(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best hand & arm protection products

A strop is only for honing (the final step to achieving a razor-sharp edge), while a whetstone could be used for anything from shaping the initial bevel to honing, depending on the grit.

If you do buy some Flexcut knives, which I highly recommend, you will probably only need a strop if you properly maintain them. In fact, they recommend you never use a whetstone and only opt for a Powerstrop if you neglect them for too long.

Many sites will recommend you buy tools one by one so you can get what you need, but as another beginner, I was extremely happy I purchased the Flexcut Deluxe Set. It was probably one more knife and one more palm tool than I needed, but it helped me understand what was out there and how to use them. A good, cheaper alternative might be this set.

No matter what you buy, one of the most important things to do from both a safety and usability (and enjoyment!) factor is to keep your tools as sharp as possible. That way it requires less force to move the tool through the wood, which is a common injury mechanism, and it makes it easier to create fun things. For the weird angles with V and gouge tools, I use another Flexcut invention. It works okay, but you can get the same results with folded sandpaper or other methods. I also bought a fullsize knife strop because it really does make a difference and you can get some with a lot more surface area. I haven't needed to buy a whetstone yet.

Also, I've since supplemented my starter set with Dockyard tools, which also come very sharp and keep their edge well. So far I've only used their micro tools, but I understand they have decent sets as well.

Speaking from unfortunate experience, you should definitely pick up a pair of kevlar gloves. I had a pretty serious hand injury (partially severed tendon) because I was just doing some touchups and wasn't using my gloves and got a bit sloppy. It only takes one single wrong stroke, and I had gotten complacent since I'd been so careful in the past. The gloves let me be more reckless and have definitely saved me from cuts, although they wouldn't protect against a stabbing cut. Thumb guards are also popular, but I don't actually like them very much. The gloves are nice because you can get a great grip on the tools.

When you have a knife or a set, you'll need some wood to practice on. I found ebay to be a great resource...just search for "basswood" and pick a few different sizes. 2x2x6 seems to be a good starting point to me. Make sure it is kiln-dried as well. Here is a good assortment that is pretty cheap. Butternut is another good choice, but for a beginner, I'd stick with basswood from personal experience.

Finally, if you are wanting a good book to introduce you to the subject, I'd recommend the Complete Book of Woodcarving. I've bought a number of books on the subject, but it is definitely the best if you are only buying one and need an overview to the entire craft. Old Time Whittling is only 30 pages, but gave some great examples and was very useful to me as well.

Hey man, I know what it's like to make videos and get knocked on. I'm actually an 11 year manufacturing engineer who's poured molten metal on an industrial level, hundreds of thousands of pounds worth. I've Programmed and ran CNC machines, cut metals, drill welding, worked with water tools, abrasive tools, etc.

I've been trained by my grandfather who's been pouring metal since the 50's and my father who's been doing it since the 70's. Along with another half dozen men who all have a minimum of 20 years experience in industrial manufacturing. I'm going to give you some practical advice on how you could drastically improve your safety.

 

• I saw your DIY foundry once, you used cement in the slurry mix. I hope to god you aren't leaving that thing outside. Actually I hope you never use that furnace ever again. Good move using the aquarium stuff but cement is literally the worst thing you can use for anything with a flame on it. Cement is porous, it will absorb moister. If that thing ever absorbs enough and you fire it up, it WILL explode. If you are lucky it will just crack and i know you'll probably reply, "well I've been using it for ....". Ok, that's fine but what my father taught me the first time i stepped foot in our shop, "Dzuari, all it takes to kill you IS once." Don't ever fuck with mother nature or machines, you will always lose.
  
  If you are still using that furnace, please throw it out and remake it so my grandfather can stop rolling in his grave. Use one of these materials;
  
  Fine Kiln dried lapis sand
  
  Silica Sand 6lbs
  
  2200deg Rutland castable cement Fire Clay
  
  25lbs Rutland castable cement
  
  Kaowool Insulation Blanket
  
  Your best bet is to use silica sand but it's typically more expensive, however it will last the longest. The refractory is really where the durability is. I'd experiment with different types, you could even try adding in fiberglass reinforcement which may increase durability. Oh and here is a K-type thermometer. You can buy some thermocouple leads and figure out the math to accurately measure your burn temperatures so you don't over oxides your metals.
  
  And honestly, if it was me, I'd remove that video and remake it. Someone will watch that video, go out and buy cement and one day it will explode on them. That's an extremely dangerous way to make a furnace.
  
   
  
  
• Electricity and water. You can easily make your videos a whole lot safer just by distancing your water source from the electrical components with something like this for your Dremel. Pretty much apply this methodology to anything that involves electricity and water. The farther your motor and 120v input is to the water source, the better. You can make a quick plexiglass cover to help seperate it, make an extension shaft so the cutting wheel is further distanced and always wear heavy duty, insulated rubber gloves.. Hell you could even make your own retrofit abrasive water cutter with simple motor and pulley system. Matthais Wandel has a great belt sander build that wouldn't be hard at all to make your own water/abrasive wheel setup.
  
