(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best furniture hardware

Here's the blog post text:

Our wooden donation crate

Have you ever decided to donate an unwanted item only to forget about it entirely until you found it again months later sill taking up space in a corner somewhere in your house? Have you ever started to fill up a cardboard box with stuff to donate, only to find yourself taking things in and out of the box a few weeks later, unsure of which items you finally decided to keep, donate or throw away? Has your partner or roommate ever accidentally given away an object of yours, stating that they thought you had recently made passing comment about wanting to get rid of it?

If so, I have a simple solution: create your own permanent wooden donation crate.

There’s a bright orange wooden crate which has lived in a dedicated space at the bottom of one of our closets for the last two years. This is our donation box. We call it the “orange crate”. It has a sole one purpose: everything that goes in it is donated. No exceptions. My partner and I are never unsure about the fate of items which end up in the orange crate: items that are placed in it will eventually be donated (usually at the local thrift store).

Why use a wooden crate?
I selected a wooden crate as the box because those are relatively cheap, they have sturdy handles, they’re able to hold heavy items, liquids won’t damage them (contrary to cardboard boxes), they hold no smells, items at the bottom of the box can be seen through the wooden slits, and theses cases can last for multiple generations since you can easily repair them.

Why paint it orange?
I spray painted the wooden crate a bright orange so that there will never be any ambiguity with other crates or boxes in our house; it is clear that this crate is not a storage container which can be used for moving or storing various items. I never have to worry about whether or not my partner forgot about what will happen to stuff that is placed in the only bright orange wooden crate that we own.



How did you make it?

Step 1: Choose a crate
First, select your crate size and type. We went with a basic pine crate that measures 18” x 12.5” X 9.5” but there are crates made of different woods and of different sizes. Find what works best for you.

Step 2: Sanding
Then, you’ll want to sand it to get rid of rough surfaces and get the handles nice and smooth for splinter free transportation.

Step 3: Painting
When you’re ready to paint, get some cardboard boxes or plastic sheets to cover the floor and one or two sides of where you decide to work and get spraying. Follow the distance and spray patters as directed on the can. Ideally you should paint outside or in a well-ventilated space. I ended up needing two cans of oil aerosol paint to get a nice even coat on every surface of the crate, inside and out. Let the crate dry for approximately 72 hours to make sure the paint doesn’t transfer onto other surfaces or objects. I decided not to prime or seal the crate because I wanted to keep costs down on this project. I wouldn’t add any of those steps if I had to make another one; it has held up perfectly so far.

Step 4. Furniture glides
Once everything is dry, stick some plastic furniture glides beneath each corner of the crate so that it can easily be moved around on the floor or in your car trunk, and to help protect it from rough surfaces (such as pavement).

A few extra features

So, our orange crate functions according to a basic rule which never changes: items placed in it are to be donated. However, over time, a few extra features have been added.

First, there’s a binder clip which holds rebate cards for our local thrift store. It always stays clipped to one of the walls of the crate. Whenever we go there to empty out the crate, a staff member punches one or several holes in the card. Once the card is full, it can be applied to purchases during a future visit to their store. What we do is fill up those cards each time we go to empty our orange crate and then we donate the cards to a local non-profit which provides free furniture and clothing to those in need. Staff or volunteers at the non-profit can then use them themselves to purchase items for clients or pass the cards on to their clients. It’s best to keep the rebate cards with the box so that the cards can be punched when we go to the thrift store, aren’t lost, forgotten at home before leaving with the crate or accidentally placed in my partner’s wallet, etc.

Second, I also keep a stack of orange stickers with the binder clip so that we can identify larger items for donation that don’t fit in the crate. The larger items are usually kept near the crate so that they’re brought along when one of us makes a trip to the thrift store. I’m using some old post-it stickers for now but I’ll eventually get some large orange stickers that don’t need additional tape to hold well.

Finally, I have a monthly recurring task on my to-do app to drop off the orange crate at the nearby thrift store. This helps ensure that the box doesn’t overflow and that items which might happen to be near the filled-up crate aren’t accidentally picked up and donated when we take the crate to go empty it at the thrift store.

