(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best automotive engine parts

Okay you guys helped me with my seats now i need some help making sure i got everything. im a next to a total noob hardest thing ive done is the quest alternator swap and rejetting my motorcycle carb. i've ordered some parts already and done a couple days worth of pouring over the forum guides and everything but just want to grab some advice. please and thank you, heres my tail for the troubles. ps sorry for format and everything. edit: going for a light build 7psi or so, engine is healthy rebuilt 15k or so miles ago. already have a air filter cone installed didnt know if i needed a different one.

injectors - ordered
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4x-OEM-NISMO-Yellow-Side-555cc-Fuel-Injectors-16600-RR543-For-Nissan-SR20DET/172633776477?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

maf - ordered
https://www.ebay.com/itm/22680-30P00-Fits-INFINITY-J30-NISSAN-300-300ZX-Z32-MASS-MAF-AIR-FLOW-SENSOR/181604925459?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

fuel pump - ordered
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Pump-For-1990-1996-Nissan-300ZX-3-0L-6Cyl-Eng-Pump-Motor-w-Strainer/232264026350?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

manifold
https://www.enjukuracing.com/products/isr-performance-v2-tubular-exhaust-turbo-manifold-nissan-240sx-ka24de.html

intercooler
https://www.enjukuracing.com/products/isr-performance-m-spec-front-mount-intercooler-kit-nissan-240sx-ka24de.html

fuel filter - ordered
https://www.enjukuracing.com/products/isr-performance-oe-replacement-nissan-300zx-fuel-filter-sr20det.html

oil feed
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SA3TSXE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2K3YY3CMSFPZ6&psc=1

blowoff
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006C52VZ4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=AA2G6TND0MHNU&psc=1

turbo - ordered
https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/pts/d/240sx-sr20-sr20det-garrett/6477969501.html

edit: oops forgot to find a means of boost control.. any suggestions?

Would something like this 6.0 Blue Spring Kit Upgrade be worth looking into to maintain high oil pressure? Is there more to it than just buying and installing the kit?

Are replacing the top seal, the location of the ICP & IPR sensors, and replacement of the HPOP all related or are those three unrelated statements? Sorry, I'm pretty ignorant, but I hope to become less ignorant eventually. Are these things I can accomplish in my driveway without access to a lift or crane? Thanks!

I have decided to start my upgrades with a new intercooler, a cold air intake and blacking out the chrome. I really have no idea about quality parts so can someone let me know if this intercooler is of quality: http://www.amazon.com/Godspeed-Evolution-Evo10-Ralliart-Intercooler/dp/B007SQ2HTG/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1
Also if someone could recommend to me a good quality air intake, that would be awesome. After these mods my goal is to get a catback exhaust and the boost pill. Little by little I will get there. Thanks for you help!

Yes, definitely scrape some of the powder coating off so that the bolt can make a good contact with the mount and then onwards into the tailgate. It would be beneficial for you to run a grounding strap from the tailgate to the body as well. I did mine similar to how the stock wires are (the ones that power the third brake light). Use a grounding strap, though, not a wire. Reason being is that RF travels on the outside of a wire, so using a regular 16ga wire (for example) doesn't facilitate grounding as well as something with more surface area, such as a braided ground strap (link being just an example, find something the length you need).

Thanks! Last question for now....what are your thoughts on these? Seems pretty straightforward and risk free to me:

1. https://afepower.com/afe-power-77-16204-sprint-booster-power-converter
   
   
2. Fits Jeep Grand Cherokee - High-Performance Tuner Chip and Power Tuning Programmer - Boost Horsepower and Torque https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SFXLWKB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vfT2DbS1FDCD0

> The max temperature of a toaster in air is less than its max temperature in vacuum, same as the engine, if it works as I speculate.

The issue is what is the toaster made of? Steel? Won't it melt if it's hot enough to melt an engine block? If the toaster melts all the insides short and it stops being a toaster, it might still be able to melt the engine block, but you've made what is closer to an arc furnace, not a toaster.

> You mean like the red color of hot metal? Thats mostly from the surface, right?

Yes, hot metal gives off IR radiation which will cool it, yes it's from the surface, but the heat from the toaster will be transferred via conduction to the surface. An engine block if more than capable of transferring 1.5kW without melting, they are typically designed to handle a couple hundred kW when water cooling is available. A 1kW toaster will almost get it warm, what you have is essentially a large block heater, 1.5kW is actually what some people connect to their engines to help it start

Hijacking top post for clarity.

The Audi digital gauge has a range of 1 qt from min to max. This represents the top 1 qt of the engines total capacity.

Some engines hold 5qts, some hold 7qts, some hold 10, etc. Each engine code has a set of values that can be used with one of these to get a physical measurement.

