(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best automotive replacement filters

You are correct. $139 on Amazon. I have a hunch this same kit probably goes by different brand names around eBay and Amazon, like these things tend to do.

The quality is good. I was impressed by the packaging, instructions, and powder coating. I work in the coatings industry. I didn't expect the finish to be good at all and I was prepared to re-paint it on arrival. I was happy I didn't need to.

The main tube is 3". It has a 3.5" elbow at the end where the sensor mounts and the cone filter attaches. I don't know how this compares to other intakes where actual dyno research was done (like Mishimoto), so I don't have a clue if 3" is actually bad or not. My guess is that the intake doesn't need to be bigger than the compressor inlet diameter and being too big might even decrease velocity, but I'm not an engineer. LOL I didn't choose this for scientific reasons. I chose it because it was affordable and I'm glad I did.

I had a crack in the factory intake at the mounting bracket that holds the 90 degree section where the plumbing goes into the filter box. I didn't dislike the factory intake, it actually looked like it was adequate But that cracked piece was enough motivation to make me shop for an intake. The more I disassembled, the more problems I found. Cracked rubber pieces, mostly.

The pieces fit well. It included a simple filter shield box with heat protective paneling. The cone filter looks like the cheapest part in the kit, and I intend to replace it right away. It just doesn't seem like it was manufactured well. Everything else included in the kit seemed well made.

And I was very happy with the sound when I was done. Other than this, the engine and exhaust are stock. With this intake it's really not louder, but I can actually hear my turbo and bypass valve for the first time. I use my car for work and I need to make phone calls on the highway. With this intake, it's basically as quiet in the car as it was before. You only hear a little whoosh when you get into boost.

Performance-wise, I wasn't expecting to notice a difference, and I don't. But at least I didn't notice a decrease in performance. And I am happy to report that my mpg has neither suffered nor improved in the two days I've had it installed.

All in all, I recommend it! I'll make an imgur album tomorrow.

Well I will post them but if you look it up on amazon you can put your make and model in to see if they’re compatible on the page you make the purchase on. Again I know it’s for the vq35 and vq37 engine. If your vehicle is compatible you will need to purchase 2 as they only ship in singles.

I’m assuming m35 signifies the vq35 motor for your vehicle? Should be good to go with that. They went in like a dream and I’m really enjoying the increased throttle response.

K&N 33-2399

Let me know if it works for you and if you end up getting them I want an update on if you notice performance increase! Lol good luck

EDIT: oops, here’s the direct link
K&N filter

Adding in where I got everything for those interested:

This stuff is awesome! It's the RedLine Interior I used

Also, these, I went with the rear lights, reflectors and side lights and the darkest they had to go with my black/white motif.

Finally I got some sweet strobe vinyl decals on ebay and the classic challenger emblems for the sides.

Can't forget about the HellCat Intake Not sure if it adds much in terms of HP but it definitely gets the intake temp down on the freeway. You'll need this as well for it to connect to your headlight. FYI it's not very tight of a fit around the lip but I don't think it matters much. There's a few videos out there on how to install it, super easy, only took about 20 minutes. ( Note: you need a '15-'17 Challenger to do this)

1. How do you know you have spark? Just curious. Try dribbling some gas onto the air filter or into the carb throat, if it fires then you have spark. It sounds as if you DO have spark, but it's good to verify.
   
   
2. From gently seated, how many turns out is the idle mixture screw?
   
   
3. Can you run a compression test? A compression tester from Harbor Freight is pretty affordable, and a good thing to have around anyhow. If the bike ran recently, it's probably not this but it can't hurt to check. Also, it's good to do every so often and keep a record of the compression declining with use, it can help you know when to do the piston/rings/hone.
   
   
4. I think your actual issue is fuel not getting through the carb. If it was heavily varnished, the carb cleanup might not have gotten everything out of it. After some running, it is possible some crap moved downstream and clogged a passage that was recently cleaned...it happens.
   
   If it's any consolation, my first real carb cleaning was with a Yamaha Maxim 550 (four carbs) that sat with fuel in them for 11 years. I took those damn things off and cleaned them 14 times (I was learning), which meant that every time they went back on, they had to be tuned and synced. /rant
   
   It appears from photos of your bike that you can loosen the carb boot clamps and simply rotate it 90deg. without taking it off of the bikes. Pull the slide out first, of course. Doing that should allow you to have the float bowl face you, and give direct access to the jets for at least a cursory look. If it's really bad, then take the carb off and clean it again.
   
