(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best automotive paints & primers

This guy is a little eccentric, but his videos are really helpful.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dMhKGb_Duzs

In that video, the crank has much damage and the problem is diagnosable before he ever starts taking things apart.

On mine, I didn't find any damage on the crank. The key had just the slightest hint of wear on one side. The new key went into the crank very tightly.

http://i.imgur.com/3yW8C5v.jpg

There's my key. Not a very good pic, but you can a fuzzy line that runs down the length of it. If you look at that really close, you can see that the plating on the key is slightly worn through showing a darker colored metal underneath. I imagine that is pretty normal for a 100,000 mile engine of any kind.

Also in that pic is the oil seal remover tool that I used on the crank. I tried other more common tools and methods, but everything I tried seemed like it was really risky about damaging the crank right at the sealing surface. That seal puller was perfect. It still took some yanking to get the seal out, but it didn't damage the crank.

Also, be sure you know that the key is supposed to go in one certain way, and SNC crank failures might be caused by people putting the key in backwards which means the pulley cannot seat all the way down when you torque the bolt. The rounded corner (upper left in that pic) goes towards the center and rear of crank. If you feel inside the keyway in the crank, the rear corner of the slot is rounded - like the slot was cut with a disk shaped tool. So the corresponding key is rounded so that they will interface properly.

And be sure to torque the bolt properly. The Flyin' Miata tool is really helpful for holding the crank while you torque the bolt. Be sure your Torque Wrench will do the torque (80lb-ft if I recall). The cheap torque wrenches stop at like 75lb-ft. If you have the clicky kind, especially if you buy a clicky one to do this job, be sure to exercise it before you use for this job. You want to get this one right.

https://www.flyinmiata.com/flyin-miata-tool-kit-short-nose.html

While you are in there, doing the cam seals is super easy. You don't need to use a seal puller. You can just remove the front cam bearing caps and slide the seal out. If you to that, be sure to get the right kind of sealant for those. They can leak. In this link someone mentions using Hylomar Flange Sealant to seal the cam bearing caps. This is not the same as silicon gasket sealer. Its much thinner. Basically at those caps, there is a small area where there is no gasket/cannot be a gasket, and the "sealing" is supposed to be accomplised by two perfectly flat machined surfaces mating and being torque together tightly... but in practice no surface is perfectly flat, so you need something very very thin to seal it. I think most parts store stock this.

If you still have the original radiator, you should plan to do that at the same time. We noticed ours was getting old and turning brown by we tried to do the job without replacing it, and as soon as we put it back together the radiator started leaking. It probably cracked in the process of removing it or installing it because it was so brittle from age.

We also flushed out coolant system while we had the radiator out. You have to remove the thermostat and put the housing back on to get a really good flush, but you can hook a garden hose up to the upper radiator hose and stick the lower hose into a 5 gallon bucket and flush the coolant passages out really well.

I needed one of these wrenches in a couple of spots (both of them involved in loosening the fan belts (one alternator bolt, one power steering pump bolt).

Not sure if it's just a Plastidip "clear coat" or if actually interacts with the layer below it, but it makes Plastidip glossy. It works pretty well if you don't go too light with it.

I was lucky enough to find some at a Home Depot locally, but there's a good chance you'll need to order it online. ( http://www.amazon.com/Performix-PLASTI-Intl-Enhancer-Glossifier/dp/B008VEJB3Y )

I'm finishing up an emblem "repaint" (Plastidip) and they're turning out pretty good. I'll post pics once reinstalled.

Edit - Check out the rest of the "Enhancers". They seem pretty cool. I only have experience with the glossifier, though.

Thanks to discovering this sub a short while ago (it must have been u/victrhugochavez who posted the link in some of the other lifting-related subs I lurk in), I have managed to assemble a small, but perfectly formed home gym in a space of about a month.