  The way you set up that cuttoff wheel.... smh. Please don't do that. Also I'm sure you already read the comments but there are times when to wear gloves and when not to wear gloves. You need to use a vice or clamp any time you can if it means avoiding using gloves when using a high-speed cutter of any kind. Especially if it's a wheel. Again, it only takes once.
  
   
  
  
• General safety. You should really read every single MSDS sheet you get on anything you buy retail or salvage. I've seen you light stuff on fire with zero respiration protection or use things that should have been done on a downdraft table or you were wearing improper clothing. Some of the stuff you work with can really fuck you up and you blatantly did not know of it's harmfulness or willfully disregarded it.
  
   
  
  Overall man I like your videos but in my opinion of everyone DIY'er i watch on youtube, you are hands down the lease safe. I usually spot something you did wrong in every video you post. Whether you feel responsible for your viewers and what they do with the information you give them, is up to you. I just figured I'd give you some pragmatic advice from someone who does this stuff for a living. I actually did a few youtube videos about 6 years ago on my Channel over industrial level green sand. I'm planning on quitting my job within the next mont or two to start my own workshop/foundry/DIY/Youtube/website marketing thing from scratch. Let me know if you have any questions and I'll gladly answer them.
  
  Here's some random tips;
  
  
  Don't use pop can metal for anything structural. It's 3000's series aluminum and it's mades specifically to be malleable. Good rule of thumb for scrap metal is, if it came from something cheap, the metals cheap. The highest quality aluminum you can get for CASTING is automotive parts. Typically made from A356-T6, very good aluminum. I see a lot of guys metal down "Aircraft" or "Aerospace grade" aluminum for casting thinking it's going to be strong. It will not be, 6000 or 7000 series aluminum is all wrought/worked aluminum. It gets it's strength from massive presses that squeeze the metal into shape. Once you heat it up it looses all that strength.
  
  T6 heat treat is the most common treat process for aluminum. If you are making something structural, heat treatment will greatly increase it's strength. But you have to use the correct aluminum for or it can't be treated (Automotive parts/A356). The process is usually 8hrs at 800-1000F then either a quench/2hrs at 300F or age hardening. With that K type thermometer you can easily set up your furnace to heat treat. Also, most aluminum age hardens once poured, usually around 21 days.
  
  Please never wear shorts ever again when working with molten metal. It's not that it will burn your leg. It's that it will hit your leg, then fall into you shoe. Then you have a burning foot and a ladle of molten metal in your hand. I've done this with high top boots and jeans on. My father would fire my on the spot if he ever saw me pouring with shorts on. I saw a guy poure about 2lbs of aluminum into his boot once. 6 years later his still on disability. Please don't ever do it again.
  
  
  Random informational videos
  
  Metallugical nature of Aluminum and crystalizing structures
  
  Grain Structure of Metal
  
  Cold work vs Hot work metal. E.I. this is wrought metal like 3000, 6000 & 7000 series aluminum
  
  Cermaic Material for Furnace Insulation
  

Buy a pack of cheap gloves and you can make them last all season. Go into a place like IRL in PG and there will be some hanging on a rack, and if you just buy the box/bag of them you'll be set all season+ be able to sell some to folks mid season. Or get some online or another work-wear dealer, Marks or Home Depot might, but they usually get their $$ by selling them for 3-4 per glove.

• Newly washed pair every day, after the day of work put them with laundry. Also remember: when buying gloves some types don't wash well, and will fall apart faster - such as the ones that look shiny on the "dipped rubberized" part. or especially the wooly types. All of them likely have that rubberized look, but the shiny surface ones wear out much much faster, it flakes and then peels off while the more dull black is more a part of the fabric and tends to stick to the lycra type fabric. In the end they all wear out, it's just a matter of helping it to not wear out as quickly as it would with just whatever glove you find and shoving your hand in dirty ones.
  
  
• Use ducttape on your fingers kind of like people wrap them when they go gloveless, though this is in order to save the knuckles & fingertips of your gloves. It makes your fingers less damaged from rocks and thorns as well too. Not all of them, just the 2-3 fingers on your tree hand & the thumb. Think about guarding the glove & your knuckles with the tape like with one thin long strand just the width of your middle-finger going from the top of your hand ---> up your finger and around the tip of your finger ---> finishing on the inside of your finger near your palm. Then wrap two or three little bands around the finger to hold it in place. You'll figure it out.
  
  
• Some days on rockier days I tape down the tips of my fingers inside the gloves for more padding since it's your fingernails grinding on the grit in the gloves against rocks which poke out the end of the gloves. We've all gone through a single pair of gloves in a day - having a roll of ducttape and a few strips of tape per day saves gloves through entire seasons, especially when you factor in flipping gloves over & scrounging them during the season and having a rotation of 5 or so through the laundry.
  
  Then at the end of the day I take the tape off. I've accidentally had it run through the wash before and it usually melts into the glove slightly and makes it tough to get all the grit out. It's a bit of a chore, but it beats jamming your nail on a rock and having your glove split at 9AM and your backup fail an hour later. This way you save your gloves lots of wear and tear.
  
