Reddit mentions: The best bench clamps

Yeah, I'm trying to save money on it too. What padlock brand/model are you disassembling? Field stripping this Kwikset is the first thing I did when I got it. Very nice to gain that familiarity with the workings before attacking it.

I went about making the picks by printing a Romstar template, matching scale to the ruler in inches on the print-out. Cut out the desired tools and glued them each to a ~5" long section of feeler stock (1/2" wide x 0.02" thick, meant for testing tolerances in machine shops and production lines. 0.02-0.025" is supposed to be the thickness for North American keyways.)

After glue drying, I clamped the feeler stock in a horizontal position in this small vice, and then used EZ Lock Metal Cut-off wheels @~30k RPM to generate a rough shape (Cat#EZ456, should be able to find for $2 per wheel or less, or even cheaper off-brand products). The slower you go and the less you remove at a time, the longer your wheel will last and the less likely you are to overheat the steel (which can cause weaknesses). I used long, light strokes down the whole 5" of feeler for every pass, removing sub-millimeter quantities each time.

I left about 0.5mm of the white paper surrounding the printed tool template, so that I could more cautiously produce the final tool shape with an aluminum oxide grinding wheel (Dremel 952,932,etc). I clamped the Dremel 4300 down to the counter with the bit hanging over the sink, and then hand-held the tool while using the length of the grinding wheel to remove some of the mountains and valley produced by the very thin metal cutting wheel. Holding the pick while leaving the Dremel clamped made it easy to affect how much metal was being removed with small changes in force applied. I used the corners of the grinding wheel to remove away the final material around the snake/hook/half-diamond business end. The same wheel was then used to remove rough spots and round out the edges.

Finishing used some 240 grit sand paper and then a felt buffing wheel with abrasive compound. All these Dremel items came in this Dremel 4300 kit I was gifted a while back. I have a feeling a bench grinder will do a much faster, cleaner job -- but we've all got to start somewhere! :-D

Edit: I'm in the same situation with the recording. Still have to get my white belt yet though! :-D I'll have to figure out a good spot for my phone, or maybe use my webcam. I agree on the cam, never hurts to have a cheap Logitech cam around.

So I have recently started doing my own scale work. It is quite fun but can be tedious work with how precise you MUST be for drilling screws or the knife wont go back together properly. Blade centering can be screwed up etc.
Anyways the main tools that I use are as follows:

Skil Drill press

Dremel 4000

Dremel Shaper Table

Swivel Benchtop Vise

You will still need other assorted accessories like sanding wheels, cutting wheels (if you dont have a table saw for cutting down G10/Wood/Whatever media). While I am not a pro and I am just starting these are the essentials. Please feel free to PM me or email me hd600s@gmail.com if you have any other questions. I would be more than happy to help. It is extremely rewarding when you complete a set. The first few may not be perfect but you MADE them yourself :)

The only 2 I have successfully completed. I still need to work on my pattern technique

I just did this the other day. After many methods of trying like you did, I read that getting it in a table vice was the best method of taking it apart, so I went ahead and bought this one off of Amazon. It ended up doing the trick quite nicely. That sealant/adhesive is some tough shiz.

I got it with this gauge as well as it's cheaper than the one you posted.

I still haven't done the OPV mod as the gauge is still on the way in, and I ended up needing to replace my boiler thermostat as it got damaged recently.

Best of luck to you! It will/does eventually come off. Depending on your strength, you might want to get assistance from a strong friend as it was still difficult even with the vice.

If I was starting from scratch I'd first get:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LW80Y0J/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

At $9.8 a clamp for 330lb pressure quick clamps they're great. Not quite as nice as the heavy duty Irwins because each squeeze doesn't move them as much but for the price I'd go with the Yost.

https://www.amazon.com/Yost-M7WW-Rapid-Acting-Working/dp/B00SIQ1DDG/ref=pd_sim_328_2?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=BKJ5FP839P8N1FH21F8T&th=1

That vise is a pretty nice deal right now too.

Probably 2 packs of these but they'll take forever to arrive:
https://www.amazon.com/Jet-70460-2-Parallel-Clamp-Pack/dp/B000UBIXD0/ref=pd_sim_328_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BKJ5FP839P8N1FH21F8T

I'd get maybe 8 of these, and pipe from the home center:
https://www.amazon.com/Bessey-BPC-H34-4-Inch-Style-Clamp/dp/B0012YNJRO/ref=pd_sim_469_10?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ECFV96CT5EFKCBM4BQW1

Go to the home center for the current deals on the Bessey F style bar clamps, or HF specials, I don't think I can live with less than 8 of those.

