Reddit mentions: The best fuel transfer & lubrication products

I just built exactly what you're describing. I can share some of my experiences.

• Torquing things:
  
  
  • An AR-15 armourer's wrench is a dedicated device for AR-15 assembly and will be needed to attach the barrel, buffer tube, and flash hider. I initially got a super cheap one that couldn't take the torque and the tool's teeth snapped off while stripping a few of my barrel nut's teeth. I now use a TAPCO-brand model and it's very well made.
    
    
  • A torque wrench ensures you are tightening the barrel, flash hider, and castle nut to the correct minimum amounts using an objective indicator of applied torque. The minimum values are in the 25-35 ft.-lb range, so get a wrench that can exceed this by a healthy margin.
    
    
  • You need a vise to hold your upper and lower receiver at the individual stages where you're attaching parts, especially anything that needs to be tightened to a specified torque level. C-clamps and speed clamps are also helpful here.
    
    
  • A pair of plastic blocks clamp your upper receiver tightly to your vise. A block of magazine-shaped plastic goes into your magwell to hold your lower receiver in place on your vise. Get a combo pack of both.
    
    
  • Molybdenum-based anti-seize (greasing) compound is necessary when attaching your barrel to your receiver. It makes things easier when torquing the barrel nut and prevents the barrel from chemically bonding to the receiver. I made the mistake of attaching the barrel without it, had great difficulty tightening the nut, found that I couldn't align the gas tube properly, and then couldn't remove the nut again. Had to toss the thing into a freezer overnight to allow thermal contraction to separate the parts.
    
    
• Pushing in roll pins:
  
  
  • You want a mallet with a non-marring head for driving in roll pins without damaging your weapon's finish.
    
    
  • A roll pin starter set will save you so much trouble getting the pins aligned for the first few hammer hits. Buy it.
    
    
  • For most of my roll pins, I used a roll punch set instead of a standard punch set to drive in the pins. Roll pins are hollow and a roll punch has a small indentation that fits inside the hollow area which makes driving the pins much easier.
    
    
  • A standard punch set came in handy to keep high-tension parts aligned while I punched in roll pins from the other side.
    
    
  • A bench block is useful in holding your parts in place while hammering in roll pins, but it's not needed if you have a friend to provide spare hands at some stages of assembly. I started off using it, but a roommate's hands plus a roll of tape (to rest the work piece on) worked just as well.
    
    
• Specialty / miscellaneous
  
  
  • If you're installing a handguard that uses the standard delta ring, you will want snap ring pliers to manipulate the snap ring part of the delta ring assembly. I initially tried using improved tools. Save yourself the cursing and just get the pliers.
    
    
  • I saw a video guide to installing the front pivot pin using a clevis pin. It looks like a good technique to use and would have saved me a lot of trouble.
    
    I'm super happy with the results of my build. The process is fraught with a lot of cursing and you're probably going to lose a couple of the tiny parts (like detent pins and tension springs) but the end result will be totally worth it. You'll be intimately familiar with the insides of your AR-15 and share a sentimental connection with your firearm thanks to its DIY nature. Enjoy!

Edit - Nice Safety Glasses are the first thing to get with a lathe!

It sort of depends on the types of things he wants to make, but a good starter set like this https://www.amazon.com/Turning-Turning-Hardwood-Handles-Ferrules/dp/B07TTFLDLB/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?keywords=wood+lathe+chisel+set&qid=1572720167&sr=8-3-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzMlA1NVQ4TkgzUFFMJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzQ1NDcwMjJIOVY5U0hERTlMRCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTYzNDM3MTI0R0tSU0hRVk9RMiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

or

https://www.amazon.com/Savannah-7173-Turning-Hardwood-Ferrules/dp/B004MM3MES/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=wood+lathe+chisel+set&qid=1572720167&sr=8-5

will keep him busy for awhile as he finds his style. The real key is to get him a good way to sharpen these chisels. I like to use a 4 sided block or individual plates like these;