   Edit to add: if you have lots of time and don't feel like spending much effort, drain the gas tank and float bowl, then refill with 1/2 a can of carb cleaner (I recommend Seafoam or Berryman's B-12 Chemtool). Let that marinate for a couple of days, then add some gas or premix (whatever you run) and try to start it. That might be enough to at least loosen things up.
   
   Also: are you running a fuel filter? I like these guys: https://www.amazon.com/Visu-Filter-Slimline-Compact-Body-Filter/dp/B003CJ95V6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1501077672&sr=8-2&keywords=visu+filter
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Visu-Filter-Large-Capacity-Filter-8423-01-9909/dp/B00SJWGHJY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501077672&sr=8-1&keywords=visu+filter

So I’m not sure if you’re considering a cold air intake or a short ram but I would recommend the HPS 27-122BL short ram intake . Personally I thought that it was very easy to install on my 05 TSX and it has held up great so far. It really gives the car a great sound when accelerating and improves the driving experience overall. I would highly recommend it.

It's an amazing mod. Outside of that - you are right in the fact the N52 is pretty well tuned from factory- worst case you can buy a new oem disa intake, but that starts getting pretty $$$. A good shop should be able to source a refurbished one. The x5's, 330s, and Z's all had the upgraded n52.

I did get 2-3 horsepower and a noticeable sound from doing a silicone intake tube as well - that was a good bang for your buck. https://www.amazon.com/Mishimoto-MMHOSE-E90-06IHBK-Engine-Silicone-2006-2013/dp/B01GA9WBB0 - I also did a clutch stop (assuming you have manual) which shortens the clutch dead space, that was $15 and is basically a plastic plug http://www.burgertuning.com/clutch_stop_BMW.html . ZHP shift knob was a nice upgrade from the plastic oem one too.

I've done pretty much every "low hanging fruit" mod on my e91, happy to share my experience. You're welcome to pm me if you have any questions

You probably won't need jacks or stands for changing oil. I do have to drive my right wheel up on a couple boards on my mazda 3, but my grand caravan and most previous vehicles I've owned I can just reach under as needed. If you want a jack though, I too am happy with my harbor freight 3 ton. This one is "low profile": http://www.hfqpdb.com/best_coupon/RAPID+PUMP+3+TON+LOW+PROFILE+HEAVY+DUTY+STEEL+FLOOR+JACK

Having a jack on hand is a good idea anyway, and you should probably be rotating tires when you change your oil anyway.

Some years of corolla use a special tool for filter removal, if yours has a cartridge filter you'll want something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/ABN-Cylinder-Corolla-15620-31060-15620-36020/dp/B00IZNZOYQ/ (just an example)

50's Kid (Super Awesome): https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCml-eeSLJZ38Q5_sUnUXrZw

Shop Life TV (Pretty effen gewd): https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5jnm5CEnLSEmoQ-ktgAj6g

Well the people in the forums are the people with the problems, but that's not to say they aren't the most knowledgeable group of people about the e46. But the youngest E46 is 12 years old, so unless it's a garage kept car from an old couple, it'll have to be fixed a little soon into your ownership. You'll be advised to do $300,000 in preventative maintenance when on the forums, don't. I love my car but I only paid $3,000 for mine had I done everything the forum members suggested I would've spent another $3,000 in repairs. Keep up on your plugs and coils. If I'm not mistaken the 328s and 325s have transmissions made by GM and no one cares for them, so wait for a 330. I'm sure I'll get corrected on the transmissions but whatevs enjoy the plethora of links.

A Bosche fuel pump from Amazon is $130 and the gasket is $20.

