(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best all-purpose household cleaners

if you're new and you just want an easy kit:



field manual with pictures if you're really new to AR's something like this is super valuable to have.

Otis Cleaning Kit includes everything you need to clean it.



solvent You probably don't need a solvent on a new rifle but its damn handy to have around. this stuff is for ultra deep cleaning.



Lube Everyone has their favorite Lube, mine is ballistol, you can dump it on pretty much everything, and it makes it work together smoothly



scrapper for when your bolt carrier group gets all fuckered.



EDIT: almost forgot, you're def going to want one of these puppies too, a chamber brush


Cleaning tools usually come down to personal preference, cost, and how effective you can use them to keep your gun rust free and preforming well. I have had a great experience with all the tools i linked, and have used them to keep my AR 15 clean and functioning for a few thousand rounds. I think the largest benefit to this set up is that all these tools will easily fit inside of any range bag.



Have a good one and keep shooting!

This bike isn't anything special it seems, so any decisions are yours alone, but if you like tinkering and doing things, you have a great place to start.

Try to get the adjustment right on the rear hub before tearing into it. There are videos (youtube: rj the bike guy) but it is a very involved process. In said video, this guy knows what he is doing but it still took over a hour to do it and some very hard to replace small parts.

Is the wheel hubs or the bottom bracket oil lubed? You can tell if you find a nipple or a cover on their housing (the bottom bracket may have a drain hole in the bottom, if so then it isn't oil lubed). It will require more attention more often. It isn't bad, just a few drops every month or so. It works fine, just that the oil tends to run out of the sides of the hub and makes a mess of things. I have a '62 Raleigh that I'm sticking with the oil and I have no problems. If you don't like the oil idea (and it could be a pain), you could always open up the bearings and pack them with grease. On my '62 it had a oiled bottom bracket, but I can't keep the oil fill plug to stay closed, so I just packet it with grease.

You should at least check out the bearings for the bottom bracket and the front hub though.

The rust on the rims doesn't look too bad. I bought a can of Quickglo (https://www.amazon.com/Quickway-Brands-Quick-Chrome-Cleaner/dp/B008ZRHAEE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467816806&sr=8-1&keywords=quickglo) and it will take away all of that surface rust. I'm not endorsing this, but I saw a video where Jay Leno endorsed it (which was probably paid advert) and took a chance, worked great.

Koolstop makes some special pads for steel rims, I put them on my bike, but I can't say it improved the stopping (I have other issues to work out first). You could always swap out the rims for alloy for way better stopping but, this will be expensive to do so weight your options well.

How are you doing effort wise to get it to move in the 2nd and 3rd gear? Are you able to tackle any of the hills around you without much effort? Sheldon Brown suggests to replace the rear cog with a larger one so that you can easily cruise in 3rd gear like it is a single speed and then have the lower gears for hills. He said that they tended to be geared too high and I would agree with him. I did the swap (to a 20 or a 22 from a 16) and it made a big difference without hurting the top end too much.

You will probably need new rubber, just be mindful of the tire sizes. It is probably a 26 x 1 3/8 tire. This will not be the same wheel diameter of modern 26 wheel bikes: http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html You can still get some great tires for it.

First of all, here's a link with some pictures: https://imgur.com/a/DdDMX8f

I just bought this car two weekends ago and I'm stoked. I have washed it once (normal two-bucket method, no polish/wax). I'm going to plan for a more in-depth detail this coming or the following weekend, so I'm planning on making some purchases and wanted to run them by you guys! My general plan is do a foam cannon spray, rest a little bit, rinse, decontaminate w/ Griot's Speed Shine and Griot's Synthetic Clay.

After decontamination, in the long run, I would like to put a coat of CQuartz. Beforehand, obviously, I need to remove as many of the swirls/scratches as possible. I don't have any experience yet with compounding/polishing so do you think I should try it first before buying the CQuartz, or should I just go for it?

Here's what I'd like to buy:

1. Soap - Currently I have a bottle of some basic Meguiars cheap stuff that I was using on my previous old cars. After reading around some, I was going to either go with Gold Class or Optimum Car Wash. CarPro Reset is another option for me as I would like to apply CQuartz eventually so I want something without additives and waxes. Currently I have Optimum Car Wash in my cart, any reason I should go with anything else? I know everyone raves about ONR, but is that more for maintenance washes? Haven't looked into it much yet.
   