Note: This post was crossposted to r/konmari

Hi, thanks in advance for any help or advice.

I wish to build a work-space for painting that is 2.4 meters long (7.87 feet), 120 centimeters tall (3.9 feet), and 60 centimeters deep (1.9 foot). There will be a lip of maybe 2 centimeters (an inch) on the front and sides, and a 30 centimeter (a foot) splash-back. The most important requirement is that it needs to be perfectly level at all times across the entirety of the surface, and it needs to be easily adjustable to make it perfectly level.

Im planning on using laminated MDF for the surface, and 8 leg levelers

Is this the best route for creating a perfectly level work-space? Cheers guys and gals.

So I had to find a solution to my 55" TV being RIGHT next to my play area and 5-6 inches outside of my chaperon boundary. It is a disaster waiting to happen when I get into some more action oriented games.

Ordered some of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Reusable-Furniture-Movers-Carpeted-Surfaces/dp/B001W6Q4VA

to put under my entertainment center so I can move it into my central hallway when playing with my Vive. In my previous apartment, my entertainment center was a bit of a mess of a long power strip connected to several surge protectors which everything hooked up to for power. I don't have cable as I get the vast majority of my entertainment via the net, so the only things that need to be connected to the entertainment center are power and network (may try using my wireless N network). I have one long power strip (has like 10 outlets on it and is about 4 feet long) that has a very long heavy duty cord which I should be able to stretch to keep the power connected to everything on the entertainment center while it's moved. I'm planning on attaching that strip, along with all the surge protectors needed, to the back of the entertainment center.

My play area currently is about 2.5m x 1.9m. and I'm hoping to increase that to 2.1m with moving the entertainment center when needed.

I will report back when I get it all setup, the sliders should be here on Thursday.

If you're just talking about liberally applying liquid to the top of the piece, you should be just fine. Folks do this regularly when staining or applying other treatments. If you're literally soaking the board in a bath, all bets are off.

Just keep a couple things in mind when choosing plywood:

• How many layers? The more layers the more stable. Nice baltic birch with 7+ layers is basically immune to warp. This is by far the most important consideration.
  
• Thickness. This is pretty intuitive. Thicker = stronger = less flex. I'd stick to 3/4" or more. 1/2" would probably be ok, but you're not gonna save enough to make it worth taking the risk.
  
• What grade is it? You can google for more info, but in a nutshell, the nice smooth stuff is going to be better than the rougher exterior/construction grade stuff.
  
  All that said, if you just get MDF it'll be cheaper than high-grade plywood and every bit as good. The main tradeoff is weather resistance and a bit more weight, neither of which are big concerns here. The weight is probably even a plus as it'll lend stability to things.
  
  With either option, you shouldn't need to do any bracing. You may, however, want to put a couple of runners or blocks on the underside so the board isn't prone to sliding around on top of the table. Sticking on a handful of those rubber disks that go under furniture legs would likely work just as well.

I do something similar. To make these, I do the following:

1. Open a blank OpenOffice "picture" document. Other applications might work as well but that's what I use for now.
   
2. Seek out art online. When I find something I like, I drag it into a folder.
   
3. Once I have the art pieces I like, I open the art image and nab a perfectly-square selection from that image. I use Mac's Preview document for this, holding down the shift button as I select the area so the selection stays square.
   
4. Paste it into the OpenOffice doc. Then right click on it and adjust the settings so it's a perfect 1" x 1" square and move it into place. Use the snap-to-grid feature so they line up perfectly.
   
5. Once I have them all in there, print it out.
   
6. Use the 1" hole punch I picked up from Michael's (they also sell them online) and punch them all out.
   
7. Stick them to a base. I use [1" self-stick felt furniture pads] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001WAK5XE/ref=twister_B001WAK5XO?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1) because they're super light-weight and I can buy a pack of 100 of them from Home Depot for six bucks.
   
