Nothing to show yet, but I managed to braze some wire coat hangers together pretty easily using flux coated welding rod and the 0-size tip that came with the Victor kit. Had to be pretty quick to avoid burning through, and my brazing rod is way too big (1/8") but it's definitely possible and the brazing connection was very strong. Certainly good enough for sculpture, wall hangings, etc.

Brazing 1/8" RG 45 rod together is very easy. I'm just using 1/8" flux-coated brazing rod from Home Depot and it works fine. 1/16" rod would probably be better, though. And Goehl is right when he suggests scraping off about half of the flux coating. If you don't it leaves a sticky clear residue. I think I'm going to switch to bare bronze and powdered flux. I ordered a bunch of welding rod from Weldfabulous during their Black Friday sale so I can try some smaller size rods.

I'm glad I have the Victor 100FC handle so I can tackle a variety of stuff but for tiny wire work it seems like a light duty torch might be a better option. I've noticed that Goehl also uses a Smith AW1A light duty torch a lot. For a cheaper "airline" style torch there's the Uniweld 71 and the Ameriflame knockoff. Both of them are cheap and have good reviews on Amazon.

So far I'm mostly practicing laying 1/8" RG 45 down on black iron pipe to try to practice puddle control. My results are terrible but this is a really good practice material. Cheap, easy to get anywhere, and easy to work with. I just throw a set of cheap locking pliers on one end of a piece of pipe to keep it from rolling and go to town on it.

I also did some tests welding short lengths of rebar together and that worked out OK but I think a 0 tip is too small. Probably need at least a 3 or 4. The 0 tip worked but it took a long time to get the material up to temp.

The CK flex-loc is a nice torch, but I'd recommend learning on a simple rigid -17 just because it's almost universally familiar to everyone in the industry and it's what almost every welding school will start you off with. The reasoning is that a -17 is basically the industry standard torch for most work under 150 amps and it's a torch you'll come across it almost everywhere. A rigid -17 will do for 95% of what you'll be welding, it's cheap, it's reliable, and almost every welding supply will have parts for it if you need anything. What more can I say,? This is a no-brainer decision unless you will be doing stricly low amp work (if so, a -9 might be prefereable). I'd save the CK flexloc for a little while later when you want to get fancy, stick with the basics for now.

My recommended "basic essentials" shopping list:

• CK-17 with the super-flex hose (Radnor power cable hoses aren't particulary nice, CK superflex hose is way mo' better)
  
• Torch connector to fit your particular machine
  
• 10 pack of 3/32" 2% lanthanated tungsens
  

• 6 Stubby gas lens (at least 1)
  

• 6,7,8 cups (at least one of each)
  

• 3/32 collet body (make sure you get the right type)
  
• 3/32 CK wedge style collets. (the CK wedge style work a LOT better than split type collets)
  
• Assorted back caps for torch (one button, one shorty, one long)
  
  A lot of this stuff your local welding supply should carry or you can get it on Ebay for cheap. -17 torch parts are pretty generic. On the subject of welding supply stores, I would NOT recommend Airgas unless you like paying full retail + 25% price for everything.
  
  You will also need a cylinder of Argon (80 cubic foot is a good size for a hobbyist), a decent Argon flowmeter, and 6' of inert gas hose (Argon uses 5/8-18 "B" fittings) if you want to be able to use your new toy.
  
  I'd also recommend two 20' lengths of #2 or #4 gauge cable for you ground and stinger leads (TIG will use the same ground cable). For a stinger the Lenco 200 amp is pretty much industry standard for light duty. For a ground clamp, buy the nicest one you can afford -- Nothing pisses me off more than a shitty ground clamp - it's a pet peeve of mine. ("Earth" clamp for the Brits here, and "Work Lead" for the technical nitpickers)
  
  Keep in mind that aside from the specific machine connectors which are only really useful for your specific machine, almost everything else I mention you would have to buy with any TIG welder. Welcome to the club, prepare to be "nickel and dimed" for a while until you settle on what works best for you.
  

As Aureolin22 said, I doubt the flowerpot would tolerate very many heating and cooling cycles before it broke. Have you considered doing the same thing but lining a small charcoal grill or a cheap steel wok instead?

Serious question: Why is propane not an option? Stores won't sell propane to you, or your parents won't let you?

I ask because you might have good luck making a small propane forge using a spiral flame propane torch, a small coffee can or large soup can, and a 50/50 mix of sand and Plaster of Paris. (refractory cement would probably work as well or better than the sand/plaster mix)

There was a post here on it a short while back. It seemed interesting so I built one myself just to see how well it worked. Turns out, it works pretty good! It won't produce welding temperatures, but it gets plenty hot for forging. It worked even better after I partially closed off the mouth of the forge with three pieces of firebrick. The one I made also has a 9/16" hole drilled through the back so that I can heat round stock up to 1/2" inch diameter anywhere along its length. I have used it twice now for about 30 minutes each time and I still have only used about half of the fuel in the tank. (I started with a full tank just to see how long it would last in one of these.)

If you are interested I can take some pictures of the one I made.

If coal or charcoal is your only option and you want to stay really cheap just dig a little hole and build your fire in the hole with your air pipe poking in from the side. (assuming the powers that be at home won't lose their minds over you digging a hole and you have a yard to dig in.)

Do you ever plan on doing 5 gallon batches? If you have the space it will be more cost effective to just go for a full size keging system. Mini kegs are going to cost you roughly what a new 5 gallon keg will.

That said if it's only a one-off thing you could use some 2 liter bottles and get yourself a co2 tank and regulator and a carbonation cap and force carb that way, it won't be on "tap" but it will be force carbonated.. and you can keep it carbonated if you leave the cap on and top off the bottle with co2 each time you pour from it.


If you have nothing then you'll need a regulator I have this one: (taprite t742hp primary double gauge co2 regulator, brass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UZUJ22/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_auBCDbBPZ3V0H)

A co2 tank, something like this: (5lb co2 tank- new aluminum cylinder with cga320 valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HQQ3WWE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BvBCDbXPB33KP)

Some 5/16 tubing l, and a ball lock gas disconnect like this (5/16" gas line assembly - ball lock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064OI77Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6wBCDbSWZWMNY)

And a carbonation cap like this : (stainless carbonation cap counter pressure bottle filling with 5/16" barb，co2 coupling to carbonate soda beer fruit juice water https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K4GGYT0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BxBCDbK0V3J35)




I also have this regulator for my mobile mini keg set-up: Ultimate CO2 Regulator works with 5 types of CO2 tanks (0-50psi) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071J9FKVD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nABCDbQWF87S3
It works great and I use it with a soda stream co2 tank which are a little pricey for how much co2 you get but they're convenient and available everywhere. This makes a nice compact system since you don't have the big regulator and big co2 tank.