Pump:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZJE9C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Gasket:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0054JTTFO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The exact fuel filter $60:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006Q7HDII/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

OEM plugs are $35, again Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DERDU44/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

DISA rebuild kit is $80 (DO THIS ONE ASAP, It's the one thing I always tell people, it'll prevent a steel pin from falling into a cylinder and ruining your engine) I bought mine from G.A.S. German Auto Sport I think. I love their warranty, if my DISA fails they'll give me that $80 towards one of their DISA units, like $400

Coolant system:
Expansion tank - $30 (Amazon) - known as the most likely failure

Radiator -$150 (AutoZone)
Lower radiator hose - $30 (Advance)

Temp sensor in lower hose - $8 (Amazon)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FU9H9PO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Upper radiator hose - $30 (AutoZone)
Water pump - $55 (AutoZone)
Thermostat - $55 (AutoZone)

Transmission intercooler thermostat - $16 (Amazon)

https://www.amazon.com/Orion-Cooler-Expansion-Thermostat-17111437362/dp/B074K8SXL8/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522204403&sr=1-2-fkmr1&keywords=e46+transmission+intercooler+thermostat

I was able to remove the radiator without being about to tell the water pump had an issue. Installed the new radiator, gave my fan a wiggle and then knew I had replaced two hoses, an expansion tank, and a radiator for nothing. Cost: confidence as myself as a mechanic and an engineer and $295 (didn't replace the temp sensor or thermostat, and I was lucky enough to reuse the transmission intercooler thermostat!!!!!!11!1!!11!!)


I paid $90 for a pack of coils 40,000 miles ago. The entire CCV is $55, you guessed it, Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/11617501566-11611432559-11617504535-11157532649-11617504536/dp/B00I3RBDDK/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522204499&sr=1-2&keywords=e46+CCV


One pair of HID headlights - $28
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GRTEMCO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1



For two years of ownership starting at 153,000 miles and currently at 197,000, 8 months of driving 110 miles a day, five days a week, and now I drive 800 miles a week.

The hardest on this list are the fuel filter (unless you have access to a lift, I hate putting my car on stands) and the CCV, to replace the CCV you have to remove the intake manifold.

The DISA takes 10 minutes if you take the time to drink a beer MAKE SURE YOU BUY A KIT THAT INCLUDES A NEW GASKET

If you have problems head to here or the forums, I feel like I've written a book, but I spent forever tracking a couple issues only to find out it was the plugs. Check the plugs first.




Essential tools:

OBD2 WIFI adapter: $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W0SDLRY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Regular socket set: $73

https://www.amazon.com/Kobalt-64-piece-Standard-metric-Mechanics/dp/B00GR8WEDU/ref=sr_1_24?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1522203667&sr=1-24&keywords=Kobalt+Socket+set

(5mm to 16mm or so, and includes bits you'll really want a wide flathead, Torx 25 or 30 for the cabin air filter mounting screws, and Philips, double check what this one includes)


Torque wrench: $35
https://www.amazon.com/Tacklife-Calibrated-13-6-108-5Nm-Certification-Extension/dp/B073VLDLQR/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1522203362&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=torque+wrench&psc=1


6”-8" Socket extension: $10
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-4966-8-Inch-Extension-3-Piece/dp/B000NW85F2/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1522203436&sr=1-6&keywords=8%22+socket+extension


Fan removal tool set - $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTV8EO4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc150=1


Including all tools that's $850 Hope this helps, the car is really easy to work on, I enjoy driving it. One last piece of advice never short trip your car, especially in cold weather, you could fill the CCV with mayo and it could lead to hydrolocking/self destruction of the engine. If you live South of Pennsylvania you shouldn't have to worry too much, some people put an ounce or so of Seafoam into the CCV a month. You don't need to follow these links to the tee but they should help.

So here's the deal. The 2003 Accord is known for its rather weak automatic transmission. From what I've heard, it has a lot to do with heat buildup. My girlfriend's car has 210,000 miles and most likely needs to push another 50,000. The transmission shifts fine and I want to keep it that way. So, I added another larger oil cooler to the system, along with a spin-on filter to hopefully catch some particulates. I know the transmission has a filter, but they say its not serviceable and I feel like the extra surface area of the larger filter could help with cooling as well. I decided to put the oil filter between the two coolers so that the filter could catch the crap that may be stuck up in the existing cooler.

Hopefully this spurs an idea in someone else's head, it really wasn't all the difficult and (i hope) will save me thousands in the long run

SUPPLIES:

Spin-on filter and mount

Extra hose

Aftermarket cooler kit

Genuine Honda ATF

Extra spin on nice filter

Outisde of the BBK, you can do quite a bit. A 14t front sprocket will give you a bit more acceleration while reducing your top speed 6.667%. For me, it made 4th gear a little more usable.