   I can make a small army in a couple of hours, and they store well in one of those plastic tackle boxes. For bigger things, I usually just print it out on paper and cut it square then let it just lie flat on the table to represent the occupied space, since I rarely have occasion to re-use those things.

Wanted a better way to carry my things to the sessions so I heavily modified and printed a spellbook dice box/dice tray to be able to fit a few minis, a dice box, and a mini spellbook I made using some cheap things from amazon.

If you want to make your own all you'll is need is:

• 3D Printer (or access to one)
  
• This files are the book itself
  
• For the mini spellbook I used this cheap "leather" credit card wallet
  
• For the felt for the dice rolling I bought this self-adhesive felt
  
• For the foam I used this pelican case foam
  
• For the magnets to keep it closed I used this pretty strong magnets
  

I agree! It could be a great coffee table...or a stand on which to put your new (better) turntable. Just buy some felt sticky pads, get a piece of glass cut at your local hardware store to whatever size, and viola! new cool coffee table or stand. You get to honor your grandma and have a cool piece of furniture as well.

Sure. Little small clear rubber/vinyl "bumpers" you'd think to put on kitchen cabinet doors to absorb the noise, or on the bottom of DVD players, etc. I usually see them in the furniture/hardware section of stores like Walmart, the local hardware store, etc.

The ones I got at WalMart are Self Touch brand, they come in a pack of 20, and are 1/4 inch. Self stick (which means they have adhesive on the back -- keep this in mind). They look a lot like these. I thought they were the perfect size, but again I saw a mark on the right side of my screen the other day so they might not be (time will tell -- I cleaned it off, we'll see if it comes back). Ace and 3M also make bumpers/spacers.

They also have self stick felt pads in these sections, but unfortunately the ones I've seen are brown or green rather than black, and plus they compress more easily than the rubber bumpers.

I've also read of people using the feet from their XBOX 360s or their Wiis. See also the neogaf thread regarding the screen scratching issue (Google will turn it up for you).

Hope that helps.

A few years back, I bought some self-adhesive green felt at the Home Despot in the cabinet hardware aisle. They don't seem to carry it anymore, and neither does Lowes, but I found what looks like the same stuff on Amazon. It also looks like Ace Hardware carries it, though whether or not the store near you does I can't say.

I used some of it to re-line some tube rings at one point. That was about 8 years ago and the felt is still there.

Depending on how loose it is, this might work just fine, or might be a little too thick. u/orlet's suggestion of just adding a little tape would probably work fine as well. You basically just need to shim it a bit. Another option would be to get a piece of cardstock, cut a strip and glue it in place around the edge.

One other creative solution I've seen is to get a shower cap, the type with elastic. Those pop right over and the elastic holds it in place.

Team invisibility yo! I could be the worlds first ever nudist bank robber :p They both look like a fantastic prize, but the coasters get my slight preference because they are truly limited edition. I can't exactly get them very easily later :) (P.S. The one thing I would add to the coasters are little rubber feet. It gives them traction and provides an air barrier for condensation if you have a cold drink. Here's some I found on Amazon )

Edit: a word

It looks like the counter is supported by a piece of angle iron bolted to the wall. And that whatever they put the bolts into isn't providing sufficient structure to carry the weight of the counter top.

Get a piece of stain grade wood that's almost the right length, and attach something like this to the bottom to get it level and carry it: http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Leveler-Wide-Foot/dp/B0037MK8XC/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1416936895&sr=8-8&keywords=leveling+leg

You'll then of course need a way to secure that leg to keep it stable.

Thanks. I ended up having to cut and paint my own pieces to make the second level. Like I’ve seen others do on this sub, I bought the Ikea 6” risers to raise it up https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/9178881986/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Having the second level is pretty awesome

For any of your metal tools, coat them in a layer of oil to protect them from the moisture. Just spray some wd-40 into a shop rag and wipe them down with it if you don't have anything fancier. Old tools with some rust can mostly be recovered with persistence, but you want to keep them from getting worse. New tools you'll want to oil as well, and keep in a toolbox or similar.

