(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best clamps

This is actually a cheap fix if all you want to do is replace the front main seal and are willing to put in a couple of hours. I would, if I were you, because I wouldn't want want burning oil fumes coming in through my ventilation system.

You have to remove the timing belt and then the crank sprocket should come off with a little bit of wiggling. The main seal is right behind it and will take a little work to get out (I get them out with dental picks, miniature pliers, and judicious use of a small torch to burn the rubber), but the new one just presses in after you lube it.

You can get an aftermarket seal from RockAuto for $3 plus shipping.

The instructions in mklimbach's link are pretty good, but your car will actually be way easier than that because it has a SOHC engine -- take a look at these instructions for something that's going to be more like your car.

A couple notes:

The tensioner on your car mounts differently from the ones in both of those writeups, but you'll figure it out just fine.

Also, I find it helpful to use a soft plastic spring clamp to hold the belt in place on the cam sprocket.

If your car has a manual transmission, that really simplifies tightening and loosening the crank bolt, because all you have to do is put the transmission in 5th gear and set the parking brake, and the engine won't be able to turn.

Finally, if you don't know when the timing belt was last changed, you might consider replacing it in this process. I don't remember whether your car's timing belt replacement interval is 60,000 miles or 100,000 miles, but either way it seems to make sense if you're hoping for another 100,000 miles from it. If the timing belt breaks the engine should survive (because it's a non-interference design), but you'll need a tow, which may well cost as much as the parts. Consider the water pump too. It's all easy to get to in this process, and RockAuto has pretty cheap prices. You could probably do it all for around $200.

You and your friend can do this. This is one of the easiest cars to replace the front main seal on.

I honestly don't have any resources, mostly because PEX is so damn simple that there's really nothing to it. You just need a PEX tubing cutter (for making perfect cuts and not having to clean them up) and a PEX ring tool - I prefer the "cinch" (aka "pinch clamp") style, because the rings can be removed easily if you mess up and need to re-do a connection, and because you don't need to mess with checking each of your connections with a gauge to make sure it was clamped tight enough - you just squeeze the tool together until it unlatches and you're done. Here is a kit with both the tools you need and a handful of the rings.

Then, you'll just need a ton more rings (I use these 3/4" and these 1/2" ones, get WAY more than you think you'll need just in case); you'll need the PEX tubing, get that at the hardware store because it costs a little less than Amazon and they sell the straight pieces which are easier to work with if you are doing short runs (under 5 to 10 feet); and you'll need the appropriate fittings. The fittings are super simple to understand, just grab what you think you'll need and then grab a few more extras (remember you can just remove the cinch clamp and re-use the fittings as much as you want); I recommend getting the plastic fittings when you are getting started because they are much cheaper and they have a built-in "spacer" that helps you position the cinch ring exactly where it goes. Honestly I don't re-use the plastic ones - I just toss them as they are so cheap - but the brass fittings are easy to reuse (but they do cost more). Get some PEX hangers to hold the tubing up securely, I use these ones (just pick the size you need).

To make a PEX connection, you just use your cutting tool (which cuts like butter, it's shockingly easy to cut) to make a straight cut; put a ring over the tube, then push the fitting into the tube as far as it will go. Slide the ring so it's 1/8 to 1/4" from the end of the tube (or, right up to the "spacer" on plastic fitting), then open your cinch tool, put the jaws over the "ear" that sticks out of the ring, and squeeze together until the ratcheting mechanism unlocks, which means the ring is done. It helps to have someone hold the fitting for you while you position the ring and squeeze the tool, especially on 3/4", until you get the hang of it.

If you have any questions you can DM me. Here is a picture of my completed Viega Manabloc setup, which has 3/4" PEX coming in the top from the cold water supply and hot water heater, and then has individual valves for 1/2" PEX runs that go directly to each of the fixtures in the house. By doing it this way, I used a LOT more PEX tubing, but have far LESS fittings so it went quick and gives me a lot of flexibility - now, I can turn individual fixtures off and on from the manifold. Very happy with the setup.

This is probably a little late, but maybe it will help someone else so I will throw in my two cents. When I first started building my tool collection I bought (2) of the Harbor Freight bar clamps you referenced above and (2) of these from Harbor Freight http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-ratchet-bar-clampspreader-68975.html#.Ux35gfldV8E

They work ok, and are a good value for ~$3. The only thing I would suggest is take some super glue and glue on the plastic caps because after awhile they stretch and fall off constantly

Later on I needed more clamps for a large project, and I went to Home Depot and bought some Irwin clamps that were on sale. They work much better one handed and seem to clamp more evenly than the HF ones. Looking back I wouldn't of bought the Harbor Freight ones, and would of bought all Irwins. The reason being the Irwins will probably outlive me if I take care of them, and as per the rule with all Harbor Freight tools their clamps will eventually break.

