Reddit mentions: The best automotive electrical accessories

Ok, so the first thing I would do is find a 2013 HD Factory Service Manual (Hint; a Google search will pop up a pdf version at the great price of free). The factory manual specifically details each electrical connector type and how to properly unhook/open/access them. THIS IS THE BEST TOOL YOU CAN HAVE! (I can't stress that enough that's why I yelled it.) Also, you should find a good online OEM parts microfiche. The same applies as above, a Google search will easily link you to a few. Side note: Maybe the part is cheaper than the work, unfortunately I like to work.

Secondly, use the correct tools. The best $20 I spent was on a sweet professional electrical connector crimp tool. This is the one I use. The same company also sells different types of electrical connectors. Not knowing how deep down the motorcycle rabbit hole you are, I personally purchased some of the connector kits. But, they also sell individual connectors. Here are some of those. If not there, that giant online web retailer has some individual connectors often used on HD's. Just be sure of the connector name and give it a search (Service manual will tell you the names). A quick one I did returned this as an example.

Pro Tip: Also, get connector tools. These are invaluable for opening some terminals. Yes, most of the time a good pick set will work. But, my experience with pick sets as connector tools has been sometimes one of pain (stabbing into my fingers, hand, etc.) and complete frustration (breaking old, weathered, brittle connectors, breaking wire shielding). Just to be clear, I don't work or get any compensation from the companies I mentioned. I'm merely a customer who has had a good experience and choose now to use them for my business.

Pro Tip #2: Take the rear wheel off to make the job easier. Yeah you may be able to squeeze a hand up there but it has been my experience that having the room to work is nice. And, then you can actually see too.

Thirdly, if you need to... beef up how the wire is managed in the rear fender. Automotive adhesive like they use on some auto trims and emblems is great for adding a plastic zip-tie anchor point. Just make sure the fender is clean and it'll stick great.

Last but not least, don't be afraid to reach out for help. The company of the crimp tool and connectors I use has great support and resources. The local parts counter maybe not so much (depends on your parts guy). I'm hesitant to say use videos off that one internet site, something tube... but use good judgement. If it's Joe-blo and his potato camera and his baby momma yelling in the back ground I probably wouldn't use that video. You can DM me as well, I can't promise to know everything but I can help to the best of my ability.

And, when your all done marvel in your work with a nice cold beer or soda. Just kidding, go out and crack the throttle.

I suggest replacing the entire auxiliary input assembly. It sounds like something has broken with yours.


Here's a link to a DIY video for replacing the part. I suggest watching the video all the way through once. The guy really butchered his dashboard to remove the old assembly. Rather than trying to pry it right out, I would remove the silver cover from the gear selector (I'm assuming you have an automatic) and work your way up the dashboard.


Also, here's a link to the part you'll need on Amazon. There are other vendors who may sell it cheaper. The part number is "39112-SNA-A01."


If possible, visit your dealership. If you're still under warranty, they might be able to do it for you for free, or at least help you get a discount on the part.


Good luck and feel free to ask if you have any questions!

I got these as well and they're great. Definitely an upgrade over stock. I would highly recommend a relay upgrade. I had a random power draw issue that killed my battery after installed the lights. This kit (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H5JFHR0?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title) fixed the issue and made the lights brighter. Just had to wire power and ground to the battery.

It plugged straight in to the stock headlight plugs. Definitely recommend.

Hard to tell from the picture but that one looks like 4 pin. Make sure you get a 5 pin. If they don't have any at the auto parts store, I'd recommend this exact one, simply because it comes with the relay and a plug in for the relay with pigtails on it, and it's waterproof :)

Pico 5593PT 12 Volt 40 Amp 5 Terminal General Purpose Automotive Change-Over Relay and Connector Pigtail Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007UTFJHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0tGlzbY6SBP4C

Good day. I am in the final stages of completion of a Pelican Boom Box and have a question about charging this [Lithium Ion Battery](http://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-12000mAh-Multi-led-indicator/dp/B00ME3ZH7C) I have linked. If you click through the images you can see that I presently have the battery wired to a terminal block that goes up to a switch and the charging port on the exterior of the case.
For charging I used an [SAE socket](http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031BOTFC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s03) because that is what all the accessories on my motorcycle are powered by. I have replaced the end of the included wall charger for the LI battery (12V @ 1A) with the corresponding SAE plug. My goal is to be able to charge the case on AC from the wall plug, or DC from the bike or any other 12V outlet. When I spoke with a representative from the battery company they stated that 1A is the max amperage the battery should receive.