I just bought these levelers with the plan of using them with my workbench to both get a level surface and to keep the posts off the ground. Getting the wood off the floor will definitely help slow any rot. You could also try weatherproofing/sealing the lower part of the legs on your bench, but it may be too late for the existing legs.

If you're going to be storing boards and other wood stock in the garage, I'd definitely suggest at least a canopy cover for your stack, given how leaky the garage sounds.

Is the door with the gaps the overhead garage door, or a regular swing door to the outside? If it's a swing door, you could replace both the door and frame somewhat easily and all your gaps would go away. Harder than replacing a broken piece of glass in a window, but easier than replacing an entire window frame.

https://global.rakuten.com/en/store/backyard-p20/item/ym3330/

Saw these while I was in Japan and knew they would make great speaker stands.

Then I used Rubber Bumpers Self Adhesive Large - 20 Pack - Rubber Pads for Cutting Board Feet - 1 Inch Square Clear Rubber Bumper Pads https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G5WX4M2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VhJkDbVPAFY38

To keep my speakers stable. Took me so long to find desktop speaker stands at a decent price that look good.

not op but i think you have to buy them separately. like the table top is one item, the two drawers are both individual items, then the 8 (or however many) legs are individual items (they do come in bundles however) then after you purchase you can assemble them in any formation you want

edit: looked up those stands if you’d like to check them out on amazon i think it’s the same ones

my sub built one from the toilet sit. He drilled these legs into them. Trust me I am very happy that he did that. It was as if I was rimmed for the first time.
Quite sturdy for me to sit on and good enouth space for him to go under with a pillow.

You could try a version with a side mount bracket...but not as clean looking.

Good luck and thank you :)

A solution I found to make it harder to change knobs, but still lets you adjust them, are these.

Remove knob. Drill a hole in the center of the pad slightly smaller than the pot shaft. Put pad over the shaft. Replace knob.

Stack a couple to really make it hard to move the knob.

Good thing is this mod is easy to reverse without damaging the pedal.

If that doesn’t work, this may be a good inconspicuous solution -

Clear Adhesive Bumper Pads 106-PC Combo Pack (Round, Spherical, Square) - Made in USA - Sound Dampening Transparent Rubber Feet for Cabinet Doors, Drawers, Glass Tops, Picture Frames, Cutting Boards https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPCLN23/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PSz9Ab8415BQ5

Is there anything that attaches both to the top and bottom?

This looks somewhat close.

Edit: pretty sure this wouldn't work since the bottom part needs to rotate freely and not be attached to anything.

Thanks!

When I bought them, they were a $4 add-on item. Home depot sells similarly priced legs. Both retailers sell them in a variety of shapes and sizes. I used the same stain on the legs, and it matches better than the pic indicates.

Here are the support things.

I've built two systems for clients almost identical to this recently.

Only differences:

• RAM size
  
• $190 for 16GB LED kit - http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-Ballistix-Tactical-PC3-12800-BLT2CP8G3D1608DT2TXRG/dp/B0091L1MRY
  
• LED color ... I have Red/Green selected for you due to your mention of red. They wanted wanted Orange/Blue. - I much prefer the Red/Green. Orange/Blue is a little cheesy IMHO. Red/Green is more classic LED colors.
  
  
• SSD size
  
• 512GB Crucial MX100 SSDs for $209
  
• No hard drives
  
• One build with a single drive, the other with 2x 512GB SSDs
  
  
• Video card
  
• One went with no video card.
  
• Another with an EVGA 780 ti Superclocked.
  
  
• Power supply
  
• One without video card went for a Corsair 450w Gold semi-modular unit.
  
• One with a 780ti had a sale on the 650w corsair gold unit made it cheaper than the 550w.
  
  
• Monitors
  
• Both have LG IPS screens and love em... just different exact models.
  
• One was a 24" version ... The other a 23" with advanced stand.
  