And I'd say 6 of these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0713YHP6Q/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

Based on current pricing I'd go with the Yost, but my personal favorite are the Jets. After getting the hang of the Yosts I honestly like them more than K body Revos from Bessey because they tighten faster and harder. However they have a bit of slop and you have to kinda nudge them to get them to bite, which was frustrating the first time I used them.

And there I've just spent $800 for you :)

Depending on what you make, corner clamps, miter clamps, twin screw wood clamps, dovetail/fence/drill press clamps, toggle clamps for jigs, track clamps for track saw, C clamps, pocket hole clamps etc.

Edit: pricing this out made me notice I've spent well over $1k on clamps... That list is probably barely half my clamps not even...

I made the torsion box top for my assembly table/work bench. It is super handy. It also keeps the top dead flat, which is key for a router table. People build stationary torsion box tables all the time. It is a good design for a flat table that doesn't weigh a ton (though mine is almost too heavy to manage by myself. I used 3/4 ply).

I made a template and cut all the ovals out with a router and guide bushing, but if you wanted to do it quick you could just hole saw the holes and connect them with a plunge cut on the table saw. That's how I made the template, and then I sanded it to look good. Having a shelf area to set your tools that doesn't clutter up your work area is very nice.

The dog holes are also super handy. Buy some of these, they are awesome. Never have to worry about how to clamp something down again.

I have a bigger hybrid saw so mine isn't mounted on the table.

yost
makes a great vise. Not us made, but its pretty heavy duty for what it is. The pipe vise attachment is also pretty great.

I love Woodgears, so don't think I'm ragging on him. That said...

His workbench is more of a power tool platform rather than a workbench where hand (powered like a router or un-powered, like chisels). The biggest problem, which you have just found, is a lack of workholding. His design seems to completely ignore it. Which is fine for the kind of work Mathias does. For guitar building, I'd argue it's a hot mess.

The super heavy-handed approach would be to make a new bench. That's probably overkill if you're not super into this hobby.

In your situation, the most minimal approach, I think, is to reassess the leg situation. And then you can go down the path of of adding a vise or two.

• Replace the long, front rail with something wider/taller, depending on your point of view. I'd get a 2x12 and rip it down to a useful length, something in the 8-10 range.
  
  
• Bring your new taller apron forward so there is no overhang on the front edge of your top.
  
  
• Drill holdfast holes in your apron. (But do this step last). You're probably better off drilling fewer and adding them as your use shows you where they need to be for you.
  
  
• I'd add two vises a face vice and an end vise, but again, your work flow will dictate which is more important to you.
  
  
• For you face vice, I'd strongly consider a leg vise. They are cheap to build and stupid strong. Use a screw like this one: http://www.leevalley.com/us/Wood/page.aspx?p=41664&cat=1,41659 Supply your own wood for the jaw, parallel guide, etc.
  
  
• If you'd prefer a twin screw, that's also cool. Buy two of those screws (or something similar)
  
  
• In either case, your new apron is the "back jaw" for your vise.
  
  For an end vise or tail vise or wagon vise...that's personal preference. Retro fitting can be difficult or expensive.
  
  You can use a standard metal woodworkers vise with or without a dog. I've built two benches (one for my dad, one for my daughter) and that works fine. Something like: https://www.amazon.com/Pony-27091-9-Inch-7-Inch-Woodworkers/dp/B005HPU3DM/ref=sr_1_3?
  
  Put it on the right, front corner as you are looking at your bench, getting as close to the front as possible. Strike a line inline with the dog on your vise. Drill dog holes. Since you're doing 3/4" for your hold downs, use the same here. Space the holes every 2.5-3" or so. You want them spaced, at minimum, less than 1/2 the travel of your vise. If you don't, you'll be cranking the vise from between the extreme ends of travel and that sucks.
  
  Example install, on my daughter's bench: (sorry, old pictures) https://imgur.com/a/uVbbD
  
  And if you're working on thin boards, it works better to keep the vise as closed as possible, else your thin stock pinched between dogs will be unsupported in your vise gap with planing or sanding.
  
  If you have more cash to spend on your end vise, some pricer retro fit options include:
  
  
• http://www.leevalley.com/us/Wood/page.aspx?p=65746&cat=1,41659
  
  
• http://www.leevalley.com/us/Wood/page.aspx?p=63825&cat=1,41659
  
  
• http://www.leevalley.com/us/Wood/page.aspx?p=66819&cat=1,41659
  
  Finally, plan ahead for a thicker top someday. 3/4" ply, even two laters, has a surprising amount of flex and give to it. Not enough for most operations, but if you're doing a lot of heavy mortising with chisels, that flex will start to annoy you. And you'll be wasting energy to the bounce.
  