Brush the stick toward the spot you wanna strike the arc, like you're moving a paintbrush across a canvas. If you're using a used rod, be sure there is bare metal on the end of the electrode by removing it from the clamp, tapping the end on a hard surface, or giving the end a nip with the welpers. Strike the arc onto clean metal, as clean as you can get it. I don't care if you're working on your uncle's tractor, this will establish a more reliable arc. Take wire brushes or wheels to stuff. Clean metal. Clean metal. No slag. No scale. Be fastidious about this, where you're gonna be striking an arc, Just be careful you don't chip off too much electrode coating, an uncoated electrode gives a poor result.
If you stick one, hey, for "#2" up there, you got it down as well as anybody else, let's face it. There's no really graceful way to unstick a rod. Just remember to breathe, be comfortable in whatever position you're being tasked to bind the steel in, and also, be comfortable. Did I say be comfortable? Take another five to twitch all the twitches you gotta to get all the right elbows in all the right places. This is welding. You're gonna rehearse this. Where are your hands gonna be when you're done with this arc strike? Is that sustainable in reality, for your wrists? Your back? Whatever? Without an electrode even in the holder, play-pretend to go all the way through this bead, where you want it. Rehearse. See any spots you need to adjust where you are.
Steel is very unforgiving. It demands a calm, careful, steady hand. Heed this not, and spend an obscene amount of time with your Angle Grinder.
For #3, it depends on a lot of factors. Just starting out, I'd be listening to every word every instructor said, writing it down, and applying it as precisely as possible.

I do a back yard show too and I find the board method too cumbersome. I now use the duct tape/bag/stake method.

1. Duct tape: You've googled 4 cakes that you could hypothetically stick together because they "jive well". Duct tape them together with the fuses facing outward. Fuse so they all go off at once, or fuse in series. Use different speeds to accomplish your goal. You now have the stability of four cakes all in one. Gluing to a board is too much effort for me.
   
2. Bag: get a garbage bag over the whole thing once fused and you have a waterproof cake pod ready to go.
   
3. Stake: (IMO optional) Wrap Duct tape around the bag and stake to the ground for added stability
   
   Not a fan of roman candles. Dont waste your money.
   
   Make sure you test your fuse and know what speed it burns. My white fuse burns super fast. My green fuse burns faster than my yellow. My yellow burns much faster than the Pink. The pink is slower than the Shiny green fuse. That wasn't always the case. My green fuse was always the slowest and yellow was the fastest.
   
   I also don't like the idea of reloading shells during the show. If you must, you can prep them by zip tying the fuses together in groups of 8 or so. Throw 8 in the tubes and light the bunch. Dont put your head over any part. Stick the rest of prepped shells in a ready box. A ready box is designed so it cannot be left open. You lift up the lid, grab a bunch, the box has a string so that closes itself after opening
   
   Invest in zip ties and metal tape. Use this to tie your fuse together.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/3M-Foil-Tape-3381-Silver/dp/B00A7I5L86
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Aviditi-CT422E-Nylon-Length-Purple/dp/B00DY98M1I/ref=sr_1_3?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1525752899&sr=1-3&keywords=4%22+zip+ties
   
   I cant begin to tell you how much I love these fuse cutters. This tool changed my fuse cutting life. I spit on scissors now.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Edge-Utility-Cutter-9-37309/dp/B0037IX2BG/ref=sr_1_12?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1525752808&sr=1-12&keywords=handi+cut
   
   This fuse igniter will change your life. Lighters might as well be flint. Thats how next gen this is. Get some propane or MAPP
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-TS4000-Trigger-Start-Torch/dp/B00008ZA09/ref=sr_1_3?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1525753004&sr=8-3&keywords=berzomatic
   
   This headlamp makes flashlights a thing of the past and changes your life. Make sure you get one that doesnt have a third strap along the top. If youre not using it you can wear your headlamp on your neck and not lose it.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Black-Diamond-Spot-Headlamp-Octane/dp/B06W9HPY25/ref=sr_1_6_twc-13d22461-ce_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525753147&sr=8-6-acs&keywords=head+lamp&content_id=13d22461-ceea-426c-b620-9fe11db17513&ascsubtag=13d22461-ceea-426c-b620-9fe11db17513&tag=ospsearch-20&widget_name=expert_recommendation&content_provider=osp&ingress=search&content_type=story
   
   Also invest some money in some eye and ear protection. I can't tell you how many times I went to bed with a "reeee sound" in my ears, and have gotten pyro shit in my eyes.
   
   Build yourself some real racks if you're up for it. I just recently built myself some and it was a snap.
   
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-p7J4HV4Gak

Long time smoker, recent convert to concentrates here. My thoughts over the last few months:

You don't want to season a quartz nail, just heat it with a torch to clean it before you use it.

I like to always keep my banger clean. If you heat it up enough with a good-size torch, everything will burn off and it will look new again. No need to dunk in ice water or anything crazy, just torch it until it's crystal clear. Any residue will burn off and leave nothing but a fine layer of white ash. There is no reason to leave any icky buildup like a regular pipe, it will just taste bad later.

I initially bought a little butane creme-brulee torch. It sucks. Takes way too long to heat a banger. I grabbed my propane plumbing torch from the garage, and haven't looked back.

Unless you're dabbing one of those crazy-strong concentrates like distillate, you will have liquid residue left in the banger after you hit it. That's NOT the "good stuff", it's the other stuff that doesn't vaporize at THC- and terp-temps. Wipe it out with a q-tip after you take the hit, it saves you cleaning time later.

As far as getting it to the right temp, I had some trial and error. Too low, and it melts slowly and doesn't all vaporize. Too high, and it immediately turns black when you put it in the banger and tastes like crap. With metal nails, I can see getting it "red hot" and then timing the cool down, but with quartz is NEVER gets "red hot", at least with a brand-new banger. Quartz is insane... it just takes the heat with no complaints.