  Both are using that exact keyboard and love it ... It's their first mechanical board. Frankly, there are better, but much more expensive mechanical boards out there. Since it's their first mechanical, they just know it's much better than plastic domes. With the Cost + LED back lighting makes that keyboard almost impossible to pass up.
  
  They had other mice... But I've use that Logitech G602 on other builds before. Battery life beats out any other wireless gaming mice they have used.
  
  -----------
  
  One uses these rubber feet on the side of the case ... so they can see right in the window with it on their desk. - http://www.amazon.com/Sorbothane-Hemisphere-Non-Skid-Adhesive-Durometer/dp/B00516DL5Y/
  
  Going to see if I can find a photo of it on his desk
  
  ----------
  
  These little rigs are so nice, and Microcenter's price on the i7-4790k so nice I've been very tempted to build similar for myself in the new Corsair 380T - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6JU_jevfdGA
  
  Almost de-railing my plans to build myself a new 6-core/8-core with the X99... which doesn't get any smaller than Micro-ATX.
  

I have this exact chair and love it. I'm on hardwood floors so I ordered these caster wheel stoppers. They work perfect and can be swapped in and out in a few seconds.

Those are the same. Just under a different brand. Pair them with these:

Non Slip Furniture Grippers X-PROTECTOR – Premium 8 pcs 2” Furniture Pads! Best SelfAdhesive Rubber Feet for Furniture Feet – Ideal Non Skid Furniture Floor Protectors for Fixation in Place Furniture https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XGM4QTD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YhKTCb70PPGN2

Thanks for the love y'all! Here's the link to the legs!

I once got tile floor samples shipped to me. I use them daily as coasters. They're about 3" X 5" X 0.5" thick. They need some felt pads stuck on them to keep from sliding on or scratching my glass coffee table though. Basically these coasters for a much lower price.

They're great for putting candles on. The Yankee Candle large size fits pretty nicely on it. It sits on my nightstand. This one is heavy enough it doesn't slide. It isn't necessary, but it looks nice. Might get one of these to do the same with.

Another, unrelated use for construction samples. Someone I knew I was planning on making a scratching post for their cat. Went to Home Depot to get a section of carpet. Ended up getting a bunch of carpet square samples and made a mosaic kind of thing.

I rented an appliance dolly for $10 from uhaul. My 18 gun Winchester safe weighs 280lbs and between me and a buddy we were able to move it on the dolly easily.

Once you get it to the area you want it to go, set furniture sliders underneath it as you set it down.

Super Sliders Round Movers for Furniture on Carpeted Surfaces – Reusable – 4 Pack – 3½-inch Diameter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001WAK5UW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5YCpzb3BE5M2S

From there slide it into place. Have your buddy start to tip it over while you pull the sliders out using a ruler or other device. I used a straightened out metal clothes hanger. You can use your fingers if you arent that attached to them....

I used these for my ps2avrgb, they're a bit bigger than I expected but your KB definitely won't be sliding!
edit: I can take a pic of those feet on my ps2avrgb when I get home if you'd like to see.

I would advise you to forget about attaching it to the wall and instead put some real furniture legs on that piece of furniture. IKEA's CAPITA legs will probably do the job http://www.amazon.com/IKEA-CAPITA-Leg-Stainless-Steel/dp/9178881986/ref=lp_511274_1_15?s=hardware&ie=UTF8&qid=1459220311&sr=1-15

The real problem isn't attaching it to the wall, but rather that your existing supports kinda suck.

2) If you must attach it to the wall, once it is on some good supporting furniture legs, drywall screws placed into a stud will work exceptionally well. However I doubt this will really be necessary if you get some good legs on it.

I've been using the vinyl bumpers recommended in this guide:

http://www.cryptobadger.com/2013/04/build-a-litecoin-mining-rig-hardware/

They work perfectly.

I simply download pictures of whatever mobs I want to make and minimize them to an appropriate size and print out a sheet of them. Here's an example of a group of kenkus that I made a while back.