https://www.amazon.com/Jewboer-Diamond-Sharpening-Polishing-Whetstone/dp/B0752Q7GQ3/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?crid=2LXHR48U1CLJS&keywords=4+sided+diamond+hone+block&qid=1572720305&sprefix=4+sided+diamond+%2Caps%2C229&sr=8-3-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFNMTBUWkE0MUhXNkcmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAwNDgwNTYzTVFQQVlZQjdEOTdNJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyMDUwNTEyQzFXSko5N1Y0Sk0md2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

or

https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Whetstone-6-Inch-Sharpening-Sharpener/dp/B07JVV7JD6/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2LXHR48U1CLJS&keywords=4+sided+diamond+hone+block&qid=1572720305&sprefix=4+sided+diamond+%2Caps%2C229&sr=8-6

Some people like to use a bench grinder for sharpening but in my experience it is a a bit easier to use the honing blocks and stones until you have an idea of what angles you like best. Im terrible about dropping my chisels so I use the 200 grit to fix up dings and generally touch up my chisels with a 400&600 grit stone once a week or every other.

The other often forgotten necessity is oil for the lathe & chisels.I use a light oil on my chisels, lathe accessories like chucks & tapers, the bearings & spindle, and anything else on the machine that spins. The brand I like and have seen in a few different shops is Zoom Spout Oiler https://www.amazon.com/Supco-CE441-Zoom-Spout-Oiler/dp/B00DM8JK2G/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3NI4QXDJATASP&keywords=zoom+spout+oiler&qid=1572720750&sprefix=zoom+spout%2Caps%2C225&sr=8-4

​

For the Lathe Ways & the body of the machine, everything that doesn't get Light oil I use Way Lube.https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-100772-Vactra-No-2-Way/dp/B07B7XZKVF/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=lathe+way+oil&qid=1572720930&sr=8-1

​

Squirt everything spinny down with light oil before and after you use the lathe and you wont have issues with dust & chips gunking everything up. Way lube can go on once a month or whenever you want a fresh shine.

​

You are such a nice girlfriend, He is going to be stoked!! Good luck!!

> I'm sure I'll have plenty more questions in the near future, but right now here's a couple.

NP hit me up as they come.

>Firstly, what are the appropriate applications for grease and oil? Is one more appropriate in different climates than the other? Would it be optimal to use a combination of both, applying each to different parts? I guess my main concern here is handling the extreme cold we get here in Minnesota (sometimes low as -35*F give or take).

So the only place grease should go is on the barrel nut and castle nut, if you intend to take them off again. For the barrel nut you will need a very specific grease so it doesn't seize, this is it.

For the rest, you just lube. There is some back and forth about dry lube in extreme particle environments, but you don't need to worry about that. There are a million lubes out there, all of which promise to be the next best thing. Most are snake oil. Slip 2000 is not, and I know for a fact their Slip 2000 EWL does work in -25f (cause I've used it personally, among other things). Here are all the proper points to put lube after cleaning. If you notice the rifle getting "sluggish" after a few hundred or thousand rounds (depends on ammo and conditions how long) just put a few more drops on the bolt lugs and bolt carrier rails, you can just drop it in from the ejection port while pulling the bolt back.

>edit: I'm wondering how this applies to pistols too as I have a p226. edit 2: And what about that EWL 30?

Same thing, I know Slip 2000 EWL works. I have not used EWL 30, nor would I in the cold as generally you want the lighter stuff for freezing temps. But you can always experiment with it and report back.


>Secondly, you mentioned a cleaning kit. Is this the one you were referring to? https://www.amazon.com/Real-Avid-223-5-56-Pack/dp/B011X9V70I


Correct, it is an excellent kit specifically for that AR. Comes with everything you'd ever need to fully clean one. I used and OTIS kit before the real avid, and a bunch of hodgepodge cleaning gear before that. The Real Avid just blows them away, and it is so small you can easily put it in a range bag or even large pocket.