Anyone looking to buy clamps the Special Value pack of Irwin clamps at Home Depot is (6) Irwin clamps for $20. I know a lot of stores no longer have them in stock, but you can check yours. Link - http://www.homedepot.com/p/Atlas-Homewares-Mini-Micro-Clamp-Set-6-Piece-1888814/204359098#

P.S. - That same pack on Amazon is $55 - http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Quick-Grip-Clamp-Set/dp/B00A9KMARW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394473856&sr=8-1&keywords=irwin+clamp

I have recently purchased my first home with my fiancée, and like all of you, have an enormous list of projects we'd like to do. I am fairly handy and am prepared to tackle any project (with supervision on electrical). All that being said, I have always used other people's tools when working on projects, so I don't have many of my own. I have a budget and would like to purchase all of my tools on Black Friday/Cyber Monday to get the best bang for my buck. I'd like your advice on which tools are the best for my budget.

We are planning on renovating the master bed, bath, and closet, kitchen, mudroom, and the laundry room. I also plan on making a kitchen table, coffee table, cabinets, dresser, etc. The first project is the laundry room and mudroom, which will require tile, built-ins, cabinets, and replacing washer/dryer. I have a tool budget of $5k-7.5k (ideally staying on the lower end) and would like your thoughts on my equipment list.

If you've used any of this below, what did you think? Are there any cheaper or better alternatives I should consider?

• Table Saw w/ fence JET ProShop II 725004K $1,500 http://www.jettools.com/us/en/p/the-jps-10-1-75-hp-115v-30-proshop-tablesaw-with-steel-wings/725004K
  
• Mitre Saw Dewalt 15 Amp 12" $500 https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-15-Amp-12-in-Double-Bevel-Sliding-Compound-Miter-Saw-DWS780/202922350
  
• Drill Press Dad's old press $0
  
• Router Bosch MRF23EVS $220 https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-MRF23EVS-Electronic-Fixed-Base-Trigger/dp/B002LASDGK
  
• Plung Router Bosch MRC23EVSK 2.3 HP (Is this a good Plunge router?) $280https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Combination-Fixed-Base-Variable-MRC23EVSK/dp/B002LASDGA
  
• Router Table Bosch RA1181 $200 https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Benchtop-Router-Table-RA1181/dp/B000H12DQ6
  
• Modular Table base Should I build this? $200
  
• 8 large clamps Jet Parallel Clamps (Does Jet make quality clamps?) $600https://www.amazon.com/Jet-70411-Parallel-Clamp-Cabinet/dp/B000F79022
  
• Planer Dewalt DW735 $500 https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW735-13-Inch-Thickness-Planer/dp/B0000CCXU8
  
• Joiner Delta Power Tools 37-071 6 Inch MIDI-Bench Jointer $450 https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Power-37-071-MIDI-Bench-Jointer/dp/B00IYJCFIY
  
• Vacuum Jet 1HP $400 https://www.woodcraft.com/products/jet-650-cfm-dust-collector-with-bag-filters-1-hp-model-dc-650?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIupH4jIn83QIVReDICh2P9QS4EAQYASABEgIgYPD_BwE
  
• Band saw Model Jet JWB-10 $450 https://www.woodcraft.com/products/jet-10-open-stand-bandsaw-model-jwb-10
  
• Finish Nailer Dewalt DCN650D1 (Already have 20V Dewalt Drill) $300https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-20-Volt-Max-16-Gauge-Cordless-Angled-Finish-Nailer-Kit-DCN660D1/206528533
  
• Framing Nailer Dewalt DCN692B (Already have 20V Dewalt Drill) $400https://www.nailgundepot.com/dewalt-dcn692b-lithium-ion-battery-cordless-framing-nailer-details.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIo6Ddtor83QIVw4CfCh1EIg2zEAQYASABEgK-pvD_BwE
  
• Paint Sprayer Graco Magnum 257025 $240 https://www.amazon.com/Graco-257025-Project-Painter-Sprayer/dp/B004Z2090U
  
  Last question: does anyone know where I can find plastic sawhorses that allow me to put a 2x4 across the top, but also allow the legs rotate for easy storage? My dad had these growing up and I cant find them anywhere. I have found all plastic ones, but I'd like to have the wood so I can saw through it and replace it as needed.
  
  Thank you for your help! I look forward to keeping you updated with our projects.

