(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best twist drill bits

I've been hugely impressed with all the Dewalt impact ready accessories I've used so it wouldn't surprise me if their drill-taps are the best out there. The impact ready hole saws and step drills are incredible also.

Often, you can delete the referral part from the URL. For example, take an Amazon link like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Dormer-A9202-5-Machine-Bright-Diameter/dp/B078C51DJV/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1526143210&sr=1-1&tag=xxxx&linkCode=ur2&camp=1789&creative=9325

The tag=xxxx is the referral code. The xxxx can be letters or numbers and it doesn't have to be four. You can safely delete it from the link. Copy the link from the forum and paste it into your browser address bar. Before you hit Enter, you first remove the &tag=xxxx up to the next &.

In fact, the rest of the gibberish are mostly tracking codes that help Amazon and maybe the affiliate poster, not you. The only thing that matters for Amazon is the Amazon Standard Identification Number (ASIN). It's always 10 characters. In the link above it's the B078C51DJV. Even the article name ("Dormer-A9202-5-Machine-Bright-Diameter") is not necessary, it's only there for SEO purposes. You could simplify that link to
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078C51DJV
... and it will work just fine.

(Fun fact: Since the article name really doesn't matter, you could even create misleading links like https://www.amazon.com/Cheap-Toothpick/dp/B078C51DJV and it will still work!)

Most other links work similarly. Look out for anything like ref=xxxx, click=xxxx, aff=xxxx or something like that and remove it after copy/pasting the link.

If they use Bit.ly like this

https://bit.ly/2Ie8sqe

then copy/paste again, but before you hit Enter, add a + at the end of the link like this:
https://bit.ly/2Ie8sqe+
It will take you to a preview page where you can see the real link destination. And if there are referral codes in that you can cut them out again as above.

it's definitely a simple build. the tapping part is maybe the simplest part, heh. it's intimidating (at least it was for me the first time) since it's out of our normal realm, but tbh metal is a lot like really hard, dense wood. you can drill it, cut it, sand it, etc. you just need the right tools. For this purpose, I used a drill/tap set like this one and a tap wrench like this (though that tap wrench kinda sucks). use a little tap fluid and go slow. back it out every couple turns or any time you feel significant resistance, wipe the tap quickly on a cloth or something, then thread it right back in and keep going. it's so much easier than it seems :)

The other rainy day I was contemplating how to organize my drill accessories drawer with dividers.

It brought to my attention the sad shape of my older twist drill bit indexes. I always start out with good intentions of keeping up with all the drill bits, but over time I had broke or misplaced about 1/2 of the drill bits. I suppose most of yall can relate.

So I was looking around to buy me a new complete set, when I stumbled across the KISS Drill Bit System.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uqUHmH_kL94

You can get it loaded with new bits of unknown quality for $189.

https://www.amazon.com/FastCap-KISS-SYSTEM-16-inch-Color-Coded/dp/B00VVHETZI

Which is about what I was prepared to spend on a good new set.

But then I sat there and stared at those 3 old indexes missing 1/2 the bits, and decided to just order the empty plastic organizer.

https://www.amazon.com/FastCap-KISS-INDEX-16-inch-Color-Coded/dp/B00VVHLZ7S/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_469_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=NF2HD1T1GKAH7VRZYCX3

So when it came I dumped all my drill bits out on the desk and had my sharp eyed daughters go through them and put them in the right holes, and then paint them to match the color coded system.

Turns out I only had to buy about $30 worth of individual ( Drill America) jobber length bits to have at least 2 of every size.

https://drillsandcutters.com/jobber-drills/

..... worked out pretty good. Now even my old eyes can find the right bit without having to cut myself prying it out of the metal indexes.

I still have to figure out how to organize the remaining stuff in the drawer though. I'm open for suggestions on that.

You can probably get them out pretty easy with a left handed drill bit. These Irwin bits are pretty baller. Just use a self centering punch or a small pointy punch and mark the center, then start with the smallest or second smallest one.

The idea is that the bit will catch the bolt and spin it out.

They also make this set that has spiral flute extractors, just in case the left handed bit doesn't catch.

You should use a torque wrench if you're not (I've totes broken bolts when torquing to spec before, so no hate if you are), a small 3/8" wrench that does inch lbs. Those bolts are probably supposed to be between 80 in lbs and 110 in lbs. Torque wrench will a) ensure you're not over-torquing and breaking bolts, and b) it's even all the way around, so you're not pinching the gasket weird in some spot.

I was given a set of these at my old job. I thought they where pretty awesome. Right now I just use whatever Fastenal stocks for us, which seem pretty decent. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OBILGK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RARXBbBVD50B8

Amazon is the way I normally go...