2. Snow foam - Chemical Guys Honeydew Snow Foam. I have a small bottle of this and I like the results, so I may buy a gallon unless I'm convinced otherwise!
   
3. Drying Towel - I have plenty of normal microfiber towels for touching up and interior work, but I don't have dedicated large drying towels. The Meguiar's X2000 drying towel was recommended a couple places on the sub and it seems like a good value; but I have heard Griot's is good as well. Any thoughts?
   
4. Polisher - Griot's Garage 6" DA Polisher. From what I have read, this seems to be one of the best-rated entry-level polishers. I haven't done enough research yet to know what type of pads/liquids I will need based on my specific paint, so I'll save those decisions for another day. The car was mostly well taken care of but there are a couple etched spots from what I'm assuming was bird poop or sap. There are a couple pictures in the album of this. Other than that, there seem to be an average amount of "swirl" marks but I'll need to do more research to determine what level of liquid/pads I need. I took the photos in the morning so I didn't have a good light source to show the "swirls".
   
   I already have some good stuff for cleaning wheels and I've been using Griot's Interior Detailer for the interior and it seems to be doing a good enough job. The interior isn't very dirty so just light cleaning suffices.
   
   As for CQuartz prep, before I am more confident in the paint correction process, should I apply a wax after polishing, or will that just make it more of a pain in the ass to decontaminate the paint when I decide to apply CQuartz in the next month or so? FYI, I'm going to be reading the DA polishing guides on this sub before I buy anything related to that.
   
   Any comments or suggestions on things I have selected?
   
   Thanks!

> wheel cleaner plus would be an infrequent use, not every time. D143 would be your every-time use.

So, should I get both or just Meguiar's D143?

> griots fast correcting cream and a microfiber cutting pad from meguiars for the cutting portion of the polishing. replaces 105 and maybe the heaviest foam pad, but i'd just get a microfiber cutting pad in addition to the others.

Would you happen to have a link to both? I am a little confused on what those are.

> Meguiar's D120 glass cleaner concentrate instead of rainx glass cleaner. a gallon will last you the rest of your life. (dilute 1:10)

Seems like a lot, but I guess it is more worth it in the long run.

> a more neutral soap like Adam's or Optimum's. Gold Class has wax additives.

These are a little more expensive (unless I am looking at the wrong one). Is Optimum Car Wash CW2006G the correct one?

> as for concerns: do not use D143 on plastics. don't spray it on the wheel wells either. wheels only. yes you can use optibond on all plastics

Should I stick with Meguiar's D101 in for the plastics, wheel wells, and wheels?

> 303 Aerospace will protect your dashboard. Leatherique has a good conditioner but really you're not going to be able to stop creases from forming.

What would be a recommended cleaner for either/both? Should I use 303 Aerospace Protectant on with the leather conditioner as well? Should I get both the Leatherique Leather Rejuvenator/Prestine Clean or just the Leatherique Prestine Clean?

I'll add in that having good tools really makes the job a lot easier. You don't have to go out and buy the Parktool complete set or anything but having a 2-10mm allen key set, a good phillips head screwdriver, cable cutters, chain tool, and some other specialty tools if you wanna go more in depth really helps. We use White Lightning Clean Streak and Simple Green Foaming Cleaner on all the bikes and that takes care of them pretty well. The bottles are expensive as hell if you don't get them from a warehouse like a shop can but the bottle of clean streak is about the only thing I've used that can get a chain properly clean. It's good to clean your drivetrain every so often and do a quick dry wipedown after every ride to get the road grit off of it. Don't be super liberal with the chain lube either, just a little bit is all it takes otherwise your drivetrain will get nasty.

Try to go easy on the cleaning chemicals when possible. Simple green should work fine on most of the exterior. Magic erasers can be good for stubborn or stained control panels, side art or general trouble spots, but be warned they do tend to take some of the paint off especially on old art. Novus 2 is a fantastic polisher for just about anything plastic, can work on rusted metal too if you want to tumble some parts. Goo gone (NOT goof off!) is great for removing old adhesives if you need to replace a CP or side art and take off some old glue underneath. Any glass cleaner is fine for the monitor (CRT!) screens, use simple green or a light cleaner on the plexiglass bezels or around art on the underside of a glass marquee. If you have some stained or smelly particle board inside your cabinet, white vinegar and a scrubbing brush can take out some of the smell and discoloration.