I believe I have finally decided on my first Gunpla, the HG Age II Magnum and want to make sure the items I have added to my Amazon cart are ideal or not for a beginner/future use for HG and MG kits. The list is as follows:

• Gundam Model Builder's Cutting Mat 12"x9"
  
• Findfly 9Pcs Gundam Model Tool Kit
  
• Gundam Marker Value Set
  
• Mr. Super Clear Flat Spray
  
• Bamboo Skewers
  
• Alligator Clips
  
• ScotchBlue Painter's Tape
  
• Styrofoam Blocks
  
  I know that this sub has a list of tools and tutorials, but because I'm trying to budget, I was thinking no more than $100 would be ideal for me to start with. Since I'm beginning with HG models, I don't think I need a full set of Gundam markers, but if it's needed/required/highly suggested, I might pick them up as well.
  
  So I have read and seen that top coating and panel lining are essential for MG models to make them pop. Are they just as essential for HG model kits? Looking at pictures of the Age II Magnum I'm planning on getting from Amazon, it doesn't seem to have a lot of indents for panel lining. Of course, I could be wrong and be blind as a bat. If I don't do any sort of panel lining, is it still a good idea to add a top coat regardless?
  
  Also, how soon can one get into MG kits? I was originally going to jump straight into either the MG GM Sniper II or the RX-78-2 Ver 3.0 but after doing some research over the past few days, I've decided I'll be doing a few HG's to begin with as I haven't built model kits since I was like 7 or 8 with my dad. I'm thinking after the Age II Magnum, I was thinking about getting either the HG Double O Diver or the HG 00 Shia Qan[T]. Maybe after I complete the 3 HG's I've listed, is it possible to jump to the the GM Sniper II?
  
  TL;DR:
  
  

• Are the items I have listed a good starting point?
  
  
• Is a full set of Gundam Markers a necessity for HG/beginners?
  
  
• Are panel lining and top coatings important for HG model kits?
  
  
• Is it okay to use top coat on an HG model if no panel lining is used?
  
  
• Edit Do people usually top coat the accessories? I can't seem to find any info on that.
  
  
• What color panel lining pens do people normally use based on different parts of Gunpla's?
  
  
• What level of skill should one be at before getting into MG model kits?
  
  

Hangers with clips (Either alone or on the hanger). On the hanger is fun because you can usually slide them towards or away from each other, and the tension will hold them a bit in place.

Vice grips - the weight can be really satisfying

Binder clips - even better are the ones with the magnet on the end!

Alligator cilps

Jumper cables, but probably need some heavy padding.

Chopsticks and tight (small) rubber bands.

Almost anything with "clip" or "clamp" in the name. So, for instance, if you have those heavy-duty clamps that get used to hold down a tablecloth at an outdoor picnic, that can be fun. Or woodworking clamps.

There are also things you can do to up the intensity even with gentle things. Ex: after the clothespins have been on a while, turn them 90 degrees. Or go more for the edge of the nipple rather than the base. Or get a spatula/paddle and slap your nipples to get them tender first.

You can really have fun with anything that squeezes. I remember as a kid using two clipboards. It was tough to get the nipple in, but was a fun sensation.

Hope that gives you some ideas!

I don't have pics of my IBC fish tank, but I wrapped something like this around it.

White side out to reflect most of the heat/light away, black side in so no light makes it through to any potential algae. I even built a pvc frame with a hinge at one end, then wrapped that with the white/black film and clipped it to the frame with these. It made a pretty nice lid to my fish tank IBC.

Remember, fish don't need much light. They actually prefer shade, it makes them feel safe and hidden. Some ambient light still slightly lights up the tank in my setup which is just about perfect for them.

yost
makes a great vise. Not us made, but its pretty heavy duty for what it is. The pipe vise attachment is also pretty great.

I built this one a while back and I was pretty happy with it. My kit came with some LEDs which would have been useful for line-of-sight flying, I didn't mount it because I wanted it for FPV. If you build that be careful, 250 quads are pretty powerful. You will want a bunch of spare props as well.

In addition you'll need a few 3S batteries (1300-1500 mAh), a charger, a radio such as the Turnigy 9X (comes with a receiver). You can get all that for around $100 from hobbyking. Everything else (two-sided tape, zip ties, etc) you can get at a local hardware store, the one thing that you probably want to get online are nylon standoffs for the PDB and the controller (typically stacked on top of each other).

Many times you can but for one thing, you’ll get less clamping force. It’s easy to forget how much pressure you can get out of a moderately inclined plane.