My questions are these;

1. Do they make a product that is an AC to DC converter that will allow DC input to pass through and become regulated to a specific amperage if that is what it was connected to. I'd prefer to have as little external of the box as possible. My desire is to have the wall AC/DC converter internal to the box so if I plug in an external power cable to AC through the SAE socket it will convert to DC @ 1A and if I were to plug in to a DC source it would regulate the incoming voltage to 12V @ 1A. If a product like this does not exist, can I add some sort of amperage regulation in line so when I'm powering off DC I don't blow my box up.
   
   
2. I was receiving a significant amount of interference from the bluetooth module and when hardwired to the 3.5mm jack from my cell phone. A ground loop isolator inline solved 90% of the noise, but I didn't know if there were any other tricks you had.
   
   
3. In order to extend the antenna of my bluetooth dongle I'm going to solder an additional antenna. I used (300/2450MHz)/4(1/4 wave)=.030cm. If I did that correctly, I would need a 30mm antenna to act as my 1/4 wave bluetooth antenna.
   
   
4. For audio switching between the Bluetooth module and the 3.5mm jack I ran each channel of each input to it's own section of a 4pdt relay, from a switch that also switches on power to the Bluetooth. The output of the relay goes to the amp and I jumped the output of both relay sides to have one cable. For the audio grounds I connected them all together for the two input and one output cable. All the audio works fine, I was unsure if this was the appropriate way to do it, or if there is something better.
   
   Over all this has been a fun project and I look forward to version 2.0.
   Build Link

Hey, I was wondering if it would be possible to use an adapter that turns one fuse into two rather than splicing the cable?

If not, do you think something like this would work?

Also, is this what you mean by testing light?

If any of these parts aren't correct, could you send me amazon links for the correct parts because I'm trying to use up my gift cards.

I really appreciate your help and I'll try to order the right parts as soon as I get the O.K. from you.

It is easily twice as bright as the factory setup. far better pattern too.

https://www.amazon.com/Headlight-Relay-Wiring-Harness-Ceramic/dp/B00H5JFHR0/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1464810131&sr=8-9&keywords=h4+harness

https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-HLA-H83140171-H4-100-80W/dp/B000COBLKW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464810209&sr=8-1&keywords=h4+100w

https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-003427811-132mm-High-Headlamp/dp/B001G72VIK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1464810364&sr=8-4&keywords=hella+h4

Order one of each and a second bulb. plug it all in and have awesome light.

Cigarette lighter is pretty simple, just buy something like this, connect the wires to the positive and negative terminals on your battery, and mount it where you want it on your bike. Zip-ties, double sided tape, whatever works for your look. You might want to consider splicing it into a circuit that's only on when the bike's powered, so that you can't leave something plugged in and accidentally drain the battery. If you go this route, you should definitely get some sort of heatwrap for the wires so it's not a source for shorting out in rain.

Luggage is hard to recommend, because regardless of style, there's so many different options. Do you want one pocket? Many small pockets? 10L capacity? 30L capacity? Those are question only you can answer, and if you figure all of that out, then you should have your choices narrowed down to a few options, and then you can choose what you like based on other features and aesthetics. Also, someone recently mentioned going to a horse-saddle-maker and having them make custom leather bags, you might want to consider this, I don't know if it's a cheaper option or not.

I did this to my last vehicle. Its fairly simple the way I did it. I didn't want to harm the original gps wire so I wired in an extra accessory plug (cigarette lighter) in an inconspicuous location (under dash etc). Then run the wire to the hidden plug through wherever you can (under dash). Installing an extra accessory plug isn't too difficult if you know where to get the power from. if you're not comfortable doing it, a fairly cheap and quick solution would be to buy an extra accessory outlet and call around to car audio places to get the cheapest install price. They will be the best at running wires and finding power/ground.