Dirt cheap (and probably shitty): https://www.amazon.ca/TITANIUM-COATED-DRILL-METAL-PLASTIC/dp/B00O3M81CA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521243188&sr=8-3&keywords=3%2F32+drill+bit

Better: https://www.amazon.ca/Irwin-73106ZR-32-Inch-Turbomax-12-Pack/dp/B00ALTDZ02/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1521243213&sr=8-19&keywords=3%2F32+drill+bit

Also good: https://www.amazon.ca/Bosch-TI2133-Titanium-Jobber-32-Inch/dp/B000AX9G3O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521243188&sr=8-2&keywords=3%2F32+drill+bit

I'm curious about these: I've used cobalt before and been impressed when working with hardened steel: https://www.amazon.ca/DEWALT-DWA1206-32-Inch-Industrial-Cobalt/dp/B00SOU4A3Q/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1521243188&sr=8-7&keywords=3%2F32+drill+bit

If you're doing 1000, they make an adapter for an angle grinder that probably cuts the drill time by 75%. Otherwise you're using a bit and a drill and based on the logs i've done, you're looking at probably 4-6 hours of actual time for the whole process (breaks to charge batteries, heat up wax, etc).

You've got to drill 1k holes
Put plugs in 1k holes
Hammer 1k plugs in
Seal 1k plugs with wax

Doing it on a whole fresh blowdown like this is a great idea though, esp if you're using a single type of fungi. I usually do 3-4 ft log lengths and have 10-12 varieties going at once. It's also cheaper in the long run to skip plugs and just use sawdust spawn instead if you're doing it in volume.

For anyone interested, the drill chuck adapter for the angle grinder can be found here:


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076PNPLDS/?coliid=I21LZ235DEB8TY&colid=Y9Z91VYYJ5T9&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

This is a quality bit, just be sure to get the right one.
https://www.amazon.com/North-Spore-Mushroom-8-5mm-Drill/dp/B0771PXQL8/ref=pd_cp_328_3/134-5251343-3783548?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0771PXQL8&pd_rd_r=b7e14644-0295-4bd1-b7a5-105742aab38c&pd_rd_w=zkfi5&pd_rd_wg=idY6n&pf_rd_p=0e5324e1-c848-4872-bbd5-5be6baedf80e&pf_rd_r=ZXB1KHK63CED6C84FZGE&psc=1&refRID=ZXB1KHK63CED6C84FZGE

massively increases the speed that you drill holes at, just buy a good bit or 3 or 4 cheap ones for that many holes...as the wood will do a number on poorly tempered steel.

The suggestions here are good, I would just add: get self-centering drill bits. They'll save you a ton of headaches.

(FYI, I have these, but I'm sure there are other equally good options: https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-CC2430-Clic-Change-Self-Centering-Assortment/dp/B0000TZX1M)

I'm gonna print these for all the guys in the shop. Brilliant!

After some googling, since I've only ever used the normal ring stops with a set-screw, I think you might actually have a marketable product in this design. Seriously, closest thing I could find is this, and I like your design better.

well for your side missile there is a legit bit holder from dewalt that screws in there, but that top one is one isn't something i've seen.

Edit: a bit more amazon shopping reveals this fucking monstrosity lol

> Chicago Latrobe Cobalt

Here's a link

Pricey yeah, but looks like a good set.

No, you don't need titanium, but they're relatively cheap. Since 1/4 shank drill bits usually aren't being used in wood, they're made of a little tougher stuff for masonry etc. But these will be fine.

http://www.amazon.com/Tooluxe%C2%AE-10171L-4-inch-Titanium-13-Piece/dp/B000P6G74M/ref=pd_bxgy_469_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1ZYCR1J8C8C1ZMH419NS

You can also get a drill chuck for your impact driver:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005BTM5JY?psc=1

And then just use any cheap drill bit.

http://www.amazon.com/Decker-15-110-General-Purpose-10-Piece/dp/B00280MC9M/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457123622&sr=1-5&keywords=drill+bit

The pot rack doesn't tell you the size of the hooks so you can't just buy one drill bit but drill bits are cheap. You want to choose a drill bit that is approximately the size of the shank on the ceiling hook, but you need to have it in hand to figure out. Hold the drill bit behind the threads on the hook and choose one where you can just barely see the drill bit between the threads.

If you ran a pipecleaner through the stem and still had bad draw, this will require a little investment, but not huge, and you can do it for all future pipes.
Get a 5/32" drill bit, take it to a bench grinder whilst in a hand drill, and taper it down to a fine point (or buy a pretapered one.

