(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best bike cable locks

I use this heavy ass lock. A hacksaw can still cut through it, but it takes more time.

I also use a cable to secure my quick-release front wheel.

There's no sure way to secure your bike, all you can do is use good locking stratagy. Lock it to something solid in a well lit place where people are more likely to notice a theif holding a saw or bolt cutters.

I got a Ziotek Chassis lock to prevent people from opening the case, to quickly steal the GPU. Yes, anyone can bypass these lock, but it would be more challenging than just having thumb screws.


I plan on, within a few weeks, drill a small hole at the back of the chassis, enough to fit one of these padlock using this security cable , tied down to either the bed or desk.

• edit: nvm, I don't think you can do this to your rosewill challenger. I can with my R4 because it has a side panel hand scoop thingy(don't know the technical term) where I can drill a hole Like this

Use the U lock to secure a rigid part of the bike to something. The less airspace, the better (to prevent leverage attacks.) If you want to secure your wheels or other parts of your bike, get a cable to go with your lock, something like this. In a pinch you can even use the cable with your lock to attach to something really large like a tree trunk (though it won't be as secure obviously.)

Your story saddens me. If you live in a big city, bike stealing is a real problem. However, bike is way to fun and good for you to give up. To avoid being stolen in the future, here are my suggestions.

Have the best lock you can find. Even the most expensive lock kit is still probably cheaper than buying a new bike. Also, make sure you watch a couple youtube tutorials on how to lock your bike, just to be sure you're making the best out of it. Also, you can choose a more modest bike, or simply make it look modest. Maybe don't clean it too often, etc, be creative!

If you live in a big city, you will most likely lock it close to many other bicycles. If yours has the thoughest lock and doesn't look like the best deal they can come up with, shitty bike stealers won't choose yours.

That said, go back to the camera guys and the police. They can't all be dicks. Seriously, do it!

Personally, I lock my bike with this U-Lock around the back wheel and the body and this for the front wheel. I also keep easy to remove valuable stuff in my backpack.

You're welcome! They send you a bright blue non-removable sticker to put on your bike, identifying it as registered with the police. Could be an additional deterrent, who knows.

Locking: Sturdy U-Lock (like the New York Fahgettaboudit) through the frame & rack, sturdy cable lock (I have this one) through the wheels and secured to your U-lock. Locks are still only a deterrent, but that and locking in a highly visible location could be enough. At least, I've had luck with it. Knocks on wood

Get it professionally fit, or at least research how to fit yourself.

That spacer tower is probably fairly comfortable on your lower back right now. With improved fitness, consider flipping the stem and reducing the spacers to get a more aggressive stance. After you find a good fit with reduced spacers, have your local bike shop trim the steer tube (or do it yourself). A spacer tower above the stem is a sternum cracker if left unchecked.

After 100 miles or so, get the cables checked. With a new bike and brand new cables, the cables are bound to stretch over time, especially when brand new. You'll need a tune up to keep everything working properly.

If the saddle doesn't work out and becomes uncomfortable after 10-20 mile ride, don't blame the bicycle. Blame the saddle. Many introductory level bikes really skimp on the saddle. Get a shop to help you find one that conforms well to your undercarriage.

Routinely check tire pressure. About every other day the tires will likely need to be refilled, if not every day. To make this easier, there is no good reason to keep the plastic caps or the retaining nut on the tube valves. Those are used for packaging of the tube. Inspect the tire for wear.

If you live in an area with any notable crime, that U-lock alone will not be enough security for commuting. Consider getting locking skewers (though they make tube/tire changes more difficult), an additional U-lock, or a chain or cable lock. The point here is for redundancy. At the very least, get a cable loop so that you can lock your wheels. The U-lock should be used on the seat tube of the frame so that it can lock both the frame and the rear wheel. The loop is for some protection of the front wheel.

Water bottle cage: https://www.amazon.com/Elite-Custom-Race-Bottle-Cage/dp/B01278EEF4

Water bottle: https://www.amazon.com/CamelBak-Podium-Water-Bottle-Carbon/dp/B015DJGYA2

Lock: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005YPK8R6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_8CwnXlbqFlmyY

Optional cable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NORUJW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JX1CAb8VGDAVH

Helmet: there's a lot out there, you really don't need to spend a ton, but don't buy used.