  Which is why you might want a thicker top, something in the 2-3 inch range, someday. SO, while you've got the bench flipped over to futz with the apron, consider chopping an inch or two off the legs and putting spacers on it. THEN, when you maybe someday make the bench top thicker by remaking it out of solid 2x4s (for example) just remove the spacers and you're at the same height you're at today. If that's important to you.

Of course "break the bank" is relative, but this Wilton vise is worth the extra $100 over that Pony.

This Yost is perhaps a better value, but you need to make sure you get a good one as it seems they have some quality control issues.

I have a 7" vise, and I wish I'd gotten a 9". But, I'd rather have a 7" Wilton over a 9" not-Wilton.

A new workmate? I haven't looked at the different models but I think there's only 2 or 3.

Ahh I just googled them... It's a good thing you asked. There is a cheap one that just unfolds like this.

But the one I have has a foot rest like this. The foot rest is really important because things aren't heavy and stable like desks or benches so when you do certain things on it you need to put your weight on the foot rest. The little fold out feet can stay tucked under or fold out.

It looks like there's a bigger one with a bigger work surface which looks cool but I've never felt like I was suffering without it. If you can afford it great but I think the middle range one I have is just as good. Very few times have I actually used it as a table or desk but when I did I just clamped a big piece of particle board to it. Idk... I've always had a desk or something. The workmate is more of a very handy cutting surface and giant clamp. You can fold it up and take it with you to different jobs like laminate flooring jobs or you know. It never gets cluttered like a desk or bench would and it folds away. It can clamp awkward pieces of wood in awkward ways to cut. I once even used it to hold a steering wheel for a racing game. It's just a handy thing to have around. He might not get much use out of it at first but it should be around for many years.

I have this one (7” size) from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Yost-Rapid-Acting-Wood-Working/dp/B00SIQ1DLS?th=1&psc=1

It’s $70, under mount, with a quick release lever. It’s excellent and hasn’t let me down. It does everything I need and an excellent value. The quick release lever is a must and makes things much easier. Sure I’d love those awesome wooden vises that are the whole leg of the bench, or have the big wheels, but I also don’t want to spend hundreds.

I think I had to buy my own mounting bolts. I used about 9-10” pieces of oak to make wooden jaws (3/4” piece on the inside, 2 glued up 3/4” pieces on the outside - it’s just what some bench plan told me to do because you can then drill bench dog holes in the outside part but I haven’t done that yet) and just countersunk screws through the wood pieces into the metal jaws. Then I planed the top of the wood jaws flush with the bench top.

Alright I'll bite. Hand tool shop

Narex Chisels 48.99

stanley Jack plane 59.99

stanley Smoother 45.00

Stanley low angle Block plane 31.25

HF combo square 6.99

HF Mallet 5.99

Stanley jointer 150

Sharpening stone (water) 33

Panel saw 1 (cross) 19.50

Panel saw 2 (rip) 16.99

Marking gage 20

Dovetail saw 26.82

Vise 26.46

marking knife 9
Total cost so far: 500.97
shipping from ebay depends on where you are but shouldn't be more than $60 so we factor that in:
560.97

build your own bench (not going to take the time to go into details but it shouldn't cost more than $500 for materials
so now you have

999.03 left to get whever else you want (more marking gages? switch some of the above for better stuff? spoke shave? cabinet scraper? router plane? brace and bit?)

You could get better prices for the ebay stuff above if you were patient that's just what's out there right now. the above is more than enough to do 90% of handtool projects though. Just watch those compound curves ;)

If you want to spend some dough to make your life easier Panavice makes products like this. You have to buy the base to go with it but it's worth it to have something solid, doesn't break, and can support significant weight and larger circuit boards.

That plus alligator clips everywhere.

OK wow thank you...I did notice there is no mounting holes... I found this one instead I think would be better what do you think...if u look at the reviews and the pictures a customer posted that's the kind I want to make a twin screw style

http://www.amazon.com/Shop-Fox-D3258-Bench-Screw/dp/B00012XCCA

This might be excessive, but I wanted to be thorough so you can see what all is out there. I am having trouble thinking of anything that the following tools can't do, in terms of AR building and maintenance. This is basically my setup at home, though some.of the brands and whatnot are different.

I am operating under the assumption that you already have some basic hand tools in addition to the torque wrench.