Thanks for the post. As someone who is a new homeowner in FL and lived here through Matthew and Irma but not through mass devastation, this helps me understand what that looks like.

Your comments about tire repair struck me. I am planning on ordering this well-reviewed plugger. What air pump do you have?

In regards to cleanliness I keep some body wipes too, but for helping larger amounts of people I definitely see the value of the shower + soap.

For the gas can, check out this one - much safer than the plastic cans and I am very happy with the flexibility of the nozzle. I'll likely get a long funnel for it too, just in case.

Here's an inexpensive project that you're children can help you with and makes a great thank you that will be enjoyed by children for years to come:

Get a couple of these oil drip pans and some chalkboard paint. That's actually the whole project, paint them and hang them up. Boards are magnetic or of course can be used with chalk.

Be sure to talk to principal/director (a good idea anyway as there may be something specific but inexpensive they are looking for, it is very unlikely they will say, "No thanks, our school has everything we need.") as various local regulations can dictate what is allowed in the classroom including "homemade" items.

Also the board can be mounted outside and great with a bucket of sidewalk chalk, if you are mounting on a chain link fence you can decorate the back as well as it will be seen from the other side.

Hope this helps :)

edit:fixed link

I've faced this same problem recently. The new federally mandated gas cans are awful. Cumbersome and exhausting to use and easy to break. In search of a better solution I stumbled upon this.
http://www.gad.net/Blog/2012/11/22/one-mans-quest-for-gas-cans-that-dont-suck/

The takeaway from it is for 2.5 gallon you have to settle but no spill brand is the least awful.

However metal jerry cans are exempt. They are better made, being more durable and far more ergonomic. You can stack them and abuse them but they will certainly last for years. The only downsides is that they are expensive and often do not come with a spout. Amazon wants $80 each.
https://www.amazon.com/Wavian-USA-JC0020RVS-Authentic-System/dp/B011AJF0PE

My advice and request for you is to try ebay and report back. They often have similar looking metal gerry cans for a quarter the price. For example these were in the first three results:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4pc-5-Gallon-Jerry-Can-Fuel-Steel-Green-Military-NATO-Style-20L-Storage-Tank/271524543912
https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Gal-20L-NATO-Style-Jerry-Can-Gasoline-Fuel-Can-Metal-Tank-Emergency-Backup/201418006456?

If true it would be the best deal on a decent quality gas can, but I am unfamiliar with ebay and don't really trust it. So I'd love to hear back if anyone is willing to get one.

I haven't done much long trips, but if you have a few smaller gas cans like these: https://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Can-2300-Gas-Capacity/dp/B000QDHENM/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1483153569&sr=8-9&keywords=2.5+gallon+gas+can, you can set a few in your roof rack basket and run a strap through the handles to hold them in place. I haven't done this with my Xterra, and need to make sure my cans will fit in a way I like, but it's how I used to carry extra fuel in the roof rack of my Grand Cherokee.

Great idea I forgot these were even a thing, I'm pretty sure Dad has them in his garden. This one looks pretty cheap.

16 inches is pretty decent actually. That's split log size if I'm careful.

I'd do the maintenance routine just to be sure it's ready to roll. Details are in the owners manual. Basically, air compressor and blow out the power head. Light oil on the sheaves in the oil holes, any light oil like 3-in-1 will work but I like zoomspout because you can get down to the lower sheaves without having to take the headstock cover off. Graphite lube on all the controls and threaded components, paste wax on the way tubes, table, quill and any other unpainted parts.

It's not critical immediately, but you probably want to wire cup those bottom tubes at some point to get all the rust off and then paste wax to prevent future rusting.

I'd pick up a Penn State shopsmith adapter for the lathe, and then you can use any standard 1x8tpi lathe chuck. The barracuda 2 is a great kit that covers everything you need for small to mid-size turnings and is much more affordable than a nova or oneway chuck. Pick up a tailstock live center or two if you don't have one. While you are at penn state, pick up the shopsmith compatible pen mandrel if you want to try pen turning.