Think of it this way: how far apart are the individual threads on your clamp’s screw? They’re pretty damn close together, right? Well, with each turn of that handle, all the force in your arm is being multiplied to move the piece just that tiny distance together.

That multiplier won’t be as good with a ratchet strap. Each turn of the ratchet tightens the strap a good long ways - over an inch. So the force in your arm isn’t being concentrated into a super small movement. Ergo: you won’t be able to get as much clamping force. Also there’s elasticity in the straps which works against you too.

My strappy-bandy clamp thing for mitered boxes and picture frames uses a steel strap and it tightens with a hand screw, addressing both of these weaknesses.

MLCS 9012 Woodworking Exclusive Merle Multi-Corner Clamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FNKXIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Wkm3AbB9EY0Y5

That is just about right. The flight controller needs a 5V source. Some ESC provide this, yours do not. So you need what is called a BEC. It regulates the battery output down to 5V.
http://www.myrcmart.com/rcx-ubec-3a-input-26s-lipo-ouput-5v-or-12v-switchable-designed-for-multirotor-p-8510.html
You might also need some plastic screws:
http://www.amazon.com/Generic-Spacers-Stand-off-Accessories-Assortment/dp/B00MMWDYI4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450272297&sr=8-1&keywords=nylon+standoffs

Semi-plug and play, depending on your flight controller. To make a computer analogy, Naze/Flip32 boards are like configuring the BIOS. Not complicated, but does take some learning and fiddling. Something like a CC3D board (which might be an option on your bundle) is more like a UEFI with a set-up wizard and auto-OC. Super friendly to first timers, but the other boards do end up with more tweak-able options. I run a CC3D but I'm in the minority here.

Other than that, your props are way to big (5" or 6" for these quads), your battery is too big and heavy (1000-1400mAh is standard). But you have the majority of the key parts in that basket and it would almost fly as-is. Just need that BEC and smaller props. I would grab LOTS of props. At least 10 sets of a standard 5" props. As much as the rest of the MyRCMart stuff is high quality, the props I got from them were awful and shattered if you looked at them funny. A user from this board sells bulk props. This is a bundle of 40 (10 full sets).
http://thebulkpropguy.com/products/10-sets-orange-black-gemfan-5030-2-blade-multirotor-total-qty-40-props

Check a build video series like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8jbpwqCCVbs

A new workmate? I haven't looked at the different models but I think there's only 2 or 3.

Ahh I just googled them... It's a good thing you asked. There is a cheap one that just unfolds like this.

But the one I have has a foot rest like this. The foot rest is really important because things aren't heavy and stable like desks or benches so when you do certain things on it you need to put your weight on the foot rest. The little fold out feet can stay tucked under or fold out.

It looks like there's a bigger one with a bigger work surface which looks cool but I've never felt like I was suffering without it. If you can afford it great but I think the middle range one I have is just as good. Very few times have I actually used it as a table or desk but when I did I just clamped a big piece of particle board to it. Idk... I've always had a desk or something. The workmate is more of a very handy cutting surface and giant clamp. You can fold it up and take it with you to different jobs like laminate flooring jobs or you know. It never gets cluttered like a desk or bench would and it folds away. It can clamp awkward pieces of wood in awkward ways to cut. I once even used it to hold a steering wheel for a racing game. It's just a handy thing to have around. He might not get much use out of it at first but it should be around for many years.

I worked in a frame shop at a craft store and also at local shop in college and we had a under pin machine. We did one corner at a time using a corner clamp that the resting surface was level with a large table. If clamps from the inside rabbit to the outside of the frame and should work well for your profile. Glue and brad nail (manually with counter sink punch). Dry fit first and make sure its square (all opposite sides exactly the same length and that your angles are 45 dead on. If we were making the frame I would do any shaping or profiling first if making the molding. Making the 4 side longer and miter the corners last. If not we would use a chop service where you order the molding you want (they cut them square and 45) and mail you the lengths.

IF all your angles are correct and you lengths are the same it will fit nicely. If you have small gaps you can fill and mix some of your sander shavings with the filler or epoxy. We used a colored putty that never hardens to fill small gaps. you could mix it to what you needed. With the inset it will be harder. It would be easier to dry fit using a strap clamp to check your gaps. IF there are any shorten the legs as little as possible to correct if what your framing will allow. That way you don't have to use any filler or a burnishing rod to close the gaps.

Amazon one:

​

https://www.amazon.com/HORUSDY-Quick-Jaw-Welding-Wood-working-Framing/dp/B07BWFB2BK/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=pony+corner+clamps&qid=1563289042&s=power-hand-tools&sr=1-10

​

https://www.amazon.com/MLCS-9012-Woodworking-Exclusive-Multi-Corner/dp/B000FNKXIG/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=pony+corner+clamps&qid=1563289042&s=power-hand-tools&sr=1-12

​

The video I assume is putting a square onto the bench and using wedges to tighten it. That works as well.