Those are the main tools I use, I'm sure each collector has their own set of favorites.

This is what i use at home:

http://citrus2.beaumontproducts.com/germicidal-cleaners/citrus-ii-germicidal-deodorizing-cleaner

>A broad spectrum germicidal cleaner, effective as a bactericide, fungicide, and virucide, including Hepatitis B and C, HIV-1 (AIDS) and Tuberculosis, with excellent residual biocide action. It’s also effective against mold and mildew. Great for use in veterinarian offices and clinics , effective against Parvo Virus! EPA-registered, non-alcohol formula contains no toxic chemicals such as phenols or glutaraldehydes, and is tested safe for a variety of surfaces including vinyl and naugahyde. It’s non-acidic, non-corrosive, and non-staining. Citrus II is ready-to-use so there’s no inconvenient mixing, dilution, or activation required as with concentrates. Refreshing citrus scent keeps the facility smelling clean and fresh.

Its used by hospitals and vets, it kills literally everything from HIV to staph in seconds, and it smells incredible. Its also safe to get on your skin, and safe to use on medical equipment.

Purchase link:

http://www.amazon.com/Citrus-II-Hospital-Germicidal-Deodorizing/dp/B000RRSCDS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397316021&sr=8-1&keywords=citrus+2

or

http://www.amazon.com/Citrus-Hospital-Germicidal-Deodorizing-Cleaner/dp/B000RROKUC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1397316034&sr=8-2&keywords=citrus+2

I'm curious to see how others in this sub wash and dry microfiber towels, drying microfiber towels (the ones that hold crazy amounts of water), and wash mitts. I usually just throw my normal microfiber towels in the washer with the appropriate detergent & dry them with low heat. But I am wondering if anyone has experience washing & drying the microfiber towels which hold very large amounts of water. I’m referring to towels such as The Double TWISTRESS & the PFM Terry Weave Drying Towel. These can hold several pounds of water. I’ve just purchased these types of towels & I am wondering do you folks just throw them in alongside the other normal microfiber towels?

Regarding the wash mitts, I usually throw mine in with the microfiber towels, but I have a specific wash mitt that I use just for the wheels. Is it safe to also throw this in with my other microfiber laundry load, or is there a risk here of contaminating everything else?

Lastly, on a slightly unrelated note, does anyone have a tip for how to clean dirty wheels/rims? I just purchased a specific wheel wash (AMMO Brute Wheel Soap), I was earlier using Optimum Car Wash. Using that, even with the Mother’s Wheel Brush & boar hair detailing brushes, I could never really get them 100% clean. I am hoping the new wheel soap helps. I also tried using Chemical Guys Premium Wheel Cleaner, but it comes out in such thick globs I can barely get even coverage. I want to try applying Gelee Wheel Protectant, but I am afraid to apply it since my wheels never get fully clean. Not only can I see the dust & grime, I can pick it up with microfiber towels.

Anyway, thanks for reading and thanks ahead of time for the help!

Yeah it works pretty well. Soak the label and the whole thing and all the sticky will come off easily. Like nair for overly sticky stickers

Edit: this should be a link?
Goo Gone Original - 2 Ounce - Surface Safe Adhesive Remover Safely Removes Stickers Labels Decals Residue Tape Chewing Gum Grease Tar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009M14C4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VNtvCbT3PJTX0

OP, if you want to start again. Get some Simple Green (original one only, not any special varieties) to strip them. It might be harder to find where you live in stores, but Amazon and Staples usually carries it.

After that, check out this video on painting Ultramarines. They give a paint list at the beginning, any colors you don't have from the AoS kit you'll need to either get individually or in the Ultramarines paint kit.

Also prime them black (spray primer). You can try to check out what other people use to prime that won't clog detail, or you can get the Citadel stuff.

EDIT: Soak 'em in a plastic container filled with the Simple Green for 24 hours. Then just use a toothbrush to get it all off. Should come off fairly easily (you might have to work a bit in the grooves).

EDIT 2: If you really enjoy painting, you might want to check out /r/minipainting's buyers guide. And also check out a lot of tutorials on YouTube. YouTube is your friend. Warhammer TV I linked above has lots of painting videos, but there are tons of other channels like miniwargaming, their spin-off channels, Tabletop Minions, etc.