You could definitely learn your rig and torch as far as heating/timing, but I got tired of imprecision and bought one of these infrared thermometers. AWESOME PURCHASE, money well-spent. It only reads a high temp of 850 degrees or so, but you can monitor the cool-down, and as soon as it drops to 600F or so, you'll get a great dab. Plus, it has a built-in laser pointer! You can take a dab, and then lay on the couch and torment your cat! For only $17! But seriously, it makes for perfect dabs.

About the cleaning, I usually clean the banger right after the hit now (with the torch), after wiping with the q-tip. It's already half-hot, torching it makes it look brand-new, and who knows, maybe you'll be inspired to do another dab while it's still hot! (wash rinse repeat)

Have fun!

Thanks! Probably about 5-10 minutes per wedge with the heat constant moving. The timing depends but typically when I start seeing the chrome turn golden, you are pretty much about to enter purple/blue time. Just need to be mindful to not go too crazy since it'll just turn dark brown. Kind of like a steak, it's going to keep cooking after you are done so I get to about 85% and then let it cool.



Edit: A good tip I picked up prior to doing this to a few clubs was using a MAPP gas torch since it burns hottest:
https://www.amazon.com/WORTHINGTON-CYLINDER-332585-Pre-Filled-Cylinder/dp/B00826MGT2/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1480956857&sr=8-6&keywords=mapp+TORCH

I was dinking around on her here and that made me laugh out loud. I never really thought about this before. Honest. You just blew my mind...like a 18 year old taking their first philosophy class.

I'm a fire ecologist who grew up in the true middle of nowhere on a ranch. I love welding, but I'm not that good at it. My dad is. I also LOVE glassblowing. I learned how to do it during my masters and took to it like a duck in water. I'll never get to do it again as it's too expensive (like $80 an hour). I'm too much of a tight ass. I'm in my early 30's.

I pretty much light shit on fire for work and fun. I'm a complete pyro. One of my proudest achievements is a 10,000 acre prescribed burn I planned and was in charge of. This spring, my girlfriend bought me this for my birthday. I wanted it to light cedars on fire. Plus I can melt a beer can in seconds.

https://www.amazon.com/Red-Dragon-VT-3-30-Propane/dp/B00004Z2FQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498565976&sr=8-3&keywords=red+dragon+torch

My brother bought me a JATO rocket for the same birthday.

I don't think I could be more of pyro if I tried. I never realized this. No one ever pointed this out to me...

I just spent 5k getting 3 phase power into a shed my dad owns. Why? Because I bought a super nice and fancy plasma cutter at an auction. I didn't need it. My dad didn't need it. It was just cheap and awesome. Plus I wanted to be able to run a good welder in that shop.

My masters is literally about plant responses to lighting shit on fire after it got chainsawed.

There is a video of me starting a campfire with 5 gallons of white gas. It was zesty.

Random person...you just gave me an existential crisis. My name is probably on federal watchlists. Hello government worker! I never realized I was a pyro before.....

EDIT: OK, I went back and looked at the torch I bought, it says Propane only. I returned it and and got a Berzomatic TS8000

Ok, thanks for the replies!

I picked up this flux: Harris SSWF1 Stay Silv Brazing Flux, 1 lb. Jar, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002075B0U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_790RCb2K2T97F

^(And this torch head: BernzOmatic Basic Use UL2317 Brass Pencil Flame Propane Torch Head) ^(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008ZA0C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_N.0RCbY4860NK)

^(And did buy propane, but it was only like $6 for 2 camping cans so no big loss.)

I'll grab a can of MAPP.

I assume that because it's only 12 gauge wire and a 20 gauge "solder" it won't take long at all to heat up. As I understand it:

• Clean everything thoroughly. I'll use sandpaper and fine stainless steel brushes.
  
• Apply flux to wires Heat wire until red hot.
  
• Heat "solder" a bit and dip in flux
  
• Heat wires a bit more and touch solder to area.
  
  I've also seen people cut little bits of the soldering wire and place it on the target, then heat the wires until it flows. Is that incorrect?
  
  Thanks again!

Hey there, figured I'd give an update.

Replaced both our super old mercury thermostat and the thermocouple. Verified couple is giving ~22mv to the gas valve, which should be enough right?
I might be able to squeeze out a little more voltage by adjusting how much the end is in the pilot light.

I can hold down the red ignition button for 5sec, release and furnace kicks over and heats house to desired temp from thermostat. But once at temperature, it's not turning on by itself again (regularly at least).

So I think that's some progress from original post least. Kinda thinking the only thing left to replace is the actual gas valve right? Was looking at this Honeywell international valve.

So we know it's not a 24volt issue right? What's the stat?

i cannot express enough how easy it setup and make perfect
steaks, fish, chicken, pork, everything. digitally and consistently.
 
how the imbued flavors are amazing; every bite. every single bite.
 
i made ribeye and tri-tip steaks for 8 people this weekend.
half of them ate themselves, sick.
 
sauteed garlic, smokey aroma and grilled meat bring
out some base-desire in men.
 
for thick cut steaks, i set to 140degF for 2 hours.
i pull the bag and flame-kiss with a torch
 
i render the fat off with the torch and blacken the sides
and i crisp the top, in front of the eater, to their taste.
i use the rendered fat to crisp portabello mushrooms
as a garnish, also using the torch
 
the result? you become everyone's weekend-steak-hero
 
people fight each other over who gets to take home the spare bags of steak
 
for the price of a steakhouse dinner, i fed all my friends, with superior product.
 
it does require the commitment to time and prepping the steaks.
everyone i take on this steak-journey, never goes back.

I can't see your torch, but I'd guess it is too small. I've been dicking around and I've had luck with this one:
Mag-Torch MT245C MAPP/Propane Heavy Duty Pencil Flame Burner Torch Tip
http://amzn.com/B000646QRG

Lowes/Home Depot will not carry fire bricks in store. Call a BRICK store. Google your cities name and "brick supply" and call them up. About 2.50 per brick, and prob 10 bucks in fire clay if your setup will require it.