The only things you absolutely need are roll pin punches and an armorer's wrench and some basic hand tools like Allen wrenches, screwdrivers, needlenose pliers and so on. The rest just expedite the process and help solve weird issues that may come up.


Wheeler Engineering Roll Pin Starter Punch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B3NWBVI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QJZDAb1ZFBQ80

Wheeler Roll Pin Punch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EE6GHVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4JZDAbV5YGA8M

Wheeler Hammer and Punch Set In Plastic Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SY07HU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FNZDAb1Y74EF0

Geissele Automatics 10-169 AR15/M4 Reaction Rod https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EY6WFAI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hOZDAbD3JHBAE

Aeroshell 33ms / MIL-G-21164D / MIL-SPEC Barrel Nut Thread Grease + 1/2oz can https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BJ3HE0K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4OZDAbQGRYJJ2

TEKTON Long Arm Ball End Hex Key Wrench Set, Inch/Metric, 26-Piece | 25282 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5THF4W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PPZDAbQ05H680

TEKTON Long Arm Star Key Wrench Set, T10-T50, 9-Piece | 25291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5THF9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cQZDAbRX59VNW

IRWIN Tools Multi-Purpose Bench Vise, 5-Inch (4935505) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009TOCZEC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1QZDAbT8R47J0

Yost UP-360 Universal 6 Inch Prism Style Jaw Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EVQH42U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aRZDAbRHAV73E

Real Avid Gun Tool Pro - for Modern Sporting Rifles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IMHX5KA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bUZDAbEB87JFB

Wheeler Firearms Accurizing Torque Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012AXR4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xWZDAb1SRYD6D

Wheeler Professional Gunsmithing Screwdriver Set (43-Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HTN4EWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HXZDAbQX5BEWF

TacWater USA AR15/M4/M16 Tools Multi-Purpose Tool Set (W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079H5WWZ3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GYZDAbRGY3CNH

Takedown Pivot PIN Tool set 223 556 6.8 SPC 300 AAC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017OUSJFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V.ZDAbSHZPEG5

Magpul Bev Block https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1015877615/magpul-bev-block-ar-15-action-block

Honestly, this is what I did: I found someone giving away a bathroom sink. I gratefully accepted the bathroom sink and threw the counter top away. Then, I went and got half a sheet of 3/4 inch plywood at home depot for about $15. I put it on top of the cabinet and screwed it down. Then, I had a $15 workbench. I got a cheap Yost LV-4 for $25 with Prime shipping from Amazon and had everything set up for $40

There is a COTS part - one of these. It's cheap, has attachment points on the nut (no welding required), and has the large threaded rod (ACME style) that you need for clamps. Also has a larger, freely moving cupped end. Would still need a scrap piece to not dent the wood but ... from what I can see this is definitely the way to go.

Or, I guess, you know, this. Though this doesn't seem quite as strong as the vise rod would be.

Alot of the love of wilton vises is for their old USA made vises. the cheaper ones like you linked are not very different than other Chinese import vises. That looks basically the same as this yost vise so that wilton is probably worth $10-$15 (unless it has made in usa on the side I cannot tell from that pic) $25 at the very highest end as a new small import wilton can be had for $50-$85 depending on the size.

Do you not like this implementation, or do you think the overall design has little value over other solutions? I'm going to do something like this to my old moxon vise "hardware" and some scrap plywood I have laying around. I can see major potential issues with that design as well - like racking when using the dogs.

Super easy to do at home, buy the following.

Golf Grip Kit (Deluxe Grip Kit: Hook Blade, 15 Grip Tape Strips, 4 Ounce Solvent, Rubber Vise Clamp) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079YM7Y6J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UXkpDb59GXSWN

Yost LV-4 Home Vise 4-1/2" (1 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YS401X0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XYkpDbWFH24EM

Sjobergs SJO-33274 Smart Vise
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009VDQ628/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_e8gEwbB115AXD

I'm in the same boat as you. I built an assembly table a few months back, but didn't bother to incorporate a vise or a system to utilize for hand tools. I'm going to try this I found.

That’s quite a weld. Take an angle grinder with a cutoff disk to it. That’d be a good start. After that, grind the faces as flat as you’d like and get some new jaw plates. (make sure the width matches) You’ll probably have to drill and tap new holes to mount them.

Look up a black and decker work mate like this, I hear people in apartments love them.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PTX62XW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419747185&sr=8-1&dpPl=1&dpID=51PQpSgajGL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40#

Get a reloading manual. I recommend the Hornady books, newer editions are better imo.

That way you know what all you'll need, and won't be looking for any thingys.

