(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best flooring supplies

In the Barefoot Running Step by Step book, Barefoot Ken Bob talks about a friend who uses Plasti Dip to coat the bottom of his socks. Plasti Dip is just liquid rubber so once it dries the socks will have a light layer of protection/padding on the bottom.

Apparently these allow for a more barefoot-like feel of the road as compared to VFF or Minimal shoes and they allow you to run in the winter while still being as close to barefoot as possible. The best part is you choose the socks that fit you best or that you want to use (can even use toe socks). The book suggests wearing the socks when you coat them (use a foam paint brush) which means hanging out in a well ventilated area for 45 min. or so.

For less than $10 you can get a jar of Plasti Dip and a pair of socks, and the jar will last for multiple pairs of socks. Sounds like a good deal to me, I've been thinking about trying it.

EDIT I missed the part where you can't wear the VFFs at work and are looking for a replacement. The rubber coated socks probably aren't a good solution for your problem.

Sounds like a decently large space. I'd start by putting these teak tiles down to make it seem more like a deck- tiles

Then make yourself a cool plant wall. Get some pots and soil and herbs from a local place and grow stuff. Even if you don't have much sun there's options for some greenery.

Hang some cool outdoor lights like these: lights

Finally, give yourself some seating with either a cafe style table and chairs, a small outdoor couch, or a couple of outdoor rocking chairs with a small side table.

1. table option
   
   
2. sofa
   
   
3. rockers

Something like this.

Yeah Ive been looking into it and its very beautiful.

Those are the exact risers, Id have to build something under it to get it risen. To be frank, its probably last on my list. I love the none squeaky and low bed, also I always fear my kitten will get squashed!

My home gym is in a room in my basement that's about 19ft x 13 ft x 9ft high. It was originally carpeted, but I put in a rubber gym flooring (on top of cement) about 6 months ago. I like the look and stability, but it's made the room really echo-y, which is noticeable when I have the tv on in the background when I'm on the treadmill.

Has anyone run into this problem, and if so, did you manage to fix it? I'm thinking of putting this underlayment down under the rubber flooring, but I'm wondering if it will do much good under the rubber.

thanks for the help. 12mm seems to be on the larger side of what I can find. do you think a 3.2 mm rubber or 6 mm cork would work? any feel for what you'd prefer out of those, or if there is something that is better than those two options?

I ordered some 2x2 tiles for my basement and it was a snap. For the most part you're laying full tiles. Edge tiles need to be cut, sure, but most of them are straight cuts. There will be a handful that require more intricate cuts. I think dealing with the tiles was far easier than it would've been trying to negotiate putting down a giant roll.

I got these and loved them: http://www.amazon.com/Commercial-Carpet-Tile-Random-Assorted/dp/B001PF303I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409164883&sr=8-1&keywords=commercial+carpet+tiles

I bought some heavy duty floor mats, like they have in gyms. The have edges that fit together. I drop anywhere from 1 or 2 to 4 or 5 down and have a soft, dry, clean spot to work.

Kind of like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Ergocell-Rubber-Horse-Stall-Mat/dp/B07RQVQQ3B/

With perception of sound...it's really tricky...as it is difficult to understand how sensitive of a ear your neighbor has (or the acoustics of her home)

Would you be willing to ask her help to find a way to make things better for her?

Some possibilities:

• Buy earplugs in bulk, and go around to the other apartments in your building to ask if they have sound issues (even if not from you ---- you can offer them a jar of disposable earplugs...and refill if necessary)
  
• Ask the neighbor who is most affected by the sound from your home to let you know if laying carpet tile would make a difference.
  
• Check with your neighbor regarding party plans --- maybe even invite your neighbor (and build the party according to her likes/dislikes)
  
  Btw...is your neighbor in her 30's or in her 70's?

Maybe these? These aren't as thick but they're available to ship from Amazon. Multiple cut sizes available too.

Rubber Cal Elephant Bark Floor Mat, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LT4LNS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_HKrCub1SPPV8B

Post was edited to a better priced mat with free shipping...