Shopsmith sells the jacob's chuck you need for the drill press. Used ones are a little cheaper on ebay. You might also want a tailstock drill chuck (or a cheaper one from harbor freight) for the lathe, especially if you fancy trying pen turning.

Make sure you have a power coupler or two, you need them for the bandsaw/jointer.

If you need any parts (bearings, belts, switches, etc) for your shopsmith, try Jacob's Repair Shop before you order from the mothership, he sources parts that are cheaper and higher quality than the stock ones.

You can get the hose separately. Grease gun fittings are standardized at 1/8 NPT.

I saw this at Sears last time I was there: https://www.sears.com/dewalt-dcgg5703-24-1-8-inch-npt-grease-gun/p-00916674000P

I got a cheap one at Advance Auto but I would not recommend it. It's starting to crack; I'll move up to the DeWalt one when this one goes. It is also like 10" -- too short in my opinion.

A quick google search tells me FlexZilla makes one too:https://www.amazon.com/Flexzilla-Grease-Hose-Spring-Guard/dp/B06WP9SQRK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537231339&sr=8-3 . I LOVE their air whip hoses, so that might be a good deal.

As an aside, while I was looking on Amazon I saw this: https://www.amazon.com/LockNLube-fittings-best-selling-Long-lasting-rebuildable/dp/B00H7LPKKU

If you use grease fittings frequently, it might be worth it. The cheap coupler that came on my hose gets grease EVERYWHERE.

Personally, I will not upgrade until my hose ruptures, but that's because as a hobbyist, I only use a grease gun a few times a year.

This is a metal lathe not a wood lathe, not that you can't turn a piece of wood or any other material on it, but you might be better asking r/Machinists or r/metalworking/ for details on that specific machine.

Those little funnels should have like a spring loaded ball bearing in the top to seal it? You need an oiler like this to lubricate it. The tip should depress the bearing and allow oil to enter.They make specific oils for lathes you can order from who knows where for $$$, I just get the heaviest gear out the auto store has, I hear chainsaw bar oil works as well. For the ways, carriage and various screws/adjustments points on you really just need something heavy and sticky. Kind of hard to inject grease in those fittings so heavy oil is what I use.

My personal favorite review: the Blitz 11849 Dispos-Oil. It's a jug for used oil. I quote the review below:

>I have always tried to save money. I buy the cheapest oil and filter for the family vehicles, and I always change it myself. However, I started experiencing the ill effects that all people must deal with from being a "home mechanic", the inevitable dead spots of grass in the backyard.
>
>After some time, the 40-50 qts a year being dumped into the backyard starts to take its toll. I noticed less wildlife, the well water was starting to have an icky taste, and I accidentally started the dirt on fire when my lawn mower hit a rock and made sparks.
>
>I had enough, and I wanted to start helping the environment.
>
>I purchased 24 blitz oil containers from amazon, and I could not be more happy. They are easy to bury, and look great in the ground.
>
>Now to my review of the product:
>
>It is sturdy and lightweight, something I look for in underground burial containers. It easily holds the rated 12 qts of oil, and doesn't appear to leak.
>
>Why not 5 stars?? My only complaint is the width of the product. If blitz would have made it slightly shorter, but also fatter, it would be much easier to put in the ground. I currently have to dig a 22" deep hole which seems kind of silly to me. I have also busted a cap when I was back filling around the container. Blitz should have thought ahead with this design and realized that shovel to cap contact would happen for most people.
>
>I do suggest this for the "tree huggers" and "greenies" out there, as it will make you feel like you're really doing something good for the earth.

For putting under the trays, you should be able to get a shallow plastic oil drip tray like this one at your local auto parts store. I used a setup like that for a couple of years before I built a sink. Super easy to clean up when you are done.