Source: Audi Master Technician

Sure, what engine are you trying to use it with? I use this exact tuner for my 04 Duramax

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001T8J4YK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_d6E7Cb8RW0X78

search around for one that would work best for you though. I just watched a bunch of YouTube videos and asked friends lol.

I'm not aware of any specific products, but if they were out there, I assume it would've just been a standard (and overpriced) silicone sleeve - which you could just measure the E-Nano's diameter and match it to the I.D. of a piece of silicone tubing yourself.

They're generally not too expensive and you can pick from any color/style. You can get a non-glossy style that looks pretty clean (can't see the ridges) and has a nice "fabric-y" feel to them. I run them on one of my cars, don't remember where I got them though...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CB20PD2/

Those are meant for motor/plumbing system applications, which is likely what you're going to see in the size you'd need. They'll work fine, but you may get a bit of a rubbery smell when warmed for a while...

You could also use a wrist (sweat) band. The ones I have would fit perfectly around an E-Nano without slipping, but it's putting nylon near an electric heater. I don't think it would be an issue, but I don't know how much that would bother you.

https://www.amazon.com/Nike-Dri-Fit-Home-Doublewide-Wristbands/dp/B00I3VN596

I um...use those on my all aluminum shift knob in the Winter/Summer.

I have no idea why any idea I'm coming up with is from my damn cars lol.

Past that, I don't really know dude.

Anything else I can think of is probably gonna look ghetto or leave adhesive/residue on the E-Nano...which I'd avoid.

It's your intake tube/intake pipe.

They crack over time, so yeah, he totally tried to seal it with silicon.

They're cheap.

Here's one on Amazon that looks like it will work

This one is cheaper - might work too.

It's pretty easy to put on. Those two bolts, one clamp, make sure the o-ring is in place. It might be hard to cram your carb spigot into the new one the first time.

Your new one will wear out in a few years too...

• Dogbone insert.
  
• Replace any non-LED with LED bulbs.
  
• Change color of LED bulbs for interior (i.e. I got red footwell LEDs)
  
• Clubsport S Center Caps (have a red ring around them)
  
• Tint (find a shop that does triangle windows w/o removing trim or charging extra)
  
• New tires
  
• New lightweight wheels (something flow formed - Neuspeed/Konig/etc)
  
• Add a rear lip/spoiler
  
• Hardwire a dash cam (highly recommend this) or radar detector.
  
• Drop in panel air filter like AFe DryFlo/Remove snow catcher in intake
  
• Automatic hatch pop kit (USP's kit is best), though they're sort of meh and require extra force to close.
  
• OBDEleven
  
  Some would say JB4. I would fall into that group since it is removable before any necessary dealer visits.
  
  Invest in oil change supplies because it's so simple on this car and you can save yourself a good bit of money vs paying someone. Buy some things in bulk and you won't have to worry about not having them when the time comes and you'll save some cash. I have 2 MK7s and by doing this, my changes cost me about $30-35/ea and take me about 20 minutes, which is less time than most people will spend driving to the dealership.
  
  
• Fluid Extractor or catch pan.
  
• 4 Pack of Plugs Replacement oil pan plugs if you're doing catch pan drain method vs extractor.
  
• 3-pack VW Genuine oil filters
  
• Mobil1 0w-40 VW502.00 Spec Motor oil rebate is ongoing through October. You can get 10L for about $24 give or take. Walmart has them for $22.xx per 5L jug. NAPA also recently had singles for $5/ea, may still be ongoing.

Cheap, easy, and butt dyno approved:

• snorkel delete (free, but pointless without a high-flow air filter)
  
• AEM AE-20993 Dryflow air filter ($41 from Amazon)
  
• add an FSWERKS polyurethane insert to the rear motor mount ($13 from Amazon)
  
• lunchbox delete (ie. remove the muffler, costs about $20-25 to extend and redirect the exhaust pipe)
  
• enable Sport mode via FORscan (free if you already have an ELM327 OBDII USB adapter with MS-CAN/HS-CAN switch, though you would need to put in a SelectShift knob and possibly do some re-wiring if you wanted manual control over shifting)
  
  Are you going to turn your SE into an ST? Nope. But hey, you're spending about $80. You could throw another $462 at Tom's tune (comes with an SCT X4 tuner, which is why it's so expensive). It will improve performance; whether or not that improvement is worth the money is up to you. It might also help with shudder if you have it (and if you don't yet, you will, so get ready).

