Reddit mentions: The best gear oils

I would say that for $1,600 this would be a good Jeep to buy. Take into account that your shipping cost for parts will be way more expensive than what I would pay here in the US, but those are all easy/inexpensive fixes.

The sensors are very easy to change yourself, they are both easy to get to. The temp sensor is on the front, heres one.

The oil pressure sensor is a common issue. Get one from a dealer if possible, the aftermarket ones tend to die fairly quickly, here's an OEM one from Jeep.

For the front axles I would first try changing out the differential fluid. You'll need about 2 quarts of 80w 90 gear oil. You don't have to buy a gasket, as you can use RTV gasket maker as your gasket. I would suggest doing both differentials so get double of both gear oil and gasket maker. Inspect the gears inside the differentials while you have the covers off and spray them out with brakleen to clean them up a bit before adding the new oil.

The exhaust for free is great. Have someone like a trusted mechanic weld it on for you.

The jeep seems like a great buy, especially for $1600. I would buy this asap. Is 350.000 ISK a lot of money in Iceland? $1600 in the US is less than 1 month's salary.

If gas is very expensive in Iceland, which I'm sure it is, then think about that. I don't know what kilometers are, I use miles per gallon and my XJ gets about 15-17 miles per gallon of gas. Something to think about.

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Slow and smooth when letting the clutch out. Also, Allow the RPMs to drop to avoid the jerking/jolting. Pretty much treat it Zohan. Make it silky smooth

Being a 2017, i'd assume you're still in the break in period (or around there), which doesn't help matters.

I'd recommend the removal of the clutch spring as well to provide more driver feedback, making things that much easier.

If none of that helps.... maybe try a different oil like Motul 300 or Red Line MT-90

Thanks all for replying!

As far as I can tell, the shifter does not drain to the transmission itself, at least not in my car.

I ended up removing the reverse light switch with an adjustable wrench. I'd guess it's about 20 mm. The switch is about level with the fill plug, only closer to the front of the car.

Once you have the switch loose, empty out the old oil from the drain plug. Loosen it with a 1/2 in square recess. Clean off any metal shavings caught in the plug's magnet and tighten it back on after the oil is out. Don't be a gorilla about torquing anything down. Before fully removing the reverse switch, make note of the two wires and disconnect them.

I used a hand pump to add the gear oil, but you could probably feed a long hose above to the engine and fill using a funnel. I added 2 quarts of Red Line MT-90 (75W-90), which is a touch under how much the manual calls for (2 liters). Clean the area after you're done, and dispose of the junk oil responsibly.

So, the car is back on the road again, at least until I try to fix (break) anything else. There's a bit less transmission noise now, and shifting is slightly smoother. The biggest difference is the transmission tunnel temperature. Before, the shift lever and ash tray area would get almost too hot to touch. Everything runs much cooler now, so I'm happy!

Hope this helps anyone that may search through here in the future!

So when I discovered pb blaster, it was amazing. Stuff worked so much better than the other products I used. Then I got into the trades and a couple of the old timers swore by a product called Aero Kroil. I refuse to use anything else now. Literally works 20x better than pb blaster. Stuff is amazing. I have never had it fail to break anything loose.

http://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-aerosol-AEROKROIL/dp/B000F09CEA

Also they make Sili Kroil which adds a silicon type lubricant, which works 10,000 times better than WD40 for lubricating.

http://www.amazon.com/SiliKroil-Penetrating-Solvent-aerosol-SILIKROIL/dp/B0003041WK

I switched the fluid mostly because I had problems with it grinding when I shifted into 4th and 5th at higher RPMs and I wanted to see if it would improve my gas mileages. This may be considered bad shifting, but I liked to quickly get up to speed through 1st and 2nd and then skip to 5th for cruising. The VW's mechanics seemed perplexed that I would skip 3rd and 4th and they said the linkage was normal.

I wanted to put GM's synchromesh in it, because I've had good luck with it in my last two 5 speeds but my mechanic (non-VW) refused to put anything but stock spec fluid. I believe this is what we settled on. It must of been a good choice because it's still in there after 100K more miles.

For oil start with a 15w40 oil. I use 4quarts of that and 1 quart of high mileage oil in my 73 Chevy.

For the manual trans is it a 3 speed manual or 4 speed? I believe it called for gear oil, like a 90weight or so. If its not been rebuilt start with a GL4 gear oil. Pennzoil, Valvoline, etc... I think still make a GL4 manual trans gear oil. Don't use synthetic or GL5. Here is a cheap one for example that some have used in older manual trans.
https://www.amazon.com/Sta-Lube-SL24239-GL-4-Multi-Purpose-Hypoid/dp/B000M8RYMC/


But yea the rest looks good. Clean it up and add new fluids. Be careful when driving as many brake seals/lines will rot with age. So inspect/replace them as needed.