​

Putty: https://framing4yourself.com/shop/products/other-picture-frame-making-supplies/amaco-filler-putty/

The square we used : https://framing4yourself.com/shop/products/tools-for-clamping-picture-frames/framing4yourself-miter-vise/

It is a clamp from Kreg - by reco from my future father in law.

I got mine from Lowe's for about $20 (not sure of your area so not sure if you can it in a store nearby but here is a link to the one I got just so you can check it out and find out).

Such a great little purchase. Kreg and Rockler make the best stuff.

This is the one I picked up. - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UOOTCS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Probably more than you need, but I've been thrilled with the value considering I use it for youtube videos, site commercials, and of course, now Twitch.

You could probably just get away with this - http://www.amazon.com/6x9-Chromakey-Backdrop-Background-Fancierstudio/dp/B001PCQTDO/ref=pd_cp_p_3

Make sure you have something to set it up with, either a wall, piece of foamboard, or get a frame like this - http://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Adjustable-Background-Backdrop-Support/dp/B00E6GRHBO/ref=pd_bxgy_p_text_y

If you get the frame, don't neglect the spring clamps - http://www.amazon.com/Cheaplights-PCS-3-75-Spring-Clamps/dp/B0019SHZU0/ref=pd_bxgy_p_text_z though I got mine (metal and more robust) from Home Depot.

Best way to rig any DSLR/DSLM camera is to start off with a good cage. This will give you mounting options, and you can start building up as needs arise (sort of like buying a small house and adding extensions when your family grows).

I am a really big fan of smallrig products, and I'd recommend on getting this one.

I have 3 too many, want some?

Just kidding. Every time I go to the tool store(), I buy one of those:

https://www.amazon.com/Bessey-KLI3-012-12-Inch-Ratcheting-KliKlamp/dp/B00008K2TE/ref=sr_1_23?ie=UTF8&qid=1503427483&sr=8-23&keywords=bessey%2Bclamp&th=1


They are expensive and not really heavy-duty, but weigh almost nothing and handle extremely nice. Luxury, maybe. And I cannot judge them for (semi-)professional use, but I love them! I only do a little woodworking as a hobby.


() On a side note, I try not to go to the tool store that often :-).

It really depends on what you want to start building? Any ideas of what your first 5 projects are? For woodworking, I'd get the following.

1. A saw of some time type. Either...
   a) Circular saw. It will make fast work of cutting sheet goods, it's possible to rip boards with decent accuracy, and you can cross cut as well. Super versatile because you can make several jigs and use different blades for hardwoods, plywoods, and even tile. For light, occasional work, you won't notice a difference between a $50 Skil model and a $120 DeWALT model. Just don't drop it.
   b) Jig saw. You can also cut plywood and hardwoods with a jig saw, but the results will not be as good. The benefit of a jig saw is that you can make circular (or any shape really) cuts. You can make a low more artsy stuff with a jig saw.
   
   
2. A drill/driver
   http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-PCCK602L2-Lithium-Tool-Combo/dp/B00CM7Z2KW/
   I'd suggest a a drill and impact driver set. You can get away with just a drill and use it to drive screws as well. However, with the combo sets, I was able to pick up an impact driver and a flashlight with a carrying case that uses the same batteries for about $20 more than just a drill and 2 batteries alone. The impact driver will allow you to drive 3-1/2" screws into studs like butter.
   
   
3. Kreg Pocket Hole Jig
   http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B000J43A7W
   This bad boy has made furniture makers out of many that wouldn't be able to in the past. You'll need a good clamp to use with it. Just search YouTube for videos about building stuff. Ana White uses pocket holes on every thing and she makes decent stuff.
   
   
4. Clamps
   "A woodworker never has enough clamps." Everyone knows this.
   http://www.amazon.com/Jorgensen-3724-HD-24-Inch-Heavy-Duty-Steel/dp/B00005R1HY
   http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Quick-Grip-Clamp-Set/dp/B00A9KMARW/
   I have 6 of the 24" clamps, 8 of the Irwin Quick Grip clamps, and a handful of spring clamps. I've been able to build just about anything with that many clamps... but I've wanted more. If you use the pocket hole system, you'll want to clamp pieces together before you drive the screws.
   