Here's a shopping list. You owe me a dollar:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ISVWC6/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MAUZ71V/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GSLKIW/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008MG7V1K/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YS401X0/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001MYGLJC/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013RA5DQ/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0001NA29U/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000OQRGF2/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004MCMCYE/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M0LJM8G/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LICGSFU/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8

What type of budget does your team have?

How much space is available as your work area?

How experienced at building robots are the mentors?

What build system does you team intend to use? How many custom parts do y'all want to make?

What level of CAD skills does the team have?

We need to know these things to give valid advice. If your team has $100 to spend on tools the list is really different than if your team has $500. If your team has ~$4000 and really experienced mentors the list is also totally different.

​

Let's assume your team has really limited budget and wants to make the most of it. I will also assume you are using the REV system.

Here is my minimum tool list:
5.5 mm Nut Driver - http://www.revrobotics.com/rev-41-1119/

5.5 mm wrench - http://www.revrobotics.com/rev-41-1374/

Allen wrench set - https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Hex-Allen-Wrench-Ball/dp/B0776C2D6H/

Rotary Cutter - https://smile.amazon.com/WEN-2305-Rotary-Tool-Shaft/dp/B003BYRFH8

Hand drill - https://smile.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-DR260C-Drill-Driver/dp/B00T2VJ93C/

Hack saw - https://smile.amazon.com/Tactix-267031-Adjustable-Hacksaw-Frame/dp/B00ABBUU2Q/
Bench Vice - https://smile.amazon.com/WEN-453BV-3-Inch-Heavy-Swivel/dp/B07KKXQQ3S

Metric Drill bit set - https://smile.amazon.com/Drill-Warehouse-99pcs-1-5mm-Titanium/dp/B01NC25BRK

Pliers set - https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Tools-4-Piece-Pliers-Set/dp/B015X2NHOK


That works out to be ~$110 + shipping and tax. These are the bare minimum tools IMO. If you can answer the questions above I can give you some better advice.

- Frank

Is the vice he uses articulating? I find that certain angles are easier to put force behind, so a clamp like this has been helpful. Also, a set of needle files helps when trying to avoid those delicate, precise cuts.

> Damn then i linked the wrong one :( I was wanting to post the one w/o bcg or CH. I havent found much info on what constitutes a "premium" barrel, i have read that 416r is long lasting, but CMV is better for accuracy? Im not sure what makes a barrel from one company better than the other when they are made from the same material.

It's not just about the material, manufacturing techniques and experience do make a difference. But whether or not that difference is worth it depends on what purpose(s) this rifle will serve.

> How hard is constructing the barrel/upper without a vice/torque wrench/vice? am i asking for trouble by tryingto do that all myself being a newb?

You could improvise a vice, but you risk crushing your upper. Some aftermarket handguards (e.g. ALG EMR) don't require a torque wrench. They come with a proprietary wrench that has little marks to let you know when it's torqued enough. I built two uppers using this $40 vice bolted to a plank that I sat on for counter-balance weight. Worked just fine. You may also need a pipe of some kind for extended leverage on the wrench.

> Can you recommnd an upper with a good barrel to match the BCM bcg? I want to buy once cry once so to speak.

A BCM upper? But, once again, what are you looking for this rifle to do? You may be able to save a couple hundred bucks on a rifle that will perform as well for your needs and then that money can go to more ammo and practice.

Hrm that's an interesting thing too basically a big bulldog clip :)


https://www.amazon.com/Jet-49000-Columbian-Sawing-Clamp/dp/B0000AQK8E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1520996339&sr=8-3&keywords=columbian+saw+clamp

If you want to build an AR on your own (grown man legos ftw) I suggest you build one. You can build a quality AR on the cheap. There is a barrier to entry from the tools you will need but from there on out you can use those tools for multiple builds. At a minimum you will need:

• AR Armorer's Tool
  
• https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007352657/tapco-multi-tool-ar-15 <- I got this one
  
• https://www.midwayusa.com/product/925925/magpul-ar-15-armorers-wrench-multi-tool-steel-black <- the best one and most $$$
  
• http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/wrenches/ar-15-armorer-s-wrench-prod80294.aspx <- decent trade off
  
• 1/2 inch torque wrench
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• 1/2 inch breaker bar
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-00206A-Premium-Breaker-Length/dp/B001222378/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505016107&sr=8-3&keywords=breaker+bar
  
• torque screwdriver
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012AXR4S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• vice
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Yost-LV-4-Home-Vise-4-1/dp/B00YS401X0/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1505016377&sr=1-2&keywords=vise <- bolt to workbench type
  