Do you have a wax on your car? I use Griots garage brilliant finish in my foam cannon, and optimum car wash in my 2 bucket. The Griots garage is pretty good, especially since you can get it at Autozone and places like that. The optimum stuff tho is incredible, and it isn't expensive. It super smooth when you use it and leaves your car super glossy. I've used the Chemical Guys soaps (honeydew and citrus wash gloss) and I wasn't impressed with either. After I wash with optimum, I dry with duragloss Aquawax. It literally requires no extra effort and adds another layer on top of whatever you have. You just spray it on while you dry (the car it still wet) and it leaves your car glossy and it makes it bead even more. It's pretty cheap also.

Optimum Car wash:
https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-CW2006Q-Car-Wash-oz/dp/B00BFUG3EG

aquawax:
https://www.amazon.com/Duragloss-951-Automotive-Aquawax-oz/dp/B002W0YBWE

Reviews for aquawax:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews/77697-duragloss-aquawax-real-deal.html

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006SVSH9Q/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Six bottles for $12 shipped (if you have prime).

These things are awesome. They've got measurements on the side of them for 1:10, 1:5, etc. dilution ratios, and just the regular measurement marks in ounces and mL I believe.

I've used them for a few months and they've worked very well. They also came with 3 different color tops (6 tops, 2 of each color) which helps to quickly identify what's in each bottle without having to read the label of all of them to find what you're looking for.

I've never found anything that works as well as Barkeeper's to clean stainless. I do however, use the premixed liquid version. I just put a generous squirt in the pan and rub it over letting it work while I do the rest of the dishes. Then a little work with a copper scrubby gets it clean - I've found the copper scrubbies to clean well while not too badly scratching the stainless.

I have used Boeshield rust free to clean rust from cast iron. I'm not trying to be a jerk, but the rust I cleaned wasn't anything close to this. It really started to burn my throat the last time I used it without a mask. Eye protection might be a good idea too.

https://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-RF0008-Rust-Free/dp/B0000DD0F3/ref=pd_bxgy_468_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0000DD0F3&pd_rd_r=1CM4MPBNMV3X4A3VENHQ&pd_rd_w=CiXLJ&pd_rd_wg=Nor9S&psc=1&refRID=1CM4MPBNMV3X4A3VENHQ

I have also used their T9 to protect all my cast iron tops.

I enjoy Collinite 845, Optimum soap, drying aid, for my dash, doors interior, and vinyl on the outside , wash mitt , drying towel , interior and exterior microfibers great for buffing wax and dust on the interior. And if you want that shine and to keep the integrity of your clear coat I would wax every couple months, depending the quality of the wax you decide to go with.

If it's something like a cast iron table, you could use this: Boeshield Rust Free.

If it's something like a hand plane or anything small, I would submerge it in white vinegar for a day or two. It does a great job of getting rid of rust. Just brush off the residue with a wire brush. But make sure to dry it after or else the rust will come back.

LA's Totally Awesome cleaner does a good job of removing sticker residue. https://www.amazon.com/LAS-PURPOSE-CONCENTRATED-TOTALLY-AWESOME/dp/B0017KT3IM $7 at Amazon, $1 dollar at every dollar store in America. Goo-Be-Gone works well too, but can etch some plastics pretty quickly, so be careful and rinse well if you choose to go that route.

I've had amazing success with Boeshield rust remover.

The Boeshield T-9 lubricant is also great to prevent rust in the first place.

I copied my comment from another thread where I listed what he used that I could identify below. If you have any questions about technique I would be happy to try and answer them!

---

He's using a couple of things.

First, the white liquid is just some regular kitchen cleaner with a mild abrasive like soft scrub.

Next, the black whetstone looks like a welsh slate which is a type of natural whetstone. Could easily be something else, especially since welsh slates are usually rather high grit, but that was the first that came to mind. It could also be an oilstone, but they don't usually get muddy like the one he used did. Those are the only black whetstones I know of.

After the black stone he uses a rust eraser.

Next, the green block is honing compound. Green compound is usually around 1 micron.

Next, the progression of stones are all Shapton Pros.

Finally, he strops on this overprice Bob Kramer strop block.

---

What he's actually doing:

1. Scrubbing with cleaner to remove some of the rust
   
   
2. "Muddy" whetstone to remove more of the rust. Muddy stones work out unevenness in the blade.
   