It's 3mm thick unsealed sheets that I used. Amazon don't stock the ones I bought, but it was something along these lines:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/NATURAL-TILES-FLOOR-300x300mm-thick/dp/B00FPKV2WK/

Slightly thicker, but should do the same. Oh, and it's worth keeping an eye out for a fine grain of cork as that makes it much easier to shape.

Yes, you can put poly before stain if you prep the poly properly.

• sand the wood to 150G evenly
  
• apply a thin coat of poly
  
• sand to 220G evenly
  
• apply stain
  
  you need to apply more coats of stain than on bare wood, don't rush, make sure the previous coats of stain are dry (or use water based Saman stains, very nice and easy to apply by wiping on)
  

I think it's a console sink. Haven't seen any quite like that except in old interior design books, but maybe something like this would feel similar?

And something like these [peel-n-stick tiles] (http://www.amazon.com/Armstrong-Afton-Self-Stick-Diamond-Flooring/dp/B001DKNUSU) might also give a similar effect, albeit without the decorative edge.

Agreed, you can get 1 inch tiles pretty easy too:

https://www.amazon.com/Daltile-Hexagon-White-Porcelain-Mosaic/dp/B00A3CDTW6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=1+inch+hexagon+tile&qid=1567650109&s=gateway&sprefix=1inch+hexagon+tile&sr=8-3

If UV exposure is going to be an issue, Marine Goop is probably your best bet.

Otherwise, the original/all purpose Goop is actually a better formula (higher tensile strength), costs nearly half as much, and can be found in most big box stores.

I’ve tried 5 or 6 different products to clean the grout in our house and Aqua Mix Professional Grout Deep Clean is the best by far.

Actually, they seem to be about 1/3 the cost of a proboard, which is considerably better. Are they flexible enough to roll up easily?

You can do it two ways. The most secure way is to install a J channel onto the concrete so you can slide the mirror in. You will need a masonry drill bit and anchors. Easiest and cheapest way is to use a Mirror adhesive like liquid nails be sure to check the weight limits.

http://www.lumberliquidators.com/ll/s/luxury-vinyl-plank

This stuff? Looks like they are still selling 2mm, 3mm, and 5mm versions.

http://www.lumberliquidators.com/ll/c/Kane-County-Oak-LVP-Tranquility-2KC-KC/10039546

^ link to 2mm version

Looks like Amazon sells these too, when in stock:

https://www.amazon.com/Tranquility-County-Resilient-Vinyl-Flooring/dp/B009Q6EWC6/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_pb_opt?ie=UTF8

Just peel and stick! Tip: Subfloor surface must be clean- smooth- and level.

^^ says Amazon

So you still might be able to get 3mm, maybe.

But I doubt you would want it, given the failure of the product.

I would guess that if the flooring gods were with you and the floor was nice and flat and the surface of a good material to which the planking' adhesive would bond well to, that this product could work as a decent flooring material. In the real world though, I would not use it...too many opportunities for failure.

I think that the fault is more on the installer than Lumber Liq. myself. The subflooring has to be flat and clean; I don't see how this would be possible w/o either pouring self leveling concrete or putting down a new plywood subfloor (plywood being 1 side pre-sanded variety) prior to install.

And plywood? Usually takes well over a month to get nice and flat...sitting in the place where its to be installed...for this application.

I know with my plywood I got, most were flat after a week but some sheets took 3 mos to get flat (I did not play the water this side-water that side game...I just let them sit against a wall so that they could breath). ..I ordered all boards at once (50 of 'em--4 ended up being extra, so pretty good estimating there) once I figured out after ripping out some carpeted areas that a new subfloor would be needed...so it did not delay my project timeline).

My advice? Tear up the vinyl, put in 3/4 hardwood or quality engr. wood (that I refuse to buy) to replace.

Want $$$ from 1st install - sue installer.

When I see "just peel and stick" .. I shudder.

Yes, I should be able to do it as a floating floor. I was hoping to. Here's a pic of where the floor meets my kitchen. Here's another from my front door to the wall. There is no difference in height. In the second picture... where the back of the couch lays is where the crawlspace begins... give or take a foot.