I had good luck with my paint can forge made from refractory cement. Not how it is meant to be used, but worked ok. Only used it for a month, so no idea on longevity...

I'm working on something a bit bigger right now...

I use one of these. It's very easy to build. Once you have it set up it is so cheap to carbonate all year long. A 5 or 10 lb tank refills for under $20. My 5 lb lasts me all year. I refill my tank at Presto-O-Sales, or you can exchange your tank at Triboro Beverage. I highly recommend this option.

Edit: This is the co2 regulator I purchased. It's easy to use and you can set the psi however you like. I ordered a different one when I started which I returned because it wouldn't let me set the psi as high as I wanted. Also, If I had the choice again I'd probably go with a 10 lb. tank. They're really not much larger physically, and they really don't charge much more to refill than the 5 lb. However, if you're interested in doing the tank exchange at Triboro Beverage, I believe they only do 5 lb. tanks.

It's not a bad deal if you need the sheet and rack as well. Provided those two pieces are of a quality that would rival something for close to $100 in the stores.

If you don't need those things then it's just a prettier version of the heat shrink torch from Bernz. The BZ4500HS is a torch that throws a wider flame used to heat shrink vinyl and is available from Amazon for $50. Though it's definitely not as pretty as the all white Apple-esque version from Sansaire.

I don't think anyone that already has a Bernz soldering torch would benefit enough to warrant buying this. Though if you don't have a torch at all yet, it might be a better option.

That being said I doubt it fits the Searzall, though I don't know if it's still necessary when using the wider flame from the BZ4500HS.

The weed burner is probably your best bet for a big flame, if you need a smaller torch then use a torch that's for soldering, not welding. Bernzomatic makes a good selection of these, look at their heat-shrink torches or their other broad-flame torches. Those sound like exactly what you want. Even their plumbing torches would probably work. You can experiment with blocking some of the air holes if you want a flame with more red in it. Also, you want to use a cooler burning gas, like propane (instead of mapp or acetylene). If you need to hold the flame on aluminum for more than 30 seconds fill the flashlight with water.

For example;
https://www.amazon.com/BernzOmatic-361472-BZ4500HS-Shrink-Torch/dp/B00834RCLU

https://www.amazon.com/BernzoMatic-JT680-361473-Jumbo-Flame/dp/B00008ZA0D

If you get the small propane torch, make sure to get the "clicker" kind that automatically light. This is the one I use.

It is SO nice to just click the button and shove the flame into the smoker and three seconds later it's lit perfectly.

http://www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-TS4000-Trigger-Start-Torch/dp/B00008ZA09/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1395417266&sr=1-1&keywords=propane+torch

So you've selected some intense elbow grease as the trade off. That's honestly my preferred route. What I suggest in that case, is to get a weedeater or a mower and take the whole yard down as low as you can get it. Probably not all in one pass. Then I would dispose of as much material as possible via a green waste bin. Then you have a couple options. You can either keep cutting it back, and it will eventually end up kinda-sorta lawn-ish after enough consistent cuttings. Second option is to "sheet" the area with cardboard and some weights. Bricks, rocks, paint cans, whatever is handy. If you let that sit a week or two, it will mostly shade out the plants, they'll wilt, and die. Third option is to solarize the area. You get some rolls of painter's plastic, and essentially plastic wrap the entire ground like it's a casserole dish of leftovers. The idea there is that the plastic creates a greenhouse effect and cooks off all of the plants underneath.

Regardless of your choice, you'll probably still have some pretty serious grow-back from whatever roots survive, and any dormant seeds that sprout after the fact. You can then either repeat the process later, which will produce fewer and fewer survivors, or you can just cut and/or hand pull whatever manages to return.

I strongly advise against the use of any herbicides like Roundup, as the chemicals in them do a lot of damage to the ecosystem beyond your yard. It's pretty selfish and petty to broadly apply such damaging chemicals over some inconvenient-at-worst weeds in a backyard.

Edit: As an alternative to spraying, a solution for the touch up work after using one of the above methods, is to use a propane torch (example). You can get them at home improvement stores, and they do a pretty decent job of toasting weeds into submission. Just read the directions thoroughly, watch some youtube videos about how to do it, and have a hose on standby in case things get exciting.

unlimited budget? challenge accepted:

backup vitaprep base, multiple backup vitaprep tops. another robot coupe, with the extended housing and specialty blades. extra robot coupe blades. extra circulator or two. whatever size the professional kitchen aid mixers are these days - one of them, with all the gadgets and gizmos. depending on the size of the gear you have, large and small immersion blenders.

more pans. a few of something like these that will stay flat for searing fish. more pots. more plates. more plastic squeeze bottles. one or two of these. if you're also in charge of glasses and silver, more of that. more china caps. more chinoises.

more cambros. more lids. more 1/9,1/6, and 1/3 pans - deep and shallow, with enough false bottoms for all sizes to cover 25% of the pans. more pan spacers for the service coolers. more sheet trays. more 1/2 sheet trays - perforated and non perforated. more hotel and 1/2 hotel pans - 2, 4, and 6 inch; perforated and non perforated. more ladles, particularly 2oz and 4oz. more cutting boards. more buss tubs. more lexans, both perforated and non perforated. lids for those lexans.

if a tilt skillet can be a thing, one (or more) of them. or a steam jacket kettle. just something you can conveniently roll stocks in. garbage disposals in the dish pit. couple of blowtorches.

butcher's twine, cheesecloth, blue (or whatever color you choose) tape, sharpies, and pens - enough that finding any one of those items shouldn't be an issue. a case of bic lighters to keep in the office. more clipboards, because they're fucking useful.

A torch is better for this because a soldering iron concentrates the heat in a very very small area. And since metal is so conductive and has a high thermal mass, it looses heat faster than you can apply it with a soldering iron, so it will never get hot enough to actually solder. Flux comes in a paste (or sometimes liquid) and is a weak acid that etches the metal to clean and roughen the surface so the solder wets to the metal and bonds better. It also helps keep air out of the connection to prevent oxidation while you're soldering, which would weaken the joint.

