(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best extension cords

Awe hugs Just think about your Lush bath! What product from Lush do you use for bath time? I've only used a few of their products before, but they were stellar!

If it makes you feel any better, I am still using (& still adore!) the cross stitch book mark that you made me for a contest a while back :) I get so many compliments on it!

Hmm, let's see. This long charging cable would be awesome because mine recently broke (somehow, I will find the culprit!). This doge dishwater magnet would be PERFECT because my roommate and I have ongoing doge jokes, and her birthday is coming up so I'd love to surprise her with it! And this power extension chord would be extremely helpful because my laptop chord is ridiculously short, and I recently had to remove my laptop's battery because it was overheating, so I have to keep it plugged in at all times. & this bracelet because it's pretty badass!

Total = $19.04

Thanks for hosting <3 I hope you feel better sweetie.

Edit: to add total price.

> Speaking as an electrician

Thanks very much! That is good to hear coming from a professional. I was proud of my little workaround hack, but I have never read about it anywhere else so I wondered if I was missing something important... but it really does work (I've used it during a couple of outages now). One useful thing to do is to use a little label maker to label the relevant outlets inside the house with "GENERATOR", just to make clear that they aren't usually going to be working. It's also good to make sure that whatever extension cords you get for coming from the generator to the house inlets has a round end for where it's going into the inlet. Some extension cords have the additional tab sticking up which makes it hard or impossible to fit into the inlet socket. Kind of hard to describe, but you'd know exactly what I mean if you see the inlet. Unfortunately the ones I got don't seem to be available any more on Amazon, the product page has gone away, but they looked a lot like these:

https://www.amazon.com/ParkPower-Marinco-150BBI-RV-Charger-125-Volt/dp/B000NV0V8C/

And the extension cords for generator to inlet are these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IAXSW/

Notice the female end of the extension cord is round, so it'll fit inside the inlet socket. I think I have the 100 foot and another 50 foot of the 10 ga, for getting from the generator on the rear deck to the two different inlets on the house. The garage one is a bit further away, toward the front of the house, so I need the 100' for that. Usually I'd try not to run so long, but when running the generator in an emergency I'd much prefer for it to be hidden in the rear of the house, not visible to the road. Being 10 ga gives me a bit more room to play with 100' length without losing too much power to the cord.

Other than those, it's a pretty standard job that anybody who's a little bit handy can do - you might also need a 1 7/8" hole saw for the inlet, assuming you have wood walls (we have cedar siding). I used something like 10 or 12 ga house wiring between the wall - I think it might be 10 ga since I remember hemming and hawing on which to use, I believe I went heavier just to be on the safe side. It's a bit intimidating for a non-professional to work with wiring stuff up, but since it's not connected to the actual house wiring, that takes some of the fear out. Just have to make sure you get all the right wires in the right places (not too difficult) and tighten everything up. Also a little bit stressful hacking holes in your exterior house wall, but once it's all sealed up again it's pretty cool knowing you can now get power inside without having to leave the window or door open.

I also have a Kryptonite Stronghold anchor in the back yard next to the deck, for chaining the generators up while they are running, so nobody can just pick them up and run off (a downside of having portable generators is that they are, well, portable):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LF903M/

I dug a hole and then filled it with high stress concrete, then left it to dry for a week or two, then drilled the holes for the bolts and installed the anchor. For chain, I used the strongest stuff I could find at Home Depot. The padlock likewise - just the most beefy, secure one I could find. On the generators themselves, I have installed the security addition to the handle:

https://www.amazon.com/Honda-63230-Z07-010AH-EU2000i-Generator-Deterrent/dp/B004DQY6B6/

This doesn't make it 100% secure, but it's better than just having the plastic handle which is easily broken. Security is a matter of layers - you don't depend on anything being 100%, but you hope that everything will serve to either deter or else slow the thieves down enough so that either they don't try, or else you will be alerted in time to stop them.