As I haven’t got the room in the house for all the kit (nor would I want to noise pollute the living space, given that I do drop the weight on occasion), I have opted to set out in the small patio area, strategically taking over the space that was previously occupied by a children’s trampoline, before my wife made a move to put some garden furniture in :)

The equipment list is short (but sweet), reflecting the training I do (I’ve competed in a couple of powerlifting meets, but have been doubling with some weightlifting assistance recently):

• Ivanko OB-20KG weightlifting bar (acquired through eBay and restored over Christmas from a lot of surface rust and general mistreatment—thanks to u/dontwantnone09 for his post here)
  
• Ivanko CO-2.5KG competition collars (as above, treated with Hammerite Kurust and then repainted with Hammerite Hammered Silver)
  
• Rogue SML-3 squat stand with Matador dip attachment (not seen in the picture) and two sets of weight holders. The inside of all parts was treated with Comma anti-rust wax seal and the all unused holes were capped with Heyco DP-625 15.9mm dome plug. Top of the uprights were closed off with some compatible square tube inserts.
  
• 190 kg worth of Bison black bumper plates from Wolferson Fitness (2x25, 4x20, 2x15, 2x10, 2x5)
  
• [Wolferson Fitness flat bench] (http://wolverson-fitness.co.uk/products/flat-fixed-bench?variant=14450677447)(rated to 400 kg)
  
• Flooring is three sheets of external WBP plywood (18+4+18mm) treated with Ronseal decking protector and sealed with white silicone sealant (which you see splattered all over the place in the pictures, since then cleaned). Rubber mats are a mix of 0.5x0.5m and 0.5x1m gym flooring from Origin Fitness.
  
  The planned additions are:
  
  
• Monster Lite safeties for SML-3 stand ordered from Rogue Europe and should be arriving early next week.
  
• A roll of medium density chipfoam to even level the flooring and dampen the noise a bit more.
  
• A lean-to wall canopy to enable training in all weather conditions.
  
  All-in cost for all of the above was approximately £1,500, so this is not about saving money, it’s about training when and how I want to, without having to deal with the idiocy of most commercial gyms (quarter “squatting”, curling in the squat rack, and pumping bis for the girls seven days a week).
  
  Bonus video of yesterday’s BW front squats (after 20 reps of back squats and 40 reps of bench presses).

Do you have a picture of the damage? Depending how deep it is you’re gonna want to start with 80 or 150 grit. Sand it down as much as you can to level out that scratch. It’s best to use an actual palm sander when doing this otherwise you’re going to be sanding for a while. You must keep the sander moving in an area larger than the scratch....think shaving a layer all around so it’s even and will make your feathering easier. Don’t use traditional bondo, they make plastic filler (https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/evercoat-poly-flex-flexible-polyester-glazing-putty-411-p-15571.aspx?gclid=EAIaIQobChMImYjOtbKS3gIVS0wNCh0_6gLVEAQYASABEgJsm_D_BwE) which has flex in it made for plastic body parts. I use that at work but it’s expensive...you can find a cheaper one. The traditional “bondo” is meant for metal panels and it will crack on a plastic bumper. I put that on before I feather out because you’re gonna want sand that down with 150 also. After you got it nice and level go to 240 and then 320 grit sand paper. Then you may prime it. I usually go 3-4 coats of primer. Sand that down with 600. Ideally you don’t want to just paint right over the primer. I use sealer that is meant for plastic parts but if it’s a DIY at home you can probably get away with not doing that if you wanna save some bucks by using this https://www.amazon.com/SEM-39133-Flexible-Primer-Surfacer/dp/B000HAXLZO So then yes base coat then clear coat. Take your time if you have any questions just ask.

Thanks dude, they were fucking expensive though... i sold my 68 headrest seats to buy them :( I was gonna leave my back seats out too, but i thought it would look funky without them. Cheers for the link too! i'm planning on putting a discrete roll cage behind the front seats too, its kinda necessary if you're gonna race them.

I just noticed your door pads too, that was my project this week, mine were really similar to yours condition wise. I dont have pics right now, but this is what you need:
http://www.amazon.com/SEM-Paints-SEM15013-Color-Coat/dp/B00B3HXS8A (Has to be 'Landau Black')
It comes out great, but you need to make sure the pads are REALLY FUCKING CLEAN!!! seriously... if theres any dirt or oil they will look horrible. Use this before hand:
http://www.amazon.com/Sem-Products-Vinyl-Prep-Aerosol/dp/4678615343

As far as the door medallions go, i just used some polish and some steel wool. Then i sanded the old red paint out and reapplied it with a tiny paint brush. It looks pretty decent if you spend some time on it.