The steps would be to clean each piece, position or clamp them together, apply a good amount of flux, heat it all up with the torch, then touch the solder to the hot metal so that it melts on. If you need to apply heat directly to the solder (ie, the solder doesn't melt on its own when it touches the metal) then your metal isn't hot enough and it will make a cold solder connection that will be weak, or completely non-existent if it's too cold. It may look like it joined things, but the smallest bit of force (even from just normal handling) would break the joint and you would need to start all over by first cleaning off all the solder, then cleaning the metal, applying flux, and trying again.

Here's the torch I use:

Torch

Fuel

Optional extension hose so you don't have to hold the cylinder the whole time

Solder and flux. This kit comes with some emery cloth to clean the metal a bit before soldering.


EDIT: Here's a video about soldering copper pipe. Same process for small sheet metal parts.

Good hardware store might have one, any pluming supply store, online .

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Taco-334-3-Taco-Cast-Iron-Pressure-Reducing-Valve-Dual-Control-Sweat

learn how to solder pipe. lots of Utubes out there, you don't need a fancy rig for homeowner stuff, this is good enough for homeowners.

https://www.amazon.com/BernzOmatic-Basic-UL2317-Pencil-Propane/dp/B00008ZA0C/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1481992375&sr=8-6&keywords=propane+flame+torch

Basically clean the fitting with a fitting cleaning brush, clean the pipe with plumber sandcloth, flux the inside of the fitting, the outside of the pipe, assemble, apply heat , when the flux stops boiling apply the solder to the opposite side of the heat and let it run around.

Don't over heat the fitting if the flux turns black you got it to hot, I usually move the flame around a little when heating the fitting.

If making up adapters solder them to the pipe ( short piece ) before screwing them to the valve.

Buy some extra pipe and fittings and practice, ells are pretty inexpensive, practice on them.

This one is the one I'm fond of, but it's definitely a lot more money: https://www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-ST250-Micro-Torch-Kit/dp/B0000CBJBQ/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1479130801&sr=8-7&keywords=Micro+Torch

Also, I have no idea what that video is about, and if I saw a guy filming and talking to himself like that in public I would probably call security.

This Taprite is what I use. Never had any issues at all. I like the nice knob so I don't have to use a screwdriver to increase or decrease the pressure. Just be very careful not to drop these things in any way. They are very delicate.

While those will certainly work I'd suggest getting a better torch setup. Something like this and thise. I've went through a 1 lb tank (slightly bigger than what I linked) since I started with RBA's around 6 months ago, I can't imagine how much butane I would have went through in that time.

propane and butane and the mixture of the two gasses have the exact same combustion temperature with air.

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/flame-temperatures-gases-d_422.html

the combustion of propane and butane is an oxidation reaction, thus a more complete oxidation to CO2 is actually a good thing. neither propane or butane is more susceptible to incomplete oxidation than the other.

properly functioning propane and butane torches producing ideal burns present no danger of carbon monoxide poisoning.

http://www.propane101.com/carbonmonoxideandpropane.htm

as long as sufficient oxygen is present (the 21% present in the atmosphere is more than sufficient) both propane and butane are safe to use.

on a side note, a propane torch like the one linked below is much better built and thus safer to use than the crème brûlée butane torches most people use.

http://www.amazon.com/BernzOmatic-Basic-UL2317-Pencil-Propane/dp/B00008ZA0C/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1451884928&sr=8-7&keywords=bernzomatic+propane

I use something like these two products. It makes it nicer to use a big tank like that.

Extension hose

Hose/Torch combo

I have heard it is slightly better than the standard plumbing torches.

I already have a Bernzomatic 8000 for soldering, so I don't think I would buy another torch. I don't think the extra expense of the Sansaire would be worth it to me. People suggested the Sansaire was probably just a repainted Bernzomatic Heat Shrink Torch, which is much cheaper. The branding+paint on the sansaire look like a $80 mark up.

The downside of the Heat Shrink Torch/Sansaire is that if you want to get a Searzall down the road, the thing is designed only to fit the 4000/8000 models.

The BZ4500HS is $67 on amazon I got one and like it. I'm also interested in trying one of those weed burning torches you hook up to a propane tank, for around $20-30 you can find them at places like Harbor Freight

The only clear advantage I can see over using just the TS4000/8000 alone would be that you could hold the torch at a more comfortable angle. But my solution for that is an extension hose:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-WH0159-Universal-Torch-Extension-Hose-361542/202539579?keyword=extension+hose+bernzomatic&semanticToken=21300000011_20190716120854509441_lx7j+21300000011+%3E++cnn%3A%7B0%3A0%7D+cnr%3A%7B7%3A1%7D+cnb%3A%7B0%3A0%7D+st%3A%7Bextension+hose+bernzomatic%7D%3Ast+oos%3A%7B0%3A1%7D+br%3A%7Bbernzomatic%7D%3Abr+pt%3A%7Bhose%7D%3Apt+rt%3A%7Bextension%7D%3Art+dln%3A%7B4295173221%7D+qu%3A%7Bextension+hose+bernzomatic%7D%3Aqu

It's possible that it spreads the flame a bit and might make searing quicker than the torch alone. Bernzomatic does make flame spreaders, but unfortunately they don't fit the TS4000/8000 for some reason:

https://www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-Stainless-Steel-Flame-Spreader/dp/B0000DINGL/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1IJTF7YG1A5FK&keywords=torch+spreader&qid=1563293102&s=gateway&sprefix=torch+sprea%2Caps%2C150&sr=8-2

The Searzall is great for melting hard to melt cheese on your sous vide burgers before they overcook (and quickly toasting your buttered buns too), but it is too slow to torch steaks.

you are overkilling it for that little furnace. You could just use a propane tank and burner from home depot like in that imgur album. You dont need to go crazy with it if that small. you will focus the heat on the little crucible and the wool will hold in the heat. so you wont need to make a burner or use a 20lb tank to melt an oz or two of metal. you could buy a 15.00 bernzomatic setup and start on this right away.

​

also - maybe look into spin casting (centrifugal casting) as that's the right method for casting precious metals into smaller shapes like a ring. its kinda different and comes with its own way of doing things that means different PPE than typical metal casting.

I have a bernzomatic ts4000 that can be used for mapp or propane. Has a decent sized swirl tip on it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00008ZA09?cache=1e7ae5e33b54b847bd2ca8af21498496&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1405599047&sr=8-1

Sorry about the huge link. I'm on my phone.

I also have an extension hose I found at home depot for $17. I love that thing.