  I like wearing a padded glove for the shovel hand some days, or one thicker for wet and cold days. Cutting out finger-holes in the end of a wool sock can make a nice arm warmer & also sort of protects vs devils club and retains some nice residual head in the shovel arm. For the tree-hand I like to use thinner nitrile gloves but guarding them from wear like described above. During the day I never take off my tree-hand glove since it's taped up, and use my right hand for food. And since the tree-hand will be more damp from going in the ground it makes sense to sometimes wear some different style on the shovel hand.
  
  As for pants there's a few useful types
  
  
• lighter coolmax ones with quick-dry fabric, maybe with zipoff pant legs
  
• thick ones like restaurant pants or mail-carrier ones - water repellent/anti-thorn-penetrable
  
  I prefer just tights/shorts/gaiters for most days, though in the hot summer the light quick-dry ones are good to keep your legs cool, and some people really enjoy having a stout pair of denim or somesuch - I just find thicker fabrics to make me sweat too much. On crazy devils-club blocks it might be nice to have a thick pair of pants, but other than that I have come to like the simplicity and comfort of tights/courtesy shorts.

I love projects like this. Your furnishings feel much more your own, and they take on a sense of permanence you can't get with big box furnishings.

A heat gun and putty knives work very well to remove the stickers. Use a low setting, don't keep the heat focused on one area for too long and keep an eye out for browning, singeing, smoking, and fire. You've got lots of space to work with so skip around to allow the wood to cool. You'll potentially be removing whatever finish is on the couch if you are too heavy handed and or use too much heat. If you plan on refinishing use the heat gun and putty knife to remove the finish.

You can try just scraping with a razor blade to remove most of the stickers and then saturating the area with full strength degreaser, such as D-Limonene.covering the area with a paper towel to keep the degreaser in place.

A couple of razor tools to consider: 4" wide short handled for large areas with thick layers of stickers. Smaller razor scrapers with metal and plastic blades. Plastic detail scrapers might be useful too.

Instead of using Goo Gone I like pure D-Limonene solution. It's a potent degreaser extracted from citrus peels and contains no petroleum distillates, unlike Goo Gone. It also comes in food safe solution - though to be safe for digestion it really does need to be quite dilute.

Use the putty knife and rags or gauze to clean the adhesive from the wood. Large Woven Gauze Sponges are more scratchy and will give more traction with absorption. Rolled Stretch Gauze Bandages have the same great absorbing properties but they're softer and great for detail work. You'll get to know what you prefer - I'm partial to gauze sponges. They're cheap and I just toss them into the compost bin as long as they aren't too bummed up with adhesive top.


To remove the degreaser dish soap and rubbing alcohol work well. I like Dr Bronner's castile soap diluted for dishwashing. Wipe down with 90% Isopropyl Alcohol. You should be good to move on to your next step, probably sanding and smoothing, patching any holes or gouges to prep for staining and finishing or painting.

I linked a whole bunch of products to give you an idea of what will work for certain applications. There are definitely other ways to achieve the same goals, this is just how I tackle this task. Please don't order everything listed here at once, see what works from you. I link Amazon because they have everything but locally owned small businesses are an invaluable resource and great when you get stuck in a project.

Don't forget your PPE'S!

Dust Mask - I like this one as you can vacuum the filters out to extend the life and reduce waste. It has a smaller profile too - my husband actually doesn't complain about wearing it, just puts it on.

N95 Respirator
Replacement filters available on Amazon

Comfortable Safety Glasses or Goggles

Heat Resistant Gloves

Long Cuff Gloves Disposable

Some type of work gloves

Good luck!

Well that kind of defeats the purpose of gloves. But it really depends on what your father does with them on.

There are some important questions you should ask like how important is dexterity? If it is a must then I would recommend the cheap latex coated cotton ones basically any brand is fine. If it is chopping wood/ using tools then Buckskin is soft on the hands. If he is working in dirt then you want a tight grain leather with good stitching and a velcro wrist cuff (dirt in your glove sucks) If he is working in the cold then elkskin gloves are a must (they have better insulation but can make your hands sweat in summer). Goat gloves are good for hanging barb wire but can be rough on the hands after a long day. If he is working in wet conditions then you don't want leather at all instead go for a synthetic. If he is using them in really messy or compromising situations just get the cheapest cotton you can throw away after. And on top of that everyone has a preference for fit I personally like mine tight with a wrist strap but I know many guys who like them loose so make sure to get the right size.

Stay away from anything gimmicky. If it has gel pads, knuckle guards, or plastic armor leave it alone. So it all depends on what he does with them. Personally I would recommend leather over synthetic in my experience the stitching lasts better for whatever reason but if you do go synthetic I would recommend Ironclad. Brands aren't as important in gloves just don't get the cheapest or the most expensive and you should be ok. If you can get a ranch type one the best gloves I ever had were from a local source.