This guy does it the right way Its not necessary to run the ground all the way back to the battery, using a volt meter you can find a good spot somewhere under the dash.

this one looks good

No worries, you've got a good mindset to learn and no time like the present.

I'll add that most swear by solder and heatshrink + electrical tape. This is nice once you're really acclimated but you'll likely end up reconnecting things several times as you tinker and expand. I'll list below my couple of absolute favorite things I've picked up over the years and why I bought it:

Ratcheting Wire Crimper-- Can't tell you how many crimps have failed just because I didn't apply enough force. The ratchet ensures you get that final click down.

And a pricier ratchet I invested in over time-- Nice because it's more modular but not needed.


Posi Twists and also Posi Taps-- These make for quick connections + testing. Various sizes available but I tend to get some that cover 14+, and another set for smaller gauges ~22+

Solder Seal Wire Connectors-- I started buying these in bulk recently because they're just stupidly easy to use and make a rather quick and solid connection. Soldering is another experience onto itself if you've never done it before. While I tend to do more circuit-board soldering than wire to wire, it's all relatively similar and you'll find certain products that you fancy more over time. The biggest thing I'd say here is to buy solder WITH lead. Can't tell you how much frustration I've had over shit solder, haha.

My most recent wire stripper-- I chose because it has the largest range of gauges and there's no internal spring that forces the stripper open. Having one tool to do 10awg all the way to 26 is pretty sweet.

It'll feed directly into the antenna line and give much better audio. You'll need the factory car antenna to aftermarket 'standard' antenna jack adapter if the current deck does not already have it. This is an afternoon project to enjoy for a long time, make sure to get "t-tap" snap on spade connectors to tap into the wiring harness for power and install shouldn't be more than 20-30 min depending on how hard to get to back of your radio

If you ever have any tech questions feel free to look me up!

Ninja: these http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotchlok-Self-Stripping-QuickSlide-Disconnect/dp/B003KOIBLI

Your issue is most likely because that inverter will be rated to draw more than 120 watts (10amp car fuse x 12V car electrical system) - if that's the fuse that came with the inverter from new then it's max rating will be more like 240 watts (20amp inverter fuse x 12V car electrical system).

Any time your inverter draws more than 120 watts it'll pop your 10amp factory fuse.

The safest way to do this (assuming your new car has a 10amp fuse for the accessory socket as well) is to buy a stand alone female accessory socket and wire it in directly to the car battery with a 20amp fuse within 6 inches of the battery. You can install a switch inline too if you want to be able to turn it on and off. If you use good quality cable then it'll be rock solid and good for up to the rated capacity of your inverter.

Sounds like a job for an add-a-circuit fuse tap, relay and hardwired into the battery.

Find a fuse that is only powered with the ignition. From there use that as the signal on the relay. Then when the truck turns on, the relay will open and power the plug. Something like the running lights would work.

Supplies you'll want is either a Mini2 blade or micro2 blade fuse tap, depending on what the fuse is. A 12v cigarette lighter plug, and a wiring harness that is long enough to reach the bed from the engine bay. You can also extend it if needed easily. Just dont use the switch, as that will be powered by the fuse tap.


EDIT: I've done something similar except it powers my dashcam. https://imgur.com/a/t95ia


Since it wasnt pulling too much power, I didnt worry about putting a relay in the mix.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AO328FW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thats the exact one I purchased from amazon. Hope you enjoy the 5th gen :)

I bought this one but apparently it requires a connector I can't seem to find. It has a completely different port than the original.

I did find a similar looking one but according to Amazon it wont fit.

Any help would be awesome.

Can you tell me if THIS is the kind of thing you're talking about? Can put one of these in the light socket & solder the LED strip wires to it?

Sorry, but I need this explained to me like I'm five, it's surprisingly hard to find a clear how-to for dummies on this.

I have a '93 that had the same problem. It's a wear item that takes about $10 and 30 minutes to fix. Watch this video and buy a set of these for each headlight that's broken (or from somewhere else for cheaper shipping. Eckler's?). You don't need to buy a brass gear. The whole point of this design is those plastic nubs wear down over time, but are super cheap and easy to replace.