It uses two types of oil. One you mix directly with the gasoline to lubricate your cylinder( like a weed eater or chainsaw). And the other type is transmission oil, like a car and exactly like your CBR600 you put it in your transmission and you have a small oil filter as well.



When I had a YZ250 I would run "Rotella-T 15W-40 (non-synthetic)" in my transmission, and I would use "Lucas Oil Semi-Synthetic 2-Cycle Engine Oil" in my gasoline and I mixed it 38:1 sometimes 40:1.



edit: keep in mind that as a new two-stroke rider you really need to make sure you're mixing the oil in your gasoline correctly. I would go pick up a Two-stroke measuring cup and a nice 5gallon(18.9L) Gas can that won't spill while mixing.


http://www.amazon.com/Ratio-Premix-Mixing-2-Stroke-Measuring/dp/B0088PR5BQ


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AVQCCCW/ref=s9_simh_hm_b13uKb_d0_g263_i1

Yes, but only if it's a greasable type of ball joint.

This is where the ball joint is:
http://media.ed.edmunds-media.com/mini/cooper-countryman/2011/fe/2011_mini_cooper-countryman_det_fe_823124_600.jpg

The white arrow is where the actual 'ball' is, and the green arrow is just the dust boot.

Look all around the metal part where the white arrow is pointing. If you see one of these:
http://www.duraflexinternational.com/images/zerk.jpg

It's greaseable. Here's a size comparison to help you spot it: http://i898.photobucket.com/albums/ac186/BellePlaine/Volkswagen%20Forum/2012-08-20194923.jpg

IF it is greaseable, you'll want one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Lumax-LX-1152-Deluxe-Pistol-Grease/dp/B000MD4YKM/ref=zg_bs_15707871_1

Along with the right grease for your car. You can search forums and the internet to find out the type of grease or even if it's greaseable.

Here is a great video that shows you how and gives some extra information about greaseable joints:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bB2RiRKDQ9k

Yes, I agree. We currently have two different types of fuel containers, and they're both fantastic.

We have one of these which is fantastic for pouring. I don't know why all the stores have those garbage, stiff hoses that end up getting gas everywhere, but this thing is fantastic.

-

We also have one of these, which is more expensive, but oh man it is a fantastic piece of work.

That's flippin' brilliant! I will certainly give that a shot. Doing a little research in case anyone else finds this...

Bags, Burner, Boiler (looks like old eagle metal gas can) assorted flex hoses, clamps and tape and should be good to go.

It'll be far easier to fix and maintain a generator than it would be to do the same thing with a car. Cars are complex and have tens of thousands of parts whereas a generator is simple and can be easily fixed with cheap parts.

You'll spend $3k+ on a car and end up with extremely poor comparative fuel efficiency and costly maintenance while not even being able to power a fridge. In the end, you'll generate even less electricity than a simple $500 dedicated generator would. You gotta trust us all, you're in a car community. We're all telling you that cars make abysmally terrible electric generators.

If you get a generator that is powered by gas or diesel, get one of these and a filler hose. All you gotta do is fill up that thing like you'd fill up a car. Easy peasy

Eagle cans they are made in the USA since the 1800s and are pretty affordable. If you don't wanna order one, I have found them at ACE Hardware stores - hard to find them at big box places.

They also don't have the pesky safety mechanism that seem to create more spills than they prevent.

Eagle UI-50-FS Red Galvanized Steel Type I Gasoline Safety Can with Funnel, 5 gallon Capacity, 13.5" Height, 12.5" Diameter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nEqwxbCXVF69F

It's a more accurate way of measuring how much gas is in a tank.

Just taking an average 10L Jerry can off Amazon. Apparently, it weights 367g

If we weight the can with an unknown amount of gas in it, we can get the weight of the gasoline. Subtract the weight of the can, convert the weight to volume, and you have the amount of gas you have.