Just because this is what I use doesn't mean you have to. Look around and buy what you think is best for you

You might be able to find a cable lock that you can repurpose. There's a huge selection on amazon; I was able to find a lock I wouldn't mind within the first page, haha

take a bike lock. I take something like this I either lock it to a rail nearby stroller parking or lock the tire up. It has survived quite a few trips to Disneyland.

https://www.amazon.com/Titanker-Resettable-Combination-Mounting-Diameter/dp/B07DZVW5PY/ref=sr_1_31?dchild=1&keywords=thin+bike+lock&qid=1570034578&s=gateway&sr=8-31

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One of the ends needs to be thin to fit between the disk brake and rim.

bane_rista has a better idea. I will try that from now on.

I figured as much, just wanted to highlight that "military grade" is more of a marketing gimmick than an actual indicator of quality. /u/JustTehFactsJack posted a good looking guide though for lock recommendations

Specifically mentions "military grade": https://www.amazon.com/Lumintrail-Combination-Illumination-Components-Resistant/dp/B01BZC4QHE

No mention of "military grade": https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZT8KZ1

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Edit: Ok then, buy your "military grade" locks if you want ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

In terms of kryptonite locks, level orange is bare minimum- that gray one is notorious for being targeted.

I got the ABUS mini u-lock which essentially requires an angle grinder or 90 minutes of sawing to steal.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005F3GZTM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1406829689&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40

There's one that's a bit longer as well which allows you to capture a wheel and a $10 kryptonite cable compliments this lock set up well:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0026B4RBO/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1406829738&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40

I've been successfully using this lock for two years and parking in the Bowery, flatiron, soho, and midtown. I ride a cinelli as well.

If it's not locked to something the most cost effective thing would be to throw it out and buy a new one with the combo provided.

if it is attached to something apply a hammer, or cutters, then replace it.


It's $10 for the lock and a cable on amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/Bell-Dial-Cable-Bike-Lock/dp/B000AAYBQO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1422159217&sr=8-5&keywords=bell+combination+lock&pebp=1422159230701&peasin=B000AAYBQO

Those things generally suck, I use a real bike lock like this, fits perfectly in my pant pocket while riding or I can just lock it on some bar somewhere then take it off when I need to lock my board

Yes, those brackets are atrocious. Even when they attach right, the lock has a habit of slipping off mid ride, and rattles around like crazy.

My friend has this leather holster attached to the back of her seat. It doesn't rattle, it doesn't throw weight off too much, and it looks okay too. Only thing is you need to have a saddle with tabs and enough space in the back (sorry short people).

Otherwise this is a solid option for a triple mount that attaches to the side of a standard triangular rear rack carrier (see second image). Only issue that would cause is if you also have side racks.

For a more DIY option, you could even just take three or four ball bungees and wrap them around the inner part of your bike, and slip the rack in and out. It would take some time to remove / replace the lock, but it'd be cheap.

Hows this lock?

There's very little sidewalk parking here in Richardson, I really wouldn't risk it. I usually just end up parking it in a hi-visibility parking space. I'll definitely be getting a lock to tie the back tire though.

I wonder how strong that chain lock is in sideways torture. Would I be better off with this U lock?

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07GSHZP39/ref=emc_b_5_mob_t

Edit: Would you think this lock (10cm~4 inches wide from outer limits) could prevent sliding the lock up and down?


This another lock has inner measures of 6.7cm~2.6 inches, could it be tight enough to be locked from the middle bar?


https://www.amazon.de/gp/aw/d/B07TTRTKLB/ref=sspa_mw_detail_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Link to Amazon: This is the lock that I purchased. Should I be concerned with the integrity of this lock?

http://www.amazon.com/Bell-WatchDog-Integrated-Cable-Bike/dp/B000AAYBR8

Pretty sure this is the model I have:

https://www.amazon.com/OnGuard-Akita-Bicycle-Security-Included/dp/B000FL1BLQ

It's held up well for years. I got it with an OnGuard lock. The lock casing busted, but the cable has held up.

> never lock your bike outside unless you check every 5 mins or use divvy.

This is complete nonsense. I've locked all 4 of my bikes up across the city in various places over night and not had so much as a strapped on light stolen.

I use a single Kryptonite Evolution lock through the bike rack - front wheel and frame - and then a cable that goes through the rear wheel/ frame and into the bike lock:

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Evolution-Bicycle-FlexFrame-11-5-Inch/dp/B005YPK9N4/ref=sr_1_39?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1406032049&sr=1-39

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-720018210610-KryptoFlex-Double-Security/dp/B000NOO3ZQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1406031935&sr=8-6&keywords=kryptonite+bike+lock

I've left my bike in some of the 'roughest' (as it concerns to bike thefts) parts of town with nothing missing or damaged.