Then I use self-stick furniture pads & a round paper punch to make custom tokens. I've found that with my particular punch it's better to use a thicker paper, like a cardstock or construction paper.

Then for storage I simply put them into a fishing tackle box. I've made several hundred that way.

I have containers of switches, right now speed coppers are my favorite daily followed by speed gold and then Halo trues. are still more switches to try out still and there are others I just don't use in bags. feet are Cone Shaped Clear Rubber Bumpers... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075KWVTJV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

So could i use something like this for the legs to help level?

4 pack of 2000 Lb. Capacity Heavy Duty Leg Levelers

Yes, it's a bit loose. My solution is to stick one of these rubber stickers inside the tip of the fork. It adds enough traction to help things stay in place.

Nope, everything inside was unharmed. I bought these feet for it and they've been working great!

Rubber feet like these?

Rubber Feet Adhesive Rubber Pads, 1 Inch Square Self Stick Bumpers, Clear Bumper Pads - 20 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G5WX4M2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ybBSzb1SZ0VX6

Some of these to rise up your ps4 a bit to create better airflow.

It happens from the raised boarder around the touch screen. What me and my friends did is we got rubber bumpers and put them in the top left and right corners of the top screen, it still closes and goes to sleep and it stops that annoying scratch line from showing up.

http://www.amazon.com/Rubber-Bumper-Protect-Cushion-Surfaces/dp/B000JLD7LO

something like that. It keeps your ds screens from resting together.

Good point. That sparked my curiousity, so I went on Amazon and found these: https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Leveler-Wide-Foot/dp/B0037MK8XC#productDetails

Happened to me too, just buy replace rubber feet:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPCLN23/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_U3mWCbSBNQBW2

These worked so nicely for me and continue to be amazing

Leveling feet designed for an aquarium will have no problem holding that kind of weight, but they are difficult to install if your stand doesn't already have them. Wooden shims are cheaper and easier, lay down your plywood base first, then level the tank on top of the plywood.

Do not use these style that mount on the side of the legs/stand as they will rip out of plywood or MDF easily.

I actually got those with Amazon Prime. Here's what I grabbed: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004YOHP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (3/4" Clear 12-pack)

I guess you can get something like these in every hardware store, they should work fine.

Or..... this, which will actually decouple and save you a few bucks.

I use the Capita legs on mine. This looks more like what OP has though.

If you need to move your fridge, or anything heavy...boy sliders like [THESE] (https://www.amazon.com/Reusable-Furniture-Sliders-Carpeted-Surfaces/dp/B001W6Q4VA/ref=sr_1_4?s=hardware&ie=UTF8&qid=1520794995&sr=1-4&keywords=furniture+sliders) They're amazing and if you can, I'd put them on your fridge now to avoid the hassle later if there is ever a leak, etc.

Updated the link!

Thanks, they are these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075KWVTJV

These might work even better: http://www.amazon.com/Rubber-Anti-Skid-Furniture-Protectors-assorted/dp/B00H876X5Y

what about using something like This on the tab 90?

You could also get something like this, there are also little stopper things that go under the wheels if you don't want to replace them

Are you wanting to permanently fix them to the furniture or just to move around your room? If just to move around the home, I use these a lot and they work quite well. Also, I used these in college at a furniture store I worked at. Makes darn near everything a one-man job.

http://www.amazon.com/Reusable-Furniture-Movers-Carpeted-Surfaces/dp/B001W6Q4VA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465220577&sr=8-1&keywords=furniture+glides+and+sliders

How much taller? I got this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075KWVTJV

It sticks on roomba and has not come off after quite a few months. I had the same problem. It looks fine too. Kind of like a budding unicorn.

If you don't find any suction cups, you can always get some anti-slip pads. Something like this.

Something like this, or similar: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPCLN23/

These work very well too, I use them for both flight sim and sim racing.

How much are you willing to mod it?

[Leveling feet] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037MK8XC/ref=asc_df_B0037MK8XC5110807/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B0037MK8XC&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198095900368&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16877040462279695856&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027240&hvtargid=pla-319952916403) and a 2 x 4 should do just fine

DOUBLE SIDED TAPE!!