Also I think it actually took me 2 hours, but I just sat in my living room and watched TV while doing it, so whatever.

This job was an amalgamation of many different components rather than a single kit.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BQE5JAK/ref=pe_309540_26725410_item

I bought two of these packs and some wire, and some quick connectors

http://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Performance-ALL76232-Universal-Connector/dp/B003C01FD6/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1369623890&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=12v+connector

and then I took my soldering iron and went at it with some black electrical tape and heat-shrink tubing

I had a remote & module left over from my last bike, which is why i opted to do it this way rather that buy a new kit from a site like ledglow.com

Coincidentally, the module I am using is from ledglow.com

http://www.ledunderbody.com/replacement-single-color-flexible-motorcycle-control-box-and-wireless-remote.aspx

My method is not for the faint of heart. I recommend buying a plug and play 6 or 8 pc kit, rather than trying to make your own kit like I did, but to answer your question the LED's were from amazon with that first link.

You can get crc contact cleaner. CRC Industries 03130 QD Contact Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RY5D0G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WqTrDbQFPHMTQ

I would clean any excess off first. Then Use the crc cleaner with the spray straw and while the board is upside down give it a blast. Then clean it with rubbing alcohol then let it sit to dry.

Get on Crutchfield, they'll sell you what you need all in one package for a competitive price.

As for wiring the harness, sorry to say but it's very rare to find a pre-made double ended harness. Blaupunkt used to offer those for "select cars" a decade ago, but stopped because not enough takers.

If you're not comfortable with soldering and hate crimp connectors, you have two other options that are pretty good:

First there's these things...
https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-Connector-Waterproof-10White-5Yellow/dp/B01GRKAMI6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1486599367&sr=8-4&keywords=solder+heat+shrink

They kick a lot of ass, literally solder and heat shrink in one step with a cig lighter or heat gun. I wouldn't use them under the hood (too hot under there) but in the dash? Awesome!

Other option is these things:

https://www.amazon.com/Posi-Lock-Connectors-14-16-gauge-601/dp/B00HTA8O9S/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1486599506&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=posi+lock+butt+connectors

Those things will join wires with no tools at all, apart from strippers of course.


These are fantastic btw, if you think you'll ever strip another wire in your life later https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01924A-Ultimate-Self-Adjusting-Stripper/dp/B000IYTCG6/ref=sr_1_9?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1486599547&sr=1-9&keywords=wire+stripper

I've been thinking about buying one for a while. This one in particular:

http://smile.amazon.com/adapter-cigarette-lighter-splitter-MRS152UV/dp/B003RQBKLC/ref=cm_srch_res_rtr_2


But I'm not sure if it will be able to fit into the ashtray next to the cig lighter...really want it to feel like an integrated part of the car, not hanging out.

By the keys, there is a black box with a wire coming out the back mounted to the fairing.

My 12v is flush-mount. Most of the ones I've seen are. I've never seen anything that big mounted there. I thought maybe it was a radar detector or something sexy.

But you appear to be right. It's a big unit kind of like this velcro'd on.

So first things first buy some "twist wire connectors" like below: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I1PFD4Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yeH3Cb9RZTBBT

You may also want to buy a small-ish junction box for your wire connectors to be housed in if the cord is in an obvious area. Might be unnecessary if this is portable. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075DG55KS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DjH3Cb58QJNNH

Next turn off anything that would supply power to the wires in question. Might need to turn off circuit breakers at your electrical panel.

If you got the junction box, wire the cables into there and give yourself enough slack to where the wires jut out of the box by at least half the width of your fist.

Next feed both same colored wires into the twist connector and twist until hand tight. Repeat for each individual wire pair.

Take out the slack and use electrical tape around either side of the cable to reduce the tension on the wire connectors.

Close the junction box and you're done.