Then straighten the pipe stem with a heat gun (if necessary) and ream out the airway in the stem, and re-bend it. 5/32 is the standard in most handmade american pipes, and provides good airflow. If you find that its still not enough airflow, you may try 3/16, but you're probably smoking too fast if 5/32 doesn't do it for you.

Also, this issue with bad airflow in stems crops up alot with factory pipes, mostly because they use pre molded stems. Nothing wrong with them, just most are mediocre, so a little work is required to get them to smoke really well.

That was long.

Hope this helps.

From your description, I guess either something is moving at the initial hole in the table-saw, or else your drill press operation was not lined up perfectly with the hole when you clamped it (I rarely clamp at the drill press if I already have a starter hole since the work will tend to shift slightly to self align if you slowly lower the drill into the hole).

If the problem is at the table saw, then you should probably try a lot more clamping. I was paranoid when I did mine (the Microjig video looked highly underclamped tome), so I clamped two boards all the way across my tablesaw (sort of like cauls for a glue up) to hold the MDF in place, and I also used four magnetic hold downs -- three around the MDF and one against the opposite side of the fence in case the fence was prone to bend. Actually, IIRC, I first put the magnets in place and then clamped the boards on.

Also, I used a special drill bit intended for plastic. It has a much smaller tip angle (60-deg instead of 135-deg) than typical twist drill bits. I already had a set but I see that you can buy single drill bits for plastic on amazon. If you think you might be drilling a lot of holes in plastic or plexiglass in the future, the set I have may be worthwhile:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D1B3B51

Anyway, I did not use a drill press. IIRC, I drilled maybe 1/3 to 1/2 of the way through the insert, then I removed the Microjig guide and drilled the rest by hand.

Purchase a 5.5 gallon pot you want but without anything added to it.

https://www.amazon.com/Gallon-Stainless-Steel-Stock-Pot/dp/B000FRJJSM/ref=pd_sim_79_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000FRJJSM&pd_rd_r=6PQ2AMFEHC2QZZ0F78MZ&pd_rd_w=34FEi&pd_rd_wg=um6x3&psc=1&refRID=6PQ2AMFEHC2QZZ0F78MZ

Then purchase a weld less ball valve. https://www.amazon.com/Weldless-Stainless-Steel-Valve-Spigot/dp/B0028ZLEE6

and a weld less thermometer
https://www.amazon.com/Bayou-Classic-800-770-Brew-Thermometer/dp/B008FEPE18/ref=pd_bxgy_328_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B008FEPE18&pd_rd_r=222Q1R1CKYW4HFP57VT9&pd_rd_w=m7gkT&pd_rd_wg=pyRcb&psc=1&refRID=222Q1R1CKYW4HFP57VT9

Then purchase a step bit: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Dlawngarden&field-keywords=step+bit

Make sure it has the correct size.

Then purchase this bit for drilling pilot holes in metal: https://www.amazon.com/Century-Drill-Tool-26208-Cobalt/dp/B004UUFAYW/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1481229448&sr=1-1&keywords=1%2F8+stainless+steel+cutting+bit

Drill the pilot holes where you want the ball valve and thermometer, then use the step bit to widen the hole to the correct size.

I have been using this exact setup with an 8 gallon pot for 5+ years and it doesn't leak one little bit. Also you can choose whatever size pot you want, just remember that you should probably leave the thermometer at least an inch or so from the bottom and keep in mind the bottom water will be hotter than the top.

HSS = high speed steel. Good general-purpose drills.

The "4" and "5" could be metric like the other commenter said. It could also be gauge size--a really esoteric way of sizing drills that is still for some unknown reason in use.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drill_bit_sizes#Number_and_letter_gauge_drill_bit_sizes

4mm would be about 5/32". 5mm would be a little larger than 3/16". 4 and 5 gauge are both slightly larger than 5mm.

Super confusing. If you can't make out the numbers, you'll need some calipers or something.Or a cheap drill index.

Addendum: Thomas & Betts zipties, Legrand Conduit, Surge protector w. long cord, Echogear mount, DeWalt 20v cordless drill, 2-inch hole saw, DeWalt Bits, you might need an HDMI switcher if your TV has limited ports, short ethernet cables for the modem, router, and game consoles since they will sit in view on the shelf. Maybe a short coaxial jumper cable depending on how far the existing one can reach up the wall.

When you affix the Legrand conduits, have one open to the left and the other to the right. It leaves them easier to open in the future. The conduit on the right is the one through which we ran the power cord for the surge strip. We spaced the segment (gap) at that point by about two inches so that the power cords coming down from the electronics could exit and plug into the surge.

Favorite Economy cobalt bits

The bits I recommend if you can afford $70

whoops attach
https://www.amazon.com/Drill-Mate-Bit-Driver-Holder/dp/B00MP4J924