Sorry this is a kind of shitty answer but as someone who has heavily used gloves for over a decade in all sorts of conditions and purposes it really depends. If you want a good all rounder I would go latex or elkskin. Besides get him a few pairs and he can put one in the car and I promise he will use them at some point and be thankful they were there. Toss in some smartwool/darn tough socks and he will appreciate the gift immensely.

Jojoba nail oil pens are so, so good for your nails and and cuticles and super convenient to use. I keep them everywhere and use them several times a day. Jojoba is better than all other plant based oils because its molecular structure is basically the same as our natural body oils. Bliss Kiss is a highly recommended brand that I’ve used and like, but I make my own at home now.

Beeswax has some of the same benefits of jojoba, so when you’re looking for balms and thicker creams, beeswax is a promising ingredient.

Instead of using lotion after you wash your hands, think about using a body butter of some sort. They’ll last longer. This is a good article about the difference between butters, creams, and lotions. And remember that moisturizers work best if applied to slightly damp skin.

Also, you’ll get better deep moisturizing at night with your aquaphor if you throw on some light cotton gloves to sleep in after slathering it on really thick. (I like these. I do have kind of big hands though.)

Mechanix gloves, they are proper decent.

These are quality gloves which are great for police work. They provide a good amount of protection, the palms are made out of a tough synthetic leather material, this will protect your hands from getting cut up from any debris or assorted detritus you may encounter during your duties. The other benefit of this material is you can use a touch screen with it. It is also quite water resistant, unlike woolly gloves. The back of the hand is made out of a fabric material, which is very breathable in summer. On some models there is a velcro strap for them, on others there is just some elastic (personally I have the elastic ones as they are easier to get on and off). There is also a Velcro loop to help you get them on and off. They are very dexitile and easy to manipulate, unlike leather gloves. Meaning you can get your kit out easier, work zips and even do a quick initial search. They also pack away quite easily, unlike bulky leather gloves, meaning you can keep them in your tacvest or a pocket. They are quite warm in winter, but if your hands get cold just slip on a merino wool liner underneath and it will keep you warm. They do a range of models, all of which are good and fairly cheap.

Mechanix Fast Fit gloves - I like these ones. Very cheap at £13. They are the ones you can slip on and off. These are the ones I use for work.

Mechanix Original - Same as the fastfit ones, but with velcro and more expensive. The velcro can be a failure point though.

Mechaniz M-PACT - More expensive, but has extra knuckle and finger guards. Also more tacticool if that's your thing.

Sealkskinz - These are very warm glove liners. Merino wool is a lovely material, which is soft and not itch, it also wicks well and keeps you warm when wet. Wear these underneath in deepest darkest winter, they will keep you warm. Also Sealskinz is a good brand for thermals or woolly hats/gloves.

As always, when starting carving I always recommend getting a pair of cut gloves. They are less than $10 and even if you only wear one on the hand holding the wood, they can save you from some serious cuts.

Especially when first learning. If you’re trying to get through a knot, the grain takes the blade in an unexpected direction, or for whatever reason the blade slips.

They aren’t perfect, you can still stab directly into them, but it lessens the depth. But they will protect you from slices. Mine have paid for themselves at least three times through not having to visit the doctor for stitches.

Also, whatever knife you get, make sure it locks (if folding). The best way to cut the hand holding the knife is to have it fold closed on you.

You do not need to spend a lot of money, a local restaurant supply store will is ideal for most everything from knives to turners, tongs, bottles, containers and anything else you can think of. I prefer plastic handles as they are easier to keep clean, and do not degrade.

For thermometers and digital probes, i prefer thermoworks. I use the smoke and instapen, but you can go with a thermopop if you want to save money. Tried other brands, they always end up having issues after a year or two. digital probes will go bad if left in water or the dish washer always hand clean them and keep them dry.

Gloves: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00547HD0O?aaxitk=-OsIXMdbU5xm990c49xMVw&pd_rd_i=B00547HD0O&pf_rd_p=9420597b-7dad-4cbd-a28d-7d676ac67378&hsa_cr_id=6490199610301&sb-ci-n=productDescription&sb-ci-v=Lincoln%20Electric%20Traditional%20MIG%2FStick%20Welding%20Gloves%20%7C%2014%22%20Lined%20Leather%20%7C%20Kevlar%20Stitching%20%7C%20K2979-ALL

Turner/scraper/chopper Kit, better then a bbq set: https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Griddle-Spatula-Set-Accessories/dp/B072MXWDD6?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_15251668011

Tongs: https://www.amazon.com/Weber-6610-Original-Tongs/dp/B005LR0EX0/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=weber+16+tongs&qid=1563625923&s=gateway&sr=8-1

general use pans, drip pans: https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Aluminum-Foil-Steam-Table/dp/B01MSM1A9S/ref=sr_1_3?crid=35NPTHWHGZNHX&keywords=disposable+aluminum+foil+pans&qid=1563626111&s=gateway&sprefix=disposable+alum%2Caps%2C185&sr=8-3

Basting Brush, small and large: https://www.amazon.com/OXO-Grips-Silicone-Basting-Pastry/dp/B000JPSI8C/ref=sr_1_5?gclid=CjwKCAjw98rpBRAuEiwALmo-yud7UIxolmtKdRasRuEKzcyOrRiShPTVMisacAeErYWSmVHvxH30qBoC9ikQAvD_BwE&hvadid=153655172136&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9030030&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=16058826801725890434&hvtargid=kwd-2007025443&hydadcr=13935_9329092&keywords=nylon+basting+brush&qid=1563626490&s=gateway&sr=8-5

I thought you could get away with a simple thin layer one. When I was really little my parents were at the airport and we needed out car jumped. It is fuzzy but this guy was using normal rubber gloves. Let me google it.

