Reddit mentions: The best automotive engine oil drain plugs

Well, I'd say everyone has done a fine job at covering the personal type advice. Lot of great advice on how to succeed and advance. I'm more of a hardware guy, so lets talk tools.

I love tools and so do you, whether you know it yet or not. The shop I worked at only had 3 mechanics plus a counter guy. Obviously we didn't have lube techs, tire techs, mechanical techs, etc... we just took whatever came in, in whatever order it came in. So even split between lube and repairs by a huge margin, my most valuable tool was my cart

My bay was always neater, and I was always faster because I had my red cart with all the tools I needed for lube and tire jobs super organized on it. So for oil changes and tire rotations I didn't even go to my toolbox, I just pushed my cart over and got it done. For any other work, I just went one time to my toolbox, got everything I would need for a job, put it on the cart with my lube tools, then take it all in one trip.

As long as you

• Don't set a tool down anywhere other than on your cart!
  
  
• Always put away tools you put on your cart between every job. No exceptions.
  
  you will never lose a tool.
  
  On my cart, I screwed down a magnetic strip on the top shelf, and kept the 3/8" drive sockets for common oil pan plugs on one end, and the impact sockets for common lug nuts on the other. Also on top I had a Philips and flathead screwdriver, a 3/8" ratchet, a few different length extensions, a 1/4" ratchet with a 10mm attached, a flashlight, a tire gauge, my filter wrench, a super-cheap code reader, and one of these. It looks silly, and sounds stupid, and your coworkers will laugh at it, but your hands stay so much cleaner.
  
  On the middle shelf, I had a massive pile of clean grease rags, and a 1/2 gallon pump bottle of hand scrub.
  
  On the bottom shelf was a small cardboard box to throw dirty rags in until I had a chance to dump them in the can, my impact gun, a couple impact extensions, and a tire inflator.
  
  Hanging on the side I had two sets of rubber-coated gloves. One "dirty" and one "clean". One set was for wearing outside the car to keep shit off my hands. The other set was to put on when I needed to touch something inside the car, to keep the shit that did get on my hands, off the upholstery.
  
  Among the thousands of dollars of tools in my 7 foot high tool chest, what I've described above probably accounts for 75% of my daily tool usage, and more like 99% of my oil/tire job tool usage. Set yourself up like that, and don't even worry about a tool bag.

Well it's not leather but it's worked so far in keeping a few small spills and adding some more protection from the actual cushions being indented from the car seat. Minor gripes were putting the rear seat back together with the added thickness took a few tries, and my rear back seat protectors don't look quite as neat now.

Some other functional things I've done to mine:

• Replaced the OEM 16mm rear sway bar with a 19mm one (20mm available as well) which cut back on the rear sway feeling when you're cornering.
  
  
• Replaced the H11 headlamps with H9 and used this adapter so I didn't have to mess with any factory wiring. The only difference between the fit is a little notch that needs to be cut. H9s are brighter but will last a bit shorter.
  
  
• Replaced my interior bulbs with LED. I used this kit from eBay and later replaced the cargo LED with a brighter one.
  
  
• Installed a Fumoto drain valve to make oil changes a breeze.
  
  
• Replaced all the speakers with aftermarket and added an amp.
  
  Enjoy the new ride!

Shop ain’t giving you proper tools? Business people these days...sacrifice safety for profit. Wear gloves, hopefully they provide that. ....loosen the oil drain plug with a decent ratchet/wrench, buy this tool and keep for yourself: https://www.amazon.com/OTC-5911-Drain-Magnetic-Remover/dp/B0054WI7CW
Loosen bolt rest of the way with that and you will not get a drop of oil on yourself it’ll hold the drain bolt too so that it won’t fall into your old oil collection...proper tools will help you avoid touching the hot areas of the oil pan

If you need additional sockets get harbor freight..hex set plus ratchet and extensions....safety is important.

If you have to get safety glasses too...I use them for oil changes, and if others make fun of you, ignore them.

Like other people said it is all in your owners manual. But if you are going to at least be changing your own oil, I highly recommend getting the fumoto valve it has made changing the oil quick, and super clean since I got it!!! It is a must buy.