Finally, I have a couple of failed circuit alarms, which go off when power is lost:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0077Q9NC6/

I figure these could be on the extension bar inside the house while the generator is in use, then if it goes off or is being stolen then I will get an alert when they unplug the extension cord. I am using one of these alarms in the garage now, for the chest freezer so I'll know if that circuit trips out for whatever reason (avoid thawed out freezer, never fun).

Anyway, hope that helps anyone else who might be thinking about a similar setup - the Honda EU2000i is a great little generator (I also have the Companion), and with a little forethought you can make it much easier to use in your house in emergencies. Oh, and one last thing - I also have a large folding plastic table, which can be used to put over the generator if it's raining outside when you need to use it. Obviously the generator can't be too near the house, because of risk of carbon monoxide, so being outside puts the generator at risk of exposure to the elements. One of those folding tables, you can get from any department store, is useful for putting the generator under something. If the rain is especially heavy, I can put an additional tarp over the table, which can also cover two sides, and a couple of cinder blocks makes it ok in the wind.

Incidentally, this is a good battery powered CO detector, great for emergencies if you need to run a Buddy heater inside the house, or make sure the generator exhaust isn't blowing inside:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Y6V5CI/

Hey buddy. I did my own build very similar to this earlier in the year.

http://pedalboardshop.com/ is going to be your new best friend.

Things you need:
Wood (duh)

2 solderless 1/4" jacks

1 AC inlet

1 indoor extension cord

1 outdoor/shop extension cord

1 Power Supply (I use a Voodoo Labs PP+2 as well - they're amazing)



After you build the wooden parts of the board and you're ready to wire it will be incredibly easy. Seriously, if I can do it you can.

1: Route the holes where your jacks and inlet will go. I did all the same side, and although you can change your In/Out as much as you like, I stick with input being the jack closer to me and output being the one farther OUT from me (just so I remember without the ugly labels).

2: The AC inlet I linked to is solderless. That's awesome. You're going to need to cut the extension cord and then take the appropriate wires and screw clamp them into the inlet. Make sure you match the +/-/ground correctly. Some extension cords don't have color-coded ground wires. If this happens it's the wire with the groove running down the side of it.

3: After you've wired up your extension cable to the inlet you can mount it onto your board. The rest of the build is as simple as arranging the (I assume) under-board placement of your power supply. I have the PP+2 plugged into the extension cord, and I use the additional open outlet to run some sound activated LED tape under my board.

Making your own build is truly rewarding, and man is it nice to cut so much set up time out of your routine. It's a blessing to show up to a gig, set your board down, and plug in three cables.

I do recommend using industrial strength velcro or locking velcro for your build. I also threw a Fender amp handle on mine for reliable portage. I initially put handles on the surface like Blackbird does, but I removed them after I got into pedal building and needed the extra real estate. Handle placement there is also really only useful for picking it up from a flat state to move it to another spot nearby. Actually carrying it from the van to the stage, etc. is totally awkward with handles on top.

Build post

Shitty quality video clip of it in action

Best of luck to you on your build, /u/TheStrangeGhost/ . If you need any help feel free to PM me.

I believe the Sunjoe also has a bit stronger motor.

One thing I STRONGLY recommend when getting this is to also pick up a 100ft 12 Awg (gauge) extension cord, and a GFCI-connector for it to plug into your house.

The GFI is there so that if you accidently hit the extension cord with the unit, you'll be protected by the GFI.

The reason for the heavier duty extension cord, is two fold: 1.) Sunjoe requires 12awg for 100ft runs. The second, if you ignore this, the motor will overheat and you will reduce the life span of the unit.

Recommended GFCI

US Wire and Cable 74100 Extension Cord 12awg, 100ft Yellow I bought this one.

Southwire 100 ft Yellow Extension cord 12awg This one is cheaper, but I can't find much information on it as far as the shielding goes.