So according to people on this DIY stack exchange you are suppost to use really heavy gloves for anything electric. Some guy went as far as say most electricians don't have any and they aren't really sold to the average joe but I managed to find this Amazon listing of some ones rated to 12kV for $17. Apparently the really do stink of weird odour but most people believe that they will not kill you. I also found a few others, these, this, and theseisisies my fine sir which look the best. So.. you can get proper gloves but that guy working on the car was an idiot. Well.. I mean car battery are what 24v? And usually you don't get harmed without them for jumping but still. I'll probably some day open one up, try not to touch anything and pray I live. It'll probably just be something like sleeving [is that how you sleeve?] or like stuff. I actually have a friend who's dad is an electrician maybe I could ask him if he knows if his dad has any electrical gloves.

heck yeah! i use these bad boys! As much as I love my aquariums, I find the idea of sticking my naked hand into an established tank to be super icky. haha

Metal slivers care not for calluses.

Plus, rough hands are great for the palm side but calluses dont really form on the top side. Gloves are a smart move.

I've been working on cars for a quarter of a century. Callused hands are a boon but not a substitute for work gloves or a good pair of mechanics gloves Particularly useful for preventing banging a knuckle in cold weather. Ouch.

Check YouTube for some StrongFirst or RKC swing videos. Karen Smith has some great instructional videos.

Hinge, do not squat. Look at your hips in the video. Your hips are dropping down, your knees are bending and traveling out over your toes. What you should be seeing is:

1. setup with the bell out in front of you. You should be looking straight down on the handle once you bend over (also a hinge). Your arms should actually be angled from your head/shoulders a few degrees towards the top of your head, not straight down, when you grip the bell. Grip the floor/ground with your toes. From here, use your lats to pull the bell towards your hips, hiking it up to your butt like an American football. This should load up your hamstrings for the hip snap. One movement, not two small swings.
   
   
2. Once the bell has reached it rearward most motion, it's time to snap the hips into your forearms. You want to mimic the vertical jump motion. This is all in the glutes and hamstrings. Contract them hard and forcefully. This will put the bell into it's forward/upward motion.
   
   
3. The bell will swing up and out on its own. Keep your shoulders in their sockets.
   
   
4. Your arms do not lift the bell - they are just ropes, straps or whatever that attach the bell to your body. This is all hips, but your back will get some work. Don not shrug up with your shoulders or use your arms to lift the bell. If you think you might be using your arms, loop a towel through the handle of the bell and swing the bell gripping the towel. If your arms do not stay in alignment with the towel throughout the swing, you're doing something wrong.
   
   
5. The hip snap should end with you standing upright. The bell should come to the top and float for a short bit before beginning the downswing. Be sure to squeeze your glutes hard at the top of the swing. Try to cramp them. This protects your lower back. Do not lean back. Your body should form a vertical straight line and your arms should also form a straight line with the bell at somewhere between waist to shoulder height. I prefer my swings to come up chest high at a minimum.
   
   
6. You can either passively allow the bell to come down, or, for a bit more of a challenge, you can use your lats and abs to pull the bell down. Stay upright until the bell is almost straight down. Your wrists/forearms should be just brushing your groin when you punch the hips back (pretend there is a heavy bag behind you and you are trying to punch it) and allow the bell to continue back to the hike position. Keep your eyes forward - do not look back between your legs.
   
   
7. Once you get this, you'll see in your next video that your hips will be moving back and forth as opposed to up and down. Your knees will bend only to accommodate your hip punch (back) and snap. Your shins should remain nearly vertical throughout the movement.
   
   Personally, I would ditch the gloves as well. However, if your work requires a lack of callouses on your hands, I understand. You might want to try these. They are not as thick and give you a much better feel for the bell while still offering grip and protection.

The best pair of gloves I've found are surprisingly affordable; link below. I wouldn't call them cold weather gloves, though :/ I think it's hard to reconcile the dexterity expected from mechanic gloves while still getting the insulation needed for a lot of exposure.

I wear these down to about forty degrees and they're great. Bonus that they wash with the rest of my clothes with no issue.

Once snow starts to fall, though, I usually switch to something a bit thicker - a decent pair of smart wool gloves are good to keep in your pack; just make sure to put them on before you go outside, as they insulate based on temperature when they're put on - a thin liner underneath is a good idea.

Even smart wool fails once you get down to 10 F or lower, though, ime. Need to look into something really insulated at that point, and it just doesn't provide enough warmth to get the job done. My thoughts are that something like custom made welding gloves might be the answer, but I haven't pulled the trigger yet.