Thank you good sir ! Found on Amazon !
Thanks to you .
https://www.amazon.com/Camshaft-Control-Solenoid-LINCOLN-Solenoids/dp/B01MTRAY12

I have one on my motorcycle. It's actually made specifically for motor oil. It's pretty nice. It allows me to more easily change the oil without taking off fairings.

This one looks like it might just be from a hardware store, though. Not a great idea.

I put one of these in mine.

https://www.amazon.com/Commander-Throttle-Controller-Bluetooth-2007-2017/dp/B07NDXYN3R/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?keywords=pedal+commander+pc+29&qid=1572533430&s=automotive&sr=1-2-fkmr0

It's not snake oil it actually works. It does NOT create horsepower. It just takes some of the drive by wire lag out of the system. Definitely more responsive off the stop and feel more like the power it should have based on the specs. MPG takes a small hit. I run it on basic city mode and mine is the older non bluetooth model. So it was cheaper. I run 180 miles a day down I25 in CO for my commute and it was worth every penny to me to not feel like I was going to get run over anymore. Sport modes are fun to play with for 30 seconds but it's not a sports car so it just makes it really jerky.

​

Edit: I had a 95 XJ with the 4.0 and based on the patriots 175hp rating and XJ 195hp rating I always felt the Patriot should feel more responsive. Now it does.

I replaced:

1. driver and passenger side valve cover gaskets
   
   
2. driver side valve cover (FINDAUTO Valve Cover 13264-EA210... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y1Q3C5Z?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share ) (because I broke my original one trying to replace spark plug hole seals)....I recommend replacing both valve covers because those center seals are probably cooked if you’re anywhere near 100k+ miles—and they’re non-serviceable on the frontier’s cheesy plastic valve covers.
   
   
3. all 1-6 spark plugs (check that your ignition coils are also good while you have them out.)
   
   
4. Air plenum and throttle body gaskets (you can get them both as a kit) Vincos Upper Intake/Plenum Gasket... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PKQBLM1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   
5. Air filter: Bosch Workshop Air Filter 5486WS... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VC1Q0Q4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   
6. Engine air cleaner intake duct (mine were cracked): Engine Air Cleaner Intake Duct... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K7V2ZX6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   
7. Pcv Tube (I might be misnomering this part)— (breather tube between the two valve covers. Mine was completely dry rotted) Part No.: 11826-EA200 nissanpartsdeal.com
   
   
8. Two intake valve timing control gaskets (p/n 23797-ZA000 nissanpartsdeal.com)—mine were cashed and you have to take the air Plenum off to replace the passenger side one, so you might as well do it while your Plenum is off. You have to remove these valve control modules to remove the valve covers anyway, so replacing their gaskets is a no-brainer.
   
   •••••••••
   
   
9. My next project is to replace my oil cooler gasket:
   
   MAHLE Original B32573 Engine Oil... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0184JRWN6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   Mine is pissing oil.
   
   •••••••••
   
   I also replaced my number 3 ignition coil. Mine was bad. A mechanic did that one for me. It’s a pisser. 🤦🏻‍♂️
   
   ••••••••
   
   If you need a good low-force torque wrench, I recommend this: TEKTON TRQ21101 1/4-Inch Drive... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M12284X?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   It’s only 1/4” drive, but it works very well. High quality.

What i don't like is that 12.9 and 10.9 bolts have different torque values. And tensile strength.
Maybe the 12 means something different? I did some googling and the head bolts i found were 10.9, so i think the original is also 10.9. With a weird 12 stamped on them.

12.9 is also less resistant to vibrations, so 10.9 for head bolts makes sense.

https://www.amazon.com/MAHLE-Original-GS33750-Engine-Cylinder/dp/B01GAHIWYC/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_263_img_0/132-0352958-7032165?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CWFANWJ9P1C62ZXQJ3P6

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cylinder-Head-Bolt-Set-HONDA-CIVIC-1-4-1-4I-16V-1-5I-16V-1-6I-VTEC-1-5-16V/352263279120?fits=Car+Make%3AHonda&hash=item5204871210:g:Xu4AAOSwGThbXdMr (these are not for you car, but 10.9)

​

I think you are good. When torquing them down, follow the manual to a fucking T.

Good thing it's only like 20 bolts to get to it. The plastic manifold likes to warp too, and a dorman replacement with all the gaskets is only $80 on Amazon. http://smile.amazon.com/Dorman-615-180-Intake-Manifold/dp/B000C17G5E

Motor mount / torque dampener. The knobbish part is probably a harmonic dampener for some vibration frequency.

Edit: Looks like it's also referred to as a torque strut in some aftermarket catlogs. Here it is on Prime for $20.

Pretty important. You really don't want the engine rattling around in there and putting all that vibrational stress on everything. Fortunately, they're cheap and easy to replace.