   
5. A bench
   I went to a Habitat for Humanity ReStore and picked up an old particle board desk that is about 300 lbs for $20. That's what I use. Otherwise, you can build one from 2x4s with the tools above and build your skills.
   
   
6. Various tools
   Squares, Drill bits, Driver bits....
   I usually pick up something new for every project I start.
   
   
   That's about $500 worth of tools and is the barest of bare bones I'd suggest someone to start with if they want to build bookshelves etc. The most important thing you can have is knowledge and YouTube/Reddit is the best place to get it if you don't have a woodworker to physically teach you.

The cheap way to go about this, since I'll bet your pickets are cupped along the width -- cup side towards the fence rail, screw it down to push the cup out. Letting the fasteners do all of the flattening work is what most people, especially contractors, do in situations like that.

The easiest jig to make for this is a piece of flat material and a pair of hold down clamps. This style is cheap, but works. This style is more effective, but expensive. The idea being to do something like this, but I would have your clamps on the side instead of the ends since that board probably has a lot of weird twists and warp in it.

I'd opt for the first option, though -- they're going to get sprung out of line with each other again sooner or later, and you're probably better off not exposing new material if you can.

Alright I'll bite. Hand tool shop

Narex Chisels 48.99

stanley Jack plane 59.99

stanley Smoother 45.00

Stanley low angle Block plane 31.25

HF combo square 6.99

HF Mallet 5.99

Stanley jointer 150

Sharpening stone (water) 33

Panel saw 1 (cross) 19.50

Panel saw 2 (rip) 16.99

Marking gage 20

Dovetail saw 26.82

Vise 26.46

marking knife 9
Total cost so far: 500.97
shipping from ebay depends on where you are but shouldn't be more than $60 so we factor that in:
560.97

build your own bench (not going to take the time to go into details but it shouldn't cost more than $500 for materials
so now you have

999.03 left to get whever else you want (more marking gages? switch some of the above for better stuff? spoke shave? cabinet scraper? router plane? brace and bit?)

You could get better prices for the ebay stuff above if you were patient that's just what's out there right now. the above is more than enough to do 90% of handtool projects though. Just watch those compound curves ;)

The G7 is an upgrade for sure. The T2i does 1080 video (what Canon calls 1080-might be upscaled for all I know), and you're looking at 4K video on the Panasonic that you can do a lot more with. It'll be a lot clearer and easier to work with, especially if you punch in in post.

As far as getting a C100 mk II, I would definitely take that over the Panasonic since it's a true cinema camera, but that's an added price. With that said, there's a few things you can do to make that Panasonic a lot more usable.

1. You could use Canon EF mount cinema lenses on it, by using a Speedbooster.
   
   
2. Add a SmallRig cage with rails, follow focus, and audio recorder, that way you have more better audio quality and control over your focus.
   
   
   I would be going for the G7 if I were you. It is a huge step up from the T2i.

Well, I misspoke on the price. It's actually $13.30/each for 10' 1/2" iron pipe. Throw in the Bessey BPC-H12 clamps, and the cost then goes up to $24.02/clamp. Now, $24 for a 10' bar clamp is a fantastic deal. I don't really need 10' clamps; I need 5' clamps. So really I'm looking at $34.74/2 clamps ($17.37/clamp)--still a great deal. The thing is, I need about 8 clamps, or $138.96. This is where I have a problem with the price -- it's not that I don't think $138.96 is fantastic for 8 5' bar clamps, especially when Amazon sells 5' clamps for $37.36/clamp. But, if I can find pipes for less than $13.30 for 10' (or $6.65/5'), then why not try?

TL;DR: You're right, $13.30 is inexpensive, but I want it to be even more inexpensive. :)

Literally bought this same jig from Lowes a few days ago. It does need a a clamp that goes with it. It's $16ish itself.

Kreg KHC-PREMIUM Face Clamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DC9UR8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3hsCybPEFV0BQ

The thing works amazing and is super cool (I'd never heard of one before so it's exciting). Make sure you watch YouTube and read the instructions. I messed up twice setting it up.


Also look into the screws they sell. Pretty cheap. But they match the driver that comes with it.

OK wow thank you...I did notice there is no mounting holes... I found this one instead I think would be better what do you think...if u look at the reviews and the pictures a customer posted that's the kind I want to make a twin screw style

http://www.amazon.com/Shop-Fox-D3258-Bench-Screw/dp/B00012XCCA

heres two of the biggest, Duct tape, and crazy glue. trust me.
on a less personal experience note, id recommend extra cables as many as you can carry, or a cable kit if you make your own. any adaptors in bulk you may use and store them in two separate places. when stuff goes missing its great to have a backup box of emergency stuff. actually id recommend also if you are planning any outdoor gigs, plastic drop cloths and larger golf umbrellas if you have room.