KHS Flite 100


Trek 3700

Fuji Cross 2.0

Fuji Roubaix 1.0


I see tons of stories that 'oh it was locked up' or 'I had a u-lock' but many times it was locked with something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/U-Bike-Lock-with-Keys/dp/B00IA6OQ3I/ref=sr_1_4?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1406032225&sr=1-4&keywords=ulock

That you can practically twist off if you pull hard enough. Heck - I've helped someone remove a rusted u-lock off of their bike by simply spraying it with liquid wrench and prying it off with a pair of channel lock pliers.

A bike is an investment - protect it with quality products. I'm not saying this will stop every bike theft in the city - but the harder you make it for them (bike thieves know which locks are easy to defeat and which are a pain) the safer your bike is.

sorry, I was only awake for about 45 seconds when I made my initial reply this morning.

Get a U lock from someone like Kryptonite or On Guard. generally the more expensive ones are safer. avoid cables. all locks will only buy you time. any lock can be cut with an angle grinder.

the goal is to make your bike harder to steal than the ones around you so in a city environment you want to really protect your investment.

the safest way to lock your bike up is by the rear wheel like this. personally I also lock the frame and rear wheel like this but Sheldon Brown and the site I got the images from argue that theyre the same. I lock the frame in part for its adding stability (my lock is a little long).

The rear wheel is more expensive than the front, so its not going to hurt as much to lose the rear wheel. however, if you want to lock the front wheel up too (maybe because its a quick release) you can lock the wheel to a post or to the frame using a U lock OR you can loop a cable trough the wheel and then slide one of the loop ends through your lock. this should only be a secondary defense for your front wheel and should not be used to lock your whole bike.

if you live in an area where a pencil thin coil cable lock is enough then just lock up the rear wheel with a U lock. you bike will be much more secure than the ones around you within a huge radius and you wont ever have to worry.

I have an on guard pitbull with the loop cable (I dont use it but its nice to have in-case I know my bike is going to be locked at night for a few hours in the city. thats the only time ill have it with me).

I'm very curious now, I use a lock unlike the ones ive seen broken on reddit. Wondering how good they are since they don't have a way to conventionally pick - https://www.amazon.com/Wordlock-Combination-Bike-Cable-Lock/dp/B001AJ1AV8/ref=sr_1_35?dchild=1&keywords=word+combination+lock&qid=1569952545&sr=8-35

I carry a bicycle lock with me (like this) that I use to lock gear to the bike. For example, with my riding jacket I'll run the lock cable through both sleeves and lock that to the bike. Same with a backpack, and the helmet gets secured using the helmet lock on my bike.

Combination lock, yeah.

The general rule is to not be frugal with your bike lock.

I think a $20 lock would be okay, since someone is more likely to steal a bike without any locks than one that has a lock.

But, consider that a $20 lock will be much easier to break than other locks. Abus and Kryptonite are great locks. I know that in the US, Kryptonite will reimburse you if the lock is broken and your bike is stolen - might be the same in Canada but idk.

Along with a lock, get a bike cable (the Kryptonite I linked below is great).

Kryptonite 720018210610 KryptoFlex 3/8-Inch x 7-Feet 1007 Double Loop Security Cable https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000NOO3ZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jKFJDb9W8F2AD

Edit: Abus not Arbus

Avenir seat locker. 2 foot cable. Out of stock on Amazon. Avenir Seat Locker (3mm / 2 feet) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00165PA3A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qr-vzbY0A74EM

I have a beefy u-lock for the frame and a portable cable lock (this guy) for the wheels. No quick releases on the wheels or seat.

But honestly, my main strategy is to never let my nice bike out of my sight. I have a ~$300 city bike that I take if I want to leave it somewhere for any length of time.

Motorbike Cover, Beeway® 190T Nylon Waterproof Motorcycle Cover - Anti Dust Rain UV Indoor Outdoor Protection with Lock-holes Storage Bag - Extra Large 240cm https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B071VR8V36/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QbyBCb80MNT47

This is a good cover and I'll attached something you can lock it up with (still need a disk lock and chain but this will go through the holes and attach it to your bike to people can't remove the cover without removing the combination lock

Kryptonite R2 Retractor Combo Cable Lock, 2.4mm x 3-Feet https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00FA5HDC8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0cyBCbBSAGNW9

Alternatively you can get a cable and run it through the seat and your bike lock

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-720018210818-Kryptoflex-Looped-Cable/dp/B000NORUJW/

this lock?