On a serious note, you can grab some anti-skid rubber pads from amazon, remove the old rubber pads from underneath your keyboard, and just stick on some new ones.

Haven't tried it but i figure it would do the job.

Link: https://www.amazon.com/Rubber-Anti-Skid-Furniture-Protectors-assorted/dp/B00H876X5Y/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1467465229&sr=8-6&keywords=rubber+feet

There are plenty of heavy-duty leveling feet. E.g. these ones claim to support 2000 lbs per foot.

If you're worried about catching you could bevel the leading edge slightly.

just order a custom cut piece of tempered glass and be done with it. order these or something similar - the glass will not slide. https://www.amazon.com/Rubber-Adhesive-Square-Bumpers-Bumper/dp/B01G5WX4M2/

glass on top of rubber like this is used in every piece of glass top furniture as long as it's tempered glass you'll be fine. If you reall are worried, cut an inset into the table for the glass to be a little smaller and then lay it inside.

I am getting furniture sliders for my coffee table so I can move it out of the way when I want the space for room scale. I am also seeing if i can cover both my desk and room scale space with only two lighthouses.

i use adhesive rubber tabs/bumpers i got at the hardware store for my speaker to stand contact. similar to what i posted below, but mine are about half inch rather than an inch. they sell round ones too.

https://www.amazon.com/Rubber-Adhesive-Square-Bumpers-Bumper/dp/B01G5WX4M2/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_201_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=67KYR8BCANXHEPWBXQ7W&dpID=41maykcOTCL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

The basic movement uses 2 floor sliders. You start in a bridge pose with the sliders under your heels then push your feet out until just before full extension. Then you curl your hamstrings in.

Basic Movement

It can be progressed by splitting your legs in a V as you push out, or doing it one-legged.

I’ve been considering building a workbench with https://www.amazon.com/Rok-Hardware-Capacity-Adjustable-Furniture/dp/B01N4BUE1P and https://www.amazon.com/SPACECARE-Swivel-Caster-Polyurethane-Bearing/dp/B07K2S25D3

Find the contact points on the wall and install some little rubber feet.

https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Bumper-106-PC-Spherical-Square/dp/B06XPCLN23?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_6

Rok Hardware 4 Pack Heavy Duty 8000 LB Capacity Adjustable Furniture Leg Leveler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4BUE1P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gsCACbY99EXWS

https://www.amazon.com/Self-Stick-Furniture-Round-Felt-Surfaces/dp/B001WAK5XE

These and then just put them under your tripod legs, and friction keeps it inplace. They glide over almost any carpet and they also make some designed for hardwood flooring.

Personally, I'd just grab a set of leveling legs.

Bumpers I believe. Like this?

1. if the floor isnt level, there's a reason. Most cases it's for drainage.
   
   
2. there are leveling feet specific for work benches. like these

http://www.amazon.com/Rubber-Bumper-Protect-Cushion-Surfaces/dp/B000JLD7LO

These + These = What you were asking for.

I found them on amazon. These things are seriously heavy duty and a fraction of the price of other levelers. They have a hex head on the top of the screw. Couldn't be happier.

http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Leveler-Wide-Foot/dp/B0037MK8XC/ref=pd_sim_hi_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=1F75J66434J8P08ZBMZJ

They make rubberized feet that'll fit on a 4x4 table leg. I think my father grabbed these at a local wood working store, but I bet Home Depot or Lowes would offer something.

Pic of my table showing what I'm talking about.

https://www.flickr.com/gp/64462769@N06/jCrn97

​

Or you could grab a heavy duty leveler... but it may not look as nice since it'll be visible.

https://www.amazon.com/Rok-Hardware-Capacity-Adjustable-Furniture/dp/B01N4BUE1P/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_bs_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BKJ2ZYVMXNJSNRCRKW4J

​

Is she angry?

Edit - stick some of these felt pads in her door frame.