• https://www.amazon.com/SE-8436MVC-Universal-Table-Vise/dp/B0013E2AQY/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1505016377&sr=1-7&keywords=vise <- clamp on type
  
• upper vice block
  
• https://www.midwayusa.com/product/210021/wheeler-engineering-delta-series-upper-receiver-ar-15-action-vise-block-clamp
  
• lower vice block
  
• https://www.midwayusa.com/product/855360/magpul-bev-block-ar-15-action-block
  
• moly lithium grease/aeroshell 33 MS grease
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BJ3HE0K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• loctite 242 (blue) and 271 (red)
  
• roll pin punch set
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Engineering-Delta-Roll-Install/dp/B01B3NWDIE
  
• You will also likely need some basic tools, like a hammer, screwdriver set, hex tool set, etc.
  
• OPTIONAL: scope bubble level; for use if you mount a scope
  
• https://www.midwayusa.com/product/529349/wheeler-engineering-level-level-level-scope-crosshair-leveling-tool <- basic version, will work
  
• https://www.midwayusa.com/product/189016/wheeler-engineering-professional-reticle-leveling-system <- fancier version. easier to use
  
• OPTIONAL: gun vice
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Tipton-181181-Best-Gun-Vise/dp/B001AT3SCC/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1505017850&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=gun+vice <- I like this one but there are cheaper options out there. Also, no you cannot replace an actual vice with this. This is more of a "holder" and won't be able to stand up to the torque you'll have to apply to some barrel nuts (30-80 ft lbs).
  
  ---
  
  As for AR parts you can go pretty basic with an Anderson lower (~$45 not including paperwork). Or you can get a "better" lower that has build in ambi mag release, that tab that prevents rattling (can't remember what it's called atm), etc. The lower will last you through multiple builds. I'm still rocking the Anderson lower on this ~$4,500 build so it's definitely versatile.
  
  From there you can also go basic with the upper, where I suggest an Aero Precision (~$65). From there you'll need a BCG, barrel, handguard, buffer tube (technical term is receiver extension), stock, pistol grip, trigger, and lower and uppers parts kits.
  
  If you want something you can just go and shoot and don't care to modify, then buy a pre-built AR. If you want to build one to custom fit your needs then I suggest you put down the money on the tools. Best part about the tools is that you can fix and replace most issues that comes up with your or your friends ARs.
  
  Also don't forget to buy some liquid blue and aluminium black just in case.

What particular projects are you trying to tackle? I have this one and it has been great for putting together ARs, holding stuff when filing or hacksawing, or installing prefit barrels.

I use this Irwin Table Vice and this Remmington Hair Straightener and some parchment paper.

Take a gram or so of frosty nugs, compress them slightly, then place in the center of a folded piece of parchment and clamp the weed/parchment in the center of the ceramic plates. Then place the straightener into the table vice and compress until relatively tight. Now, keep the straightener at lowest heat setting, turn it on, and allow for it to heat until you begin to hear a light sizzling. Turn off the straightener, and compress the vice down as much as possible, allow it to squeeze for 20+ seconds (time and temp can vary between strains). Now remove pressure and see how much you yielded. Use a dab tool or toothpick to collect the rosin, consistency can range from crumble, pull and snap, shatter, or wet terpy oil. If it's too wet to collect, pop it in the freezer for a tiny bit to make it easier. Can also save the spent rosin chips to make edibles, or can be ground up and smoked.

Edit: grammar/spelling

It is a Yost LV-4 and a cutting board from Ikea. I can't find it on their website but its raised about half an inch on two sides so it made mounting the vise really easy.

I built several ARs with one of these and a vise block, mounted to my apartment railing at the time: IRWIN Woodworking Vise, 3-Inch (226303ZR) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001LQY44/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_MwRHDbJ83HPCT

Honestly, I'd save up for a real vise though. I only did it, because the only solid mounting surface I had was that railing at the time

Do you have a table you could use as a base? Others have mentioned using something like this vise https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AA12CWM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A1OIIZJKTXNTOC&psc=1

Having something that swivels is crucial so you can get to the back of your work.


On the other hand, having a specialized piece of equipment that's designed to do exactly what you need might be worth the investment.


Needlework System 4 does have a table clamp, but they aren't cheap.

A vise will work like this (just put something soft on both sides so you dont damage the cart) or even a pair of large enough pliers will work.

Thanks!
this is the vice I have: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001LQY44/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The black insert for holding the club is from golfworks.com

Sweet, thank you. I don't recall ever hearing about the Naked Woodworker. I will look into it. Guess I have to start stalking ebay and CL now.