That's too true, theres nothing wrong with the Camaro's and the Mustangs that you see a lot, but it would be nice to see more mean big block Mopars driving around.

Short of rolling the car into the hardware store to scan, for best results I'd suggest...

https://www.amazon.com/Mopar-Lacquer-Touch-up-Paint-Metallic/dp/B07CH33FDS
Buy something like this. Spread some on a piece of primered scrap steel, have your local paint/hardware store scan that with their fancy color scan tool.

The resulting paint likely won't have the same veneer as the car, since most people don't clear-coat a house. Some metallic elements also might not show up as well, but the hue should be pretty close

Its a good looking color. Hope your paint project comes or looking just as good as the car.

I just wanted to say, from one matte black 883N owner to another, your iron looks awesome. Its a great example of why I love this model, because while yours and mine are very different, they look like they should be riding together in a pack

http://i.imgur.com/xha3GFh.jpg

Can't wait to see the finished product.

If you EVER need a perfect match for the harley black denim, its here:

http://www.amazon.com/ColorRite-HARLEY-DAVIDSON-BLACK-DENIM/dp/B00BTJN2ZQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394838786&sr=8-1&keywords=colorrite+harley+black+denim

I did my mini fairing and a few other bits with that exact kit...they are a spot on match.

What is the other bike I see, is it yours?

I have an FZ6 also that is about to go street fighter and probably get dipped black.

This will be my 4th winter with oil heat in the house I bought in Hampton, complete with ugly above-ground 275 gallon tank.

The first year, I used ET Lawson to service my boiler and refill my tank. The pros were that they have online billing/payment and they proactively refill your tank when you're not home. The con was they were kinda expensive.

Ever since I've used Optimum Fuel Services. They're a bit cheaper, and the guy that refills my tank (Lawrence) is super friendly and accommodating. The (minor) downsides are that you must be present during the fill-up and pay on the spot (I pay with credit card) and you must actively monitor your tank level and call a few days ahead when you'll need a refill.

After the first year with Optimum, I had him install a basic gauge that I can eyeball each day, which made things a bit less stressful.

I don't know if it's really necessary, but for good measure I run about 2 cans a season of this stuff through, roughly once for each full tank's worth of fresh oil.

From what Lawrence told me, ideally you want to top off at the end of the season, since the more air in the tank over the summer will encourage more moisture to collect in the tank. The treatment I use may totally mitigate this, so it may not be necessary. I typically do not top off in the spring, and usually wait until September or October out of laziness (or lack of funds).

For reference, my most recent fill-up was October 9th for 217 gal @ 3.30 for a total of around $690 and change (I qualified for some sort of discount, I guess).

Yup! One of the reasons why we got a Toyota. It's a Toyota Corolla Le edition. Everything else is in tip-top condition except that! The scratch is relatively small actually. It seemed a lot bigger when I looked at it yesterday, but then anger always seem to amplify things.. It's definitely deep. I ran my fingernail lightly through it and it felt rough under my nails (which I read is one way of telling whether it's deep or not)

The touch up paint I got is actually from Toyota, so hopefully it'll match at least as close as possible. Good reviews for the touch up paint too. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TNNRYZY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It's slate metallic (I checked the color code on my car).

I.. am an absolutely greenhorn. My only experience comes from the various youtube videos and how-tos that I read yesterday for a couple of hours... I might skip the sandpaper, or at least get my BIL to help me out with that part if he can. I think he has a bit of experience in it. Good point about the magnifying glass! I think I have one in my office that I can borrow for a bit. I figured the scratch is small enough and at a not so obvious place that if I do a hack job, it hopefully wouldn't be too obvious. At this point, I mostly just want to make sure it doesn't rust.