Not in time for this use, but for the next time around consider this: http://www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-BZ4500HS-Electricians-Shrink-Torch/dp/B00834RCLU. I purchased one the other week and it's exactly what I needed to take things to the next level. Used to use broiler, grill, or hot pan, but this torch is the perfect tool for anything smaller than a roast.

It was pretty simple. Here's what I used:

• [Blow torch $50] (http://smile.amazon.com/Hot-Max-500G-Propane-Torch/dp/B00282LP34?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage)
  
  
• [Tung oil $60/gallon] (http://smile.amazon.com/Real-Milk-Paint-Pure-Tung/dp/B007RO1PJC?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage)
  
  
  A little pricey for the torch, but it's great for getting rid of weeds/killing sod. And I use it to light my pizza oven and fire pit quickly.

I have this torch and use MAPP fuel. I would recommend:

• Pat all of the surface dry; as dry as you can get it,
  
• Brush a thin layer of butter to cover the entire surface (for bonus points, throw some goodies into the butter (shallots, garlic, thyme, etc.) while melting it),
  
• Keep the flame moving at all times,
  
• Hold the flame such that the very tip is touching the surface of the food,
  
• Do multiple passes, instead of trying to get it dark the first time you visit a spot.

Have you thought about buying the Atlas Mini burner and then just buying some fire brick and build something?

I'm doing stock removal, so a basic 2 brick forge and a larger pencil torch get's things hot enough for me, but I kinda regret not buying a better burner. Here is the burner I'm using:

https://www.amazon.com/Mag-Torch-MT245C-Propane-Pencil-Burner/dp/B000646QRG

I would have been much better off buying the Atlas Mini burner and adding that to my homemade forge:

https://usaknifemaker.com/atlas-small-burner.html

Here's a great tutorial I used to build my two brick forge:

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/virtual-bbq-2-brick-forge-wip.920120/

I thought the same thing re: how the heck did they find me my first year planting pumpkins/squash, ever. They're moths and they're awful! My injections of pyrethrin saved my plant, and I amputated an unlucky vine that just wasn't going to make it, but it looks like it might put on fruit...not sure if it's edible now, though.


I'm going to be planning on tilling up the ground this winter, then using about 10 gallons of propane through a 500,000 BTU torch - https://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-Electric-KH825-01-Inferno-Torch/dp/B00BJQUUHC/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=500000+btu+torch&link_code=qs&qid=1566252468&s=gateway&sourceid=Mozilla-search&sr=8-2 is what I use - to roast the soil both before and after tilling.


Next year, I'm going to put row covers on and a ground cover mulch. I'll also be using a gratuitous amount of spinosad, neem, and possibly BT in addition to topical pyrethroids and insecticidal soap. I probably will avoid Sevin in the future.


I plan to heat the soil surface up to above boiling and keep it there for a good 15-20 seconds. No survivors. Bwahahahahahahahahaha.

You're using one of those "kitchen" torches aren't you? They're garbage. Get a real torch and it'll be easy as can be.

http://www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-TS4000-Trigger-Start-Torch/dp/B00008ZA09

Seriously. It's pretty much impossible to use those kitchen torches for anything beyond lighting candles.

[TurboTorch] (https://www.amazon.com/TurboTorch-0386-0007-Torch-Swirl-MAP-Pro/dp/B000NO56DE) if you want to hang with the big boys. It's a great torch if sweating copper is part of your job, for a homeowner might be a bit spendy.

IDK but I found this tank on Amazon. Maybe there's a better one.

Oxygen tank

Next I'll figure out how I can get an oxygen tank filled locally and then find a tube and mask.

I purchased the BernzOmatic 361472 BZ4500HS Heat Shrink Torch its great it disperses the flame so you don't get that unpleasant taste. For the torch you have you can purchase the tip from eBay and just screw it on your TS8000, its on eBay and called WORTHINGTON Torch Tip,Propane/MAPP,Use with 4NE84

Kind of off-topic, but if you end up needing a kitchen torch regularly, I'd suggest upgrading to something like this.

It'll run for what seems forever on a canister of propane camp fuel. Propane is a lot cheaper than butane as well.

Plus, it's a multitasker all around the house. I can go from finishing a sous vide steak to loosening the lug nuts on my car's tires. It has also replaced all the flaky lighters in my house.

If you don't want to use toxic chemicals, try this bad boy for cookin' them to the ground: Hot Max. Makes weeding actually fun! Then, to keep them from coming back, Sprinkle some of this around: corn gluten. Completely non-toxic, prevents any seeds from sprouting (not just weeds so be careful if seeding), and lasts for several years.

Get one with a click on and off button. But yeah this.

I own this: http://www.amazon.com/Mag-Torch-MT200C-Propane-Pencil-Burner/dp/B000692UYE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420669575&sr=8-2&keywords=propane+torch

Would suggest something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Electric-Propane-Push-button-electric-starter/dp/B007R84M7A/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1420669575&sr=8-5&keywords=propane+torch

Propane and natural gas burners are not compatible. Make sure whatever your source of fuel matches the burner you buy.

These are good for raku temperatures and beyond.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NXASIC

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00282LP34

Sorry just a little hand torch like this Bernzomatic TS4000 Trigger Start Torch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008ZA09/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kY-nzb7B0874G

it will turn it to Ash then it will wipe off.

I like my orca torch very much... I upgraded from using a basic propane torch attachment (https://www.amazon.com/BernzOmatic-Basic-UL2317-Pencil-Propane/dp/B00008ZA0C/) on a regular small green propane tank.

Quick and simple guide: http://www.popsci.com/diy/article/2012-06/how-make-your-own-home-carbonation-system

Carbonation cap: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V334SME/

Hose and quick disconnect: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064OI77Y/

Pressure regulator: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UZUJ22/

For the tank, contact a local welding shop and ask them to price a pure CO2 cylinder. Tell them what it's for if they ask about grade. Make sure you find out cylinder cost as well as refill cost. I could have gotten a cheaper cylinder on Amazon apparently, but I didn't overpay by much. Mine's a 20 pound, but you can get 5 and 10 as well.

Ribeye. First I blowtorch it (with MAP propane). Then I put it in the steam oven at 130F for an hour or two. Then I blowtorch it a bit more, for good measure, and melt a little butter on it.