Is there any specific brand of underlayment that is better than another? they all seem to be about the same. The one that I was contemplating ordering was Robert's Blackjack.

Whizzy Wheel Car Decal and Sticker Remover with Drill Adapter Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FJF0O2K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9JqmDbXMBJMVK

I've had really good luck with these. You can get much more aggressive without damaging the finish.

Whizzy Wheel Car Decal and Sticker Remover with Drill Adapter Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FJF0O2K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sTNmDbM3E6BNS

This made the job on mine SO much easier.

I used these to remove hundreds of square feet of decals off my 5th wheel, they are amazing and I wish I found them sooner. Doesn’t hurt the finish at all.

Whizzy Wheel

My vinyl guy gave me one of these: https://smile.amazon.com/Whizzy-Wheel-Sticker-Remover-Adapter/dp/B00FJF0O2K to remove my decals, but mine were older. Also, these: https://smile.amazon.com/Ehdis-Visibility-Plastic-Scraping-Windshields/dp/B01HLWB0BM for scraping. Acetone and/or alcohol to remove any residue. This will also remove wax, so re-wax when you're done.

If you do have a shadow, try Hops143 polishing, but I think I'd skip the Heavy Duty compound. Try a small area with just the Finesse-It first, and see if that's satisfactory. You don't want to create more work for yourself, and it doesn't look oxidized. Here's more than you ever needed to know about compound/polish/wax - https://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/52772-tips-compound-polish-wax.html

https://www.amazon.com/Wheel-Pinstriping-Removing-Diameter-Whizzy/dp/B00FJF0O2K

those will do the trick, just need to be careful so you dont burn the paint

Haven’t tried it, but saw this

Whizzy Wheel Car Decal and Sticker Remover with Drill Adapter Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FJF0O2K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WMXjDbNQSV8ZH

https://www.amazon.com/Whizzy-Wheel-Decal-Remover-Adapter/dp/B00FJF0O2K

wonder if this would do the trick http://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Dip-Intl-18201-Plasti-Dip/dp/B000HE9VV8

Ive used one a few times:

(https://www.amazon.com/Whizzy-Wheel-Sticker-Remover-Adapter/dp/B00FJF0O2K/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?keywords=3m+eraser+wheel&pd_rd_r=0a9f7541-1a45-45ff-b163-c6cfab173a0e&pd_rd_w=dQLT6&pd_rd_wg=DYqgw&pf_rd_p=7be70e42-b5c0-4077-873a-35a472a6fbd4&pf_rd_r=TN1R5CFFCVTP7YSH9NFG&qid=1569271761&s=gateway&sr=8-3-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzUEs2R1pMWkdYQ1o1JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjM0MTAxMkpLN1hVUFcyTlQxSSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODk5MDg0TkZNTzVXR0RSSVhFJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==)

They make a big mess (imagine using a pencil eraser x 1000), but get they job done. They mark up the wall a little, but not enough you should have to patch it.

Color match can be a bitch of a job (and pricey to get it done right unless OP can get a deal on a vinyl wrap), if they threw chrome centre caps on and blacked out the lighting it could work well with the chrome since he has the gloss black wheels.

The chrome/white lighting just never looked right on anything but the white and silver trucks imho.

Debadge +1! Get some fishing line with a blow dryer to remove them, then power polish. I used this thingy to get any glue residue off: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00FJF0O2K/

I took my time gathering a the parts etc. Painting was a pain and not really my forte. The decals were under a previous paint job so I used this

Car Decal Removal Tool - Whizzy... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00FJF0O2K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
to strip the bike.
Worked awesome but made one hell of a mess. So I sanded and painted over a few weekends (at my GF's house) since I don't have the space for that in my suite. Took a few weeks to build everything back on the bike and add the electrical system (wire management OMG)
Pretty much everything was done in a 5'x8' storage space within my suite that I converted into a "garage" to maintain my bikes. Somehow I make it work, lol.

Assuming this is vinyl, I use one of these for decal removal at work. I then use this product for any cleanup. With those, i can strip off commercial truck door signage in just a few minutes with no paint damage.