One last question: I am going to have to completely alter my workbench situation (my current bench is a built-in, so I cannot take it with me). Given my new size restrictions I have been considering getting one of these to clamp to a dining table or countertop to save space. Given the relative small size of pieces I will be working on, do you think this would be problematic - would I regret this? The only alternative I can think of is building a new work bench that would have to live outside, exposed to the elements 24/7 (and be quite small itself).

So I was thinking about using a drill vise that’ll put in 1000lbs of pressure.....

Irwin Tools Drill Press Vise, 4", 226340 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001LQY4O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.1qDDb01NTRT4

I just feel so much for comfortable crushing on a table instead of in my hands per day. I haven’t seen any kits to convert a vise. I was planning on using the same hair straightener but use epoxy to these jaws and squeeze at 1000lbs....

Is there an advantage to using the hand-crank over this?

I picked up one of these when they went on sale for ~$65 looks to be similar to the one he shows in his drawings. Not sure how often they go on sale for that price though, camelcamelcamel says they average around $95. The F9WW would be a decent option as well if you don't want to wait for a price drop. I haven't purchased a tail vise yet so I can't give recommendations for that, but it looks like he just uses the same vise on the end since it has a bench dog built into it

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YS401X0/ref=psdc_5739459011_t2_B0013E2AQY

I wish I could find stuff this cheap in the UK.

I've put Madbull rails on regular KWAs, I don't think they will be on the RM4 different.

You'll need an good AR tool to get the Delta Ring off. Leave the gearbox in the receivers when you do this. Putting it in a vise with soft jaws is handy. KWA cranks that Delta ring on tight at the factory.

Looks like

Irwin 226361 Woodworker's Vise, 6 1/2 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001LQY4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7boLzbMF6F5DD

I'm a big fan of this method. Was one of my first projects I did using chisels, I'm a newbie too. Made one of these with 1" pine, 4" harbor freight vise, and $20 Irwin wood vise. I have found I use the wood vise a lot more than the machinist vise. Even non wood things.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001LQY4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hHNKBb6VMB03B

I bought a 9" vice with a 10" opening so that I could drill less dogholes. I just didn't want to have to swiss cheese the top.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SIQ1DDG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The vice works great but I wouldn't recommend buying it now. Price rose a lot since I bought it for $91.
Holdfasts are gramercy.

Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001LQY44

It's pretty lightweight, I wouldn't do anything heavy duty on it and the clamps are only 3" max, but it was cheap and I just needed something simple for a mag block. I usually shim in 2 pieces of wood to protect my desk between the clamp and desk.

I use a PanaVise 315 (link) + 305 base. Good but not cheap.

I screwed one of these on to the wasteboard for doing some small alluminum parts repeatedly. Works great.

Would you mind posting a few pictures of how you did the legs? I have my top section, but stalled out. I also have a couple gramercy holdfasts, this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00012XCCA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and this https://www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-large-front-vise?gclid=CjwKCAjw2cTmBRAVEiwA8YMgzUrHg_vrJ8InPWmbNdVrg9n7lkZsTZ260sqDdXlSAcRanx2tvES_2hoCRg8QAvD_BwE but no good plan on how I'm going to configure them.

I bought this vise because it's low profile. I attached some scrap 1x4 to it as jaws and it works great. It's no plumber's pipe vise but it hasn't let me down yet.

Ugh that's the problem I'm having. I keep switching between a 9 (or 10, not sure) inch hoop and a 17 inch qsnap. My grime guard didn't come in yet so I don't have anywhere to tuck my excess fabric with the qsnap so I'm using binder clips to clip the fabric.

I'm also using a 3 inch bench vise to clamp the qsnap in place and hold it for me and act as a stand. It cost 20 bucks on amazon opposed to a $150 stand that would be just as effective.

Hopefully once my grime guard comes in, stitching in the qsnap will be more manageable. But for now I think I'm liking the hoop.

This is the vise I bought, as recommended by others on this sub.

Formatting is hard.

It's this one

https://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/ncstar-armorers-wrench#repChildCatid=3134114

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1019303727/ar-stoner-ar-15-roll-pin-punch-set-7-piece-steel

https://www.amazon.com/Yost-LV-4-Home-Vise-4-1/dp/B00YS401X0/ref=zg_bs_5739459011_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=SJ1B9JG5TWAYKYE476FF

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007359056/wheeler-engineering-delta-series-upper-receiver-ar-15-action-vise-block-clamp

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007357996/wheeler-engineering-delta-series-multi-tool-with-torque-wrench-ar-15-steel

Does this look like everything I would need?