   
3. Rust eraser to remove even more rust and give the start of a consistent finish
   
   
4. Green honing compound which he's using as a metal polish (which it effectively is)
   
   
5. Regular whetstone sharpening with a progression of 2k, 5k, 12k (Shaptons are color coded)
   
   
6. Leather strop

I don't quite understand what you are asking. Are you asking how to clean the chain (and cassette and chainrings) when using a thick lube?


There are a couple ways to do the chain that I like:

1. http://www.parktool.com/product/cyclone-chain-scrubber-cm-5-2 These are nice because you can clean the chain without taking it off the bike. It does a pretty good job, especially since it mechanically scrubs mud and grim off the chain.
   
   
2. Soak in degreaser for many hours. Probably does a better job of cleaning inside the links/rollers than #1 but it's more work. Might be easier to if the chain is REALLY grimy.
   
   
   Cassette and chainrings:
   
   I use a foaming degreaser, something like this http://www.amazon.com/Simple-Green-Foaming-Degreaser-20oz/dp/B001AYMLSY. Spray, scrub and rinse. You can also soak in a degreaser for a long time with the chain as well.

http://www.amazon.com/Savogran-10622-Trisodium-Phosphate-4-5lbs/dp/B000AXE7CY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457463596&sr=8-1&keywords=tsp

Cheaper at your box store probably unless you are in an ocean facing state that has outlawed it for algae reasons.

Also you should always clean walls with TSP before painting. Generally speaking I've had better luck with TSP cleaned walls and paint than uncleaned walls with primer and then paint, and it's a whole lot easier.

I have been using Dial Gold Unscented liquid hand soap for about 10 years now. It is fantastic. Much better than anything else I've tried. It has a very mild, pleasant odor, and it is antibacterial. It's also about $2 at Target or Walmart, even less at some Family Dollar or Dollar General stores. Protip: do not get the one with moisturizer. It leaves a film that is hard to clean off. Also, the knockoff brands have a weird chemical smell, so I spend the extra 25 cents, and get a brand made in a country that isn't China.

For daily maintenance or general cleaning, I use Parent's Choice Fragrance Free Baby Wipes. They're about $4 at Walmart only. They do a great job of cleaning the the cushion and flap especially. They are hypoallergenic, fragrance free, and also have a minimal amount of chemicals which I appreciate. Some RTs will tell you not to use baby wipes. Ignore them.

I have tried MANY made-for CPAP products and most of them are either a waste of time, or ludicrously expensive. The 'cleaning wipes' I paid $10 for a pack of 90 from my DME provider, were about the size of an index card, fell apart with even delicate usage, and dried out before they were used up. No thank you.

For daily disinfecting, I have a spray bottle of Hydrogen Peroxide that I picked up from CVS for about $3. I learned this technique from an RT while I was in the hospital. It disinfects well (it is peroxide), but as for removing dirt and facial oils, it is not the best. I have had good success by removing my water chamber, tubing, and sometimes filters, and spraying a light mist in each of the openings. Then I just let it air dry. Be aware though that Hydrogen Peroxide can bleach fabrics, hair, and just about anything with color in or on it. Use with caution.

For heavy duty (monthly or so) cleaning, I use Citrus II germicidal cleaner. If this won't kill something, then it was probably already dead. I avoid using it often, since it has a very strong odor, and often requires me to rinse repeatedly, and let my equipment air out, which takes a while. This is seriously hospital grade cleaning though, so I mainly use it only when I have reason to, like when I'm back from traveling, or I've been sick.

I have been using iKlear Apple polish for years. It's great for all my electronics (iPhones, macs, etc), though I don't use it on the display of my MacBook Pro or iMac. For the computer displays, I use a lint free cloth and water. It works great on the iPhone display, but once it's on the display of my MacBook or iMac, it seems to leave smudge marks, which must be removed with water and a cloth. I'm guessing it has to do with the coating on the computer displays, which is not present on the phone's display. I also use it to clean my glasses!

> De exemplu Cif e abraziv rau, sigur o face praf.

Nu, e perfect ok Cif, dar mult mai bun e Barkeeper's friend. Eu doar Cif+Barkeeper's friend folosesc.

I think something like a filter and sanitizer water would word.

Member's Mark Commercial Sanitizer (128 oz.) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0787938GN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kUMOCb1ZFWPVV

Member's Mark Commercial Sanitizer is a no-rinse sanitizer formula that can be used on washable, hard, nonporous surfaces like dishes, glassware, eating utensils, kitchen equipment, counters, tables and chairs. This product is suitable for USDA-inspected food processing facilities and federally inspected meat and poultry facilities.