Cool! Thanks for the help identifying it. I had suspicions that it also might be an LSD.

> I'd go with 75w140 and a friction modifier and call it good

That's exactly what I did. Specifically, I used Royal Purple 75W-140 Max Gear Oil.

So then the fluids are the same?

I'm having trouble understanding the difference between this and this.

Is this just marketing from the company?


Yeah, I plan on buying these fluids myself in the future and having the mechanic do it, I just wanted to be sure I didn't put something where it didn't belong.

Thanks for the help, man. Solid advice as usual :)

Life expectancy is pretty limitless, what matters is how the transmission was maintained and used. Fluid changed at proper intervals, proper rev matching and use of the clutch.

Before you drop the transmission, try Liqui Moly, which has MoS2 (Molybdenum disulfide), mixed in with fresh transmission fluid. MoS2 completely resolved my major 2nd gear grind problems in the ZF transmission in my E36 M3.

https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-2019-Anti-Friction-Lubricant/dp/B00CPL8UPY
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide

You really have nothing to lose at this point; changing fluid is cheap and easy to do. Who knows, it might fix your problem. Do note, that it took about ~50 miles for my grinding to resolve itself after swapping the fluid and adding the MoS2.

> I could break the bead again, put some ether (is that what people use?) in, and light it. I'd really prefer not to go that route, seems pretty risky

I'm REALLY not recommending it but I tried it for laughs on some shitty truck tires my son asked me to help him mount.

It worked. If you do this, AND I AM NOT TAKING ANY RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOU BLOWING YOUR FUCKING FACE OFF make sure you're ready to put some air in right away because as it cools off it will suck a vacuum and break the bead again.

Also- (instead of ether) try heating the tire up. It WILL make a difference. You're doing all the right stuff. Ru-Glyde is the tire lube you should get at your local NAPA auto parts store.

On my NB2 with the Tochigi Fuji Super LSD it made a bit of noise when i got it. Upon removing the drain plug i found two of these tabs. I drained the old fluid and replaced it with this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ONZXPK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it quieted down substantially. These LSD's are clutch-type so even if those tabs all come off, the LSD will still partially work simply from fluid passing over the clutch, better than an open diff anyway. The other good thing is that the clutch tabs are nowhere near as hard as the gears, so they probably won't cause a catastrophic failure of the diff. I've put 20,000 miles on the diff since i found those tabs. No problems so far. Can still do two wheel peels.

I just did this in my NB for the second time and i think its the right advice.

The differntial i used Royal Purple 75W90 (i think, double check me on the weight here)
https://www.amazon.com/Royal-Purple-Performance-Synthetic-Automotive/dp/B0007QGT34

For the transmission i finally bit the bullet and put in Ford Motorcraft XT-M5-QS. This shit is made from unicorn tears as far as i know.
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-XT-M5-QS-Synthetic-Transmission/dp/B000NUES82/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484008625&sr=8-1&keywords=ford+motorcraft+xt-m5-qs


Do 1 quart of royal purple for the diff, and 2 quarts of ford motorcraft for the tranny.
This stuff is really expensive. You'll spend about $75 for all of it. But i can honestly say this is the smoothest my car has been since i bought it. It's like shifting in a stick of butter.

Also if your tranny oil is super shitty i've heard it can be good to run some cheaper stuff through it first, drive around on it for a month or two, then drain it and put in the good stuff. I've never done a side by side comparison though so i can't say for sure if it's required or not.

Speaking to the AX15, mine refuses to engage properly, especially in the Colorado winters, without be filled with MT-90. I thought I was going to have to do full rebuild, but just that MT-90 made it good enough. 190,000 miles and only other maintenance has been clutch, flywheel, throwout bearing and slave cylinder (all done together).

Invest in this... it kicks the shit out of PB Blaster

http://www.amazon.com/SiliKroil-Penetrating-Solvent-aerosol-SILIKROIL/dp/B0003041WK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406440897&sr=8-1&keywords=sili-kroil

Had notchy T-90 in a 65 Jeep after rebuilding it.

Liqui Moly 2019 MoS2 Anti-Friction Gear Lubricant

https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-2019-Anti-Friction-Lubricant/dp/B00CPL8UPY

Took care of that.

I would recommend this one:

https://www.amazon.com/YAMAHA-Yamalube-Performance-Stroke-LUB-2STRK-S1-04/dp/B07RL91PXV/ref=sr_1_53?keywords=1+gallon+2-stroke&qid=1568665843&s=gateway&sr=8-53

or this:

https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10115-Semi-Synthetic-2-Cycle/dp/B0002KKTWC/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=1+gallon+2-stroke&qid=1568665843&s=gateway&sr=8-6

Is this the stuff? And thank you!