Pretty much yes. I used this paint
I first just used my jack and did my right tire but if you can put your car on stands, it will save you lots of time! I first did my front right side. Lift the car, took the tire out, cleaned the caliper extra well with a rag and alcohol (to really get rid of any dirt and oils). Then started masking all round with newspaper and masking tape (including the ground.. I used paper and garbage bags). I Used an exacto blade to cut around the areas I didnt want to get paint on (really not as hard as it sounds just be careful). Then I primed it with regular primer spray paint. Waited for it to dry, and went at it with the yellow paint. Here is a link of a few pics i took between layers, imgur.com/a/h8kPg You wanna Do 2 or 3 layers which i highly recommend putting the car on stands. That way you can mask and paint and switch sides as you go instead of just using the jack for one caliper and having to wait 15-30min between layers. Hope that helps. Feel free to PM me if you still have some trouble

Edit: Sorry, the second link isnt showing up but just copy and paste and it should work

Sure. This is what it looks like:
https://www.reddit.com/r/XVcrosstrek/comments/64u476/touchup_paint/dg57tnx/

You can get it on Amazon too, just make sure to choose the right color:
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Subaru-J361SFJ000-Touch-Up-Metallic/dp/B00PV6PVTI/ref=sr_1_1?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1494958301&sr=8-1&keywords=subaru+touch+up+paint&refinements=p_85%3A1

It comes with a sanding tip to prepare the surface (I found that adding a little WD-40 helps to scrape off the rust), paint + paint brush, and a clearcoat + brush. Great little all-in-one kit with OK results.

Okay---

Stripping started off with a plastic drill attachment paint stripper like this one here.

I then sanded the parts I couldn't reach with the attachment by hand as best I could. This was awful. My forearm hasn't seen that much action since I was 13.

After that, I applied tape to block the holes, and cleaned it with an alcohol based cleaner to remove any excess oils, while wearing rubber gloves.

Then came the Primer, which was grey. No real choice in that, it was just what I had on hand. I think I went through about 2 cans of this, doing 3 complete coats on 3 different days.

Green was next - Metal Specks for the base. Went through 3 cans of this, 3 coats, 3 days.

At this point it had to wait to dry about 4 days, as weather was terrible. In retrospect, I should have waited a month or until the summer had started. I then covered most of the bike with news paper, except for the logos and speed stripes. For the logo I used a piece of plastic from one of the kids toys where you write with a pen, and then lift the plastic sheet up to erase it. I don't know what they are called.

After applying 2 coats of silver metallic paint (can't remember the brand), I left it for a few days.

I then removed the covering, and started clear coating it. Again, and again, and again. I was using an acrylic enamel. I think I went through like 3-4 cans.

Again, should have let it dry more before assembling, but I really wanted to ride. The bike cost me $130 to buy, so it was a small investment, for what was a fun project. I probably put about 500 miles on it this summer.

For next time, I will wait till the peak summer months, find a better stencil method, and not be so damn impatient.

I kno you can use rusto ready to spray clear coat and there primer works pretty good on plastic an is decently priced just do a decent good cut an buff an I will look good

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-253522-32-Ounce-AutoBody/dp/B0070S7VJ8/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1550362287&sr=8-10&keywords=rustoleum+clear+coat

Thanks for reply Laguna.

Here's picture of my hood and waterspots (can't really see it but its there) on my sidedoors.

http://imgur.com/a/ZdCFh

What do you think about compounding?
I checked out the other products while I don't doubt at its effectiveness they seem more expensive..so for my Civic I don't mind sticking to Meguiar's or Mothers.

If compounding is necessary do you think these steps are okay?

1. Wash Car completely
   
2. Clay bar with Mothers clay system
   
3. Ultimate Compound by Meguiars (So I can skip ScratchX/SwirlX) since I want to do my whole car.
   
4. Ultimate Polish
   
5. Meguiar's NXT 2.0 Wax (OR this one from Chemical Guys? http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-WAC_113_16-Factory-Sealant/dp/B001THP2I8) I heard Sealant is better than Wax...for outdoor cars since this is my daily driver and is parked outside.
   
   Any Thoughts?
   
   Btw MF towels aren't good for the paint?! That's news to me...what do I use to wipe the car then?
   