Edit* oh a just remembered, these little beauties saved me a hew times as a sound tech. https://www.amazon.com/Cheaplights-PCS-3-75-Spring-Clamps/dp/B0019SHZU0

Yes, you're on the right track. I bolted one of these ,which used to be $10 cheaper, to a 2 by 6 with some rubber on bottom. I just clamp it to a sturdy table with some of these.

Works great and even held up on removing a REALLY tough barrel nut.

Edit: bonus is you can drill a hole part way through in the wood for driving out pins.

Definitely clamps! Others have mentioned various kinds - I have various, but ones similar to this:
http://www.amazon.com/Bessey-KLI3-012-12-Inch-Ratcheting-KliKlamp/dp/B00008K2TE

Are super handy and quick - not so much for glue-ups but for general quick clamping of things - tools, wood, etc.

Also a bench vice! Almost the first thing you need...

There is a COTS part - one of these. It's cheap, has attachment points on the nut (no welding required), and has the large threaded rod (ACME style) that you need for clamps. Also has a larger, freely moving cupped end. Would still need a scrap piece to not dent the wood but ... from what I can see this is definitely the way to go.

Or, I guess, you know, this. Though this doesn't seem quite as strong as the vise rod would be.

Do you not like this implementation, or do you think the overall design has little value over other solutions? I'm going to do something like this to my old moxon vise "hardware" and some scrap plywood I have laying around. I can see major potential issues with that design as well - like racking when using the dogs.

If you need a super quick fix - i would just cap off the red one (from your pick it looks like the red one came disconnected. However i would simply fix the whole thing. Also, if your faucet has a single handle - water could leak from cold side to hot side.

The issue is figuring out if your faucet itself is done for. They are often made out of plastic and if the plastic cracked, you cannot really fix it and need to replace the whole faucet.

​

Pex is REALLY easy to work with. You need a ring cincher, rings, and some fittings.

If the sink is ok, i would guess from this limited photo that does not actually let me see the hot side threaded connection - that you need a 90 degree female threaded fitting.

​

Example of cinch rings (i prefer them over crimp ring)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GU4YXA2

Cinch tool: here is an all in one kit

https://www.amazon.com/iCrimp-Cinch-Tool-Removing-function/dp/B07CCH5JWG

90 degree elbow (this price seems high )

https://www.amazon.com/SharkBite-UC532LFA-2-Inch-Swivel-Packaging/dp/B00A8HSWIC

​

If you have more photos or more questions let me know. I have totally redone all pex plumbing and faucets in a camper, as well as service other pex in other campers and my house.

​

Edit to add:

​

If this was during cold winter storage - i would suspect cracked plastic. Pex itself normally does not split, but plastic fittings (be it the elbows in the pex- faucets etc). I have come to expect the valve in my toilet to freeze each time. This winter instead of just blowing out the water lines, i actually filled with rv antifreeze and it worked! nothing was damaged. Last year i had to replace a toilet valve and the little filter window thingy on the water pump.

​

I would also suspect that the faucet is cracked even if you fix the connection, there is more cracked inside and it might leak. You can upgrade to a residential fautcet. Yes it adds weight, but might be worth it.

​

As i have plastic elbows etc break, i replace them with metal. It lasts longer.

These are the clamps I used. The GF can get a bit crafty, and had these already from something else she was making.

I used 2 clamps, with some felt so the feat didn't mark anything up. I pressed the screen down first by hand (and a microfiber screen cloth) to make sure it was down and there, then just let the clamps hold it. After an hour of heating up, I shut it off and left it overnight to cool (though you don't really need that much time, this was my replacement so I wasn't using it anyway).

My co-worker did his in 3-4 hours time total.

Sjobergs SJO-33274 Smart Vise
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009VDQ628/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_e8gEwbB115AXD

I'm in the same boat as you. I built an assembly table a few months back, but didn't bother to incorporate a vise or a system to utilize for hand tools. I'm going to try this I found.

Look up a black and decker work mate like this, I hear people in apartments love them.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PTX62XW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419747185&sr=8-1&dpPl=1&dpID=51PQpSgajGL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40#

How about you mount the wheel to a piece of wood using screws, but give yourself enough room each side to use some nice, cheap, woodworking clamps to secure the whole assembly to your desk?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TKIUL84/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491866136&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=clamp+sets+for+woodworking&dpPl=1&dpID=41GO%2BbfhSGL&ref=plSrch

Hold down clamp aren't available at Lowes as far as I know. Your best bet is either a local Rockler store which is the manufacture of that one that you linked to or Amazon.