I've been looking for something like this for a long time and haven't had much success :( good luck, and post here if you do!

https://www.amazon.com/Hardy-Synthetic-Leather-Spandex-Mechanics/dp/B0178GIYXI

I'd recommend a glove called Atlas Therma Fit. You can sometimes find them locally at hardware stores, not Walmart, in their gardening glove section. They're on Amazon too. They provide the best balance of warmth and grip while still being able to feel buttons on a Telxon. Also make sure your head and ears are covered by a hoodie or beanie and move around a lot! If you're standing around not working up body heat you'll get cold quickly no matter what you wear.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0048WR7J8 here's the gloves on Amazon. Check out the reviews.

If it's not super cold out, I like Atlas therma fit work gloves. Good balance of dexterity+warmth. The rubber coated fingers and palms makes them sort of waterproof and great for gripping stuff. Cheap too, which is a good thing since the rubber wears down with lots of use.

http://www.amazon.com/Atlas-AG451L-Therma-Fit-Gloves-Large/dp/B0048WR7J8

Wow! THANK YOU!

I just got a BVM, but this will be good for when it comes time to fix up the ol' PVM.

edit: posted this in another reply, but if anyone's qualified to comment (eg an actual electrician/TV repair person), will these two items prevent getting electrocuted while tweaking a CRT like this?

https://smile.amazon.com/Electricians-Insulation-Screwdriver-Phillips-Insulated/dp/B01LWWEIL9/

https://smile.amazon.com/Insulating-Gloves-Rubber-Electrical-Protective/dp/B00V4SU2DW

You want a Nitrile glove they are impervious to Diesel as well as other chemicals.

The standard are the exam Gloves which are good for fine work. But they also make Gloves dipped/coated in Nitrile.

If you want full protection something like these.

https://www.amazon.com/Atlas-Glove-WG772M-26-Inch-Nitrile/dp/B001PBEJ00

These gloves are full dipped and a PVC cuff instead of a cotton cuff or being only palm dipped so they offer full protection for just hands.

https://www.airgas.com/product/Safety-Products/Gloves/Coated-Work-Gloves/p/MEG9786S

The thing is that they are not going to be really durable like leather gloves.

Ifg you just want palm coverage there are several cotton gloves with nitrile not coating everything.

You might also check out these.

http://www.superiorglove.com/work-gloves/leather-gloves/oil-resistant-leather-gloves

http://www.superiorglove.com/work-gloves/chemical-resistant-gloves

Glove liners like these + Nitrile gloves = better dexterity than silicone gloves, easier to clean than knit heat-proof gloves, waterproof with the nitrile liner, and will let you handle pretty much any temperature meat.

Cut Gloves can be pretty affordable to have on hand for people doing prep or dishwashers that don't have a lot of knife experience. Way cheaper to have these "on hand" than a hospital bill or L&I costs

​

These are my favorite gloves, (they come in sizes and fit women!) but she might have her own favorites, and they probably wouldn't be so good if she's in a warmer climate.

I also just got one of these and it's everything I thought it could be.

Kinko work gloves are great for a variety of conditions. If you rub some snoseal on them, they are great in snow. Only $15

• https://www.amazon.com/KINCO-1927KW-S-Pigskin-Gloves-Lining/dp/B01AT3QP9M
  
  Or you could get fancy with Hestra or Outdoor Research gloves...
  
  
• https://hestragloves.com/sport/en-us/gloves/outdoor/
  
• https://www.outdoorresearch.com/us/gloves

Hardy mechanics gloves. https://www.amazon.com/Hardy-Synthetic-Leather-Spandex-Mechanics/dp/B0178GIYXI/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1549997810&sr=8-9&keywords=hardy+gloves

I've tried various fitted leather, baseball, etc gloves, and haven't been a fan of them. These have a bit of padding for the fingers, are cheap, fit me well enough, and are easy to get the sparring gloves on and off of.

How heavy duty? I use these at work. They wear like iron and they give me great dexterity. I've worn them 30 hrs+ a week for 6 months in the nastiest weather. They get a little loose when wet, and take a minute to soften up after they've dried.

Sorry if you're a guy, this model is women's, but they'll fit a small-ish man's hand (a couple of guys at my work have tried them on and they've fit) and the company makes tons of mens work gloves too.

I use this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZ8K4M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for $10. I don't think you can use them for bbq. I love how long these are as I can pretty much squeeze a 16lb bag of hot grains without burning my forearms.

Nothing short of laser treatment or removing several layers of skin will make a tattoo "wear out". Exposing a fresh tattoo to aquarium water all day is a great way to get an infection though. Get some shoulder length gloves like these before sticking your arm in the tank.

Ninja ice gloves off amazon. $8 a pair so you can get multiples for cheap to swap out during a long day. Super dextrous and warm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00487656E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_m0pMybHTBVDXX

The full leather ones are pretty warm. I have a pair of the gloves and mittens. I haven't had a day where I needed anything warmer. I wear the cloth-back ones the majority of the time though.

