(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best automotive replacement gaskets

Compression test makes it look like a head gasket , symptoms sounds like a head gasket

If it’s getting junked fill her with head gasket sealer and ride the wave until she gives up , some people will advice you against it , but it’s like using meth to stay awake .... it’s not ideal .. but it works

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003RGIWO0/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1

if you have a 2.2L http://www.amazon.com/Evan-Fischer-EVA12372047347-Cylinder-Includes-manifold/dp/B009DJQ6QQ

2.5L http://www.amazon.com/Evan-Fischer-EVA12372047340-Cylinder-Includes-manifold/dp/B009DJQ3YQ

or a 1.8L http://www.amazon.com/Ishino-Cylinder-Head-Gasket-Set/dp/B001G7F2AO

https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Ave-Engine-Gaskets-803916010/dp/B07NTWNKRY

https://www.amazon.com/Washers-Frontier-Infiniti-Replacement-11026-01M02/dp/B071FLWNWN/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2D5W0SVEZSE3L&keywords=nissan+crush+washer&qid=1573502041&sprefix=nissan+cru%2Caps%2C175&sr=8-4

I work in a shop, but I don't have a monopoly on common sense. If you know about reddit, I'd be willing to bet you know about Amazon.

You may actually spend more on gas or electricity to anneal that washer than to have a pack of 20 sent to your house.

Apart links shown on the main post, I seen theses :


https://www.amazon.com/Outlander-Renegade-Engine-Gasket-420684160/dp/B00EHQS6GS


https://www.amazon.ca/NICHE-Can-Am-Outlander-800-Crankshaft/dp/B072BMNL2X

Get the real Toyota part. It should be aluminum with colored plastic coating on both sides. Most of the time if you buy the Toyota spin on oil filter it comes with the washer.

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-Drain-Gaskets-90430-12031/dp/B007OW6MD6

A seasoned mechanic told me about these and they are all I use now. Replace the washer once, and you are set! Genuine Toyota - Oil Drain Plug Gaskets (QTY10) - 90430-12031 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007OW6MD6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fJ6kDb32WQV05

With some light searching I found, $35 out the door (plus shipping from J&P):

http://www.jpcycles.com/product/400-0110

http://www.amazon.com/Spectre-Performance-4790-Air-Cleaner/dp/B00062ZDKE#

edit:

Even cooler filter

http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Gasket-4354-Deep-Dish-Cleaner/dp/B00068OKAC

Fel-Pro 3157 Gasket Material https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CNISM2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_cxRKwbQ12WBJS

Those are intake manifold gaskets.

I'm talking about valve cover gaskets.

Fel-Pro VS 50564 R Valve Cover... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C2GHK8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Basically, you should get this kit and replace all of these https://www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-HS9790PT8-Head-Set/dp/B000C2AJNE

In all seriousness, this is the one i ordered
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000E43BDK?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t1

I replaced my crummy Dorman manifold with the Ford Racing part last week.

The Ford Racing unit comes with the gasket on top for the throttle body, does not need any separate hardware. No spacer needed.

It does need separate gaskets that sit on the intake ports on the heads, though. I got the Fel Pro one:

(Fel-Pro MS96281 Intake Manifold... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HUQ6IS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)

Let me know if you have any questions about the job. I did it last week on my ‘07 P71. Changed out a Dorman for the Ford Racing OEM one.

Just get a new yoke. It's only $12 more than a speedi-sleeve.

http://www.amazon.com/SKF-99155-Speedi-Sleeves/dp/compatibility-chart/B000EPOHUK

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p435_dana_44_26_spline_1310_series_pinion_yoke.html

Replace the seal (again) when you replace the yoke. It's cheap insurance. Pack the back side of the seal with wheel bearing grease. This will prevent the garter spring from falling out when you drive the seal home.