• Dogbone insert.
  
• Replace any non-LED with LED bulbs.
  
• Change color of LED bulbs for interior (i.e. I got red footwell LEDs)
  
• Clubsport S Center Caps (have a red ring around them)
  
• Tint (find a shop that does triangle windows w/o removing trim or charging extra)
  
• New tires
  
• New lightweight wheels (something flow formed - Neuspeed/Konig/etc)
  
• Add a rear lip/spoiler
  
• Hardwire a dash cam (highly recommend this) or radar detector.
  
• Drop in panel air filter like AFe DryFlo/Remove snow catcher in intake
  
• Automatic hatch pop kit (USP's kit is best), though they're sort of meh and require extra force to close.
  
• OBDEleven
  
  Some would say JB4. I would fall into that group since it is removable before any necessary dealer visits.
  
  Invest in oil change supplies because it's so simple on this car and you can save yourself a good bit of money vs paying someone. Buy some things in bulk and you won't have to worry about not having them when the time comes and you'll save some cash. I have 2 MK7s and by doing this, my changes cost me about $30-35/ea and take me about 20 minutes, which is less time than most people will spend driving to the dealership.
  
  
• Fluid Extractor or catch pan.
  
• 4 Pack of Plugs Replacement oil pan plugs if you're doing catch pan drain method vs extractor.
  
• 3-pack VW Genuine oil filters
  
• Mobil1 0w-40 VW502.00 Spec Motor oil rebate is ongoing through October. You can get 10L for about $24 give or take. Walmart has them for $22.xx per 5L jug. NAPA also recently had singles for $5/ea, may still be ongoing.

I did this on my Bandit 1250. I didn't pull the oil pan (4-5 hours of work to do so: have to remove radiator, full exhaust, lot of other pieces). I rented a Time Sert kit in M14x1.25 (Bandit's drain plug size) for $25 + refundable deposit + cost of sleeves (I bought 2). Time Sert may be really expensive, but it is a REALLY REALLY REALLY good tool. I fixed my drain plug in about 15 minutes. Drilled out the hole, rethreaded it per instructions, ran a gallon of rotella through it, put red locktite on the insert, and it has been solid through 2 oil changes so far. I was beyond impressed with Time Sert.

Not sure if they offer an M12x1.5 (KLR) size, but worth a look. on Amazon it's $95, but I would called them and ask if they have an M12x1.5 kit available. aircooled.net link

Alternatively, there are Helicoil and Perma-Coil thread repair kits.

3rd option is to drill it out to a size larger and tap it out, get a new drain plug. Either to M13 x 1.5 or M14 x 1.5. Found this kit on Amazon, you'll have to source your own drill bit, naturally.

Call Eagle Mike, see if he has any repair kits or recommendations.

Check with a local auto shop if they have a time sert in m12 x 1.5 kit and if they'd let you use it. You'll need to get your own sleeve inserts. Autozone may have a rental for you.

Do the redneck thing, put a shitload of high temp silicone on the drain plug, sell the bike to some poor sap. No, don't do that.

So I just saw this on Amazon last night and ordered it immediately. No idea how well it works but it looks like it will save your sanity if it does.

Lol. It got you good. Recommend one of these. Loosen the drain plug 2 turns and snap this handy tool on before loosening further.

OTC (5911) Drain Plug Pro Magnetic Drain Plug Remover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0054WI7CW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yTI4Cb3T9Z3FD

You should be using a piggyback drain plug. The steel plugs will easily strip aluminum pans, so having a piggy back plug makes it so you're never moving the threads attached to the pan, just the small bolt inside of the plug. Oil drains a bit slower, but definitely worth it, in exchange for not stripping your pan.

I filled this vehicle in my driveway after a rad change, and it wasn't too hard but was a bit of a pain.

First, the transmission fill bolt is a nonstandard square drive. You will need something like this. It is right by the passenger side inner CV joint.

Before you open it, make sure you are in neutral with the engine running, or you will leak everywhere. Then fill until it leaks. There's a specification to the oil you have to find out. To fill, I just used a syringe but it took a long time.