Direct link here:

Rockler Deluxe Hold Down Clamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002MMMSTU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_R27Jwb6GCXTVV

Incra version:

INCRA Build-It Hold Down Clamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000W07PEM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_t37Jwb4V8DJX3

The t track you'll need:

Shop Fox D2725 36-Inch T-Slot Track https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DD1O9/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_v47JwbX3GA2F9

I like pipe clamps because they are versatile, you can buy different size pipes for different projects instead of having to buy new big long clamps. like these... and then you just get whatever size pipes you want. they also sell 3/4" versions if you want something beefier.

https://www.amazon.com/Bessey-BPC-H12-2-Inch-Style-Clamps/dp/B0012YOC0W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1520457164&sr=8-2&keywords=bessey+pipe+clamp&dpID=4124AZGEqwL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

My beds are the same size as yours. I mounted PVC pipes on the sides of the beds. Then I found these on Amazon, they are fantastic!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050B0N06/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I thought they were a bit long so I cut them in half.

Thanks for the heads up! Grabbed 4!

Also not bad:
Bessey BPC-H12 1/2-Inch H Style Pipe Clam https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012YOC0W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rknNybZJP73WT

I will second the Yost 750 DI. I have a Wilton columbian that looks the same. the pipe jaws on the bottom have come in very useful on multiple occasions.

Sweet, thank you. I don't recall ever hearing about the Naked Woodworker. I will look into it. Guess I have to start stalking ebay and CL now.

One last question: I am going to have to completely alter my workbench situation (my current bench is a built-in, so I cannot take it with me). Given my new size restrictions I have been considering getting one of these to clamp to a dining table or countertop to save space. Given the relative small size of pieces I will be working on, do you think this would be problematic - would I regret this? The only alternative I can think of is building a new work bench that would have to live outside, exposed to the elements 24/7 (and be quite small itself).

This expensive one has a T-REX on the side

I dunno, man. I am at the 'a vise does what a vise does unless it doesn't' opinion until I find out otherwise.

Here's a neat one:

$25 Yost vise

$400 Yost vise

Same company put their name on both products.

Looks like

Irwin 226361 Woodworker's Vise, 6 1/2 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001LQY4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7boLzbMF6F5DD

I'm a big fan of this method. Was one of my first projects I did using chisels, I'm a newbie too. Made one of these with 1" pine, 4" harbor freight vise, and $20 Irwin wood vise. I have found I use the wood vise a lot more than the machinist vise. Even non wood things.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001LQY4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hHNKBb6VMB03B

And then when that still doesn't work and you're done fucking around, use a pair of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Quick-Grip-Clamp-Set/dp/B00A9KMARW

Make sure they're the kind with rubber pads, of course.

Would you mind posting a few pictures of how you did the legs? I have my top section, but stalled out. I also have a couple gramercy holdfasts, this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00012XCCA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and this https://www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-large-front-vise?gclid=CjwKCAjw2cTmBRAVEiwA8YMgzUrHg_vrJ8InPWmbNdVrg9n7lkZsTZ260sqDdXlSAcRanx2tvES_2hoCRg8QAvD_BwE but no good plan on how I'm going to configure them.

I bought this vise because it's low profile. I attached some scrap 1x4 to it as jaws and it works great. It's no plumber's pipe vise but it hasn't let me down yet.

It's this one

This is the one I just got: Kreg KHC-PREMIUM Face Clamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DC9UR8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gdhyybFJRV3XS

Here ya go.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0001LQY4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mYVEDbBH59YEM

And

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B078X8F1G8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_d0VEDbM0ZQEE9

Here is the desktop version of your link

That should work but if it doesn't you can use different sized standoffs to achieve an angled camera. If you do not have standoffs spare I purchased this and it comes with M3 and M2 with a bunch of different lengths.

I used 1/8 by 2 in aluminum stock with stainless screws. The screw I got on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00012XCCA/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1473043332&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=press+screw&dpPl=1&dpID=31xL2j6BDiL&ref=plSrch

I have one but probably not hf, its black and yellow plastic style with classic screw. When I tigthen it it bow to a point were I stop tighthening it in fear of breaking it. It still does a small clamping force and is light and fast, but I dont find much use because of it because it's too weak. The metal ones are probably way better. If you want C style that can clamp and release fast, I would recommend the vise grip style C clamp like this kind https://www.amazon.ca/Kreg-KHC-PREMIUM-Face-Clamp/dp/B001DC9UR8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491272425&sr=8-1&keywords=Kreg+clamp