Honestly not sure if this will help but it looks like you can use a exhaust gasket depending on that pipe size I'm thinking something of this sort Ticon Industries - 2 Bolt MLSG High Temp Exhaust Gasket 3" I.D. (Qty 2) - Heavy Duty - 120-07610-0002 (3 Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZ51EMN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5nG.Ab7ZV7FRG

You could also look at exhaust cut to form gaskets like this. https://www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-3157-Gasket-Material/dp/B000CNISM2/ref=pd_rhf_cr_s_cp_0_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000CNISM2&pd_rd_r=BTV7MG3NPTCAVVZ15C0A&pd_rd_w=GcIVU&pd_rd_wg=F7wrf&psc=1&refRID=BTV7MG3NPTCAVVZ15C0A#customerReviews

Fel-pro makes one-piece pan gaskets that are top notch. I just got done doing this job on my '92, along with the rear main seal, oil filter adapter housing o-rings, and valve cover gasket.

Dry as a bone now.

To OP: I would also check the oil filter adapter for leaking. Very common. And if you do buy gaskets for the pan and valve cover, spend the extra money on the one piece Fe-Pro gaskets. They're worth every penny.

tips on pan gasket replacement:

• Buy RTV that is designed for use with oil
  
• Put RTV on the rear main cap to pan mating surface, the corners where the main cap and block meet, the corners up front on the timing cover, and the lower timing cover to pan mating surface. Also dab some RTV on each side of the pan rail in the middle of each side.
  
• Put the gasket against the block and insert pan bolts close to each location you put RTV above and tighten hand tight
  
• Let sit over night, or long enough that RTV will hold pan gasket in place while you wrestle the pan in place
  
• Before installing pan, put more RTV in the same spots as above, but on the gasket surface this time.
  
• Install pan without trying to wrestle everything in place and getting RTV everywhere except where it should be

AP Exhaust 9027 Gasket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CHHJRI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jmoYCbNQK8AW9

I’m not exactly what where the leak is your seeing but if you pull the 4 bolts that hold the rear main seal and the two oil pan bolts you can re do that gasket area mating those together. Be aware it is partly rubber seal and partly rtv in that specific area. I am not sure weather the rubber part is reusable. I replaced mine when I did it.

Beck Arnley 034-0775 Oil Pan... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CAYZQS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Here is the rubber seals I used on my wife’s 04 frontier. 3.3l same engine

Should be standard 3 inch 2 bolt gaskets for the muffler to midpipe. If you're stock downpipe you'll need the Grimmspeed stock downpipe to 3" aftermarket exhaust adapter.

As for bolts, you might be able to use the bolts from your stock exhaust to fit. Otherwise bring it to Home Depot/Ace and find ones that are longer and same grade or higher. The Grimmspeed stock downpipe adapter comes with new hardware to connect to the exhaust.

Exhaust Gasket example

Grimmspeed adapter can be found on Amazon or GS site.

I believe I reused all nuts and bolts, and bought one of these 3" gaskets https://www.amazon.com/Vibrant-1458-2-Bolt-Temperature-Exhaust/dp/B000E43BDK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1453940957&sr=8-4&keywords=3+inch+exhaust+flange

If you are using the stock 2.5" exhaust than you would need this 2.5" gasket https://www.amazon.com/Vibrant-2-Bolt-Temperature-Exhaust-Gasket/dp/B001804UBG/ref=pd_bxgy_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001804UBG&pd_rd_r=JAE2WWAG2H5YC8Y6P3ZV&pd_rd_w=0jIyr&pd_rd_wg=fkw7L&psc=1&refRID=JAE2WWAG2H5YC8Y6P3ZV&dpID=4137PPGTK3L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

http://www.amazon.com/Bars-HG-1-Gasket-Cooling-Sealant/dp/B003RGIWO0 I put this stuff in a F150 Coyote motor with cracked block (damaged in a front end collision) & it held for a couple thousand miles until I could find a junkyard motor. Granted I didn't drive it far away from home because I figured it would fail at any given moment.

A S52 will bring only marginal benefits over the M52 he has in the car. If he wanted to spend that type of money he should rebuild the M52 with S52 internals.

I assume you were talking about this engine? No way in fuck I would touch that thing. Said he put $1200 in head work into it, but has no receipt listed for the "$800 in machine work." His "$275 head bolts" include the "headgasket" he bought, and he rebuilt it with OEM components, not even using an MLS gasket and ARP hardware. That's not a headgasket he paid that much for, that's the seal kit which has a shitty included headgasket.

A proper rebuilt S52 will be in the 3-4k area, not just shy of $1500. Something like this is more what you can expect.