It is an effective sanitizer at 200 parts-per-million (ppm) active quat for use on food contact surfaces in 500 ppm hard water against: Campylobacter jejuni, Escherichia coli [E-coli], Esherichia coli 0157:H7, Klebsiella pneumoniae, Listeria monocytogenes, Salmonella enterica, Shigella sonneii, Staphylococcus aureus-Methicillin-Resistant [MRSA], Yersinia enterocolitica.

This is awesome

as is this

and finally this

-D

Those sound like lovely pans. I'm not sure what you mean by "crusted thickly all over." Is it burned food residue inside the pan? Burnt-on spillover on the outside of the pan? Is it thick and chunky, or sort of tacky?

I would absolutely suggest you try Bar Keeper's Friend. For really badly gunked pans, I make a paste out of it with water and apply it over the gunky bits. I let it dry, then take a wet cloth or a wet scrubby sponge (a gentle abrasive one, not a super harsh one) and go at it bit by bit, starting at the edge. It takes elbow grease, but it takes off polymerized grease from enamel and stainless steel like nothing I have ever used otherwise.

I gather you're in the UK, so I checked and it is available there: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bar-Keepers-Friend-Surface-Household/dp/B00BLKGJ2G

Dude, Bar Keepers Friend is literally the most amazing stuff ever. Here it is on Amazon, however you can find it almost anywhere that has cleaning supplies.

I'd also recommend Bar Keeper's Friend which was recommended to me by my girlfriend (she was annoyed by my dirty stove). It works like a dream on basically everything. It's probably the best cleaner I've used.

Shop owner here. Depends on your county's Health Department regulations but I don't know of any that only allow you to use Stermine. Most will let you use a tiny bit of bleach water as a sanitizer for dishes as well. The only thing is you have to have different test strips if using bleach instead of a sanitizer. Here's some other sterilizers I've found that are USDA certified so they should be accepted in your county

r/https://www.amazon.com/Bar-Maid-DIS-201-Dishwashing-Sanitizing/dp/B002TDTYEY/ref=sr_1_5_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1540655738&sr=1-5&keywords=sterilizer+tablets

r/https://www.amazon.com/Members-Mark-Commercial-Sanitizer-128/dp/B0787938GN/ref=sr_1_4_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1540655787&sr=1-4&keywords=sterilizer+tablets

OK, there's a bit of rust in the post holes so might buy that as well. Thanks.
EDIT: Is this the stuff?

When my tools get really gunked up (happens more in the winter when I'm adding oil to my foundation) I use LA's Totally Awesome Orange all purpose cleaner. I can only find it at dollar stores, but here's a listing on Amazon.

It has orange oil, which if you have ever known any mechanics, is the bomb at cleaning even the most stubborn crap. But it's still somehow gentle.

I guess people can't buy concentrated all purpose chemicals and spray bottles so they can save an assload of money.

http://www.amazon.com/Simple-Green-11001-All-Purpose-Concentrate/dp/B0017D1GG6
http://www.amazon.com/Proforce-Commercial-Spray-Bottles-Ct/dp/B006SVSH9Q
http://www.amazon.com/Ivesco-One-Ounce-Dispensing-Pump/dp/B0024J2VO8

For a steep $17 you get 256 spray bottles full of all purpose cleaner. $0.0664/spray bottle of cleaner.

A total of $42.71 for everything pushes the total cost to $0.1668/spray bottle of cleaner.

My favorite lube/cleaner

https://www.amazon.com/Ballistol-Non-Aerosol-Friendly-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant/dp/B00ZAPMCHE

This isn't a bad little cleaning kit, I keep it in my shotgun bag. Same kit multiple names it's sold under.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072B9PY7G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXP9V3L/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01LXP9V3L&pd_rd_wg=Xr5wR&pd_rd_r=X1CKHD2DGJVKANW5C6YF&pd_rd_w=HmqzB

I also have a boresnake.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000C50S8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

By no means is this what you have to have. If you look around the Ballistol is highly liked for firearms, it has always worked wonders for me. I always clean my guns everytime I shoot them, personal preference.