I also bought their extension cord spooler for like 5 dollars or something crazy cheap, and it's... well it's super cheap, but hey it holds the extension cable just fine.

Sure you can get a 12awg extension cord with the GFCI built into it, and save some money, but I like having them separate, and that way I can make sure that the GFCI portion is up against the house and not in the yard, since it doesn't do you any good if you hit the cable behind the GFCI.

I got a Dryer Buddy Plus Auto from here, which plugs into the dryer outlet and splits it, with a sensor to automatically shut of current to the EV port whenever the dryer starts. I/my wife are occasionally absent minded, so having an automatic switch-off seemed well worth the extra expense.

I also go this beefy 25' extension cord, to run from the Dryer Buddy to the garage, and this Zencar 240v/16A charger. (I originally started with a hack that turns the EOM charger into a level 2 charger, but I wanted to be able to keep that guy in the car, and the Zencar is a little faster and has a slightly longer cable (important cuz I actually park outside the garage).

Biggest issue was running the extension cord. The head is a beast, and the cable quite thick. We had to cut a hole in the basement stairs, and cut a small notch out of the door to the garage. It's all sealed up tight now, though, and everything works beautifully. Been using it for ~8 months now, I think.

Sounds like you're handier than I am, so if you're comfortable doing the wiring and confident about the ratings of the pieces involved, then... yeah, should work.

I was also maxing-out the length of the provided USB-C cable for the placement of the dock. Instead I opted to extend the length of the wall-socket with an indoor extension cord.

I'm in the US, so I grabbed this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0153T1NF8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't know much about electrical wiring, so I tried to find an indoor-rated, high-gauge extension cord. A bit on the expensive side, but it's a two-pack and I've already found a good use for the second one. I've had zero problems so far.

There's a couple ways of going about extending the distance of the Switch dock, from the wall or from the power brick, and I'm glad to see your USB-C extension solution worked! Cheers dude! :)

Individual conductors with no protection or insulation.

Using a outlet box with no apparent sign of strain relief.

220v plug with no apparent sign of strain relief.

Given that you are using a outlet box I assume you mean to permanently install this? This is not recommended... A NEMA 5-15 outlet providing 220v is not something that should be permanently mounted, because then it would look like any standard 120v outlet. Someone could easily plug a 120v device into it.

​

Something like this: http://www.kawal.net/volt%20adapter.htm is considerably safer and the way it should be done.

Even better, a pre-made 6-50 adapter cord can be had here!: https://www.amazon.com/ALEKO-WAC105015-Welder-Adapter-Female/dp/B01LQZZPUC

Definitely straight into the wall, but if you're like me and the standard plug won't fit, you can chop off the original plug and splice it into something like this. Or just plug it into something like that, but it wasn't clean enough for my tastes.

We have both, and I would recommend the Hitachi Magic Wand. It's intimidating at first, but then it quickly becomes the greatest thing ever invented. I would suggest getting a lamp cord dimmer switch for it (I used this cord connected to this lamp dimmer and it's served me VERY well). It lets you have a better level of control over the power level of the wand.

You've done an excellent job with wiring, but can I make a suggestion? Use a flat rotating head extension cord for that plug under your desk. You can get rid of the hanging look and have a cable go straight up the back wall instead of what it's doing now.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Extension-Cord-Flat-Rotating-Plug/dp/B008I5SHKE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521920155&sr=8-3&keywords=flat+rotating+plug&dpID=21cZWNTVyjL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Weatherproof or not: make sure this is plugged in to a GFCI protected outlet. You can get a plug in GFCI device if your outlet is not already a GFCI.

Here's one on amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Woods-Yellow-Jacket-2879-Lighted/dp/B000HEKUJA/ref=sr_1_45?keywords=gfci+outdoor&qid=1575140003&sr=8-45

Here's a Home Depot item:

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/ultracontact-gfci-cord-inline-triple-tap-12-3-with-manual-reset/1001352703

I'm almost certain that Home Depot has an in-store product like the above link but it's more like $30 than $55.

