https://i.imgur.com/v6EouwL.jpg

I was getting choked out by fumes, if the fan is on you can open the cover to the machine and not smell anything. :)

https://amzn.to/2Kddwyw This is the one I have. The fan is fairly quiet.

It's a wireless sensor for a thermostat. Not sure if this is the exact model, but is similar. It generally connects to a thermostat which can have several of these sensors providing temp readings for it.

I'm guessing the transformer is only powering the Ring and not any chimes, right? If so, it's only going to be drawing a few milliwatts to keep the battery charged. I really wouldn't worry about heat.

FWIW, I just bought this transformer to power my Ring. No fuse. No temperature cut off. Works great. Source: two degrees in electrical engineering

If you can swing the cost, this will take care of the odor no problem.

​

https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Inline-Control-Australia-Charcoal/dp/B07B3RNW35

Endurance Pro Control Transformer 40VA, Primary 120, 208, 240V Secondary 24V, HVAC Furnace Multi Tap, Jard 4031F, Packard 42440 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PPK4Y9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CpJsDbTPSHNK4

Just cap off the unused taps with individual wire nuts

> Absolutely no way to use Nest/Ecobee/other similar products.

Wrong. You can absolutely use a low voltage (24VAC) thermostat (Nest/ecobee etc) to control line voltage (120VAC/240VAC) equipment. This requires something like an Aube Relay with a built-in 24V transformer.

There are plenty of examples of folks connecting Nest thermostats to line-voltage heating equipment. Here is one. Here's another.
Here's a third. And for good measure, here's a fourth.

Never used this but could bridge your line voltage heaters to a low voltage thermostat.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0037MXM1C