Screw that. If you really want to have fun use one of these. Burn it up.

It's a pretty damn good deal considering that those wimpy Bernzomatic torches sell for $50 on Amazon.

Don't you think that fire would be a more effective and quicker option than the one you are using?

I've done cast iron on an 1800W induction top. I can get that thing in the 600 range, if my IR thermometer is to be believed.

I'm not talking about a plumber's torch like the TS8000. I'm talking about a "weed burner".

One like this https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Max-500G-Propane-Torch/dp/B00282LP34/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=weed+burner&qid=1569026185&s=gateway&sr=8-7

Edit: I want to say that these flamethrowers are incredibly powerful and loud. They sear a steak in 5-10 seconds per side. They're also so loud, that it's kinda awkward to use. I'm just waiting for the day for one of my neighbors to come over and ask me WTF I'm doing and why am I running a jet engine in my back yard.

I did this before laying sod, it worked pretty well. First, I would recommend spraying the whole yard with roundup and waiting a week or two. This will kill off a good majority of everything you have, allow it to dry, and make it easier to burn. You could skip this step, but it's going to be much more difficult to burn everything if it's wet. Just remember that you have to wait a minimum of 3 days after applying roundup to re-seed.
Also, keep in mind that this method will not kill seeds and rhizomes that are buried in the ground. You're going to want a torch like this.

I’m using

Hot Max 500G Big Max 500,000 BTU... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00282LP34?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

will pair it with a well insulated metal trashcan, one or two layers of ceramic blanket with satanite, and fire bricks at the bottom. Could it get as high as 2300 F? I’d rather not buy a higher range temperature gun if I don’t need to. Thanks for the help.

I'm interested in building one of these. About how long does one of these cans last in one of these?

Also, would one of the basic use BernzOmatic Basic Use Pencil Flame Propane Torch Head work with one of these, or does it need to be one of the higher-intensity torches?

So you don't need a concealed carry permit for a flamethrower?

Cool.

This one is a half million BTU per hour. Propane, not jellied gasoline. I guess I can't have everything.

Wait. One of the recommended uses is "starting charcoal". I think I'm gonna need a video camera, too.

Would a torch like this work? or this one?

Here is one from Amazon

I probably wouldn't buy one on amazon as you can probably get them cheaper from a welding store near you.

Also to get them filled typically they just do exchanges at a welding supply, switching out your cylinder for a full one. Also why you should check your welding store first, to make sure they carry oxygen tanks that size.

For reference, where I am at least a full T sized cylinder (the very large welding cylinders) only cost $80 for the oxygen. For those large ones, you don't actually buy the cylinder and you rent them, typically for a dollar or so a day.

Well you could save yourself $2900 and just house one of these in a nerf gun rifle with a custom paint job...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00282LP34/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp_2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3341940462&pd_rd_wg=OpZHd&pf_rd_r=WWRMWNH8J98VB371Y7NR&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00282LP34&pd_rd_w=oO6q7&pf_rd_i=Propane+torch&pd_rd_r=bf89caa9-5455-445f-9334-3f3e141728f1&ie=UTF8&qid=1518034992&sr=2

Flamethrower and some good dry wood splits and you'll be cruisin.

I have this kit, twice, with the regulator, is it enough? Or should I follow your recommendation anyway?

But thank you very much for your advice

Edit: forgot to link the kit

Here you go

Here is a

• Before
  
  
• During
  
  
• And After
  
  
  
  All of that I did with:
  
  
• this sander
  
  
• Gradually working up to this 320 grit sanding Disc
  
  
• This blowtorch gave it the blue steel finish, once it was the color i wanted i quenched it in oil
  
  
  Let me know if you have any questions, I definitely wouldn't oil quench your stainless putter, but that's the finish mine originally had!

I would use something like this http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-VR8200A2132-International-Valve/dp/B00ECV2W90.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00008ZA09?pc_redir=1397090166&robot_redir=1

That's what I have. I've used a Newport torch as well which was nice for how small it was but it constantly needed to be refilled and took much longer to heat up my nail

Yes, you can and many do. MAPP, butane or propane can work. The flame needs to be managed: spreading it to even out the burn and insuring complete combustion to avoid off-tastes. This little device is an effective but pricey way to do that, others just use an old fashioned flame spreader.

If I wanted to make a propane forge could I use this propane head ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00008ZA0C/ref=pd_aw_sbs_2?pi=SL500_SS115&simLd=1 ) and just attach it to the side of the forge or do I need something like a trigger start torch ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00008ZA09/ref=pd_aw_sbs_3?pi=SY115&simLd=1 )?

I know this is a dumb question but I'm on a budget for my starter setup

Usually dab rigs are what you want in my experience. Here is a list of what you'll need.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LASWSVO/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1486671400&sr=8-10&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dab+rig

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M0QMJQX/ref=pd_aw_fbt_236_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2FT6NB38AXF8FZ6H73AT

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004HGFTD6/ref=pd_aw_fbt_469_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=09A0FDYGXMX7M93NYKRV

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005FN0ZCK/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1486671287&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dab+rig&dpPl=1&dpID=41INFxpaMcL&ref=plSrch

I got a 2-pack of propane tanks as well as a torch tip for under $20 total. Burns hotter and will last much longer. You can get a self-igniting tip if you prefer for only a couple dollars more.

The instruction manual for the Sansaire Searing Kit confirms that it is simply a model BZ4500HS torch with a new paint job. http://www.bernzomatic.com/content/uploads/2015/08/Sansaire-Searing-Kit-Manual.pdf

The BZ4500HS torch is available for $70 on Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00834RCLU/ Couple it with a sheet pan and cooling rack that you likely already own and you're set.

This kit has served me well. I wouldn't use it all day every day, but I've wired up a few cars and panels with it.

Just a quick amazon search: torch. You want the butane refillable ones. Even the cheap ones will work but don't get the tiny cigarette ones. Harbor Freight (if available in your area) has a cheap one that's around $10.

If you want a torch that will last you for years.
http://www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-TS4000-Trigger-Start-Torch/dp/B00008ZA09

http://www.amazon.com/Worthington-MAP-Pro-Cylinder-14-1-oz-Yellow/dp/B00826MGT2/ref=pd_sim_469_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=41AuM2ahO7L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1NKPJB1K45ZKEDB48YNM

https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Max-500G-Propane-Torch/dp/B00282LP34

Hooks up to a propane tank and burns at 500,000 btu.