Though I'm not sure how available they are in Europe.

Get some insulated leather gloves/mitts and coat them with SnoSeal.

Kinco makes good ones that are really cheap. Flylow makes a similar style that comes pre-coated. I have a pair of BlackDiamond spark gloves I got on sale.

Just know that whatever brand you get you'll eventually have to reseal them with SnoSeal cause it doesn't last forever.

EDIT: Here are some links:

Kinco - https://www.amazon.com/Kinco-Pig-Skin-Glove-Gloves/dp/B01CFWIRIC

Flylow - https://shop.flylowgear.com/collections/mens-gloves

Black Diamond - http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/mens-gloves

SnoSeal - https://www.amazon.com/Atsko-Sno-Seal-Original-Beeswax-Waterproofing-Net-overall/dp/B00CQJDQ90/

Looks super nice and tender.

As for heat I use these bc even if one is ruined, you’ve got 11 more!

Wells Lamont Polyester Work Gloves, String Knit, 12 Pair Pack, Large (513LZ) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00622Z2G2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BUVYDb3XEVVMD

These gloves are, imo, the best quality available on Amazon.

I you want to have even more fun, you could also add:

http://www.amazon.com/MSA-Safety-Works-10041139-Respirator/dp/B000P9CX1A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1422669795&sr=8-2

http://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-Electric-Traditional-Stick-Welding/dp/B00547HD0O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1422669858&sr=8-2

http://www.amazon.com/Studded-Leatherette-Black-Medium-Large/dp/B00CGVFSH6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1422670218&sr=8-3 (nsfw)

http://www.amazon.com/Rubber-Nuke-Boots-over-shoe/dp/B001391PRO/ref=pd_sim_hi_47?ie=UTF8&refRID=1153F8FV1H34KD9MXJC0

If you have a harbor freight near you I would say get a few pairs of these:
https://www.harborfreight.com/cold-weather-work-gloves-large-96606.html

If you don't, you can never go wrong with kincos. They are probably the best known company for making durable work gloves:

https://www.amazon.com/KINCO-Pigskin-Leather-Thermal-Draylon/dp/B01CFWIRIC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1542401405&sr=8-2&keywords=kinco+insulated

I love my fingerless gloves for work, I go back and forth from wiring to metal work. So slicing my hands up is common if they aren't worn. http://smile.amazon.com/Mechanix-Wear-CG-Leather-Framer/dp/B0019KBGC6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453064111&sr=8-1&keywords=framing+gloves

I use Mechanix gloves - favorite is Mechanix Original Covert Large , you just have to keep in mind they're disposable and will break. I also have a pair of leather gardening gloves that I bring along when I'm foraging wood.

For real. One time a girlfriends dad bought me some Firm Grip home depot special gloves ... I don't think I ever used them because I like my Ironclads. These are my jam - http://www.amazon.com/Ironclad-Heavy-Utility-Gloves-HUG-04-L/dp/B00004XOHB

I would recommend anything by Mechanix. I have a pair of the original in high vis that I use on the job and when I bike. I also have a pair of their framer gloves. Personally I prefer framer gloves so I can still have the full dexterity of my bare fingers

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00487656E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mFx1Cb83Y5PWE

And for wet cold conditions

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GTSZDQX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tHx1Cb7SH6NXC

These are super cheap right now, I just ordered some more. They are great gloves but they do wear out.
What term are you?

Already ordered an identical pair. Ironclad KONG SDX2-04-L Original Oil & Gas Safety Impact Gloves. these

Try prying them off first but be prepared for breakage from the start. Just an idea, possibly use some spray glue to attach a plastic tarp to a few pieces at a time. Otherwise you can use tape and square off a couple feet at a time. Then some light taps with a hammer on a nail ought to break it into small workable pieces without causing a huge mess. Use some cut resistant gloves for removing the pieces, preferably into a sturdy cardboard box (the glass should be able to be recycled). Long sleeves, hat, pants, shoes and eye protection as well, and put down some cloth moving tarps, as those will catch and hold tiny glass chips without them bouncing off, and you can throw them out afterwards. Use a lint roller on your clothing to get glass particles out. See if you can get some of those shoe covers so you don't get any glass embedded in the soles.

Generally gloves are unnecessary at a race. If it's cold or the terrain is garbage, then maybe. However, gloves are basically required at HH and HH12HR. I'd recommend Mechanix gloves like these
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanix-Wear-Tactical-Original-Covert/dp/B0001VNZZU

Gentlemen of the bloody callused hand guild, I come in peace and present these gloves. I too was once a bitch-mitten hater, then I discovered the glove that works for me.

They are durable as fuck, they protect from a lot of scraping, help with grip on a greasy wrench, and still allow me to get in there and feel with my finger tips. Give them a shot!

Kinco. Look around the mountain. What are all the MTN. Ops wearing? Kinco.
Treat them well and they'll be with you a long time.

Gloves

Mitts

Nope, highly recommend them though, best gloves I’ve tried link

I just ordered these so I can't attest to their quality but their ratings are fine on Amazon.

thumb guard

gloves

I recently ran across this glove review: "The best metal detecting and relic hunting gloves. Period."