The first thing that I got was a cell phone holder and a USB splitter. Makes the daily driving much better.

http://www.amazon.com/adapter-cigarette-lighter-splitter-MRS152UV/dp/B003RQBKLC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1416346705&sr=8-3&keywords=cigarette+lighter+splitter

Posi-locks should work too, easier than soldering

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Posi-Lock-Connectors-14-16-gauge-Posi-Products-Blue/dp/B00HTA8O9S

Looks like a car/automotiv style connector. You can find little extensions for it such as this.

> My biggest gripe about the car is the 1/2 lockout that happens with light throttle around 2k rpm forcing you to shift into fourth.

Buy something like this

AH sorry missed that. May have to make up your own for that. Not a big following on those. You can buy general kits taht you can modify as you need to. Just make sure and get one that has the correct plugs for your bulbs.

Somethign like:
https://www.amazon.com/Headlight-Relay-Wiring-Harness-Ceramic/dp/B00H5JFHR0

>With that said, is there a preference of one over the other?

The A119 has a better camera vs the Mobius and has a screen which the latter doesnt. Personally, I would go with the A119

>my commute is generally 2 hours each way. When I get into the car the first thing I do is plug in my phone. Is there a cord I can purchase allowing the charge of the phone and cam simultaneously?

You can get something like this

>I live in NY. The summers get extremely hot, with ice cold winters. Is storage inside the car out of the question?

It isn't, but you would want one that doesn't have a bettery but instead has a capacitor which just means it'll only work when plugged in.

>I will not be able to keep the camera on the dashboard when the vehicle is unoccupied during the day, as I work in a highly populated area with a decent amount of crime (my car has been broken into in broad daylight while I was at the office)- so the ease in removing and reattaching the camera from its working position is VERY important to me.

Both are fairly easy to remove from the windshield to store away somewhere else.

I'd just cut it out and put in a deutsch connector

https://www.amazon.com/Deutsch-2-Pin-Connector-Housing-Terminals/dp/B0166WDCVO/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_263_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=SB8J2WGN1ADVEKQMVQWK

Or you could go the easy route with this one

https://www.amazon.com/Deutsch-2-pin-Pigtail-14AWG-Copper/dp/B07FT8S9Z3/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_263_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=SB8J2WGN1ADVEKQMVQWK

Appears to be a good design. The only spot I could see water being a problem would be the the 2-pole connection, but you do not have to use that or could hide the connection in the battery compartment. But for $40 I would attempt to make this myself. Just make sure you have an inline fuse. Or look at this and it even has USB. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FR2JF0W/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_x5XEub01RE0HP. If you are looking for just USB there is this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_A8XEub0EXCW4G

If you want the connectors for easy removal for say track days or something you could just go with quick connectors. Much less hassle to track down, and they're usually at local auto parts stores. For the front fairing bolt check out the[ Cowling Installation Parts Diagram] (http://www.motosport.com/motorcycle/oem-parts/suzuki/2008/sv650/cowling-installation-parts-%28sv650s~sa%29). I'm not sure exactly what screw/bolt you're referring to but it should be listed.

Had the same issue with my 06 civic. You can buy replacement parts on Amazon. Took about 5 minutes to replace. It’s just a piece that plugs into a port.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HRXNLIG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pair Square 5''x 7'' Led Headlight High Low Beam Headlamp for Jeep Wrangler YJ Cherokee XJ Trucks 4X4 Offroad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0733G5QLC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_kBVCHVpJQCQgW

Dual High Low Beam Headlight... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H5JFHR0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I'm running these two and it's amazing

Well, I don't know how many DC outlets you have or need, but this was AWESOME for us:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003RQBKLC/

We were able to plug in the GPS, DVD player, Ipad and Iphone

It's a quick fix, 15$ and 5 minutes.

https://www.amazon.com/Muzzys-CAGS-Shift-Eliminator-1992-2018/dp/B01AO328FW

Here's a few different options..

https://www.amazon.com/MOTOPOWER-MP68993-Cigarette-Lighter-Adapter/dp/B01E04YWNC/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_lp_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=PMMF7ZRJEMHV4FTCDXAZ

https://www.amazon.com/Econoled-Motorcycle-Cigarette-Integration-Splitter/dp/B00FR2JF0W

https://www.amazon.com/BikeMaster-Volt-Power-Adapter-Mount/dp/B0068FYMVO