Same but I use this for the Smokey Joe, and this for the big fires.

https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Max-500G-Propane-Torch/dp/B00282LP34/ref=pd_sim_469_14?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00282LP34&pd_rd_r=DMADQDKGYX3HFY7SJ2VT&pd_rd_w=tcTSD&pd_rd_wg=CRfhJ&psc=1&refRID=DMADQDKGYX3HFY7SJ2VT

Right fucking here, boss.

$48 Taprite T742HP

red dragon

Use a propane torch. Before herbicides it was standard.

You have to wet it down first, to 'boil' the roots.

propane torch

https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Max-500G-Propane-Torch/dp/B00282LP34/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542209334&sr=8-1&keywords=roofing+torch&dpID=3103D4nMAQL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

​

With

​

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMICFQ4/ref=sxts_kp_tr_2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=8778bc68-27e7-403f-8460-de48b6e788fb&pd_rd_wg=NYalm&pf_rd_r=7KV1MT8QCVRF9GMFY594&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00DMICFQ4&pd_rd_w=5b3jF&pf_rd_i=propane&pd_rd_r=4013d02b-f02a-427d-b777-440aa0d49392&ie=UTF8&qid=1542209378&sr=2

This with plastic https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Max-500G-Propane-Torch/dp/B00282LP34/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1542335405&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=roofing+torch&dpPl=1&dpID=3103D4nMAQL&ref=plSrch

Propane Torch.

https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Max-500G-Propane-Torch/dp/B00282LP34/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537380675&sr=8-1&keywords=driveway+cleaning+propane

brass pencil flame torch + propane tank might be cheaper than a creme brulee torch + you can do dabs with it

Here is the desktop version of your link

I use this with a bottle of MAPP for my table-torch. Have another TS4000 for portable.

Got it covered.

THIS is very similar, if not identical to, the torch head I used.

http://www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-TS4000-Trigger-Start-Torch/dp/B00008ZA09/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1374969761&sr=1-1&keywords=bernzomatic

http://www.amazon.com/Red-Dragon-VT-3-30-Propane/dp/B00004Z2FQ/

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004Z2FQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1462376270&sr=1-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=Dragon+torch&dpPl=1&dpID=313Db7iqdWL&ref=plSrch

I used map for my first couple but just upgraded to a weed burner - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00282LP34

Wait a second...
http://astore.amazon.com/wwwpropanefla-20/detail/B00004Z2FQ

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00282LP34/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1&pldnSite=1

So you take your nail which is usually made of titanium or quartz. You torch that bitch until it is hot, then you take your concentrate material and vaporize it on the hot surface. Some nails require and extra piece of glass called a dome to reduce the airflow around the nail when you dab it. Male female is pretty self explanatory, the piece you have in the picture here is male. The joint on that is designed to go inside of something else, not unlike a penis ;) the vast majority of weed smoking bongs are female.

Edit:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000692UYE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1427394577&sr=8-1&keywords=bernzo&dpPl=1&dpID=31LKTYYr2uL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

why would you pay that much for a butane torch?

http://www.amazon.com/Iwatani-Torch-Burner-Professional-Cb-tc-pro/dp/B0027HO3XO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398663434&sr=8-1&keywords=iwatani

or if you wanted to use a propane fuel tank

http://www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-TS4000-Trigger-Start-Torch/dp/B00008ZA09/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398663495&sr=8-1&keywords=propane+torch

Essentially the same thing, no paperwork required

For the CO2 tank, decide what size you'll want. The most-common sizes are 5, 10, and 20LB; larger tanks are more expensive but are generally much cheaper to refill. Depending on the size, you're probably looking at $50 - $130.

For a regulator, Taprite is generally well-regarded. My main recommendation is to get something that doesn't require a screwdriver or wrench to change the pressure.

You'll also need a line to get to the bottle-cap. If you just need one, buying a pre-built assembly is probably cheaper than getting the parts.

And the cap /u/BretBeermann linked works on standard 2L soda bottles, so save a few of them to reuse.

By the way, SeriousEats did an article on building a DIY carbonation rig a few years ago. Probably worth a read.

I have pictures of this very test here: https://imgur.com/a/647Im

The average house fire is 1,100 F / 593 C. We used this blowtorch, which reaches temps of at least 1,200 F because we used it to melt aluminum in the video on our site.

will that suffice? A video might take me a few days since we weren't filming when we did this test

I can't seem to find this conclusively anywhere aside from one lone Amazon review. If I want individualized CO2 control for THREE taps (and delay the nitro hookup for now), can I hook up a Taprite double regulator to a single somehow? Or is this the more correct option: https://www.kegerator.com/taprite-three-product-secondary-co2-regulator/T1683ST.html

Edit: Seems I would use the above three-way regulator in-line with a standard one-body dual-gauge regulator like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Taprite-T742HP-Primary-Pressure-Regulator/dp/B002UZUJ22


Also just a note, this seems like a steal: http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/towers/triplefaucet/14-tall-polished-stainless-steel-draft-tower-perlick-630ss-faucts.html

Triple faucet tower with Perlick 630ss for only $228. I don't seem to come close to that anywhere else.

Actually I do have a flamethrower

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00282LP34/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_mOHaub1087HP0

so that could work. But I would most certainly die in the attempt! Horribly.

I built one of these for my first forge last year (except with kaowool for the insulation rather than refractory cement), and I had the same problem. I swapped out the small burner that came with the propane (I think it was the same model you have) for this torch, and have since been able to consistently get steel up to an orange heat. It was hot enough for me to make a bunch of knives, tongs, spearheads, and other small things.

I also had to buy a 25# propane tank, though, as the 1lb tank would get cold and lose pressure (which meant reduced heat) after about 20 minutes.

pffft... flamethrower my ass; https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Max-500G-Propane-Torch/dp/B00282LP34

a ten dollar supersoaker and five bucks worth of gas is closer to a flamethrower than the 500 dollar trinket musk is selling here...

Unless they're going to make propane torches illegal that "flamethrower" is going to sell like hotcakes to every idiot with 500 dollars to burn...