Definitely doable in a driveway. I removed the transmission mount to make it easier.

Here's what I got for my 2018 Crosstrek. Works great!

I actually just watched the oil change video from Jake TheGardenSnake where he links the crush washers he used for his 2016 FZ07. Thanks for the help!

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wwAQx7WCObM

Crush Washers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K3B595M/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=jakesnake-20&linkId=c4a1fcd63fb9b300320c5cad4b0c189c

Although, I have not purchased this yet, it is in my cart for my next oil change. With it, you can attach a hose to the plug and it will direct the oil directly in the disposal container. I feel like it is going to make oil changes a much more pleasant experience

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AMXAVX0/?coliid=IXENUG68AZZYJ&colid=QSUTONY162IF&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

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I have a different pan that doesn't splash. Maybe if you inserted a large funnel in the hole, raised the pan and placed the pan such that the initial fast stream hit the funnel there would be no splashing. You could make a large funnel by cutting the bottom off of a gallon jug of oil (or milk, etc)

Two inexpensive but totally worthwhile upgrades:

1. LED fog lights
   
2. Fumoto oil drain valve

I personally would try a self tapping oversized drain plug first. My dad is a mechanic, he's had good luck with them on cars and his motorcycle. Not sure what size yours takes, but here's an example from Amazon. 5 Oil Drain Plug W/Gasket Sngl Oversize M12-1.75 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040CTXUW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GUnsybZQZ485Y

Yep, Volkswagen is using that plug on the 1.8L and 2.0L engines equipped in late model Volkswagens (2015 and up). I ended up buying the Assenmacher tool through my Snap-On dealer though it's available on Amazon.com as well.

For the oil and filter, I'd recommend going to the closest Jap Four dealer and get your manufacturer, or a similar manufacturer's 10w40 for 4 strokes, then go to the parts department and tell them you need a filter for your exact bike; almost guaranteed they have some in stock.

Gloves - if you go to the pharmacy section in walmart or a similar store, you can get 100 gloves for under $10. You'll pretty much never have to buy them again.

Here's a set of metal crush washers that are actually cheaper per washer ($.89 vs $.793 each). Again, get a bunch right away, and then you don't have to worry about it for a while.

Torque wrench - some people are recommending against that one, or even using one in general. There's nothing wrong with torquing an oil drain bolt, it's a little excessive, but you can't do anything wrong if you torque it to spec. That might not be the most accurate torque wrench in the world, but unless you're taking apart the motor, it'll be close enough for what you use it for. Plus by buying one now, you'll have it for future use, obviously it's not like it's only applicable for this one specific job.

Good spot for a Fumoto 90 degree oil drain valve...

https://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F316L-Engine-Drain-Valve/dp/B013KW2WTQ/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=fumoto+oil+drain+valve+90&qid=1562976844&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Supercrazy M13 X 1.5MM Oil Pan Drain Plug Thread Repair Tool Kit SF0087B https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V0R7KQ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_9ZVJKNF9USKss

This worked well for me on an x5 with aluminum pan. Use some Teflon tape on the drain plug and you should be fine.

Something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-65200-AutoGrade-Drain-Plug/dp/B000CO96FE

There is rubber in the middle. Tighten it down and the rubber expands, sealing off the hole. These are commonly used for oil pans with stripped threads.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F108S-Drain-Valve-Nippple/dp/B004FFHH0M&ved=2ahUKEwjRmaPTsPXdAhWRr1kKHR9DAwkQFjAAegQIARAB&usg=AOvVaw2JfhwxL-qMeQ5p6lHjMDPa

I just changed the oil in my '16 Crosstrek. This makes it much easier.

You can't weld an aluminum pan to repair the threads. There are temporary wing-nut style drain plugs that they sell at auto parts stores like this

That's a little overkill for a single repair - they might sell an 'oversize drain plug' for your size with self-tapping threads, like this (check your specific thread size/pitch) https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-65217-AutoGrade-Oversize-Drain/dp/B000COCX0E/

Mine didn't have a separate washer. Your drain plug was likely replaced. It should look like this with a built in seal.

Yes, those are aftermarket plugs, I don't remember their justification but I've seen it before.