Been using this product for years and can vouch for is ability to make your Mac screen (and iPad, iPhone, and Apple Watch) look heavenly. It's also used by the tech department where I teach to maintain the hundreds of computers and tablets in use by students and faculty. 1, 8oz bottle last a long, long time.

iKlear 8 oz Spray Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018CPCT8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_HOHxCb4C2XQ21

I use Chromax or Quick Glo on old bikes. It works like a charm to polish rust off. I mean, it is effortless. Both work equally well imo. It won't mar the chrome.

Bar Keeper's Friend Soft Cleanser has never let me down, I cleaned up my friends Kershaw Blur DLC with it.

Ballistol works like a dream. Just make sure you wipe it clean if you are turning your weapon into the armory.

Try Bar Keepers Friend (BFK) on it. You may get lucky.

https://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend-Powdered-12-Ounces/dp/B00JPO0KJ8/

When applying it, think paste. Wet rag with some BKF on it, and a little buffing does wonders.

Awesome All purpose cleaner Used to be called just tire cleaner. You can pick it up from most dollar stores and it'll clean rust off rust. We used it to clean an old RV and if you leave it on too long it'll strip the paint right off. This stuff cleans EVERYTHING.

Interesting. Thanks a lot!

Will these do?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009WY5GY
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000PW56WA
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013R9VT0

Cleaners like the brands Soft-Scrub (a mild abrasive), or Comet (a strong abrasive)

I think you need to jump up a class of cleaners. Goo Gone Pro Power works pretty good. It's noticibly better than the regular stuff. You could also use this, but as others said, spot check.

I strictly use Sodium Percarbonate for cleaning brew equipment. I was using OxyClean but felt it was getting too expensive. You can buy 10LBS of Percarbonate on Amazon for $25 shipped free with Prime. I use 1-3 TBSP per 6.5G carboy, depending on how stuck the dried krausen is. Some people buy bulk tri-sodium phosphate (TSP) and mix it with percarbonate to make a "DIY" PBW. I haven't seen the need for this addition yet, though.

Sodium Percarbonate

Trisodium Phosphate

I find that hard water + lather creates layers and layers of scum on the DE razor. Takes about a week to be ugly, 2 weeks to be disgusting. The solution, for me, is an ultrasonic cleaner. Bought the cheapest 2 Liter capacity model Amazon sold, have been extremely pleased with the results. Removes scum, hard water deposits, and even blobs-of-glue. You know, DE blades are wrapped in paper and (inexplicably!) glued to the inner wrapper. Some of the glue sticks to the blade, then some of the blade-glue sticks to the razor. Ultrasonic removes it. I use a few spritzs of Simple Green plus a spurt of dishwashing liquid, in the (hot) water.

I usually use Klear Screen or iKlear. Works great on screens and the body of the laptop, even works on pencil/pen/dirt/ect.

Clean with soap and water, use soft scrub and a toothbrush to remove it. If it doesn't come out it might have gone too deep in which case it would have to be replaced, or you can cover it with something.

Soft Scrub: https://smile.amazon.com/Soft-Scrub-Purpose-Kitchen-Cleanser/dp/B000RPXSDY?th=1 should be able to find it easily at your local grocery store though

This product is very effective, with a wet towel of it, and may be combined with bleach, if needed. Rubber gloves and a white towel, if the wall is white. Open the windows.

https://www.amazon.com/Savogran-10622-Trisodium-Phosphate-4-5lbs/dp/B000AXE7CY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474478520&sr=8-1&keywords=TSP+All+Purpose+Heavy+Duty+Cleaner

The way we do it for all of our Retina displays is to use a Toddy cloth (read a review here), which has a microfiber side for cleaning and a silk side for polishing (this is key for a mirror finish!) and iKlear cleaner fluid, which is what I've heard AppleCare technicians use themselves.

Using the iKlear fluid on the microfiber side first, then polishing with the silk side, gives a display completely free to streak marks or swirls. Now you'll never be able to stand a dirty display!

Orange oil cleaner or isopropyl alcohol usually will take off stuff like this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0041LY4MY/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1494338243&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=goo+gone&dpPl=1&dpID=41BvyLqs-mL&ref=plSrch

Goo Gone is your friend.

Maybe try barkeepers friend. https://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend-Liquid-Cleaner/dp/B007UTJR7G

I haven't seen this particular product, but the label looks like it's a non-permeable plastic outside. Is the underside "paper" that's "glued" to the container? That would be a tricky combo.