You can also modify your airbox for really cheap, get a cool air intake kit(~$100), or just stick a cone air filter(K&N R-1100 ~$40) over the top of your throttle body and remove the entire airbox/snorkel.

Since they're pretty popular, you can also get slip-on mufflers for them. My full yosh system was ~$500 and my buddy did the FMF slip on for ~$300. I'm sure there are cheaper exhaust options out there.

They're just so easy to work on! I was not confident in working on bikes until a friend helped me install the 143 kit and since then I do most of the service on my other bikes too.

• A filter shouldn't void a warranty, and K&N even offers to fight warranty disputes with dealers who claim the filter did it
  
  (side note, not sure why everyone here says "GET A GREEN FILTER!" instead of the best known high flow filter ever - K&N)
  
  
• The top actually secures the filter in place. You can take it off, but I would check it once a week to be sure it didn't pop off the intake tube.
  
  
• a high flow filter is for increased air flow (easier/faster air intake) and not temp decreases
  
  To address ur other concerns:
  
  
• I have a snorkel and I have NEVER had water on the filter, but I also leave the airbox lid on (my 2013 has a ~1" gap between the hood and bumper that water likes to go through to the engine compartment)
  
  
• Oil coated air filters require you to wash and re-oil them every so often. The oil is what catches most of the dust. You can buy a cleaning kit or larger portions of the cleaner and oil. K&N says every 50K miles, but I do it once a year (20K-25K for me) It's a pretty easy process: Take filter out > spray from inside out with garden hose > coat in filter cleaner (special stuff) > repeat garden hose rinse > repeat cleaner > repeat rinse > rinse from outside at angle (not to push dirt into fabric) > pick off any stuck on bugs/grass > let air dry (8-10 hours) > evenly coat with oil (spray on is easiest) > let sit for 30 min > re-apply on any light spots > let sit for 30 min > check for light spots (re-apply and wait again if necessary) > install > done
  
  
  If you're that concerned, I'd go with K&N's filter (since it's closed ended) and leave the cover on, but I haven't heard of any reports of water getting into the filter otherwise

it all depends on how you're doing it and what you already have.

for me I have a semi flex dryer hose kinda like this one. so I'll get a soft hose like [this one]
(https://www.amazon.com/Dundas-Jafine-BTD48TC-ProFlex-Transition/dp/B0015UGPWQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496271613&sr=8-2&keywords=dryer+hose) and splice it in with something like this and duct tape. This will go inline and serve as the exhausting force. This is how it will mount to the printer enclosure. I haven't settled on any of these parts especially the backdraft damper as I need it to seal reasonably well, but something like this.

the other thing to consider is when to vent. for PLA you can vent the whole time which is easier. But for things like ABS you don't want to vent all the time or you'll lose the ambient heat. So you'll vent after it's done. At first I didn't think this would be an issue but after reading this and the concern with ultrafines I have to reconsider. If the fines settle while it's printing then exhausting after will only minimise the airborne stuff, but opening the box and removing the print could stir up settled pollutants. Perhaps I need an internal fan to stir up the settled fines and get them to exhaust.

This might be overkill for some people. I have pets and kids and safety is something that is important to me as I've spent a good portion of my working life dealing with potentially hazardous materials and environments.

If you have a window near your printer you could just use an AC window vent.

$47 for the oil and $13 for the filter. Labor is free because I usually do it in the parking lot of any auto store and then drop the oil into their free oil dispense containers. lol

I think DSG paddle replacement is worth it, especially the real ones (not the stick ons). Those racing lines look nice. I love my S2T Performance ones.

Drop in air filter and removal of the snow grate. SLIGHTLY more intake/turbo noises and for $60 you're getting roughly the same air flow "performance" as $300-$600 aftermarket intakes.

Tires. PS4S for Summer, RE71r for track/autocross, Alpin PA4 for winter.

Wheels 18" Konig Flow Form Wheels (i have the Rennform) are around 18lbs, which save a good bit of unsprung mass. I rock my Pretorias in the summer, and switch to my Konig's with the RE71r's for autocross/track.

I also just got the ECS subframe mount insert but haven't installed it yet.

​

Edit: And OBDEleven. Throttle Response Mod, Soundaktor to 0, windows up/down with remote

For completeness, here is what I'm testing now: https://imgur.com/a/WhLov

This cost about $25 from Autozone and included all the parts required to complete the setup you see above. It required no modification of the factory parts. Spectre 8131

It does not fit directly onto the throttle body but I think this may be a superior solution.