Be careful with extension cords. Length and small gauge can cause significant voltage drop under load. Better to carry three 30 footers than one 100 footer and use only what is needed lengthwise.

My 3 would not even start charging from my 120V outlet in my detached garage. The only reason I can think of was the 100 ft of 14 gauge wire that was supplying electricity to it.

10 AWG like this should be OK for constant high load.

https://www.amazon.com/ProStar-Gauge-Conductor-Extension-Lighted/dp/B072KT83QJ/

Suggestion? The wiring is excellent, but if you want to go the next level of neatness, I strongly recommend grabbing a flat-rotating extension plug for your lamps. Rather than the core sticking outward, and then curving back down under the baseboard, you can have it just shoot straight down.

This is what I'm talking about:

https://www.amazon.com/Nekteck-Listed-Extension-Degree-Rotating/dp/B071KSM5DQ/

To see a visual example, I have an outlet directly under my desk, but I hated that my large power strip (mounted underneath the back of my table top) had a really bulky black plug that had to plug outwards and then get awkwardly bent up. I solved it with a white-colored rotating flat plug:

https://i.imgur.com/UjF5BlX.jpg


Well done again! I am envious that your wall is painted dark gray; light strips/implicit lighting look much, much more interesting against a dark wall as opposed to a light one.

Totally, something like this would work out perfectly. https://smile.amazon.com/Nekteck-Listed-Extension-Degree-Rotating/dp/B071KSM5DQ/

Yepp I bought this one and it worked perfectly.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EJVZLNC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468098655&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=240v+cord&dpPl=1&dpID=41YV1MlAi4L&ref=plSrch

FYI, I had to wrap the AC's prongs with tinfoil because they weren't making contact with the device.

I personally use a ton of these around the house and in my rack. It's have to find good quality low profile wall warts. Just use these cables and keep the good power.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B013KO70CI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=15R2KJ16RWV73&coliid=ICDSA6DQLQE6N&psc=1

better yet use these

https://smile.amazon.com/ClearMax-Prong-Power-Splitter-Cable/dp/B01GSFFEOC/ref=zg_bs_495312_11

Checks Amazon again

Well, I bought the ones in the first link a while back, and those are ~$2.20/cable.

These ones, a third Amazon link, look like ~$1.30/cable.

Yeah, about that... Turns out there's a nest of unfriendly flying insects that I need to take care of to get a front-on shot of it. This is about as good as I can do for the moment.

Here's a side shot of the adapter:
https://imgur.com/a/joAimaC

Here's the cord cover I used:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004IPZ6WU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_T5eJBbXX36YTN

So something like this should be a safe bet?

https://www.amazon.com/ProStar-Gauge-Conductor-Extension-Lighted/dp/B072KT83QJ/

They may look thick and ugly, but a big rugged extension cord is best IMO:

http://www.amazon.com/Coleman-Cable-Outdoor-Extension-50-Feet/dp/B000K2S9FQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1408747248&sr=8-2&keywords=extension+cord

Edit: You probably don't need 50 ft, but this is just an example of the type of cord I mean.

Hey, do you know what to buy the protect the end of the connected wires? I don't like how sometimes i step on it or how it got disconnected. I just ordered this...i don't know if its any good:

http://www.amazon.com/Hot-Headz-Extension-Safety-Resistant/dp/B0027IOB76?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Amazon canada but

Hot Headz Extension Cord Safety Seal Water Resistant Cord Cover, 8.25 x 3 x 3-Inch, Orange https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0027IOB76/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_e9nlDbT37YQPS

Assuming you have a 240V outlet in your shed, which should look something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5842-I-Receptacle-Commercial-Grounding/dp/B000U3BVMI

You would then just need a 240V cable to power the miner. Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EJVZLNC

Did you ever try one of these safety seals? I've always wondered how well they work.