   Thanks again dude!

Here is my finish process. 1) basic sanding for raft and or support scarring, 2) prime with Duplo Color Thick Primer (Amazon link below but you should be able to find it in any autopart store), 2.5) Sometimes I use a latex guesso but it requires 2 coats 24 hrs apart but smells a lot better and easy clean up and works well in winter when you can't spray, 3) Detailed sanding and filling with Squadron Green Putty (Bondo putty works fine too), 4) Regular Duplo Color primer, 5) Final detail painting with Tamiya acrylics. Make sure you don't use any lacquer based paint after otherwise you will basically ruin your model. Acrylics and lacquer paints cannot be intermingled

https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-DAP1700-Filler-Primer-fl/dp/B00R244LN4

There are rust inhibitor paints that bond to the oxidation for the inside of the door unless you feel like tearing the interior panel out to get access that's about the best you're going to do.

Looks pretty good for a 32 year old car though!

Never used that website but seems expensive.

Amazon has this kit which seems nice because it includes clear coat. Just make sure you get the correct color. Even a color match will have a variation in the color. Be prepared, you will see the fix.

Then you just need a primer Try not to sand to metal.

I love carpet dyeing. It's a great way to make a big difference on a car for not a lot of $. I like to remove any seats first to get full access to the carpet. Then thoroughly vacuum using a brush to agitate the carpet so any stubborn dirt or hair comes out. Clean the carpet (I use McKee's 37 Carpet Extractor Pre-Treatment, but any quality carpet cleaner will work) with a cleaner and brush before vacuuming again. Let the carpet dry in the sun before using a fabric dye. I use this stuff since I can buy it locally. Take your time and you'll have your carpet looking like new after a single day. p.s. You need a lot more cans than you think. I used about 15 cans on the interior of this van. For your Supra, I would order 8-10.

• Before After
  
• Before After
  
• Before After

I'm glad you like it, here's a part list for you:

• Planck top plate in grid layout, stainless steel
  
• Planck PCB
  
• Planck milled bottom in silver color
  
• Cherry MX Clear switches - I got them directly from OLKB but you can get them from other places, too
  
• SIP-sockets - I'd get the individually removed SIP sockets from Zeal
  
• White switch stickers
  
• Clear MX switch tops
  
• 62g springs
  
• Galaxy class keycap set
  
• White paracord with white heatshrink USB cable
  
• White PlastiDip - this is the rough-looking spray-on-rubber that I used to give the milled bottom some texture
  
  This list contains the parts for the original build, for an updated build I'd probably go with some 67g Zealios which have an overall nicer tactility than the Cherry MX Clears with 62g springs

I have a mixing mate, in both the gallon and quart sizes:

http://www.amazon.com/Mixing-Mate-10-090-Gallon-Paint/dp/B00B2H7JM2

It's 1000% better than anything else out there. No stir sticks, no paint/finish on the lid or the sides, no junk getting in the paint, you can store it with this thing on, it gives you a much better handle then the metal ones that come on the can, affordable. As long as you wash right after taking it off the can and don't let anything dry on it it takes 5-10 minutes and some soapy water to get it completely clean. It's one of those gadget that once you have it you can't ever go back.

https://www.amazon.ca/Mixing-Mate-10-090-Gallon-Paint/dp/B00B2H7JM2

I'm sure you could find cheaper ones, the ones I'm familiar with you can connect your drill to it to mix. The paint we use is fine for years in the can with that lid.

Hylomar Blue

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-85249-Hylomar-Universal-Dressing/dp/B0018PSATY

My parking garage is extremely tight and today I lightly tapped a concrete wall with my front bumper. I thought I barely hit it, but I was horrified to discover it still gouged my paint.

Please tell me this is an easy fix. This is absolutely heartbreaking since I’ve only had the car for a month.

Here is the damage. Dodge Challenger if that helps. https://imgur.com/a/pOAYDfR

Do I just need something like this?

Mopar Lacquer Touch-up Paint (Prep+Paint+Clear) (F8 Green Metallic) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CH33FDS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tTXmDbR81KA0X