> 4 1/2” table Vice

https://smile.amazon.com/Yost-LV4-Home-Vise-41/dp/B00YS401X0/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_2?keywords=4+1%2F2%E2%80%9D+table+Vice&qid=1565969161&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmr2

You can get 1 for $24 or a pack of 2 for only $100...

PanaVise 350 Multi-Purpose Work Center

its a bit of overkill for what he's using it for, but its more general purpose than the circuit board attachment

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0001LQY4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mYVEDbBH59YEM

And

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B078X8F1G8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_d0VEDbM0ZQEE9

Could use this I reckon...

I'd use a cheap wooden stool as a bench and a clamp-on vise. https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-Clamp-On-Vise-3-226303/dp/B0001LQY44

Here is the desktop version of your link

https://www.amazon.com/Wilton-63144-Heavy-Duty-Woodworking-Vise/dp/B00062NEKK/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1480364674&sr=8-9&keywords=woodworking+vise

$150 off Wilton 63144 Woodworking Vise. $109 on Prime.

I have this one and I use this with a couple pieces of cardboard on the plates to keep them from scratching the pre press.

I bought this torque wrench for $40. It's been working fine so far. $22 on this vice. I picked up a BEV Block at GT's I think.

It's not amazing or anything, but I've been able to do everything I've needed to up to this point.

I waited for a sale and got a Harbor Freight torque wrench for $12, a punch set for $5, I've been using the Tapco castle nut wrench for like six years now. Holy crap, buy that upper clamshell from Midway while it's at that clearance price...all this and a good set of hex keys and some moly grease should cover the basics.

https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/products/chairs-stools-benches/step-stools-step-ladders/bekv%C3%A4m-step-stool-birch-art-30178879/

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00YS401X0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RIAwCbWH95H3E

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007359056/wheeler-engineering-delta-series-upper-receiver-ar-15-action-vise-block-clamp

I used 1/8 by 2 in aluminum stock with stainless screws. The screw I got on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00012XCCA/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1473043332&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=press+screw&dpPl=1&dpID=31xL2j6BDiL&ref=plSrch

Here you go. Better ones probably exist, but I wanted the cheapest half decent one that I could clamp to something outside to avoid making a mess and then take back inside to prevent rusting in the rain. I've had a good experience using this one at a buddy's house. Also, /u/d0nSocko mentioned that the one I bought would suck for metal (not sure why, he'll have to explain that one).

This is what I use. It didn't come with mounting hardware, so I used 3/8ths inch lag bolts and washers for extra stability (which will be less than $2 at your local hardware store).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YS401X0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (Vise)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018QNM7V2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (Vise jaws/pads)

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/210021/wheeler-engineering-delta-series-upper-receiver-ar-15-action-vise-block-clamp (Upper receiver block clamp)

Mount the vise on a scrap piece of wood with the appropriate bolts, then use two c-clamps (Harbor Freight say wut?) to hold said piece of wood with mounted vise to your counter.

That is roughly $65, you can torque until your face turns red and you pass out or the kitchen counter rips off the cabinets. You can also order a $8.00-$20.00 lower receiver vise block and you're set. Have fun building. Cheers!

Vise: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001LQY44/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bev block: https://www.midwayusa.com/product/855360/magpul-bev-block-ar-15-action-block

AR tool: https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007352657/tapco-multi-tool-ar-15

Featureless grip: https://resurgentarms.com/products/ra-featureless-rifle-grip

https://www.amazon.com/Yost-M7WW-Rapid-Acting-Working/dp/B00SIQ1DLS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1502929894&sr=8-3-spons&keywords=woodworking+vise&psc=1

Its okay - I used it for a few years with no problem

I went with something different when I built my second bench:
https://www.hovartercustomvise.com/product/face-vise-hardware-kit/

i was talking about this kind of vise, or i think you replied to the wrong comment.

This, but I regret it. Not big enough. OP has the right idea and I will probably get one of these woodworking vises in time.

You are getting horrible advice and this thread is complete shit. Here is exactly what you need:

Vice.
Upper Vice Block.
Torque Wrench 1/2”.
Anti-Seize Grease.
Blue Loctite.
Punch Set.
Torx & Allen Set.


The reason people are recommending an armorers wrench is for the muzzle break install. Every armorers wrench has a slot designed for installing one. This isn’t mandatory because you can use a regular wrench but you might as well get one because you will need one to build a lower when installing the castle nut.

That deal seems dead, I don't see $109 anymore on Prime.

The Yost 9inch vise is $82, lowest price according to Camelx3. Does anyone have any comment on it?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SIQ1DDG/ref=twister_B015Z8OTRG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1