That's why you get an extension cord that has the bonus of being able to attach other things to it at the same time!

https://www.amazon.com/SlimLine-2235-Extension-2-Wire-3-Foot/dp/B000HE8PEC/ref=lp_495312_1_7?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1523384540&sr=1-7&th=1

Ten bucks will get you either option delivered to your door, my friend.

http://www.amazon.com/FreeDancer-Conch-shaped-Simulation-Security-Camera/dp/B00MEGS2RG/ref=sr_1_5?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1409100165&sr=1-5

http://www.amazon.com/Coleman-Cable-Outdoor-Extension-50-Feet/dp/B000K2S9FQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1409100230&sr=1-1&keywords=extension+cord

\> Is there a way to tell if anything else is on that circuit?

I'm not an electrician, but I think you need to put an amp meter on the circuit near your breaker. I think they make clamp on ones so you don't have to work with any bare wires.

\> I'm also concerned about fire hazard with extension cords

I promise the extension cord won't be an issue if you get a 12 gauge one and your breakers are functional. Just get something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/US-Wire-74025-25-Foot-Extension/dp/B002HWRS7W

Looks really nice, might I suggest for further tweaking, something along these lines?

https://www.amazon.com/Extension-Cord-Flat-Rotating-Plug/dp/B008I5SHKE/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1496500289&sr=8-16&keywords=Flat+Wall+Plug

Use a properly rated 12 gauge​ heavy duty extension cord and you should be fine, like this one.

FWIW, I had a similar set up and made it better with one of these:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SOYBTAE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is even better! Maybe even a bit overkill.
https://www.amazon.com/ClearMax-Prong-Power-Splitter-Cable/dp/B01GSFFEOC/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1482969493&sr=8-18&keywords=power+strip

Someone asked the same question above, so I just copied and paste the answer below. Also, consider getting a small extension cord, like one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105297-16AWG-Power-Extension/dp/B006VK7X1C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542440284&sr=8-3&keywords=short+extension+cord

https://www.amazon.com/Cablelera-Power-Extension-Splitter-ZWACPQAG-14/dp/B00FRODUR4/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1542440284&sr=8-9&keywords=short+extension+cord,


Product Height 2.5 inches

Product Width 1.4 inches

Product Depth 5 inches

Product Weight 0.35 pounds

Make your life easier.
Extension Cords

Can I plug in my HX Stomp into the courtesy outlet of a voodoo mondo? If so, will this extention cord work to connect the two? The orientation of the plug won't allow my board to lie flat.

P-A000146N - 6" Extension Cord with Flat Rotating Plug - Black

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UKKBAE0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kF.uCb6HZC90T

YouTube video link for pid assembly
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Ra6Dn9tq7ks


Pid links:

Controller inkbird 106vh
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Temperature-Thermostat-Controllers-Fahrenheit/dp/B01KNXETWS/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=inkbird+106vh&qid=1567355320&s=gateway&sr=8-4

(4pc) 2-2packs
https://www.amazon.com/YXQ-Cartridge-Electric-Heating-Fittings/dp/B06XWB86GF/ref=pd_aw_fbt_328_img_2/133-1641262-1548304?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B06XWB86GF&pd_rd_r=735bc2a1-e25f-4088-a7ad-d7e433f94b0a&pd_rd_w=BRXp5&pd_rd_wg=AjA5r&pf_rd_p=3ecc74bd-d08f-44bd-96f3-d0c2b89f563a&pf_rd_r=F7X5VADH85ZGY8GWENXA&psc=1&refRID=F7X5VADH85ZGY8GWENXA

(1per controller) if you want two controllers you need 2 cables https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-Heavy-Extension/dp/B0153T1NF8/ref=pd_aw_fbt_60_img_3/133-1641262-1548304?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0153T1LSM&pd_rd_r=3977bf62-6ee0-490f-8e51-e018d34cce3e&pd_rd_w=XfsUB&pd_rd_wg=HoWmy&pf_rd_p=3ecc74bd-d08f-44bd-96f3-d0c2b89f563a&pf_rd_r=08T228RMHA18JN1FP6HJ&psc=1&refRID=08T228RMHA18JN1FP6HJ&th=1