You can feed a cable lock or even a U-Lock through a helmet. As for pants, you could probably get a longer cable to loop through a leg.

The cables are cheap! Doesn't need to be a full on lock. The u-lock should connect your back wheel, frame, and the thing you're locking to. The cable is just to connect your front tire if it has a quick release. Something as simple as this should work (and not break the bank!).

A visualization, just in case.

ABUS 540 U-Lock supplemented with a Kryptonite cable
(A) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HN47G1M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_w9thDbFAY40XT
(B) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NORUJW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_f.thDbBGHKB6P

You mean one of these cables? http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-720018210610-KryptoFlex-Double-Security/dp/B000NOO3ZQ

I'm really new to all this...

I use the Kryptonite Fahgettaboutit through my front wheel and frame, then loop this cable into itself through my saddle and back wheel and lock the end up in the U-Lock.

~$70 for a bigger piece of mind.

It was basically one of these with a simple padlock locking it together.

I don't know if they cut the cable or smashed the lock, there wasn't any debris left to tell how they got through it.

You should get a padlock with the gun -- all the manufacturers are shipping with them now to comply with state laws. So all you need then is a piece of heavy furniture (like your bed) and one of these

It was a quick in-n-out. I usually have a cable lock with me for the front wheel, but forgot to grab it. Also, these BLB King hubs use 8mm allen bolts opposed to traditional wheel nuts.

Instead of trying to get a U-lock around a crappy bike rack, pick up one of these double loop cables and keep it in your bag. It's just a short cable with a loop on each end. Put the U-lock around the seat tube and through the rear wheel (making the bike unrideable), then loop the cable around the rack and lock it to the U-lock. This technique also allows you to lock up to trees, lampposts, etc.

Edit: words

After reading all of the bike stealing threads, bike stolen videos etc. I purchased:
This
and this
and this

I think I'll be good.

No no, I did!!! I have this extension looped in the stair's railing. That is why I am saying the d-lock would be pointless, there would be a wire in the equation anyway.

Long cable,Great padlock.

This is what I use.

With the thickness of that cable, it makes the padlock latch disappear.

No problems.

My condolences on your loss, as someone who has had 6 or 7 bikes stolen so far in my lifetime I know the feeling well and am militant about gaurding against anyone stealing another.

I am car free and cycle daily 12 months a year.
I would like details on the lock.

1. cost.
   
2. name of lock.
   
3. was the broken lock left behind? how was it bypassed?
   
4. type of lock: cable? chain? key? edit: read the combo lock part...those locks aren't what we would consider solid.
   
   I am hyper sensitve about my bikes and locking them up and would like to know whats being used locally and the capabilities of the thieves around the area. Thank you.
   
   Locks you might consider in the future: http://www.amazon.ca/gp/offer-listing/B005YPK9SY/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new
   Free shipping on this one, it arrived in just 6 days.
   
   Thieves HATE seeing 2 locks on a bike so I use 2, or sometimes 3. Just don't make them the same type of lock. The second one should be chain in my opinion. If for some reason you want the absolute pinnacle of chain locks then you have to order from these fellows across the pond. http://www.almax-security-chains.co.uk/index.asp?pg=1
   Cable locks are a joke they can be bolt cropped in seconds or simply twisted broken with a pipe. Only use cable as a secondary lock. one of these threaded through componants perhaps. http://www.amazon.ca/gp/offer-listing/B000NOO3ZQ/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new

The only downside to the Sheldon Brown method is if people mimic the way he has his bike locked up in the image on his page - u-locking the bike to a rack through the rear wheel and nothing else.

Brown actually recommends using the u-lock to lock the rear wheel and seat tube to a sturdy object and using a cable lock to lock the front wheel to the frame; this uses the u-lock to protect the two most expensive parts of your bike - the frame and the rear wheel.

I personally use an OnGuard Bulldog Mini U-Lock and a Kryptonite Kryptoflex braided cable lock. The mini u lock leaves no space for a would-be thief to put a jack in lock and pop it open.

It should be noted, however, that there are professional thieves who are brazen enough to actually use an angle grinder, acetylene torch, or some other power tool to defeat a u-lock. There is not a lock or locking method invented that can stop a determined professional thief. You have to decide the acceptable risk you're willing to take when leaving your bike in a public space.