I've been able to use peanut butter (yes, peanut butter) on most labels with sticky glue (the oil soaks in and dissolves the adhesive).

If the outer surface prevents this, there's always the Nuclear Option®.

1. make sure engine is cool. warm is okay.
   
   
2. spray some all purpose cleaner (APC) like Simple Green. you can get this stuff from Home Depot.
   
   
3. agitate with brush (toothbrush for small crevices)
   
   
4. let the APC sit for 1-2 minutes
   
   
5. wipe off with damp towel or rinse off with water.
   
   
6. you can also apply dressing to keep it shining but i'm not sure what kind to get. something water-based i assume.

I used Barkeeper's Friend and a non-scratching Scotch-Brite sponge. Just noticed they have a special stove version... though the regular works for me. Can be picked up at Target, Walmart, etc.

For those in the UK:

iKlear 8oz Cleaning Solution for Apple Devices, HDTVs, Plasma & LCD Screens in Spray Bottle

Just an update for anyone else scouring the web for this answer...

My Dr recommended washing my clothes with Simple Green. I'm also going to try this cool hippy Peppermint soap my wife just bought from Costco - seems magical.

Peppermint Soap

Simple Green

Try goo gone? It worked for me. Get some on amazon here

> the part of the coil that stuck out of the brew (large copper coil, partial boil) tarnished badly.

Here you go. It makes the outside of your stainless brew kettles shiny like new, and will dissolve any caramelized sugars from hot points on the inside. Just make sure you rinse with warm water and a mild soap afterwards and wipe dry to remove any residue.

Go buy some trisodium phosphate. Add a little bit of that (Like 1/4 teaspoon, doesn't take much) to your dishwasher detergent. Works wonders.

goo gone maybe? https://www.amazon.com/Goo-Gone-Original-Adhesive-Stickers/dp/B009M14C4S/ref=asc_df_B009M14C4S/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242071853242&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3464479488354272015&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9006783&hvtargid=pla-406530958981&psc=1

For years, I have utilized Klear Screen Spray and a Micro Chamois Cloth. I use this combination for both screens (TV, phone, laptop, tablet) and laptop/tablet keyboards.

There's also Rust-Free...

Goo Gone adhesive remover or rubbing alcohol over 90%

Goo Gone. That will remove almost anything.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009M14C4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8s9WCb0WD1XM1

I have used tsp
And a ozone generator in my rentals if they have smoked.
I usually only need to run the ozone machine.

If Iso doesn't work i usually go:

http://www.amazon.com/LAS-PURPOSE-CONCENTRATED-TOTALLY-AWESOME/dp/B0017KT3IM
(this can be found @ the dollar tree)

Then (If need be):

http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Acetone-Remover-Fluid-Ounce/dp/B0006PS3KI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449774484&sr=8-1&keywords=acetone
Haven't used this brand, just acetone in general.



Lastly for hardwater/bloom:

http://www.amazon.com/Calcium-Lime-and-Rust-Remover/dp/B00009EFEX
(Publix/Walmart or any other basic market)

http://www.amazon.com/Savogran-10622-Trisodium-Phosphate-4-5lbs/dp/B000AXE7CY

When I had my awful Hyundai elantra I had hazy headlights and the thing that cleared them up(temporarily) was soft scrub, I imagine that'll remove any residue from the tint.

Like this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RPXSDY?pc_redir=T1

Hence why I still don't use a foam cannon or foam gun. If I have a bunch of caked on crud, I have a pump bug spray thing I use to spray Simple Green/soap mixture onto the area (usually wheel wells, tires, wheels).

Take the shells off and scrub them with some of this stuff..

Shit works for everything.

This stuff works really well, but it smells bad

https://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Rust-Free/dp/B0000DD0F3/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=rust+free&qid=1555528115&s=gateway&sr=8-3

it's probably just dirt. get yourself some of this stuff. and a good microfibre cloth and spray it on the cloth and wipe clean it. don't ever spray anything directly on your machine, you can liquid damage it, and don't clean the computer w/ anything other than this stuff. (this is just my professional opinion, i'm sure that there are other cleaning products out there, but i will only use iKlear)

harsh chemicals in commercial cleaning products will damage the finish. you can use iKlear to clean the outside and the screen, but again, spray the cloth, not the machine.

https://www.amazon.com/iKlear-8-oz-Spray-Bottle/dp/B0018CPCT8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538346259&sr=8-3&keywords=iklear