I purchased a pair on Amazon and really like them so far. They also make a Heavy Utility version but I thought they might reduce dexterity, operating buttons, etc.

Costco has good base layers for cheap, I double them up. I think they're called 32 heat or something. My setup goes like this..

-one or two layers of the 32 heat long underwear, depending on temp.
-sweat pants.
-heavy jeans or carhartt pants if you need lots of pockets.
-one or two long sleeve shirts
-a puffy down hoodless jacket or fleece. Like This. Buy one cheaper than this, it might get burned a little.
-A hoodie over it all. I have a carhartt FR so my jacket doesn't get trashed, and a bunch of freebies that I've gotten from companies.

Gloves and feet are the real pain in the ass.

I have a pair of steel toe red wings that I bought a size up and I wear 2 pairs of wool socks.

These are the gloves I wear when I need to do work that requires dexterity, and mitts for everything else. I keep both on me.

I also have a gaiter to cover my ears/neck.

Also, where do I snag a pink hoodie >:(

Getcha pair o kincos , slather some sno-seal on em, and yer dun. Ur welcome.

https://www.amazon.com/Kinco-Pig-Skin-Glove-Gloves/dp/B01CFWIRIC

Mandolins are so good but SO BAD. I deffo should have gone to urgent care for a past mandolin injury.

A friend (who knows what a clumsy cook I am) got me some of those stretchy cut resistant knife gloves as a gift last year.

Now I can make Zuni Café Zucchini pickles with impunity.

You must. If you're one of the types that gets annoyed by bulky gloves. Try a pair of nitrile gloves. They are waterproof, breathable and you can still use your phone. Perfect for wet mornings. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P4PJOVM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mechanix is always a solid choice. These are my favorites and these if you want full finger.

EDIT: Make sure you're authorized to get these types. Unless your command gives no fucks.

Kinco "Ski" gloves. I have like 3 pair. You will want some leather water proofer. Not great in wet weather.

https://www.amazon.com/Kinco-Pig-Skin-Glove-Gloves/dp/B01CFWIRIC

I'd second /u/loansindi, the Dirty Rigger gloves are nice.

I generally have two or three pairs, depending on what exactly I'm doing - different gloves for loading cradles (as steel kills gloves fast), just cheap ones like [these] (https://www.ardmoor.co.uk/wso/images/library/hoggs-canadian-rigger-gloves.jpg?view=976); and then better made, closer fitting ones (like the Dirty Riggers) for actual flying operation.

I also like ones like these for lighter weight work, where I only need minimal protection [I typically wear these when I'm on a call bumping in flight cases, etc]. They're good for stuffing in a pocket (I also tend to cut the fingertips off for better dexterity, but that's a personal choice having assessed the risks specific to my environment).

Dowellife Cut Resistant Gloves Food Grade Level 5 Protection, Safety Kitchen Cuts Gloves for Oyster Shucking, Fish Fillet Processing, Mandolin Slicing, Meat Cutting and Wood Carving, 1 Pair (Large) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XBGR2L9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vVHXDb156PT8W

I ought this pair. They work well.

Mildot Master

Mechanix Gloves

Hearing Protection

Shoot N C Targets

Ammo Box

Gloves with cotton lining.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BZ8K4M/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?qid=1425485591&sr=8-14&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=cleaning+gloves+with+cotton+lining

These are a bit bulky but they are long and get the job done for the wash portion of the job on really cold days.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZ8K4M?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00

Tried everything else before I bought some of these and I haven't looked back.

Here you go. They are 14 bucks here.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001VNZZU/ref=twister_B001ACRWOO?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1#customerReviews

Mechanix Gloves for anyone needing to workout outside in the winter

youch. do yourself a favor... https://www.amazon.com/Dowellife-Resistant-Protection-Shucking-Processing/dp/B06XBGR2L9

https://www.amazon.com/Atlas-Glove-WG772M-26-Inch-Nitrile/dp/B001PBEJ00

http://www.amazon.com/Mechanix-Wear-Tactical-Original-Covert/dp/B0001VNZZU/ref=pd_sim_sbs_200_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=41CfTFgB1hL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1H24SEKPY8X71GJC0MY0 we use these at stars

My dad bought me these because I had so many mishaps in the kitchen for some time

Why not just get the Framer gloves? They come with the thumb, index, and middle as fingerless.

Here ya go:

https://www.amazon.com/Dowellife-Resistant-Protection-Shucking-Processing/dp/B06XBGR2L9/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_79_lp_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GBXDPNDNW275D6CNGFTT

I mean if he 100% does not want to change the habit you can also get him those cut resistant gloves - $8

Not joking
https://www.amazon.com/Kinco-Pig-Skin-Glove-Gloves/dp/B01CFWIRIC

They are hard to manipulate small things with, but for just general siphoning and moving around larger things - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PBEJ00/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 might consider long arm gloves

Just search cut resistant gloves.

Edit: Here you go. I use them when cleaning my knives.