So, as an example:

We measure the canister with an unknown amount of gas to be 2.58kg

Subtract the 0.03kg from the canister to get 2.55kg

Convert weight to volume and we get 3.4L

While for a plastic Jerry can it's less useful, but it would be great for a steel canister. It's not super accurate, but it's better than picking it up and guessing.

I only buy those metal cans with the funnel attached (I think eagle makes them) they're expensive but save so much frustration.

Edit: these. actually not a bad price, the last time I bought one it was like $55

Thanks for the recommendations. Coleman's has 4 for $99 used which is pretty good.

Here are some links and reviews of No-Spill.

• Amazon 5 Gallon
  
• Amazon 2.5 Gallon
  
• Amazon 1.25 Gallon
  
• Home Depot 5 Gallon
  
• Home Depot 2.5 Gallon
  
• Home Depot 1.25 Gallon
  
  There are always some negative reviews, but like Is said I have the 1.25 and the can swells up in the heat as it truly is vapor leak proof for me. If I go with these I will get the flexible spout extension and the DOT approved cap.
  
  The cheapest I could find was around $27 shipped no tax.
  
  
  

I have one of these, I like it. Metal, 5 gallons, seals well, is easy to fill/pour. I got mine at Lowe's.

Eagle UI-50-FS Red Galvanized Steel Type I Gasoline Safety Can with Funnel, 5 gallon Capacity, 13.5" Height, 12.5" Diameter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JZWyDb6G82GAE

You used to be able to pour gasoline from a jerry can. But pouring gasoline is super dangerous, so new cans all come with dribbler spouts.

Now you can safely hunch over your lawnmower for 20 minutes, refilling the tank drip by drip.

EDIT: Wow! Y'all have lots of thoughts about gas cans. Some themes:

• Cut off the dribbler and use a funnel.
  
• Saw off the business end of the dribbler.
  
• Buy an "Eagle" can that already has a funnel.
  
• Buy a vintage pre-dribbler can (or spout).
  
• Buy a race / motorcycle can.
  
• Use a milk jug.
  
• Buy a "No-Spill" brand can.

I'm about 3 miles from a station. Do you just use something like this? http://www.amazon.com/VP-Gallon-Square-Racing-Deluxe/dp/B00AVQCCCW/ref=lp_15707861_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1395344426&sr=1-7 - Never used one before, I assume the hose makes it pretty easy to fill up the car? I am talking w/ EQ tuning

Go to a coin op wash bay with heated sprayers and do a wash with your own soap, bucket, and mitt when you can. Dry with a water magnet towel before driving off and shouldn't be a problem.

Pro tip, bring your own water for filling the bucket to save time and money; I carry mine in a clean jug like this.

Not that it helps but I have had good luck with this model:


https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-UI-50-FS-Galvanized-Gasoline-Capacity/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=pd_sim_86_11?ie=UTF8&dpID=41Qm42Jo4RL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR159%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=29JRFFYN19X5GX0AX181


5 gallon model costs $42, 2 gallon model costs $39.48.

Get one of these:

http://smile.amazon.com/Hopkins-FloTool-11849-Dispos-Oil-Recycle/dp/B0014FKI1Q

and one of these:

http://smile.amazon.com/Hopkins-FloTool-10709-Spill-Funnel/dp/B000EH4V18/

Read and learn this guide:

http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Bio-Diesel

Buy one of these:

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/vw-jetta-tdi

Pour in your tank.

Profit.

Also, since you are on the 2nd floor and above, you probably want to learn to take the stairs or something to even out the deep fried candy.


Edit: Forgot, be sure to put an Apple sticker and/or a Linux Fish on the back of your VW for full credit.

One of the best Amazon purchases I've madr. Worth every penny. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003FZB3N0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_T5m2AbZK2BRP9

These are pricey but if you deal with gas regularly you'll love them. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003FZB3N0

this product on amazon has been my friend for this problem. Also, the garage sale/craigslist posts are good ideas.