Example: https://www.amazon.com/SMART-R6-Drain-Plug-M14x1-5mm/dp/B00OZ6TB1E/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?ie=UTF8&

"Anti-leak and Anti-vibration function: seals the oil pan from the inside and counteracts vibration. The high-tech O-ring material expands upon contact with engine oil."

I think they are 14x22.3 but other sizes might work okay. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K3B595M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PxEVybFFTKRX2

This might work: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=626783

Or there's something like this but you'd need to take off the pan to install it.

I would suggest getting a Fumoto drain valve if you can get your plug out. Then you'll never have to worry about it again!

No mechanic will split the cases for a stripped drain plug. There is enough metal in those pans to get an oversized self tapping drain plug from autozone and thread it in.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/12mm-MAGNETIC-OIL-DRAIN-PLUG-BOLT-YAMAHA-OLDER-YZ125-YZ426F-WR426F-YZ85-TTR250-/151004145653

That is likely your drain plug, which means that you'll need the timesert:

http://www.amazon.com/TIME-SERT-Metric-Kit-Part-1215/dp/B001JK44D4

After you drill I would take an air hose with a long extension, insert it deep through the hole and start pumping in air. You can alternate between that and carb cleaner with the red straw. if you take it slow with the drill and re thread all the metal should be within an inch of the drain. As long as you insert the red tube or air nozzle beyond an inch deep it should blow the metal out, not in.

http://m.harborfreight.com/air-blow-gun-with-2-ft-extension-68257.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot%20provided

After that I would fill the resevoir with oil, leave the bolt out, pull the spark plug, and crank it. That'll flow oil into the bottom of the case and out the drain, flushing out the remaining particles.

EDIT: make sure to stop cranking before you run out of oil. Should only take a few seconds of cranking.

If you don't want to spend the 100 bucks on the timesert,

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002ESCY3W/ref=pd_aw_sim_263_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=31SAT3CwMsL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C75_&refRID=0HK5JPGWZW877MTKEGKZ

There's a package of 5 self tapping drain plugs for 10 bucks.

I have one for my Outback, and I'm never looking back to using a normal screw. Different models also have different styles (long tip, etc), so you're bound to find something that will still have adequate clearance even for off-roading. I personally use the F-108N, which has a long tip, and it still tucks away inside the factory skid plate.

As for not being able to drain completely...I'd say it depends. My OB has the drain hole facing the rear-ish of the car, and I have my car on ramps during oil changes, so gravity kinda does the work of clearing out that last little bit for me.

OTC (5911) Drain Plug Pro Magnetic Drain Plug Remover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0054WI7CW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_STkUCb5M20XPB I just found one this is what I was talking about

I suppose that a Fumoto oil valve would have to be next!

Also this thing

already exists

Here you go.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VCB9WC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_FY7Ezb7VY64VB

I mean, this is 20 bucks and keeps your hands clean.

If you really wanna simplify the process get the one with the short nipple and buy the tube that goes with it. You can run this straight to the container and never have to deal with an oil pan

Fumoto F108S FS-Series Drain Valve with Short Nippple with Lever Clip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FFHH0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GJUGDbSSHZSCT

Or?
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-Drain-Plug-Magnetic-Remover/dp/B0054WI7CW

I used the F-108N on my '18, and it works great... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VCB9WC

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-65200-AutoGrade-Drain-Plug/dp/B000CO96FE

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VCB9WC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I bought this to make my oil changes easier. Drain your oil, replace the drain plug with this, make sure you get a crush washer from subaru and rent a torque wrench from auto zone, or something.


You'll be able to change your oil without any tools, save for a oil filter wrench. You'll have zero mess oil changes, though.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9221

Just change your filter too, it's not that expensive($5).

Our cars take 0W-20. Up to you what company you want to go with for oil. Mobil 1/Royal Purple/Motul/Amsoil to name a few.

If you change the oil and get a new filter, you'll need 5 to 6 quarts. Fill up with 5, then check and see if it's full, otherwise add more.

You can cheat and install a Fumoto oil drain valve...next time you do your oil change it'll be a hell of a lot easier.