This was the cold air <--The page says for the ST, would this even be compatible with my SE(update: K&n website says it is)

And this is the performance

In theory i'd like whatever makes it louder, but if one is better vs another, i'd want to hear the options

AEM Dryflow (Gen 2 2.5L)
https://www.amazon.com/AEM-28-20293-Dryflow-Air-Filter/dp/B00B98TUDK/

K&N "High Performance" (Gen 2 2.5L)
https://www.amazon.com/33-2293-High-Performance-Replacement-Filter/dp/B000CO9T60/

Yeah yeah, they say high performance. That's just marketing. The biggest difference will be the savings on replacements if you're doing more than two or three changes before selling the car. Make sure to get the one that matches your engine, I linked the 2.5L Gen 2 filters since that's what I own.

Surely! I have 6-gal plastic carboys. I currently have a carboy cap that has a racking cane and a filter on the other end. The end of my racking cane tubing is attached directly to a barbed disconnect on the liquid post. I still use gravity but I get the siphon going by blowing through the filtered end of the carboy cap. I actually am purchasing this today to replace the filter so I can use pure CO2 to push the beer from my carboy. Just know if you use CO2 to push the beer from the carboy to keg that you need to keep the pressure very low as the carboys are nor pressure retaining vessels.

I have to give credit where credit is due though. I built this after seeing /u/brulosopher 's kegging method

Air filter upgrade is the cheapest and easiest to install. A tiny bit boost to horsepower and gas mileage.

is there a significant difference between a drop in and a CAI? i know my car (2012 SEL, 2 liter) wants to breath move. 30$ for a drop in K&N filter is a lot different than a 300$ CAI. https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Intake-69-3517TS-Lifetime-Non-Turbo/dp/B00861C6LQ 10 hp seems like a big gain for just a new intake. realistic, or marketing?

For sure.

Here’s a link to the filter


You’ll need a 3in pipe and some clamps for it to go on. The pipe can be found for like $5 usually right by the spectre filters in autozone.



Edit: here’s a link to the step by step that I followed when doing mine

aFe dry filter. I'm running this in my car right now.

Here's a CTS intake hose that I am planning on getting. You may also benefit from a turbo inlet upgrade.

Never spray peroxide on the cakes and always let it sit for 24 hours before you add cakes to the environment it takes 48hours before it converts to just water.

I've never had any issue soaking with a little peroxide but the key is to let it sit for the 24 hours and don't wait longer or the peroxide is all gone and it was near pointless to add it.

It's almost the exact same one from Midwest I just find two tubs at Walmart the outer/bottom one is filled with enough water to cover the heater with 2 inches extra. The top/inner tub is where the cakes go. I have two setups one for incubation and one for fruiting. The only difference is the fruiting one has a hair hose and perlite base. This is the filter for the air, it let's you see if it's clogged or needs to be changed.

Hepa Sanitary Air Filter (In-line) (1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QXRD3NA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qn7OCbXZAZYPV

The fuzz is just mycelium growing at the base I never worry about that.

i wouldnt, because if you do that less air will flow through the light. its going to travel through the path of least resistance. i'd personally use the led's in the beginning anyway.

also it looks like you'd need one of these

Here's what the vdub filter should look like https://www.amazon.com/Mann-Filter-719-45-Spin-Filter/dp/B002UZGCSW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536525444&sr=8-3&keywords=volkswagen+tiguan+oil+filter

Someone suggested that they might have used the old adapter onto the new filter. I still wouldn't be comfortable with that.

This is what I do on my MK6. You cannot beat the price!

Motul 007250 8100 X-cess 5W-40 Synthetic Gasoline and Diesel Engine Oil - 5 Liter Jug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LEYIQ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_DR8Izb3RH6NR0

Mann-Filter W 719/45 Spin-on Oil Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UZGCSW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_.T8Izb5JM5AKP

2nd this...Got mine from Amazon and it's a decent change over the stock one. You can actually hear it "hiss" once you remove the "grate" in the airbox.

This one right?
http://www.amazon.com/69-3517TS-Performance-Intake-Kit/dp/B00861C6LQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426106218&sr=8-1&keywords=ford+focus+cold+air+intake

Oil

Filter