Any type I gas can works a million times better

Eagle UI-50-FS Red Galvanized Steel Type I Gasoline Safety Can with Funnel, 5 gallon Capacity, 13.5" Height, 12.5" Diameter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LPKnDbPGNJC5A

https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-UI-50-FS-Galvanized-Gasoline-Capacity/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=Eagle+gas+can&qid=1558744993&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Are these any good? I don’t like the rubber handle, because gas has a tendency of eating it up

Since you seem knowledgeable, can you comment on the safety of using a quality steel can like this in the trunk of a car? I'll be in a very remote area and I'm very concerned about running out of gas.

I bought this last year after doing some research. Only on my 3rd tube. Has worked great so far. Came from a HF where the T-handle broke off on the pull rod and sliced my hand open. All because the grease leaked to the spring side of the seal causing a need for me to pull a lot harder than necessary.

I like the pistol grip more than the other type because once the other one is on the compression stroke the grease is coming out because it is bound to get squeezed closed even when u dont want it to.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002NYDZ8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Local box store such as lowes or order via amazon. The funnel is removable, but obviously useful for filling up mowers, other cans, etc...

Those things are such a joke. Do yourself a favor and get a race can.

https://www.amazon.com/VP-Racing-Fuels-3512-Motorsport/dp/B003TTV972

You can still buy a decent jug. They're still made. People haul those jugs off into the middle of nowhere on off-road vehicles that get beat the fuck up and the jugs endure just fine. They're vented, the caps are really durable, and they come with a nice long hose spout.

Amazon doesn't have the cheapest price on them, you can find them for as low as $24, but the free shipping is a plus.

Edit: I just looked further down the listing and the filler hose is extra, not included. Be sure to get one.

Bought one of these a few years ago, great for yard equipment and the like but a total pain if you want to put gas in a car without another funnel. Anyways it's a little cheaper on Amazon:

Eagle UI-50-FS Red Galvanized Steel Type I Gasoline Safety Can with Funnel, 5 gallon Capacity, 13.5" Height, 12.5" Diameter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LSa6Cb6J7PRR3.

I just looked on Amazon and it looks like you can buy them there. There are also listings for the pour spouts.

http://www.amazon.com/Moeller-Scepter-Resistant-Closures-5-3-Gallon/dp/B000MTI0FG/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1416656157&sr=8-6&keywords=vented+gas+can

http://www.amazon.com/Gas-Can-Spout-Kit-Replacement/dp/B00DGVRXD2/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1416656191&sr=8-7&keywords=vented+gas+can

My wife bought us this one, and I have to say it is stupid easy to refill a generator with the do-hickey on top. Plus, the mouth is so large that when you're re-filling it at the gas station, the pump handle doesn't keep clicking in your hand.

You can still get these new

Eagle UI-50-FS Red Galvanized Steel Type I Gasoline Safety Can with Funnel, 5 gallon Capacity, 13.5" Height, 12.5" Diameter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oEi6Cb118P705

No-Spill makes a good one. Has a spring loaded valve on the back of the spout that you push with your thumb.

Can this sub add a rule that all requests have to be accompanied with some information? We don't know you and it's really hard to make a recommendation with no knowledge of what you have or don't have, what your hobbies are, or what type of things you're looking for. I'm just going to copy/paste my reply to what was pretty much the same thread three days ago. You can get a Nalgene too since my previous recommendation was only for $50

>Since you listed zero requirements I'm going to recommend a Lincoln Lubrication 1134 Heavy Duty Pistol Grip Grease Gun and a tube of your preferred grease. I bought one several years ago so I didn't have to drive to my parents house to use my dad's. They're well made, and essential to keeping the drivetrain of your vehicle properly lubricated. 10/10 purchase.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYDZ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hqdEybRSSGF0Y

That is not actually an issue with HPDE, they actually use it for fuel/automotive containers. Although, some plastics will melt like polystyrene.

https://www.amazon.com/VP-Racing-Fuels-3512-Motorsport/dp/B003TTV972

I have this can (red) and this hose. My dad used them for our dirtbikes when I was growing up so there's a bit of nostalgia in them for me.