(1per controller) box for controller
https://www.amazon.com/BUD-Industries-CU-3283-Plastic-Utility/dp/B005T5A0W4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=bud+industries+project+box&qid=1567355758&s=gateway&sprefix=bud+industries+p&sr=8-2

you can also use one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Headz-Extension-Safety-Resistant/dp/B004IPZ6WU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539528666&sr=8-3&keywords=Hot+Headz+Extension+Cord

Ive been using this since the IQ was out have not had a problem.

I bought a GFCI cord for mine off Amazon. Is GFCI at point where it connects to the outlet.

Edit: This one.. Woods Jacket 2879 14/3 SJTW Right Angle GFCI with Lighted End, 6-Feet, Yellow https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000HEKUJA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_x7u3CbRR2J18T

no they dont but you have to get good quality lines.

on a side note i got a pack of these and they are a life saver. lets me use all the plug ins on my UPS and surge protectors without having to play plug tetris with weird shaped or sideways angled stuff.

Glad she’s ok. The bent cable is surely from her reflex reaction which would have been a fast jerk away.

You need to get one of these for future gigs: https://www.amazon.com/Lighted-Outdoor-Extension-Electrical-Outlets/dp/B073ZMLZGW

That building should have had GFCI protection already on exterior outlets, which would have disconnected power as soon as a ground fault was detected preventing the shock.
If you use the GFCI cord I listed above, plug it into the wall power outlet then plug your amps, mixer, etc. into the GFCI.

I'm gonna let you into a little [secret] (https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105297-16AWG-Power-Extension/dp/B006VK7X1C/ref=sr_1_48?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1521944309&sr=1-48&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A7065059011%2Cp_36%3A1253528011)

How bout these? KMC Power Extension Cord 10-Pack, Outlet Saver, 16AWG 3 Prong,1-Foot Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075WC3LZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EjM1BbCKZEK0B

You need this.

P-A000146N - 6" Extension Cord with Flat Rotating Plug - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UKKBAE0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1oAFDbD6DDG81

One of these, perhaps?:

https://www.amazon.com/P-A000146N-Extension-Cord-Flat-Rotating/dp/B00UKKBAE0

I bought this one: ALEKO WAC105015 Heavy Duty Welder Adapter Cord 12 Inch STW 10/3 RV Adapter 50A Male to 15A Female https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LQZZPUC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NmJhAbG746VJM

More organizations needs to start looking at wall jacks like this. Instead of the RJ45 connection pictured, it should be a biscuit instead. Of course, there are other alternatives.

I'm not sure what the question is, but if you're saying you can't use an extension cord because it will protrude too much, try one of these - or look for something similar:

https://www.amazon.com/Extension-Cord-Flat-Rotating-Plug/dp/B008I5SHKE/ref=pd_sim_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B008I5SHKE&pd_rd_r=CFXMCG0ZBY399FK5KCR9&pd_rd_w=V4AQo&pd_rd_wg=ZhuWK&psc=1&refRID=CFXMCG0ZBY399FK5KCR9

42 miles on a Gen2 is roughly 75% of the battery range, and a full charge on L1 takes ~11-12 hours at 12A. So, if you're actually able to charge at 12A (meaning there are no other loads on the same circuit) you may be able to recharge fully over an 8hr day. If, and this is more likely, you have to drop down to 8A, you won't get a full charge, but you'll probably get enough to get back home no problem.

The factory EVSE is totally fine in the rain, you don't need to search for another waterproof one or worry about covering it up. Just don't leave it sitting in a puddle. J1772 extensions are expensive, you're better off getting a 12- or 10-gauge extension cord and protecting the 120V plug from water using something like this.