Works like a charm

Awesome, got a specific link or is this it?. Any gears still a pain to get into?(1st/2nd mainly?)

You can buy it on amazon.

Redline gl4, the "I give a fuck about this transmission enough to spend $60 on it."

or stalube cheapo for the "whatever, it's GOOD ENOUGH"

I've used both and the transmissions keep on truckin'

Hard to beat the price and shipping of Amazon IMO.

• $11 OEM Oil filter
  
• $11 OEM MTF
  
• $11 75/90 Diff FYI. There is no OEM diff fluid.
  
• $8 A pump
  
• $13 OEM Grease for your shifter

Yeah, the stuff I found on amazon says its race spec but it's just $20.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004LEWIBA/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?ie=UTF8&smid=A2IS69AN9A0OWP

OEM fluids... any name brand that meets the specs should work just fine.

Toyota Genuine Fluid 08885-02506 Differential Gear Oil LT - 1 Liter Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SL9HP6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8amxCbABKXRQ8

The inside finish of a mil-spec extension tube is a dry film lubricant. I wouldn't worry about it and just put some lubricant on it, but if you want to fix it, get a can of CRC 03044 Dry PTFE Spray and re-coat that portion of the tube.

Yea most just stock gl-5 fluid so they use that. Gl-5 was created for differential use so it is much slippier. Slippier is not good for your synchros since they need to be able to grab.

My old 2006 m/t corolla had same issue. Manual even said you could use gl-4 or gl-5. Swapped to gl-4 and buttery smooth shifting.

Heres a DIY


And some manual trans fluid

Avoid stuff that says TCW-3. JASO-FD is a good place to start.

I bought several of these bottles and fill them up to keep in my trunk. Pour one in with each fill-up.
http://www.specialtybottle.com/aluminum-bottles/brushed/8oz-alum8

I've been using Idemitsu but I'll be switching to this after I finish the last of it.
Lucas Oil 10115 Semi-Synthetic 2-Cycle Oil - 1 Gallon Jug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KKTWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_iq-Fzb2EFVB5K

I have the 6 speed and the torsion LSD.

I'm looking at doing my transmission lube and rear differential. I'm looking at
Red Line (50304) MT-90 75W-90 GL-4 for the transmission and
Red Line 57904 (75W90) GL-5 for the differential.

Would this work ok or should I just go with the GL-5 all around? Also am I correct that the transmission takes 2 quarts and the differential takes 1?

Oh you have to use gear lube: https://www.amazon.com/Quicksilver-858064Q01-Performance-MerCruiser-Sterndrives/dp/B006JIA1DI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=gear+lube&qid=1564183658&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Deleted...didn't see that it was too small.

Have you tried this kit?

As someone who has fixed up a fair few bikes from the dump, out of skips etc, many people think rust like that matters way more than it actually does, it's often just a case of putting some lube on the chain and riding it round the block a few times to free it up and it's riding totally fine, the rust is usually just cosmetic. What matters is the how stretched the chain is and the shape of the teeth on the cogs, rust has to be seriously bad before it affects that.

Get some proper bike lube if you don't have any, 'wet' type, this is good - I would not recommend using WD40.

If you wanted you could give the chain and cogs a going over with a stiff wire brush before lubing, do this outside or wear a dust mask.

If you had the tools you could remove the chain and cassette and soak them in white vinegar or citric acid solution overnight and completely dissolve the rust, but I wouldn't consider it if you don't have the tools already.

If this doesn't work, or it turns out the chain is stretched or the cogs are worn in shape then look at new parts but I'd try this out first. You need chain lube anyway whatever happens.

That is extremely poor advice. All lubricants breakdown over time, and should be changed out with fresh fluids. This probably come from people putting the wrong fluid in. You need to replace it with GL-4 gear oil. Most gear oils you'll find at local auto shops is GL-5 and not safe for the syncros. If you need to change it, get some MT-90 from Amazon. You'll need to buy 4qts. Also, a pump will help out a lot.

I usually only see clear, blue, or black in stores but an amazon search shows you can get pretty much any of them online, I haven't used it myself but I suspect it is the permatex rtv for gear oil (appears to be green).

The radiator stop leak could be it though too. Some of the pictures about nightmares of stop leak make it look fairly similar. I can't find anything where someone was dumb enough to put it in the engine oil though.

Your flywheel is going to be fucked from driving so long with a slipping clutch. Shame on you OP for driving that long like that. You should replace that shit when it starts slipping to avoid damage. Your bell-housing is probably dinged up on the inside too. You're gonna want to drain the trans oil and inspect it for metal flake and then when you replace it (assuming there's no metal) you should probably go with Red Line MT-90.