Only ones we used to sell at my shop, because we stood by them. never had an issue with mine, and I love how there's and actual button instead of the usual push down nozzle bullshit.

Edit: after reading those reviews, it looks like a lot are missing the O-ring for the nozzle. Might not be preinstalled if you order it directly. I had to put them together before we sold them in our store.

These actually don't suck

https://www.amazon.com/No-Spill-1450-5-Gallon-Poly-Compliant/dp/B000W9JN4S/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=gas%2Bcan&qid=1566782530&s=gateway&sr=8-5&th=1&psc=1

Go for "racing" gas cans. They're exempt from the gas can law's.

https://www.amazon.com/VP-Racing-Fuels-3512-Motorsport/dp/B003TTV972

I have spilt way more fuel worth the new versions than I ever did with older ones. I recently threw away all my gas cans and ordered a few of these. https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-UI-50-FS-Galvanized-Gasoline-Capacity/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=gas%2Bcan&qid=1567700539&s=gateway&sr=8-6&th=1&psc=1

It’s pretty much a tea kettle without all the safety crap. Haven’t spilled a drop.

I used serpentine oil, this one: https://www.amazon.com/Supco-CE441-Zoom-Spout-Oiler/dp/B00DM8JK2G

My family has several Eagle gas cans that are many decades old and still get the job done.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004Y75M/ref=psd_mlt_bc_B00004Y75M

I've been using these cans for a few years. They are a bit pricey, but they have been durable and I don't spill any gas.

It's raining here, so, I'm browsing reddit. Here you go.

https://www.amazon.com/VP-Racing-Square-Utility-Gallons/dp/B00OJ7MCA6

$35 for 5gal gasoline type 1

https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-UI-50-FS-Galvanized-Gasoline-Capacity/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=eagle+safety+can+5+gallon&qid=1558783784&s=gateway&sprefix=eagle+safety&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-UI-50-FS-Galvanized-Gasoline-Capacity/dp/B00004Y75M/

I'm going to second this, but add that I use the one with a built-in hose which has been very reliable. Mine have been stored in my non-climate controlled barn for years with no adverse effects. The valve take a bit of practice to get used to using, but not a bother after that. I use an old wine cork to keep bugs and dust out of the hose.

Also note: I only use real gas and a stabilizer in these cans. For the slight extra cost, I can use it in all of my vehicles, farm equipment, and power equipment without worrying about the ethanol content. I buy the stabilizer in bulk from Amazon as well.

I’ve got this one and have been pretty happy with it. It’s a little bit of a pain to fill - you have to remove the funnel to do so. But I have no problem when it comes to filling lawn and garden gas tanks.

https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-UI-50-FS-Galvanized-Gasoline-Capacity/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=gas+can+metal+5+gallon&qid=1558726693&s=gateway&sprefix=gas+can+m&sr=8-3

Get one of these to transport it to the store. I just walk into the back of any advanced or autozone and dump it in their tank.

If you have Amazon Prime, theres a bunch of options on there for small little containers of 33ms, no need for a large tube, and you'll get it in 2-days with Prime.

I got this one, in the 1/4oz version. I've used it for 3 builds so far, and i still have a lot of it.

I bought a sealable plastic container from Autozone . Drain the oil into a pan, then pour the pan into the container. Any auto parts store will have an oil dump where you can empty the container.

What kind of bike needs a lift for an oil change?

I have this one: link

Easy to use. You tip it into whatever you want to fill then press and hold the button behind the spout. Gas comes out and you release when you get to the amount you want. No leaks, no spills, stupid simple to use. Only downside is that it can be a bit of a pain in the ass to get the top off. Takes some force sometimes.


Edit: I am seeing people having issues with the o-ring. I haven't had an issue with mine and it sits with gas in it a lot(I bought it for working on a snowblower). Not saying it isn't an issue I just don't have experience with it.